August 5, 2019

Outdoor Dog Booth

Outdoor Dog Booth

Booth and doghouse

The booth and the kennel are actually not quite the same thing; it’s about the dogs natural habit. Scientists are unanimous about the origin of domestic dogs: their ancestor was the ordinary gray wolf (Canis lupus) and its subspecies – the polar wolf, the Melville island wolf, etc. Perhaps the coyote (Canis latrans) and the jackal (Canis aureus) contributed to their share of the gene pool. But the fact that the Australian dingos are completely feral descendants of dogs already domesticated by primitive people is beyond doubt. As well as innocence to the dog lineage of the Tibetan red wolf (buanzu). By the way, buanzu is not a wolf, he is the only representative of another special kind. Like the pampas maned wolf of the guar.

The ancestors of dogs in addition to the constant lair in the warm season arrange temporary lairs for themselves – horse breeches; hence the word doghouse itself. A curious fact: before the thieves "shukher" with "atas" appeared, the ancient predatory call of anxiety was "on equestrians!". Those. dog house is a capital, in terms of the dog, housing, spacious, warm, with a feeding trough or even a flower garden, pos. 1 in Fig., And the kennel – shelter-dwelling mainly in the warm season, pos. 2

Types of dog kennels

Both the booth and the kennel have their own characteristics and varieties. Both depend on the breed, gender, origin of the dog, location of the kennel / kennel on the site and climate of the area. To properly build a dog house with your own hands, you need to be able to take into account all these factors. We first deal with some things of a general plan, then with particulars, including the size of a canine house, and then proceed to construction.

What, where and how?

The dog house should be placed in the shade: dogs sweat a little; their only way to cool off is to breathe heavily, sticking your tongue out. If there is no shady place in terms of the location of the booth (see below), then a canopy should be provided above the entrance (manhole) and a threshold so that the dog does not burn its legs on the hot earth, pos. 3. In the case when the occupant of the small breed booth, the threshold must be wider so that the dog can jump to the ground, completely coming out of the kennel, pos. four; but it is not necessary to do a ramp, it will be inconvenient to lie.

In the room for the bitch, it is necessary to provide for something like a otnorka for a brood, and near the manhole – a stationary feeder with a trough, pos. 5. Then the puppies, first, during feeding will be under the supervision of the mother; secondly, they will scatter food less until they are accustomed to eating carefully.

In areas with heavy rainfall for dogs, the canopy and threshold should form a real veranda, since these breeds of dogs do not tolerate wet hair, pos. 6. Gustopsovymi call rocks with a thick soft fur undergrowth and a soft awn not much longer than the subsharp. Eg, German Shepherd Dogs are pompous.

Note: kinological fur of the dog. It has its own terminology. The muzzle is a gable, the tail is the rule (emphasis on "and"), the muscles are the meat, etc. Remember how Nozdryov in Dead Souls bragged to Chichikov about the “wonderful strength of meats” of his dogs?

A dog house may be a temporary shelter. For example, in the seasonal residence of the owners or if in the summer the dog is transferred to the pen. In this case, besides the usual canvas curtain, see below, the booth should be fitted with a locking door, pos. 7, to avoid littering or unwanted settlers.

Note: if the booth is locked for a long time, then it must be ventilated for 3-4 days before settling the dog. Who likes the smell of dust and mustiness? A dog’s nose is much more sensitive than ours.

Little about mongrels

Quite a few owners prefer home guardians to start petted and independently trained mongrels smarter. This is explained not only by the high price of puppies of service and guard breeds, not to mention a trained licensed dog. It can be compared like this: if a dog that has passed through a proper dogological study is a well-trained professional fighter, then a quick-witted mongrel is a clever and sharp-witted partisan. Criminologists are aware of cases in which a self-educated mongrel took a thief who had previously successfully poisoned or put to sleep trained watchdogs.

Note: the mongrel cleverness sometimes just strikes. For a long time the author was familiar with the petty mongrel mongrel Bucks, which somehow changed to Beshu. Byashka at the request of the hostess brought the left or right sneakers and never made a mistake. Found lost things. Could pull a cigarette out of the pack and serve, but with all the signs of disgust. Nobody ever taught him to execute commands, they talked to him as if they were among themselves, like “Byaška, do not turn around under your feet. Sit somewhere in the corner. Let’s set the table, let’s call. ”

Outdoor Dog Booth

Device kennels for small guard dogs

However, the discipline of the partisans, as you know, is lame more often than in military units. From this it follows that it is not necessary to indulge the watch-keeping mongrel with excess comfort, and then it will be lazy and forget about its duties. It will be enough for the simplest doghouse, pos. eight; compared to the living conditions of homeless fellows, this is already a luxury.

How a kennel is arranged for a dog, as it were, from the street, is shown in fig. Its difference from those considered below is that the width of the manhole is not considered to be the width of the chest Wd (see below), but the width of the sacrum S. This follows from the fact that the smartest of purebred dogs are slender; chest like a mastiff or a boxer they do not happen. The length of the doghouse L in this case is considered not to the root of the tail, but to its middle. The rule of the mongrels never stop, retains all the functionality of wild ancestors and knead it in a kennel is not suitable. In general, the mongrel doghouse is more like a dachshund booth.

Note: however, the mongrel and the mongrel are different, then they are purebred. Therefore, in fig. on the right – a booth for a watch-keeping mongrel, more or less densely folded. The walls are shown double, because in this case, they are warmed for harsh winters.

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A place

The type of kennel that fits the occasion depends on the location of the kennel. It is common knowledge that it should be lightly on the hill to avoid flooding in the rain. As well as the fact that the booth should not be located near the barnyard, poultry house, pigeon house and other premises for pets. No less important is a good overview of the booth, and here you need to look properly. The location of the doghouse in the local area is chosen for the following reasons.

Note: the requirement of removal from the other four-legged and feathered inhabitants of the estate is not at all explained by the fact that the dog will begin to put pressure on the hens-geese; properly trained and moderately fed dog will never go for robbery. The point here is the sensitivity of her sense of smell and hearing. Compare, would you like to live in a second-class car on the spot next to the toilet? For the same reason, the booth should not be placed at the kitchen window, at the black door, in which garbage is taken out, at the garbage dump and near the bath. But on the shore of a fish pond or pool – please, a dog in the heat will only be easier.

The dog must see at least the entrance / entrance to the plot and the front door of the house at the same time; in addition, to be able to stop an unwanted invasion as quickly as possible. In this view, the best place for a booth is at the gate with a wicket, on the left in fig. But here another circumstance takes effect.

Location examples of dog kennels

Houses are usually built with the main entrance to the south or the wind, the gate is located against it. The first is also good for the dog: the kennel door will go north and the sun will not beat the dog in the eye, and the fence will give shade and some coolness on a hot day. However, in the second case, the door of the booth will be more likely to blow out, it will turn out cold, and the roof can be pulled down. Therefore, with this arrangement, the roof of the booth should be made a house, the building itself is warmer, and the entrance is as narrow as the dog’s physique allows.

The second option is the location – at the entrance to the house. In this case, the review will be worse, because the dog will not exactly see the passages to the backyard, but the booth will be in most of the time in winter, and in winter the light reflected from the walls of the house will warm it up a little. Then the roof needs to be made flat, and Laz is wider so that in summer the dog does not overheat and can sleep on the roof, like on a balcony, on the right of fig.

Booth in the aviary

Approximate layout of the booth in the enclosure for dogs

Guard dogs are kept in enclosures when they are not on a leash, but are released overnight or in the absence of owners for patrolling the territory, or in hot weather, when in a booth, especially for thick breeds, it is completely unbearable. Doghouse-aviary – the structure is already quite solid; A good aviary is not simpler than an easy country house and requires a separate description, especially if the aviary is multi-seat and for dogs of different breeds and different sexes. But in any case, an enclosure for a dog should be provided with a shed: for sleeping, in case of bad weather with the wind, for litter and, finally, just to retire if you want.

A dog box in an open-air cage must satisfy all the conditions set forth below, except that, first, it makes no sense to make a more labor-intensive roof in it. Secondly, in the aviary also does not need a booth, "dvushka", see below. And yet, the booth should be placed in the far corner of the fence, and Laz should not look at the gate of the enclosure. The approximate layout of the booth in the aviary is shown in Fig. on right.

How to do?


The dimensions of the dog’s home are tied to the measurement parameters of the animal, see fig :

Measured parameters of dogs

  • L is the length of the body from the tip of the muzzle to the base (root) of the tail.
  • H – full, up to the crown, height.
  • h – height at withers.
  • Wd is the width of the chest.
  • S is the width of the sacrum, sometimes used instead of Wd for dogs of slender build.

If the dog is taken as a puppy, then the size of the booth should be set the same as for an adult. They are taken either in average size for a given breed, or, which is better, by showing the puppy to specialists in some canine organization or service. Local docks will determine how large / small the average it will grow.

In the drawings and descriptions of booths, see below, there are amendments to the size, for example. 10 cm, –5 cm, etc. They need to withstand, because a booth that is too spacious is no better than a cramped one; it will be cold and uncomfortable in it. In general, the depth of the booth is taken equal to L 5 cm, height equal to H, width equal to 3Wd, width of a manhole Wd 5 cm, and its height equal to h. More information about calculating the size of a doghouse can be found in the video:

Video: dog house – dimensions and rules of construction


The dog house layouts are simple, see pic :

Examples of planning dog kennels

  1. Doghouse – can be a fairly large permanent housing for a dog in warm, not very wet and windy edges;
  2. With a rookery (2a), it is almost universal and technologically simple, most often the booths are built;
  3. With a tambour (3a), the nook behind it 3b forms a rookery – suitable for places with a continental climate, frosty winter and hot summer, suitable for a female with puppies;
  4. With a veranda under a canopy 4b and a bedroom-rookery 4a – the same as in claim 3, but for places with high rainfall and strong winds.
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The interchangeability of layouts comes from the top down, i.e. a booth with a veranda and a bedroom is also suitable in all other cases, a booth with a vestibule is for paras. 2 and 1, a rookery booth replaces a kennel.

Tramway and two-room

Recently, lovers and breeders of dogs are increasingly breeding such wonderful breeds as our reindeer (non-riding) husky and its Alaskan colleague husky. The qualities of these dogs are truly exceptional. For example, the well-known Soviet zoologist and ornithologist E.P. Spangenberg, who became famous for having survived more than 15 editions of “Notes of the Naturalist”, chose a dog as a companion for a long expeditionary work together with a dog, sorting through several breeds and likes. His Gaudik helped find the nests of birds that had not previously fallen into the hands of scientists and, moreover, was an unsurpassed hunter and watchman. And while waiting for the field season, while Evgenii Pavlovich was engaged in scientific work and teaching at Moscow State University, he was not a burden in the apartment and even helped with the housework.

With huskies and huskies, one small concern is the booth. They don’t like ordinary people, but they feel good in the tram booths, on the left of rice, and in dvushki, on the right in the same place:

Dog houses “tram” and “dvushka”

Zest, as it turned out, in the sleeping compartment, where the dog can lie down, curled up. This is her favorite pose; in the tundra, in the homeland of these breeds, you will not arrange a forest lair. There is a need for a flat roof – in the summer it will be stuffy for the northerners in the room. Also in the booth, "dvushke" partition is better to make removable for the summer; for this, a pair of fillets for the corners are nailed to the long walls, see below, with a gap giving a groove. Laz in the booth "tram" and "dvushku" it is desirable to do the left, when viewed from the front. Then, suddenly it will be necessary, as they say, to tear the claws, you can begin, as expected, with the right paw.

Note: a curious fact – the same huskies and huskies feel great in kennels from the barrel and in the booths made in the shape of a barrel, see fig. Interestingly, in their tundra what kind of lair would they have made?

Booths for dogs in the form of barrels

Ceiling and roof

The ceiling of the outdoor dog booth, as stated above, must be insulated. Insulation in this case – only the foam; Minwat will pour. The ceiling design is a pie from a sheet of plywood of 8–10 mm in size along the inside, a layer of foam plastic of 20–40 mm in a frame of bars or laths of the same thickness, and on top is another sheet of the same plywood with a set of walls and handles for lifting

If the roof is flat, then the ceiling is hung on the hinges and folded to the left in Figure:

The design of the ceiling and roof booths for dogs

Roof overhangs are formed by the top sheet of plywood and its flooring. To the wind did not open, put a latch or latch. Roof decking (any hard waterproof, preferably equally) is laid directly on the ceiling. Under the roof of the house, the ceiling is made removable, in the center in the figure, and the roof is made with cutouts in the rafter legs on the walls, to the right there.

Note: plywood on the cover sheet must be taken waterproof or double-impregnated with a conventional construction water-polymer emulsion. Then the ceiling for a doglike century is enough.

The method of fixing the roof of the house is well known for a long time: half-thick nails are driven in at the corners of the building, 8-10 mm of nails are being cut, they are cut out of the cap and the cut is rounded off or tapered. In the rafter legs under these pins drill deaf nests. The roof will last much longer if the sleeves are driven from a thin-walled steel tube or rolled out of tin into the nests. Then, to keep the roof in the wind firmly, nails-pins slightly, about a third or half a meter, bend out.


The dog house is built mainly in 3 ways. The capital booth is built as a house, from the base to the roof, with walls erected upwards and trim. The 2nd method is similar to the frame-panel technology: wall panels are hung on a strong timber frame. The third one can be called summer-dacha – a light but strong booth is knocked out of plywood, waterproof or impregnated with water-repellent agent (water-repellent compositions, for example, with the same water-polymer emulsion), and in the winter they are completely covered in a covered veranda or house. There are also original ways of building warm winter booths and kennels, see for example the video: //

About materials

The best material for building a doghouse is a seasoned coniferous timber forest without falling out knots and a glade (i.e., edged). Mowing and crookedness do not matter much, because the load in the construction is small, but the boards and boards need to be taken ridged and punched without cracks: a splinter in the footpad or a torn claw can cost an expensive visit to the vet. Lumber fresh, oozing and smelling of resin are not suitable. High-quality used timber from used buildings dismantled is very well suited, it does not knock down the dog’s scent.

Note: apron curtain, curtain hole in the booth, also need to be made from natural material. It is preferable – the usual tarpaulin, and in no case rubber.


The first method is illustrated in Fig. First, they knock out 40 mm bottom of the boards, and on it – a supporting frame made of timber (40-50) x100, pos. 1. Then they put the corner posts of 100×100 timber on the screws and sheathe the walls outside, pos. 2. Of course, cladding boards need to be put with the tongue of the tongue up and the groove down. At the end of the skin, the openings are cut out and the structure is treated externally with an antiseptic, then with a water repellent (exactly in this order), the platbands (necessarily!) Are stuffed in the corners from the same boards, and they are also treated, pos. 3

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Build a major dog house

The next stage – waterproofing the bottom and the device supports. A sheet of waterproof or impregnated plywood is wrapped on the bottom, wrapped in glassine cloth or its analogue, with a twist inward of at least 15-20 cm. The corners of the waterproofing are not cut, they are folded into folds. By laying an insulating shield, they lay down slings from a bar or put trenches and knock them all together with nails, pos. 4. It is impossible to use self-tapping screws, they will pull and tear isolation! Also, do not drive nails directly into the insulating film. The lugs or trenches, of course, must be hydrophobic in advance.

Now it is the turn of internal insulation and insulation. Inside, the floor and walls are covered with glass mat on small carnations with linings for caps of 2-4 mm plywood or a thin container plank of about 30×30 or 40×40 mm. Often do not nail, if only the film did not slip. It is best to lay the sheet on top, press inside in to get even wrinkles in the corners and nail on the top of the contour. After that, in the bottom frame and on the walls, rails are packed in the thickness of insulation (from 20×20 to 40×40) with a step equal to the width of its mat (plate). Further heat insulation is laid; if minvat is used, then you need to take a long fiber. Also at this stage (pos. 5) a rough floor is laid from a board of twenty or 8-12 mm tare.

Note: at this or the next stage, you need to remember to drive into the ends of the corner posts and handle the nails-holders of the roof, if it is a house.

Then the whole box is insulated from the inside again and sheathed with plywood. You can use a regular, self-impregnated, but in this case only a water-polymer emulsion is suitable for impregnation, and then before installing the ceiling, the building will need to be properly dried, 3-4 days: an imperceptible smell of PVA for us has a dog’s nose. When the booth is trimmed from the inside, small, from ten to twenty, wooden fillets, pos. 6; can use mdf.

Note: if foam was used for thermal insulation of walls, then at this stage the visible gaps need to be replaced, see fig. on the right, otherwise there is a risk that parasites will start.

The penultimate stage is the construction of a removable ceiling, as described above, pos. 7. As for the roof, pos. 8, now it can be any depending on the location of the booth, your taste, skill and availability of materials. For example, as a similar way to build a warm booth with a flat roof, see video:

Video: how to make a warmed dog booth


The construction scheme of the frame booth is shown in fig. First, a frame is assembled from (60-100) -mm timber, the floor is built as in the previous case, and the walls are sheathed with heat-insulated panels on the ceiling. The structure of the panels can be different, from the same as that of the ceiling pie for the capital booth to the size of glass-magnesite plates. But, generally speaking, the frame booth is an option for the lazy and not very savvy. By all indicators, it is inferior to capital, but for a temporary / seasonal too expensive and time consuming.

Device booth for dogs


The dimensions of the plywood booth details for a medium sized guard dog or mongrel are shown in fig. on right. The assembly technology is simple:

Outdoor Dog Booth

Details of a plywood dog box

  • A sheet of 40×40 bars is stuffed onto the bottom sheet and an insulant is inserted into it, inset in fig.
  • Nailed to the bottom frame side walls.
  • In the corners inside stuffed the same bar 40×40.
  • Alternately laying the structure to the side, they put a heater in the frames of the walls and sew them with sheets of plywood; in the facade will have to frame the entrance opening with pieces of the same bar.
  • Nails-holders of the roof are driven into the ends of the corner posts. In this case, because racks are thin, they need to be taken 5-6 mm in diameter and under each drill a guide socket 3-4 mm in diameter and 20-30 mm in depth; if you beat right in the butt, the bar may crack.
  • Make the roof, put on the holders – that’s it.

The question may arise: why in the summer booth insulation? From overheating by the sun. For the same purpose outside the booth, it is desirable to paint in bright colors and put in the shade. Stands – bricks.

Something in passing

In conclusion, we will give some information on a related topic – about keeping a dog in a booth. The first question is bedding. How to fill the mat and pillow? With hay and straw, as it is from time to time, it is undesirable, the parasites will be acquired, and such a dwelling will smell the human nose from a distance by smell. Foam rubber dog will soon tear the claws and gorge on his crumbs, which does not benefit her. Special mats are expensive.

A dog bed is best made from tarpaulin, and stuff cedar sawdust, they are sold specifically for this purpose. They will go on the hygienic backfill of the floor. You can use other coniferous sawdust, but be sure to well dried, 2 weeks at temperatures above 22 degrees. Drying is necessary, scattering a thin layer. And it will be necessary to change a simple coniferous backfill in a week or two, while cedar is enough for a month or more.

The second question is more serious – ticks. Properly constructed and equipped booth will not allow a divorce in itself to parasites, especially if the dog wears a collar against fleas. But from ticks, alas, there is no reliable means of protection, these creatures are viable.

Just ripping a bitten tick, as you probably know, is dangerous to health. Veterinary services are worth the money, and the nearest veterinary aid point can be far away. However, the tick can be removed and independently with a special tool – a twig. Therefore, in conclusion, instead of edification and instruction, we suggest just to watch the video, how to make a tick and how to use it:

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