Snow Blower Carburetor – Device, Adjustment, Flushing

Gasoline snow blowers: types, device, advantages and disadvantages

Snow Blower Carburetor. Device, Adjustment, Flushing

Snow removal in a small area does not require powerful equipment.

By small area we mean:

  • parking area in front of the garage;
  • a path from the house to the gate or garage;
  • house territory;
  • sidewalk near the house.

Such cleaning is easy to carry out with both a conventional and a mechanical shovel. But such devices are suitable only for shallow snow due to the small size of the bucket.

To clean a thick layer of snow in a rather large area, a shovel is indispensable. more serious equipment will be required.

For such work, the acquisition of gasoline snow blowers is relevant. They are used for cleaning large areas, such as:

The device and principle of operation of the carburetor of the snowplow

At first glance, it may seem that the carburetor has a rather complicated design, however, in fact, there is nothing complicated in the device of this unit. The carburetors of most snowplows consist of the following components:

  • Cameras with a float;
  • A float equipped with a locking needle valve;
  • Mixing chamber;
  • Atomizer and diffuser;
  • Air and fuel valves with jets;
  • Throttle valves.

The float connected to the needle valve is responsible for maintaining the necessary amount of fuel in the assembly. As the fuel level decreases, the float lowers, thereby opening the needle valve. At the same time, the required portion of gasoline enters the fuel chamber. As the amount of fuel in the chamber increases, the float rises and closes the needle valve.

From the float chamber, gasoline, through a spray tube, enters the mixing chamber, where it is mixed with air coming from the inlet pipe. The level of fuel available in the float chamber is always slightly lower than the level at which the outlet is located. Due to this, with the engine turned off, gasoline does not leave the float chamber even if the snow blower is on a slope.

Snowblower carb adjustment. when is intervention required?

Often during active operation of the snow blower, failures occur, the carburetor adjustment will help to eliminate them. The fact that it is time to perform this procedure is evidenced by a number of signs:

  • The appearance of unexpected stops in the engine when it starts;
  • The motor begins to sob under load;
  • The amount of exhaust emissions has increased dramatically.

All these signs indicate a failure in the settings of the standard carburetor of the snowplow. Without timely adjustment, the unit will begin to consume too much fuel, and its internal elements will succumb to a significant load, which will lead to even more serious breakdowns.

How to adjust a carburetor on a snow blower. the procedure in detail

Before adjusting the carburetor of the snow blower, it is necessary to start and warm up the motor of the unit. The further operation algorithm is as follows:

  1. First of all, remove the crankcase ventilation tube and check for vacuum;
  2. Find the screws for adjusting the composition of the mixture and begin to screw them in turn until you hear the unstable and tough operation of the motor;
  3. During maximum engine operation, stop tightening the screws. Otherwise, the snow blower motor will stall;
  4. Finally, unscrew the screws one full turn back. During this, the unit motor will start to run smoothly and without strange sounds.

After adjusting the carburetor, you need to turn off the engine of the snow blower. After this, the engine must be started again and continue to work.

Types of Gasoline Snow Blowers

All gasoline snow blowers are distinguished by the type of chassis and the convenience of working with them. There are two types of them:

A comparison of the work of snowplows of gasoline self-propelled and non-self-propelled, see the video:

In addition, snow blowers are divided by the number of stages of the snow removal system:

  • single-stage (auger);
  • two-stage (auger and rotor).

Also, gasoline snow removal units are divided by:

  • type of engine;
  • motor power;
  • the presence of headlights;
  • bucket width and height;
  • mass;
  • cost.

Not all units are equipped with additional equipment, therefore it is called optional. Such equipment facilitates the use of a snow blower.

The most common headlight, which happens to be equipped with even very budget models.

The headlight bulb works from a generator connected to the engine and ensures the creation of an ignition spark, so the headlight does not light when the engine is off.

The headlamp facilitates snow removal in the evening and at night, as well as in conditions of poor visibility.

Approximately half of the models install a two-stage snow removal system, which consists of 2 parts:

So that the auger can give the snow the necessary acceleration, it is necessary to greatly increase the speed of its rotation. This negatively affects the auger resource and is especially dangerous if there is a chance that the auger will collide with a hard surface, including ice.

The second stage allows you to reduce the speed of rotation of the screw by 2–4 times, and also use a screw in the form of a screw, which has better performance. After all, the screw’s task is to feed snow to the rotor, and already the rotor will give the snow to be removed the necessary acceleration.

A snow blower auger with a two-stage snow removal (cleaning) system is not afraid of contact not only with ice, but even with asphalt or concrete.

The third type of additional equipment, which is installed only on electric blowers, is an electric starter. It is performed in two versions. powered by:

  • battery;
  • AC power.

Battery electric starter is much more expensive, but it allows you to comfortably start a snow blower even away from the wall outlet or in the absence of electricity, therefore it is more universal.

The main and additional parameters of the snow blower

When choosing a snow blower, one has to consider their various parameters and characteristics. Indeed, despite the fact that the common task for these devices is the same. snow removal. the requirements of each customer are individual.

All gasoline snow blowers are divided according to several basic parameters.

Horsepower (hp):

  • low-power (up to 4 hp);
  • average power (up to 7 hp);
  • high power (over 7 hp);

Weight in kilograms (kg):

  • lungs (up to 40 kg);
  • medium (up to 90 kg);
  • heavy (over 90 kg);

Cost in rubles:

  • inexpensive (up to 30 thousand rubles);
  • medium (up to 60 thousand rubles);
  • expensive (over 90 thousand rubles).

Weight is a very important parameter when choosing a snow blower, especially when it comes to non-self-propelled gasoline models. After all, a heavy snow thrower is difficult to independently roll into a barn or hangar, which means that a teenager or a woman will not be able to work with it.

The financial opportunities also differ for everyone, so when choosing you will have to pay attention to devices from the corresponding price range.

Unfortunately, the most inexpensive snow blowers do not differ in high engine power and the presence of a self-propelled propulsion device.

Additional parameters that may affect the choice of a snow blower and its ease of use include:

  • throwing distance, snow in meters;
  • performance (this parameter depends on many factors);
  • noise level;
  • fuel consumption, liters per hour.

Choosing a gasoline snow blower, focus not only on the basic, but also on additional parameters. Everyone has different requirements and, at times, the specific requirements are best satisfied by an inexpensive snow blower. And it happens that a model with the necessary characteristics is in a different price range.

The snow throwing distance describes how far the machine will tilt the snow. This distance varies from 4 to 12-15 meters and depends not only on power, but also on the presence of a second stage rotor. In addition, the snow condition also affects the tilt range.

We made our own rating, which included the best (in our opinion) snow blowers of each type.

In addition to listing the models, we will indicate their advantages over other similar units, as well as disadvantages (if any).

AL-KO SnowLine 55E is a very expensive device for its price category, the main advantages of which are:

  • the presence of an electric starter,
  • powerful motor.

Thanks to the somewhat redundant power for non-self-propelled aggregates, it easily copes not only with fresh, but also with packed snow. Nevertheless, this is a non-self-propelled device, so it is less convenient to use than most self-propelled snow blowers. On the official website, the price of the device is 35 thousand rubles.

CHAMPION ST655BS. This unit takes the second place. It is also equipped with an electric starter, but the motor is inferior to the leader in power, in addition, many users note the low reliability of the screw. On the official website, the cost of a snow blower is 33 thousand rubles.

Interskol SMB-550 is one of the cheapest, but reliable and productive snow removal machines.

Engine power is enough to clean the area around the house, and a toothed steel auger easily crumbles even packed and dense snow. The screw rotor mechanism casts snow for 5–12 meters, and the deep tread of the wheels (lugs) ensures reliable grip on the road surface.

The cost of such a snow blower is 36 thousand rubles, as stated on the official website of Interskol.

CHAMPION ST1170BS is the most powerful wheeled snow blower in the Champion lineup, and is also equipped with an electric starter. At the same time, the device is relatively inexpensive (69 thousand rubles), because most units of this power are much more expensive.

The snow blower easily copes with deep, packed and wet snow, throwing it back 10 meters or more. With good care, it is very reliable. You will find more detailed information on the manufacturer’s website at this link.

HUSQVARNA ST 230P is a very expensive, comfortable and not too powerful snow blower equipped with an electric starter. Its advantage is the ability to lock one of the wheels for better turning.

The technical characteristics and real capabilities are seriously inferior to the previous snow blower, but many are willing to pay 140 thousand rubles for a wheel drive with a differential and a well-known brand. You can find more information about this model of the snow thrower at this link.

PATRIOT PRO 1150 ED is an inexpensive and at the same time quite powerful and reliable unit equipped with the functions inherent in snowblowers of an more expensive segment, that is:

  • starting from an electric starter,
  • heated handles.

Power in 11 liters. with. enough to clean even tightly packed snow, and a bright headlight allows you to work at night. The cost of this device is 86 thousand rubles, and a more detailed description is on the manufacturer’s website.

AL-KO SnowLine 760TE. this snow blower is in second place due to the standard equipment for its price, a slightly more powerful motor and the reputation of the manufacturer. However, he has no serious advantages over the leader, but he costs much more. On the official website of the manufacturer, where you can find its detailed specifications, its price is 129 thousand rubles.

HUSQVARNA ST 327PT. the snow blower is in third place because of its price. Its cost is 210 thousand rubles, despite the fact that the only advantage is a hydrostatic transmission.

The mover of this type is more reliable to friction, but in case of breakdown the cost of repair will be 3-5 times higher. According to its capabilities, it is comparable with the leaders of the rating. detailed specifications of this snow thrower can be found on the manufacturer’s website at.

There were doubts whether to take a gas blower? Watch the video:

Gasoline snow blower is a universal unit that covers almost all snow removal options in any territory. Now you will be less confused in terms and will be able to choose exactly the snow removal unit that is suitable specifically for your tasks.

Read more about the various parameters of gasoline snow blowers and how to choose them to choose, read here.


The adjustment of the Shtil chainsaw carburetor may be necessary when changing the quality of the fuel, the altitude at which the Shtil chainsaw is used (vacuum), as well as when changing atmospheric pressure, temperature and humidity. Tuning the carburetor of the chainsaw allows you to achieve excellent performance chainsaws with the deterioration of external operating conditions. Also, adjusting the carburetor of the chainsaw helps prevent oil starvation and engine breakdown due to insufficient lubrication entering the cylinder with a lean fuel mixture.

Tip: To check the tightness of the engine, it is very good to use a special device, i.e. special pump with pressure gauge. First you need to remove the carburetor on the chainsaw, and install a sealed plate plug with a flange on the inlet window of the cylinder to connect the hose to the pump. The spark plug for tightness can also be put on the sealant. You must also remove the muffler, and install a sealed plate with a rubber gasket on the exhaust port of the cylinder. Then you need to put the piston at top dead center and connect the hose from the pump to the flange. Next, you need to pump air into the engine up to 0.9 atm. and look at the gauge needle. if it stands still, then the piston of the engine is tight. Then we release air, switch the device (pump) and start pumping air out of the cylinder, creating a vacuum in the engine with a pressure gauge reading of 0.5 atm. We look at the pressure gauge needle. if it stands still, then through the gaskets or other seals in the engine there is no air leak (which worsens the operation of the chainsaw and does not allow the carburetor to be correctly adjusted for the chainsaw). Thus, we check the engine for air leakage and compression.

Adjusting the carburetor of the chainsaw Calm 180.

Tip: It is very good to use a special device to check the tightness of the engine, i.e. special pump with pressure gauge. First you need to remove the carburetor on the chainsaw, and install a sealed plate plug with a flange on the inlet window of the cylinder to connect the hose to the pump. The spark plug for tightness can also be put on the sealant. You must also remove the muffler, and install a sealed plate with a rubber gasket on the exhaust port of the cylinder. Then you need to put the piston at top dead center and connect the hose from the pump to the flange. Next, you need to pump air into the engine up to 0.9 atm. and look at the gauge needle. if it stands still, then the piston of the engine is tight. Then we release air, switch the device (pump) and start pumping air out of the cylinder, creating a vacuum in the engine with a pressure gauge reading of 0.5 atm. We look at the pressure gauge needle. if it stands still, then through the gaskets or other seals in the engine there is no air leak (which worsens the operation of the chainsaw and does not allow the carburetor to be correctly adjusted for the chainsaw). Thus, we check the engine for air leakage and compression.

Adjusting the carburetor of the chainsaw Calm 180.

To adjust the carburetor of the Shtil 180 chainsaw, there is only one screw. the idle adjustment screw.

1. Standard idle adjustment (abbreviated x.h.): turn the screw counterclockwise until it goes tight, after which we make two turns clockwise, and that’s it. 2. If the engine speed is too low, turn the screw clockwise until the chain starts to move, and then turn the screw 0.5 turns counterclockwise. 3. If the engine speed is too high, turn the screw counterclockwise until the chain stops turning, and then turn the screw another 0.5 turns counterclockwise.

Everything, the adjustment of the carburetor of the chainsaw Calm 180 is finished.

The main problems and malfunctions of the carburetor.

Strainer There are only two difficulties with this element:

Video: Snow Blower Carburetor. Device, Adjustment, Flushing

To feel that to find out the cause of the breakdown, the fuel filter cover is unscrewed to remove the strainer. If he just accumulated dirt, then washing with gasoline or blowing will help.

With visible damage to the strainer, it is imperative to install a new one. Damage to the fuel supply pipe also happens (when performing repairs, practice checking this element).

The carburetor starter usually does not work due to blockages. Use acetone or the same gasoline for flushing.

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Blowing off carburetor parts with a blockage of compressed air is an acceptable and comfortable repair practice.

The throttle body, the bundles of carburetor parts, the intake or exhaust pipe. our client is left with the listed parts that are subject to depressurization. Probably you can check with a simple method. spread the problem area with soap suds.

Arboretum carburetor device

The base of the carburetor is a duralumin housing. A diffuser (a hole with internal contours) is placed in a personal computer. Air is pumped through this hole. The oxygen (air) flow rate depends on the cross-section (passage opening) of the diffuser.

The diffuser is equipped with fuel channels. Fuel is drawn in there with the help of a stream of air.

Outside the carburetor is installed:

  • fuel pump;
  • jet system;
  • fuel consistency adjustment system with air;

FS-130, FS-100, FS-90 valve adjustment

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Fuel is sucked into the carburetor system by a pump (its membrane). Then it passes through the fitting in the carburetor. Further, the fluid moves through the inlet and outlet valves of the pump. Filtered by mesh. The needle valve moves into the membrane chamber.

Phased operation of the device:

  1. Air supply to the tube with an air baffle (damper). The partition controls the intensity of the air flow.
  2. The fuel supply system is certainly narrowed by the mixer in order to increase the flow rate.
  3. Gasoline through the float chamber and nozzle tube with narrowing. A camera with a float adjusts the temporary volume of gasoline. In the float chamber, the pressure level is neutral, in the tube with narrowing is already small. Due to the pressure drop, fuel leaks through the nozzle.
  4. The acceleration of the air flow contributes to the transfer of fuel (gasoline) and its atomization. Ultimately, an air-fuel mixture of the desired proportion or density appears.
  5. The air-fuel mixture seeps into the engine cylinder through the fuel pipe.

The level of air density in the system depends on the area of ​​the open air damper. The wider the damper is open, the more is the fuel consumption and power.

Simply put, adjusting the carburetor on the brushcutter is creating a good fuel consistency by using the correct air supply.

A chainsaw is a tool designed to cut branches and tree trunks. But often the so-called “assistant” for working with wood can fail. The main problem in this case is to determine the cause of the breakdown.

A chainsaw consists of three parts: a chain, a chainsaw tire, and the engine itself, which drives the chain through the tire. All chainsaws use mainly a two-stroke engine.

A distinctive feature of this four-stroke internal combustion engine was the prostate structure (lack of a CPG lubrication system and a simple system for supplying fuel assemblies to cylinders).

This makes the two-stroke engine lighter than the four-stroke, which in turn facilitates the overall weight of the saw. But this simplicity also reduces the motor resource of the power unit. The fact is that oil in two-stroke engines is added to gasoline. And when the engine is running, it gets into the engine cylinder along with the fuel. This is how the lubrication and cooling of the rubbing parts inside the crankcase and cylinder takes place.

Of course, with long work this is not enough. Therefore, the first malfunction is the jamming of the piston in the cylinder due to overheating of the latter! In this case, the main recommendation when working with a chainsaw is to constantly stop the engine to cool the piston!

Such a remark is especially true in the hot season! Frequent jamming of the piston can lead to destruction of the compression rings and scuffing on the “mirror” of the cylinder. Which in turn will reduce the compression of the motor and, consequently, lower power!

Summary of the article:

  • Motor does not start
  • Carburetor repair in a chainsaw
  • No oil enters tool chain
  • Tire sprocket wear
  • Photo-instructions for repairing chainsaws

Motor does not start

Another malfunction that is often encountered during the operation of such “engines” is not starting the engine when spinning the starter by hand. The main reason in this case may be the ignition system.

The first step in this case is to check the candles. This will give a general idea of ​​what is happening in the combustion chamber. If the candle is “raw”, then this indicates the satisfactory operation of the fuel assembly system (fuel-air mixture) in the cylinder. If it is “dry”, then the reason lies in the malfunction of the fuel system.

In the first case, you need to see the state of the candle electrodes. No soot is allowed, as this may be the reason for the lack of a “good” spark during magneto operation. Also, it will not be amiss to check the gap between the electrodes of the candle. If the gap is not correct, then it should be adjusted. Still possible and just the failure of the candles.

In this case, the latter is simply replaced with a new one. If starting after these manipulations does not start, the probable cause is the failure of the ignition coil. This element, as a rule, is not repaired, but immediately changes to a new one. You can also check the condition of the armor wire from the coil to the spark plug. Breakdown of insulation of this wire is not allowed.

In the second case (when the candle is “dry”), the first thing to do is to check the condition of the carburetor air filter. As a rule, if it is contaminated, it simply changes to a new one, since this part is not so expensive. Then you need to check the fuel filter of the gas tank.

Dirt and metal particles from corrosion of the inner cavity of the tank can gradually "clog" the mesh element of the filter. This will lead to the cessation of fuel supply to the carburetor of the engine.

If the filter is in satisfactory condition, then the next step will be directly determining the performance of the carburetor. This device provides mixing of fuel with air before feeding into the fuel assembly cylinder.

Carburetor repair in a chainsaw

The design of carburetors of two-stroke engines is elementary. And the main reason here is the clogging of small holes and jets from debris leaked through the filter.

Therefore, disassembling the carburetor in this case can not be avoided. Thoroughly flushing carburetor elements and blowing holes with air: the basic technique in resolving this malfunction!

After the carburetor is assembled and mounted on the chainsaw motor. Then there is an adjustment of idling through the screws of the quantity and quality of the mixture. Each specific engine model has its own adjustment parameters recorded in the passport for this product.

As a rule, after this repair algorithm, the engine should start. However, this may not always happen. Therefore, a strong recommendation in this case is to check the compression in the cylinder!

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Perhaps the destruction of the CPG elements (cylinder-piston group) is the main reason for not starting. This, of course, will require a complete disassembly of the engine with an assessment of the condition of the piston, connecting rod, crankshaft. In this case, expensive repairs to replace failed parts with new ones cannot be avoided.

With regard to malfunctions associated directly with the mechanical parts of the chainsaw, they are:

No oil enters tool chain

A very common malfunction. The fact is that the lubricant supply channel can become clogged with sawdust during operation.

This in turn will lead to oil starvation and rapid blunting of the chain teeth. Therefore, cleaning this channel from dirt is a constant concern for a person using a chainsaw.

Tire sprocket wear

If the chain tension is not observed in time, then the backlash formed between the sprocket teeth and chain troughs can lead to wear and even destruction of these teeth. Therefore, chain tension control is of utmost importance to the owner of this tool.

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The general recommendation for caring for a chainsaw is as follows: after work, it is necessary to clean the chainsaw from dirt and sawdust, while using cleaning fluids and compressed air !!

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Cleaning and repairing a chainsaw carburetor or replacement.

Cleaning, adjusting or repairing a chainsaw carburetor is one of the most sought after repair services. Since the gasoline saw motor is 2-stroke and runs on the mixture, oil is always present in the fuel, which tends to decompose. Not just that all manufacturers of such equipment recommend storing the solution for no more than 3 weeks, and store the saw without fuel or with clean gasoline in the carburetor. In other words, if after work you have not prepared the saw for long-term storage, then you should know: the probability that your carburetor will be clogged is 80%. We do not recommend repairing chainsaws or climbing into the carburetor yourself, because in its device there are a lot of small parts that fly out and get lost during improper disassembly. The problem of loss of locking rubber bands and gaskets during the purge of the nozzles is especially common. For cleaning carburetors we use special fluids and ultrasounds, but unfortunately not all carburetors can be flushed, adjusted and repaired, and sometimes you have to change the carburetor completely.

Overhaul of the chainsaw engine.

I repeat. the 2-stroke chainsaw engine is refueled with a solution of gasoline with oil. The oil in the solution plays the role of engine lubrication and therefore if you work on clean gasoline or use an old solution with oil that has precipitated, you will ruin the engine with a 100% probability. Without lubrication, the chainsaw engine can work for a minute and 30 minutes, depending on the quality of the tool and the materials from which it is made. We saw a lot of motors that worked without oil and clients tell different stories, someone worked without oil for about half an hour. these are good saws like: Husqvarna, Stihl, Echo, Oleo-mac; Someone bent over in the first 5 minutes, these are Chinese saws. such as: Champion, Patriot, Prorab, Interskol and others. The consequences of oil starvation are: seizure on the piston and cylinder, sticking rings, wedge of needle bearing and crankshaft. The only treatment will be the replacement of the piston group (CPG). rings, piston and cylinder, bearings and seals. It must be remembered that the correct use of the tool will protect against expensive overhaul of the chainsaw.

Chainsaw starter repair with spring and rope replacement.

The so-called manual chainsaw starter is used to start the engine. Very often we accept saws with a torn or sticking out rope and request to repair only the starter, but it is necessary to understand why the starter is broken. This usually happens after constant attempts to start a faulty motor. We can repair the starter, but there is no guarantee that the engine will start, so initially we look at the condition of the engine and only then we begin to make the starter. Chainsaw repair is an integrated approach to the installation of the entire tool. The list of works includes: replacing the rope, replacing the springs, replacing the dogs, replacing the ratchet.

Replacing drive chain.

One of the most frequent calls to our service center is the replacement of the drive chain sprocket sprocket. At first glance, it might seem that this is an elementary operation that can be done with your own hands. In principle, the way it is if you have a special tool, a skill in locking the piston and releasing the clutch. Obvious signs that it is necessary to repair the chainsaw are: chain wedging and extraneous noise in the area of ​​the chain brake. Turning the saw over you will see the star and its production.

Injection engines

The main advantage that the manufacturers of the first engines with electronic injection indicated in their advertisements was the exceptional stability of the work. Indeed, the installation of an injection controlled by microprocessors helped to accurately meter the amount of fuel entering the cylinders, which means to reduce fuel consumption, reduce the intensity of vibrations and noise, and also achieve compliance with the latest environmental standards. The fact is that mixture formation in the injection motor is carried out directly in the intake tract, and not in a separate unit. for this, special nozzles are used, which play the role of a sprayer. At the same time, they certainly do not need frequent adjustment. even if any of the parameters deviates from the norm, the electronics will give a command to automatically correct it, and after a few outbreaks the system balance will return to normal.

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In addition, automatic adjustment of the injection motor allows for easier start-up even at very low temperatures, as the electronics selects the optimal fuel metering parameters for rarefied air. A significant difference between the two systems for supplying fuel to the engine cylinders is also that the injector can be adjusted depending on the needs of the motorist. To do this, just upload a new program to the control unit or change the parameters of an existing one. In some expensive cars of recent years of production, there is even the possibility of changing the maximum power or response to the gas pedal by pressing a single button located in the passenger compartment.

Of course, such advantages as environmental friendliness, profitability and the ability to control parameters are very important. However, the injector also has a number of rather serious drawbacks. The main disadvantage of such a system is its high cost. in the manufacture of the engine control unit, many complex components are used, not to mention nozzles, sensors and electric drives. In addition, even the simplest breakdown may require contacting a specialized service station, since without a special electronic scanner and other equipment it will be impossible to eliminate it. Of course, almost any car service enterprise now has all the necessary tools, but you still need to get to it, because you won’t be able to repair the car “in the field”.

Also, almost all injection engines are sensitive to fuel quality. If we talk about modern engines with direct fuel injection into cylinders, then even the appearance of small solid impurities or salts of heavy metals in gasoline is unacceptable to them. This is due to the use of piezoelectric nozzles, the components of which can be dissolved by many chemical compounds. It is worth mentioning that some engines with an electronic injection system require the use of gasoline with an octane rating of A-98 or more for stable operation. Finally, we can say about the dependence on electronic components, which makes injection engines inaccessible for use in military vehicles.

The choice

Knowing how the injector differs from the carburetor, you can choose the best option for the purchase. At present, carburetor cars of domestic or foreign manufacturers will be more in demand in small towns and villages remote from large settlements. It will be useful for their maintainability, as well as the availability of spare parts and the ability to adjust on their own. In other cases, the best choice would be injection machines, which are characterized by lower fuel consumption, easier start-up of the power unit and excellent stability.

Sale of new cars Discounts on new cars of 2017 and 2018 of release. Loan 9.9% and installment plan 0% Read more

The best prices and conditions for the purchase of new cars

Hyundai creta from 639 000 rub

Kia rio from 514 900 rub

Hyundai Solaris from 474 900 rub

Renault Duster from 429 000 rub

Credit 9.9% / Installments / Trade-in / 98% approvals / Gifts in the salon

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