Stand for mitre saw with my own hands

DIY amateur sawing table

Good afternoon everyone! During the discussion of one of my reviews, in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев, the participants were invited to do a review of the table I work on. In this review I will tell you how I made a cutting table by hand, from what I had, plus some things I bought for small items. Detailed SketchUp model of the table, with all elements and components, the review is attached.

I had been thinking about a sawing table for a long time, but there were a huge number of other things to do, and it was naturally put off until better times. Then, when I had a more or less calm winter last year, I came across a series of videos on homemade sawing tables and realized that this was something I needed to do.

In so many video reviews tables are made so seriously, and even always against the background of a fully equipped workshops with a bunch of machines that sometimes you look at your work conditions and doubt, but whether to take. I will tell in this review how I made a table in fairly Spartan conditions, having in my hands a circular saw, angle grinder, screwdriver and router (just here was the first time tried the router, which was new lying in a box for three years).

I had a manual circular saw Hitachi C6SS, a cheap but very reliable machine, that has stood the test of time and performed on construction sites so much work that it should be placed on a pedestal and prominently displayed in the workshop. But since any tool must work until the end, it was offered a new place.

How to Build a DIY Mobile Miter Saw Stand

After completing the main phase of the construction of the house, I had a whole sheet of 21 mm plywood (FC 4/4), which stood alone for 3 years, and it was time to use it somewhere. At that time I did not make a separate project for the table, the whole idea and the vision I had in my head, so I did it on the spot, and the main components and materials were chosen during implementation, my eyes ran through what was in the closet, the workshop, in the drawers with hardware and fasteners and other small items. Accordingly, not made any simulation, but for this review, I have already transferred the desktop in a 3D model in SketchUp, tried to present all the constituent elements, the only thing I have not traced the nuts and screws, it was lazy, and I already thought more a waste of time, because in principle it is already clear and if anything, I will explain in the course of the review. The model shows how and what is assembled, layer by layer it is possible to remove the enlarged elements, perhaps someone will find this model useful for repetition or as an idea for their realization.

So, I took a sheet of 21 mm plywood, marked and sawed with a circular saw the base of the table with the dimensions 1100 mm x 820 mm. The table is big, but I wanted a universal table on which I can saw small parts and large-sized sheet materials, plywood, laminated chipboard for cabinet furniture, as well as wooden plates.

Then I turned the obtained sheet, marked it, put the circular saw with raised disk on the sheet, outlined the contour of the saw sole with a pencil, and with a router with a slot cutter I selected the material in the obtained projection of the sole to the depth of about 12 mm. The circular saw blade base is then inserted into the depressions created. Beforehand the handle and the blade guard have been removed from the saw.

Along the contour of the saw sole in the sheet of the table base we made 4 holes for bolts M8. From the top of the base (back) the M8 whisker nuts were installed. The saw bottom is set into a recess and pressed through reinforced washers with bolts M8 to the table base.

Then we loosen mechanism of depth of cut adjustment of saw, we switch on saw to a socket and, pressing a saw, we saw through a table basis to full depth, from a back (working) side of a table we have a disk. Here the most important moment. when installing the saw into the recess not to mix up its direction, in which direction the disk should rotate (disk from the side of the working surface of the table should rotate on itself), I while trying it on, almost got mixed up, well in time noticed. By the way, I used the saw in Sketchup model from 3D Warehouse, and if you look at the photo of my table, the saw drives in SketchUp model (Makita) and in real life (Hitachi) are mirrored, located on different sides of the saw. I found only such model of the saw, it and left it, the main thing is correctly indicated the direction of rotation of the disk. Everyone’s saws are different anyway.

Already like that on the table, you can saw:. place the base of the table on chairs / stools / drawers (I positioned in the workshop with one side on a shelf of a rack, the other on the back of a chair by the wall);. relative to the saw blade, using a long ruler, draw the axial line of the cut.We take a long piece of aluminum angle (or bar, or flat board), place it on the angle relative to the mowing line, fix it to the table with clamps, and we have an improvised temporary parallel stop.

This is how I sawed all the other parts of the table, while it was slowly assembling.

The first thing I decided to saw the cover of the saw for dedusting. For the first time in my life I was able to instantly, without adjusting, get completely identical parts, like twin brothers. Casing. four walls of 10mm plywood, bottom of a piece of fiberboard. Glued everything with PVA and self-tapping screws.

For connection of a vacuum cleaner I made a hole in the bottom corner of the box with bimetal core under the sewer fitting 50 mm. To attach the fitting to the body, I cut the cut of the fitting into sectors, inserted the fitting, heated the sectors and bent them to the wall of the box, then on each sector went small self-tapping screws, gaps on the back side filled with hot melt glue. It is firmly assembled, and from a careless movement of the hose with a vacuum cleaner the fitting will not break out of the body.

To fix the box to the table used metal angles 30×30, as well as 15×30 for the lock. Made flat lugs from cut plywood plates 6 mm dremel, glued them to the table, they are inserted into the corners of the box. On the other side of the box with the help of a metal plate and self-tapping screws a kind of lock is made.

We connect the vacuum cleaner, try it. all dust is inside, it does not fly in the face.

Sawed longitudinal ribs on the table, and glued them to the base with PVA and self-tapping screws. To those same ribs we would also attach the guide profiles of the parallel stop.

Since the surface of the future table must be smooth to slide the workpieces and materials smoothly, and plywood FC 4/4 does not contribute to normal sliding, I had to think of something to cover it. Generally, for such tables usually laminated plywood is used, but we only sell them in huge sheets. And the main idea was to use an existing piece of plywood. I just had a great opportunity to buy a large 4mm-thick pad of PVC foam for advertising and promotion., Printed on one side only, so the clean white back side was perfect as a table liner.

I have to say right away that PVC foam is not the best material for this purpose. I don’t know how long it will last, but it leaves grooves and scratches from the sharp ends of the pieces being passed through. It’s not critical yet and may not be critical at all, maybe in the future I will have to change it or cover the top with a thin sheet of other material. Plexiglas sheet would have been good for this, but I didn’t have it.

For the future carriages and pushers it is necessary to lay in the base of the table guides from an aluminum profile in the form of channel 15x10x1. For the installation in the base, we marked and made with a router with a slot cutter cross grooves for the aluminum profiles. Since we want to put a 4 mm thick PVC sheet on top of the table, the grooves are 6 mm deep.

I cut the PVC sheet into three parts, two parts left and right of the profiles and one part between the profiles. When I put the profiles in the grooves the following problem was detected, or rather it is called a joint. The sheet of the base of the table with a deflection! About 3 mm in the center of the sheet relative to the edges, applied a meter steel ruler, all clearly visible. The sheet of plywood had been sitting for three years in the boiler room, upright against the wall, even though it might have been crooked to begin with. Out of spite, I took an angle grinder, a petal wheel and went outside to fix the deflection by removing the material on the edges. There was a bucket of dust. As much as I had patience. I took it off, but the area is large. The rest of the deflection decided to correct the following way. Since I planned to attach aluminum and PVC sheets with liquid nails Moment MV-100, in the central part of the sheet and grooves, I made a larger portion of glue, with gaps for later shrinkage during leveling. From the edges of the sheet glue applied an even layer. Then put aluminum profiles on the glue in the grooves, and then to the profiles, all three sheets. Took a long aluminum angle 40h40h2 and moving across the table began to align the height in the central part of the sheets and profiles relative to the edges. After passing the profile, checked the gaps and the evenness of the sheets in the transverse, longitudinal and diagonal directions. everything worked. MV-100 after hardening becomes like a stone, respectively, the performance and rigidity of the table have not been lost.

Next we had to make a parallel stop. As the main element of the stop I used an aluminum profile 40x40x2 (which I used for leveling earlier). To improve stiffness, structural weight and ease of installation of subsequent parts, it was decided to glue a wooden bar 30×30 into the profile. I also glued it with MOMENT MV-100. Other parts of the stop was also made of the profile and glued double slats of plywood 40 mm wide.

For the lateral movement and fixation of the support a system of C-shaped steel profile, an oak parquet slider and a square washer on a long M8 bolt was chosen. The head of the bolt was well ground, a square thick molded washer (from the bar fasteners of cable tracks) had a recess, where the head of the bolt was sunk and planted on a two-component epoxy glue.

On the back side of the bolt, which goes through the cross clamping element of the stop, was installed a round handle with an M8 ear nut (the handle also made of plywood directly on the saw blade)

A square washer with sliders winds up with C-profile, relative to which moves the design of the stop, when screwing the knob of the stop we press the square washer to the outer walls of the C-profile and fix the stop relative to the table. The square washer also prevents the bolt from turning in the profile when tightening the handle.

On the reverse side of the table also placed a C-profile, and wanted to make a similar system, but feared that the stop will be heavily wedged when moving, and I need fixing and the reverse side, too, I need flatness stop relative to the axial mowing line from both sides, and with fixing only one point does not always work, where will be flat, and in some position and 2-3 mm, perhaps not ideal C-profile, although it looks flat. I came up with a much simpler design: at the bottom of the C-profile I placed a runner part, with a stud M8 fixed in it, and through the intermediate element and the stop I drilled a hole and brought up the counter part of the stud, on which I planted the other handle with the M8 bit nut. Now screwing the handle I press the slider to the C-profile through the pin and thus fix the far part of the stop in relation to the table.

the work with the stop is as follows:. loosen both knobs on the stop;. move the stop in the right direction;. measure with a square the necessary distance from the stop to the axial mowing line of the cut at the bottom of the stop;. fix the lower part with the handle;. check the distance from the stop to the axial mowing line of the cut at the top of the stop;. fix the upper part with the handle;. you can saw.

To work with parts and workpieces on the table, a simple carriage and a small pusher with slider guides were made.

The carriage and the pusher are made of 16 mm laminated wood chipboard, used aluminum profile 40x40x2 in the pusher. The sliders for the guides were made from oak, cut off thin slats from an oak parquet board. Glued the sliders to the carriages with PVA and extra self-tapping screws. To improve the sliding of the oak slider in the guide aluminum channel, I impregnate the oak laths with spray silicone grease, the wood absorbs it and slides perfectly in the profile without jamming.

The workshop room in the house is very small, so the table should be collapsible (not needed. disassembled), and portable, so you can take it outside to work. That’s why it was decided to make the table legs as removable vertical frames with struts. At the bottom of the table, in the form of plywood slats, were glued counterparts with M8 whisker nuts to fasten the rack frames to the table with bolts with washers.

For the electric connection of the saw I installed right next to the saw a socket, in which the regular mains plug of the saw is plugged in. The socket is connected from the contactor, the contactor is controlled by a block of START/STOP buttons, mounted on a separate plate on the front side of the table. Power the contactor with a separate long cable to the wall socket. The power button on the saw is secured with a cable tie.

To collect dust and sawdust with a vacuum cleaner I also use a homemade cyclone from a bucket, cover and sewer fittings:

What are the problems and what I plan to finish:

The table works very well, you can see what I did on it in my other reviews. For non-professional use is enough. It was easy to make, fast and not expensive. Of course there are much better designs, but they require more time and money. If there are any additional questions/criticism/Комментарии и мнения владельцев/suggestions for improvement, I think everyone would benefit, as the Комментарии и мнения владельцев on mysku are a great treasure trove of knowledge.

Align and lock the machines

Use screw clamps to fasten the extensions to the platform base. Set the machine in place and align it in the middle of the base width. With a long flat bar pressed against the machine’s standard stop, adjust the position of the machine to align the trailing edge of the bar with the trailing edges of the top shelves of E. Make sure that the edges of the strip and the shelves are parallel. Now remove the strip and the extensions. Mark the centers of the mounting holes for fixing the machine, remove the machine and drill holes in the base-platform L. Flare them from underneath and secure the machine with countersunk screws, adding washers and nuts.

To position the tables of both machines at the same height, saw two wooden spacers, the width of which allows you to make mounting holes for the screws that will fasten the machine with the lower table. Cut spacers to a thickness that is equal to the difference in height between the two tables. Now, installing the machine with the low table, make holes. Secure the machine with screws, inserting spacers between it and the base.

Precise direction and safety stop

In order to work on such a stand, you need to make a through kerf, in which the saw blade will walk.

How to make a table for a circular saw using a manual circular saw, the nuances of making your own hands

Handheld circular saws are designed primarily for short cross-cuts, trimming workpieces. Sometimes they are used for cutting boards into planks, both in manual and stationary modes. In stationary mode, the circular saw is turned upside down with the saw blade and fixed in the table or frame. The principle of manual and stationary use differs in that in the first case, the electric saw moves along the workpiece, in. the second vice versa, the workpiece moves relative to the saw blade. That is, a manual circular saw, fixed on the table upside down with the saw blade, turns into a stationary circular machine.

Assembling the table with our own hands

Assembly of the tool can be conventionally divided into work with several of its parts. Its main components include a frame, side extensions, side stops, clamping plates and a base-platform for the saw.

Consider each part in order of importance.

The frame

The frame of the product is best made of metal profile (aluminum or steel), and its section is usually chosen from the existing range in the store. Dimensions of the frame, as fundamental to the table, are conditioned by the free space around, the dimensions of the cutting element and the variety of the product (not movable or mobile).

According to the dimensions of the saw you are considering, in the design of the frame set aside the level of the lower mowing line of the potential kerf and the possibility of changing the position of the saw on the bed.

Side extensions

During the interaction with particularly large materials in the table provide for the installation of lateral expansions of metal, strong plastic sheeting or wood. When machining is completed, they can be lowered laterally on the table thanks to their design.

It is possible to make a model with retractable rather than retractable extensions, for example on a shelf inside the table.

Side brackets

Parallel side thrust pads are attached to the homemade table to ease the milling process.

They are used to install the corner brackets on the crosscutting table.

Clamping plates

As the clamping plates on the table choose a metal profile and equip it with a device for rigid fixation to the surface. Installation of the plates is as follows: one element is placed under the work surface, and the second. above it. Then bolt connection is tightened, firmly squeezing the materials between each other.

Mounting the saw

After assembling the metal frame and assembling the extensions, stops and clamping plates, you can proceed to the final stage. Assembly of the crosscut saw consists of placing it on the base-platform and fastening the parts with screws.

Checking the reliability

The final step is to check the integrity and overall reliability of the facing table.

Check that the frame is stationary, that the roller base, if fitted, and any other swivel mechanism work properly, and that the saw has no difficulty in sawing when plugged in.

The overall reliability of the table is evaluated by means of a test run.

Device of the tool

Trimming saws are small units which are rigidly clamped to workbenches with screw fasteners. The workbench frame is of cast construction and supports the stability of the equipment when processing large workpieces. The basic components of a solid wood facing machine are a handle, electric motor, cutting head and solid base. Based on owner feedback, this tool requires some skill to effectively handle the tasks that arise, and needs careful maintenance.

Completion

Saw out the support rails F to mount the structure on the sawmill. Glue them to the bottom edges of the bottom panel A, leaving a distance between them, corresponding to the thickness of the upper bar of the saw

Sand all parts with 80 grit sandpaper and soften all sharp corners and edges. Remove the sanding dust. If desired, apply a colorless weatherproof coating. (We used two coats of oil varnish.)

Attach the flip-out stops E to the outer supports of the extensions D using M6 x 38 screws with a handwheel, adding washers Use a marker with indelible ink to put a mark on top of each tube at a distance of 75 mm from the end, indicating the maximum extension distance of the extensions. Now put the inner supports D on the tubes Insert the tubes into the corresponding openings of the platform and fasten them with the same handwheel screws, remembering to add the washers.

Finally, place the platform table on the sawing scaffold and mount the end saw in the middle. Drill the mounting holes and secure the machine with suitable fasteners. Start new projects, because now you can comfortably and safely cut boards.

Make a workbench with their own hands is simple enough, with all that workbench will be small. Self-made workbench can replace the collapsible workbenches sold in stores, with all that it will surpass them in strength and durability. Even if something breaks, you just fix it t.к. all made with their own hands.

Initially, this mini workbench is designed to work with parts at a greater height than a large workbench allows. But it can also be attached to an ordinary table. clamping on the table gives the workbench a stability that small workbenches lack. This workbench is quite reliable and easy to make. the workbench in the photo is made of maple, but other hard woods will do.

Bench sizes can be reduced or increased, depending on its purpose, but increasing the size will increase the weight of the workbench and the consumption of materials.

For more compact workbench can be made without feet, and to fix it on the table with clamps, provide special ledges. And then, such a makeshift workbench will be superior to branded folding workbenches, not only in stability and durability, but also compactness. The main thing that after fixing the workbench to the table, the vise must be over the edge of the table, which will allow clamping long boards (etc.) in the vise.п.) as shown in the first photo.

Vise allows to clamp the workpiece in different ways. The workbench is equipped with holes on the lid (workbench board) and in a vise for fixing parts on the lid with wedges.

Tool set-up

Trimming saws are small-sized devices that are rigidly mounted on workbenches by means of screw fasteners. The workbench bed is molded and supports the stability of the equipment when processing large workpieces. As part of the stationary wood facing machine, you can find such mandatory elements as the handle, electric motor, cutting head and a solid base. If we proceed from the reviews of owners, this tool requires certain skills to effectively perform the tasks that arise, as well as needing careful maintenance.

Choosing a saw

To choose the right saw, you need to answer a few basic questions.

Yes, you can choose the first machine you find. But then you do not know whether you can cut metal with such a saw, and how long the chosen saw will last. The cheapest models even for home use is also not an option.

• Scope of application. If you need a crosscut saw for occasional, infrequent metal work, choose a model with a standard set of features. With it you can perform the necessary operations, not complicated in configuration of cuts. For serious work, only a saw from the category of semi-professional or professional machines is suitable.
• Safety. Look closely at how the blade guard is designed. Many handsaws made by hand have practically no protection available. Although the factory-made ones often have some tolerances. So when choosing a machine, make sure the guard fully covers the blade during operation and when the saw is at rest.
• Dimensions. Lifting heavy crosscut saws will be a problem, you will get tired quickly. Large metal saw models are usually more expensive because they have more power.
• Level of ergonomics. In any power tool store you can get a machine tool, a metal saw, try it with your own hands. Make sure that the tool is convenient in use, the design suits you personally. Each master has its own requirements in this regard, so before buying is necessarily recommended to hold the device.
• Size of discs. The cut-off saw requires a set of discs for work on metal and other materials. It is not recommended to use a disc with a diameter less than 200 millimeters. Its dimensions have a direct impact on the penetration depth of the saw into the metal, as well as the cutting width. The wider the parts you cut, the wider the disc needed. But specific requirements may apply, depending on the situation.
• The bed and the swivel block. The cut-off machine must have all elements of high quality. So check them for defects, backlash and other likely defects.