The Hammer Drill Does Not Hold The Drill In The Chuck

Removing the cartridge

Dismantling the punch begins with removing the cartridge. As a rule, this is an SDS-plus system cartridge, which can be disassembled using a flat-head screwdriver. In this case, the cartridge does not have to be brown or chisel.

There are times when the drill gets jammed and it is not so easy to get it. Then you need to gently tap the cartridge around the circumference with a rubber hammer and pour a few drops of WD-40 type grease inside. After a few minutes, try again, the drill should be easily removed. After that, you can start disassembling the cartridge itself. Procedure:

Pull the plastic skirt down.
Remove the rubber protective boot with a screwdriver.
Spread and remove the retaining ring located behind the boot.
Remove the plastic boot, spring, lock plates and balls.
Remove old grease from all parts and place in a clean place.

How to remove a stuck in a drill chuck. How to remove and change brushes

The carbon brushes of the collector are replaced with an electrical screwdriver. If you unscrew the cover, you will get access to the brushes. Each part is removed one by one from the sockets of the brush holder. In some models, the device of the pressure mechanism differs, as a rule, it is a spiral spring, which must be removed during replacement.

Makita Rotary Hammer Chuck Disassembly Procedure

Punch chuck repair begins with installing the punch vertically on the rear housing cover. The hrMakita perforator diagram will help you to correctly perform the disassembly work.
Is it necessary to replace the chuck of the Makita 2470 hammer drill? The answer can be obtained only after complete disassembly of the cartridge with your own hands.
Using a screwdriver or a puller, the boot is removed, the cartridge is freed from the retaining ring, the coupling casing, the metal ring 20 pos. 4. Next, you need to carefully get out the ball, pos. 20, remove the guide washer, pos. 5, and the conical spring, pos. 6, which supports it. Cartridge disassembled.

The Hammer Drill Does Not Hold The Drill In The Chuck

The diagram below shows the device of the punch chuck.

The main malfunctions of the makita 2450 rock drill that cause defects in the chuck are:

Wear of a protective rubber boot pos. 1;
Loosening of the retaining ring pos. 2 or its partial wear;
Ball wear, pos. 20;
Loss of elasticity of the conical spring pos. 6 or its extension.

Repair of a hammer drill chuck is not a complicated procedure and, as a rule, is easily performed by any person who can hold a screwdriver in his hands.

If replacing a rubber boot, retaining ring, conical spring is NOT difficult, then replacing a new ball requires attention. The new ball should have a diameter size of 7mm ± 1 micron.
As a lubricant, it is recommended to use a special lubricant developed for the Makita hammer drill.
The grease has the index Makita P-08361, Makita 183477-5 SDS-PLUS 30g for the gearbox. It is recommended to use Makita grease 196804-7 for drill shanks.

Assembling the cartridge, conical spring Install with the narrow side to the punch.
Do not forget, repairing a hammer drill cartridge with your own hands requires care from the collector.

How the start button changes

To replace the start button, you must remove the cover that covers the electrical equipment of the rock drill. Then you should disconnect the contacts of the conductors connected to it, and pull the button body out of the seat. Install a new button in this place, connect the contacts and assemble everything in the reverse order.

Punch device and its mechanism

Unlike a drill, as well as an impact drill, the hammer drill has an enhanced impact function, which puts it an order of magnitude higher in situations where it is necessary to apply significant mechanical impact on the materials being processed.

This is achieved by the design features of the perforator device. The device is equipped with an independent mechanism for generating a powerful pneumatic push of the working tool, and this ability of it frees the master from the use of physical efforts when drilling and chiselling concrete and stone.

Sectional punch hammer mechanism

The conversion of the rotational motion of the electric motor into the translational vibration of the percussion mechanism is performed by creating compression between the pistons. This movement is transmitted to the drummer. The striker, made of high strength steel, in turn sends the energy of compressed air directly to the working tool. a drill, chisel or blade. Such a device of the unit allows you to increase the impact power in a huge destructive force. 20 kJ.

Depending on the location of the engine, drill-shaped and barrel types of perforators are distinguished.

The first type of device is similar to a drill, in which the motor is located in the same axis with the drill.
In rock drills of the second type, the motor is installed perpendicular to the drilling axis.

The drill does NOT hold in the chuck and flies out

Punch rig incontinence can occur during prolonged use. Tempest or chisel inserted into the chuck instead of holding and flying out during operation. Such a tool is not only impossible to continue chiselling, it is also very dangerous. a chisel flying out can cause injury.

Tool incontinence is caused by wear or breakage of the chuck. The cartridge must be disassembled and the problem identified. Perhaps the balls are deformed, a wear on the stop ring has appeared, or the fixing spring has subsided. Usually, after replacing the damaged part, the chuck starts functioning normally again.

Malfunctions in the Electrician: the motor does not rotate, the brushes on the collector spark, and other types of breakdowns

The following symptoms indicate problems with the electrical part of the rock drill:

The motor does NOT rotate when turned on;
The brushes on the collector will spark intensely;
The smell of burnt insulation comes from the body;
Acrid smoke escapes from the tool during operation.

In order to find out and eliminate the cause of all THESE phenomena, the puncher must be disassembled.

We disassemble the gearbox

To get to the mechanical part, you will need to remove the plastic case.

The procedure for disassembling the mechanical part of the Makita rotary hammer
First, the protective black plastic case is removed. The case is removed after you Unscrew the four screws securing the case from the end.
Pressed on the end of the shaft, you give the gearbox out of the housing.

After removing the housing, it is necessary to separate the rotor from the gearbox. The gearbox is the general mechanical part.
The rotor is separated from the mechanical part (gearbox) simply.
Clamp the gearbox with your right hand, clamp the rotor with your left.
Wiggle, pull both parts in opposite directions. The rotor is held in the gearbox by friction of helical gears.
The main malfunctions of the Makita rotary hammer occur in the mechanical part of the tool.

The most typical malfunction for the mechanical part, failure of the percussion mechanism.

Disassembly of the striking mechanism
The impact mechanism is assembled on the inner casing and consists of a gearbox shaft and an intermediate shaft.
The rotary motion is transmitted via helical gears to the intermediate shaft.

The gearbox shaft is a hollow barrel, in which the cylinder moves freely.

A small spur gear mounted on the intermediate shaft transmits rotation to the large spur gear of the gearbox shaft, in which the impact mechanism is mounted.
And the translational movements on the shaft of the gearbox of the percussion mechanism are simultaneously transmitted through transmission from the rolling bearing of the intermediate shaft to the cylinder moving in the barrel of the gearbox.

We proceed to disassembling the intermediate shaft.

Dismantling the intermediate shaft

A helical gear, pos. 42, is mounted on the shaft, pos. 42, to which rotation is transmitted from the gear of the rotor, a rolling bearing 608zz, pos. 41, which transmits translational motion to the hinge, pos. 34, of the piston, pos. 32.
On the other side of the shaft, a clutch clutch pos. 39 is installed, a spur gear 10 pos. 80, a compression spring pos. 38, a circlip S-7 pos. 37, bearing 606zz pos. 36
Pay particular attention to the condition of the rolling bearings.
Imported bearings are installed in the hammer drill. Installation of domestic bearings is allowed.
Bearing 606zz can be changed to 80016, bearing 609zz can be changed to 80019.

Moving on to disassembling the shock mechanic’s shaft

Disassembling the hammer shaft Disassembling the barrel of the Makita 2470 hammer drill is a simple process if you use the diagram of the Makita hammer drill.
The shaft is a barrel poz.21, in which the impact mechanism is assembled.
Gears, pos. 19, are attached to the barrel, which is pressed down by the spring, pos. 18, through the washer, pos. 17, and fixed with a retaining ring, pos. 16. In the barrel, the cylinder, pos. 32, moves, acting on the firing pin, pos. 24. On the reverse side of the striker, a metal ring pos. 27 is fixed, transmitting the blow to the drill.
And when you need to replace the drill barrel?

Most often, a metal ring fails.

We figured out the disassembly.
We change the parts for a serviceable one and get ready to assemble. Learn more about rock drill lubrication and assembly.

How to disassemble and check other elements

Having dealt with the electrician, the master will begin to inspect mechanical components:

Separate the plastic cover from the gear drive. In this case, it is recommended to run a magnet over the casing so that individual parts, for example, ball bearings, do not roll out.
Will extract the axial shaft from a “drunk” or floating bearing, it is his “swing” that transfers the shock impulse to the chuck.
He will remove the drive gears (with curved and straight teeth) by removing the circlips, after which he will separate the bearing.
Separate the retaining ring from the raster sleeve and unscrew the impact bolt, after which it will check the integrity of the striker, made of durable metals.
After examining the nodes and, if necessary, replacing the damaged elements, the structure is assembled in successive blocks. Craftsmen recommend Lubricating every part and assembly during assembly.

Punch chuck device. what is hidden inside?

The history of the evolution of the hammer drill chuck dates back to the 30s of the last century, when the first hammer drill was developed and put on stream by the well-known manufacturer of Bosch equipment. The combination of torque and impulse chiselling predictably hit consumers, and the tool has not left the counter since. However, at first, consumers were forced to put up with certain disadvantages.

In particular, the chuck was the weak link, since hammer drilling had a devastating effect on this. The manufacturers chose the way of simplification. the simpler the device of the punch chuck, the stronger the part will be. Today on hammer drills you can find three types of cartridges, which in turn are divided into subtypes.

Key chuck (toothed, cam). the nozzle is clamped using a special key, which brings together and spreads the “fingers” inside the chuck, clamping the rod. The advantage of such a cartridge is the high reliability of the fastening. But it takes much more time to change the nozzle than with other types.
Keyless chuck (BZP). the clamping of the nozzle occurs with the help of the effort of only hands. There are two subtypes of such devices. two-sleeve and one-sleeve. In the first case, the rear clutch is held with one hand, and the front clutch is unscrewed with the second. The single-sleeve cartridge is still easier. just one hand is enough. However, it only applies to drills with automatic shaft locking.

SDS Chucks. Types and Applications

In turn, SDS-fasteners are divided into five different types, which differ from each other in different diameters of the landing rods. In addition to SDS tips, there are also SDS-plus and SDS-max. Intermediate options are SDS-top and SDS-quick. The most common type is SDS-plus, which is designed for drill bits with a shank diameter of 10 mm. The shank enters the fastener by 40 mm, after which the working zone begins, the diameter of which can be from 4 mm to 26 mm.

The maximum permissible chisel length for a rotary hammer with SDS-plus shank type is 1 m. The most common bit diameters are presented in the range from 6 mm to 12 mm. This type of fastener is presented on punches of light and medium category, which are in high demand in everyday life and are sold annually in millions of copies. For reference, in the light category there are instruments weighing up to 3 kg, while in the middle category. from 3 kg to 5 kg, excluding the weight of the attachments. They are designed for an impact load of up to 5 J. Professional heavy hammer drills from 5 kg can produce an impact force of up to 30 J. Accordingly, the productivity of professional units is several times higher.

In this case, only SDS-max fasteners can hold the nozzle. It differs in a large shank diameter. 18 mm, as well as in the presence of one more guide groove. Accordingly, the diameter of the working part of the nozzle increases to 60 mm. Such construction equipment should only be bought if you plan to use it constantly. True, get ready for the fact that the cost of the unit will significantly reduce the volume of your wallet, but such costs will pay off. the puncher will work for a very long time and efficiently. Acquire better proven brands.

Steck, Dreh, Sitzt. insert, return, secure!

In the 80s, Bosch proved once again that everything ingenious is simple! Its engineers presented to the general judgment a conceptually new fastening mechanism, now known to everyone under the abbreviation SDS. It is deciphered quite simply. “steck, dreh, sitzt”, which translated from German into Russian means “insert, return, secured.” It is not surprising that today almost 90% of rock drills are equipped with this type of cartridge. It is also called keyless, so many users confuse it with products that clamp the nozzles by rotating the couplings. in SDS, the chuck only needs to be held!

The drills themselves, or rather, the constructive structure of their shanks, will tell you about the design and operating principle of the SDS system. On them you will find four grooves, two of which are open from the end, and two are closed. The role of the open ones is to be guides for inserting the nozzles, and the closed recesses fix the tool for which special balls are provided in the chuck. I inserted the drill along the guides, it needs to be turned slightly so that the balls fall into the closed grooves, this is the end of the process of fixing the nozzle.

For easier entry of the drill into the fastener, it is recommended to lubricate it slightly. It should be noted that with this method of attachment, a slight radial runout occurs in the nozzle, which manifests itself at idle speed. But this does not affect the accuracy of hole drilling. However, this free movement of the bit inside the fastener separates the chuck from the impact that the drills or drills themselves are subject to.

The drill does NOT hold in the chuck and flies out

In this case, the malfunction should be looked for in the chuck collet mechanism. it is disassembled and checked in place whether the ball bearings are in place, and whether the retaining ring or the retaining spring has not opened or is loose.

How to disassemble an electric motor

To inspect the propulsion part, the first thing the master does is to separate it from the percussion mechanism and the gearbox. To do this, unscrew the retaining bolts (there are four of them), after which:

The rotor (or rotor armature) is removed from the hub of the gear drive.
The separated motor is removed from the housing.
The rotor and stator windings are diagnosed separately.
The rotor armature is checked for the integrity of the windings and the absence of bridging and twisting turns. Also, the master will pay attention to the bearings. if their integrity is broken, they are removed and replaced.
By unscrewing the retaining screws, the master removes the stator, gently wiggle or tap on it.
The rotor and stator windings are inspected with a multimeter, measuring the resistance on the lamellas.

Mechanical failures

If the sound of the engine rotation is heard, and the device does NOT perform its functions, this means that there are malfunctions in the operation of the mechanical “filling” of the tool:

The impact does not transfer to the chuck or to the nozzle, i.e. He stopped hitting and the blow was gone;
Rotation of the axis is stopped;
Hollows, but does not twist;
Works in only one position;
The nozzle slips in the chuck clamps or, conversely, jams after work.

Possible malfunctions

The following are the main signs indicating malfunctions of the perforator units and how to fix them yourself.

How to repair a barrel instrument?

The design of electric rock drills varies depending on the location of the motor. It happens:

Vertical (or barrel). in it the engine stands vertically in relation to the rotational-shock axis;
Horizontal, i.e. the motor is parallel to the axis of rotation.

Dismantling the barrel puncher is easier than the horizontal analogue. two device covers give separate access to the mechanical and electrodynamic parts. The upper casing exposes the gear unit and pistons. The lower one allows you to check or replace the brushes and diagnose the power unit.

We disassemble and assemble the cartridge for the hammer drill

From time to time, the parts of the rock drill should be inspected and cleaned to avoid more significant problems and simplify work. Sometimes it is even necessary to carry out minor repairs, such as replacing the spring. All these operations can be performed by every person, even not particularly versed in technology. Basically, SDS cartridges are not very different in design, even in different manufacturers.

First you need to move the plastic part and remove the rubber seal. The retaining ring is carefully removed with a screwdriver, after which the retaining washer is removed. The second ring is “hidden” by the washer, which can also be removed with a screwdriver. This is followed directly by the SDS mechanism, which consists of a washer, a ball and a spring. First you need to remove the ball, then the washer and spring. It is quite logical that to assemble the cartridge, all actions must be repeated in the reverse order, previously cleaned the parts from dust and lubricated them with oil.

Steck, Dreh, Sitzt. insert, return, secure!

The drills themselves, or rather, the constructive structure of their shanks, will tell you about the design and operating principle of the SDS system. On them you will find four grooves, two of which are open from the end, and two are closed. The role of the open ones is to be guides for inserting the nozzles, and the closed recesses fix the tool for which special balls are provided in the chuck. I inserted the drill along the guides, it needs to be turned slightly so that the balls fall into the closed grooves, this is the end of the process of fixing the nozzle.

For easier entry of the drill into the fastener, it is recommended to lubricate it slightly. It should be noted that with this method of attachment, a slight radial runout occurs in the nozzle, which manifests itself at idle speed. But this does not affect the accuracy of hole drilling. However, this free movement of the bit inside the fastener separates the chuck from the impact that the drills or drills themselves are subject to.

Punch chuck device. what manufacturers hide?

The device of the punch chuck when choosing this tool should interest you in the first place. It depends on which attachments you can use in the future, how easily you can change them and how quickly I will repair the tool if necessary.

What time is it?

Inspired by posts about night noise in the house.
One weekend a neighbor was renovating his apartment on the floor below. The punch did NOT fall silent first after ten, then after eleven. After twelve I went to him to knock. Opens, everything is in dust, the music is still playing quietly.
– Vitya, what are your plans for today?
Of course, I didn’t ask with these words, but very politely. they have known each other for a long time and are on good terms. But I quote the answer almost literally.
– What time is it?
– half past twelve.
– Wow.
The man plunged into work and noticed how time flew by.
Sometimes it will calmly ask.

SDS Chucks. Types and Applications

The maximum permissible chisel length for a rotary hammer with SDS-plus shank type is 1 m. The most common bit diameters are presented in the range from 6 mm to 12 mm. This type of fastener is presented on punches of light and medium category, which are in high demand in everyday life and are sold annually in millions of copies. For reference, in the light category there are instruments weighing up to 3 kg, while in the middle category. from 3 kg to 5 kg, excluding the weight of the attachments. They are designed for an impact load of up to 5 J. Professional heavy hammer drills from 5 kg can produce an impact force of up to 30 J. Accordingly, the productivity of professional units is several times higher.

In this case, only SDS-max fasteners can hold the nozzle. It differs in a large shank diameter. 18 mm, as well as in the presence of one more guide groove. Accordingly, the diameter of the working part of the nozzle increases to 60 mm. Such construction equipment should only be bought if you plan to use it constantly. True, get ready for the fact that the cost of the unit will significantly reduce the volume of your wallet, but such costs will pay off. the puncher will work for a very long time and efficiently. Acquire better proven brands.

Sources:

http://psydesign.Net/perforator-ne-derzhit-bur-v-patrone/
http://alkstroy.ru/burenie/perforator-ne-derzhit-bur-chto-delat.html

Drill chuck, does, drill, hammer, hold