Stihl 180 Flowing Oil Bottom
We mastered the Stihl 181 chainsaw. In general, it started up, but prefers to work only at high speeds, but it does not go at idle at all, we decided to wait with the service, we think to read and solve the problem ourselves. By the way, you have to pull the rope 4-5 times then only growls. Tightened the idle screw many times does not help. Can someone tell me something about the case? It stalls when you release the gas key. Then it is very difficult to start.
Run according to the instructions? The handle down, up to six jerks can be a long-standing cold engine, then sneezes. Move the handle to the second position from the bottom. one jerk, it should work at high speeds and immediately press the gas and goes to idle. Warm and even slightly warmed up. handle in the first position, one. two jerks, will work idling. If you raise the saw by the start handle, it should lower under its chainsaw. Perhaps due to a lack of oil in the engine, idling stopped working, a piston replacement is needed.
No oil enters the Stihl MS 181 chainsaw chain. What should I do?
Most likely your oil pump does not work. Disassemble the chainsaw body, there you will see a cam pump. There are several reasons for the problem. Bursting the pump housing, determined simply. Press the cam several times and see where the oil is going. Air suction or kink of the tube is determined visually. Personally, I have encountered only such problems so far. If oil flows in the area of the sprocket cover, this is normal: it throws on the cover during operation and flows gradually. But if it flows from under the saw body. most likely also a hose. Only in this case just pulled out. he is not fixed there, just slipped.
I bought a new chainsaw. I forgot to pour oil to lubricate the chain, so I worked on her tank of gasoline. What can happen and what will work without oil affect? Does this affect the engine itself?
Working without oil for the chain leads to wear of the chain, saw bar, sprocket, resulting in increased engine load. Short-term operation with increased load should not lead to engine damage, but there is no 100% guarantee!
Saw 3 years of operation. began not to lose momentum, after the winding roars like mad. It cannot be adjusted (screw on the case), the carburetor removed, disassembled and washed, the problem did not solve. Saws normally, enough power. Due to the high speed, the tank flies in seconds. What could be?
Check the throttle cable, see what prevents the shutter from closing. Maybe the return spring has slipped, the breakdown is most likely a trifle.
He took off the muffler and saw a not soot on the piston skirt. how could he be there? The saw worked 10 liters. Can skip rings?
Normal phenomenon. It’s not that soot, but such a brownish coating is formed, moreover, unevenly on the surface. In general, it’s okay.
Chainsaw Stihl MS 181. Yesterday, after a short longitudinal sawing of a thin branch, the chain began to work actively at idle. Without thinking twice, I decided that it was necessary to adjust the carburetor. But there was a problem, the adjusting screw does not go counterclockwise, in the opposite direction. What could it be? For 4 years of use, the carburetor has never been regulated. Could there be a clutch problem?
Most likely. dirt in the carburetor. First, sawing along the transverse chain at the most is a more quickly dull chain. Clutch springs soften from clutch overheating. Secondly, what kind of connection between the clutch springs and the carburetor adjusting screw that refuses to rotate is unclear. Just in case, inspect the clutch, chips could accumulate inside it, this could also cause idling.
Video: Stihl 180 Flowing Oil Bottom
How to determine when it is time to change the tire on a Stihl 181 chainsaw?
The main criteria. the depth of the groove, the shape of the groove and the condition of the tire spacers, as well as the wear of the teeth of the driven sprocket when the chain on the toe of the tire begins to touch the spacers. And that’s not counting "accidents". mechanical deformation, for example, after clamping a tire in a cut, loose pieces of spacers (due to tire overheating or untimely deburring on it), a jammed sprocket bearing jamming, if it is not possible to change it or such a replacement in this particular case does not make sense.
And how does the Stihl 181 saw differ from the 180th model?
181st, in comparison with old models. a lot of external differences. Another suspension. much softer than the old one, otherwise the air filter is made, the cover for servicing the engine and carburetor box is opened differently, the tire is mounted on one hairpin, Well, inside. The brand new latest generation 2-mix engine. Everything is more complicated and, accordingly, it turns out more expensive.
How to identify break-in marks? Enlighten. And how to prove that the chainsaw was running in? So, in theory, any damage to the engine can be declared not a warranty case.
If there are seizures on the piston and cylinder of the chainsaw and at the same time, the crankcase is tight and the adjustment is not broken. This will never be a warranty case. If the adjustment is broken. also. No need to meddle where not ordered. But if, say, a sealed gland turned out to be. It will be a factory marriage. Or a crankcase connector without sealant (or gaskets if needed). also factory marriage. Or the bearing crumbled and torn the piston separator apart. under warranty, we will replace piston, bearings, and oil seals. The ignition module is out of order. a guarantee, if it was not broken by a foreign object falling under the starter. Well, and the like. So, in fact, a guarantee. This is a free repair in case of a factory defect. Refusal to operate the product without a manufacturing defect due to a reason not related to a violation of the operating rules is not possible by definition.
I work with this tool. Very often chains break. Why it happens?
There may be several reasons for a broken chain: 1. Lack of lubrication. rupture occurs due to overheating of the circuit. 2. Weak stretch. tearing occurs due to wear of the connecting links. 3. Deformation of the saw bar (improper maintenance; improper operation). tearing occurs due to wear of the drive links and jamming of the chain, etc.
I have a Stihl MS 181 chainsaw. When sawing firewood, the saw leads to the left. I thought the chain was dumb. He ground it on special equipment in the workshop: all the same, the effect is the same, again leads to the left. Why is that?
Sharpening the chain. This is the right first step to solving your problem. But if nothing has changed after sharpening, it is necessary to further understand, namely. check guide rail.
In the saw after production, does the mixture remain in the carburetor? Only there is no primer (the remaining mixture is not visible), and the carburetor membranes deteriorate? Or am I reasoning incorrectly?
The primer is in the last link, from which the mixture goes to the tank. Do this: drain the fuel from the tank into the canister, then tighten the neck of the tank and turn the saw so that the cap of the primer is at the top and pump it to empty. After again drain the fuel from the tank, what remained in the primer. After starting on the remaining fuel in the carburetor and all there is no more fuel. The primer system is as follows, it pumps gas through the carburetor and back into the tank. From the primer, gasoline does not enter the carburetor. When you start the saw, it turns out like a return line in a diesel engine. The gas in the tank ends, the engine stalls, when you press the primer, the gas from it should go only to the tank, but not to the carburetor. There was gas in the primer, they rocked it and it was empty.