Stand for a large angle grinder with their own hands

Stand for an angle grinder. advantages and disadvantages

Angle grinder (angle grinder or UShMa), which has received the unofficial name of “angle grinder”. one of the most common universal tools designed for abrasive treatment of various products made of metal, wood, stone. “angle grinder” it is because it first appeared in the USSR from Bulgaria, where it was produced in the factory in the town of Lovech. To perform a variety of precise work with an angle grinder, many craftsmen make a rack for the angle grinder with their own hands.

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Overview of possible options for making racks for the angle grinder

Rack for the angle grinder, as mentioned above. this is not a complicated mechanism, but this statement applies only to the simplest designs. Having considered all the variety of factory-made and self-made devices, you can distinguish three main types of devices:

• the simplest pendulum type bed;
• Pendulum mechanism with swivel unit for cutting with the angle grinder at different angles;
• angle grinder frame with so-called broach.

The most common and easy to make homemade machine for angle grinder is built on the basis of a pendulum console. With such equipment, you can easily saw various pipes, both round and profile sections, as well as bars, fittings and metal parts, the thickness of which does not exceed the thickness of the working part of the disc, and the length of the kerf can be adjusted by moving the workpiece on the bed. Features of the angle grinder attachment:

• ease of fabrication and operation;
• high reliability, as it uses only one movable unit;
• it is not possible to saw at an angle with this equipment;
• it is difficult to saw sheet material: little precision and injury hazards.

The design of the bed with a swivel mechanism for angle grinder allows for all of the metal cutting operations described above, but it adds the function of sawing with an angle grinder at different angles. Here, too, there is a pendulum assembly, and, in addition, the pendulum support itself can rotate, or the stop-clamp that holds the workpiece can rotate. Features of the device:

• Expanded metalworking capabilities of the angle grinder;
• relative simplicity of design;
• Accurate angular and perpendicular cuts are more difficult to achieve due to the swivel mechanism and the need for angle calibration.

The mechanism with a broach is the most difficult to perform. In it, in addition to the pendulum assembly, it uses a unit for pulling the angle grinder in the horizontal direction.

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Stand for a large angle grinder with their own hands

I want to tell and show how with your own hands you can make a stand for an angle grinder with a broach from the simplest materials. Such a design is always useful to the home handyman for precise cutting of various metal profiles, or even for dissolving laths, if the trimming disc of the angle grinder is replaced by a circular saw.

What must be done

It is desirable that the angle grinder (angle grinder) or angle grinder you have more than one. constantly remove it from the stand mount, and then screw it back is not very convenient. But on the spot you see what to do.

Preparing

Before the work, gather all the necessary materials and tools for this:

• angle 50×50 mm;
• different bolts and nuts;
• spring made of tool (alloy) steel;
• clamp;
• angle grinder;
• Locksmith’s angle;
• electric welding machine;
• a tape measure, a straightedge or a pencil.

Let’s proceed to assembly

Cut two 50x50mm angles, 450mm long, and two 350mm long, and then make 45˚ cuts on one shelf. Fold these blanks on an even plane and weld together to form a rectangular frame. this will be the bed for the rack. Before you thoroughly weld the seam, check the assembly with a locksmith’s angle so that there is exactly 90˚, without the slightest error. Chop away the scale on the joints and grind them as usual with an angle grinder. Insert two more profiles into the frame along the length, so that the vertical flanges face the outer perimeter. The gap between these profiles must be big enough to hold a 19 mm bolt head. You will need this later on for fixing.

Cut two 50mm pieces of angle and weld them to a 50x100x50mm channel. Weld it to the base as shown on the top picture, that will support the sliding arm of the angle grinder.

Now you need to make a homemade profile with a section of 50×30 mm, as shown in the top image. To do that cut two pieces of 285mm and 350mm each, then shorten one of the flanges to 30mm to make 50x30mm. Weld this structure.

For the arm for the angle grinder you need an extra clamp, which you make from a 120 mm long piece of angle. One shelf will need to be trimmed, leaving only 20mm so that the result is 50x20mm.

Look at the photo above: it shows how you need to weld the cut out extra retainer to the lever. Remember to check all angles which must be exactly 90°, without any tolerances. Join these two parts into one piece.

To fix the angle grinder in the assembly you have created, you need to drill holes in the shelves as shown in the image above.

Now attach the angle grinder to the L-shaped arm you just made. Unfortunately, the manufacturer does not provide anything for this, so you will have to make holes in the body of the power tool to fasten the whole structure with bolts, as it is shown in the photo above. Here you need to be very careful that the position of the cutting blade in relation to the frame is still the same 90°. Of course, you can make a clamp for such fastening, but it is not quite rigid and a failure can happen at work, that is, if the drive turns, at least half a degree, it will simply fly apart.

Now you have one more job, requiring increased accuracy. To move the lever up and down, a door hinge must be welded to it and to the support (homemade channel). Do not be stingy and buy in a store a quality canopy, where one hundred percent exclude any backlash.

We proceed to the next stage of assembling the broaching stand, and for this you will have to sacrifice a clamp, with which you can make a mechanism for clamping (fixing) of the workpiece.

The bottom (fixed) heel must be cut off. you don’t need it, but to the moving heel weld a small angle. For this purpose a piece of a profile of length ≈50 mm is enough, and make the shelves on ≈10 mm, only identical.

Cut a 200 mm long piece of profile and with an angle grinder make a longitudinal hole on one flank so that a 19 mm bolt can easily pass through it. this will be necessary to change the degree of cut of the workpiece. Drill a hole in the edge of the flange for the hinge. Weld the clamp to the angle as shown in the top photo, without any misalignment.

Now screw your assembled unit to the frame as shown in the picture, just don’t tighten the nuts until you have set the desired angle for the cut. By the way, it can be set by means of a school protractor.

Now you can try how accurate your broach stand is. Clamp into it any profile, set the desired angle, make the cut and check the quality of work. If you have not forgotten this mantra about 90° anywhere, everything should turn out perfectly.

In order for the angle grinder to arbitrarily lean back when you let go of the handle, you need to screw a good spring made of alloy steel to the bottom of the body. To prevent this spring from slipping on the base, drill a hole at this point, put a bolt in it and secure it with a nut from below. Its head should be slightly smaller than the inside diameter of the spring. Now all that’s left is to paint all the parts and work at your pleasure.

The stand for the angle grinder with their own hands, drawings

A very simple stand for the angle grinder can be made from just a few pieces of rectangular profile in a couple of dozen minutes. And in the end you will have an excellent cutting machine with which you can cut metal workpieces smoothly and quickly.

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Materials and tools

The first question a home handyman faces when constructing a stand for the angle grinder is what to make it out of. The answer to this question is elementary: let’s use what we have. If you have any plumbing pipes handy, they can be used to make the pivots and guides. If there is a metal angle, let’s make a frame of it

The pivot point is the heart and most complex part of the pendulum cut-off saw. It carries the heaviest loads and the pendulum arm should not pivot to the left or right at will. Treat the construction of this unit with the utmost care. It is ideal to use roller bearings. Pick a couple of suitable dimensions and work around them to build the rest.

It is best to make the mounting of the pendulum arm on ball or roller bearings. This ensures the best possible precision and rigidity. But if there are no suitable ready-made items, you can look at the variants of homemade designs of this unit.

If there are no ready-made bearings, pick up pairs of metal tubes and steel pins of suitable diameters. It will allow you to make not too high quality, but homemade bearings. The suspension of the pendulum lever for the “plywood” machine is made of good pendulum hinges used for doors and wicket doors.

In any case, it’s better to make the pendulum lever from metal angle or metal profile. But the holder, which will be fixed to the angle grinder, will surely be made of a wooden bar.

For reliable and tight fixation of the angle grinder in the holder, it is better to cover the bed with soft and durable material. For example, with leatherette. And it is more convenient to clamp the angle grinder to the holder with flexible metal ties with a screw knot. These are widely used in plumbing and auto repair shops.

The base is best made of thick sheet metal. Compromises are possible, up to thick plywood mounted on a wooden beam frame. It is good to provide on the work table the possibility of fixing the stop angles at some standard angles to the axis of the cut. That’s how we get a “mitre saw”.

Do not forget that control the inclusion of the angle grinder on the machine in the usual way now will not work. We can replace the operator’s hand on the control keys with the same screw ties for pipes. But the keyboard control station (which we will fix on the base), the socket for inclusion in the chain of a fixed angle grinder and wire with a plug long enough to include the entire machine into the network should be pripasti.

If we have metal workpieces at our disposal, it is best to connect them by welding. If you do not have such a possibility, it is better to turn to your familiar masters of the business. The bolt and nut connections will come loose over time and undermine the advantages of the metal frame.

Of course, the angle grinder itself also comes in handy during the construction of the machine. While cutting up blanks for the rack with it you can feel like Munchausen pulling himself out of a swamp by the pigtail.

The second way to create a machine

Creating a machine with the use of an angle grinder by this method will be a little more difficult, but the tool will provide a more effective accuracy of cutting materials. In order to carry out the work, you will have to create:

The frame of the table should be welded from an angle and channel. As a tabletop, you can use a special sheet metal, but in some cases use materials such as:

The decision as to what material to use in the creation will directly depend on the purpose for which you want to use such a device, as well as with what circuits in the future you will work. In the process of creating a machine from an angle grinder by this method, you must also create a frame structure, one part of which will be completely immobile and will serve as additional support.

One part should be placed on the table top and fixed firmly with special bolts and welding. The second construction will be connected to the first with the help of hinges. The angle grinder itself will be installed on it, the position of which can easily be changed independently. To return the equipment to its initial state, you need to use a special spring.

If you will create a cutting machine from an angle grinder, you also use a ruler to create it. With the help of a ruler you can easily set the overall dimensions of all samples. A separate tube or an iron with markings and a movable marker is most often used for this.

What you have to consider

Many different machine models have been developed today. Sometimes the angle grinder is placed under the tabletop, and sometimes over the surface itself. If we talk about safety, then the cutting machine with your own hands, the drawings of which you can create completely by yourself, it is best to place it on top, because this is the version that will be more reliable.

On the special line of adjacency of the disc in the angle grinder to the tabletop, a special cutout is made. If you have any knowledge of electronics, the inclusion should be made through a special magnetic starter, in which case the start button is combined with a specialized pedal. Even if the operator’s hands are full, he can stop the machine with his foot.

During the creation of a cutting machine from an angle grinder by yourself, the drawings should be very carefully considered. Very often they help not to make unnecessary mistakes in the design of the device. It is very important to follow all safety rules. At the moment when the assembly is finished, the machine should be run through one more time to check conclusively that there is no runout of the blade itself. He should not touch the safety guard of the machine.

Assembling the machine

When the craftsman decides to make his own tripod for the angle grinder, it helps to avoid a lot of costs, since the factory models are expensive and short-lived. But a good result depends, among other things, on the presence of elementary skills:

• Skills to handle the angle grinder and household welding machine.
• Careful drilling of holes.
• Spare time and patience.

In order for the stand to meet all performance requirements, its assembly must take place in a strict sequence. Depending on personal preferences, the master can develop his own drawing, which will correspond to a particular model of angle grinder or you can use ready-made drawings. In addition, before any manipulation, you need to check the working condition of the main unit. If it does not work well and often breaks, then there is no need to build under it a powerful base.

Experts say that the order of assembly of the rack for the angle grinder is as follows:

• Initially it is necessary to prepare a metal pipe, which must be carefully cut into sections of a certain length. All manipulations must be in accordance with the drawing used.
• Drill small holes in the designated places.
• Make the upper and lower frames at this stage.
• Weld or bolt the metal workpieces together.
• Take the metal sheet or chipboard you have prepared in advance.
• Depending on the diameter of the stand, cut out the working surface.
• Place the prepared surface on the lower platform of the work table.
• Secure everything with bolts.
• Attach the holder to the vertical frame so that the pendulum type of rotation is free.
• Carefully install a precise spring that will return the angle grinder to its original position every time.
• One end of the spring must be secured to the top of the stand, but the other end to the holder.
• It’s time to get a 12-volt relay, which will help increase the comfort level of working with an angle grinder It should be located in such a way that it is convenient to reach the button while working.
• Thoroughly inspect the condition of the wiring and check its functionality.
• Always have a separate socket in your workshop for the frame you are using.
• Get good-quality paints, varnishes, and primers to completely coat the appliance you’ve created. These manipulations will help to give the product a final and spectacular appearance. In addition, a protective coating of primer prevents the rack from being adversely affected by corrosion.
• At this stage, it remains to equip the design with a movable ruler and a special limiter.
• Check the finished frame for operability, start the angle grinder at idle speed.

When each of the above items is done, you can safely proceed to the main work. cutting the metal parts.

Safety precautions

Always remember that the rack must be securely fixed to the bed. To protect yourself from injury and accidents, you need to adhere to the basic recommendations:

• The power cord is best secured with plastic clips, so it does not get tangled under your feet and accidentally fall under the cutting tool during its active use.
• The cable from the angle grinder must be fastened securely to the mobile part of the stand.
• During work it is advisable to use special goggles, to prevent microscopic particles of metal in the eyes.
• Before you start the machine, you must carefully inspect the cutting wheel of the angle grinder for chips and damage.

Today there are many protective elements that can be made even at home. As for the optimal size of the tripod, it is better to give your preference to those models that fit the diameter of the disc to be used. All parts of the base must correspond to the brand of the angle grinder used.

Experts say it is good to work behind a pendulum stand, which simplifies the process of sawing metal workpieces. In addition, the pendulum system is arranged in such a way that with its help you can quickly and efficiently implement tasks of any complexity. To make such a device at home is simple enough. To do this you need to take: a quality metal profile, a spring, a welding machine, a pendulum and angles.

Special attention should be paid to the iron table, on which most often masters install the design created by them. It should be checked for stability, reliability and wobbling. In addition, in the process of making even the smallest parts of the rack you must not forget about safety measures.

Stand for a large angle grinder with their own hands

Stand for angle grinder (angle grinder) with their own hands or self-made cutting machine

As I said before, in the garage there are two problems. to cut off evenly and to drill evenly. The problem with the drilling is solved, the drill stand was worth the time and money for a hundred percent. The angle grinder has been gathering dust in the corner for a long time, waiting for its time. Exactly angular grinder. made in 1977. in Bulgaria, the “ELPROM LOVECH”, terribly heavy, but, according to rumors, a very reliable angle grinder. I tried to work with it. I thought I was if not a hard worker, then I’m sure I’m experienced. Worked always a big Makita 9069, the thing is pretty powerful and heavy. But the angle grinder compared to the Makita is a wild beast. With a similar power to the Makita 1.9 kW it is much heavier, and mine has 180 mm disks and 8500 rpm output rpm. In general, I decided then, that in the hands I will not take it anymore (pescotno) and the way it is only in the rack. And wanted to make a rack a long time ago. And of course the stand should be as usual. “light, strong and reliable”. I’ll tell you right away, the only justification for the work done. “well, it’s for myself, for many years, a good tool is not easy”.

Started out like everyone else. welded a rectangle for the base.

For hinge was taken the rear hub, I think from Chery Tiggo. Cut off its central ledge, ripped off ABS sensor.

The hub is attached to the channel, in which a hole is cut out for mounting. I cut it out with the angle grinder, it’s pretty hard by the way. Finished with a file.

I started to make the main bracket for the angle grinder from the angle grinder. At first I adjusted corners to regular places of fixing handles and then welded the third corner between them.

Then I bent the bracket-collar by the body of angle grinder of 2 mm steel.

To this clamp welded a bolt and connected with an angle piece. To the whole obtained construction I have welded a 50X50 tube with holes for attaching to the hub.

Using a bolt to adjust the angle grinder position relative to the table. Then I welded a 60 angle to the base. that’s where the channel will be fixed. I estimate the position and I drill a channel and a corner under it. Mounting bolts will be different. M10 and M12, this is due to the second adjustment, the channel should rotate a bit at the expense of larger holes for the bolts.

Then I welded two more pipes. guides for the clamping mechanism, and reinforced the structure with two pieces of 50th angle piece.

Further on top of all this I welded sheets with thickness of 4 mm. No matter how hard I tried, I didn’t get a perfectly flat surface, there are 1-1.5 mm differences, but in practice it doesn’t affect the cutting accuracy.

Now it’s possible to assemble the setup. I additionally reinforce the channel and the main bracket with angles. The total weight of the installation is not critical yet, but already quite interesting.

Then there was the long and tedious part. rigging for work. This is the workpiece stop and clamp, this is the return spring, this is the table expander. Let’s start with the workpiece stop. We take a piece of 50-th angle, weld a small rectangle to it.

Now I have to cut an arc in it, so I can cut workpieces at any angle. Using the template first I drill the holes in the arc. Then I mill the arc completely.

Now the clamping device. The screw was taken from an old and bent eighth jack. I figured it would be better than a normal Chinese threaded rod. I ground the end of the screw down to 6mm and threaded it.

For the moving part, the most difficult thing was to make the axle. I made it from the piece of that Chinese bolt, I’ll tell you right away. I didn’t use lathe, I milled it to needed diameter by angle grinder, though with some devices.

It remains to fix the nut. The presser was supposed to be detachable, so it was bolted down, and the threads were cut right into the table. The jack nut was welded with pieces of 4 mm steel.

Since the clamp was ready, I decided to cut the pipe for the legs of the table and see how it all worked. As a result I made a cut on the stop of the workpiece. the gear case of the angle grinder rested on it. Also later I trimmed the clip to the width.

By the way, in the photo you can see the wing-nuts. with them I have worked one cut. Never use wing nuts in these places, the manual force is not enough to hold the stop well. It’s an invaluable experience. the nuts came loose, the disc shattered. Now it’s just regular nuts, I always tighten very tightly.

Next is the return spring. Like a spring I thought it would be a spring, but it ended up being something cooler. I realize I’ve complicated it, but it was worth it. I imagine how strong the spring is to hold the angle grinder, and that the effort at the end of the cut should not be small. Besides, after the cut, you have to move the angle grinder smoothly upwards. I want it to go back smoothly after cutting and releasing it. What’s needed to do that?? The gas stop, of course, is from a nine-year-old, lying on the shelf a long time ago. And the return system has to be concealed, that means it has to work from below. That means you’d need extra rods and levers. In fact, it turned out to be quite easy, I would even say quick. First I made a slot in the table for the lever. I made the lever itself from angle piece, and by many adaptations I gave it needed shape. The arm is attached directly to the hub, to the original stud.

We need some more details. the gas stop proper, long rod to it, collar bent from the stud M6. The stopper was just where it was. It worked the first time. At first it seemed to lift a little, but when the angle grinder got all sorts of handles and the hood, it turned out just right.

Parts of the return mechanism. Mechanism in compressed/uncompressed positions.

That’s almost all. I also made a spark arrester. just a tin screwed into the path of the sparks. I also made a separate lever. bolted the pipe to the main bracket and screwed the standard side handle of the angle grinder to the pipe. Of course I made the extension of the table, on the principle of tube-in-tube. Here was a problem, inside the pipe 50X50 is a pipe 45X45. It exists in principle, but in fact it is nowhere to be found. I had to weld 4 mm strips onto a 40X40 tube. On the expansion will always be two tools. an additional stop blank. is needed to cut the workpiece was not picked up by the disc and did not fly away, and an additional stop for “cloning” parts. if you need two or more parts of the same length do not need to measure the length of each cut.

Extending the table and the attachments on it.

Yes, I forgot about the blade guard. The native cover was long lost, it was already under the 230th disk. I extended it to the max where I could and made a hinged part to it like on the factory assembly saws.

Where to buy it

Stands and tripods for these machines are sold in specialty stores, as well as on the relevant Internet portals. Look for this product in the auxiliary tools or accessories for electrical equipment. Average for the piece.

To buy a product, first you need to choose the necessary device, select it in the cart. Go there and place your order. Provide all necessary details, including contact information, payment and delivery methods. The seller will contact you for clarification on the product and delivery time.

In addition, these stands are available in large quantities at construction markets. The advantage of buying at these places is that you can buy a quality and inexpensive stand, which has a high degree of reliability and will bring the appropriate benefit. Also, when buying a rack at a market, you can ask the seller in great detail about the characteristics of the product and how to use it.

Disadvantages

Reviews on the rack or tripod for the grinder depend on the specific product and experience of use. Some of the common drawbacks are:

• Can only be used as a device in an amateur workshop, it is not suitable for professionals.
• Mostly of Chinese origin, which leaves certain questions about the quality of workmanship.
• Relatively dangerous because of the simple protection when working with the products.
• Due to the simplicity of design, backlashes soon appear, and connections and clamps become less strong.

Also subject to criticism is the low quality of materials from which the rack is made, short operating life, insufficient reliability of the design nodes and a small range of discs from the angle grinder, with which the device can work. Another point concerns the price of the device, because quality stands can be sold rarely and at a relatively high price of 3000. Some advise to use homemade devices, as their reliability is sometimes higher than that of purchased designs.

Stands for the angle grinder are considered a fairly convenient tool. If you need to choose a quality product, then look not only at the reviews, but also at the quality of materials and their technical specifications. The quality of trimming the desired products and the final result will depend on how well the choice is made.

Construction assembly

When the master decides to independently make a tripod for an angle grinder, it helps to avoid many costs, as factory models are expensive and short-lived. But a good result depends also on the presence of elementary skills:

• Ability to handle the angle grinder and household welding machine.
• Careful drilling of the holes.
• Spare time and patience.

In order for the stand to meet all operational requirements, its assembly must take place in a strict sequence. Depending on personal preferences, the master can develop his own drawing, which will correspond to a particular model of angle grinder, or you can use ready-made drawings. In addition, before any manipulation it is necessary to check the working condition of the main unit. If it does not work well and often breaks, then there is no need to build under it a powerful bed.

Experts say that the order of assembly of the rack for the angle grinder is as follows:

• Before you begin, prepare a metal pipe that you will need to cut to accurately shaped lengths. All the manipulations must be in accordance with the used drawing.
• Drill small holes in the designated places.
• At this point, make the upper and lower frame.
• Weld the metal workpieces with a welder or screw them on with bolt joints.
• Take the metal sheet or chipboard you have already prepared.
• Depending on the diameter of the stand, cut out the work surface.
• Install the finished surface on the lower platform of the work table.
• And then secure it with bolts.
• Attach the holder to the vertical frame so that the pendulum type of rotation is free.
• Carefully install a precise spring that will return the angle grinder to its original position every time.
• One end of the spring must be fixed to the upper part of the face, and the other end to the holder.
• It’s time to get a 12-volt relay, which will help increase the comfort level of working with the angle grinder It should be positioned so that it is easy to reach the button while working.
• Carefully examine the wiring and check its functionality.
• In the workshop, be sure to provide a separate socket for the frame being used.
• Use good quality paint, varnish, and primer to coat the entire fixture. These manipulations will help give the product a finished and spectacular appearance. In addition, a protective coating of primer will protect the rack from the negative effects of corrosion.
• At this stage it remains to equip the construction with a movable ruler and a special limiter.
• Check the finished stand for proper operation, start the angle grinder at idle speed.

When each of the above items is done, you can safely proceed to the main work. cutting metal parts.

Precautions

Always remember that the stand must be firmly fixed to the bed. To protect yourself from injury and accidents, you need to adhere to the basic recommendations:

• The power cord is best secured with plastic clips so that it does not get tangled underfoot and does not accidentally fall under the cutting tool during its active use.
• The cable from the angle grinder must be securely attached to the moving part of the stand.
• During work, it is advisable to use special protective goggles, so that microscopic particles of metal do not get into the eyes.
• Before you start the machine, you need to carefully inspect the cutting wheel of the angle grinder for chips and damage.

Today there are many safety elements that can be made even at home. As for the optimal size of the tripod, it is better to give preference to those models that fit the diameter of the disc used. All parts of the bed must necessarily correspond to the brand of the used angle grinder.

Experts say that it is good to work behind the pendulum stand, which simplifies the process of sawing metal workpieces. In addition, the pendulum system is arranged in such a way that with its help you can quickly and efficiently implement tasks of any complexity. To make such a device at home is quite simple. To do this, you need to take: a quality metal profile, a spring, a welding machine, a pendulum and angles.

Special attention should be paid to the iron table, on which most often masters install the design they have created. It should be checked for stability, reliability and wobbling. In addition, in the process of making even the smallest parts of the stand you should not forget about safety measures.

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