STIHL ms 180 fuel filter replacement

STIHL chain saw, how to change the fuel filter

A chainsaw is not that complicated a device. But in the case of detection of malfunction must have at least the basic knowledge to find and remove the resulting defect.

Let’s look at the main chain saw faults, find out what they’re caused by, also let’s review the main steps of troubleshooting.

The most important thing, before starting the repair, is the correct identification of the fault. And the circumstances of inoperability of each element can be several. Therefore, before you start disassembling the chainsaw, you should try to find what is the reason for the failure.

How do you keep your hands and feet free to operate the chain saw?

In other units in most cases malfunctions occur due to failure of the brake mechanism, lubrication system, clutch operation, tire, etc.

Let’s look at both groups of defects, so you can find the cause of failure on their own, if necessary, without going to the repair shop.

Engine trouble

In the work of the motor, in most cases, the following deficiencies are observed:

To find the cause of the problem, you need to analyze the probable causes in order of exclusion. Let’s walk down this chain, so you know how to find a defect in a chainsaw if it occurs.

Malfunctions of the chainsaw ignition system

Problems in the ignition system in the majority of cases are the cause of failure of the motor gasoline tool. That is why it is necessary to begin search of defects from it.

Inspect the spark plug. To do this, carefully remove the high-voltage wire from the head, and then unscrew the spark plug from the socket, using a special wrench.

If the spark plug is wet, it means that there is an overabundance of fuel. In most cases, the excessive amount of fuel associated with the wrong adjustment of the carburetor or ignition system malfunctions.

The spark plug should be thoroughly cleaned with a dry cloth and dried. It is also necessary to drain the cylinder, close the fuel supply and run the starter a couple of times to remove the excess fuel consistency.

After these steps you must put the spark plug back in place, open the fuel supply and try again.

If the candle noticeable lot of dark carbon deposits, it usually indicates a malfunction in the fuel supply. a violation of the ratio of gasoline / oil, bad oil or need to adjust the carburetor.

In this case, you need to clean the spark plug with a needle or a sharp needle from the accumulated carbon deposits, clean the electrodes with a skin-null until an iron sheen appears and reinstall. In all this it is necessary to pay attention to the tightness of the spark plug gasket.

If the chainsaw won’t start you need to check the spark plugs. With the cap on the high-voltage wire leaning on the skirt of the plug to the cylinder and pull the starter, as shown in the photo below:

If a blue spark leaps from a distance of 2-3 mm, then everything is fine. If the spark is only 0,5. 1 mm away, there is probably a problem with the ignition system. If there is no spark, you need to check the high-voltage cable with a probe. Maybe there is a wire break in it.

If all the performed actions were not successful, try to replace the spark plug with a previously serviceable one and try to start the chainsaw again.

Also the lack of spark may be due to a gap between the ignition module and the flywheel magnet. The gap should be 0.2 mm. The necessary clearance is set with a 0.2 mm spacer between the flywheel and the ignition module.

Gasoline repair. Changing the fuel filter on a STIHL STIHL 180 chain saw

How to correctly change the fuel filter on your STIHL MS 180 chain saw in this video. For example, if you use a battery charger with a timer, it can be used to charge the battery.

How to remove the fuel filter on a chain saw

How to get to the fuel filter and replace or clean, All for you dear friends.

Chainsaw fuel system malfunction

If everything is OK with the ignition system, go further and check the fuel system of the chainsaw.

If the fuel system isn’t working properly, it’s usually one of the following things:

  • fuel filter is dirty;
  • The hole in the tank lid is clogged;
  • lack of fuel consistency.

Disconnect the fuel hose from the carburetor and check to see if fuel is leaking. If fuel is flowing freely, there is nothing wrong. Cap and filter are working properly. If the fuel mixture does not leak at all or leaks only slightly, clean the cap hole (breather plug) with a needle.

Pull out the fuel filter through the filler opening with a hook (you can bend it out of wire) together with the absorbent hose. The fuel tank must be emptied beforehand. Disconnect and clean the filter or replace it with a new one.

It is recommended that you renew the fuel filter every 3 months. As for the missing amount of fuel consistency, coming from the carburetor to the cylinder, then the reason may lie in the violation of the ratio of fuel and air mixed in the carburetor. The main causes: clogged air filter, clogged carburetor or screen-filter.

Of course, that during the repair of chainsaws requires cleaning of the air filter, as it gets dirty quite quickly. The amount of air flowing into the carburettor is reduced. The fuel mixture at the output is excessively enriched.

Dirt filter must be removed with extreme care to prevent dirt from falling off and falling into the carburettor. The filter should be cleaned or washed in water and detergent. After that dry and put it back.

Carburetor malfunction

If all of the above steps are unsuccessful, the carburetor may be the cause of the malfunction.

If so, check and adjust the filter. However, if you have no experience in performing such work, you should find through friends or through an ad a specialist who knows how to do it. If they don’t, you risk losing your saw. The carburetor is a device consisting of many parts of very small size, which if unskilled disassembly can simply fall out and get lost.

Muffler failure on chain saw

It often happens that during prolonged use, the walls of the exhaust pipe are covered with sludge, which prevents the free release of exhaust gases.

In this case, remove the muffler (if possible) and wash it with detergents, then dry it thoroughly with a hair dryer.

WARNING! Carbon Monoxide contains carcinogens. During dry-cleaning it can get into your lungs, which is a danger to your health.

The cause of fouling is usually an improper gasoline-oil ratio or the use of low-quality, incompatible oil.

Read the chain saw operator’s manual carefully to prevent this from happening again.

Faults in the cylinder-piston group

Wear of the cylinder and piston, scratches and scuffing on their surface, wear of the piston rings or crankshaft bearings. these are very serious problems. This leads to a loss of pressure in the cylinder. This can make it very difficult to start the engine.

To check the condition of the cylinder and piston rod without disassembly, proceed as follows. Remove the muffler and look through the open window. Part of the cylinder surface will be visible. To get information on the condition of the cylinder head, compression in the engine is measured with a compressometer, which should be installed in the spark plug hole. Turn the crankshaft (may be with the starter) and measure the gauge. Compressor reading should be at least 8-9 kgf/ (or 0.8-0.9 MPa).

If you don’t have a compressometer, you can gauge the compression just by plugging the spark plug hole with your finger and yanking the starter, as shown in the photo below:

If there is compression, you can feel your finger sucking in.

The engine could also be suffering from low compression due to caked piston rings and piston wear and tear.

Faults in the chain lubrication system

Every owner’s manual mentions the need to check the condition of the chain lubrication system.

The system usually malfunctions due to clogged channels that carry lubricant. If oil leaks only slightly, the engine can be shut down. But if the oil leakage is big enough, you need to check the tightness of the pipe connections to the pump fittings. You can eliminate the leakage with sealant or by replacing the tubes.

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You should also pay your attention to the condition of the oil pump. If there are cracks in its body, it must be replaced.

Chain brake malfunction

If the chain brake does not work, it could be because the brake band is contaminated by grease or sawdust and wood shavings or the underbelly.

You can fix the problem by cleaning the dirt and replacing the brake belt.

As you can see, there are many causes for chain saw malfunctions. To keep your chain saw in good working order, follow the recommended procedures in the Instruction Manual and perform periodic maintenance.

If the chainsaw won’t start

If you believe the experts, with this problem first of all you just need to open and close the cap on the gas tank. After that, you need to vent the combustion chamber, as well as take out and dry the plugs. These actions are sufficient to start and run the tool. If the malfunction persists, look for a different cause.

  • Fuel supply affects respooling. Therefore, if it is clogged, a vacuum will form in the fuel tank and the saw will not start. Repairing the breather plug is easy. clean it with a needle.
  • The Calm 180 chain saw may not work because of a broken cylinder. If the cylinder is chipped or bumpy, this is the cause.
  • If the tool does not start, briefly holds power, or trays immediately after powering on, the muffler may be the cause. It can be clogged by any deposits that occur during operation in the exhaust process.
  • A bad start may be due to a faulty starter. To see this, remove the cover from the carburetor and twist the special screen behind the drum. If the contact wire has left the starter, it should be attached with a blowtorch. If the problem is an oil leak, the starter is simply wiped down with a rag.

Failure of the ignition system

If the equipment has failed, it is necessary to check the ignition system, and more specifically, the spark plug itself. If the spark plug is dry, this means that no fuel is entering the cylinder, and therefore the cause is not. If there are traces of fuel mixture on the spark plug, it is necessary to check the correct operation of the carburetor, as well as its adjustment. The spark plug should be wiped and dried, then cut off the mixture and turn on the ignition. These actions will help to remove excess fuel mixture and air out the combustion chamber. After that you can put the spark plug back in place and try to start the saw again.

If there is soot on this part, the reason is sometimes the use of low-quality oil. Another reason may be the wrong proportions of fuel mixture and oil. In this case, the spark plug will need to be cleaned of fouling, rinsed and the electrodes cleaned. Note that the distance between the electrodes should not be more than 0,65 mm.

If there is soot on the spark plug, check to see if there is an ignition. To do this, the ignition cable must be secured to the spark plug, and the nut with the cylinder is fastened with pliers. After that start the starter. If there is no spark. change the spark plug. If the replacement does not work, check the wiring and all the connections.

Another cause of failure may be a failed flywheel. To unscrew it you will need a special wrench, because it is screwed very tight.

To prevent the shaft from turning, the plug must be removed and the piston retainer inserted through the hole that is formed. In no case can you block the flywheel with a power screwdriver inserted between the ribs and housing, because the flywheel blades can not withstand the load and break off.

After blocking the piston unscrew the nut. When it loosens a little, its top is level with the tip of the shaft, at this point you can put a metal spike on the nut and hit it. That way you can easily remove the handwheel from the shaft.

Assembly of STIHL MS180

In this video we show you how to change the piston group on your STIHL chain saw

After the piston is locked in the cylinder, the flywheel nut can be unscrewed. The threads in the nut are standard, so turn it to the left. Do not remove the nut all the way off, just unscrew it until its upper edge is flush with the shaft extension, then tip the soft metal mallet onto the nut and pound it hard. So the flywheel pops off the shaft and can be removed without any tools.

How to correctly operate and maintain the STIHL MS 180 chain saw

STIHL MS 180. one of the most popular and budget-friendly chainsaws from the German brand STIHL. Like any gasoline-powered machine, this saw needs periodic maintenance. You should have the throttle trigger checked by an Authorized Service Center. If you are using a chainsaw for the first time it may be useful to know how to prepare the fuel mix and start the engine. And of course you have to learn how to tell a genuine STIHL MS 180 from a fake.

How to start the STIHL MS 180?

  • Hold down the gas button and move the choke control lever to the lowest position
  • Pull the starter grip several times until the first “pop” occurs (when the chain saw starts and then shuts down immediately) and then move the choke control one position up.
  • Pull the starter grip again until the chain saw starts.
  • Depress and release the throttle trigger once.

How to prepare the fuel mix for the STIHL MS 180

The quality of the fuel mixture, consisting of engine oil and gasoline, affects the service life and engine performance of any power tool, including chain saws. After buying the MS 180 many people ask what gasoline is suitable for this model. The manufacturer recommends petrol with a minimum octane rating of 90. Therefore, the tool can be filled with gasoline AI-92. However, experienced users do not recommend using AI-95, as at domestic gas stations the fuel of this brand often contains additives harmful to the motors of garden gasoline equipment. Recommended oil to gasoline ratio of 1:50, t.е. per 1l. Gasoline 20ml. is small. Only branded oil for 2-stroke engines is recommended.

What kind of chain to use on the STIHL MS 180?

In order for the chainsaw to cut wood efficiently and for the engine not to be overloaded, it is necessary to choose the right type of chain, in particular. For example, the MS 180 is compatible with chains with pitch ⅜ inch and a drive link thickness of 1.3 mm, or 1.1 mm if you use a bar with matching grooves. Note also the length of the bar. if it is 35 cm, a chain with 50 links will do, if 40 cm. With 55 links.

Then it is time to choose which brand of chain saw you want to buy. Because the MS 180. It is one of the most popular models, you can find many proposals on the market, but not all of them are of high quality. That’s why it’s better to buy original STIHL chains, for example:

Quality saw headset, which is also compatible with MS 180, is also produced by American manufacturer Oregon. If you have a chain for extended periods of use, for example, choose the Oregon 91vxl050ER.

How to spot a fake STIHL MS 180

Due to its characteristics, this chainsaw is loved by many Russian users, which is used by some unscrupulous sellers. In order to be sure of a chain saw’s authenticity, it should only be bought from a genuine STIHL outlet. If it is not possible or if you want to save money, many people go to the market or buy “by hand”. However, such a purchase can quickly disappoint with its unreliability. To be able to tell a fake MS 180 from a real one, you need to look for the following parts:

  • Muffler serial number. Counterfeit models have no serial number engraved on the muffler.
  • Tank cap. The fake unit has a fuel cap that is not secured in any way.
  • Spark plug and spark plug cap. The original models use NGK (Japan) and Bosch (Germany) spark plugs, and they are covered with frosted caps. Counterfeits, on the other hand, are equipped with spark plugs from other manufacturers and glossy caps.


Muffler mounting check.

Spark plug inspection.

Checking the controls.

Checking the cutting set and sharpening the chain.

Как заменить топливный фильтр Stihl ms 180. Replacement of the Stihl MS 180 fuel filter

Starting the saw and checking the rpm.


Brand name “Imperial Tooling” was patented in 2003. The same year the first retail store opened.

Dismantling the STIHL 180 chain saw

Good afternoon, everyone!A long time have not written anything in the blog, that was busy (work and dacha (a house in the country) and still decided to dismantle the shed and build a banya), but here’s the reason. a chainsaw STIHL saw and stalled Truth is because I forgot to fill it up, but we are not looking for easy ways. I opened the air filter to see the dirt and after cleaning the saw did not start Thought that maybe the carburetor got. should disassemble Well, thought that the tank is full, I tightened the chain and oil to the chain refueled.

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I’ve gone a little off topic Let’s disassemble. Before you remove the side cover from the ignition, remove the covers from the fuel tank and oil.

Remove the ignition coil by unscrewing a couple of screws.

Next is the disassembly of the air intake and carburetor

Then remove the fuel tank the hose was removed when dismantling the carburetor.Next, you should remove the shaft (I’ll call it a shaft on and off the chain saw (because I do not know the correct name)) on one side up, then pull the other end to the side.

After you should remove the muffler, also unscrewing the two nuts, I forgot to make a photo.

You can begin to remove the handles that hold the whole structure, and to do this, you need to remove the three plugs with a screwdriver

And begin to remove the clutch, and for this you need to remove the stopper (I will review his drum with a chain sprocket) do not know the correct name.

In order to continue to remove the clutch need to remove the nut, and to do this it is necessary to lock the crankshaft.I did the following. Unscrewed the plug and in this hole stuck a string with knots pre-turning the rotor and looked at the hole removed from the muffler, that the piston stood in the bottom dead center

The STIHL 180 chain saw control key is broken, how to fix it?

A frequent problem with STIHL chain saws, that is caused by the operator, is the malfunctioning of the engine control mechanism. precisely, when the seat for the control lever is broken due to its design features, to solve this problem will require replacement of the saw body, which is difficult enough to do on your own. Let’s look at the algorithm of the repair with our own hands, which is used to replace the chainsaw housing:

  • The body is released from the handle assembly;
  • Removing the starter, to do this from the fuel and oil tank covers and unscrew the starter mounting screws;
  • Next, a piston stop is installed through the spark plug hole in the cylinder, the flywheel is unscrewed and removed from the engine shaft;
  • The drive sprocket is removed and the clutch is unscrewed;
  • Unscrew the two 8 mm nuts that hold the air filter housing and carburetor, the modules are removed from their seats;
  • The next step is unscrewing the 4 screws that hold the engine to the housing. In the body of a chainsaw STIHL 180 in the place of installation of engine mounting screws mounted special sleeves, which can independently fall out and lose.
  • The last point is the removal of the oil pump, carburetor rubber elbow and fuel and oil tanks.

Parts should be installed in the new housing in reverse order. In parallel with the elimination of the main fault, you can check the rubber elbow carburetor, part exhausted its life and lost elasticity, to be replaced.

Service of STIHL MC 180 chain saws

You may lubricate the chain sprocket bearing on the STIHL MS 180 chain saw with Lithol-24?

Probably not the best option, but it can handle the task well enough load there, and the bearing only works when the crankshaft is turned, and the chain stands. So you can.

When you increase the gas supply, the chainsaw begins to stall. Idle speed is fine. Already replaced the air filter, gas filter, blew out the breathers saw all the hoses do not seem to have a crack. What could be the problem??

It could be a mixture misfire or it could be air in the mixture. Have you turned the “H” and “L” screws on the carburetor? ? Screw L may have been turned too far, try turning it counterclockwise. The STIHL MS 180 chain saw has only an idle speed adjustment because the carburetor is factory-set and sealed. Idle is adjusted so that the chain does not rotate at minimum rpm, or by the tachometer. Also could be a clogged fuel pump filter, the fuel hose itself, or the air filter.

No power on STIHL 180 power saw, how to fix?

Clean the filters, clean the muffler grill and adjust the carburetor.

Tell me if there should be a free stroke on the piston group on a new Stihl?

The stroke shouldn’t be quite free, because there should be compression.

How to correctly install the sprocket stop on your chain saw?

Screw in the screws on the outside of the chainsaw housing.

Bought this tool. How many tanks of fuel do you need to use during the running-in period??

There is no need to run the machine in. prohibited! Run at full throttle with a partial load of about 3. 5 refills. During initial operation: Do not run a brand-new chain saw at high RPM and not load it until the fuel tank has been filled a third time so that it does not need to be overloaded during the initial break-in period. During break-in, all moving parts must rub against each other. there is increased friction in the drive train. The engine reaches its maximum power after 5 to 15 refuelings.

The trigger on the STIHL MS 180 chain saw jams. When sawing and pulling the trigger in an upright position. It’s okay, but if you turn the saw to 90 degrees. Sawing wood, when I half-press the trigger it jams and won’t go on, if I put the saw upright and half-press the throttle and then turn the saw and saw, it throttles all the way to the end, it feels like something is catching somewhere. Help fix?

Diluted petrol by mistake with oil in the ratio of 1 ml. 250 ml oil. gasoline. The saw ran for about 20 minutes intermittently on this mixture, this was the first start of the saw, then the normal mixture was poured. After that the machine started normally when hot and on the first try. Something may have malfunctioned or burrs may have appeared on the piston, for example?

If the saw is running correctly, nothing is probably wrong. Only an autopsy could show the effects of running out of oil.

How to start your STIHL 180 chain saw for the first time?

The control lever on the saw (the black lever on the throttle trigger side of the saw) has a total of 4 positions. Let’s start from top to bottom: a) “0” STOP. STOP (stop) the chain saw! b) “I”-operating position (no-load position). The lever is in this position when working (sawing). The warmed up starting position. d) Cold start position. When the saw is cold place the lever in position “D” (in this position the lever may be set only with the throttle trigger pulled), pull sharply the starter rope until the saw starts and stops. Push the lever to “C” position. pull the starter rope hard until the saw starts. Saw starts and runs at full throttle. keep it in that position for 10 seconds at the most. pull the starter rope sharply until the saw starts and stalls (that’s when the saw is warmed up) and then move the lever to the “B” position (you can move it to the “B” position only by pulling the throttle trigger). The lever “jumps” to this position, no need to jerk it with your finger trying to get it to this position. To stop the saw, we move the lever to position “A”.

Now the STIHL MS180 is a year and a half old chainsaw. Some problems appear: Unstable starting. The saw sometimes stalls at idle when starting, sometimes stalls when the throttle is depressed. It kind of stalls. When working sideways (starter up), you hear some suspicious gurgling noises, very similar to those you hear when slowly pulling the starter cord away from the intake air. The clutch is a problem, too. at the slightest wedge the chain stopped, but the saw would not stop. Took it apart, decided to clean it better at the same time. Started with the clutch. drive sprocket was covered in oil inside and outside, you could see the ring strip that the clutch was riding on. Smooth as a mirror, washed it with acetone without being too much of a fanatic (so it wouldn’t leak anywhere). Then I checked the piston. took the muffler off and unscrewed the spark plug, showed fine scuffing all around. I will describe them in detail. not deep, mirrored narrow strips, all around the perimeter of the cylinder, along the depth. Deeper than the honing (it is clearly visible) on the piston scuffing similar, of course I can only speak of the state of the surface opposite the exhaust. The piston is fine. bottom is uniform black sludge, in one place it is loose from the edge. You can see the shiny metal of the piston. The compression is there, the rings are there. when pulling the cord is quite noticeable periodic resistance, I have not measured yet. Started to think what’s the reason. and i remembered that last year i uprooted a lilac and unknowingly sawed down a fairly thick trunk with soil inside (it was rotten out and ants moved in). the dust was evidently sucked under the filter. I unscrewed the air filter and in the inner channel (before the choke) found a lot of fine wood dust. 1. How do I adjust the idle speed correctly myself?? 2. Does it make sense to wash the clutch or just replace it?? (But the chain always has oil all over it). 3. How bad are these scuffs? I understand there will be some on any working chainsaw. the question is depth and quantity? Or am I wrong? 4. How do sawdust and dirt get under the filter?? The filter itself is second-to-last, with an even squeezed mark around the perimeter from the top cover, before removing the filter I always gently plugged the inlet opening with a piece of clean cloth.nothing could get in.

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Everything is described in detail in the manual. And it will be an adjustment of idle and, this model carburetors are not adjustable in our Russian sense of the word. But it is necessary to change all filters, air and fuel. 2. No. The filter has no effect if the wear of the sprocket is not great, but the bearing can be replaced, though it is strong enough, it only needs to be lubricated. 3. these are not scuffs, but small scratches of a couple of microns depth, it is not a big deal, it is a natural phenomenon, especially according to your statements the compression is normal. 4. Even on larger chainsaws, where the adjoining band is silicone and the pressure device is powerful enough, fine dust gets under the filter anyway, and otherwise the filter would be clogged within 4 to 6 hours of operation.

When starting up the MS 180 motor saw, it runs at high rpm. The reason is not in the carburettor. The gas does not come off. What is the cause of the problem??

May not be airtight, there is air infiltration through the seals.

Left-hand cutting links “eat up” the rear bevel very quickly. What is the reason? Right-hand cutting is about half as slow. In the end, the chain breaks. STIHL 180 chainsaw, STIHL chain, new and sharpened regularly, lubrication, chain tension. moves freely by hand, but no slack, new guide bar, drive sprocket. new. Approximate sawing volume is 8 m3 in logs. This problem is constant

This problem occurs when the drive sprocket is worn, the bar is worn unevenly (the bar must be flipped after each chain readjustment), the cutting tooth is not the same length or the sharpening angles are not correct.

What is the difference between MS181 and MS181/C gasoline chainsaw?? Only MS181C-BE is available on manufacturer’s website.

MS181C-VE C comfort included: B. quick chain tensioner, E.ErgoStart starter.

On the tool, the tensioner pulls the chain by itself when not running for long periods of time that the motor can’t even crank?

chainwheel, clutch cup, or loose tire may be badly worn.

The chain on my MC 180 chain saw doesn’t lubricate. what do I do??

Clogged oil filter, oil line, or failed oil pump.

Is it possible to install a longer bar on this model??

The MS-180 has 30 to 40 cm long bars, I could use a longer one, but it would put more strain on the engine and reduce the engine life!

stihl, fuel, filter, replacement

Today my chainsaw caught a wedge. Disassembly showed that the top compression ring on the piston broke and one of the shards got between the piston and the cylinder wall and made a deep groove in the cylinder. On the piston itself, the splinter was imprinted in such a way that it could not be removed. I understand that the piston and piston rings as well as the cylinder must be replaced. Hence the questions: Does it make sense to repair? Isn’t it going to be financially useless?? Are there any cylinders, pistons, etc., available separately? д?Is the piston assembled with the connecting rod or is it separate?? Is it difficult to replace the pistons?? (knock out the pin and put it back in place by replacing the piston? What else is worth replacing once you get this far? (bearings, oil seals). Are there any subtleties in the assembly? (this will be the first time I’ve ever built a 2-stroke, assuming I can find the parts.).

The piston comes with: Cylinder, piston, piston rings, piston pin, retaining rings (maybe one). You must also purchase the crankshaft oil seals for replacement. they must be replaced even if they look good and undamaged. Well, you will also need a high temp silicone sealant. Do not apply any sealant to the perimeter of the glands when installing them in the crankcase. they seal themselves. If you buy the original piston, the repair becomes almost impractical. A couple thousand cheaper than a new saw. Now there are a lot of “non-native” pistons available at a price noticeably lower than the original.

I bought my brother a STIHL MS180 chainsaw. They started it up in the store in front of us, briefly told us the main nuances. When I got home, before I had time to finally assemble the chainsaw (put on a tire, pour in oil), my brother decided to start the machine while I was away. He started it, but he forgot to take the brake off. While I had time to run up, the chainsaw idled for about a minute on the brake, but he accelerated to full speed four times. Smoke and odor on the right side came out a little (probably from the clutch). Do you know if we killed it seriously and what to expect in the future??

Keep working and don’t worry. It’s not that delicate a tool, the chain will jam in the cut more than once.

I’ve got a STIHL ms 180 chain saw. Original. Bought it three years ago. Recently, several times I ran into a nail, but the saw did not stall, while the chain stands. Now even with a small bite when you are cutting clean wood the chain sticks, but the saw does not stop. I understand that the clutch is slipping, what is the best course of action? Change the clutch? wash it? or you can rub the sliding surfaces for a better grip?

Maybe the clutch got greasy over time. You could try taking the cup off, cleaning it and wiping the inside with gasoline. And the outer surface of the clutch weights itself to wipe with gasoline. After that, try to see how much difference it makes in operation. Actually, the roughness of the friction surfaces there should be pretty decent.

After three years of ruthless use, the drive sprocket is worn out. It’s been cut up real bad. Tire’s worn out. The chain set is also worn out and starting to tear. I want to change everything, tire, chain and sprocket. I bought everything but the sprocket. Maybe someone can tell me briefly how to remove the sprocket?

use a screwdriver to pry off the locking washer (at the very end of the crankshaft), but don’t let it fly off. Remove the shaped washer, remove the clutch cup. If it won’t go by hand, hook the sprocket with pliers and pry it off (there’s probably dirt inside the cup and it’s in the way of prying). Put a new cup, pre-lubricate the bearing with any grease. But it is necessary to get the slit on the inner edge of the cup on the wire drive for the oil pump. I usually throw the cup on the crankshaft and turn it sharply, like a spinner. It will jingle and kind of fall in a little bit. So, the leash is in the slot. And put a shaped washer, and fasten the stopper in the groove of the crankshaft. If it’s not going by hand, repair the needle valve. Can get the rocker arm stuck on the axle, can get the needle stuck in the shaft, can’t hold the needle itself.

I can’t get the piston and rings into the cylinder. Any secrets??

There is a “latch” on the piston, make sure the slot on the ring fits into it and you will be fine. There have to be two piston rings. They’re thin, 1.2 millimeters. Also, if you only change the rings and the piston is old, check the piston grooves for fouling. If there is a fouling. The piston is difficult to insert, sometimes. it is impossible.

Determine the presence of fuel and its supply.

first make sure that there is fuel mixture in the tank of a chainsaw that won’t start and that it is pumping correctly into the carburettor. With a full tank, check how the mixture flows through the fuel line. Disconnect the fuel system tube from the carburetor and try to pump. In the case of a complete order, when pumped up, the gasoline will be jerky in accordance with the standards set by the manufacturer. Weak or no fuel supply can be a consequence: