Reviews of popular garden equipment ~ lawnmowers, trimmers, brushcutters, brushcutters ~ on ARKHENO.COM Tips and solutions to possible problems in operation
Many, having developed a factory line on a newly acquired trimmer, try to rewind a new one, but they cannot, because they do not know how to wind the line onto the reel spool (bobbin). It seems that there is an instruction, but it still doesn’t work out. Let’s try to deal with this issue in this article.
So, to rewind the fishing line, you need, for starters, to remove the reel from the trimmer – it will be more convenient. The removal method will depend on the type of trimmer.
Remove the coil from the trimmer
On small electric trimmers with the bottom position of the engine (when it is when working near the ground), the coil usually has two keys on its sides. We click on them and disconnect one half of the coil body from the second, which remains on the trimmer. Together with the first half, the inner part is taken out, on which the fishing line is directly wound. When parsing, be careful: there is a spring inside that can fly out and get lost.
On electric and petrol trimmers with a curved bar (it is still not possible to put a knife on such trimmers), you need to grab the coil body with one hand, and with the second hand you need to start turning the lamb on it. It is he who fastens the coil to the trimmer bar. Having unscrewed the lamb, carefully remove the entire coil, being careful not to lose the spring inside.
On electric and petrol trimmers with a straight rod and a gearbox at its end (in addition to fishing line, you can also install a knife on such trimmers) we look for a hole under the coil, insert a screwdriver into it, for example, rotate the coil quietly until the screwdriver penetrates even deeper, and the coil will lock. Now twist the entire coil clockwise (since the thread is left) and remove it from the trimmer. Then we disassemble the coil. It can be assembled using latches or twisted by a lamb. If the coil is on latches, then we press on the sides on the base of the latches so that they bend and release one half of the coil body from the other. We just twist the lamb. There may also be a third type of connection of two halves of such a coil: with it, you need to grab the lower part with one hand, and the upper one with the other, and start turning them in opposite directions. When disassembling such a coil, you must also make sure that the spring inside is not lost.
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Now, having removed and disassembled the coil, we proceed, in fact, to winding.
Winding process
If your coil is designed to work with only one antennae, then everything is simple. You need to rewind 2-4 m of fishing line (depending on the size of the reel), find the hole fixing the line on the inside of the reel, insert one end of the line there and start reeling the line in the direction opposite to the direction of rotation of the reel on the trimmer. On the inside of the reel, they usually indicate an arrow, in which direction to wind the line. After winding up the fishing line, we leave a small piece of it unwound to expose it. We fix this piece in a special groove located on the inside of the reel and designed so that the fishing line does not unwind at the time of collection of the reel. If there is no such groove, then you will have to hold the fishing line with your finger to prevent it from unwinding during the further collection of the reel. Next, we take the outer part of the reel and thread the outer piece of fishing line into the existing hole, collect and put the reel back on the trimmer.
If the coil is designed to work with two antennae, then do the following. On the inside of the reel, we see how many grooves are available for winding fishing line. There may be one or two. If there is one groove, then both antennae are wound along this same groove. If there are two grooves, then each antennae is wound on its own groove. The reel with one groove should have a through hole into which the line is threaded. Unwind 2-4 m of fishing line, thread it through this hole so that on each side of the fishing line sticks out equally. And at the same time we wind both antennae of the fishing line in the same direction, opposite to the direction of rotation of the coil on the trimmer and coinciding with the direction indicated by the arrow on the inside of the coil. We leave a little fishing line unwound, we fix the ends in special grooves, and if they are not there, hold them with our fingers. Pass both ends into the holes on the outer coil body. We assemble the coil and attach it to the trimmer.
Video: How to Reel Makita Trimmer On Makita Trimmer
If there are two grooves, we fold the piece of fishing line 2-4 m long in half, insert the loop obtained at the bend point into the groove between the two grooves, and simultaneously wind both ends of the fishing line in each groove. Further actions are similar to the previous option.
There are still reels in which the line is threaded through a through hole on the inside. After that, the ends of the fishing line, without winding, are threaded completely through the holes on the outer casing of the reel, the reel is assembled and the button, which is usually pressed, is rotated so that the line can be released during operation as it wears out. Turn the button – the line itself is wound inside. At the same time, turning it in the “wrong” direction will not work, since it can only spin in one direction. If you get used to it, then you can wind the line onto such a reel without even taking it apart – you just need to combine the through hole of the inner drum with the holes on the outer case of the reel, and then thread the line into them.
Despite the fact that gardening equipment has been used for a long time, for some owners of private houses it is still a novelty. That is why often questions arise about how to properly wind a line on an electric or gas trimmer.
This is essentially a simple operation, but all its stages must be performed correctly to achieve the desired result. Moreover, in the operating instructions, only a few manufacturers give an answer to this urgent question. Study the article and find out how the line is wound around the reel of the trimmer.
The procedure for winding fishing line on the trimmer reel
First of all, you should know that trimmers have different working nozzles. The reel can be designed for different lengths and thicknesses of fishing line – this point should be considered when purchasing supplies.
So, how do you charge the fishing line into the trimmer coil? All work is divided into several stages:
First you need to disassemble the trimmer head.
Unscrew the nozzle by rotating the drum to the right.
Press your fingers on the two latches located on opposite sides of the slots, and remove the top cover of the nozzle. You can pry the cover with a screwdriver. This should be done carefully: the reels with automatic line feed have a spring, which can forcefully drop the lid along with all the contents of the reel.
Remove scraps of old fishing line.
Now you need to find the middle of the fishing line. To do this, rewind it to the required length (for example, 10 m), cut and fold in half.
Hook the middle of the fishing line into an existing recess or insert it into the hole specially designed for this. And start winding. The direction is indicated by the arrow, which is usually applied to the body of the trimmer coil (usually against the rotation of the drum). Some models have a double-sided reel: in this case, the fishing line should be wound in different directions: one end – in one direction, the other – in the other, while the loop of the fishing line must be brought into the dividing slot located in the middle.
Leave the loose ends of the fishing line about 20 cm long each. Later they will need to be fixed in the recesses.
And finally, the last step will be drum assembly. Replace the washers and spring. On the upper ring of the reel there are two recesses where you need to fill the antenna line of the fishing line. Pass them through the holes and install the reel in the drum, trying to tighten the fishing line and not displace the spring.
Place the drum cover on top and close it with your fingers. The latches will snap into place with a distinctive click.
When you turn on the trimmer, the excess fishing line will be cut off by the cutting blade itself.
As you can see, it is easy to wind the line onto the reel of the trimmer: the main thing is to do everything right. And here are some more tips that will be useful to you when choosing a fishing line, its winding and subsequent work:
Fishing line is of different thickness and with different cross-section. The best option for winding is the "native" for this model of fishing line;
Never use a fishing line or metal cables for the trimmer. Such a replacement may seem effective, but it is very dangerous. Jumping off a working trimmer, the cable can seriously injure not only the lawn mower, but also others;
The fishing line is cut off when the working trimmer comes into contact with solid objects. Try not to allow this, otherwise you will have to stop every time, turn off the device and rewind the fishing line onto the reel;
Use a straight line for mowing grass and a pigtail line for coarse weeds. It is more durable and will not be permanently cut.
Guaranteed production of a factory trimmer refill will inevitably require replacing the fishing line. Having a very rough idea of how to fill the fishing line into the reel of the trimmer yourself, beginners are reluctant to take up this matter. However, with some skills, mastering this simple science does not present any difficulties, and the similar instruction presented below will facilitate this process as much as possible.
Preliminary preparation
First of all, for winding fishing line it is required to remove the reel (bobbin, spool) from the trimmer – specific actions will depend on the complexity of the configuration and the type of product itself:
Small electric trimmers with a working arrangement of the engine and the coil in the lower part, as a rule, have side keys on both sides of the bobbin. By pressing them simultaneously, the upper part of the reel, together with the internal contents for winding the fishing line, is disconnected, while the lower one remains on the trimmer. It is advisable to disassemble the bobbin on an even smooth place so that the spring included in the design does not pop out and is not lost;
Electric and gasoline trimmers with a curved rod without the possibility of installing a knife, as a rule, have coils with a special wing: in such designs, you should hold the spool in one position with one hand and rotate the locking reel on the wing nut with the other counterclockwise. After disconnecting the nut, the entire reel is removed.
Electric and petrol trimmers with the possibility of installing a knife on a straight bar (for example, Stihl trimmers) have a hole under the bobbin. For the motion of the rod to be stationary, a screwdriver or other suitable object is inserted into this hole and with a slow rotation, such a mutual arrangement is achieved when the screwdriver enters the hole and the bobbin is fixed. After that, the coil body scrolls clockwise (with the left thread) and is removed from the trimmer.
For the second and third cases, the coils, depending on the design, are disassembled in various ways. In bobbins with a lamb, a lamb is twisted, in coils with latches, latches-clamps are pressed and one part of the coil is released from the other. If the halves of the spool are threaded, it is enough to turn them by hand in opposite directions until they are completely unscrewed.
We carry out winding fishing line
Slowly completed disassembling the spool reel without losing its spare parts allows you to go to the main task – winding fishing line into the reel. Technological features of the design of the spool and the number of working antennae determine the sequence of actions.
Coil with one working antenna
The simplest option and a simple sequence of actions:
The dimensions of the bobbin and the length of the original factory winding determine the recommended fishing line length for winding – 2 … 5 m.
One end of the fishing line is inserted into the fixing technological hole located inside the spool.
The fishing line is wound on the drum in the reverse direction of rotation of the spool on the trimmer product – as a rule, on the inner side of the bobbin an arrow indicates which direction the winding is going.
A small section of fishing line is left free to bring it out – it is fixed in a specialized groove on the inside of the reel, designed to hold the winding when assembling the spool in working condition.
The left end of the line is passed through the hole on the outside of the bobbin.
The bobbin halves are assembled and put on the bar of the trimmer.
Coil with two working antennae
In this type of spools, you should determine the number of grooves for winding fishing line lying on the inside of the reel:
Video: How to Thread a Line into a Makita Trimmer Coil
One groove – both antennae are wound together along one groove;
Two grooves – each antennae is wound on an individual groove.
For both cases, a 2-3-meter-long fishing line is taken. In single-groove reels, the fishing line is pulled into the through hole, its ends (antennae) are folded together and aligned, after which they are wound in the opposite direction of rotation of the bobbin on the side of the bar – the correct direction of winding is usually indicated inside the arrow. In the presence of fixing grooves, the ends of the fishing line are threaded into them or held by the fingers of their free hands, threaded into the through hole of the outer half of the bobbin, the spool is closed and attached to the bar of the trimmer.
The difference between winding fishing line in two-groove reels is that initially a piece of fishing line 2-5 m long is folded in half (to determine the middle bend), and the bend loop is inserted into a special groove between the grooves. Both antennae of the fishing line are wound each in its own groove, the fixation of the antennae and the reel assembly are similar to the one-groove variant discussed above.
The first implementation of this procedure may seem long and rather laborious, but with time and experience this task will be solved much faster and easier.
The video below will clearly show how to put the fishing line into the reel of the trimmer and wrap it correctly – this operation is not difficult and with some patience will certainly succeed:
Automatic reeling of fishing line
There is a variety of coils in which the automatic mechanism makes winding on its own – from the user it is enough just to properly fill the line. The fishing line is passed through the hole on the inside of the case, its antennae without winding is passed through the hole on the external case, the spool is assembled, and when the winding button is rotated, the line inside is wound up independently. In such a spool, it is impossible to make the winding incorrectly: the mechanism itself will determine the correct direction, since it can only turn in one direction.
To ensure that the area near the house always looks neat and tidy, you need to cut it regularly. Fortunately, modern technology allows us to solve this problem without excessive physical effort. Electric trimmers are so easy to control and care that even a teenager can mow the grass with their help. The main thing is to figure out first how to refill the fishing line in the trimmer.
How to charge a fishing line into a trimmer?
So, we are faced with the task of properly charging the fishing line into the trimmer. Let’s understand in more detail where to start its implementation and what pitfalls can await us in the process.
Step 1 – choose a fishing line
Step 2 – remove the coil from the trimmer
To perform this operation, the trimmer must be disconnected from the network and turned upside down with the working head. The further course of action depends on the trimmer model and the design of the coil itself:
For small trimmers with a lower engine arrangement, press the keys located on the sides of the coil and remove its upper part from the head;
On trimmers with a bent rod, hold the coil housing with one hand, while simultaneously turning the lamb on the housing;
For trimmers with a direct boom and gearbox, insert a screwdriver into the hole located under the coil, and then turn the body of the coil counterclockwise.
Step 3 – disassemble the coil
After the coil is removed from the head, it must be carefully disassembled. It is better to do this on an already mowed plot, since there may be a spring inside the coil, which will be difficult to find in tall grass. After disassembly, we will have three parts on hand: a body (top cover), a protective casing and the coil itself.
Step 4 – measure the required amount of fishing line
Novice mowers are usually interested in how many meters of fishing line to wind onto the trimmer reel? There are two ways to resolve this issue:
Unwind a skein of fishing line on a flat, dry place and separate half from it.
Measure 3-4 meters of fishing line from the skein.
In any case, after the end of the winding, the turns of the fishing line should be on the body of the reel without sliding off it. No need to try to wind as much as possible, since the fishing line will be badly unwound and more often torn.
Step 5 – reel the line onto the reel
How to install the fishing line on the trimmer depends on the design of the coil. Consider the option when in the coil body there is one outlet under the fishing line. In this case, the end of the fishing line is clamped in the crevice of the reel, and then we wind the fishing line, trying to lay the turns as tightly as possible. The direction of laying the turns should be opposite to the direction of rotation of the coil and is usually indicated on its inner part. After winding up on the reel, it is necessary to put on a protective casing and bring the end of the fishing line into it
If the reel is designed to work with two tails, then the fishing line must be folded in half and laid in a groove in the central part of the reel. Further winding will be carried out in one or two grooves, depending on the design of the coil. The winding direction should also be opposite to the direction of rotation of the coil. At the end of the ponytails, the fishing line will also need to be pulled into the holes on the top of the reel.
The lawn mower is irreplaceable for those who have lawns or beds with constantly growing weeds. Of course, the choice of these units is very wide, but some of them are time-tested brands, for example, Makita. The devices of this company are characterized by high performance and excellent quality. However, even with all this in mind, mowers need proper care. Do not forget about periodic adjustments, oil changes and other points of maintenance, and then the service life of the tool will increase significantly.
Features
The Makita brand came from Japan, and its activities began back in 1915. Since then, the company has produced many tools and equipment, including lawn mowers. Each brand product is characterized by ergonomics, simple and convenient design, high productivity.
All mowers are approximately arranged as follows. a cutting device with a drive is installed on the platform, as well as a bag where the mowed grass will be collected. There are models where, instead of a bag, a chopper and sprayer of grass pieces are installed. Push the mower, usually with a special handle. Makita also produces self-propelled lawn mowers with a seat.
Lawn mowers of this brand differ in power, grass capture strip, knives, wheel parameters, grass collector. The cost of the tool depends entirely on its equipment, the better it is and the price will be higher. Electric models are the cheapest, while gasoline-powered models are the most expensive.
Makita tools have a long service life and are easy to operate. In the instruction manual, all the necessary points are perfectly described. At the same time, lawn mowers are aesthetically attractive and small in size, which is convenient for storage. The use of special substances for the processing of component parts of the units provides corrosion resistance.
Varieties
Among the mowers under the Makita brand, everyone can choose the most suitable model for themselves. Given the different operating conditions, you can choose from the following varieties of lawn mowers.
Electric, mains powered
Their main disadvantage is the dependence on the location of the network and, as a result, low mobility. Of the advantages, it can be noted small size and weight, environmental friendliness, noiselessness. Great for mowing grass on small lawns. It is important that the cable does not tuck under the cutting device during operation.
Electric with battery
Their popularity is low, but its growth is gradually noticeable. Such mowers work due to the lithium-ion battery, which is removable. The unit’s operating time is approximately 60 minutes. Among the advantages are light weight, mobility, ease of use. The cordless mower is great for mowing grass on lawns and weeds on beds.
Gas powered
In such devices, four-stroke engines are installed. They are characterized by high performance and endurance. Cope well with medium and large areas. However, the terrain must be taken into account, since if the angle of inclination is more than 30 °, then the engine cylinders will be filled with oil. This can lead to serious malfunctions. The following types of gasoline models are distinguished:
Mechanical, running without fuel
Their work is based on the fact that the cylindrical knife moves due to the drive from the wheels. However, for this, those who mow will have to make a lot of effort. The main advantage of the models is low cost.
The lineup
Makita electric lawn mowers on the official website of the company are represented by the model range ELM 3300, ELM 3310, ELM 3311, ELM 3700, ELM 3710, ELM 3711, ELM 3800, ELM 4100, ELM 4110, ELM 4600, ELM 4601, ELM 4610, ELM 4611, ELM 4612, ELM 4613. Mowers of the UM 3830, UM 4030 and UR 3000 series are also currently in production.
Ur 3000
This model attracted users a number of advantages. Among them is an extra handle that can be adjusted depending on height. The bar can extend up to 2.4 meters. The engine is located below, and its body and mowing head can move 180 °, like a trimmer. This allows you to mow grass even on the very edge of the plot.
The mowing head can be easily removed or installed without the need for additional tools. The line is fed semi-automatically. The mower cannot accidentally start up thanks to a special lock key. The coil has a metal tip that is resistant to wear. The power of the unit is 450 watts. The width of the mowed strip reaches 30 cm. The mass of the tool does not exceed 2.3 kg.
ELM 3711
This mower has an advanced housing design that allows grass mowing even at the fence or wall. A 35 liter grass catcher made of polyamide and polypropylene is easy to install. There is an indicator indicating the filling of the container with vegetation.
The cable is easy to connect and the engine turns on safely. The front wheels reach a diameter of 12.7 cm, and the rear. 17.8 cm. Such a mower is capable of processing a plot of up to 500 square meters. m. The handle is adjustable and folds comfortably. The tool body is made of polypropylene and is not afraid of direct sunlight.
Video: Lawn Mowers Makita: Description, Types And Operation
The impeller optimization provided better ventilation and cooling of the motor. Due to its compact dimensions, the unit is convenient to store. The best mowing of grass is achieved through three levels of mowing (from 2 to 5.5 cm). The knife is capable of capturing a strip width of up to 37 cm.
The model range of gasoline lawn mowers is currently presented at Makita PLM 4100/4101/4110 /, PLM 4600/4601/4602/4603/4610/4611/4612/4616/4617/4618/4620/4621/4622, PLM 5100/5101 / 5102/5112/5113/5114/5115/5120/5121. Of all this diversity, the PLM4621 model is most popular.
PLM4621
This mower features an updated steel casing design and an optional grass mulching function. The 60 liter grass collector is made of modern materials and is easy to install. Engine BRIGGS & STRATTON provides a speed of 3.6 km / h. The unit is equipped with a function of self-propelled movement and a manual non-battery starter. The width of the mowing strip can reach 46 cm, and the height varies from 2 to 7.5 cm. The lawn mower can cope with grass on a plot of up to 1,400 square meters. m. The weight of the unit is 32.5 kg.
Terms of use
To ensure that the lawn is always pleasing with its pleasant appearance, the lawn mower should be used correctly. Before starting work, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the device of the unit, its technical characteristics, and safety requirements.
It is also better to look in advance at the manual and read how to prepare the tool for work, how to properly care for it. There are a number of points that owners should pay special attention to.
First start
Before starting the Makita for the first time, prepare it for use. Start by inspecting the tool to reveal its integrity. If everything is in order, then you can begin to check the availability of fuel for gasoline models. In case of absence, it must be filled.
Checking the oil level is made for all models, including gasoline and electric. over, it is desirable to use those types of oils that are given in the instructions. Next, you must definitely check whether the fasteners are well tightened. If necessary, they must be tightened. Contact on the spark plug also needs to be checked.
The operation of the mower begins with a break-in. This process is the operation of the unit, but only with small loads. It is necessary that all parts of the motor are run in. As a rule, running takes about 4-5 hours. Upon completion, it is important to drain the used oil and replace it with a new one.
Special attention deserves adjustment. It is carried out during the run-in, according to the recommendations contained in the instruction manual.
Change of oil
Oil for lawn mowers is very important, because thanks to it, the device is air-cooled. As a result, the engine can operate at very high speeds. In addition, due to the oil in winter, the mower parts are protected from the effects of negative factors.
Periodically, the oil must be changed, but when it is done exactly, the motor can tell, or rather, the state in which it is. On new lawn mowers or after replacing the engine, it is advisable to change the oil immediately after the break-in has been done. It is recommended to replace the fluid after 5-10 hours of engine operation. This will prevent various debris particles from accumulating inside the motor.
On engines that have already worked decently, oil is replaced after 25-45 hours of operation, that is, once every 2-3 months. It is worth noting that it is important to pay attention to the condition of the oil itself, and not just the working hours. For example, it’s time to fill in the liquid with a new one, if the old one has already turned black. If this is not done, then a motor breakdown may occur. Do-it-yourself step-by-step oil change in a lawn mower is as follows.
First drain the old oil.
Next, you need to turn the tool with the drain hole to the side so that the mining can all drain. It is advisable to prepare in advance a container where the old liquid will merge.
Then the unit returns to its normal position.
New oil is poured through the neck to the mark that is on the crankcase. The device is now ready for use again.
For different temperature conditions, it is recommended to use different oils. This is due to the fact that he has a different viscosity. For example, SAE-30 is suitable for warm days, 10W-30 for cool spring and autumn weather, and 5W-30 for winter time. Only when using the right oil will the mower serve for many years.
Maintenance
Maintenance of the lawn mower is an important step. Each time after work, the tool must be cleaned of dirt and residues of grass, leaves or branches. Before proceeding with the maintenance of the unit, it is important to drain the engine oil. Otherwise, do not tilt the device.
It is worth knowing that grass catcher may wear out over time. Therefore, you should periodically check its condition. As for the candles, they must be changed every 100 hours of operation. Each season, it is imperative to oil parts such as bearings on wheels, cables, joints. After 25-30 hours of operation, clean the air filter. If it is evident that it has worn out, then immediately it is necessary to replace it with a new one.
The knife also needs attention. Indeed, over time, its sharpening may weaken. Also, it must be inspected from time to time for cracks or chips. Recommendations for engine maintenance are given in the instructions and may have nuances depending on the specific model.
Possible malfunctions
The instructions for lawn mowers, as a rule, describe possible malfunctions, as well as methods for eliminating them. If the engine running on gasoline does not start, then you need to start with a fuel check. Also in this case, you should check the level and quality of the oil. It will also be useful to inspect the spark plug and replace it if necessary. It happens that everything seems to be in order, perhaps just a candle needs to be tightened or it is worth inserting the ignition wire into a special mount.
In electric lawn mowers with the engine off, you need to start by checking the cable, or rather, its integrity. Then make sure that the electricity is supplied to the outlet. If the device is wireless, you need to check if the battery is charged. In the event that the power sags, it is first worth replacing the fuel. Often this happens due to poor fuel quality. Sometimes you just need to replace or clean the air filter.
If the engine does not turn on, then it is worth disassembling and inspecting the carburetor, as it clearly needs adjustment. If the fuel line is clogged, uneven operation of the motor is possible. When the mower overheats, pay attention to the condition of the bearing and the oil level. In mechanical mowers, quite often the cause of the breakdown is garbage. It is enough to remove the wheel and clean everything that prevents the drive from moving normally.
When working with a Makita punch, problems started. Friends, how to disassemble the Makita 2450 puncher?
Makita brand HR2450 rotary hammer is a decent choice. This model is top not only within its brand, but also among all similar models. This model is one of the first in sales among professional models of lightweight rotary hammers. If you have any problems while working, I recommend immediately contacting the service center while the hammer is under warranty, this will allow you to fix the technical problems that have arisen for free. Addresses of authorized service centers are indicated on the warranty card. If you do not have a guarantee for the instrument (for various reasons), then I still do not recommend disassembling the instrument yourself. For this, certain skills and a special tool and equipment are needed. In the service center they will make a complete diagnosis, replace the defective parts, clean and lubricate the mechanisms, and give a guarantee for repairs. If I still have not convinced you, and you decide to disassemble yourself, then you need to understand what you want to repair. The hammer has a mechanical and electrical part. Any electrician can cope with the repair of an electrician, in principle, everything is much more complicated with the mechanical part. Here is the diagram:
recommendations and comments on these schemes can be found here
Even very reliable Makita rotary hammers break down over time. Any breakdown is eliminated, you only need to have straight arms and perseverance. In addition to electrical malfunctions, rotary hammers are also subject to mechanical breakdowns. The work of rock drills with solid materials in a dusty environment shortens the life of the machine and requires user intervention to perform preventive maintenance.
Repair of the mechanical part of the Makita 2450 and 2470 puncher
Any repair of the tool begins with the determination of the nature of the malfunction and disassembly.
A Makita 2450 and 2470 rotary hammer can be repaired by a user with basic locksmithing skills and knowledge of electrical safety requirements.
This article discusses the mechanical part of the Makita puncher, the main malfunctions and how to solve them.Dismantling the mechanical part of the Makita 2470 rotary hammer
To get to the mechanical part of the punch, you need to remove or disassemble the cartridge.
Dismantling the quick release chuck Place the hammer drill on the back of the cabinet on the surface of a table covered with a clean cloth or paper. Using tweezers or a screwdriver, remove the rubber tip 35, item 1.
Carefully loosen the annular spring, pos. 2, the clutch cover, pos. 3, the steel ring, pos. 4. You will reach a steel ball with a diameter of 7 mm, pos.20.
Now you can remove the case of the mechanical part It is black. Using a screwdriver, unscrew the four screws at the end of the case.Holding the black case with your right hand, press the end of the shaft from which the cartridge was disassembled with your thumb. The plastic case is easy to remove.
Next, remove the gearbox shaft.
To disconnect the mechanical part from the electric, you must first remove the electric brushes. Remember! In the lower part of the body, the rotor is held by electric brushes, which must be removed.
After checking that the electric brushes are disconnected from the lamellas of the rotor, use a screwdriver to pry the metal case of the perforator at the border of the green plastic case.
Now we proceed to disconnect the rotor from the mechanical part of the punchpa The rotor is held in the mechanical part due to helical gears of the gearbox. If you take the rotor case in one hand, and the mechanical part in the other case and pull it in different directions, swinging, you will separate these two nodes.
You get such a knot in the old grease.Next, unscrew the two M4 × 12 bolts, pos. 43, using the hexagon, item 2666273-7 with the internal hexagon head. Pull out the shaft with the intermediate spur gear 10 pos. 80, art.226399-7. from the inner case pos. 49, art. 153687-8. Clean parts from old grease.
You get such a mountain of clean details.Now carefully review the details, immediately discard the rubber rings, picking up new ones. Replace defective parts with new ones.
Mechanical makita 2450 and makita 2470 rock drill
Common mechanical problems with Makita rotary hammers include:
destruction of the quick-release cartridge;
bearing failure;
breakdown of the shock mechanism;
punch barrel wear;
wear of rubber strikers and striker;
gear breakage.
Repair of the perforator cartridge is done to replace the anther and rubber ring, as well as the conical spring and the steel ball, which provides clamping of the working tool (drill). What does the working tool indicate? namely, the drill is poorly held in the cartridge.
The main reason is the wear of a steel ball 7.0 pos.20, art. 216022-2. Ball wear occurs from contamination of the barrel of the cartridge due to ingress of dust and dirt.
The general view and arrangement of the Makita rotary hammer cartridge is shown in the photo below.
Do-it-yourself makita 2450 rotary hammer cartridge repair is easy to do. The cartridge must be disassembled, freed from old grease, discard rubber parts, replace defective ones.
complex failures require knowledge of the mechanical design of the Makita 2450 rotary hammer.
Having determined the nature of the malfunction of the Makita rotary hammer, proceed to disassemble the mechanical part called the gearbox.
Disassemble the mechanical part according to the attached video. Release it from the old grease. Carefully inspect all parts, their integrity, level of wear. All rubber products during any disassembly require replacement.
Video: How to Disassemble the Makita 2450 Barrel
Consider repairing a perforator barrel. We will analyze the mechanism completely. Video disassembly, lubrication and assembly of the Makita rotary hammer
Video: Makita 2450 rotary hammer bulkhead
Repair of parts of a shaft of the Makita 2450 puncher
Remember! In the lower part of the body, the rotor is held by electric brushes, which must be removed.
At the next stage, the rotor must be disconnected from the removed mechanism. The rotor is disconnected from the mechanism simply by pulling out, because it is held by the friction of two helical gears.
It turned out such a dirty knot.
Now you need to separate the shaft of the percussion mechanism.
Most often, rubber rings, striker poses wear out. 24, compressor spring pos. 18. and cylinder parts.Here’s how barrel parts wear out and collapse during improper use of the tool.
Consider the most difficult malfunction. failure of the shock mechanism. The characteristic signs of failure of the impact mechanism is the absence of impact and the unpleasant noise of a working punch in the “Impact” mode.
Video: A moment of vandalism) (21) Makita HR 2450 rotary hammer Strong impact in impact mode
Such a malfunction is typical for those perforators that during operation were pressed strongly against the work surface. Having disassembled the gearbox, we remove debris and pieces of foreign objects. We find the defective part and clean everything from the old grease.
Very often the striker pos. 24 is destroyed, art. 324396-8, which is part of the trunk.metal ring pos. 27. art. 324216-6.Discard damaged parts, replace with new ones, cover with a thin layer of grease. Parts are ready for assembly. But more on that in the next article.
Even very reliable Makita rotary hammers break down over time. Any breakdown is eliminated, you only need to have straight arms and perseverance. In addition to electrical malfunctions, rotary hammers are also subject to mechanical breakdowns. The work of rock drills with solid materials in a dusty environment shortens the life of the machine and requires user intervention to perform preventive maintenance.
Repair of the mechanical part of the Makita 2450 and 2470 puncher
Any repair of the tool begins with the determination of the nature of the malfunction and disassembly.
A Makita 2450 and 2470 rotary hammer can be repaired by a user with basic locksmithing skills and knowledge of electrical safety requirements.
This article discusses the mechanical part of the Makita puncher, the main malfunctions and how to solve them.Dismantling the mechanical part of the Makita 2470 rotary hammer
To get to the mechanical part of the punch, you need to remove or disassemble the cartridge.
Dismantling the quick release chuck Place the hammer drill on the back of the cabinet on the surface of a table covered with a clean cloth or paper. Using tweezers or a screwdriver, remove the rubber tip 35, item 1.
Carefully loosen the annular spring, pos. 2, the clutch cover, pos. 3, the steel ring, pos. 4. You will reach a steel ball with a diameter of 7 mm, pos.20.
Now you can remove the case of the mechanical part It is black. Using a screwdriver, unscrew the four screws at the end of the case.Holding the black case with your right hand, press the end of the shaft from which the cartridge was disassembled with your thumb. The plastic case is easy to remove.
Next, remove the gearbox shaft.
To disconnect the mechanical part from the electric, you must first remove the electric brushes. Remember! In the lower part of the body, the rotor is held by electric brushes, which must be removed.
After checking that the electric brushes are disconnected from the lamellas of the rotor, use a screwdriver to pry the metal case of the perforator at the border of the green plastic case.
Now we proceed to disconnect the rotor from the mechanical part of the punchpa The rotor is held in the mechanical part due to helical gears of the gearbox. If you take the rotor case in one hand, and the mechanical part in the other case and pull it in different directions, swinging, you will separate these two nodes.
You get such a knot in the old grease.Next, unscrew the two M4 × 12 bolts, pos. 43, using the hexagon, item 2666273-7 with the internal hexagon head. Pull out the shaft with the intermediate spur gear 10 pos. 80, art.226399-7. from the inner case pos. 49, art. 153687-8. Clean parts from old grease.
You get such a mountain of clean details.Now carefully review the details, immediately discard the rubber rings, picking up new ones. Replace defective parts with new ones.
Mechanical makita 2450 and makita 2470 rock drill
Common mechanical problems with Makita rotary hammers include:
destruction of the quick-release cartridge;
bearing failure;
breakdown of the shock mechanism;
punch barrel wear;
wear of rubber strikers and striker;
gear breakage.
Repair of the perforator cartridge is done to replace the anther and rubber ring, as well as the conical spring and the steel ball, which provides clamping of the working tool (drill). What does the working tool indicate? namely, the drill is poorly held in the cartridge.
The main reason is the wear of a steel ball 7.0 pos.20, art. 216022-2. Ball wear occurs from contamination of the barrel of the cartridge due to ingress of dust and dirt.
The general view and arrangement of the Makita rotary hammer cartridge is shown in the photo below.
Do-it-yourself makita 2450 rotary hammer cartridge repair is easy to do. The cartridge must be disassembled, freed from old grease, discard rubber parts, replace defective ones.
complex failures require knowledge of the mechanical design of the Makita 2450 rotary hammer.
Having determined the nature of the malfunction of the Makita rotary hammer, proceed to disassemble the mechanical part called the gearbox.
Disassemble the mechanical part according to the attached video. Release it from the old grease. Carefully inspect all parts, their integrity, level of wear. All rubber products during any disassembly require replacement.
Consider repairing a perforator barrel. We will analyze the mechanism completely. Video disassembly, lubrication and assembly of the Makita rotary hammer
Repair of parts of a shaft of the Makita 2450 puncher
Remember! In the lower part of the body, the rotor is held by electric brushes, which must be removed.
At the next stage, the rotor must be disconnected from the removed mechanism. The rotor is disconnected from the mechanism simply by pulling out, because it is held by the friction of two helical gears.
It turned out such a dirty knot.
Now you need to separate the shaft of the percussion mechanism.
Most often, rubber rings, striker poses wear out. 24, compressor spring pos. 18. and cylinder parts.Here’s how barrel parts wear out and collapse during improper use of the tool.
Consider the most difficult malfunction. failure of the shock mechanism. The characteristic signs of failure of the impact mechanism is the absence of impact and the unpleasant noise of a working punch in the “Impact” mode.
Such a malfunction is typical for those perforators that during operation were pressed strongly against the work surface. Having disassembled the gearbox, we remove debris and pieces of foreign objects. We find the defective part and clean everything from the old grease.
Very often the striker pos. 24 is destroyed, art. 324396-8, which is part of the trunk.metal ring pos. 27. art. 324216-6.Discard damaged parts, replace with new ones, cover with a thin layer of grease. Parts are ready for assembly. But more on that in the next article.
Innovative technologies in construction are developing every day, it is no longer a secret that a screwdriver is an indispensable assistant for both an experienced specialist and a novice master. Thanks to him, you can easily tighten all kinds of screws and self-tapping screws when assembling furniture designs, as well as when repairing equipment and residential premises.
The fact that any equipment fails over time is no longer news to us, so it becomes possible to disassemble a screwdriver and try to repair it with your own hands. But only without fanaticism, be careful when disassembling, especially such models as: interskol yes 12er 01, interskol yes 18er.
How is a screwdriver arranged? (Video)
What problems can I fix in my home environment? How to recognize this or that breakdown? To give specific answers to the questions asked, let’s first look at the internal mechanism of the tool. The main protruding element is the power button. It is used to start the device and to change the speed, the direction of rotation of the working part. the cartridge.
Speed adjustment is carried out thanks to an electronic device based on a transistor. The speed of revolutions is directly proportional to the force of pressing the button. The reverse is triggered by replacing the polarity of the electric current at the terminals. Traditionally, a screwdriver is equipped with single-phase collector type motors that operate on continuous current. The engine includes a housing, magnets, an anchor and brushes.
Rotation from the motor goes to the gearbox. Further, it converts high engine speeds into reduced cycles on the shaft, a cartridge with active bits is fixed in it. The gearbox can be used classic, as on a conventional drill, including a planetary one. Recently, the classic gearbox is almost not used, so we will not stop and go further. The planetary gear includes:
Ring gear
Sun gear mounted directly on the motor shaft
Satellites
two or three drove
Then follows a force stabilizer with sixteen positions. These positions give a specific tension on the self-tapping screw, so as not to spoil the material with which they are attached. The last component is the cartridge.
How to disassemble a screwdriver in general form (Video)
Let’s do a disassembly analysis, an example is a Makita screwdriver:
We remove the block housing where the battery is located.
We remove the screws that combine the two halves of the case with a Phillips screwdriver.
We take out everything that is contained inside the tool body.
Disconnect the reverse button.
Dismantle the speed switch.
We disconnect the engine and gearbox.
How the cartridge is disassembled (Video)
If the cartridge fixing is conical, then it is removed simply. by careful blows with a hammer on the block case. If the fasteners are threaded, you will need the following steps:
In the clockwise direction, unscrew the screw with the left thread.
We squeeze the hexagon in a vise, put a key on it and make blows with a hammer. Similarly, the cartridge should move from its original position. You can choose another option:
Put the screwdriver on a flat surface, on the table, for example.
Turn it on.
Observe if the cartridge has moved off the table. when striking a hexagon.
It also happens that all of the above methods do not work, and then one thing remains. to disassemble the screwdriver, after which:
Remove gearbox and spindle;
Position the assembly in the vise clamps;
Take the pipe wrench and then disconnect the chuck.
And if garbage is found in the gearbox, then you need to do so.
How to disassemble the battery (Video)
Disconnect the screws at the bottom of the box.
Open the box.
Check and discard components.
Replace and assemble again.
The mounting screws on the underside can vary in number, from four to six. Often unscrew with a Phillips screwdriver. Screws come in various lengths. This must be taken into account so as not to confuse them with each other during assembly. On some modifications, you can find a non-separable case. Then examine the entire surface and find a special strip along which the factory gluing passes. Next, you need to take a strong knife and insert it into the groove, slightly swaying to the sides. If the case breaks into the upper and lower parts, the autopsy was successful. Not a problem if this happens past the groove. All discrepancies can be glued with good superglue. The upper part of the housing contains several parts for the battery. At each of these components, a voltage is measured, which must certainly be in the range of the optimal level. If the difference is over 10%, such a battery needs to be replaced.
Each manufacturer seeks to create a tool that will be as convenient as possible in the work process, creating an extensive assortment of models. from basic level screwdrivers to professional samples.
Hitachi screwdrivers prioritize the excellent build quality as well as the practicality of their tools. Bosch’s model cordless screwdriver collection is practically no different from its counterparts, which have a cord for connecting to 220 V. Equipped with mode switches, as well as an off button and an accelerator option, Bosch screwdrivers are an excellent solution for home and professional use. In addition, such brands as Interskol, Makita, Cmi, Bison have proven themselves well.
Repair of the cartridge and other parts of the Makita screwdriver
Next, a screwdriver from the famous Makita brand will be considered, we will describe its technical properties and the general device, we will talk about the main dilemmas and defects that arise during the use of the tool, and of course, how to diagnose a breakdown at home and repair the one that is also called another element screwdriver.
Makita screwdriver
Description, general information
The Makita company makes various power tools among which screwdrivers are considered. The company began its history from the 20th century, and to this day, it continues to amuse consumers with its products of quality work. It is necessary to consider the general features and properties of the models of this office.
Makita screwdrivers are very powerful. The average indicator of the stroke frequency for different models is about 2300 rpm, which is a good indicator, compared with other brands. The weight of most models of instruments lies during 1.5 kg. Its small mass says that in fact, that such an inventory will work comfortably. The manufacturer also took care of the convenience of working in poorly lit rooms, making LED lighting on most models. Separately, it is worth highlighting the type of handle for holding these tools on weight. You, they become rubberized, so they are comfortable to hold in your hands, respectively, the process is much easier.
The disadvantage of these screwdrivers is the powerful vibration of the handle during operation, as well as their short-lived batteries. Today, the cost of the products of this office is quite high, which is important for the Russian consumer.
Scheme, device screwdriver "Makita"
Let’s look at the device of a screwdriver on a specific model 6271D. The scheme of this model is presented in the figure below.
Scheme 1
The diagram shows:
Shift lever
Body assembly
Nameplate
Screw
Spring
Lever arm reverse shift
Start button
Contact terminal
Screw
Keyless Chuck
Gear assembly
Electric motor
Screw
Body assembly
Charging unit
Battery
Read the same
A modern screwdriver is an ultra-technological device. Principal structural elements:
Removable battery
Rubberized handle grip
The most powerful electric motor
Iron planetary gear
Soft start button
Reverse button
Torque regulator
These are the main components of the construction of a screwdriver, which are included in the basic configuration of any model of a screwdriver.
Dismantling a screwdriver "Makita"
To disassemble a screwdriver, you will need a Phillips screwdriver and a little personal time. In order to completely disassemble a screwdriver, it is required:
unscrew fastening screws housing;
remove the composite mechanism of the start button;
remove the electric motor coupled with the gearbox;
disconnect the gearbox from the motor by unscrewing the bolts securing them.
To disassemble the battery of the screwdriver, you need to unscrew the bolts connecting the case, otherwise divide the case connections on the glue base with a soldering iron. Inside the battery there are several nickel-cadmium batteries that have a certain capacity and carry a charge. If the battery repair passage requires a change to new ones.
How to repair a reducer in 6271 Makita Restoring a reducer 6271
IN Makite 6271 gearbox failed in this matter video I will show how to return it. For this purpose, you will come in handy.
Change ”screwdriver gear. (Replacement gear screwdriver on Makita 8280d)
When replacing the gear unit, the cartridge was removed and the case cleaned from the inside. Hope it video It was fascinating for you.
The cartridge is changed with a screwdriver and an allen key. First, with a screwdriver, you unwind the fastening screw in the cartridge by rotating it clockwise. Then the hexagon is inserted, the reverse button is cut in, clamped, and later the cartridge simply lends itself.
Failures of the Makita screwdriver
frequent breakdowns of the Makita office screwdriver are as follows:
Do not cut the screwdriver. Here, well, what remains to make our client clear. First you need to look at the battery, in addition, the contacts and connections in the case, the wiring. A multimeter will help you to check.
The reverse button does not work. This means that you cannot either twist or unscrew the screws and bolts. Here you need to check the resistance of the button with a multimeter by placing the probes on the input and output wires of the button.
The speed controller does not work. In this case, the revolutions will be either constantly reduced or constantly overestimated. Here the regulating transistor or brushes will be to blame. Need a visual inspection of the details.
Repair of the Makita screwdriver
Repair of the Makita screwdriver button
Read the same
The on / off button of the instrument is a complex electrical mechanism. It consists of several constituent parts:
launch buttons
reverse buttons;
speed change buttons;
soft start buttons.
When repairing a button, you first need to disassemble it by loosening the screws body mounts and disconnecting the battery. As a result, it is necessary to check the connections and contacts for contamination, clean them. If the passage, if the stripping of the contacts did not help remove the problem, the button should be replaced as an assembly.
Repair of the charger of the Makita screwdriver
When repairing the charger, you need to unscrew the screws that fasten the housing covers. Inside is an integrated circuit with contacts. First you need to check the transformer with a tester. For this purpose, you need to measure the output voltage. Later, you should ring the cable to prevent it from breaking. Then the primary and secondary windings of the transformer and the fuse are checked. It must be assembled in the reverse order.
Repair of a battery of the Makita screwdriver
When performing battery repair with a Phillips screwdriver, unwind fastening screws corps. Inside the case there are several cans. With the help of visual inspection, you need to look at them and identify geometry violations, such as bloating, for example. We test banks with a multimeter for the presence of a residual charge. In its absence, the bank is replaced with the latest.
Repair of a reducer of the Makita screw gun (scheme)
To remove the gearbox, you need to disassemble the housing by unscrewing the screws with a Phillips screwdriver. We take out the start button, reverse switch button, disconnect the bolts of the motor to the gearbox. Then you need to pull out the contents of the gearbox (different gears), the speed switch washer. When examining an empty gearbox, special attention should be paid to the teeth placed around the circumference of the gear case. For which the design of their attrition is intended, the gearbox will not be able to do its function: the speed switch does not work correctly. To restore the teeth, you need to use small bolts, inserting them into the unique plastic area. Assemble the gearbox in reverse order. The gearbox diagram is shown in the figure below. He presented a general diagram of the gearbox.
Scheme 2
Brushes on screwdriver "Makita"
The brushes used for a screwdriver have a graphite base. Their price currently varies between 2-5 y. e. They are located in the motor housing and are two graphite cubes mounted on iron plates. With intense work, they wear out and wear out.
Carrying out repairs at home they have the option of turning rattles from brushes from another tool, for example, a car starter. After undercutting, they should be inserted into the brush holder and put into the area, collecting the engine.
Keyless chuck "Makita"
This cartridge is used to clamp bits with a cylindrical shank. This cartridge features ease of installation. It is installed with just one movement of the hand. It is used for drills with a diameter from 1 to 10 mm. This is a movable structural element in the tool, because it often breaks. To disassemble it, you need to read the tips, first described articles, on disassembling the cartridge using a hex wrench and a Phillips screwdriver. The cost of this product is about 20 y. e.
Video: How to Assemble a Makita Screwdriver Video
The material in this article came out great. Here we outlined to our client the probable tasks that arise during the operation of Makita office screwdrivers remain, told how to remove them with our own hands, separately talked about the various structural elements that make up the base of any screwdriver. The materials of the article show the scheme of the gearbox and the general device of the screwdriver. We hope that the information will be useful to you.
Read the same
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The screwdriver can be repaired independently, having studied its structure and principles of operation of individual units.
Device and screwdriver malfunctions
All screwdrivers are arranged approximately the same. They consist of the following functional units:
start button;
pulse width regulator;
electric motor;
transistor;
planetary reductor.
All components of the device are in a strong and aesthetic case, which has a rubberized handle, control and adjustment buttons, as well as a slot for installing the battery (if the screwdriver is designed only for 220 V operation, it does not have a battery).
When you press the start button, the screwdriver may not be squeaking. This is a normal occurrence of DC motors at startup and at low speeds.
Why and how to adjust the ratchet
A ratchet screwdriver is a clutch designed to limit the force during rotation of the chuck. Its presence in the power tool can be determined by a rotating ring with numbers. Some users do not understand the meaning of the coupling and do not touch it. Using a ratchet, you can adjust the screwing depth of the screw. In too soft material, the fastener cap is easily recessed and can pass through. When using small fasteners, very high torque can destroy it. A ratchet prevents the cutting of a slot from self-tapping screws and the wear of a screwdriver bit. To determine the desired value on the control ring, make several passes, starting with the minimum.
If the screwdriver has a drilling mode, then the last icon on the coupling will be the icon with the image of the drill. In this position, maximum torque is used.
Frequent screwdriver malfunctions
Since all modern screwdrivers have a standard device layout, their malfunctions, as a rule, are also typical. The main defects of this tool include:
battery malfunction;
brush wear;
button breakage;
runout of a cartridge;
lack of response to attempts to turn on or off;
interruption work.
You can fix all these failures yourself if you have experience working with measuring and soldering devices. In some cases, you will have to change the components completely, since not all parts are sold separately. If repairing the gearbox or motor is too complicated for you, these elements can be completely replaced or taken to the workshop.
DIY screwdriver repair
To eliminate most of the malfunctions of a screwdriver, it needs to be disassembled, that is, removing the case and disconnecting the main components from each other.
How to disassemble a screwdriver
The screwdriver is disassembled in the following sequence:
Remove the battery.
Remove the screws connecting the two halves of the housing.
The case of the screwdriver consists of two parts connected by a fairly large number of screws. in order to disassemble it, you need to find all the attachment points
Remove its top.
Take out the contents.
Disconnect the button.
The screwdriver button is integral with the switching mechanism, which is connected to the engine, so when separating the button from the socket on the case, you must be careful not to break the wires
Remove the gear selector.
Disconnect motor, gearbox, adjuster, and chuck.
In order to disconnect the gear of the screwdriver from its engine, it is necessary to unscrew the four screws located at the contact point of the two plastic casings
Video: how to disassemble a screwdriver
Cartridge Repair
The chucks in different models of screwdrivers may differ slightly from each other. They can be attached to the shaft in three ways:
Morse cone.
Threaded connection.
Threaded connection with fixing screw.
To determine the method of attaching the cartridge, you need to read the inscription on its sleeve:
the marking “1–6 B10” means a Morse cone. Used nozzles with a shank diameter of 1 to 6 millimeters. The coding "B10" indicates the size of the cone. Take a hammer and knock out a cartridge by striking the body;
inscriptions like “1,0–11 M12x1,2” or “2–13 mm ½-20 UNF” mean metric and inch threads.
If the cartridge is threaded, you must perform the following steps:
Release the cams of the cartridge.
If there is a screw inside, unscrew it clockwise (the screw has a left-hand thread).
Take a 10mm hexagon wrench.
Insert the short edge into the cartridge and tightly clamp in the fists.
At low speeds, start and immediately turn off the screwdriver so that the long edge of the hexagon hits the table. Instead of turning on the device, you can simply hit the key with a hammer. The thread moves and the cartridge is unscrewed.
In order to remove the cartridge, you need to hold the hex key in it and start the engine at low speeds until the key hits the table
Video: how to remove a threaded chuck using a hex wrench
If these methods do not help, disassemble the screwdriver and remove the gearbox assembly. Take the L-shaped tubular wrench (most often 19 ”) and unscrew the chuck, holding the gearbox securing bolts on the back with the cap wrench. She will give the necessary emphasis, with which you can unscrew the cartridge by hand.
Video: how to remove a cartridge with a pipe wrench
To disassemble the cartridge, you need to remove the cap at its base. The plastic plug is gently poked with a knife. Metal. knocked out by hammer blows on the base of the cartridge:
Take a large bolt, insert it into the cartridge and slightly tighten for alignment. The bolt head should protrude above the cartridge for two to three centimeters.
Hammer the bolt head. The cartridge will pop out of the case.
Video: removing a plastic plug from a screwdriver chuck
Common cartridge malfunctions:
crookedly pinches bits;
play between bits and cams;
cams jerk out.
To find out the reasons and eliminate them, follow these steps:
Disassemble the cartridge.
Remove the flare nut, which consists of two parts.
Unscrew the clamping jaws.
Check the condition of the threads on the nut and on the cams, replace the defective parts.
In the process of working on cams or a flare nut that controls their work, a thread may develop or crumble, then these parts must be replaced
Assemble the cartridge in the reverse order of disassembly.
Video: analysis and repair of a cartridge with a metal plug
Battery Repair
Three types of batteries are used in screwdrivers:
Nickel Cadmium (Ni-Cd). They can be charged many times, but they have a memory effect. If you do not wait for the full discharge and begin to charge the battery, then its capacity will gradually decrease. Swing the battery before first use. Discharge and recharge it three times to maximize capacity.
Nickel Metal Hydride (Ni-MH). A feature of such batteries is a less pronounced memory effect, but a high self-discharge current. If you intend to store a screwdriver without use for more than a month, be sure to fully charge its battery.
Lithium-ion (Li-Ion). These batteries charge quickly, but do not tolerate frost. They can be charged when convenient.
Store all types of batteries separately from the screwdriver and charger. For long periods of non-use, they need to be recharged once a month.
If the battery does not hold a charge, disassemble it. It consists of several batteries. Check the voltage tester in each. The value of the operating voltage is indicated on the housing (it is the same for all elements). Replace broken batteries.
The battery of a screwdriver consists of several elements, which you can call and find and replace those that have failed
Video: eliminating fast battery drain
If the battery cannot be removed, the locking button is most likely stuck. It is necessary to remove the upper part of the case, disconnect the battery, disassemble it and adjust the button.
Charger Repair
Frequent damage to the charger:
the fuse is on;
network cable breaks;
the primary winding of the transformer breaks;
diodes break through.
If we disassemble the charger of the screwdriver, then we will see a step-down transformer and a board. Through the mains voltage is supplied to the primary winding of the transformer. The thermal fuse is connected in series with the network winding, so it overheats first and prevents the winding from breaking. From the secondary winding, the voltage passes to the diode bridge. If charging transmits current, yellow is formed around the diodes. Transformer windings overheat, diodes break through.
The charger of the screwdriver consists of a step-down transformer and a board with electronics
Measure the resistance on the primary winding with a multimeter. If it is not there, it means that the circuit is disconnected and the voltage does not reach the primary coil. The fuse is located beneath the transformer insulation next to the wires connecting to the network. Check it with a tester.
If the fuse is intact, check the power cord; it may be broken.
If the wire is OK, check the windings. In case of breakdown, replace the transformer.
Video: diagnostics and repair of the charger
Button Issues
A malfunction of the start button can lead to the following malfunctions of the screwdriver:
self-propelled guns appear;
the device does not turn on;
the device is unstable.
From the button, two wires go to the battery terminals and two to the engine. If there is a transistor, then it is connected by three wires. Make sure the problem is in the button:
Connect the battery. Press the button and tester measure the voltage at its output, it should be absent.
Remove the battery and remove the upper motor wire from the button housing.
Connect the motor directly to the battery. To do this, take two wires of the required length and connect them to the battery terminals. Connect the other ends of the wires to the motor housing and to the wire that was inserted into the button. If the engine is running, then the button is faulty.
Video: diagnostics and replacing a screwdriver button
Button repair sequence:
The wires coming from the button do not need to be soldered. Carefully, so as not to damage the base, remove the push part of the button that does not fall into the interior of the case. This should not be done in a jerk, but slowly rotated and pulled towards yourself.
Remove the protective cover. Take a knife and a flat screwdriver. Pry and release all latches. Pull out element number 1 and remove the cover of the inclusion compartment under number 2. If the contacts are slightly burnt, they must be cleaned. But if they burn out completely, then the button is best replaced. It is sold complete with wires. If the contacts are intact, then move on.
Holding the spring, carefully remove the trigger mechanism. Look inside. Perhaps, due to the poor quality of the metal, the contact pads wiped off and dust formed, which settled inside the plastic box. Accordingly, dielectric surfaces began to conduct electric current. This is one of the reasons for spontaneous operation of the device. The second reason is a failed transistor. Remove metal dust with a cotton moistened with alcohol. Contacts can be scraped off with a knife, but not with sandpaper, so as not to spoil their surface. Now reassemble everything in reverse order. Replace the burnt transistor. Turn on the tool.
The cause of the malfunction of the button may be burnt contacts, metal dust or a burnt transistor
Inspection and repair of the force regulator
Behind the cartridge is an adjusting ring with a spring that controls the force and snaps the cartridge away from the gearbox. This spring presses on the balls, which abut against the protrusions of the ring gear of the gearbox. Disassemble the ratchet, check the integrity of all its elements. Remove dirt with a rag dampened with alcohol, grease balls.
Video: ratchet repair
Gearbox disassembly and repair
The main elements of the gearbox:
They are made of metal and plastic. An annular gear is a cylinder with internal teeth along the entire circumference. Satellites move along the teeth.
The first carrier has two gears at both ends. The first solar is the engine drive gear. She enters between the satellites of the first carrier. The second solar on the opposite side sets between the satellites of the second carrier. In a two-stage gearbox, the second carrier is connected to the shaft on which the cartridge is worn. The three-stage gearbox has another mechanism. All these parts are located inside the ring gear.
The engine transmits the rotation to the first stage satellites through the sun gear. The first carrier rotates the second stage of the satellites. If there is a third step, then the second carrier will rotate it. Satellites of all stages rotate inside the ring gear. The last carrier rotates the cartridge shaft. With each transmission of torque, the speed drops.
Gearbox disassembly sequence:
Cartridge removal.
The unwinding of the body.
Disconnecting the gearbox from the motor.
Plate removal.
Removing all parts from the chassis.
When disassembling the gearbox, all parts are removed sequentially: first satellites of the first stage, and then the second
Unscrew all bolts that connect both halves of the gearbox.
Correction of spring diameter using pliers to improve gear engagement.
Disassembly of the coupling by removing the retaining ring, washers, bulk bearing.
Shaft removal
Arrange all the parts of the disassembled gear in order, so that later it is easier to assemble.
If a rattle is heard during the operation of the screwdriver or it twitches, then the gearbox has defects. During operation, you have to make lateral pressing and heavily load the tool. Because of this, the gearbox shaft bends and a noticeable runout occurs. In this case, the assembly changes assembly.
If the support sleeve and shaft bearing are worn, they can be replaced with similar ones.
Breakage of the pin of the satellite is accompanied by the start and instant stop of the engine. Replace the carrier or gearbox.
Wearing gear teeth also requires replacing the gearbox.
Often, gearbox repair is reduced only to cleaning and lubrication. Do not overdo it with grease, otherwise the device will work poorly.
Video: disassembling, assembling, cleaning and lubricating the gearbox
Brush replacement
Graphite brushes are located at the end of the engine on the connection side with the button. They can be located inside the engine housing under the rear cover or outside. If at least one of the brushes is worn by 40%, change both. Check your contacts. The following signs indicate wear on the brushes:
the engine runs jerkily;
sounds unusual for normal operation are heard;
sparking;
the smell of burning.
When removing and installing the brushes, you need to hold the holders, otherwise, under the action of the spring, they can scatter quite far
Video: replacing engine brushes
Engine repair
The screwdriver uses a DC motor in a cylindrical case with magnets. Inside is an anchor with windings and brushes. To check the motor, disconnect the gearbox and the wires leading to the button, and measure the resistance of the armature winding with a multimeter. Lack of readings indicates a break, and a very low value indicates a short circuit. The collector resistance is measured on the shaft and each plate. It must be zero. Faults in the anchor lead to shutdown during operation, loss of power, sparking and smoke.
Video: testing the winding of the armature and collector plates with a multimeter
Often when the engine fails, the gear remains intact. Since in most engines it is pressed onto the shaft, its removal takes place with some difficulties. Buy a special puller or use the tools at hand. Do not try to do this with pliers or a nail puller. you will bend the shaft and spoil the gear teeth.
Take a piece of profile or channel. Make a longitudinal groove angle grinder.
Insert the shaft into the groove perpendicular to the profile and pry off the gear.
Lay the profile on two hard surfaces so that the engine hangs between them.
Take a nail and gently tap the edge of the shaft with a hammer. The gear will slip easily.
Put the gear onto the new engine with a hammer and a hard surface.
Video: remove the gear from the engine shaft
The screwdriver is cracking but not twisting
If there is a crack in the screwdriver, first try changing the position of the speed controller. Perhaps he was not involved. If this procedure does not help, disassemble the tool.
If the engine is spinning, disconnect the chuck. Check the rotation of the gearbox shaft and the condition of the motor gear.
If the shaft does not rotate and the gear is intact, disassemble the gearbox. Check the condition of the teeth of the satellites and gears.
If the engine does not work, check the brushes, windings and anchor.
Now you know how to disassemble, assemble and repair a do-it-yourself screwdriver.
Adjusting the carburetor of a Makita chainsaw affects the performance of the device, the quality of work. To properly configure the working node of the equipment, it is important: to understand the principle of its operation, have the necessary tools, take care of the fasteners, as well as closely spaced elements responsible for the operation of the chainsaw.
Features carburetor settings Makita
Makita chainsaw carburetor works on the same principle as carburetors produced by other manufacturers. This important detail is responsible for mixing fuel with air. In order to prevent the operation of the device, Makita chainsaw is adjusted. This will help protect the motor equipment.
By adjusting, you can:
eliminate the risk of creating a “lean” mixture with a carburetor;
minimize the risks of creating a supersaturated mixture, which adversely affects the operation of the motor, causing rapid wear.
If you need a new carburetor for a Makita chainsaw (you will adjust, focusing on standard instructions), choose the one that is identical in structure to the original.
The basis of the basics is a tube for air passage, which is connected to the valve (in the middle). The location of this part affects the amount of air that enters the engine during operation.
Diffuser. It is not difficult to identify it, with careful consideration of the components of the carburetor. This part looks like a narrow tube, the main function of which is to adjust the air flow rate.
The channel that supplies fuel from the float chamber (connected to the nozzle).
A separate design that stands out from the others is the float chamber, which looks like a standard tank for fuel fluids.
Adjustment screws
Adjustment of the carburetor of the Makita chainsaw is carried out with a set of adjusting screws that are in the body of this design:
screw marked L. corrects low revs;
screw marked H, due to which high speed is adjusted;
T screw to adjust carburetor idling.
Preparing for adjustment:
The engine is allowed to warm up (start the chainsaw for 10 minutes).
Checking the air filter and cleaning this part.
Stopping the chain by turning the screw marked T (turn all the way).
Carry out the following settings:
put the chainsaw on a flat surface;
After removing the chain, set aside.
To diagnose problems with the carburetor use a tachometer.
Important! Masters advise listening to the sound that the screws make when turning. A squealing sound may indicate a mixture is oversaturated.
Algorithm of actions for customization
Carrying out the carburetor chainsaw in two stages:
base stage (engine on);
Stage Two. Perform when the engine is warm.
Important! Some configuration steps need to be adjusted, depending on the Makita chainsaw model. In order to do everything right, read the instructions.
Standard algorithm of actions.
We turn the screws for adjusting the high and low revolutions all the way (turn clockwise).
At the moment of the meeting of resistance, make a half turn back.
A screw marked T is moved clockwise. Release it only when the engine starts to work stably. At the same time, keep in mind that the chain should not move at this stage.
What should I do if the engine turns off during idle tuning? In this case, it is important to quickly turn the screw all the way (turn clockwise). If manipulation leads to chain movement, the adjusting screw is rotated slowly to its previous position.
How to check if the carburetor is set correctly?
To do this, speed up the work of the chainsaw. Start the engine at maximum speed to objectively evaluate its operation. When you click on the accelerator, the rotation speed should reach about 15 thousand revolutions per minute. This indicator indicates that the carburetor setting was successful.
If you cannot achieve such an indicator at high speeds, and the acceleration is slow, you need to adjust the carburetor again, working only with the screw that has the mark L. Rotate it counterclockwise. In this case, the screw must be rotated slowly so that the rotation does not exceed 1/8 of the full rotation.
If the opposite problem arises and the maximum rotation indicators need to be reduced to 15 thousand, you need to rotate the screw marked with the letter H. Rotate it slowly, slowly in the opposite direction of the clockwise movement.
Reducing the RPM to the optimum value will reduce the risk of engine wear.
Makita chainsaw carburetor adjustment Link to main publication
Makita Chainsaw Carb Adjustment
DIY carburetor setup for chainsaw
For an independent carburetor option, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with its device and clarify the procedure for the work that is carried out to adjust the parts responsible for the proper functioning of the component parts of the device and parts close to it.
It is necessary to carefully handle objects for the system option, and also determine the compliance of the set characteristics with very acceptable values.
About carburetor design
The carburetor is used to mix a combustible consistency with air, subject to well-established proportions. If clear doses are not respected, the health of the motor is at risk. When a huge amount of air enters during the mixing of the component, and there is not enough fuel, such a mixture is considered to be “poor”.
It should not be allowed and oversaturation, because with a large amount of fuel in comparison with air, malfunctions or deterioration of the motor are also likely. Adjustment of the carburetor is necessary not only before the initial implementation, but also when any differences in its work are revealed. Before working with a chainsaw, do not forget to run it in.
Carburetor parts
The carburetor design contains a standard set of parts, but may vary slightly depending on the manufacturer. Components:
The basis. This is a special tube that visually resembles an aerodynamic design. Air passes through it. In the transverse direction, a shutter is located in the middle of the pipe. Her position can be changed. The more it is pushed into the passage, the less air enters the engine.
Diffuser. This is the lent out part of the tube. With its help, the air supply rate increases in the segment where the fuel comes from.
Channels for supplying fuel. The fuel mixture is contained in the float chamber, then passes into the nozzle, from which flows into the spray.
Float chamber. It is a separate structural element that resembles the shape of a tank. Designed to constantly maintain an optimal level of fuel fluid before entering the channel from where air comes.
Not sure which chainsaw to choose? Read our article.
Looking for cheaper models, but reliable and time-tested? Pay attention to Russian-made chainsaws.
Or explore overseas chainsaw manufacturers such as Stihl.
What you need to have to configure
Each carburetor owner must have the necessary tools to adjust this system. There are three adjusting screws that are located on the device. They have their own markings:
L. screw for low speed correction.
H. screw for adjusting high revs.
T. regulates idling, in most cases it is used for experiments.
Chainsaw Air Filter
Before adjusting the carburetor, you need to prepare the device:
The engine warms up, that is, it starts about 10 minutes before repair, and turns off when work starts (see how to start a chainsaw).
The air filter is checked and flushed.
The chain is stopped by turning the T screw all the way (see chain oil).
To carry out safe repairs, you need to prepare a flat surface where you can neatly position the device and unscrew the chain in the opposite direction. Need a tachometer. It determines the presence of a malfunction in the carburetor. When turning the screws, the sound should be perfect and absolutely even. If screeching notes are noticed, then the mixture is oversaturated.
Setup Instructions
Carburettor adjustment is divided into two main stages. The first is called basic. It is made with the engine turned on. The second is performed when the engine is warm.
To carry out the carburetor setup procedure successfully, you need to familiarize yourself with the operating instructions for a particular model in order to identify additional features of the device settings.
First stage
The adjusting screws for the highest and lowest revolutions should be carried out clockwise until the highest resistance is encountered. When the screws reach the stop, you need to translate them in the opposite direction and leave when passing 1.5 turns.
Main stage
The chainsaw Makita dcs 4610 will not start
Spare parts for Makita chainsaws. Repair of the Makita dcs 4610 chainsaw, repair.
Makita (Dolmar) Interesting Case
The Makita / Dolmar chainsaw will not start. There is compression, the carburetor was changed. But an interesting case was discovered.
The engine turns on at medium speed and warms up like this for about 10 minutes. The idle adjustment screw should be clockwise. It is released only when the engine comes into stable operation. It must be ensured that the chain does not move during this process.
In idle mode, the engine may stall (the reason is here). In this case, immediately adjust the adjusting screw clockwise to the stop. Sometimes the chain begins to move. In this case, turn the adjusting screw in the opposite direction.
Acceleration Test
You need to do a little research. The acceleration of the device is initiated. It is necessary to evaluate the serviceability of the engine during maximum revolutions. When the engine is functioning correctly, then when you press the accelerator, the speed increases rapidly to 15,000 rpm.
If this does not happen or the speed increase is too slow, you must use the screw marked with the letter L. It turns counterclockwise. It is necessary to observe moderate movements, since the turn cannot be more than 1/8 of the full circle.
Maximum speed
To limit this figure, you need to use a screw marked H. To increase the number of revolutions, turn it clockwise, and to decrease it in the opposite direction. The maximum frequency must not exceed 15,000 rpm.
If you make this figure more, the engine of the device will run to wear, which will lead to problems in the ignition system. When rotating this screw, the ignition processes of the device must be taken into account. If the slightest glitches appear, then the maximum speed value must be reduced.
Final idle check
Before this procedure, it is necessary to perform a full adjustment of the components of the carburetor when operating at maximum speed. Next, you should check the operation of the device in idle cold mode. When the correct parameters are achieved during adjustment, you can notice the exact compliance of the carburetor design with the following criteria:
When the idle cold mode is connected, the circuit does not move.
When even pressing the accelerator a little, the engine accelerates at an accelerated pace. With a gradual increase in pressure, you can notice that the engine speed is proportionally increasing, reaching the maximum allowable values.
When the engine is running, you can compare its sound with a four-stroke device.
If violations are noted in the above parameters or the device was not fully adjusted, you need to perform the main setup step again. Sometimes actions are performed incorrectly. In this case, the device may fail due to the loss of the correct node settings. In this case, you will have to contact a specialist.
Dismantling the carburetor if necessary to check or repair the components
The device of different models of carburetors is almost the same, therefore, when working with them, you can use the standard scheme. All elements must be removed carefully and then laid out in the order below, so that you can successfully arrange the objects in place after the completion of the repair work.
Top cover removal
The top cover is removed. To do this, unscrew the 3 bolts holding it in a circle.
Foam is also removed, as it is the upper part of the filter that conducts air.
The fuel hose is removed.
The drive rod is displayed immediately on it.
The cable tip is disconnected.
The gas hose can be completely removed by steadily pulling it off the fitting.
Video: How to Clean a Makita Carburetor on a Lawnmower
To finally prepare the carburetor for overhaul or replacement of the smallest details, you need to carefully disconnect it from the main system. Sometimes it requires further disassembly. Unscrew the components carefully and fold the fasteners in groups, as these small parts are easily lost.
Instruction for chinese
To correctly configure the carburetor of a Chinese chainsaw, you must first remember the factory settings of the device, then turn on the engine. In the future, you will have to leave it to work for several hours to accurately set your own parameters. Sometimes work is performed once after a ten-minute operation of the engine, but many Chinese-made models require special handling.
Chinese model of chainsaw
Events begin at idle. Using the adjusting screws, you need to achieve a systematic set of revolutions by the engine, so you should first let it work at low speeds. A deviation from the norm is the movement of the chain along the bus. In this case, it is necessary to adjust the extreme position of the extreme screws so that the chain remains stationary.
The transition to medium speed revolutions. Sometimes the engine smokes at the same time. This defect can be eliminated by tightening the screw to supply a leaner fuel mixture.
In this case, the smoke will disappear, but the engine speed will increase. It is necessary to adjust the settings to the level where, when you press the throttle, the engine gains speed, sharp jerks or interruptions are not heard.
The device’s engine is being checked. The chainsaw is transferred to the minimum speed, and then a rapid pressing of the lever is carried out. With maximum pressure, it is held for 3 seconds. If there is a malfunction in the engine, you need to gradually loosen the screw until the optimum position is reached.
A chainsaw should work for several hours in real conditions. It is necessary to engage in sawing wood, and then perform an inspection of all the elements involved in this event. If there are deviations, they need to be corrected using adjusting devices. When all defects have been eliminated and optimal settings have been set for the supply of correctly concentrated fuel, the process of setting up the device can be considered completed.
Look at the video clearly:
Conclusion
In order for the chainsaw to work properly, it is necessary to carefully carry out work on adjusting the carburetor in exact accordance with their priority. If there are any malfunctions in the operation of the device, you must independently perform its complete disassembly. In most cases, replacement of any parts that have become unusable is required.
With a constant check of the quality of the carburetor settings and the implementation of timely actions to improve its operation, there are no problems with the chainsaw.
About which chainsaw to choose. read here.
Makita Chainsaw Carb Adjustment
Do-it-yourself carburetor adjustment on a chainsaw Adjusting the carburetor of a chainsaw ensures efficient operation of the tool at full power with economical fuel consumption. Hyundai lawnmower carburetor adjustment. Adjustment
Adjusting the carburetor of the chainsaw ensures efficient operation of the tool at full power with economical fuel consumption. Adjustment of revolutions of a stig lawn mower. Adjustment must be carried out with a clean fuel and air filter. Carburetor adjustment of Chinese lawn mowers. Carburetor adjustment of huter gas trimmer. For a larger number of carburetors, the adjustment is carried out by 3 screws: for high and low revs and idle adjustment.
The H and L screws adjust the gas to air consistency ratio determined by the opening of the carburetor throttle. Carburetor device on a lawn mower. When the screws are loosened, the consistency is enriched, and the revolutions accordingly fall; when the screws are twisted, the mixture becomes leaner. the revolutions increase.
The designation H refers to the highest-speed propeller controlling the main jet, L to the low-speed propeller controlling the idle jet. Setting the carboturator of the gas trimmer photon mk 4300. Adjusting the carburetor is a Japanese trimmer. Using screw S, the idle speed is clearly adjusted. Favorite carburetor carb adjustment. From time to time, to simplify the option, the number of carburetor adjusting screws available is reduced.
Setting the carburetor of the chainsaw is divided into two steps. the basic (factory options), carried out with the engine turned off, and the final one, made with the engine running warm. Adjustment of turns of a lawn-mower Makita. The precise angle of rotation should be taken from the operating instructions for a particular chainsaw. Carburetor adjustment of lawn mowers Euroscart. Failure to comply with the manufacturer’s annotations may result in damage to the motor.
The chainsaw Makita dcs 4610 will not start
Spare parts for Makita chainsaws Repair of Makita dcs 4610 chainsaws, repair
Makita (Dolmar) Interesting Case
The Makita / Dolmar chainsaw will not start. There is compression, the carburetor was changed. But a fascinating case was found.
Basic carb adjustment.
The adjusting screws of the largest H and small L revolutions are slowly turned clockwise until they stop, after which they are unscrewed by 2 turns, other options are also possible
Check and adjustment of idling.
We find the largest idle speed, for this, slowly turn the screw L in different directions. After finding the position of high engine speeds, turn screw L 1/4 turn counterclockwise. If at the same time the chain is spinning at idle, screw T or (S) should be turned just clockwise until it stops.
Checking and adjusting the highest number of revolutions.
The change in the largest number of revolutions is carried out by the screw H. When it is turned around (clockwise rotation), the turns increase, when turned out, they decrease. Carburetor adjustment of the Chinese trimmer. Husqvarna gas trimmer carburetor adjustment. Chainsaw engines have the highest rotation speed of 11,500 rpm. up to 15000 rpm Ignition does not provide a higher speed, in addition, it becomes unsafe for the motor. The maximum speed can be found by interruptions in the ignition. If they come, screw H slightly unscrew counterclockwise.
If the motor is not tested for acceleration and the highest revolutions, then the adjustment of the chainsaw cannot be considered complete.
With a smooth pull of the gas trigger, the engine must confidently and rapidly gain momentum from idle to the highest (from 2800 rpm to 11500-15000 rpm, depending on the unit). If rpm is slow, delayed, screw L must be slowly unscrewed counterclockwise, but less than 1/8 turn.
After adjusting the acceleration and the highest revolutions, you should again check the saw idle. the engine should work stably, the chain should not move. The setting of the chainsaw should be repeated if this condition is not performed but except for the basic adjustment step.
DIY Makita Chainsaw Repair
DIY chainsaw repair
All malfunctions of chainsaws can be divided into two main groups: problems of the engine with all its components and systems (ignition, fuel supply system, cylinder-piston group, exhaust system) and malfunctions of other components (chain brake, lubrication system, clutch, tire, etc.).
Engine malfunctions
the engine will not start;
Starts up, but stalls;
it is unstable;
does not develop power, i.e. normally works at idle, but stalls under load.
When repairing a chainsaw with your own hands, it is necessary to act as an exception. alternately inspect all the possible causes of the malfunction, starting with those that take the least time to check and eliminate (see here for the design and operation of the two-stroke motor).
Ignition system. Almost all types of engine malfunctions listed above can be caused by ignition system malfunctions. Therefore, when they occur, it makes sense to start troubleshooting with a candle. This is all the more justified because the state of the latter can provide useful information about the operation of the fuel system. So, if a problem occurs, you need to turn out the candle and inspect it.
The wire is disconnected, and the candle is twisted with a special key.
If the candle is dry, it means that the problem is most likely not in the ignition system, but in the fuel mixture not entering the cylinder. DIY chainsaw repair according to all the rules. You can wrap the candle back and take up the fuel system. If the candle is heavily sprayed with the fuel mixture, then there is an excess of it. Everything about repairing a chainsaw with your own hands carburetor adjustment saw homelite 4518. This may occur due to misregistration of the carburetor or violation of the start rules. The candle is wiped and dried, the cylinder is drained, cutting off the fuel supply and working as a starter. to vent the combustion chamber and remove excess fuel. To repair a chainsaw with your own hands, how to repair a chainsaw. Then set the candle in place and repeat the launch.
The presence of a large amount of black soot also indicates a malfunction in the fuel system.
The ratio between oil and gasoline in the mixture may be violated, the carburetor is not adjusted, or poor-quality oil is used. The candle is washed in gasoline, cleaned with a needle or an awl of carbon deposits, clean the electrodes with a fine sandpaper and put in place.
In all these cases, it is not superfluous to check the gap between the electrodes of the candle. Depending on its brand, it should be in the range of 0.5-0.65 mm. It is necessary to check the sealing gasket of the candle. If it is worn or damaged, the tightness of the combustion chamber may not be ensured, which leads to a decrease in compression in the cylinder and problems in the engine.
Even if in the case of checking the spark plug there is good reason to believe that the fault is in the fuel system, you need to check the spark plug for a spark. At least in order to be sure that everything is in order with this. For this:
put on the spark plug cable;
using pliers with insulated handles, apply thread or nut to the cylinder;
pull the starter handle and look. there is a spark or not.
If there is no spark, you just need to replace the candle. DIY chainsaw repair: lubrication system. As a rule, a chainsaw works in conditions far from cleanliness. If the new candle does not have a spark, it is necessary to check the condition of the high-voltage wire for an open and contact with the candle.
The reason for the absence of a spark can also be a faulty ignition module or a violation of the gap between it and the flywheel magnetic circuit. It should be 0.2 mm. Violation of the gap becomes especially likely if before that the saw was disassembled with the flywheel and the ignition module removed. The clearance is set using a 0.2 mm thick gasket placed between the flywheel boss and the ignition module. Defective ignition module must be replaced.
Having checked the ignition system in this way and not having detected a malfunction, we can proceed to the fuel mixture supply system.
Fuel supply system. If inspection of the spark plugs found that fuel does not enter the cylinder, you need to consider all the possible reasons for this. Do-it-yourself Makita chainsaw repair. It could be:
non-receipt of fuel from the tank due to a clogged hole in its cap (breather), while a vacuum is created in the tank that prevents fuel from flowing out;
contamination of the fuel filter installed in the tank;
not receipt or insufficient supply of fuel mixture from the carburetor to the cylinder.
To diagnose the first two reasons, it is enough to disconnect the fuel hose from the carburetor and see if fuel flows out of it or not. If it flows fully, the breather and filter can not be checked, if it does not or weakly flows, we can assume that the cause of the malfunction is found. The breather is cleaned with a needle. The fuel filter is removed through the filler hole of the empty fuel tank with a wire hook, together with a suction hose, from which the filter is disconnected and cleaned or replaced with a new one. Carrying out do-it-yourself chainsaw repairs, chainsaw repairs are not complete without cleaning. Chainsaw manufacturers recommend changing the fuel filter every 3 months.
Diagnosis of major breakdowns and repair of a Makita chainsaw
Diagnostics of the main malfunctions of chainsaws and repair of Makita chainsaws. As well as cleaning the carburetor chainsaw
The chainsaw Makita dcs 4610 will not start
Spare parts for Makita chainsaws Repair of Makita dcs 4610 chainsaws, repair
An insufficient supply of the fuel mixture from the carburetor to the cylinder or a violation of the correct ratio between the fuel and air mixed in the carburetor can occur for several reasons: due to clogging of the air filter, unregulated carburetor, clogging of its channels or mesh filter.
As a rule, repairing chainsaws is not complete without cleaning the air filter, since it gets dirty quite quickly. When this happens, air intake to the carburetor decreases, the fuel mixture at the outlet of it turns out to be too enriched, which disrupts the normal operation of the engine. Carefully remove the dirty filter for cleaning so that dirt does not get into the carburetor. The filter should be cleaned or washed in water with some detergent, dried and installed again.
Carburetor misregistration is eliminated by its adjustment. This is usually done with three screws. maximum and minimum idle speed and propeller. Adjustment must be carried out in strict accordance with the instructions, non-observance of which can lead to engine damage. Some saw manufacturers leave only one adjusting screw (idle). to exclude unwanted interference by inexperienced users in the carburetor. For an example of adjusting the carburetor of a chainsaw, see the article Working with a chainsaw.
If the carburetor adjustment did not help, you need to clean its channels and filter mesh, and at the same time check the integrity of the membrane. Carburetor. one of the most complex chainsaw devices, so proceed with disassembling and cleaning it with a full understanding of the responsibility of this operation. It consists of many small parts that have the peculiarity of quietly popping out of their seats and irretrievably lost, so that, having disassembled this capricious device, you can not assemble it.
Below is a diagram of another carburetor chainsaw.
If there is no experience and self-confidence, it is better to entrust the repair of a chainsaw carburetor to a service center specialist. Sometimes for high-quality cleaning of the carburetor it is necessary to apply ultrasonic cleaning.
Muffler. Often the cause of engine malfunctions, especially when the engine is operating normally at low revs and stalls under load, becomes clogging of the silencer’s spark arrester, which prevents normal exhaust, from the combustion products. Repair in this case consists in removing the muffler, disassembling (if it is collapsible) and wet cleaning it from soot using detergents. The non-separable muffler is dried with a hairdryer after washing. Remember that soot contains substances that are carcinogens, and dry cleaning, which may result in inhalation, is unacceptable. When removing the muffler, the engine outlet is plugged with a clean rag.
One of the reasons a muffler may clog. this is the use of a fuel mixture with an excessive amount of oil (the amount of oil is more than recommended by the manufacturer), and the use of either non-suitable oil for two-stroke engines or low-quality oil.
Cylinder-piston group. DIY repair of Husqvarna and Stihl chainsaws: video. Malfunctions of the cylinder-piston group are the most serious. This is the deterioration of the cylinder and piston, scratches and seizures on their surface, wear or sinking in the grooves of the piston rings, wear of the crankshaft bearings. Most of these malfunctions lead to a drop in pressure in the cylinder and, as a consequence, to the inability to start the engine, or its inability to give full power. There are several ways to assess the status of a cylinder-piston group (CPG).
You can remove the muffler and look through the opened window, in which a part of the side surface of the cylinder is visible. Despite the limitations of the review, a general idea of the state of the CPG in this way can still be obtained.
It is useful to measure the compression in the engine, which is quite informative regarding the condition of the parts of the CPG. Do-it-yourself chainsaw repair Start the do-it-yourself chainsaw repair from the chainsaw yourself. Everything about repairing a chainsaw with your own hands should be washed in a carburetor c. The operation is carried out using a compressor installed in the candle hole.
The crankshaft is rotated using an electric motor (drill) with a flexible shaft or manually by a starter, while controlling the pressure on the pressure gauge. The last for a workable chainsaw should be at least 8-9 atm (0.8-0.9 MPa). With its decrease, engine power also drops. At a pressure of 5 atm, the engine may perhaps work, but only at idle.
Accurately assess the state of the CPG can only be fully disassembled the engine. disconnecting the crankcase from the cylinder and removing the piston. If the latter has scuffs, chips or deep scratches, it must be changed. In relation to the cylinder, when developing or damaging the surface, it is possible to squander it under the repair size. The cause of low compression may be wear and coking of the piston ring. The serviceable ring should be clean of carbon deposits, sit in the piston groove freely and firmly pressed against the inner surface of the cylinder.
Chain lubrication system
With a significant (small is considered normal) oil leakage, it is necessary to check the tightness of the connection of the tubes to the pump fittings. They may fall or crack. Violation of the tightness of the oil pipe, in addition to sagging, can lead to insufficient lubrication of the chain. The pump begins to suck in air, which affects its performance. The leak is eliminated by replacing the tubes or sealing them with sealant.
The most serious damage to the lubrication system are cracks in the oil pump housing. In this case, it will have to be replaced.
Chain brake
Replacing Wear Parts
If you do not replace the wearing parts in time, their excessive wear will adversely affect the other parts of the chainsaw. In particular, if you do not change the tire and the drive sprocket in time, increased vibration will adversely affect the crankshaft bearings. The maximum depth of the tooth teeth should be 0.5 mm. In practice, sprockets are often operated up to a wear depth of 1 mm or more. not suspecting that this leads to an increased load on the crankshaft bearings and their accelerated failure. When 3-4 chains are worn, it is necessary to change the tire itself, by this time its wear reaches its limit values.
The chainsaw tire wears out especially in the area most often cut, usually. this is the underside of the guide rail. For uniform wear, each time the chain is replaced, the tire must be turned 180 ° relative to the horizontal axis.
When installing a new chain, a new drive sprocket should be installed. Since under normal load the service life of the drive sprocket is twice as long as the service life of the chain, it is advisable to use one sprocket for alternating operation of two chains. The main malfunctions of chainsaws and their repair do it yourself. Thanks to this, the sprocket and chains wear out almost simultaneously. If a new chain is placed on a worn sprocket, then the leading chain links wear out much faster. For cost-effective operation of the chainsaw, always spend together: one guide bar, two chain sprockets, four saw chains.
The best self-propelled models in terms of price and quality
3. Makita PLM 5113
This model has several operating modes, it is equipped with the latest Briggs engine&Stratton 6755EX SERIES, which boasts superior reliability. The model has three speeds of movement. 3, 3.5 and 4.5 km / h. The cutting height range is from 20 to 75 mm. The volume of the container for mowed grass is 65 liters, so the product can be used without interruption for a long time, without stopping to empty the grass catcher. There are reliable bearings on the wheels, the wheels themselves are made of durable plastic with a polymer coating, which is able to gently move along the surface of the lawn without crushing it. The case is made of powder-painted steel, it does not rust for a long time.
The engine is started according to the so-called easy start system. ReadyStart. For this, an ordinary starting cable is used, you do not have to make unnecessary movements. The engine speed is adjusted automatically. for example, their number increases with increased load, when you have to work with tall, dense or damp grass. Maintenance is simple; you can do it yourself. If necessary, change the air filter manually, without using special tools. The Super Lo-Tone silencer greatly reduces noise.
A fairly powerful device with three speeds;
It is relatively quiet and fast;
High-quality metal case.
Plastic clips are brittle, and if handled carelessly, they can quickly break.
2. CAIMAN Athena 60S
It is a design, the case of which is made of stainless steel, which makes it completely protected from the occurrence of corrosion processes. The model is quite heavy. its weight is 55 kg. If necessary, the height of the case can be slightly adjusted due to the special handle located on the side of the product. Such a constructive approach will allow you to cut the grass, not even paying attention to serious bumps in the terrain. At the front is a metal apron that protects the blades from stones. This metal plate is securely fastened to four bolts. The wheels are also made of stainless steel. The handle has an ergonomic shape, it fits comfortably in your hand, thanks to this the user can work with this tool for a long time.
The grass catcher itself is soft, but it has a hard top, its volume is 70 liters. Engine released by Subaru. The model is perfect both for beautiful manicured lawns, and for areas completely overgrown with weeds and weeds, whose height is over one and a half meters. The largest processing area of this product is 10 thousand square meters. Included is a nozzle for lateral ejection of grass. To install it, you will have to remove the protective front panel.
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Easily copes with lawn grass, and with thick weeds;
It feels excellent on uneven ground;
It is possible to collect grass in a container or use a side discharge system.
High cost, but with such a set of useful features this is not surprising.
1. Husqvarna LC 348V
In the production of this model, the latest AfTech system was used, which found expression in the device of the cutting knife. He initially raises the grass with air, and then cuts it at a height of 20 to 75 mm, depending on the selected settings. The air flow is then sent to the grass catcher, additionally crushing the mowed grass. This allows you to maximize the use of this design and extend non-stop operation. The cutting element is made of high quality galvanized steel. The model is self-propelled, rear-wheel drive, the wheels have an aggressive tread that carefully interacts with lawn grass without damaging or crushing it. The height of the haircut is adjusted using a single lever.
Each wheel has a twin pair of bearings that reduces vibration. Behind the back cover there is a service compartment, where you will have to look during the scheduled maintenance of equipment that can be easily done on your own.
The outgoing air stream is first directed to the ground, and then, together with the mowed grass, goes into a container for cut grass;
The grass catcher is very easy to clean;
Folding handle;
Carefully chopping the grass allows you to use it as mulch.
Speed adjustment is not very convenient.
Top 3 petrol wheeled lawn mowers
3. Viking MB 248
This semi-professional model can be used in areas up to 1 hectare, the manufacturer recommends it to be used both on personal plots and in the forest zone. In order to achieve the maximum efficiency of the equipment, you should use the model on smooth lawns, where there are no any mounds. This lawn mower easily cuts even fairly thick grass. The device is powered by the latest Briggs 405E series engine&Stratton. it is characterized by excellent quality and profitability during operation. Its capacity is 2.5 liters. sec., tank volume. 0.9 l. Due to this, the lawn mower is able to work without additional refueling for quite a long time. The volume of the grass catcher is 55 liters, absolutely all mowed grass gets into it. The model does not weigh too much. only 27 kg, so it can be easily managed alone, even loaded into the trunk of a car.
One of the main advantages of this lawn mower is its self-propelled device. you won’t have to push the device in front of you. Maneuverability is high, the model easily rotates in place at any angle, if necessary, the design can even be deployed. High-quality mowing, after processing there is a smooth lawn. The four-stroke engine, there are practically no exhaust gases, since the fuel burns out almost completely. There is practically no noise, the model is collapsible, during storage it takes up a minimum of free space.
The increased mowing width. 51 cm;
Easy to use;
Not too heavy.
There is no indicator that the gas in the tank is coming to an end.
2. Champion LM4215
This model is designed for plots whose area does not exceed one hectare. There are two mowing modes. mulching or collecting grass in a container. The width of the strip is 42 cm. The cut-off height switch is five-position. maximum height 70 mm, minimum 25 mm. Engine power is 2 liters. with. with an engine displacement of 99 cc see. Four-stroke internal combustion engine itself, has an air cooling system, does not overheat even in extreme heat. The grass catcher is reliable, made of dustproof material, its volume is 40 liters. To work with this device does not need any additional skills.
The rear wheels are slightly larger than the front, which increases maneuverability. This is not a self-propelled vehicle, so you have to push it in front of you, since it weighs not as much as other similar products. only 22 kg. During operation, it emits a small amount of noise, so it can be used near residential buildings.
For its engine size is quite powerful;
An easy start system is provided;
Gasoline and oil are poured separately;
Low noise.
It’s difficult to maneuver between trees.
1. Makita PLM4620
This is another semi-professional model, which is quite acceptable to use in medium or small territories, for example, in summer cottages. The model is very functional, weighs relatively little, and has excellent operational characteristics. This is a four-wheeled device of a non-self-propelled type. Its basis is a four-stroke carburetor engine, the power of which is 3.4 hp, and the launch is carried out by a manual starter, the number of revolutions of the motor is manually regulated. Overheat protection is air. A special emergency engine stop lever is provided.
The case is made of stainless steel, the thickness of which is 1.5 mm. The wheels are plastic, equipped with comfortable bearings. The rear ones are larger than the front ones in diameter. When transporting the model can be folded. The grass catcher has a plastic cover. The grass is trimmed using 4Cut technology, you can use the mulching function.
A sufficiently powerful design, able to cope with grass, the height of which reaches a meter;
It works pretty quietly.
In conclusion, the video
Well, our review has ended. We reviewed the most popular models, we hope that you liked at least one of them. If you still have any questions about any of the presented lawn mowers, then you can ask them in the comments. Your opinion is very important to us!
Video: Which Gasoline Is Suitable For Makita Lawn Mowers
The best gas mowers.
Today we have put together the three best gas mowers for you. Selpo.club. natural products without an intermediary.
The Makita petrol lawnmower engine is a four-stroke mechanism that has great power, economy, low noise, and durability.
Model PLM4620 belongs to non-self-propelled Makita gas mowers; it is equipped with a gasoline engine with a volume of 190 cm 3 and a capacity of about 2.3 liters. with.
The cutting height of such devices reaches a maximum of 75 mm, a minimum of 20 mm. The mowing width is 46 cm. The weight of the lawn mower is 29.1 kg. Self-propelled lawn mower: ranking the best. The main features of this model:
removable grass catcher (nylon), volume. 60 l;
mulching function (coating the surface of the earth with a special composition);
steel case;
system for quick and convenient change of cutting height;
wide tires of wheels on bearings.
The kit also comes with: grass catcher, knife, device for mulching.
See also
Electric Lawnmower With Reity Grass Collector.
Choosing an Electronic Lawnmower: Rating of the Best Models Advantages of Electric Models Today there is a large selection of lawnmowers (mechanical, electronic, gasoline, battery and hovercraft mowers). The best models for gasoline self-propelled lawn mowers.
Lawnmower Hyundai L 5500s Video.
HYUNDAI L 5500S petrol lawn mower The HYUNDAI L 5500S petrol lawn mower is a reliable gas mower designed for processing. HYUNDAI L 5100 S Test. a self-propelled lawn mower at the end of mow grass Grass mowing grass with open emissions (from the right and rear) up to 50 cm quietly. The best.
Lawnmower Viking Me 340 Video.
How to mow the VIKING ME 235 lawnmower? Link to the review of the VIKING ME 235 Electronic lawnmower. Overview of the VIKING ME 443 electric lawnmowerVIKING ME 443 Overview of the electric lawnmower after summer operation.
Lawnmower 4 X Stroke Video.
. OIL CHANGE IN Husqvarna Lawnmower 4-stroke ?? I have the first 500 subscribers! This video is tied to this number! It is time to service the gasoline lawn mowing machine. Repair and operation of engines with a vertical shaft! Some features of the operation of engines with a vertical shaft on…
If the total mowing area is not more than 1200 m 2, then this model of gasoline mowers made by Makita will do their job perfectly.
Lawn mowers petrol "Makita-PLM4620" are suitable exclusively for smooth lawns, without obstacles.
Now we will begin to consider the Makita-PLM5113 self-propelled model of gasoline lawn mowers. To begin with, it has three speeds and is equipped with a four-stroke gasoline engine (volume. 190 m 3, power. 3.1 liters. From.). Cutting height has the same values as the previous model. Cutting width is slightly larger. 51 cm.
The rear-wheel drive of the model allows the machine to move using one of the speeds. The device can move at a speed of at least 3 km / h and a maximum of 4.5 km / h. This “miracle” of technology weighs 37.5 kg.
Depending on the type of drive, the following models are available:
Manual mechanical lawn mowers. driven by the strength of our muscles, they are suitable for very small lawns. The devices do not require access to electricity, so they can be selected for processing a small area outside the city. During operation, care should be taken in case of rough terrain, which may complicate management.
Electric lawn mowers require access to electricity, so they can only be used in areas that have access to a power supply network. With their help, you can mow the grass on a medium-sized lawn; in the case of a very extensive garden, the cable length may be an obstacle to work. Even with an extension cord, the treatment area may not be fully covered. In addition, in the case of gardens with a large number of trees and shrubs, the cable can get tangled between plants, which makes it difficult to work. In these gardens, it is certainly better to choose a model that runs on gasoline.
The gas mower runs on gasoline and is a great choice for large areas.
The benefits of a gas mower
This device in comparison with manual and electric models has a number of important advantages:
allows you to mow a large area;
avoids the inconvenience of tangling the cable;
easy access to all corners, even very distant from buildings;
does not require access to electricity, it will show itself well in any area away from power networks;
characterized by high power, will be able to cope with very lush grass and weeds;
for her, an area with an uneven surface will not become an obstacle;
Due to its large working width, the machine works very efficiently and quickly.
Disadvantages of a gas mower
This device, in addition to numerous advantages, also has some disadvantages:
increased noise, the device emits much more noise than its electrical and manual counterparts; this can be a problem, especially if we are the owners of the garden in the middle of a residential development;
the second disadvantage of the device is the exhaust gases;
more problematic maintenance than other devices is the need for cleaning after use, periodic oil changes and engine maintenance.
How to choose a gas mower?
So, after a thorough study of the advantages and disadvantages, a gas mower was chosen, which model to choose and what to look for when buying? There are two varieties of such devices by type of movement:
manual wheeled. the cart with the device must be manually moved around the site; such a solution is cheaper, but the work is more tedious;
self-propelled. part of the torque from the engine is transmitted to the drive wheels, while the mower itself moves around the site, and the person only controls it; such models are the most popular and comfortable.
How to choose a self-propelled gasoline mower? This device works well in the case of gardens with a large number of trees and shrubs, and is also great for large lawns. First of all, you should focus on the ease of use of a particular model and some features.
Noise level is important, especially if people live nearby. Of great importance are additional functions and, of course, price. The dimensions of the blade should be selected depending on the density and density of the grass.
Cutting system selection
Another aspect that needs to be addressed is the choice of cutting system. There are models with one type of cutting or combined, with different types of removal of mowed grass: ejection, collection and mulching.
Lateral discharge is quite suitable for a lawn with tall, coarser and thicker types of grass.
In turn, the chopping and picking method is ideal when mowing often and the goal is to create the perfect lawn. Chopped, finely mowed grass can serve as fertilizer and mulching element, making the lawn more resistant to drought.
Which gas mower to choose. with or without wheel drive?
Before we move on to various models, which are also divided into subspecies, it is worth noting the distribution of lawn mowers into two types by type of drive:
without wheel drive, while the device for moving around the site must be manually pushed;
with a wheel drive that moves the trolley around the site, the person only controls it.
What are the differences between the two? The mower drive is very important for many reasons. Two categories have advantages and disadvantages and, of course, it is worth noting the conditions under which both types will work best. Let’s start with gas mowers without a wheel drive, for the price they are cheaper and less complicated to set up.
Non-powered petrol lawn mower
With such a device, there is not too much trouble, because in it there is nothing more to break apart from the engine and blades. This model is characterized by very simple mechanics. The operation of the device is very simple, all that needs to be done is to start the mower and push it forward, enjoying the view of evenly mowed grass. Most of us focus mainly on costs, but this design, in addition to saving, also gives many other advantages.
Advantages of a non-wheel drive gas mower:
The first reason people prefer to buy gas mowers without a drive is the lower price.
Low weight These mowers are lighter, which makes them most convenient for small areas and for women to work.
Small dimensions make it easier to control the mower, which is very important when cutting corners and "secluded" places. It is ideal for small gardens.
Wheel drive gas mower
A model with a wheel drive part of the torque from the engine, using a belt drive, transfers to the wheels, while the device itself moves around the site, and the person only controls this movement. Such mowers are heavier due to the drive device and more complex in design. However, they are an ideal solution when working with a large area.
Of course, a model without a drive means lighter weight, however, mowers still weigh a lot, so pushing such a device in front of you for many hours can be tiring even for strong gardeners, not to mention women. For this reason, if you have to process large areas, more often choose a drive lawn mower. However, it should be noted that these benefits can be quite expensive. Models of the best quality will be expensive. In addition, the mower with the drive is a rather heavy device, which is difficult to maneuver, so mowing the "nooks" will be quite troublesome.
Given these advantages and disadvantages, it can be concluded that self-propelled lawn mowers are a very good option for people who have no intention of maneuvering around seedlings and have a larger garden or lawn.
While some additional items can increase the cost of a lawn mower, they are also worth considering.
Mulching. This option implies, first of all, very fine grinding of grass. Thanks to this, you can get thinly sliced pieces of grass that can serve as a natural fertilizer for the lawn. Read the instructions carefully to properly operate the mower in mulching mode for best results. Mulching helps us to cultivate the lawn, weeds grow slower, in addition, evaporation of water from the soil decreases.
Tank (bag) for grass. If you plan to collect and dispose of mowed residues, a grass container will help you. Such a device can be attached to the side or back, as a rule the container comes with the device.
Lawn mowers. rating 2017
Lawn mowers can vary greatly in price. The cheapest portable models of trimmers will cost 3,500 rubles, simple wheeled models without a wheel drive are available for 10,000 rubles. The difference between some models can be very significant. However, it should be remembered that very cheap models have very cheap parts. For this reason, it is better to get around these products because they can bring a ton of worries.
expensive devices are made by well-known companies such as Stihl, Stiga, Bosch, Makita, NAC. In addition, they are equipped with more durable engines Briggs, Honda, or other well-known brands. Another reason why you should not choose the cheapest models is their lower performance, as well as their inability to withstand mechanical damage and low resistance to corrosion. You should also pay attention to service and warranty.
The assembly of any mechanism should begin after careful preparation. It is necessary to prepare not only parts, but also tools, a place, a lubricant.
Of the tools can not do without pliers, screwdrivers, a hammer, a brush for applying lubricant.
But what is the assembly scheme of the Makita 2450 and 2470 rotary hammer?
Do-it-yourself assembly of a Makita rotary hammer can only be carried out subject to the attached instructions.
The task of the assembly process is to replace the parts that have gone out of order with fit parts and to ensure interchangeability and operability of the tool.
Assembly order for Makita 2450 rotary hammer
Shock assembly
How to assemble the hammer mechanism of a Makita punch? The impact mechanism is assembled from two nodes: the shaft shaft with a spur gear and the intermediate shaft with a rolling bearing.
A). A spur gear pos. 19 is put on the barrel pos. 21 and pressed by a compression spring pos. 18. For fixing, the spring is pressed by the washer 30 pos.17 and secured by the circlip 28 pos.16.B) To assemble the striker, put on the ring 9 pos. 25 on the striker shaft, tighten the rubber ring pos. 26, press down with the metal ring pos. 27.
Now go to the opposite side of the barrel pos.21. On the other hand, the inner surface of the barrel must be greased and inserted into the assembled drummer pos.24.
Assembling the intermediate shaft and piston
Assembly of the intermediate shaft assembly
To assemble the intermediate shaft, it is necessary to put the rolling bearing pos. 41 on the shaft pos. 40 with teeth to the splines of the shaft, put the coupling pos. 39 on the splines of the shaft.
Translational motion
On the opposite side of the shaft, a helical gear 26 pos. 42., A flat washer 8 pos. 45, a bearing 608zz pos. 46 and a snap ring 8 pos. 47 are put on. The intermediate shaft is assembled.
Gearbox Assembly
The gear unit is mounted on the inner housing, item 49.
Inner casing
By the way, there are cases when the axles pop out of the inner aluminum case. Both axles are pressed into the housing.
The assembled intermediate shaft is inserted into the housing, pos. 49, the rolling bearing arm of which must fall into the hole of the cylinder hinge.In this case, the lever of the rolling bearing pos. 41 of the intermediate shaft must fall into the hinge of the cylinder pos. 32, and the lower bearing of the intermediate shaft in the socket in the housing. This procedure is usually carried out by rocking the structure until the parts completely get into the indicated places.
Setting the mode lever
The mode switch is designed to translate the clutch pos.39 in various positions and transmit translational motion to the shaft of the shock mechanism through the rolling bearing pos.41 to the cylinder pos.32.
Assembly of the lever of the switch of the regimes of the puncher of Makita 2450
On the axis of the inner case, put on the lever of the mode switch pos. 82, pressurizing spring pos. 88 on top, and press down with a flat washer pos. 87. Install the snap ring pos. 86. and fix. The snap ring must be carefully fixed. Turning the intermediate shaft, it is necessary to carefully check the correct operation and free movement of the cylinder in the housing. This must be done now so that it does not become clear at the end of the assembly that the assembly was not assembled correctly.
Assembly of the shaft of the percussion mechanism
First, lubricate the inside of the cylinder, pos. 32, and insert the drummer, pos. 30, into it.
It remains to put the oiled barrel assembly in pos. 49 into the inner case pos. 21 in place, putting it on the oiled cylinder pos. 32. As lubricants, it is recommended to use a special grease developed for Makita rotary hammers. Lubricants are available in several types: Makita P-08361 and Makita 183477-5 SDS-PLUS. Makita 183477-5 SDS-PLUS grease is recommended for the gearbox. For drill shanks, Makita 196804-7 brand grease is used.
Lubricants vary in color, but have exactly the same characteristics. What lubricants are used in the Makita 2450 and 2470 rotary hammer?
And here is the assembled mechanical block.
Video of the general disassembly and assembly of the Makita 2450 rotary hammer
Check its performance by rotating the countershaft and controlling the movement of the piston in the percussion mechanism. Everything!
Now lubricate all parts of the mechanical unit with the recommended lubricant. Here is an example of proper lubrication on rotating surfaces.Here is another example of a generous lubrication of a mechanical unit.
Do not spoil the porridge with oil
So it is also allowed to apply grease. Do not spoil the porridge with butter!
A lubricated mechanical unit must always be closed with a plastic case, item 14, in black. Having placed the housing on top of the assembly, press the housing down until the assembly is completely fixed in it. Backwardness, insert the four screws, pos. 10, into the housing and tighten.Now it’s the turn of joining the mechanical part of the rotor of the electric motor.
Rotor installation
The helical gear of the rotor is firmly inserted into the body of the mechanical unit and pressed.
It remains to insert four self-tapping screws m4 × 60 pos. 57. and screw them into the body of the electrical unit.
Installation of electric brushes
Remove dirt from the grooves of the brush holder and put the brushes in place, fixing them with latches.
Now is the time to check the performance of the punch. Connect the punch plug to the outlet, turn on the punch for a while in the "drilling" mode. After making sure that the tool is working, turn it off. Set the mode switch to the “punch” position. Do not insert the tool. Check the performance of the rotary hammer in this position. At the same time, you checked the operation of the mode switch.
It remains to check the installation of the speed control knob, make sure the contact connections are reliable and you can proceed with the installation of the cover plate.
Cover installation
The cover is fastened with three self-tapping screws M × 4 of different lengths.
Connect the rotary hammer to the 220Β network and check in all modes. The Makita 2450 or 2470 rotary hammer is assembled and working properly!
Makita 2450 rotary hammer diagram
DIY Makita 2450 punch repair manual
Hammers are called percussion drilling devices designed for drilling and chiselling holes in particularly strong materials. Two ideas are implemented in the puncher: the working tool rotates and immediately moves longitudinally, creating a shock impulse.
Hammers always work in extreme conditions. The duration of the drill depends not only on the correct operating criteria, but also on the reliability of the parts included in the product.
But no matter how hard you try, over time, punchers begin to fail.
To properly repair the hammer, you need to study its device. Repair of the Makita 2470 and 2450 rotary hammer can be performed independently by a person who owns the capabilities of a locksmith and understands the basics of electrical engineering.
Remember! Compliance with safety regulations and disconnect hammer drill from the network during parsing.
Makita 2450 and 2470 rotary hammers are assembled practically according to a similar scheme and from among the same parts. Repairing them is no different. For ease of repair, the assembly diagram and catalog of parts for Makita rotary hammers are given below.
The Makita 2450 and 2470 rotary hammer circuit consists of a mechanical and electronic part.
The mechanical part provides the transmission of torque to the drill bit, creating immediately translational movement, creating a shock. The mechanical part consists of a rotation drive and a percussion mechanism.
The electronic circuit of the Makita rotary hammer provides the conversion of electronic energy into kinetic through the rotation of the rotor. The electronic part includes an electric motor, a power button with a speed controller, a reverse switch, connecting wires. The main makita rotary hammer malfunctions The malfunctions of the rotary hammers are divided into electronic and mechanical.
Next, we will examine our client remains the faults of the electronic part of the Makita 2470 and 2450 rotary hammers and methods for their elimination:
Electronic malfunctions of the Makita 2450 and Makita 2470 punchers Electronic malfunctions appear in such that when the punch is connected to the mains voltage, the tool does not cut. The connection scheme of the Makita rotary hammer to the network is ordinary.
The electronic circuit of the Makita 2450 rotary hammer is essentially a serial connection of the electric motor, start button and wires. The layout of the Makita 2470 rotary hammer is similar.
Through the connecting cord, pos. 72, the 220 V supply voltage is supplied through the switch pos. 68 and electronic brushes through the brush holder pos. 66 to the lamellas of the electric motor rotor pos. 54, and through the contacts of the reverse switch pos. 60 to the stator winding pos. 59. The most common malfunction is the lack of contacts in the connections.
The procedure for determining electrical faults
Video: Disease Makita HR 2470 Finished cutting into the puncher 2470 Burned contacts maintenance tool
Determination of the integrity of the electronic part of the Makita rotary hammer. If you set a goal to repair a Makita 2450 rotary hammer or a Makita 2470, you yourself need to arm yourself with devices and equipment. Any tester, a set of screwdrivers, wrenches, a hammer, a wooden extension will work. It is great to have a screwdriver with an integrated phase indicator.
You need to take the tester, connect to the ends of the punch plug and press the punch switch. If the tester indicates some resistance, then the power supply circuit of the punch is intact.
If the tester indicates infinity, then the integrity of the circuit is broken and it is necessary to remove the back cover to control the connecting cable and electric brushes of the punch.
The back cover (usually dark) of the punch is easy to remove, you just need to unscrew the three screws with a screwdriver or screwdriver.
Remove the cover and use a screwdriver to disconnect the ends of the wires from the electric brushes. Using a tester or a home-made device, also called an “arch”, determine the integrity of the lead wires and the correct operation of the switch.
A few words about the ordinary control device, the name of which is "arcade". The device consists of an LED or a bulb from a flashlight, a finger-type battery and 2 pieces of wire. The entire electronic circuit of the control device is alternately connected parts. Connect the battery with one end of the LED, in other words light bulbs, connect wires to the free ends of the LED and the battery. You will get a universal device for checking the integrity of electronic circuits.
Relevant malfunctions of the Makita 2450 and 2470 rotary hammer Common faults in the electronic part of the Makita 2450 and Makita 2470 rotary hammer:
fracture of the supply cable at the entrance to the perforator;
breakdown of the TG813TLB-1 switch button, art.650508-0, pos. 68.;
wear of electronic carbon brushes SV-419, art.191962-4, pos.65;
short rotor closure 220-240 V, art. 515668-8, item 54;
breakdown of the stator winding 220-240 V for HR2450, art.633488-5, pos. 59.
For the start button, the switch TG813TLB-1, art.650508-0; pos. 68.
Substitution of the brushes is done with their complete abrasion or bad contact. This malfunction is found by strong heating of the points where the electric brushes are installed.
Video: Disassembly of the Makita 2450 Hammer Video
The failure to turn on the punch you like more is caused by the abrasion of the contacts on the reverse switch. This malfunction is eliminated to pain simply.
Makita rotary hammer reverser repair
When repairing the reverse switch, the back cover must be disconnected. Carefully disconnect the wires from the button. Look closely at the switch.
The upcoming disassembly consists in removing the brush holder, after having previously released the brushes themselves. Removing the brush holder, you will get to the contacts of the reverse switch.
Determine its condition, if necessary, change the contacts.
Additional, often encountered electronic malfunction, bad contact between the stator and the lower contacts of the reverse switch.
Repair contact between stator and reverse switch
To remove the stator, you need to disconnect the gear housing (dark color) from the stator housing (greenish color).
Remember! In the mechanical part of the rotor, the bearing is pressed by a special ring. When disassembling, do not lose it.
The stator is located in the greenish case. Having visited the middle, you will see two self-tapping screws 4 × 60, art. 266334-3, pos. 57, securing the stator to the housing. Unscrew them, remove the plastic protection of the stator for HR2450, art. 419201-3, pos. 58., Release the stator. When you get the stator, you will see the contacts on the stator and the reverse switch panel.
Carefully clean the contacts with sandpaper, treat with solvent or alcohol.
Before assembly, bend the contacts so that they fit tightly into each other. Lubricate the contacts with a technical Vaseline in a thin layer.
The assembly of the electronic part of the punch is done in reverse order.
Makita 2450 rotary hammer disassembly instruction
A hammer drill is a percussion drilling tool that immediately performs the function of percussion and drilling equipment while working with particularly strong materials.
The device used two ideas at once: the tool spins and moves longitudinally, transmitting the impulse of impact to a solid surface.
Hammers always operate in extreme environments with the highest degree of dust.
The uptime is affected not so much by the operating conditions, but by the quality of the components included in the tool.
Makita 2450, 2470 rotary hammers are reliable tools of high-quality work. Even the most reliable tool requires proper care and timely maintenance.
To perform maintenance on Makita 2450, 2470 rotary hammers, you must certainly become familiar with the internal contents of the tools that make up the components. A real annotation will help you find out the weak spots of a Makita punch.
To carry out repairs of the Makita 2450, 2470 rotary hammer in artisanal conditions, a person with locksmithing capabilities and knowledge of electrical engineering is allowed.
Remember! Carrying out repair of the puncher it is necessary to observe safety measures during the work with electric devices.
Makita 2450 and 2470 rotary hammers are assembled practically according to a similar scheme and, in fact, from similar, interchangeable parts. Repairing them is no different.
Type of punch Makita 2450
For ease of repair, the assembly diagram and catalog of parts for Makita rotary hammers are given below.
Makita 2450 rotary hammer assembly diagram
The device of Makita 2450 and 2470 punchers
The Makita punch conditionally consists of electronic and mechanical parts. At the same time, the mechanical assembly of the punch is located in a dark plastic case, and the electronic part of the punch is hidden under a greenish plastic case.
The procedure for disassembling the mechanical part of the punch
The mechanical assembly is designed to transmit the rotational moment of the shaft to the tool, creating not so much torque and translational shock impulse.
The task of the mechanical assembly is to transmit rotation from the rotor to the tool, while simultaneously providing the tool with longitudinal movement.
Disassembly of the punch begins with the removal of the quick-detachable cartridge.
Even very reliable Makita rotary hammers break down over time. Any breakdown is eliminated, you only need to have straight arms and perseverance. In addition to electrical malfunctions, rotary hammers are also subject to mechanical breakdowns.
Content:
The work of rock drills with solid materials in a dusty environment shortens the life of the machine and requires user intervention for repair.
Repair of the mechanical part of the Makita 2450 and 2470 puncher
Any repair of the tool begins with the determination of the nature of the malfunction and disassembly.
A Makita 2450 and 2470 rotary hammer can be repaired by a user with basic locksmithing skills and knowledge of electrical safety requirements.
This article discusses the mechanical part of the Makita puncher, the main malfunctions and how to solve them.
Dismantling the mechanical part of the Makita 2470 rotary hammer
To get to the mechanical part of the punch, you need to remove or disassemble the cartridge.
Dismantling the quick release chuck Place the hammer drill on the back of the cabinet on the surface of a table covered with a clean cloth or paper.
Using tweezers or a screwdriver, remove the rubber tip 35, item 1.
Carefully loosen the annular spring, pos. 2, the clutch cover, pos. 3, the steel ring, pos. 4. You will reach a steel ball with a diameter of 7 mm, pos.20.
Now you can remove the case of the mechanical part It is black. Using a screwdriver, unscrew the four screws at the end of the case.
Holding the black case with your right hand, press the end of the shaft from which the cartridge was disassembled with your thumb. The plastic case is easy to remove.
Next, remove the gearbox shaft.
To disconnect the mechanical part from the electric, you must first remove the electric brushes. Remember! In the lower part of the body, the rotor is held by electric brushes, which must be removed.
After checking that the electric brushes are disconnected from the lamellas of the rotor, use a screwdriver to pry the metal case of the perforator at the border of the green plastic case.
Now we proceed to disconnect the rotor from the mechanical part of the punch
pa The rotor is held in the mechanical part due to helical gears of the gearbox. If you take the rotor case in one hand, and the mechanical part in the other case and pull it in different directions, swinging, you will separate these two nodes.
You get such a knot in the old grease.
Next, unscrew the two M4 × 12 bolts, pos. 43, using the hexagon, item 2666273-7 with the internal hexagon head. Pull out the shaft with the intermediate spur gear 10 pos. 80, art.226399-7. from the inner case pos. 49, art. 153687-8.
How to repair a Makita hammer drill
Clean parts from old grease.
You get such a mountain of clean details.
Now carefully review the details, immediately discard the rubber rings, picking up new ones. Replace defective parts with new ones.
Mechanical makita 2450 and makita 2470 rock drill
Common mechanical problems with Makita rotary hammers include:
destruction of the quick-release cartridge;
bearing failure;
breakdown of the shock mechanism;
punch barrel wear;
wear of rubber strikers and striker;
gear breakage.
Repair of the perforator cartridge is done to replace the anther and rubber ring, as well as the conical spring and the steel ball, which provides clamping of the working tool (drill). What does the working tool indicate? namely, the drill is poorly held in the cartridge.
The main reason is the wear of a steel ball 7.0 pos.20, art. 216022-2. Ball wear occurs from contamination of the barrel of the cartridge due to ingress of dust and dirt.
The general view and arrangement of the Makita rotary hammer cartridge is shown in the photo below.
Do-it-yourself makita 2450 rotary hammer cartridge repair is easy to do. The cartridge must be disassembled, freed from old grease, discard rubber parts, replace defective ones.
complex failures require knowledge of the mechanical design of the Makita 2450 rotary hammer.
Having determined the nature of the malfunction of the Makita rotary hammer, proceed to disassemble the mechanical part called the gearbox.
Disassemble the mechanical part according to the attached video. Release it from the old grease. Carefully inspect all parts, their integrity, level of wear. All rubber products during any disassembly require replacement.
Consider repairing a perforator barrel. We will analyze the mechanism completely. Video disassembly, lubrication and assembly of the Makita rotary hammer
Video: Makita 2450 rotary hammer bulkhead
Repair of parts of a shaft of the Makita 2450 puncher
Remember! In the lower part of the body, the rotor is held by electric brushes, which must be removed.
At the next stage, the rotor must be disconnected from the removed mechanism. The rotor is disconnected from the mechanism simply by pulling out, because it is held by the friction of two helical gears.
It turned out such a dirty knot.
Now you need to separate the shaft of the percussion mechanism.
Most often, rubber rings, striker poses wear out. 24, compressor spring pos. 18. and cylinder parts.
Here’s how barrel parts wear out and collapse during improper use of the tool.
Consider the most difficult malfunction. failure of the shock mechanism. The characteristic signs of failure of the impact mechanism is the absence of impact and the unpleasant noise of a working punch in the “Impact” mode.
Video: A moment of vandalism) (21) Makita HR 2450 rotary hammer Strong impact in impact mode
Such a malfunction is typical for those perforators that during operation were pressed strongly against the work surface. Having disassembled the gearbox, we remove debris and pieces of foreign objects. We find the defective part and clean everything from the old grease.
Very often the striker pos. 24 is destroyed, art. 324396-8, which is part of the trunk.
metal ring pos. 27. art. 324216-6.
Discard damaged parts, replace with new ones, cover with a thin layer of grease. Parts are ready for assembly. But more on that in the next article.
How to repair a Makita HR 2450 hammer drill if the shock mode is lost
Makita power tools have long established themselves as professional, reliable and easy to maintain. In addition, it has good maintainability and a relatively low price.
Of all the ruler ranges, I would like to dwell on the Makita HR 2450 model. The tool is very convenient in operation, has three operating modes and withstands very long loads. For the author of these lines, the puncher worked faithfully for more than six years without damage. over, it was used in intensive loads.
But as you know, nothing eternal happens. And reliable technology breaks down. Once, in the midst of work, he stopped pecking. In the rotation mode, the machine worked, and the blow suddenly disappeared.
The gearbox was disassembled and the cause of the breakdown was identified. A sleeve was broken in the barrel body, in which the striker (striker) directly performs shock work.
How to repair a Makita HR 2450 hammer drill if the shock mode is lost
As a result, the drummer stuck in the fragments of a collapsed sleeve.
The service center advised to replace the barrel completely. It turned out that the sleeve is pressed into the barrel at the factory and is not supplied separately. I had to buy a whole new barrel.
In this article, the author will tell you how to bring the puncher into working condition after this, in general, simple breakdown. If you have the skills to repair a power tool and the desire not to pay someone your hard earned money, then we take the tool and begin disassembling the car.
Instruments
It will take two ordinary flat head screwdrivers and one Phillips screwdriver. One of the flat screwdrivers should be thin and narrow, not more than 4 mm wide. You will also need a wire hook to remove the snap ring. It can be made from a bicycle spoke, the main thing is that the wire is rigid and does not easily bend. A rubber mallet or wooden mallet will also be needed.
Work process
Disassembly of the punch should begin with the removal of the protective rubber cap. anther. It is easily removed, just take it with your fingers and pull it off the barrel.
Then, having pressed on a plastic cover and having squeezed a spring of a lock of the SDS mechanism, we remove a lock ring with a screwdriver.
Using a screwdriver, remove the stopper
The lid is removed from the barrel, and after it, again compressing the spring, we pull out the retainer ball along with the spring and figured washer.
SDS disassembly
Then the mode switch is disassembled. Under the cover holding the red button-lock, there is a special groove for the screwdriver. After inserting a screwdriver into this groove and prying off the lid slightly first from one edge and then from the second, carefully remove it. No significant efforts should be made here, the cover is still plastic and may break. The red button along with the spring is removed from the switch housing and it is moved to the left until it stops, a little further than the drilling mode. It is from this position that he is removed from the gearbox. For this operation, the switch should be slightly picked up with thin screwdrivers on both sides and removed together with the rubber O-ring.
Remove the punch mode switch
Now the gearbox is removed. Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the four bolts connecting the box to the stator housing. Then, holding it with your hand, you need to lightly tap with a mallet on the end of the barrel so that the box comes off the gearbox.
Remove the gearbox
Having removed the box, we take out the barrel from the gearbox. It is removed easily.
We take the barrel out of the gearbox
It is necessary to remove old grease with a rag, and rinse the barrel with gasoline or kerosene and wipe it dry.
So, as mentioned above, it was necessary to completely change the entire trunk. However, this item purchased at a service center was “a goal like a falcon”. That is, there was absolutely nothing on it and I had to rearrange all the details from the old barrel to a new "blank".
The most difficult operation was extracting the drummer from the barrel. There are special holes in the barrel body through which the snap ring is visible. This ring holds the striker in the saddle with rings and rubber dampers. Insert a thin screwdriver into the hole, slightly bend the ring. We do this first on the one hand, and then on the other. The stop must come out of the groove.
Using two screwdrivers, squeeze the stopper
Then, from the inside, we pull out the stopper from the wire with a homemade hook into the light of God.
Using a wire hook, pull out the stopper from the inside
Next, we remove the striker with washers and rubber rings. It is necessary for assembly to remember or sketch the location of all rings and washers. If something goes wrong, photos and drawings from the article will help.
Now you need to remove the gear from the shaft. Having pressed on a washer and having squeezed a spring, with a thin screwdriver it is necessary to remove a lock ring from a flute. After removing it, remove the washer, spring and gear from the barrel.
Remove the gear
The gear wheel is put on a new barrel and engages with splines. Following it, a spring with a washer and a stopper are installed. Insert the circlip and lock the mechanism in the working position.
To do this, take the barrel in both hands and, resting it in the palm of your hand, use your fingers to compress the spring with force, while shifting the washer and stopper down. It is necessary to compress until the stopper engages in the groove.
Then, a striker with washers and rubber rings is installed inside the barrel in the order in which he understood. But first you need to pay attention to the condition of the drummer, his appearance.
If the striker has potholes and sinks after long work or because it has been scratched on a broken sleeve, then it should be sanded a little.
To do this, it is clamped into the drill chuck and processed with a fine-grained emery cloth. But if the bumps are too big, then the drummer will be easier to replace.
Assemble shock mechanism
It is necessary to lubricate the striker with special grease before installation and to continue to use lubricant during operation. When inserting a drill into the hammer, it is necessary to apply a little grease to its shank. This extends the life of the machine.
Having installed the striker mechanism in the barrel, we fix it with the circlip. We try using a screwdriver to move the drummer from both sides inside the barrel. He should walk easily in the canal and not jam.
Putting a new barrel
The assembled barrel is installed in the gear housing. Putting it on the cylinder with a piston, we engage it with the pinion gear and insert it into the housing. All parts should be well lubricated during assembly.
Install the barrel in the gearbox
Then we install the gearbox, after lubricating the needle bearing. With four bolts we draw the box to the stator housing and set the operating mode switch in place. To do this, set it to a position slightly to the left of the drilling mode. We insert the red latch button with the spring and move the switch to the drilling mode. We click on the plastic cover and check the operation of the switch.
Set the mode switch in place
We snap the cover of the punch mode switch
Then, in a final chord, the SDS mechanism is assembled. Having installed the mechanism spring, we put on a figured washer and insert the ball. Then we squeeze the mechanism spring with a plastic cover and insert the snap ring. Putting on a rubber boot is no longer difficult.
Having pressed a spring with a washer, we establish a ball a clamp
Install the SDS engine
We try a hammer drill under load. When the machine is operating, there should be no extraneous noise in the gearbox; the operating mode switch should easily move without jamming. In general, everything should work, as before the breakdown.
The author of this article hopes that it will help dear readers understand the repair of a hammer drill. Any breakdown can be simple if you find its cause. And then it all depends on your skill and diligence.
2 comments on How to repair a Makita HR 2450 hammer drill if the shock mode is lost
In the construction industry, the use of Makita rotary hammers is a must. The value of this technique is difficult to overestimate; it is indispensable when working with concrete, stone or brick. All extremely durable materials lend themselves to the onslaught of this versatile tool. In everyday life, Makita punchers are used for drilling holes in concrete and stone, for the manufacture of openings, recesses, cable channels in walls and in the floor.
Device
The Makita rotary hammer has dual motor protective insulation. Among the required structural elements is a trip clutch that prevents jerking when the drill is jammed, and electronic speed control. Corporate identity indicator. the instrument is equipped with a convenient suitcase for storing the instrument.
Most models are equipped with a dust extraction system and come with a soft rubber pad on the handle. The assortment includes Makita rotary hammers, both with a direct and vertical arrangement of the engine.
Principle of operation
It can perform 3 functions: drilling, drilling with impact, chiselling.
Makita hr2450 punch disassembly video
Depending on the number of functions performed, they are divided into three groups:
single-mode. perform drilling with impact, for example, Makita HR 2010.
dual-mode. drilling and drilling with impact, or drilling with impact and chiselling. The most popular hammer drill is. Makita HR 5001 C can drill with a blow or hammer.
three-mode. switch to any operating mode. For example, Makita HR 2450.
With SDS Plus, single, dual and tri-mode rotary hammers weighing up to 5 kg are available. Characteristic: power up to 850 W, impact force up to 5, 3 J, drilling diameter in concrete 18-30 mm.
With the SDS max cartridge two- and three-mode models in weight from 5, 9 kg are offered. Characteristic: power 1100-1500W, impact force 8, 3-17, 5J, maximum drill diameter 40-50mm, crowns 105-160mm. Advantages: high power and low vibration.
Shop "Makita. "Is the official dealer of the Japanese company and offers a wide range of Makita punchers with a manufacturer’s warranty and delivery. Professional managers who have completed training courses will help you choose the best model!
We offer Makita rotary hammers throughout Russia: Moscow, St. Petersburg, Yekaterinburg, Chelyabinsk, Nizhny Novgorod and many other cities with delivery and warranty, call! You can find out detailed information about the conditions and cost of delivery from our managers.
A jackhammer is a tool designed for heavy loads. Nevertheless, he is not insured against breakdowns. Let’s look at some of the most common problems with the work of electric jackhammers from Makita and Hitachi.
DIY electric jackhammer repair
Repairing an electric jackhammer is no easy task. In order to fulfill it, you need to understand: as a rule, repair of a hammer consists of two main stages:
Defect. the definition of a problem node that has already failed or its resource is close to zero.
Replacing defective parts.
Of course, it will be more correct to repair the electric hammer that needs it and contains a certain supply of working resource. It is necessary to determine this so that the repair does not turn into a waste of time, effort, money, and the tool after the repair has worked for a certain period.
The market provides a limited list of spare parts. As a rule, these are springs, valves, air distribution units, strikers. Therefore, not every failure can be eliminated without contacting the service. Nevertheless, some problems that can still be solved with your own hands, it makes sense to consider.
It will be right to note that if you take into account the Chinese electric hammer, then in case of breakage you should not count on successful repairs. They are often disposable due to the poor quality of materials used in the manufacture.
Consider the classic repair plan:
Dismantling and removing contaminants from a jackhammer.
Identification of a defect (if it is not obvious).
Repair or replace damaged parts.
Tool assembly.
Health Check.
As a rule, such a plan is used by highly qualified service employees who do this professionally. We are considering the possibility of repairing with our own hands, and, as a rule, this moment comes when the problem is obvious and needs to be addressed immediately. So, we will consider some of the most common breakdowns of electric jackhammers for models of giants firms “Makita" and "Hitachi", which you can do yourself.
Hitachi jackhammer repair
One of the most common problems with the chipper". this is clamping the peaks in the trunk. As a rule, the cause is wear of the locking bodies, but a banal peak defect is not excluded.
Video: How to Disassemble a Makita Jackhammer
In order to fix the problem, you must follow the following algorithm:
The top cover (protection) is removed.
The snap ring is removed.
Accumulations of dirt are removed.
The gland is removed (at this stage, the peak will fall out of the trunk).
Inspection of the locking body. If there are obvious signs of wear on it (the edges are rounded), then it must be replaced.
Inspection of the splines of the trunk. In normal condition, they have a clearly square shape. If they have an acute shape, then the trunk requires replacement.
Worn item replacement and assembly.
Hose clogging. As a rule, it occurs due to a fracture. Solving the problem will not be a big problem. It is only necessary to find the damaged area and remove it. Unfortunately, if removing the part will lead to unnecessary shortening of the hose, it will have to be replaced completely. The list of tools to fix this problem is minimal:
knife;
clamps of the corresponding size.
Repair of jackhammers of "Makita"
Often there is the problem of an increased frequency of impacts with a weak single impact.
Cause: overestimated clearance between barrel receiver and distributor.
To fix the problem, you must:
Detach hammer and muffler.
Remove retaining ring and retainer.
Screw the link to the dead point.
Despite the reliability of the tool and the efforts of the manufacturer, often there is a problem with the contact node of the barrel end and valve box. The problem is resolved if the unit is cleaned on time.
Lubricant for an electric jackhammer
An electric jackhammer is a tool that has a fairly reliable seal, since its operation is designed for extreme conditions. Lubricant replacement may not be performed for a rather long period of time even with active use of the tool.
When the time has come for a replacement, it is done according to the following algorithm:
An important point! Safety: Turn off the tool before starting the replacement procedure. Make sure the plug is not plugged in to prevent electric shock.
The crank mechanism is removed, after which it is necessary to remove the old grease.
The introduction of a new lubricant in an amount of 30 grams.
Reinstall the crank housing.
An electric jackhammer is far from the most difficult tool. For its long-term work, minimal maintenance and attention is required. The list of problems in work is quite limited, with the main part of them you can figure it out with the help of the article.
A screwdriver does the same as a screwdriver, but hundreds of times faster. Therefore, if you need to tighten one or two screws, use a screwdriver. But if you need to assemble a wardrobe or, for example, insulate with BAL-KON drywall, then you can not do without an electric screwdriver. It looks like an electric drill, but it does not drill with drill bits, but with bits. The bat is a special nozzle for a screw, screw or self-tapping screw. Each screw (screw, screw) has its own bit. It can be of different sizes.
A screwdriver is like an electric drill, but instead of a drill, it has a bit.
How to use a screwdriver?
The screwdriver is designed specifically for screwdriving, self-tapping screws, screws. Its great advantage is autonomy, that is, there is no need for an outlet and the cords will not interfere underfoot. It runs on a battery that charges from the AC mains through the adapter (the process of charging the battery resembles the process of charging a mobile phone). After charging, the battery, gently pressing, insert into the tool handle.
Batteries are nickel-cadmium, nickel-metal hydride and lithium-ion. Which one to choose? Nickel-cadmium. the cheapest, but toxic. Lithium-ion is environmentally friendly but expensive. Nickel-metal hydride is intended for professionals who, on duty, have to repair for a long time.
Replaceable tips, bits, are fixed in a three-jaw chuck manually no deeper than the upper edge. To make it more convenient to hold the cartridge in hand when attaching the nozzles, the cartridge is covered with ribbed rubber on top.
How to use a screwdriver.? After the necessary nozzle is installed, we put a self-tapping screw on the bit, put it in the right place, press the screwdriver button. the self-tapping screw is twisted.
The screwdriver can be used as a standalone electric drill. They cannot be drilled for a long time, as the battery runs out quickly. But a few holes in the profile or drywall can be done.
Nevertheless, the main purpose of the screwdriver is to tighten the screws without drilling the profile. With a certain effort, a self-tapping screw will drill both an aluminum and even a steel profile.
On the instrument, if necessary, there is a button for smoothly changing the speed and a reverse button, if you need to unscrew the self-tapping screw.
The instruction prescribes to use a screwdriver after all the settings are made.
When the tool is on, you cannot adjust the frequency and direction of rotation of the handpiece (bits). The tool must be protected from water. The room in which repairs will be carried out should be well lit.
Video: How to Insert a Bit into a Makita Screwdriver
If the screwdriver is operating from the mains, the power supply must be stable, and the socket must be in good working order, in order to avoid electric shock or fire.
Do not touch grounded objects with a working tool in order to avoid electric shock.
It is only necessary to work with a working tool in work clothes and gloves. Do not use the device continuously to prevent it from burning out.
How to work with a cordless screwdriver
Naturally, the main feature of the cordless screwdriver is its mobility in operation. You can use it in places where there is no electricity or access to it is limited. When performing various kinds of installation, furniture assembly and other works, a screwdriver will become an indispensable assistant. The presence of a second battery in the configuration allows you to continuously work with a screwdriver, using one and charging the second. When operating any tool, it is necessary to remember the observance of safety precautions, as well as its proper use, which will be discussed later.
To start working with a screwdriver, you need to fully charge the battery, it doesn’t matter if it is Makita or an inexpensive Chinese tool. Well, if the screwdriver has an indication of the battery level, which will make it convenient to use the battery. To start charging, you must connect the charger to the network. the green indicator light will turn on. The battery has a special groove, due to which it can be inserted into the charger only in the correct way, which will protect the battery from reverse polarity. The battery must be installed tightly so that the contacts of the charger and the battery fit snugly together.
After installing the battery in the adapter, the red indicator lights up, which signals the charging process. When charging is complete, the indicator changes color to green. After fully charging, install the battery in a screwdriver. So. you can get to work. It is worth noting that the color of the indicators may vary from different manufacturers, however, the process itself is always just that.
A distinctive feature of the screwdriver is the presence of an adjusting ring, which is responsible for the torque. This feature allows you to avoid excessive screwing or disruption of the screw slot. Thanks to a special mechanism, the cartridge stops when the screw is tightened, and the engine continues to work. The adjustment ring can set the drilling mode. In the remaining positions of the regulator, the clutch will begin to slip at a certain force. The engine speed switch (if any) allows you to use two speed modes with a lower or higher speed.
An absolutely necessary thing in a screwdriver. This switch is used to change the direction of rotation of the cartridge. In the central position, the switch blocks the pressing of the start key. In the remaining two positions, the cartridge will rotate clockwise and against it, which allows you to screw and unscrew the screws. This key is always located above the start button so that you can change the direction of rotation of the cartridge with your thumb and forefinger without using your second hand.
Installing bits in a cartridge
Screwdrivers can have a plastic or metal keyless chuck, which greatly simplifies the process of installing the bit and removing it, but many models have hexagonal chucks, i.e. allow you to directly insert a bit or snap without twisting. To fix the drill or bit in the keyless chuck, insert it into the screwdriver until it stops and tighten the chuck by hand. You can also, holding the front of the cartridge, pull the trigger and the cartridge will unwind.
Storage, maintenance and cleaning The drill and charger do not require any special maintenance. It must be stored in a dry place that is not exposed to low temperatures and direct sunlight. You must regularly check the integrity of the device, and make sure that the mounting bolts are tightened. Use a damp cloth for cleaning. Do not use active solvents or aggressive chemicals, which can damage the screwdriver. Keep the device in good condition, which will extend its service life, keep the batteries in a warm place, cooling in the winter can negatively affect the quality and service life of the batteries.
