Which Way The Trimmer Is Unscrewed
Required tools for removing pedals
Removing the pedals from your bike requires some tools and materials. Most of the owners of bicycles, from the moment of purchasing the transport, buy the necessary tools and materials, which can be useful for repair or maintenance.
Required keys:
- Carob, having a size of 15 mm.
- Adjustable wrench. You need the right thickness, because the gap between the mount and the connecting rod is narrow.
- Hexagonal with parameters 6810 mm for selected models.
- Bicycle set.
- The puller is an optional device suitable for contact types. Holds here while turning with a key while scrolling.
You can purchase a key that performs the functions of both a hexagon and a 15 mm open-end.
Materials:
- Lubrication. Professionals advise cleaning parts and Lubricating;
- Rags (useful when wiping off old grease, Wipe off dirt)
- Any solvent (you can use kerosene).
Important accents in bicycle pedal repair
Obstacles during twisting are caused by severe mechanical stress as a result of external factors. To eliminate the alleged problems, it is advisable:
- Infuse the pedal with kerosene product or solvent. Such soaking will effectively remove clogged dirt, which creates serious interference with rotation.
- Heat the connecting rod together with the axle. Due to slight deformation, the thread is easily loosened and removed here.
How to remove pedals from a bike. Step by step instructions
Sometimes it happens that it becomes necessary to unscrew the pedals from the bike. But not all cyclists know how to perform such an action and in what sequence.
To do this, it is better to study all the nuances of dismantling these parts. Then the bike owner can quickly solve the problem of removing the pedals.
Required tools and materials
Before removing the pedals, you need to prepare the tool and auxiliary materials that you will most likely need.
- Lubrication. the removed parts are recommended to be cleaned and lubricated;
- Cleaning rags;
- Kerosene or solvent. in case the wasps are NOT unscrewed or there are large contaminated areas.
- An adjustable wrench is a universal solution, a small one is desirable, otherwise it will be difficult to get to the nut;
- Open-end wrench for 15. fits almost all models;
- Bicycle kit. in case of emergency;
- Pedal wrench. supplied by manufacturers for non-standard nuts and just in sets;
- Puller. addition to the foot pedals. a standard tool, often supplied by the manufacturer, serves to hold the axle when turned to the side with a wrench.
If the thread on the axle “stuck” to the connecting rod and is NOT removed
- You can apply WD-40 to the junction for 10-15 minutes and try again to Unscrew.
- If WD-40 is available, you can use other means (analogues of WD-40) or, for example, kerosene (you need to wait 2-3 hours for this).
- If after that it is difficult to unscrew. try increasing the length of the lever. Just take a longer wrench or put a metal pipe on it to increase the shoulder (Archimedes’ law has not been canceled yet).
- Some Velomaster offer another way. At the junction of the axle and the connecting rod, water is gradually poured from a boiling kettle, forcing the metal to warm up a little and, because of this, lower the seat density. Personally, I have not tried this option and it seems to me that the boiling water temperature of 90-100 degrees will not heat the connecting rod very much, although it will definitely wash out.
It is more logical to try to warm up this place with a construction hairdryer or a powerful soldering iron. When working with a hair dryer, heat exactly the junction of the axle and the connecting rod and monitor the temperature of the pedal body, especially if it is plastic.
Warming up this place with an open fire is definitely not worth it.
Some features
Since the system is constantly exposed to the environment with severe mechanical stress, torsional problems can arise. In this case, two methods are used:
- Soaking the bicycle pedal in kerosene or solvent to maximize the removal of forgotten dirt that blocks rotation.
- Heating of connecting rod and axle. A slight deformation helps loosen the threads and remove here.
It is also important to carefully tighten it during installation so as not to damage the thread, which is a considerable problem in case of subsequent removal.
Pedal design
The pedal is one of the components of the entire system, which includes other elements:
- Sprocket set.
- Bottom bracket connecting rods.
- Here is the basic framework for the overall structure. The element is a metal pin, which is screwed directly into the connecting rod.
- Platform. a support required for contact with the foot. The platform is fastened on the surface of the axle.
- The bearings form a shaft-to-platform connection. Due to this connecting unit, pedal rotation is ensured.
- Fittings are a combination of bolts and nuts that are responsible for fixing all the components of the pedal. When dismantling, the fittings must be disassembled.
Pedals are classified by platform:
- For contact types, where a mount for specially designed shoes is created.
- For common types.
Depending on the type chosen, the dismantling of some pedals is quite simple, the second is somewhat more difficult. Contact mechanisms are distinguished by a complicated fastening. As for the combined variations, their dismantling is absolutely identical to the contact type. The combined version consists of a conventional pad on one side combined with a contact device on the other.
How to put bike pedals back in place?
Before installing these parts on the bike, it is advisable to check for grease on them. In the absence of such, it is advised to lubricate the threads. This will both protect against corrosion and facilitate future removal.
Use waterproof grease. For example, lithol, as well as grease. A young installation involves cleaning from dirt and removing the previous grease on the threads with a degreaser (degreasing agent).
Professionals recommend carrying out the installation process by hand. Be sure to screw in perpendicular to the axis. This action must be performed as carefully as possible to avoid damage to the thread. Since during the subsequent unscrewing, a serious problem may appear. In a word, axle misalignment must not be allowed.
Arming has the same algorithm as disarming, but in reverse order. And the spin is already going in the other direction. A hex wrench will help to screw in if there is a slot on the side, designed for a hexagon.
But there is one drawback of using such a key. it is impossible to give them a fairly strong load and screw it all the way. As a result of this fact, it will first tighten well with a hex wrench, then tighten finally with an open-end.
What to do if the thread on the axle “stuck” to the connecting rod and is NOT removed?
In case of “sticking” it is recommended to process the place of the WD-40 fastener and leave it for a few minutes. Then try to unscrew again. You can use analogs. Kerosene is also suitable. But when using it, it is better to wait up to 3 hours.
It happens that these funds do NOT help. Then you need to use a longer lever. a large key will do, put on an iron pipe.
There is another way: some offer a pellet with boiling water. Problem place. This can reduce stocking density and really help. Others Try to Heat the joint with a soldering iron or a construction hairdryer.
Step-by-step instruction
First you need to turn off the water. For this, a special tap is closed. It is usually installed in every apartment. If not, you will have to turn off the water in the whole house.
In the second step, the system pressure is released by pressing the red button. If it is absent, you can use one of the mixer taps.
The third step is to remove the item. Using a key, the reservoir is unscrewed. This must be done carefully so as not to damage the flask, since long-term operation leads to sticking of the device.
In the fourth step, the cylinder is removed. The rubberized seals located on each side may be reused if the material has retained its softness while remaining firm enough. Before reinstalling the rubber bands, rinse them well, wait until they are completely dry.
Masters also recommend that you wash the removed flask well. The use of modern cleaning agents is NOT suitable for cleansing, as the remaining chemicals can enter the human body. This can lead to serious illness. Rinse the filter parts only in pre-prepared water.
Water filter design
Of course, before you start replacing this part, you need to study its design and structure in advance. A household filter consists of several parts:
- Head;
- Pressure relief button;
- Replaceable cylinder;
- Flask.
The liquid is purified in the cylinder. Thanks to the installed rubberized rings at the bottom and top of the cylinder, the ingress of dirty water is prevented. After filtration, only clean water that can be drunk enters the flask.
Different materials are used to make the cartridge:
- Polypropylene;
- Polyethylene;
- Cardboard;
- Activated carbon.
There are products where manufacturers include rubber seals in the design.
How to unscrew and change the water filter
In principle, the filter plays the role of a kind of sponge. To cleanse the incoming liquid, it actively absorbs toxic substances, various dirt, harmful microparticles. After cleaning, the liquid becomes drinkable.
The installed filter requires regular maintenance. According to his condition, you need to constantly trace. In the instruction manual, each manufacturer indicates a specific period of time for the device. Then it needs to be replaced. Usually this period does NOT exceed 8 months. If such a filter is used in large enterprises, it is replaced much more often. Repair work, as well as replacement are carried out every 4 months.
Before getting started, you should carefully study the manual for this model. Manufacturers provide detailed recommendations as well as basic operating requirements.
Required tools
How to unscrew the water filter
For a person to feel healthy, it is very important that only clean water flows into his home. To clean it, many install special filters that purify water. When they are used for a very long time, they start to clog up and need to be replaced. To perform this operation, you must familiarize yourself with the technology of unscrewing the water filter.
Build and install
The cleaning filter is inserted into a well-washed flask. The flask is tightly tightened with a wrench. Then the water tap opens slowly. There is no need to leak between the head and the bulb. The connection must be completely sealed. If leaks are found, you need to close the tap again, check the tightness of the connection between the filter and the vessel.
Sometimes situations arise when repeated twisting does not give a positive result. Leakage is detected. To solve the problem, you will have to disassemble the product again, check the condition of the rubber bands. Possibly, they were twisted during screwing. The parts must be carefully straightened, then the installation operation must be performed again.
You need to start draining the water. This operation should take about 10 minutes. The filter will be cleaned of the remaining micro-particles of dirt. If the water is not drained, harmful particles may settle. Once ingested, they become source of serious illness.
The filter can be used after all the above operations have been completed. This device has an important function. Human health depends on it. Therefore, his condition must be constantly monitored. If it carries out timely cleansing, you can extend its life.
Removing the coil from the trimmer
On small electric trimmers with a bottom-mounted motor (when it is in the ground while working), the reels usually have two keys on the sides. Click on them and disconnect one half of the coil body from the second, which remains on the trimmer. Together with the first half, the inner part is also taken out, on which the fishing line is directly wound. When disassembling, be careful: there is a spring inside that can fly out and get lost.
On electric and gasoline trimmers with a curved bar (there is still no way to put a knife on such trimmers), you need to grab the coil body itself with one hand, and with the other hand you need to start rotating the lamb on it counterclockwise. It is he who attaches the coil to the Trimmer Bar. Having unscrewed the lamb, carefully remove the entire coil, trying NOT to lose the spring inside.
On electric and gasoline trimmers with a straight bar and a gearbox at its end (on such trimmers, in addition to fishing line, you can also install a knife), we look for a hole under the coil, insert, for example, a screwdriver into it, quietly rotate the coil until the screwdriver does NOT crawl even deeper and the coil will lock. Now steep the whole coil clockwise (since the thread is left-hand) and remove it from the trimmer. Then we disassemble the coil. It can be assembled using snaps or a twisted lamb. If the coil is on latches, then press on the sides on the base of the latches so that they bend and release one half of the coil body from the other. We just unscrew the lamb. There may also be a third type of connection between the two halves of such a coil: with it, you need to grab the lower part with one hand, and the upper part with the other, and start turning them in opposite directions. When disassembling such a coil, you also need to make sure that the spring inside is not lost.
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Now, having removed and disassembled the coil, we proceed, in fact, to winding.
How to properly wind the line on the trimmer spool
Many, having worked out the factory line on the recently purchased trimmers, are trying to wind a new one, but they cannot, because they do not know how to properly wind the line on the spool (bobbin) of the trimmer. It seems that there is an instruction, but it still does not work. Let’s try in this article to deal with this issue.
So, in order to wind the line, you first need to remove the coil from the trimmer. this will be more convenient. The removal method will depend on the type of trimmer.
Winding process
If your coil is designed to work with only one tendril, then it’s simple. You need to unwind 2-4 m of fishing line (depending on the size of the reel), find a hole on the inside of the reel for the fixing line, insert one end of the line there and start winding the line in the direction opposite to the direction of rotation of the reel on the trimmer. On the inside of the reel, they usually indicate with an arrow in which direction to wind the line. I wound the fishing line, we leave a small piece of it unwound to put it out. We fix this piece in a specially groove located on the inner part of the reel and designed so that at the time of collecting the reel, the line does NOT unwind. If there is such a groove, then you will have to hold the fishing line with your finger to prevent it from unwinding during the further collection of the coil. Next, we take the outer part of the coil and threading the outer piece of fishing line into the existing hole, collect and put the coil back on the trimmer.
If the coil is designed to work with two tendrils, then do the following. On the inside of the reel, we look at how many grooves there are for winding the fishing line. There may be one or two of them. If there is only one groove, then both tendrils are wound along this one groove. If there are two grooves, then each antenna is wound along its own groove. Reels with one groove should have a through hole through which the fishing line is threaded. We rewind 2-4 m of fishing line, threading it through this hole so that the fishing line sticks out equally on each side. And we simultaneously wind both tendrils of the fishing line in one direction, opposite to the direction of rotation of the coil to the trim tabs and coinciding with the direction indicated by the arrow on the inside of the coil. We leave a little of the fishing line unwound, the resulting ends We fix in the Special grooves, and if they are not there, we hold them with our fingers. Threading both ends into the existing holes on the outer casing of the coil. We collect the coil and fasten it to the trimmers.
If there are two grooves, fold a piece of fishing line 2-4 m long in half. Insert the loop obtained at the place of the fold into the groove between the two grooves, and simultaneously wind both ends of the fishing line along its own groove. Further actions are similar to the previous option.
There are also spools in which the fishing line is threaded through a through hole on the inside. After that, the ends of the line, and not winding, are threaded completely through the holes on the outer body of the reel, assemble the reel and begin to rotate the button, which is usually pressed, in order to release the line during operation as it wears out. Turning the button. the line itself is wound inside. In this case, twisting it in the “wrong” direction will NOT work, since it can only rotate in one direction. If you get used to it, you can wind fishing line on such a reel without even disassembling it. you just need to combine the through hole of the inner drum with the holes on the outer body of the reel, and then thread the fishing line through them.
That’s all on this issue. Happy winding!