Why chains break on a Stihl chainsaw

We restore the work of the tool

To restore the saw, whether the Ural or Calm brand, you need to know the location.

First, we check and change. If the saw still does not start, we check it further.

The problem is the candle. take out and dry. Do not under any circumstances puncture it, as this will cause the part to malfunction. 30 minutes after drying, you can insert the spark plug back before checking if any fuel is still in place.

Stihl Chainsaw Spark is missing. NZIZN.RU

Chainsaw malfunctions and repairs

Usually, a refusal in the operation of chainsaws is caused by a malfunction of the motor or the appearance of breakdowns in its other units.

• ignition malfunction;
• problems in the fuel supply system;
• malfunction of the piston or cylinder.

In other nodes, most often malfunctions appear due to failures of the brake mechanism.,

One of the reasons why the muffler can clog is the use of a fuel mixture with an excessive amount of oil (the amount of oil is more than the manufacturer recommends), and the use of either oil that is not intended for two-stroke engines or low-quality oil.

Cylinder-piston group. Malfunctions of the cylinder-piston group are among the most serious. This is the worn out cylinder and piston, scratches and scuffs on their surfaces, wear or sinking in the grooves of the piston rings, wear on the crankshaft bearings. Most of these malfunctions lead to a drop in cylinder pressure and, as a result, to the inability to start the engine, or its inability to deliver full power. There are several ways to assess the state of the cylinder-piston group (CPG).

It is useful to measure the compression in the engine, which is informative enough regarding the condition of the parts of the CPG. The operation is carried out using a compressometer installed in the candle hole.

The crankshaft is turned using an electric motor (drill) with a flexible shaft or manually with a starter, while controlling the pressure on a pressure gauge. There is no spark in the chainsaw, no spark in the chainsaw, ignition coil replacement there is no spark on the chainsaw no sparks chainsaw The spark search is missing on the chainsaw. The latter for a working chainsaw should be at least 8-9 atm (0.8-0.9 MPa). With its decrease, the engine power also decreases. At a pressure of 5 atm, the engine may work, but only at idle.

It is possible to accurately assess the state of the CPG only by completely disassembling the engine. by disconnecting the crankcase from the cylinder and removing the piston. If the latter has seizures, chips or deep scratches, it must be replaced. With regard to the cylinder, if the surface is worn out or damaged, it is possible to bore it to the repair size. The reason for low compression may be wear or coking of the piston ring. A serviceable ring should be clean from carbon deposits, sit freely in the piston groove and press tightly against the inner surface of the cylinder.

No sparks chainsaw

Chainsaw won’t start no spark Description of all circumstances Cheap products from China

A little about contact and electronic ignition

When I started working at the forestry enterprise, in the late 90s, we were cutting down the old Urals, and logging at the Khuskvarna 262. The forest was good quality, so the bumper only had time to divide the logs into ridges an endless stream of bundles. Ignition in the Urals was no longer cam (contact), but electronic. By the way, for novice lumberjacks who have not come across contact ignition, but who are interested, I want to briefly clarify about the old type of ignition.

Cam contact ignition on old models of chainsaws (“Druzhba”, “Ural”) was distinguished by its simplicity, and most importantly, it did not have any electronics (various electronic boards) in its design. The “cams” operated as a breaker, the current was supplied by a high-voltage coil. Any experienced lumberjack could fix the ignition malfunction at that time in a short working time. However, the ignition was too often “covered”. The disadvantage of cam ignition was an “open” spark, which negatively affected the metal contacts themselves. over time they became covered with carbon deposits, a layer of which grew and the spark worsened and disappeared. I had to clean the contacts, re-set the gap. Another argument against cam ignition is greater size and weight than electronic (this comparison is relevant for modern gearless saws).

Electronic ignition, in turn, is a module that includes not only the coil, but also the electronic board. On the first “Urals” with electronic ignition, as far as I remember, the electronic board was filled with mica (epoxy resin), which, in case of repair, was melted and the board was removed. Later they began to use a sealant. Although it is difficult to call it a board, since these are separate radio components. triac, diodes, capacitor, resistor. There were two coils. high voltage and low voltage, which were located opposite each other. There was also an additional coil (spark) under the low-voltage coil, which “struck a spark”. Honestly, we never repaired electronic ignition in the Urals and gave it to the electromechanical workshop of the local LPK, where it was revived for us in a short time.

Determine the availability of fuel and its supply.

First you need to make sure that there is a fuel mixture in the tank of a chainsaw that does not want to start, and it regularly enters the carburetor. With a full tank, we check how the mixture is fed through the gas line. Disconnect the fuel system pipe from the carburetor and try to pump it up. In the case of a complete order, when pumping up, gasoline will be supplied in jerks in accordance with the norms set by the manufacturer. Poor or no fuel supply may result from:

• The fuel supply channel is clogged;
• Debris-clogged fuel filter.

Often the reason for a poor start of the chainsaw can be a tank that is too full. In this case, you should pay attention to the presence of smudges under the saw case cover. If present, see the connection of the gasoline feed pipe to the carburetor. Most often, it is squeezed out by pressure when the tank cap is screwed on, which is filled under the very neck, which prevents the engine from starting.

The quality of the fuel mixture can also be one of the reasons why the chainsaw does not start. If, after completing the work, the remaining gasoline is not drained, and the tool is left for long-term storage (more than 2 weeks), then the processes of resin formation and polymerization of the components will begin to occur inside the tank. What can cause carbon deposits on the piston, rings and cylinder liner. Therefore, always prepare the mixture only in the required amount before work.

What tools will you need for home repairs?

You can carry out the work using the most accessible tools. Depending on the skills and abilities, you may need:

• vice;
• Angle Grinder;
• hammer;
• chisel;
• file;
• beard;
• pliers or passages.

Some craftsmen also use an electric welding machine. It is not recommended to use it, since the seams after welding quickly deteriorate under the influence of vibration during intensive operation of the chainsaw. This method is only suitable for gear chains that transmit forces to the drive sprocket.

Repair errors and their consequences

The quality of the work to shorten or increase the size of the chain on a chainsaw depends on adherence to the technological process. Major mistakes:

• the new element of the headset does not match in pitch, thickness or size of the teeth;
• setting the element in the wrong direction;
• the chain does not match the length of the bar;
• the rivet is loose or crooked.

Violation of the operation scheme can lead not only to damage to the tool, but also to dangerous injuries. You should carefully check each element of the headset even before you start sawing wood.

Rivet punch

It is a mechanical device similar to a conventional press. The package includes an anvil, grooves for fixing the saw headset with different tooth pitch. For convenience, there are interchangeable rivet extrusion tips. The tool is only intended for separating links.

What to do when the chain is stretched?

Connecting links

• Install the link with new rivets on the chain. Lay on the anvil, open side up.
• Put the top plate on the rivets, tap several times with a hammer for a tight connection.
• Attach the barb to the rivet, make 1-2 hard blows with a hammer. Achieve a pronounced thickening, flattening of the metal. Repeat the operation on both sides of the link.

After work, you should check that the chain is movable, all its elements move freely in different directions. This avoids jamming during the sawing process.

Important! The headset must not be mounted on a chainsaw if the links cannot move freely. After repairs or changes in length, check each element.

How to properly dress and tension the chain?

Gloves should be worn before starting work to avoid cuts on sharp teeth. You can only pull on a cold chain. after cooling it can burst from overvoltage, damaging the mechanism. Remove the protective cover from the chainsaw, carefully put it on the tire.

Depending on the configuration of the tool model, tension is applied manually or using a special regulator. In the first case, you need to loosen the bolts on the bus, after installing the chain, apply tension using a slotted screwdriver. If there is an adjusting bolt, turn it all the way until there is sufficient blade tension. After work, check that there is no slack, be sure to tighten it after the first use.

DIY chain shortening

You can also shorten the chainsaw chain with your own hands using simple tools. This method is less reliable, but easy to use, does not require special skills in working with riveting equipment. Disadvantage. you cannot control the strength and quality of crushing rivets. This can lead to tool breakage under severe stress.

Instructions: How to shorten a chainsaw chain with your own hands at home?

The chain is considered a consumable for a chainsaw. often than other elements fail and begin to sag, especially with frequent use. With intensive work, the metal of the links begins to heat up, which leads to stretching of the saw headset, a decrease in tension. To avoid planned replacement, the chain can also be shortened at home. The procedure is simple to implement, but you need to know how to properly remove the rivets and reassemble all the components.

• Why does the chain stretch on a chainsaw?
• What to do when the chain is stretched?
• Use of special equipment
• Rivet punch
• Riveting machine
• DIY chain shortening
• What tools will you need for home repairs?
• Removing rivets
• Connecting links
• How to properly dress and tension the chain?
• Repair errors and their consequences
• Prevention methods

Tensioner mechanisms

Depending on the design features of the tool, the tensioning mechanism of the headset may differ.

In budget models of chainsaws, a classic straight-threaded bolt is used to adjust the chain, which is located on the side of the body.

In this version, the package includes a special tightening wrench or there is an external slot for a slotted screwdriver.

All professional models are equipped with more convenient adjustment mechanisms. With the help of them, the chain can be pulled with one movement of the lever or by turning a special disc. Their design consists of a built-in tensioner, locking when turning is achieved by means of a lock nut. In some models, the adjustment is carried out by locking the tire in a certain position of the tool cover. Regardless of the method, the circuit voltage needs to be corrected only in a cold state. Hot chain tension causes sagging as it cools.

Tensioner device and principle of operation

The chain tension is adjusted by simply moving the bar:

• from the leading sprocket (from the chainsaw) to strengthen the tension;
• to the drive sprocket (to the chainsaw) to loosen the tension.

The tire is moved using a simple gear mechanism that transfers the force from the adjusting screw to the tire.

There is a spike on the adjusting shaft, which must necessarily fall into the hole on the tire when it is installed. This engagement is what causes the tire to move when adjusting.

The screw is located under the hole in the cover that covers the drive sprocket, on the side or front, depending on the model of the chainsaw.

The screw in most models has a slot for a flathead screwdriver. Rotating it clockwise or counterclockwise moves the tire slowly, millimeters per revolution. This makes it possible to simply and accurately achieve the desired tension.

The tensioner mechanism is simple, therefore reliable enough. It fails for the only reason. if the teeth of the drive gears are made of soft or brittle metal. Some unscrupulous manufacturers use parts made with powder metallurgy. The teeth on such gears quickly “lick”.

In such cases, you have to change the entire node. You can tension the chain by hand or with a vise. The tire is neatly, without pressure on the grooves, is fixed in a vice, the chainsaw is pulled from the vice until the desired chain tension is reached. This is a temporary measure. The chain has to be tightened often, and without an adjusting mechanism it is inconvenient to do this.

The adjustment is carried out with the bar and chain fully installed in place, with the fastening nuts being loosened, which, depending on the model, can be one or two.

Keyless tensioning system

It began to be used relatively recently, it is considered new, if not advanced. Differs from the classic nut, as follows:

• another tensioner mechanism;
• lack of an external tightening nut;
• adjustment without additional tools.

Instead of a turnkey nut for 13, there is a wing (swivel cap) on the lid with a handle for tightening by hand. It also has a nut, but it is hidden inside. Instead of an adjusting screw for a screwdriver in this system, the tension is carried out using a tension wheel (adjusting knob).

Instead of a gear shaft, there is a sprocket and a tension washer.

This system also has disadvantages:

• the mechanism itself is more complicated than a traditional wrench;
• installation of the cutting attachment causes additional problems, as complicates the process of pairing all the parts in the right order;
• less adjustment stroke, a slightly stretched chain will still serve with a traditional tensioning system, here it will sag and become unusable.

How to check the correct tension?

To ventilate the quality of tension, you should gently pull it back in the middle of the tire.

The permissible level of exit of the tails of the cutting links should be no more than 2/3 of their length.

You can also determine the need for a tightening by the following criteria:

• the appearance of a creak and rattle in the area of ​​\ u200b \ u200bthe main driving sprocket;
• loosening the tightening of the protective mechanism, tire fasteners;
• jamming when sawing, increased vibration and noise.

Chainsaw decreases productivity and increases operating time. Even when sawing soft wood, the chain starts to get stuck in the groove, the speed and smoothness of the movement are reduced.

Why chain tension is necessary?

The chain performs two functions at once. it directly cuts the wood and fixes the tire, preventing its arbitrary movement. The correct position and tension of the chainsaw chain allows you to fully operate the tool and avoid dangerous injuries during operation. If the saw head is installed incorrectly, it will easily fall off during sawing, injuring the operator. Even with a slight weakening, it gradually breaks the tire groove, which leads to the failure of the teeth of the driven sprocket.

In this case, excessive stress leads to an increase in the load on the rotor, a reduction in the saw’s service life. Therefore, it is important to regularly check the tension, if necessary, tighten the special mechanism on the tool body.

Important! Sagging can occur due to wear on parts. Usually this is the wear of the teeth of the sprockets, breakage of the outer edge of the tire groove.

How to tension the chain on a Stihl 180 chainsaw

The correct chain tension on chainsaws is of great importance. It affects the service life of the cutting attachment and the entire chain saw. over, with a critically incorrect tension, it is simply impossible to work with a gasoline chain saw.

Chainsaw chain tension. Chainsaw maintenance. Part 5

Learn how to properly tension your chainsaw and the consequences of improper chain tension. Familiar.

Stihl offers two options for chain tensioning of the chainsaw. fast and frontal. Both of them are used for improvement in the process of work. It should be noted that it is forbidden to pull on an overheated chain. According to the laws of physics, it will shrink after cooling down, and can burst from overtension or damage the tire.

In the frontal version, it is necessary to unscrew the nuts and lift the bar of the chainsaw, on which the chain is installed, by the edge. The bolt on the right must be turned with a screwdriver until the desired tension is obtained. Then the tire must be raised even higher and the nuts must be tightened back.
A quick version of the chain tensioning of the Stihl chainsaw assumes the following: the tension wheel located on top must be turned all the way to the right, after lifting the handle of the wing nut and loosening it. After the operation, the nut is tightened again and the handle is lowered. This concludes the procedure. Stihl chainsaw models have some differences in chain tensioning rules, it is advisable to find instructions for the tuned model.

Rapid Super Line (RS)

This line is designed for professionals. Of course, no one forbids the use of such chains on household models of chainsaws, but their cost is slightly higher than conventional chains, for example, Picco Micro 3 will cost much less.

According to the manufacturer, Rapid Super is able to work for a long time without sharpening and their productivity is not just high, but extremely high. Such a headset easily copes with heavily soiled or frozen wood. If you look at the design options, it becomes clear that this chain is definitely not for light and compact chainsaws. The maximum size marketed for sale is 105 links, which is almost twice as long as the chain on the Stihl MC 180.

3/8 ″ P Picco Super (PS) 1.3mm

The Picco Super is the first chain in the world to have a chisel tooth, according to the manufacturer. Designed by Stihl specifically for forestry professionals. Easy penetration, comfortable vibration and smooth running. It features a clean cutting surface, which is important for those who are engaged in woodcarving with a chainsaw. Execution options:

• 3/8 in P Picco Super, 1.3 mm (44)
• 3/8 ” P Picco Super, 1.3mm (50)
• 3/8 in P Picco Super 1.3 mm (55).

Can be used with both professional, semi-professional and household chainsaws.

1/4 ″ Rapid Micro Spezial (RMS), 1.3mm

Designed specifically for shaped cuts in wood. A distinctive feature is the shortened upper edge of the tooth, thanks to which there is no need to press on the saw in order for the chain to cut into the wood. It is characterized by high speed and smoothness when making curved cuts compared to conventional chains with the same 1/4 ″ pitch. Available in two versions:

• 1/4 Rapid Micro Spezial, 1.3mm (56)
• 1/4 Rapid Micro Spezial 1.3mm (64).

Which rip saw chain to use

From users of chainsaws, the question often comes: which chain is suitable for rip sawing and are there chains specially designed for this purpose.

At the moment, there are no chains specially designed for sawing a tree trunk along, and most likely will not appear, since any saw chain can be used for these purposes. The difference between a conventional headset and a longitudinal one is the sharpening angle.

With the help of a straightening machine, you can make a special one from an ordinary headset. it facilitates a longitudinal cut. You can find information on how exactly this is done on our website.

3/8 ″ P Picco Micro Mini 3 (PMM3), 1.1mm

A distinctive feature is the narrowest cut possible. Abbreviation PMM3. It is recommended for entry-level chainsaws, as well as pole and brush cutters. Has three versions:

• 3/8 ″ P Picco Micro Mini 3 (PMM3), 1.1mm (39);
• 3/8 ″ P Picco Micro Mini 3 (PMM3), 1.1mm (44);
• 3/8 ″ P Picco Micro Mini 3 (PMM3), 1.1mm (50).

Can be used on Stihl chainsaws MC 170, 180, 211, 230. Belongs to the comfort class, since it has minimal vibration and recoil.

Important: a chain with a width of 1.1 mm must be used with an appropriate bar, otherwise, it will dangle in the seat, which will lead to rapid wear of both the headset itself and the guide bar.

Sharpening machine Stihl

a little about the Stihl sharpener. To date, the USG machine is presented on the official website of the company. The sharpening on the machine works automatically, and the feed is carried out manually. The machine is capable of sharpening not only the cutting edge of the working tooth, but also the depth gauge, which is impossible to do on similar machines of competitors. For more information about the Stihl sharpening machine and its work, see the video.

The reasons for the rupture of the saw headset

Sometimes, when using a chainsaw, the headset may break. This phenomenon is not common, but it does happen from time to time. There may be several reasons, the first and the most common is severe wear. In the process of work, the edges rub against the tire, as a result, the metal is gradually erased and the chain, not withstanding the load, breaks.

Important! The use of high-quality adhesive oils can significantly extend the life of the saw headset.

The second reason is the untimely replacement of the drive sprocket and the guide bar or their replacement separately. According to the recommendations given by manufacturers, the saw headset, bar and drive sprocket should be replaced as a set. This will prevent wear, stretching and tearing due to increased stress.

Third, this is a marriage when sharpening with a special sharpening machine. The disc of the machine rotates at high speeds and if the depth of the groove is adjusted incorrectly or, for some reason, the working stroke of the machine increases, then a fraction of a second is enough to cut the edges of the connecting link. If, after sharpening, you do not check its quality and the presence of cut links, then during operation under load, the cut link may break.

Fourth and last, there is a defect in the rivets. A common cause of chain breaks is improper connection or reuse of connecting links. If your cutting attachment is torn, then information on how to connect the chain will be very useful.

Rapid Duro 3 (RD3) 1.6mm

This line of Stihl chains has an increased resource due to the use of special hard alloys in them. Designed for use in agriculture, i.e. recommended for semi-professional Stihl models. There are a lot of options. The Rapid Duro 3 (RD3) 1.6mm can be 0.325, 3/8 or 0.404 in. The most expensive chain in this line costs about 2,500 rubles. and has a length of 66 links.