The Drill Falls Out Of The Drill Chuck What To Do

All types of hammer cartridges, as well as maintenance, repair and replacement of components
An article about hammer drill cartridges. What are the types: for drill, SDS, quick-clamping, with a key, clamping and others. How to remove, disassemble and change the cartridge. How to service the device. Care recommendations.

Clamping with one sleeve

One type of keyless chuck, but only one hand is needed to tighten the bit. But it can only be used on a tool that supports the function of automatic fixing of the working shaft.

All types of hammer cartridges, as well as maintenance, repair and replacement of components

A hammer drill is a device designed to punch holes using a combined method: impact plus rotation. The drill works like a hand chisel driven by an electric motor.

At the same time, the chuck for a perforator undergoes serious loads in different planes, therefore it has a special device and methods for its maintenance.

  1. Device
  2. Kinds
  3. SDS cartridge
  4. Toothed-girth key
  5. Quick-clamping
  6. Clamping with one sleeve
  7. Transitional
  8. How to remove, disassemble and change the cartridge
  9. Service
  10. About attachments
  11. Care
  12. Conclusion

About attachments

There are several types of drills and other rock drill bits:

  1. Standard straight drills. Needed for drilling holes in brick, concrete or stone.
  2. Crowns. Needed to create not very deep, but wide holes. For junction boxes for wiring and other things. For concrete, it is better to use diamond-tipped bits.
  3. Chisels. Can be used to dismantle tiles or other similar work. The tip of the drill is not hardened, you will have to sharpen it periodically.
  4. Lances. Often used to create pipe holes.
  5. Drills in the form of blades. For creating channels for electrical wiring.

The main part of the nozzle is the shank. It is he who is inserted into the punch cartridge. It is made of alloy steel and has high strength. The shank is marked with the type of nozzle.

The working part is made of special steels for long-term contact with particularly hard non-metallic materials: concrete, stone.

The shape depends on what the attachment is used for:

  1. Auger. Needed to create deep holes of different diameters.
  2. Bits with a small slope of the spiral grooves are best used for a large number of shallow holes. Doesn’t require much effort during labor.
  3. Drills with a large angle of inclination of the spiral grooves. Can be recommended for high-speed work in order to make a small number of sufficiently deep holes.

If the cartridge is removable, then after work it is imperative to remove it and wipe the inside with a rag: the elements can be cleaned of dust and old grease using a long screwdriver, around which a rag should be wound.

It is recommended to apply new grease before use. It is needed to combat friction, which leads to a decrease in impact power and unnecessary heating of parts.

How to remove, disassemble and change the cartridge

The cartridge is removed either for disassembly, repair and maintenance, or for replacement if restoration is not advisable.

Since the clamping devices are attached approximately the same, the dismantling principle will also be similar.

The cartridge is usually removed for maintenance, repair and lubrication of rubbing elements. To work, you need a small set of screwdrivers and a vice.

  1. It is necessary to remove the protective part of the casing from the side where the end of the retainer is located.
  2. The ring behind the trim should be moved with a screwdriver.
  3. Remove the washer behind the ring.
  4. Then you can remove the second ring using a screwdriver.
  5. The washer should be moved down (towards the body) together with the spring.
  6. Remove the metal ball using a screwdriver.
  7. Gently release the spring washer while pulling out the cartridge itself.
  8. If the purpose of disassembly is to replace the retainer, then you will have to remove the lower part of the chuck together with the sleeve: you need to unscrew the locking screw that holds it to the spindle. Now it is easiest to clamp the bushing in the jaws of the vise and unscrew it from the spindle (using a suitable size wrench). Install new parts in reverse order.

If it is necessary to carry out revisions, cleaning and applying lubricants, step 8 can be skipped. Reassembly is carried out step by step. From point 8 to point 1.

If the chuck is of the gear-crown type, then the dismantling sequence will be different:

  1. Open the jaws as far as possible.
  2. The chuck is installed on the working currency of the punch (or drill) and is fixed with a center screw. It must be unscrewed.
  3. After that, you can unscrew the cartridge itself. On some older models, the clamping device was attached to the tapered shaft (not on the thread), if such a piece of equipment came across, the cartridge is simply knocked down with a hammer, not too strong, but sharp blows.

Assembly should be done upside-down.

Service

After removing the cartridge, it is almost disassembled. The removed parts should be carefully examined for signs of damage. This is especially true for retainer balls. Replace them if required. There should be no traces of chips on the spring. Retaining rings sometimes break, and if the manufacturer has used low-quality steel, they can bend.

During the inspection, it is recommended to rinse all metal parts with kerosene or gasoline. When assembling the chuck, apply grease to its parts.

Toothed-girth key

A standard type often found on electric drills.

They differ in that a special key is required to clamp the drill / drill, the shank of which has an ordinary cylindrical shape without any grooves.

Drills and drills are secured with three jaws.

Not suitable for drilling large holes as the drill will constantly rotate in the chuck.

What are the drill bits for a hammer drill

Before buying, you should compile for yourself a short list of parameters that are really important for understanding which drill for a hammer drill you need to choose:

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Drill sizes / dia. This indicator depends on the type of work and the material being processed;

Shank. There are several standard sizes. It is important that it is compatible with the existing instrument;

Manufacturers. There are first-class drills produced by renowned manufacturers. They are not cheap, but reliable and durable. It is worth purchasing them for responsible and professional work. If you have to drill several holes, then it is better to find cheaper components. There are companies that offer inexpensive consumables for power tools;

Soldering. At the very tip of the drill there is a soldering from a hard special alloy. This tip increases the drilling speed and keeps the tool longer;

Types of grooves. The helical grooves on the bore can be of different types. For a professional unit, they are made with a ledge at the bottom or under a bevel. In everyday life, the grooves are semicircular.

The main parameter by which the nozzle must be selected is the shank. It is called the lower part of the rod, clamped in the tool holder. They are released according to several standards:

SDS-plus. This size is 10 mm in diameter and recessed into a 4 mm socket, such as Bosch SDS-Plus 12×165. It is used for household appliances of low power;

SDS-max. It is used in professional high-performance tools, ∅18 mm, and the clamping depth in the chuck is 9 mm, like Bosch SDS-Max 16×400 / 540 mm;

SDS-top. Practically not used (except for some old Bosch models) format with a diameter of 14 mm;

SDS-quick. Applies exclusively to Bosch Uneo and UneoMax units, in hexagon configuration.

If it suddenly turns out that the hammer drill has an SDS-max connector, and the drill has an SDS-plus, do not worry. There are special adapters that will allow you to use a different standard size.

The Drill Falls Out Of The Drill Chuck What To Do

Important information: Which of the 2 types of rock drills is better. Vertical or horizontal?

How to choose a drill for a hammer drill: 5 tips

Punch drills are officially produced by not so many companies. But in any building supermarket, you can find dozens of brands offering accessories for punchers. It is not worth buying the first set that comes across, focusing on the advice of the seller. It may well be of poor quality, or even completely fake.

In order not to waste money, it is better to first familiarize yourself with the key parameters and functional characteristics of the drills, read the opinions of users and select a tool that has earned the trust of specialists. So how to choose a drill for a rock drill?

What are the attachments

Many craftsmen value a hammer drill for its versatility. It can easily replace a drill or bump stop. You just need to insert the corresponding attachment. The set offers several types of tips:

Boers. They can be centering and traditional. The former are adapted for puncture accuracy, without breaking the hole. Traditional, cross-brazed, suitable for all materials and more suitable for chiselling.

Crowns. Ideal for wall chipping. If you need to hide the wiring or hollow out a place for an outlet, then it is better to use crowns. Varieties of crowns:

Removing the cartridge from the punch: repair, replacement

For professionals, replacing or repairing a hammer drill cartridge is not difficult. But what about those who are not engaged in construction and repair at a professional level? Since any man during his life at least once held a drill in his hands, he must be sure to be aware of the process of removing and replacing her cartridge.

How the punch chuck is disassembled

In the process of disassembling the cartridge, the manufacturer must be taken into account, since the disassembly of the punch cartridge is significantly different. Today, the list of popular ones includes:

  • Chucks for bosch hammer drill;
  • Chucks for the makita hammer drill;
  • Cartridges for perforator interskol.

Consider the disassembly process using the example of a cartridge for a perforator from Bosch:

  1. Move aside the plastic part, remove the rubber seal.
  2. Using a screwdriver, carefully remove the retaining ring.
  3. Then the locking washer.
  4. There is a second ring behind the puck. It must be turned and removed by prying with a screwdriver.
  5. The SDS clamp is located behind the plastic part, which consists of a spring, washer and ball. First you need to remove the ball, then the washer and spring.

The cartridge is disassembled for various purposes in the form of:

  • Repair;
  • Replacement of individual parts;
  • Cleaning;
  • Lubricants.

The chuck for the Makita hammer drill is disassembled identically, with the exception of certain nuances that are taken into account from the chuck design.

Punch chuck device

Almost any construction tool is versatile, and the hammer drill is no exception. There are many different attachments, cartridges, adapters for them. The basis for any work is the patron. The hammer drill adapter is used to mount a drill directly removed from a conventional drill. Both attachments and drills have a huge variety and are selected in accordance with the tasks at hand.

At home, you must always keep a replaceable chuck for a perforator, since at any time one may well fail. It should be noted that for each type of work it is better to use different cartridges. The main types of cartridges:

  • Quick-release: perfect for frequent change of attachments during operation;
  • Key: intended for large drills.

To know how to repair a hammer drill chuck, you need to study its direct structure. At one time, the drill was fastened using movable cams, but progress does not stand still. In SDS, the drills are held in place with 2 guide wedges and 2 locking balls. The difference between SDS-plus and SDS-max is only in the number of guide wedges. So, the fastening is reliable and fast.

The fixing of the nozzle itself has been simplified: it is necessary to insert the selected nozzle into the socket of the cartridge, slightly press, wait for a click. So, the nozzle will be well fixed. And removing the drill is not particularly difficult: you need to press the movable cover, as a result of which the drill will be removed.

Additionally, the punch can include components in the form of:

  • Speed regulator;
  • Electronic reverse;
  • Brush reverse;
  • Quick change systems;
  • Immobilizer;
  • Indicators;
  • Anti-vibration system;
  • Friction clutch.

Removing the cartridge from the punch

First of all, you need to determine which cartridge is used in your rock drill. The chuck can be cam, SDS collet and quick-clamping. The latter, in turn, is one- and two-sleeve. In the chuck, the drill is fastened with a key, which cannot be said about SDS collet, quick-clamping. To replace the drill in the SDS collet chuck, you only need to turn it.

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Replacing the chuck on the hammer drill should be started by examining the mountings. It is held by a screw rod or a spindle. In most cases, removing the cartridge is not difficult. However, sometimes a stronger fixation is encountered, requiring patience, as well as additional tools. The firmly fixed chuck can be removed with a hammer, wrench and screwdriver. Withdrawal takes place in this way:

  • You need to knock on the screw head to loosen the fixation;
  • Unscrew with a screwdriver;
  • Clamp the chuck in the wrench / vise and rotate the spindle.

Replacing the chuck on the hammer drill ()

As noted earlier, not every chuck will fit every drill. We examined how the process of removing and disassembling the cartridge is performed. To install a new cartridge, you need to perform the following steps in the form:

  • Screwing the cartridge onto the drill;
  • Inserting the screw into the socket;
  • Tightening the screw with a screwdriver.

How the punch chuck is disassembled

In the process of disassembling the cartridge, the manufacturer must be taken into account, since the disassembly of the punch cartridge is significantly different. Today, the list of popular ones includes:

  • Chucks for bosch hammer drill;
  • Chucks for the makita hammer drill;
  • Cartridges for perforator interskol.

Consider the disassembly process using the example of a cartridge for a perforator from Bosch:

  1. Move aside the plastic part, remove the rubber seal.
  2. Using a screwdriver, carefully remove the retaining ring.
  3. Then the locking washer.
  4. There is a second ring behind the puck. It must be turned and removed by prying with a screwdriver.
  5. The SDS clamp is located behind the plastic part, which consists of a spring, washer and ball. First you need to remove the ball, then the washer and spring.

The cartridge is disassembled for various purposes in the form of:

  • Repair;
  • Replacement of individual parts;
  • Cleaning;
  • Lubricants.

The chuck for the Makita hammer drill is disassembled identically, with the exception of certain nuances that are taken into account from the chuck design.

Removing the cartridge from the punch: repair, replacement

For professionals, replacing or repairing a hammer drill cartridge is not difficult. But what about those who are not engaged in construction and repair at a professional level? Since any man during his life at least once held a drill in his hands, he must be sure to be aware of the process of removing and replacing her cartridge.

Removing the cartridge from the punch

First of all, you need to determine which cartridge is used in your rock drill. The chuck can be cam, SDS collet and quick-clamping. The latter, in turn, is one- and two-sleeve. In the chuck, the drill is fastened with a key, which cannot be said about SDS collet, quick-clamping. To replace the drill in the SDS collet chuck, you only need to turn it.

Replacing the chuck on the hammer drill should be started by examining the mountings. It is held by a screw rod or a spindle. In most cases, removing the cartridge is not difficult. However, sometimes a stronger fixation is encountered, requiring patience, as well as additional tools. The firmly fixed chuck can be removed with a hammer, wrench and screwdriver. Withdrawal takes place in this way:

  • You need to knock on the screw head to loosen the fixation;
  • Unscrew with a screwdriver;
  • Clamp the chuck in the wrench / vise and rotate the spindle.

Punch chuck device

Almost any construction tool is versatile, and the hammer drill is no exception. There are many different attachments, cartridges, adapters for them. The basis for any work is the patron. The hammer drill adapter is used to mount a drill directly removed from a conventional drill. Both attachments and drills have a huge variety and are selected in accordance with the tasks at hand.

At home, you must always keep a replaceable chuck for a perforator, since at any time one may well fail. It should be noted that for each type of work it is better to use different cartridges. The main types of cartridges:

  • Quick-release: perfect for frequent change of attachments during operation;
  • Key: intended for large drills.

To know how to repair a hammer drill chuck, you need to study its direct structure. At one time, the drill was fastened using movable cams, but progress does not stand still. In SDS, the drills are held in place with 2 guide wedges and 2 locking balls. The difference between SDS-plus and SDS-max is only in the number of guide wedges. So, the fastening is reliable and fast.

The fixing of the nozzle itself has been simplified: it is necessary to insert the selected nozzle into the socket of the cartridge, slightly press, wait for a click. So, the nozzle will be well fixed. And removing the drill is not particularly difficult: you need to press the movable cover, as a result of which the drill will be removed.

Additionally, the punch can include components in the form of:

  • Speed regulator;
  • Electronic reverse;
  • Brush reverse;
  • Quick change systems;
  • Immobilizer;
  • Indicators;
  • Anti-vibration system;
  • Friction clutch.

Replacing the chuck on the hammer drill ()

As noted earlier, not every chuck will fit every drill. We examined how the process of removing and disassembling the cartridge is performed. To install a new cartridge, you need to perform the following steps in the form:

  • Screwing the cartridge onto the drill;
  • Inserting the screw into the socket;
  • Tightening the screw with a screwdriver.

The reasons

There are several main reasons why this malfunction can occur.

Among them, there are two most common:

  • Jamming of the drill in the chuck or in the buffer element (it is used when installing a conventional drill bit);
  • The drill is stuck in the punch clamp.

In the first situation, a malfunction occurs due to the need to use a drill, which is needed for the device to function. To insert it, a special element is used. A transitional chuck (the same part is used for an electric drill). It is usually placed in the clamping element of a hammer drill and then started to work.

After completing the work, it may be difficult to pull out the nozzles due to their tight fixation by the lips of the clamping hole. In this situation, there is a simple and quick solution, because the problem arises from improper operation of the clamping mechanism. Many users forget (or simply do not know) that it needs to be lubricated periodically. For this reason, jamming occurs.

The second situation occurs due to the element getting stuck in the punch itself. The nozzle of an electric drill rotates in a circle, and in some devices it also performs reciprocating actions. This is because the tool body transmits an impulse through the bottom of the chuck and the lips of the chuck.

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But in the hammer drill, the energy is transmitted according to a different principle, therefore, the nozzles move along a different trajectory. This tool assumes rotational impact and impact vectors of the rig movement. Energy is supplied to the tool through the striker, which is included in the movement after the start of the operation of the power unit connected to electricity. Such a firing pin acts on the shanks of tools inserted into the chuck using mechanics (drill, drill, chisel, crown).

There are special grooves on the attachment that are securely fixed in the clamping element. This allows them to provide torque transmission. Cheap tips are usually made from low-quality materials and soft alloys that cannot be heat treated. Because of this, the tails become unsuitable for further use, since they cannot withstand such a load. In this situation, you will most likely have to completely disassemble the tool.

How to remove a broken drill

The drill can not only get stuck in the tool chuck, in some cases it breaks. Then only the shank from the nozzle has to be removed from the device. In this situation, thin-nose pliers will help. Conventional pliers will not cope with the task, since they cannot be opened inside the cartridge.

The pliers should be inserted into the punch with little force. Then they need to be slightly opened, grab part of the broken off drill and pull it out. You can first remove the rubber band from the tool to make it easier.

If the device has not jammed the shank, then the chuck is pulled towards itself and the crushing mode is activated. The puncher is positioned upside down. Due to the vibrations that appear, a piece of drill will fall out on its own. If none of the methods helps, you will have to disassemble the puncher.

What to do if the drill gets stuck in the drill and how to pull it out correctly?

Construction and repairs involve the use of a huge number of devices, a special place among them is the perforator. Using this tool, holes of different sizes are made in any surface, as well as buildings made of stone, concrete and iron are dismantled. Sometimes situations occur in which it is impossible or very difficult to pull the drill (or a piece of it) out of the hammer drill. Therefore, any person who is engaged in repairs needs to know how to pull out the drill without harming the device. And for this, you should study in detail the prerequisites for the occurrence of a malfunction.

  1. The reasons
  2. The ways
  3. How to remove a broken drill
  4. Recommendations

The ways

First of all, you should try to take the drill in a vice.

Then the punch is pulled in the opposite direction, while making swinging movements.

When performing these actions, the cartridge itself must be open.

If the drill is not stuck too tightly, this will quickly fix the problem.

The second method also involves the use of a vice. After clamping the drill, you need to start the reverse on the device at the maximum possible power. In this case, you cannot constantly keep the device turned on, you should press the start button with short breaks. Otherwise, due to long-term operation in this mode, the punch may break.

After the wedging of the tool occurs, you need to try to sharply pull the puncher out of the vice. Then they will contain only a drill, which will not be useful for further use. Instead of a vice, you can use a thick wooden board. Then the drilling mode is switched on on the hammer drill with the reverse switched on. Drilling should be done until the tool “bites”.

Otherwise, you should try the third method. To do this, clamp the puncher itself in a vice. During the execution of the action, you need to be especially careful not to damage the body of the tool. You can make a kind of gasket: lay the puncher with rubber or a similar material. After that, you should take a gas wrench (if it is not available, other small vices will do). The tool itself is clamped with it. Now the key is tapped with a copper hammer in the direction opposite to the chuck

The fourth method also involves the use of a vice. After clamping the tool, you need to start reverse on it at the maximum possible power. In this case, you cannot constantly keep the device turned on, you should press the start button with short interruptions. Otherwise, due to long work with a broken shank, the hammer drill may break.

There is no single disassembly scheme for a hammer drill, since each model is made according to an individual scheme. If a person has experience in disassembling tools, then he can try to do it himself. First, the upper rubber cover on the chuck is dismantled, and then the retaining ring, which is located under it, is removed. If there is a fear that the tool will be damaged during disassembly, resort to the help of a service center.

Recommendations

If, after completing these actions, the drill passes through the shank without obstruction, then the rock drill is of high quality. If there is a deformation of the nozzle, then it will be quite easy to pull the drill out of the mechanism. The main thing in this case is to act quickly, otherwise the right moment will be missed. After all, the jam will be serious, and it will take a long time to get the nozzle.

Drill jams occur due to the use of an expensive and high-quality device together with cheap equipment on a hard surface.

A burr jam in a hammer drill is a common problem that every construction worker faces. It happens for several reasons. Most of the time, sticking occurs due to the use of cheap tools or equipment for them. It is better to play it safe once again and take all possible measures to prevent the problem. If it has already occurred, they try to remove the drill from the perforator using a vice. No need to be afraid of getting stuck! When you can’t get the drill yourself, you should contact the service center for help.