How to Make a Line For a Circular Saw

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An auxiliary ruler and other circular devices that will be discussed below are needed, for example, to hide a groove disk when cutting a fold, install a clamp so that the workpiece is pressed more firmly onto the circular sheet (table), etc.

The line consists of three strips of plywood with a pair of folds and grooves (Fig. 1), as well as a profile with a groove for a T-shaped screw (hereinafter referred to as T-profile) installed in its grooves. Installing accessories takes a couple of seconds.

Ruler design

Start making a line by making side walls A from 20 mm plywood.

The length of the side walls is equal to the length of the standard ruler, and the width (height) is sufficient to provide good support for the workpiece and to freely pass parts from above.

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Grooves and folds.

Having cut the side walls to the size, on top of each part, cut the seam (Fig. 2) and the groove on the front side of one of them. The groove should be sized so that the T-shaped profile is flush with the front surface of the ruler.

Drilling mounting holes.

The next step is to determine the position of the mounting holes for mounting the auxiliary ruler. It is fixed with handles, washers and a pair of embedded bolts. The holes are drilled at the same distance from the ends of the ruler (Fig. 3) so that it can be used on either side of the disc. The bolt heads must be recessed.

Spacer.

Now connect the side walls with the spacer B. It is necessary to clamp the standard ruler between the side walls of the auxiliary ruler, measure the distance between the folds, and then cut the spacer.

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Second groove. On the spacer, the groove for the second T-shaped profile is selected. Its size must be determined so that the profile is flush. Regardless of the width of the spacer, the groove is located at a distance of 22 mm from the outer front side of the ruler.

Assembly.

Attach the side walls to the spacer with glue and screws.

Then fasten the T-profiles in the grooves. On the outer edges of the line, chamfer at an angle of 45 ° to avoid chipping plywood (Fig. 4).

Installation The auxiliary ruler is fastened with a pair of embedded bolts in order to avoid its rise in the case of using a clamp. To attach an auxiliary ruler, drill through the mounting holes in its side walls. Then insert the embedded bolts, put on the washers and tighten the handles.

Auxiliary planes

Auxiliary planes are parts of 20 mm plywood that are attached to the T-profile in the side wall of the auxiliary line with recessed bolts for T-slots with nuts and washers (Fig. 5 and 5a).

How to Make a Line For a Circular Saw

The selection on the auxiliary plane C allows you to hide the disk for the grooves when cutting the folds. The high D plane provides additional support for wide (high) workpieces.

Video: How to Make a Line For a Circular Saw


Rammer

The rammer allows you to hold your hands at a safe distance from the disk when cutting thin parts and ensures the supply of the part until the cut is completed. A distinctive feature of the rammer is the handle that moves in the upper T-shaped profile of the ruler. To pass the thin bar through the disk, there is a heel on the rammer that can be raised (or lowered) depending on the thickness of the workpiece.

A pen.

Handle H is made from 20 mm hardwood plywood. After cutting a short tenon along the lower edge under the T-shaped profile (Fig. 6), cut the handle along the contour and round the ribs.

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Body.

Attach the housing F to the handle, consisting of a groove bar and a narrow outer bar. The shallow 5 mm groove in the main part is for the heel, and the outer bar fixes the heel in place with two bolts, washers and wing nuts.

Heel.

Heel G. a replaceable part from a 6-mm fiberboard with a small tooth on the lower edge. The tooth rests on the workpiece and feeds it to the saw blade.

PRESS

The clip is an integral part of the desktop circular. In addition to firmly pressing the workpiece to the saw table, it also protects it from recoil towards the person performing the work.

The clamp consists of two parts. the base for attaching it to the auxiliary ruler and the clamp itself with flexible “fingers” that hold the workpiece (Fig. 7).

Base.

The base H is a rectangle of 6 mm hardwood, which rests on the upper plane of the auxiliary ruler. So that you can work with the clamp on the front side of the grooved disc, a short slot is made at the base. Two through holes drilled at the ends of the base are designed to hold the clamp in place with bolts, washers and handles.

Clip.

Since the clamp I works in difficult conditions, make it of 12 mm solid wood. Mark out the grooves, cut them out and clean. In order for the “fingers” to clamp the workpiece during operation, saw off the end of the workpiece with them at an angle of 30 °. Then, cut the opposite end at the same angle.

To make "fingers", you need to cut a number of grooves. So that there is the same gap between them, make a special device.

Limiter

The last device. the limiter. allows you to saw a lot of small parts of the same length. The L-shaped stop (fig. 8.) is easily fixed in place. To avoid picking up the workpiece, the pore provides a gap between the part and the ruler.

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The limiter consists of two parts. the base J and the stand K. Both parts are made of 20 mm hardwood and are connected with glue and screws.

The hole in the middle of the rack serves to attach the stopper to the T-profile. A small chamfer along the lower edge of the base provides clearance for the removal of sawdust.

Fixture 1

Quickly and easily, the slots in the clip can be cut using the tool shown in fig. 9. It has two slots at a distance of 3 mm from each other: an insert is glued in one, the saw blade enters the other. Note. The saw blade must be tilted at an angle of 30 degrees.

To saw out the first slot in the clip, attach the part to the backing board so that it snuggles firmly against the insert (Fig. 9a). Take the first pass. Having cut out the first slot, unfasten the part and put it on the insert. Then fasten the part again and make a second pass. Repeat this operation until you have cut out all the “fingers” on the clip.

Fixture 2

The auxiliary ruler to the T-shaped longitudinal ruler of the circular (Fig. 10) almost does not differ from the ruler described above. All parts are the same size except for the L insert, which is wider. On the new line, the groove for the T-shaped profile should be at the same distance (22 mm) from its front side.

After collecting the auxiliary ruler and attaching it with a long embedded bolt, add a clip. In this case, this is an L-shaped assembly, consisting of the upper part M and the legs N, fastened with glue and screws.

A small groove in the clamp leg allows you to put it on the rear end of the assembly of the longitudinal ruler, firmly attaching it to the table.