What You Can Do From A Hammer

During pouring concrete mortar, each layer is compacted. Do this manually by punching a layered mixture with rods of different materials (metal, wood). All work can be done much faster with the help of special devices. vibrators. But a factory vibrating plate, purchased for home use, is not always an economically viable option, because it costs a lot. To work for her several times, and then leave it just to lie does not make any sense. In this case, you can make a vibrator for concrete from a punch yourself. Homemade work will speed up the tamping process and improve the quality of work.

Perforator vibrator

To put the project into practice, you will need the following materials and tools:

  • metal (steel) plate of the required sizes, thickness from 50 to 70 mm;
  • an iron rod or reinforcement (of rectangular or circular cross section) of such a length that it would be possible to reach the bottom of the exposed formwork when pouring concrete;
  • hammer drill;
  • an old drill or a peak, a shovel, a chisel, even a crown;
  • angle grinder with metal discs;
  • welding machine with electrodes;
  • ruler or tape measure;
  • marker.

What You Can Do From A Hammer

The minimum power of the drill must be 1.5 kW. only such a tool will provide the required performance without overheating.

One side of the rod with a cross section of 15-20 mm is processed so that it can be inserted into a perforating cartridge. A stainless steel plate is welded to the second side. For this, special electrodes are needed.

It is better that the rod also be from of stainless steel. Concrete is an aggressive environment. Ordinary metal is heavily exposed to chemicals, and also wears out faster mechanically.

The sequence of manufacture of the nozzle for tamping is as follows:

  • cut off the angle grinder from the steel sheet a rectangle of the required size, and a piece of the desired length from a round or rectangular bar;
  • weld the plate to either end of the rod;
  • cut off with a small margin the seat of the drill;
  • weld it to the rod.

If you do not use the old drill, you will need to make a special adapter for the perforator cartridge, or use the machine equipment to grind a seat on the free end of the rod. It’s easiest to immediately use a drill of the right length. On the basis of the punch, you can make more complex devices, for example, with a flexible shaft, which will further mix the working solution.

Homemade tamper for concrete of small sizes (the simplest manufacturing option) is presented in the video.


Owners of summer cottages or private houses often face the need to dig holes under fence poles or pile supports. For drilling the earth, both hand tools and those equipped with an electric or fuel drive (for example, gasoline) are used. In the first case, the work will take a longer time, and also require more labor costs. Buying or renting powerful devices is not cheap, so craftsmen figured out how to make a homemade Yamobur from a perforator.

Video: What You Can Do From A Hammer

But homemade devices, in comparison with factory analogues, have following cons:

  • they can be drilled only in relatively shallow pits of small diameter;
  • they are not suitable for working on hard soils.

Structurally, home-made devices consist of three parts:

  • punch;
  • ordinary earth auger;
  • adapter or gearbox.

The last 2 parts of the device can be done with your own hands. Even for sale special nozzle (auger) for drilling, which is attached to a powerful punch or drill. A work tool made in this way is shown in the photo below.

An important point is the amount of power and the number of revolutions of the hammer, which will be used in conjunction with the device for drilling. The optimal value of the first parameter for the manual model of a homemade Yamobur is 2 kW. It should be borne in mind that, depending on the number of revolutions, the drill can be connected directly to a perforator cartridge or through a gearbox. For 2 kW models, the latter is not needed.

The optimal number of revolutions of the working nozzle from 60 to 300 per minute is considered optimal for drilling. This value depends on the properties of the soil on the site.

Drilling is performed in two ways:

  • continuous
  • with periodic soil extraction.

In the first case, you will need a more powerful tool (with high torque).

Algorithm for making a homemade drill

To make a do-it-yourself drill for pits, you will need, in addition to a punch, such tools and materials:

  • angle grinder;
  • a welding machine with the appropriate electrode grade used;
  • electric drill;
  • unnecessary punch drill;
  • metal fittings or rod for the manufacture of the rod;
  • material for the cutting part;
  • cable and sockets to make the simplest extension cord.

The work of transforming the punch into a device that can be used to drill holes in the ground is directly in making nozzles. All work is performed in the following sequence:

  • cut a piece of the desired length from an rod or tube using an angle grinder (about a meter is enough if the tool power is 2 kW);
  • knives are attached to the lower end (connection methods and design features of the cutting part are discussed below);
  • cut off from the drill its base, intended for installation of this nozzle in a perforating cartridge;
  • weld the cut fragment to the tube.

The simplest option is ready for use in work. If you do not use the base from the old drill, you will need to grind the seat from the rod under the tool holder or under the adapter used.

In addition to the manual model, you can make the likeness of a stationary drilling rig, a possible version of which is presented in the photo below.

To provide power to a homemade Yamobur, you will need to purchase or make an extension cord yourself.

The operation of the created device is shown in the video.

The manufacture of the cutting part

As knives apply:

  • circular saw blades of suitable diameter;
  • ready-made augers from factory motor-drills or agricultural machinery;
  • a metal sheet from which circles of the required diameter are cut, sharpening them and bending them in the necessary way.

The cutting part can be made removable (with a bolted connection method) or non-removable (welded to the bar). Both options are presented in the photographs below.

Cutting design must meet the following parameters:

  • be of a larger diameter (enough by 5 mm) than this parameter for created holes;
  • it is necessary that the angle between the blades is equal to 25-30 degrees;
  • the front (cutting) part of the knives should be sharpened at an angle of 45 °.60 °.

It is advisable to make the tip of the drill from a drill designed for drilling metal, so that the tool is easier to enter into the ground mass.

At its core, remodeling a perforator into a vibrator or earth drill consists in manufacturing a nozzle that is appropriate in terms of functionality and size. Difficulties can arise only if you independently prepare on the rods a seat for a cartridge or adapter. In general, the manufacture of the considered options does not require much time and effort.