The screwdriver crackles under load and does not twist

Car engine starting mechanism

The mechanism for starting a car engine is a system that requires special attention and is directly responsible for starting the engine itself.

Modern cars are mainly equipped with a starter engine starting system. The starting mechanism is directly related to electrical equipment.

The mechanism is powered by direct current from the car battery. The trigger includes the following items.

  • Connecting wires.
  • Starter.
  • Ignition lock (read also about repairing the ignition lock).
  • Drive mechanism.
  • Traction relay.

Malfunction of the solenoid relay

In some cases, the starter solenoid relay clicks, but the circuit does not close. Sometimes you can save yourself by closing contacts, but not always. If a characteristic crackling sound is heard in the engine area, the bendix is ​​likely to break.

It’s easy to find out Bendix. It looks like a small gear located on the rotor shaft. When voltage is applied to the bendix, the relay starts to operate, which controls its movement, coupling with the flywheel.

If the bendix is ​​worn out, the entire procedure described becomes impossible, since the relationship between the part and the flywheel teeth will not be achieved. The impossibility of this procedure provides a characteristic crunch.

Starter malfunction

Although most often the reason for the fact that the starter does not turn is a lack of energy and a lack of charge in the battery, often the reason lies in the very details of starting the engine.

In this situation, the identification and elimination of the malfunction will take significantly more time and effort. Common launcher problems are:

  • if there is a smell of burning, or the starter is smoking, it is possible that the winding burned out when it was closed;
  • breakdown of the electrical system of the launcher;
  • failure of the retractor relay;
  • the teeth of the bendix are worn off;
  • damaged contacts;
  • burned out wires.

Usually, when the starter clicks, but does not turn, it is sent for repair to a service, but it is not always possible to repair it. For example, if the cause of the malfunction is a breakdown of the retractor relay or a malfunction in the functioning of the bendix, the device can be repaired. If the problem is with the electrical system, the starter will probably have to be replaced.

What can be done?

Any motorist knows about the generator available in the car for charging the battery. This is a special device that transfers electricity to the battery and the on-board system from the motor.

Thanks to this technological process, the battery can be additionally charged. Full charging of the battery in this way is impossible for a number of nuances:

  • The rechargeable battery cannot be fully charged during operation as it must be at rest.
  • This technology allows you to charge just to start the engine.
  • The charging process itself is very weak.
  • If the generator is running, the battery is under high load.

Therefore, when the car does not start, the starter does not turn, the relay clicks, you should not rely on charging the battery in this way.

It is much more efficient to replenish the battery charge in the standard way, using a charger. All energy will be restored in just a few hours, and the battery will be ready for use again.

If the situation is urgent, charging with a charger is still more relevant. Literally 20. 30 minutes and the battery will be partially charged.

In case of detecting problems with the power supply system, it is necessary to take some actions:

  • using a screwdriver with a rubberized handle, unscrew the battery terminals;
  • take sandpaper of zero fraction, and thoroughly clean the connecting wires and terminals;
  • also use sandpaper to clean the contacts on the battery itself;
  • check the battery charge;
  • assess visually the connecting wiring supplying the starter for integrity;
  • securely fasten the battery terminals, making sure they do not come off;

After carrying out all these manipulations, you should turn on the engine and evaluate the operation of the starting system.

If the starter does not turn, the relay clicks and pops, it is necessary to check the retractor relay. For this, the voltage must be applied directly from the storage battery to the control terminal. It is not difficult to recognize it. Usually a thin wire leads to it. In the case of normal cranking of the engine, the fact of failure of the solenoid relay will be confirmed.

Most often, burning of contacts is noted in the relay. To eliminate the malfunction, it must be dismantled, cleaned the contacts and installed back.

screwdriver, crackles, load, does, twist

Under normal conditions, the application of this layer is impossible, therefore the next burning of the contacts is possible at any time.

Malfunction of the electrical circuit of the ignition system

If the starter does not turn, but the battery check showed no malfunctions, you should look for the reasons elsewhere. Often to blame for the problem are breaks in the wiring, that is, the electric wires either spark when the engine is started, or they are completely disconnected from the battery.

Often the same problem occurs due to oxidized terminals. This “disease” is typical for batteries of any model.

5 possible reasons why the starter won’t turn and the car won’t start

The starter in the car is used to start the engine. Sometimes a part fails. As a result, attempts to start the car fail. Why is this happening, what are the reasons for the loss of starter performance and how they can be eliminated?

Among the mass of surprises that a motorist can present to his car is a refusal to start the engine. There are many reasons for this misunderstanding. One of them is a starter malfunction.

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Also, when the car does not start, the starter does not turn, the reason may lie in some auxiliary systems. The fault may be the battery, problems in the electrical circuits, or a malfunction of the solenoid relay.

Incorrect alarm operation

How to start the car if the starter does not turn, if everything is in order, the battery is charged, and the wiring is not damaged? There is a possibility of malfunctions in the process of work as a result of malfunctions of car alarms and immobilizers.

The characteristic factor of the presence of a problem in the anti-theft device is that the car does not start, the starter does not turn, the relay does not click. Either the car started up, but then it stalls. The engine does not respond to starting from the key, and does not start with the key fob. If all these factors, or selectively, are present, then either a complete or partial blocking of the system has occurred.

The main malfunctions of diesel engines

This section lists the underlying causes of malfunction that are common to all diesel engines, regardless of the installed fuel equipment.

To repair and diagnose the engine of a particular car, use Online Diagnostics. a unique service for troubleshooting diesel problems, which takes into account the features of the fuel equipment installed on your engine.

When purchasing a diesel car, many pay attention only to the low consumption of inexpensive fuel, forgetting about the objectively high costs of operation and repair, although you need to be prepared for this.

Possible engine malfunctions can be divided into the following groups for reasons of occurrence: design and production defects or engine features; unqualified service and illiterate operation; low quality diesel fuel; “Natural” wear of the engine and fuel supply equipment; poor quality of repairs and spare parts.

Consider the most common diesel engine models from the point of view of the listed problems.

Constructive and production factors

Let’s make a reservation right away that all diesel engines are quite reliable, and the drawbacks associated with their design or production technology, as a rule, appear in severe operating conditions and with mileage exceeding the resource assigned by the plant or close to it. And in no other way, otherwise foreign consumers spoiled by good technology and service would ruin the manufacturing plants with lawsuits. But getting to Ukraine, diesel foreign cars just encounter difficult operating conditions and, having, as a rule, a very decent mileage, they willingly show all design flaws.

Unqualified maintenance and illiterate operation

The first and most important cause of all troubles is non-compliance with the operating regulations. It is recommended to change the oil after 7500-10000 km, regardless of what frequency is indicated in the instructions. This is due to the increased amount of sulfur in the domestic diesel fuel, which leads to rapid oil oxidation. The quality of the oils used must comply with the requirements of the instructions.

Sprayer defect led to piston burnout

The timing belt and injection pump must be changed at least after 60 thousand km, provided that there is no oil on it. If oil does get on the belt, the leak must be repaired immediately. It is also necessary to closely monitor the fuel system, for example, periodically drain the sludge from the fuel filter by unscrewing the drain nut. It is recommended to flush the fuel tank twice a year, in spring and autumn, completely removing it. Everyone can be convinced of the relevance of such a procedure on their own by seeing how much dirt will pour out of the tank.

Another reason leading to damage to a diesel engine is an attempt to start it at all costs in cases where it cannot start. So, if there is summer diesel fuel in the tank, and 10 ° C outside. an attempt to start is pointless: at 5 ° C, paraffins are already precipitated and the fuel loses its fluidity. Parts of the fuel equipment are known to be lubricated with fuel, and its absence leads to dry friction and damage to them.

So the only way in this case is to look for a warm garage and warm up the fuel system. And it is generally not recommended to start a diesel engine from a tug, especially if the timing belt is driven by a belt. A serviceable diesel engine starts up without additional heating means up to 20 ° C. If this does not happen, it is easier to find and fix the malfunction than to bring the motor to a major overhaul.

You should also not dilute diesel fuel with gasoline unless absolutely necessary. wear and tear of fuel equipment due to deterioration of lubrication and the engine itself due to a violation of the combustion process increases sharply. When operating a diesel car, it is important to remember that its engine does not like high revs. Long journeys at top speed are another way to speed up a major overhaul. And it should be said that it is extremely necessary to warm up the diesel engine. Of course, not to operating temperature, but at least 2-4 minutes. And give full load only after 70 degrees of engine temperature.

Diesel fuel quality

According to statistics, approximately 50% of malfunctions and breakdowns of fuel equipment are caused by the quality of the fuel. over, not a high m of sulfur and a deviation in the cetane number. This could still be experienced, since the negative consequences are stretched over time. But the elementary presence of water and mechanical impurities in the fuel is destructive. Therefore, we advise you to install fuel filters from quality manufacturers, and do not first of all go for a low price. For a reference point, the price of the filter for “Japanese” should be at least 100 UAH, everything that costs 40-50 UAH is a solid butophoria!

“Natural” wear and tear

The wear of the engine and parts of the fuel equipment after a long mileage is far from the last in the series of malfunctions. The main problem is usually associated with a decrease in compression due to wear of the piston group. In this case, the engine does not start well in cold weather, even with fully serviceable glow plugs and winter fuel. At the same time, it is easy to start from the tug and, being warmed up, does not cause launch problems. For reference, note that the lower limit of compression for most engines is 20-26 bar.

Other important signs of engine wear are increased oil consumption and crankcase gas pressure (over 10 mm H2O). Adjustments can no longer help here and there is no alternative to overhaul in this case.

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Wear on injector nozzles results in black exhaust fumes and increased fuel consumption. Sometimes the sprayer “bites” and emits a characteristic knock, accompanied by the appearance of acrid white smoke. During normal operation, the resource of sprayers is usually 80-100 thousand km.

Prolonged operation of the engine with faulty injector nozzles usually leads to burnout of the prechambers and then the pistons. Prolonged operation, especially in the cold season, leads to washing off of the oil film from the walls of the cylinder liner by unburned (due to poor spray) fuel particles, leading to catastrophic wear of the piston group. Wear of high-pressure fuel pump plunger pairs is also common, usually accompanied by difficulty in starting a hot engine.

Consequences of poor-quality repair

Diesel repair requires a good knowledge of the design features of the engine being repaired and conscientious observance of the repair instructions, as well as high-quality spare parts. Attempts to repair at a cheaper price from “garage” masters using spare parts of unknown origin most often lead to lost money, and even to a ruined engine.

Let’s consider some typical mistakes when repairing diesel engines.
If the timing belt breaks, it makes no sense to try to install a new one without removing and repairing the cylinder head, because valves “meet” pistons on any diesel engine. In this case, at least 2-3 valves will require replacement. Exceptions are few; only in Renault 2.1 and Ford 2.5 l engines, when pistons strike the valves, breaking rockers and deformed valve drive rods reliably protect the valves from damage. In the case of a weakening of the landing of vortex chambers in the heads of the engine block of Opel, VW, Peugeot, BMW, it is pointless to try to seal them. they still fall out. It is necessary to install repair prechambers, or change the block head.

Installing the head on a VW engine block without centering bushings is unacceptable. head misalignment with subsequent burnout of the gasket is almost inevitable.

An attempt to get rid of by replacing the piston rings when the cylinders are worn over 0.1 mm is pointless. new rings will travel no more than 10 thousand km, and usually even less. Equally useless is the installation of new nominal pistons without boring the cylinder block. The only correct solution is to bore the block to the repair size. Rings replacement is usually required only in case of severe engine overheating and loss of elasticity.

In the event of the destruction of the connecting rod bearing or its cranking (this is accompanied by overheating of the lower connecting rod head), the connecting rod requires mandatory repair or replacement, otherwise the engine will “knock” again in the first thousand kilometers.

Repair of fuel equipment “on the knee” is impossible. For any successful repair of high-pressure fuel pumps, stands, special devices, flow charts and mechanics who know the features of repairing pumps of this model are needed. If these conditions are not met, the pump will most likely be ruined irrevocably.

A properly repaired and assembled engine starts without any problems with the starter. If the engine does not start, it is necessary to look for the cause, and not drag the car on a rope for many kilometers or grease it with a starter until smoke comes off it. A tug is the surest way to ditch a newly assembled engine.

Symptoms of the main malfunctions of diesel engines:

Engine start is difficult

High pressure pump discharge elements are worn out. Incorrect fuel advance angle in the engine. Worn nozzles causing poor fuel atomization. Injection pressure too low. Insufficient fuel in front of the high pressure pump due to air entering the fuel supply system. Fuel supply pump malfunctions. Too little fuel dose at start, caused by improper operation of the regulator. Fuel thickening in winter. Glow plugs defective.

Reduced engine power

High pressure fuel pump or regulator precision components are worn. Improper adjustment of pump or all-mode regulator. Incorrect injection advance angle. Worn or damaged spray nozzles. Excessive drop in injection pressure. Insufficient fuel supply from the pressurization system due to a clogged fuel filter, inadequate booster fuel pump capacity, or air entering the fuel system.

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Increased fuel consumption

Incorrect injection advance angle. High pressure pump discharge elements are worn out. Incorrect adjustment of the high pressure pump. Worn or damaged spray nozzles. Too much drop in injection pressure. Air filter dirty. Fuel leak. Insufficient compression.

Black smoky exhaust

Poor mixture formation in the combustion chamber due to carbon deposits or loose valves. Late fuel injection. Poor fuel atomization by injectors. Incorrect valve clearances. Insufficient compression.

Gray or white smoky exhaust

Incorrect injection advance. Insufficient compression. The head gasket is punctured. Overcooling of the engine.

Engine hard work

Fuel injection too early. There is a big difference between the doses of fuel injected into different cylinders of the engine. Incorrect operation of some injectors. Insufficient compression.

Engine overheating

screwdriver, crackles, load, does, twist

Incorrect injection advance angle. Poor fuel atomization by nozzles (jet instead of “torch”).

Full engine power does not develop

Short stroke at the accelerator pedal, the accelerator pedal thrust is incorrectly adjusted. Air filter dirty. Air in the power supply system. Damaged fuel lines. The mounts of the sprayers (nozzles) are faulty. Sprayers are defective. The fuel injection advance angle is knocked down. Defective high pressure fuel pump.

Increased fuel consumption

The power supply system is not hermetic. Clogged fuel drain line (from pump to fuel tank). High idle speed or injection advance knocked down. The engine is not working well. Defective atomizers, defective injectors Mechanical fuel atomizer (for example, fuel oil, diesel fuel, gasoline), consists of one or two channels. The first one supplies fuel to the outlet, the second one supplies steam, which is used to spray the fuel. Injectors used in internal combustion engines spray at the expense of high fuel pressure (several atmospheres for gasoline and hundreds and thousands of atmospheres for diesel). Defective high pressure fuel pump.

Increased engine noise

Contamination in the power supply system, as a result of which the sprayers do not work. Sealing washers under the nozzles are missing or poorly installed, the nozzle is too tight (too loose) wrapped in the cylinder head. Air in the power system.

Uneven engine idling

The idle speed is set incorrectly. The accelerator pedal travel is difficult. Loose fuel line between the high pressure fuel pump and the fuel filter. The base plate of the high pressure pump is damaged. Malfunctions in the fuel supply. Sprayers are faulty, nozzles are faulty. Incorrect advance of injection.

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Fluctuations in crankshaft speed

Worn speed regulator. Misalignment or wear of the injection system. Excessive resistance to movement of elements in the control system. Air entering the fuel system. Excessive pressure of gases in the crankcase.

Sudden engine stop

Displacement of the discharge advance angle (violation of the connection between the pump and the drive). Clogged fuel filter and shortage of fuel supplied to the pump. Lack of fuel supply caused by damage to the high pressure fuel pump or booster pump. Damage to the injection pipe. Wear and misalignment of the separator piston, rotor or pistons of the high pressure pump.

Glow plugs often fail

Faulty injectors in the corresponding cylinders.

Unable to turn off the engine

Defective shut-off solenoid valve.

The engine oil level in the crankcase rises

Leakage through the seal of the chain or gear drive of the high pressure pump.

Weak engine braking

Clogged fuel drain lines. Incorrectly set accelerated idle speed.

For a more detailed study of malfunctions, we recommend reading the section on all malfunctions of diesel engines.

Why is the perforator heated

In most cases, this is due to long operating times and enormous tool loads. The engine interacts with the working units, and as a result, overheating may appear. If it occurs, turn off the instrument, let it cool down. more than half an hour.

Oil flows from the punch

Leakage is a direct indicator of the wear of certain parts inside the mechanism. Unscrew the model and make diagnostics, change the lubricant if necessary.

Perforator smell

Extraneous odors of course appear at the time of overheating or an overestimated load for which the model is not designed. When it is new or only from repair. most likely, the parts simply did not get used, and it will take time for such a process.

Possible malfunctions, reasons for their occurrence and remedies

To repair a hammer drill with your own hands, you must first determine the external manifestations of malfunctions.

Removing the mode switch

To remove the mode switch, you must:

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  • Move the toggle switch to the “strike” position (the hammer icon) and turn it about 1 cm below.
  • Free the lever from the socket.
  • Pull the lever towards you.

How to check the start button and brushes

The rear cover must be removed to access the collector brushes and the start control button. For this, two or three screws are unscrewed from the plastic case (depending on the model).

If the cause of the malfunction lay in the wear of the brushes, you can eliminate it by installing a new pair. The working length of the brush must be at least 8 mm. Rubbing surface. no traces of scale or chips.

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The start button is checked with a multimeter. It must be remembered that the engine speed control system is also located inside the trigger mechanism. If melted plastic is visible on the button body, it should be replaced entirely, since it will no longer function properly.

Attention! It is strictly forbidden to check the operation of the button when the instrument is connected to the network.!

Why the screwdriver does not twist under load. reasons and repairs

The main causes of breakdown

Depending on how the breakdown manifests itself, you can determine its causes. There are 7 of the most common types of faults that cause an electrical mechanism to fail:

  • Battery worn out. the tool works poorly, requires more frequent recharging. The solution is to buy a new battery and replace it yourself.
  • Damage to the satellite or pin. a malfunction that can be eliminated by replacing components.
  • If the screwdriver does not twist under load, this indicates improper operation of the device.
  • Damage to the shaft or bearings is another cause of poor performance. During operation, the mechanism cracks and cannot cope with the load.
  • Wear on the internal gears also interferes with the function of the device.
  • Lack of lubrication in the gearbox. this happens if the tool is rarely used.
  • It may not work due to a burned out motor winding. In such a situation, a motor replacement is required.

It is not easy to determine the cause by visual inspection of the device, it is necessary to perform diagnostics according to the following instructions:

  • disconnect the device from the network;
  • remove the cartridge;
  • remove the body part;
  • remove gearboxes and fixing plate;
  • disassemble the gearbox to gain access to the gears;
  • inspect each component, assess the degree of wear or damage;
  • replace broken parts;
  • adjust the springs with pliers to improve instrument control;
  • get to the bearings, check them, damaged ones. replace them;
  • check the condition of the motor, brushes and shaft.

Bearings and gears wear out quickly enough during intensive use, therefore they require periodic replacement. The battery, even in high-quality equipment, should also be replaced periodically.

Features of repairing a screwdriver, if it does not twist or twists poorly

Before starting the repair, you need to prepare everything. There are several rules and recommendations that should be followed when repairing:

  • if replacement parts are required, you need to buy only original components issued by the tool manufacturer;
  • after disassembling the tool, it is worth checking everything, since there may be several breakdowns;
  • after repair, it is necessary to check the fixation of all parts.

Important! If you start to repair the equipment yourself, which is still under warranty, after disassembly you will lose the rights to free maintenance in the service center.

If the device turns poorly or works slowly, it is possible to identify the malfunction and repair it without the involvement of a specialist. First, you need to diagnose the causes by checking all the details of the device, and then proceed to fix the problem. If the device is under warranty, it is recommended to contact a service center with a breakdown.

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