Bosch hobs, both gas and electric, have proven themselves in modern kitchens. In order for the panel to serve for a long time and regularly please its owners, it must be properly connected. The commissioning of a gas hob is best entrusted to a gas service specialist so as not to endanger the life and health of those nearby. If your choice is an electric stove, then, having minimal skills of working with a screwdriver, you can deal with connecting a bosch hob yourself. The recommendations from this article will help you.
Bosch panel owners are pleased to note the benefits of their purchase:
ease of use;
ease in maintaining cleanliness;
beauty and elegance.
And therefore, if you connect such a panel correctly, then you will use it for a long time and with pleasure!
Preparation of furniture for a built-in hob
Most often, the hole in the countertop under the stove is cut even in the manufacture of a kitchen set. But if you need to prepare furniture yourself. do not be embarrassed. Any person who knows how to hold a jigsaw in his hands will cope with this work.
Hob layout must be done, given that from its edge to the contour of the countertop should remain at least 50 mm. Holes with a diameter of 8-10 mm are drilled at the corners of the marking. An electric jigsaw with a fine-toothed nail file on a tree gently cuts the mowing line from one hole to another. In this case, the jigsaw must be firmly pressed to the countertop.
The edges of the carved niche need process with silicone sealant. After that, fasteners-clamps are screwed to the slices. Having prepared the furniture, you can begin to connect electricity.
The electric hob must be connected to a dedicated outlet with sufficient grounding. For such a socket, you will have to draw a separate branch from the shield and be sure to connect it to a separate 32 A machine. The cable laid to the socket must be copper with a cross-section of at least 4 mm² in it. Depending on the type of outlet you choose, the cable can be three- or four-core.
Video: How to Connect a Bosch Electric Hob
How to choose a power outlet?
How to connect the hob to the power grid of your home? For this it is important to choose the right
The electricity in your apartment has single phase and 220 volt input? Then you need a socket and plug with three pins.
You have purchased equipment for the kitchen of a modern private house, which has two phases and380 volt electrical input? Then, for an even load distribution, the hob is best connected to two phases. In this case, a socket and a plug with four contacts are used.
In the first case, the blue wire (zero) is attached to the left contact, black or brown (phase) to the right. The yellow-green ground wire is attached to the contact, usually located below or above the main pair.
In case of connection four-pin outlet must be guided by the marking of the cores on the cover of the outlet. Be careful! Sockets of various manufacturers are distinguished by their design.
Important! It is necessary to check in advance whether the presence of the phase corresponds to the colors of the wire. To do this, use a tester.
How to connect the cable to the panel?
Regardless of which outlet you had to install, the cable for connecting to the hob must be four-wire. Cable cores are connected to the terminals of the electrical box-connector, which is on the back of the stove. Remove the lid from the box by first unscrewing the bolts.
Each hob has a circuit for connecting it to the mains. It shows the terminal box contacts. Take a closer look wiring diagram. Phase (brown and black wires), zero (blue wire) and ground (yellow-green) should each be connected to its terminal strictly according to the figure. Pay attention to the careful connection of the wire core to the terminal contact.
Important! Once again, check that the wires are correctly positioned before closing the cover.
Connecting the plug to the cable
With a four-pin plug, everything is clear. Marked colored cores of the cable are connected according to the instructions on the plug cover, according to the socket contacts. But what about three-pin socket, when four wires need to be connected to three contacts? To do this, two phases (black and brown wires) must be twisted together and connected to the contact "phase".
Without plug and socket
Sometimes hob directly connected to the electric circuit, without plug and socket. This is possible because the panel is stationary equipment and the need to connect and disconnect the plate is extremely rare. However, the ability to turn off the stove at any time for its maintenance or repair, relocation or replacement of kitchen furniture may be useful. In addition, connecting with a plug and socket is safe, convenient and beautiful.
Replacing the panel
The electrical part of the work is done. It’s time to put the panel in place. It is necessary to carefully turn the plate and install on previously prepared fasteners. The hob is secured from below with the bolts supplied. Now you can test.
Attention! Due to the high cost of the device and the danger posed by electricity, in order to avoid injuries and unnecessary breakdowns, evaluate your capabilities correctly. If you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to entrust the connection of the panel to a professional electrician.
Today, the punch is one of the most popular tools, so it is difficult to underestimate its benefits. The tool is used by both experienced professionals and ordinary amateurs. In many situations, without this device would have been tight. In this article, we look at how to insert a drill into a puncher so as not to damage it. A masterful ability to correctly use the tool will help bring your work to perfection. To insert the drill into the tool, you will need a hammer drill, drill, chuck and grease.
What is a hammer drill
Before installing a drill in a perforator, it is first of all necessary to understand. Today it is difficult to finish repairs or construction without resorting to the help of a perforator. When drilling is needed, this tool is simply indispensable. The punch is used during work with concrete and brick, it is also often used for work on metal or wood as a regular drill.
Many functions make this tool universal. rotation with impact, impact without rotation, rotation without impact, drilling in concrete, function of a jackhammer, drilling in wood and metal and many others. You need to know that there are many types of hammer drill. The principle of using the tool is the same, but if you need to drill a wide and deep hole, it is better to use a larger and more powerful device.
To work with this tool, you need various snap-ins. drills, concrete drills for perforator, chisels, blades and crowns. Drills and crowns are used when drilling holes, drills are designed for concrete and stone, bits are used for mortising work, and blades are needed to knock down plaster or old tile. All the nozzles on the punch have the shape of a shank, due to which fast and reliable fixation in the cartridge is carried out.
Special angle nozzles, a dust extraction system, mixers for mixing mortars or paints, chisels and various types of nozzles (sharpening drills, a water pump, a nozzle for cutting metal in sheets) can also be used with a hammer drill. Before starting any work with a rotary hammer, make sure that it is properly equipped and suitable for future work. A tool too small may not be able to handle the heavy load.
When working with a hammer drill, be sure to remember the protective equipment. These include glasses, earplugs, and gloves. You should also work in special clothing, excluding anything that might accidentally wrap around a drill or drill. When working with the device, do not put pressure on it; this may end badly.
Try not to idle the tool for too long, this is only allowed before checking it. When working with porous material, use hammerless drilling so that it does not crumble. If you have to work with solid material, it is better to use a cutting fluid emulsion. If the work involves the use of a long drill, to save money, you can start working with a shorter metal drill for a perforator, but of the same diameter.
Grease the drill shanks every 180-200 holes. Pay attention to the heating of the instrument, with strong heating it is better to take a break. Alternate periods of work and rest of the tool. As a rule, a break is done every thirty minutes. Its duration. about ten minutes.
How to insert a drill into a hammer drill: step by step instructions
If, when working with a puncher, all the rules are taken into account and attention is paid to the subtleties, the work will be done competently and easily. Always follow construction technologies and do not forget to periodically check the tool for malfunctions.
Before you start replacing the drill or working with the tool, you must make sure that it is working. To do this, insert the plug into the outlet, and put the hammer into the drilling mode without a fight (left extreme position). After that, the start button is pressed. If you hear an even sound, devoid of glitches and jerks, you can get to work.
Before starting work, do not forget to check the walls or other surfaces for water or electrical wiring. The handle must be securely fastened and not loose during operation. A timely check or inspection will help to avoid injuries and breakdowns of the device.
Please note: never touch the rotating parts of the tool, otherwise it can lead to a sad outcome. For the same reason, it is only necessary to install the drill chuck and drill for the bosh punch with the plug unplugged from the socket.
You need to purchase a special chuck that fits your rotary hammer model. If you can’t choose or don’t know which cartridge is needed, it’s best to take a tool with you and try compatibility on the spot.
Video: Bosch Drill How To Insert A Drill
Today, rotary hammers are equipped with two types of cartridges. keyless and key. The key option is traditional, the drill on a tree for a puncher in it is clamped using a special key. In this case, the mount is reliable, but less convenient than that of the quick-release chuck. The keyless chuck easily clamps the drill without the aid of any tools. Just choose the most suitable option and follow the further instructions.
Choosing a drill for a hammer drill
Today, drills are made from carbon, high speed and alloy steels. If you have to work with durable materials, the drill can be equipped with heavy-duty hard soldering. Drills are feather, centering, with straight flutes and spiral (for deep drilling).
You can also purchase a drill designed for wood, metal, stone, concrete, glass, ceramic, diamond or a universal option. Before you fix the drill in the punch, you need to decide on the type, if you want the work to be done correctly. The color of the drill indicates the form of the final result.
If the drill is painted black, it means that it was treated with superheated steam, but this does not affect the quality, despite the popular opinion that black drills are stronger. If the drill has a brown or slightly golden hue, most likely it was subjected to tempering to relieve internal stresses. Drills that are processed with titanium nitrile have a bright golden color, such options are the most expensive and durable.
As a rule, good companies indicate on the drill box its characteristics, such as the grade of steel and the material with which it is possible to work. If the drill heats up significantly during operation, it means that it has become dull or has been sharpened incorrectly.
How to get a drill from a punch
If an old drill bit is inserted in the punch, it must be carefully replaced. Before pulling out any nozzle, be sure to pay attention to the type of its cartridge. Remember, the keyless and keyless chuck. The key is more reliable, especially when working in shock mode. This cartridge is made of metal, therefore it is less exposed to mechanical damage.
Before you pull out the drill from the punch with a double-coupled quick-clamping chuck, it is imperative to switch the device to reverse mode. After that, it is necessary to fix the lower sleeve with one hand and with the other. unscrew the top. In a one-jaw cartridge, the nozzle can be replaced with only one hand, since it is placed on rotary hammers with automatic locking of the shaft.
If the drill is stuck
There are times when the working tool is stuck in the cartridge and does not want to be pulled out. Here you need to know the following. To gently pull out the nozzle, it is necessary to clamp its free part in a vice and hammer the cams of the chuck through a wooden extension with a hammer until the drill tail comes out of the quick-clamp chuck. If the drill bit is stuck firmly in the punch, and this does not help, you can remove the cartridge and place it in gasoline, and drop a little automobile oil into the key cartridge.
Also, there are often situations when the drill gets stuck in the wall during concrete construction work. This occurs during clamping between concrete and reinforcement. You must stop pulling the trigger and loosening the hammer, as it may break. To get started, pull the drill out of the chuck, replace it, and begin to carefully knock out the concrete around the stuck drill. Avoid getting stuck in a drill. After this procedure, a stuck drill can be removed without difficulty.
For proper operation of the tool, it is necessary to lubricate the punch with special grease. It is better to purchase a proprietary product that is resistant to water and prevents moisture from entering metal surfaces, which prevents corrosion from appearing.
To do this, open the tube with grease and squeeze a little into the hole into which the nozzles are inserted. Next, the tool is placed on the floor or on another hard, comfortable surface with the handle, after which the back of the punch head is pulled down, the chuck is inserted, and the lower part of the head is returned to its previous position.
After the above steps, you can insert the Makita drill bit into the chuck. Then, by rotating the upper part of the cartridge clockwise, it is necessary to clamp the drill. After this, be sure to check whether it is firmly fixed.
If you understand that the drill is loose, try tightening the chuck harder. After the final fastening and compliance with all actions, you can turn on the hammer in the network. Press the start button several times so that the grease can disperse well into parts.
Beginning of work
Before starting work, you need to make sure what mode the tool is in. For one minute, he should be idling. Be sure to check the operation of the gearbox so that it does not emit vibrations, excess noise or sounds. Nor should smoke or odor resemble burning insulation.
For drilling, it is necessary to install the drill in the place where the hole will be made and only then press the power button. When working with a punch, do not put too much pressure on the surface. Modern rotary hammers have the property of on / off. This property of the tool is able to provide the main work with a decrease in speed. Thanks to this mode, the hole will be made in a precisely defined place and the drill will not go to the side.
When drilling metal or wood, do not turn on the shock mechanism, this can lead to damage to the device. There are rotary hammers in which an automatic shutdown mechanism is installed when the wrong option is selected. During construction work, drilling can be used for drilling concrete. To free a hole from dust, it is necessary to periodically remove a part of the drill and return it to its place.
Rotary Hammer Operation
How long the hammer will serve will depend on compliance with all the rules of its operation. When working with a material such as concrete, you should not save money on lubricating the tool. If the tool fails, it must be taken to a service center. Even if it is not damaged, from time to time it is worth taking it for inspection by masters.
Please note that some malfunctions provoke injuries, this is especially true for powerful punchers with a strong blow. If the drill in the punch is jammed strongly, or you are not completely sure of your abilities, it is also better to seek the help of qualified specialists!
To clean the tool from building dust, you can use a vacuum cleaner. When using a punch, it is worth remembering the rest mode, the device tends to heat up even at low speeds. Follow the instructions that came with the device.
Given all the above, it can be concluded that the self-insertion of the drill into the hammer is a very simple procedure. Also remember that under the law, a hammer can only be used after seven in the morning and until eleven in the evening. Try to carry out repair processes on weekdays from nine in the morning and finish them until seven in the evening.
Makita UR3501 is a garden electric trimmer with a modern design and advanced technical parameters. It has decent performance, and is able to give odds to many competitors. The trimmer is indispensable for lawn care, and also effective in the treatment of hard-to-reach places. flower beds and paths. The equipment has successfully passed all tests in small areas. This proves the reliability and overall performance of the Makita UR3501. In addition, this can explain the high demand for this trimmer. It is inexpensive and practical to use, and will satisfy any business executive.
The trimmer has an extensive set of advantages that dominate the disadvantages. Consider the main design advantages of the Makia UR3501:
Ergonomic handle of the D-shaped form. has a flexible adjustment depending on the growth of the operator. The main controls of the trimmer are placed on the handle
Protective cover. protects the operator and trimmer from flying grass and solid objects. stones and tree branches
Shoulder Strap. Standard. It is much easier to work with him. The belt relieves stress from the back. Thus, the operator will be less tired and will be able to work longer
A set of tools is also included in the basic package. Using special keys, you can assemble the equipment
Powerful electrical installation, capable of developing maximum speed immediately after starting the engine
Lightweight aluminum bar. thanks to it, it was possible to significantly reduce the weight of the trimmer
Cutting head. included in the basic kit. It has a robust construction and is equipped with a fishing line with a diameter of 2 mm. It is extremely undesirable to hit the ground in order to release the fishing line to the desired depth. This is detrimental to the cutting head itself, and negatively affects its reliability. It is better to lengthen the fishing line manually, and this should be done with the engine turned off
The extension cord is 30 meters long. Section parameters. 3×1.5 sq. mm
The Makita UR3501 trimmer must not be used in damp climates or on wet surfaces.
Video: How to Change Fishing Line For Bosch Trimmer
When using the trimmer, it is important to comply with safety regulations, of which the most basic are optional accessories, namely glasses and gloves. Thus, glasses will protect the operator’s eyes from flying grass during operation, while rubber gloves will provide a more comfortable grip on the handle. In addition, thanks to the gloves, the hands will not slip off the steering wheel.
Before using the trimmer, the manufacturer is recommended to make sure that the voltage of the mains is stable and that there are no surges and voltage drops. The fact is that noise and vibration can adversely affect the life of the motor.
Many owners remove the protective cover from the trimmer so that it does not interfere. In fact, this is not recommended. However, some owners of a different opinion. they believe that this will increase the productivity of the equipment. I use the trimmer several times for 20 minutes a day. certainly, with breaks of 15 minutes. This frequency of operation eliminates engine overheating.
The trimmer is equipped with a precast rod and a cutting knife, so sometimes it requires at least seasonal lubrication.
The trimmer is equipped with an electric motor with a power of 1000 watts. The engine with a top location, the rod. collapsible type, curved shape. Handle. D-shaped handicap. The shoulder strap is worn on one shoulder. The scope of delivery includes fishing line with a diameter of 2 mm and a cutting width of 350 mm.
The mass of the device is 4.3 kg. The warranty period for the trimmer is two years from the date of purchase. The technique is made in China.
On the Russian market, the average cost of a Makita UR3501 trimmer is 5 thousand rubles.
When the drill is working properly, the user does not have any questions, but there are cases requiring dismantling, many get into a stupor, solving the problem: how to remove the cartridge from the drill. To correctly perform such an operation, you need to know how the cartridge is mounted on the shaft, and then already begin dismantling.
The following types of cartridges:
keyless action or self-clamping device;
sds devices of a collet type;
On a drill with keyless chuck you can change the drill or other nozzle quite quickly, without the need to use any additional devices. The cartridges of the first option are divided into single and double coupling devices.
One-piece devices have a shaft locking system that is triggered during tool change. They have a significant negative point. the very low strength of the fixing elements, the outer parts of the cartridge are made of plastic, which greatly increases their damage and breakdown of the entire device.
Cartridge repair of this kind is not provided. only a replacement.
Manufacturers put on percussion models and perforators cam products, because their design is more robust. mainly turnkey cartridges are used here, for reliable fastening of the drill.
Collet type The cartridge was created back in the 70s of the last century, its design is different in that there are two grooves in the rear part, and the drill must be deepened by 40 mm with screwdriving movements. There are 4 grooves: 2 fixing, 2. for guiding the wedges, the cutting tool is fixed with locking balls.
In a classic gear device, the tightening is adjusted using key for cartridge, which comes with the drill kit. To properly unscrew the cartridge, you must adhere to the recommendations of an experienced master, for this, watch this video:
The chuck on the shaft of an electric or manual drill is fastened in two ways. a conical connection and a thread, so there are a minimum of varieties. In practice, there are devices with metric or inch threads, and markings are always present on the body of the product, even the smallest one.
For example, a designation of this kind 1.5-15M13x1.2 is deciphered as follows:
1.5-15 is the diameter of the tail of the cutting tool in millimeters;
M13. metric thread with a diameter of 13 mm;
1,2. thread pitch.
Using thread in inches. UNF and diameter: 1/2 ”is indicated. This type of connection is considered international and is used in all instruments of foreign manufacturers. For special reliability, a stop is placed on the shaft, in the form of a screw on the left-hand thread. this must be taken into account when confusing how to disassemble the cartridge of an imported drill. Unscrew it only clockwise.
Video: How to Disassemble a Bosch Gsb 16 Re Drill
The second method uses morse cone, which today is more often called an instrumental cone. The shaft has a tapered part at the end, on which the device is mounted, with a little effort to make a tight connection. The marking is: B10, where the letter indicates the use of the cone, and the number indicates the diameter of the tail of the cutting tool. This type of fastening is common with screwdrivers.
Some drills are equipped with an adapter (adapter) for the clamping mechanism, which allows drilling with maximum accuracy.
In modern models of drills, such as Interskol or Makita, the fixing of a drill or other nozzles is carried out by a chuck with cam mechanism: 3 or 4 cams securely hold the cutting tool, they can only move along the axis of the drill shaft. The keyless chuck is manually adjustable, more complex designs used in modern drills. with a key.
During operation, a beating of the clamped bit may appear, the cause is the wear of the cams during prolonged use. The tool repair is carried out as follows: it is necessary to remove the device from the shaft, the same actions are necessary when jamming the drill, because it can only be removed after the cartridge part is completely disassembled.
There is also such a malfunction: cartridge rotates relative to the tool shaft. The reason for this behavior is damage to the threaded part of the device mount, or the landing cone has a subsidence. The way out of this situation is to change the cartridge to a working analogue.
Tool for work
Replacing the drill chuck is easy if you know the design of this unit and the methods for attaching it. To carry out repairs you will need a simple set of tools:
bench vise, you can use not standard, but a smaller version for household needs;
pliers or pliers;
medium sized pipe wrench;
set of wrenches;
sanding paper for grinding.
The list indicates the minimum set, there are situations where other locksmith tools may be required.
Dismantle the cartridge
Depending on the method of attaching the cartridge mechanism, disassembly methods will vary.
It is necessary to disassemble such a design in this order.
Gently loosen the locking screw.
We unscrew the cartridge counterclockwise, if the thread is tightened to the conscience, we clamp the tool shaft in a vice. To unscrew, use a gas key. Then we remove the device and examine it for integrity and serviceability.
If the drill bit is jammed in the lips, then we apply not strong, but accurate hammer blows using a punch on the cams from above.
Installation is carried out in reverse order. When tightening a new device, the shaft must lock from turning free hand. Last we twist the locking device. To help home craftsmen video:
It is quite easy to remove the cartridge from the conical part of the shaft. The drill kit should have a special device for this purpose, but many experienced craftsmen use this method: they turn the tool upside down with a drill, fix it and evenly hit the back of the device with a hammer and knock it off the shaft.
After dismantling it is necessary sand conical surfaces with an emery cloth, if there are scuffs on the surface, then remove them with a file. The new cartridge is installed in place even easier. with the blow of a mallet on top, it sits tightly at the junction.
Users need to remember that removing a drill or other attachment when stuck in a chuck requires certain skills and the ability to handle locksmith tools, but in any case, you must dismantle the device. If the drill cartridge is out of order, then it must be replaced.
Hello! The question of how to insert a drill into a puncher can mean two different things to different people:
One is wondering how to install a drill, which they mistakenly call a drill.
The second one needs to know how to install a drill from a drill
This article will highlight both aspects.
How to insert a drill?
A simple, it would seem, question, which, however, may present some difficulties for inexperienced users who are first holding a hammer drill.
There are two installation methods.
One of them is simple. you need to immerse the shank of the drill in the cartridge until it clicks. After that, he will not fall out.
The second method requires pulling back the cartridge skirt before installation. That is, pull it towards the tool body and, holding it in this position, stick the shank into the seat.
The first method is usually used on all professional devices. Makita, Bosch, DeWalt, Hitachi, Metabo, AEG, etc., as well as on branded household models. Skil, Ryobi, Black-and-Decker, etc.
The second. on cheap Chinese units. This, for example, Caliber, Bison, Patriot, Kolner, Omax, Whirlwind and a bunch of others. True, it is worth saying that among them there are models where installation is also carried out in a more convenient first way.
Video: How to Insert a Drill into a Bosch Hammer
In this case, extraction in both cases is carried out by pulling the skirt towards the body.
How to insert a drill drill into a hammer drill?
In this case, you will have to use an adapter. It is an ordinary cartridge like an electric drill (key or quick-clamping. no difference), into which an adapter is screwed, one end of which has a thread, and the other has nothing other than the same shank as the drill.
Cartridges can be with different threads. Usually, for our case, they are used either 1/2 inch or metric M12. Accordingly, the adapter must also have a similar threaded fit.
The adapter is screwed into the cartridge. Then, for reliable fixation, the supplied screw having a left-hand thread is screwed into it from the inside of the cartridge.
Now the assembled structure needs to be thrust into the hammer drill just like the drills are installed in it. And in the end we get, in fact, an electric drill, in which, however, the cartridge will have some backlash.
There is no need to work in shock mode. the assembled adapter will not stand up and will quickly fail.
Lucky for those who bought the unit immediately with such an adapter. In addition, there are such models of perforations that have two chucks replacing each other. one for drills, the other for drills.
The advantage of this configuration is that in this case there is no backlash that is available when using the adapter. So the puncher is already becoming a completely full drill. But overpay for such a model, of course, have to.
That’s actually all the information on installing drills and drills in a punch. I hope it was clear. I say goodbye to this. until we meet again!
Angle grinders (angle grinder, angle grinder) under the German brand Bosch are of high quality, reliability and durability. The main competitive advantage of Bosch angle grinders lies in the widespread use of innovative technologies in the manufacture of the product.
But German quality cannot resist Russian negligence. Improper use of the tool, untimely replacement of grease, carbon brushes, bearings leads to failure of the tool.
In order to repair a Bosch angle grinder, you can go in two ways: give the angle grinder to a service center or repair the Bosch angle grinder with your own hands.
The first option is more expensive and not always high quality. The second option can be implemented only if the consumer has a great desire to figure everything out on his own.
A diagram of the Bosch angle grinder will help you repair yourself.
Bosch angle grinders are conventionally divided into low-power up to 1000 W, and powerful over 1000 W are marked GWS 7-125, GWS 20-230 or others.
The first number of 20 or more indicates a tool power of more than 1000 watts. The second number 230 confirms that this is the maximum diameter of the cutting wheel.
The first digit up to 20 indicates the power of the tool up to 1000 watts, and the second about the maximum diameter of the cutting wheel up to 125 mm.
Design Features of Bosch Angle Grinder
The design feature of the Bosch angle grinder is presented in the gearbox as a thrust bearing of a driven helical gear of a needle bearing. In Bosch rotary hammers, the driven gear is mounted on the spindle shaft by compression.
In Bosch angle grinders of low power, in which spur gears are placed in the gearboxes, the installation of shims is provided. This design allows you to restore the functionality of the contact gears, reducing the thickness of the gasket. Helical gears at high tool speeds wear out significantly less than spur gears.
The working environment of grinders is most often a dusty space. Dust is the main danger leading to failure of the power tool, an amorous and angle grinder.
Repair tool required
To repair a Bosch angle grinder, a tool is indispensable. We’ll make a reservation right away, if you have a screwdriver, this will significantly speed up the process of disassembling and assembling the tool.
But you can get by with a set of screwdrivers, preferably with a ratchet mechanism. You can not do without an open-end wrench, with which you will unscrew the nut securing the leading helical gear.
It is better to have a special puller for dismantling the bearings.
Diagnostics of the electrical part can be carried out using a tester or a short circuit detection device.
It is especially useful in that it allows you to determine the malfunction of the rotor or stator without removing the assembly.
The diagram of the Bosch angle grinder will help you carry out repairs yourself, and these instructions will help you adequately cope with any problem.
DIY disassembling Bosch angle grinder
For the owner of a power tool, knowledge of his device and the ability to disassemble is a must.
Knowing the disassembly procedure, the angle grinder allows you to independently perform such tasks as changing grease, changing bearings and carbon brushes.
To disconnect the gear housing pos. 821 from the stator housing pos. 888, it is necessary to disassemble (remove) the handle housing, angle grinder pos. 24.
This operation must be performed to remove the carbon brushes pos.810 holding the rotor manifold.
In the second stage, unscrew the 4 (four) screws pos. 61 that secure the gear housing and stator.
Having pulled out the rotor together with the gearbox, proceed to disassemble the gearbox.
Repair angle Bosch grinder begins with the disassembly of the gear pos.821. Dismantling of the gearbox starts with unscrewing 4 (four) screws pos. 60. As a rule, the screws are screwed into the sealant at the factory. Will have to make some efforts.
Just note! For Bosch low power grinders, the gearbox uses spur gears. For grinders with a power of more than 1000 watts, helical gears are used in the gearboxes.
How to remove the driven gear
After removing the gearbox cover, you can get the helical gear assembly pos. 26.
To remove the gear, you must use a press or puller. But the use of a puller is difficult, because it requires the use of special thin sponges.
Before removing the helical gear, check the gear backlash, tooth integrity, contact spot.
A bearing pos. 50 is pressed onto the spindle shaft, pos. 26. If the bearing has a large backlash, it is noisy when scrolling, the grease has dried, it is preferable to replace it.
To remove the bearing, it is necessary to remove the gear wheel, circlip and dismantle the bearing. If the bearing remains in the gear housing while removing the rotor shaft assembly, the bearing is removed using a hammer and a soft tip.
How to remove pinion Bosch angle grinder
Leading gear pos. 27 is removed from the rotor shaft in the following sequence:
hold the rotor by hand and use the open-end wrench to unscrew the nut pos. 45 counterclockwise;
remove the washer pos. 59.;
pull out the helical gear, key 27.
Check visually the integrity of the gear teeth, contact spot.
If the gears are very worn (licked), there are chipped teeth, then they must be replaced. over, the replacement of gears is always done in pairs.
In low-power Bosch angle grinders, a needle bearing is used as a support bearing in the gearbox.
Do-it-yourself bosch angle grinder repair follow the strictly attached instructions. If you need to remove the needle bearing from the housing, quick thinking is indispensable. Its dismantling is carried out only at destruction.
To get the destroyed bearing race, you can use the proven method.
Video: How to Lubricate a Bosch Angle Grinder Reducer
A tap is selected with a diameter slightly larger than the inner diameter of the cage of the destroyed needle bearing. The tap is fixed in the screwdriver’s chuck and screwed carefully at low speeds into the clip. When the tap reaches the bottom of the gear housing, it will begin to raise the clip.
In addition to the spindle shaft needle bearing, Bosch angle grinders also use two more bearings mounted on the rotor shaft.
How to remove bearings from a rotor Bosch angle grinder
To remove the bearings from the rotor, pos. 803, Bosch angle grinders are recommended to use pullers.
The bearing pos.15 near the collector is easily removed, but to remove the bearing pos.14 from the impeller side, it is complicated by the fact that a number of preparatory operations are necessary.
The bearing pos.15 is closed by a soft rubber socket. A similar rubber protection pos.33 also covers the bearing pos.14.
To remove the bearing pos. 14, unscrew the nut pos. 45, remove the spur gear pos. 17 and the plastic protection pos. 33. Using a puller, you can easily remove the bearing from the rotor shaft.
And if there is no puller? A vice, two metal strips and a hammer with a soft metal extension will come to the rescue.
Dismantling Bosch angle grinder
Possible electrical problems
Faults in the electrical part of the Bosch angle grinder can be divided into simple and complex.
Simple electrical faults Bosch angle grinder
If you turned on the angle grinder and it refuses to work, start looking for a malfunction with a broken power supply wire. Most often, a wire break appears at the entrance to the angle grinder or to the fork. Avoid twisting; this will cause a short circuit in the tool.
To determine such a malfunction, it is necessary to open the handle covers of the angle grinder. In Bosch angle grinders up to 1000 W, the cover is fastened with one screw at the end. For Bosch grinders over 1000 W, the handle cover is secured with several screws.
Using the tester, ring the power circuits from the input plug, pos. 5, to the switch. With the whole circuit, proceed to check the operation of the switch. Bosch angle grinders use simple switches controlled by a switch lever.
But the electrical contacts of the switch burn up and become the cause of the failure of the angle grinder. It is impractical to restore the contacts of the plastic switch, it is necessary to replace it with a new one.
If the switch is intact, use a tester to check for the presence of a chain from each pin of the plug to each carbon brush. For whole chains, the angle grinder should turn on. If it does not rotate, then the malfunction is mechanical. Jamming of gears or destruction of bearings is possible.
If your Bosch angle grinder is gaining momentum regardless of you, it starts to get very hot, spark, you need to pay attention to the integrity of the rotor windings, stator windings.
An involuntary set of revolutions an angle grinder indicates a malfunction of the stator windings. The integrity of the windings is checked by a tester, and the short circuit between the turns is checked by a special device.
How to identify rotor failure
Rotor repair is a complex process available to foremen with straight arms.
A rotor malfunction is indicated by a drop in engine speed, the appearance of a long sparkling trace on one of the brushes. This is the first sign of a short circuit in the turns of the armature winding.
Repair of the rotor is preferably carried out in special workshops. And you can rewind yourself, if you decide to repair the Bosch angle grinder yourself.
The dark color of the rotor winding and burnt collector lamellas indicate a short circuit in the rotor circuits. The malfunction is eliminated only by replacing with a new rotor.
Bosch angle grinder repair includes stator restoration. The main sign of stator failure is a spontaneous increase in the speed of the working angle grinder, which cannot be reduced by adjustments. A burned stator winding changes color, becomes darker. The stator core also darkens from high temperature.
The stator is easier to rewind, although here you must follow certain rules and sequence.
If you removed the stator housing cover, carefully inspect the condition of the carbon brushes and rotor manifold lamellas.
The length of the carbon brushes should not be less than 8 mm. By the way, in Bosch angle grinders, carbon brushes with a “shot” are used, a device that stops the operation of the angle grinder with a minimum length of the carbon brush.
The collector lamellas must not show any deposits or wear. Carbon deposits are easily removed with cotton wool soaked in alcohol.
Stator overheating and rotor short circuit
Speed control malfunctions
In angle grinders of the Bosch series, especially of low power, speed controllers are installed. Access to the speed controller is carried out by opening the handle of the stator housing, which is held on one end screw.
The speed range of the controller can be set with a potentiometer hidden in the handle panel.
It is quite easy to remove a faulty regulator, since it is mounted only on the guide.
Repair of the speed controller angle grinder is a complex process, the implementation of which requires not only special knowledge, but tools and equipment.
If the speed controller is out of order, but there is no new one, then disconnect the supply wires and install a jumper.
Red shows the jumper installed when the speed regulator fails.
Bosch angle grinder is designed for cutting, grinding, polishing work. The operation of the tool in dust at high loads is particularly detrimental to the durability of the gearbox, namely its gears.
In addition to wear and tear of gear teeth, mechanical failures include the destruction of bearings and the housing. Repair of the Bosch angle grinder in terms of replacing failed bearings and rebuilding the housing is not difficult if there is a desire and need.
Assembly angle grinder
The assembly of the angle grinder begins with the examination of all parts, assemblies, bearings, gears.
Pre-prepare the workplace with proper and good lighting, lay tools, lubricants, wipes.
What grease to use for a Bosch angle grinder
Repair to Bosch ears will not be of high quality if you do not change the grease during its execution. For high-quality lubrication of components, Bosch angle grinder is recommended to use those lubricants that are offered by the tool manufacturer. But their high price makes us look for another way, and there is one.
Domestic lubricant manufacturers have developed special lubricants for gearboxes and grinder assemblies.
In terms of quality, they are in no way inferior to foreign lubricants, but are much cheaper. The only negative, our lubricants require a more frequent change.
The assembly of the rotor consists in mounting bearings on it, installing the impeller. Lubricated bearings are pressed onto the shaft using a wooden extension. The bearing near the collector is closed with rubber protection. This is a general rotor shaft assembly algorithm.
In some models, the Bosch angle grinder has its own characteristics.
The assembly of the gearbox begins with the installation of a rotor shaft in its housing. When the shaft is inserted into the housing, the drive gear, washer, and lock nut are put on the shaft. The gear housing with the inserted shaft must be placed in the stator housing.
When you insert the collector bearing into the socket, push the gear housing to the stator housing. Check the ease of rotation of the rotor in the bearings.
A spindle assembly with a mounted bearing and gear is mounted in the gear housing cover.
It remains to insert the cover into place and check the quality of rotation of the spindle shaft. If the shaft rotates easily by hand, it is fashionable to tighten the screws securing the rotor housing cover. The screws are pre-lubricated with sealant.
This is a general gearbox assembly algorithm. On some models, the repair of the gearbox Bosch angle grinder is slightly different.
Knowing the general scheme of Bosch grinders, you can safely take on the dismantling of a tool for lubrication;
The ability to repair a Bosch angle grinder with your own hands will extend the life of the tool, independently replace the grease, carbon brushes;
Observing the operating mode and technological maintenance of the tool, you will extend its trouble-free operation for many years.
The failure of the relay regulator is the most common cause of malfunction of automobile generators. That is why, with a check of the regulator, they usually begin monitoring the operability of the generator nodes.
In most cases, this can be done independently even without removing it.
Principle of operation of the generator voltage regulator
The generator is one of the most conservative car components. The circuit developed in the mid-60s has remained virtually unchanged up to the present day with the exception of the element base.
In general, the diagram of a car generator can be represented as follows:
It contains the following main nodes:
rectifier bridge 5 and 6;
rectifier bridge power relay-regulator 7;
relay regulator 11;
field winding brushes 10;
field winding (armature) 9;
stator winding 8;
indicator lamp 4;
rechargeable battery 3;
contact group ignition 1;
capacitor 2 (may be absent).
The general principle of operation of alternators was invented by the ingenious Tesla. Direct current through the field winding induces a magnetic field. During rotation of the excitation coil (armature), an alternating voltage is generated in the stator winding inside the stator winding.
This voltage is converted to constant by a rectifier made on the diode bridge 5 and 6. The rectified voltage charges the battery.
The higher the current in the field winding, the higher the voltage of the generator.
What function does the relay regulator perform? Essentially, it is a feedback amplifier. That is, as soon as the voltage rises, its circuit reduces the current through the field winding.
Accordingly, the voltage of the generator decreases. Then it increases the winding current, the voltage of the generator increases. And so on ad infinitum. Ultimately, the voltage of the generator stabilizes at a certain level. This whole stabilization process lasts a split second.
Relay regulators classify on the element base of execution:
transistor (in cars until the 90s);
integral (in modern cars);
microprocessor controlled (Audi, BMW).
external fixed to body elements;
built-in, combined with brushes.
In modern cars, devices that are combined with brushes are most often used. This has its drawback: when the brushes wear out, you have to change the relay regulator. Conversely, failure of the relay controller can lead to the replacement of healthy brushes.
Some experts change only the brushes located together with the relay regulator. This is not the best option for reasons of reliability, especially since the cost of relay controllers of common cars is not so great and may even be lower than the cost of replacing brushes.
Possible causes of malfunction
The main causes of malfunctions of the relay-voltage regulators of generators are considered:
inter-turn circuit of the field winding. The most dangerous cause of the malfunction. After replacing the relay controller, the generator runs for a certain time without problems. But the regulator operates at high currents and burns out again after a couple of months. In this case, it is necessary to remove the generator and take it for testing;
failure of the rectifier bridge (breakdown of diodes). Less dangerous, especially since this malfunction causes the generator to overheat, and the diodes change in the first place;
polarity reversal or reversal of battery poles. In this case, rectifier diodes also fail;
destruction of brushes;
short circuit on the control terminal of the relay regulator;
The consequences of a faulty relay controller can be significant:
increased voltage of the generator can lead to failure of the electronic components of the car, so you can not remove the battery terminals with the engine running;
internal circuit of the relay-regulator leads to overheating of the field winding and, ultimately, more expensive repairs;
the destruction of the brushes of the relay-regulator can cause the final breakdown of the generator, its jamming, breakage of the belt and more serious consequences.
The very first sign of a malfunction is the absence of a glow of the control lamp (indicator) on the dashboard when the ignition is turned on.
In age-old cars, where the battery charge pattern is similar to that shown in the first figure, it is too early for motorists to panic. Perhaps it was just a blown out bulb or a broken contact, and these cases are quite common. Car owners remove the generator, driven for testing, but in vain.
Video: How to Check Bosch Generator Voltage Regulator
The second sign. the “battery” indicator does not go out after starting the engine. This already indicates a violation of the charge process and a possible malfunction of the generator.
Another symptom of a malfunction. the brightness of the dipped-high beam depends on the engine speed. By the way, such a check is recommended to be done regularly. For this, it is necessary to stop in the dark at night in an uninhabited place opposite a building and to neutralize at the neutral by switching on the main beam. A change in brightness indicates possible problems with the charge system.
The smell of a burned winding in the cabin is also a sign of a malfunction of the generator, but you can not feel it.
How to independently check the generator relay relay with a multimeter or a lamp
In case of suspicion of a malfunction of the battery charge system, the test should begin with monitoring the voltage on the battery with the engine running. It should be between 13.3. 14.5 volts. A voltage of more than 15 volts is a sure sign of a malfunction of the relay regulator.
Further, the verification should be continued with the control wire going to the relay-regulator. Usually, one thick wire goes to the generator to the Charge and one thin wire to the output of the relay-regulator.
Video. how to check the relay-regulator without an adjustable power supply:
Sometimes there is another for controlling the tachometer. You should ring the control wire to ground. Resistance below 10 ohms will also indicate a malfunction of the relay regulator.
The following checks should be carried out on a relay-controller removed from the generator. In most cases, this can and should be done without dismantling the generator. The control relay is usually mounted on the generator with two or three bolts or screws.
After that, you need to assemble a simple scheme.
or its other variant
As a light bulb, you can take an ordinary salon lamp. Its glow will indicate the serviceability of the relay regulator. The removed relay should also check the condition of the brushes.
On the Internet you can find verification schemes for almost any type of relay-regulator of voltage generators.
In the event that the results of the test turned out to be negative, the regulator should be changed. Usually its cost does not exceed 2000 rubles for common brands.
General recommendations for repair and maintenance
At the slightest suspicion of a malfunction of the battery charge system (a change in the brightness of the lamp, blinking of the indicator lamp, difficulty starting the engine, overheating of the device and others), the generator should be checked immediately, especially in the cold season.
In order for the generator to last longer, follow the following simple rules:
do not allow excessive pollution of the generator (it has technological holes for ventilation, dirt can get there), clean its surface;
periodically check the belt tension;
watch the condition of the stator windings, this can be done through the technological holes, they should not be darkened;
poor contact of the control wire can lead to failure of the relay controller;
to prevent overcharging the battery and damage to the electronic systems of the car, periodically check the voltage on the battery with the engine running (charge voltage).
And let your generator last longer!
You should know what the resistance of high-voltage ignition wires should be when replacing them.
Not everyone knows what you need for self-diagnosis of a car.
Video. how to check the VALEO generator voltage regulator in Renault cars:
Very often, these regulators are assembled with a brush assembly, at least half of all modern generators that bring me to repair this way. And they change when the brushes wear, so no one will check or even repair it now. And the generator brushes may well take care of ten years. Earlier, even when everyone was driving in the Zhiguli, Muscovites and Volga, there were relay, and later transistor relay-regulators, they were soldered and moreover they were quite successfully repaired. And now even the car itself, in which case indicates a malfunction with a check-engine lamp, it remains only to consider the error and change it.
Well, firstly, before you climb somewhere, you need to look at the voltage on the battery with the engine turned off and compare it with the running one. With a normally charged battery, it should be close to 12.6 volts with the engine off and 13.5. 14.5 volts with the engine running. Then we leave the multimeter turned on parallel to the battery terminals and sequentially connect all the loads: the stove fan, dipped beam, high beam, radio, fog lights and everything else. We look at the multimeter, the voltage should drop very little, I have from 14.3 delivers up to 14.1 volts. According to theory, it can drop to 13.5 volts (depending on the power of the generator), but not less. Now, if it drops sharply, then we are engaged in a relay regulator.
There was a time checking the relay-regulator using a charger. The principle is this: we take a charger with adjustable load, a rechargeable battery, a 12 V lamp and wires, of course. We connect the charger to the battery and to the same wires the relay-regulator. We connect a lamp to his brushes, it is better to use small crocodiles so as not to damage the brushes. Under normal voltage, the lamp will light. We increase the voltage using a charger and at a threshold of 14.5 V the lamp should go out. When voltage decreases, the lamp should light up. If everything is so, the relay-regulator is working properly. This method is applicable to all types of relays. with or without brushes.
The easiest test method is if the battery suddenly runs out. This means charging does not go, and charging does not go in two cases. the generator or relay-regulator is not working. From here we begin to dig.
Undercharging or recharging, and hence the boiling of the battery, are primarily associated with the operation of the generator relay regulator. If you overlooked this moment, then most often it leads to battery failure. Therefore, monitor the state of the battery. how the car starts after a night’s parking, if there are any white streaks on the battery, if it is time to check the relay regulator. The relay regulator is just a voltage regulator that does not allow to exceed the threshold of 14.5 V. There are two types with the same principle of operation: one combined with brushes and mounted on a generator, the second separate on the car body. There are two ways of checking without removing from the car and checking the shot. Without taking off the car, you can notice the failure of the relay by indirect signs or undercharging or overcharging. In case of undercharging, you do not start the engine; when recharging, traces of electrolyte boiling out. But the most correct method is to use a multimeter, and the most accurate one is to measure the voltage on an unoccupied machine on the battery and compare it with the engine running. It should be 22.214.171.124 on the unknowing, but if exactly 12 you have already undercharged. With the engine running 13.2. 14.5. If more, then change the relay regulator. However, the relay-regulator is not always to blame; failure of the generator is possible. If the regulator is not in the generator, then simply change, if the brush assembly, then remove the generator.
I remember, at Niva, I had problems with the relay a couple of times and both times the diode bridge pierced. What is the specific reason I didn’t find out then, especially since the generator soon completely “died”.
In every home, sooner or later there is a need for power tools. It makes no difference, carrying out repair work is, the layout and disassembly of accessories or other needs. But a similar need arises in any apartment. Power tools can be divided into two main groups:
With a feed from a network;
Video: Disassembling a Bosch Gsr 10 8 screwdriver
Benefits of Bosch PowerPlant BAT412A Battery Powered Tools:
There are many opinions about which type of power tool is more convenient. Previously, there was a judgment that power tools with power from the mains are better, although this is not at all true. Much depends on the type of power tool, if its use requires significant electrical power, then this statement is true, in any other cases, cordless tools and their network alternatives can work with the same quality and productivity. In cordless power tools there are a number of advantages:
Maneuverability. lack of need for a network;
Ease of use. no cords, and unlimited length of use;
Pretty low price;
A fairly wide range of working conditions.
How to choose the right battery for your Bosch GSR 10.8 V-Li power tool?
The first thing you need to focus on when choosing a battery for a power tool is its class:
The second point is the capacity of the drive, the larger the capacity, the longer the tool will function:
Less than 1.5 ampere / h;
5-2.0 A / hour;
1-3.0 ampere / h;
One A / h and more.
It is necessary to look at other immediate properties from the focus of the consistency of batteries with chargers. In other words, these characteristics of the charger and battery must be compatible.
Another, at first glance, not important, although in fact a fairly relevant factor is the mass of the battery. If it is smaller, all the more wonderful, although batteries that have a large capacity, respectively, will weigh more.
I welcome you to my site! This article will discuss the lubrication of a rotary hammer. The operation of this tool requires not only a simple respect. Be sure to periodically lubricate the gearbox and cartridge.
In this case, the gearbox, of course, is already lubricated from the factory. But over time, the grease leaks somewhere, dries somewhere. In addition, it is intended only to reduce friction, and not to eliminate it. Therefore, one way or another, and the parts still rub against each other, due to which fine metal dust gradually forms, which remains in the lubricant.
As a result of such mixing of metal and lubricant, the properties of the latter are gradually lost and the wear of parts is accelerated.
Inexpensive Chinese rotary hammers can be poorly lubricated at the factory. Experienced service center masters recommend after disassembling even a new such device, disassemble and grease it immediately
The cartridge from the factory is dry. Here, in fact, it is not the cartridge itself that is completely missed, but only its place that is in contact with the drill, since it is in it that strong friction occurs, without reducing which the cartridge itself and the drill stem can be damaged.
So, below we will consider how and how to lubricate these elements. An SDS puncher with a horizontal engine arrangement will be considered, since it is in the vast majority of cases that home masters use it, and the article is mainly written for them.
How to lubricate a hammer drill
Different types of greases are used to lubricate the gearbox and drill chuck.
It uses a special lubricant, which should be called. gear. It can be like under the brands under which the perfs themselves are produced. Makita, Bosch, AEG, etc.
But it can be released by a company that deals with this particular type of product, for example, Ravenol, Shell, Xado, etc.
Some use for this purpose simple lithol or salidol. But compared to special lubricating products, they dry out faster and do not eliminate friction as much as necessary.
Everything is exactly the same here. Special lubricants for this purpose are called. for the Boers. And also usually produced by the same companies that do the punchers.
Video: Bosch Punch Drill Lubricant
For lack of special grease, you can use graphite. But it does not so well remove heat from the shank, and this is important, since sometimes with prolonged use the shank can be flattened, which is why it is then difficult to remove it.
Lubricate the gearbox
You will need to disassemble the tool body. Follow the steps:
Disassemble the cartridge. To do this, first remove the rubber ring. Then pry off with a screwdriver and remove the snap ring. Next, the outer casing of the cartridge is carefully removed, and then the clamping ring, ball and spring are removed.
Now disconnect the mode switch. This is done differently depending on the model. At the end of the article, I gave a number of links to videos that describe how it is shot on a particular model. If among them is not your unit, then you can look at any of these to understand the principle. And then, I think, it will not be difficult for you to disconnect it from yourself.
Remove the collector from the brushes. To do this, unscrew the back cover of the case and remove the brushes.
Unscrew the self-tapping screws that longitudinally tighten the case, and disconnect it.
Remove gearbox with motor armature.
Now thoroughly flush the gearbox itself, as well as the inside of its housing. Washing can be carried out, for example, with gasoline.
After that, first the most critical parts are smeared. And then the entire gearbox is completely enveloped in grease.
Well, it remains to collect everything in reverse order.
Lubricate the chuck and drill shank
This operation is very simple, so its description will be quite short.
Just take the lubricant and add it directly to the cartridge. Another option involves applying it to the shank and then installing it in the socket of the cartridge. But no one forbids combining these two methods for reliability.
Care must be taken to ensure that grease is constantly present and add new as needed. If this procedure is neglected, the liner will overheat, which will lead to its separation from the rest of the drill or to flattening. Therefore, do not be lazy and add.
That’s all you need to know by cartridge and liner.
As promised, I enclose at the end of the video link with the switch disconnected:
This is all the information that I have on the lubrication of the punch. I hope it was clear and accessible. I say goodbye to this. until we meet again!
Do not blindly trust tips on car forums and sites. It is better to start the search from the official websites of manufacturers. It often happens that there you can find whole sections or useful tools that help protect the buyer of the brand from counterfeiting.
How to distinguish genuine BOSCH parts from fake parts: a validation tool
So, BOSCH has created a separate authentication tool for its products. KeySecure System. Using the system, you can check BOSCH electric fuel pumps, lambda probes, air flow sensors, starters and alternators, elements of the fuel system for diesel engines:
KeySecure labels have been glued to BOSCH products since 2007. At first it was a simple 15-digit code with a hologram. In 2009, a scanned MAPP code was added to it.
In 2012, the last 6 characters of the 18-digit code began to be duplicated on the hologram.
To verify the original origin of the purchased part using KeySecure, you need to install the application for Android and iOS. Neoreader.
Then you need to point the phone’s camera to the MAPP code of the sticker. the system itself will scan the code and display the result of the check: textual and with the help of multi-colored indicators.
Green the indicator will indicate the original origin of the part.
Yellow indicator means a unique code, but often entered earlier. This may be a sign of a fake, the manufacturer recommends in such cases contact the seller and replace the part.
Red the code means that the MAPP code is corrupted (the system cannot recognize the code), or this code does not exist.
Another way to verify the authenticity of the valve, nozzle, fuel pump and other spare parts for diesel fuel equipment is by using the MAPP code on the label. it is to enter it manually on the site www.protect.bosch.com.
Video: How to Check Bosch for Originality
look at the inscription
As a rule, counterfeiters cheat in the production of spare parts. Your task. identify fake.
Look at the inscription: in the case of BOSCH, it should be of red color. The black color of the inscription is used only for the logo.
Please note the picture: in genuine BOSCH lettering the corners of the letters S and C are “cut off” at a 45-degree angle. In the case of a fake. they remain flat.
BOSCH should bear the brand name. rivet logo.
look at the packaging
Packaging is very important. If the bushes still make a box, then they will regret the money for a normal plastic bag in which the parts are packed.
Remember that BOSCH parts packages are made by the manufacturer. thick plastic uniform color (transparent, blue or green, depending on the part).
Do not forget check serial number details on the box and details! Any defects, abrasions, a weak imprint of the serial number for spare parts should alert you.
look at the detail
When you examine the item, everything inscriptions and logos should also be clear, well readable. Notches, cracks, rough edges (unless otherwise provided by the design of the product) should not be either.
And also original spare parts are placed on the part, which they are intended to be, like merged. Mismatches in geometry, poor thread quality, dubious clearances. Signs of fake.
see the manufacturer’s catalog
Another secret. if you are well versed in the products of a company, it’s quite difficult to deceive you.
For example, BOSCH never produced valve seals. therefore, if you come across such a part under the brand name "Bosch", this is a fake. So before choosing a spare part don’t be too lazy to look at the catalog manufacturer.
Choose well-known, long-working companies in the market that have managed to gain the trust of users, with a select catalog, corporate brand and relevant documents.
Please note that the price of products of well-known world brands is below the average figures for the market. also a sign of fake.
About how to distinguish the original Delphi valve from a fake, we wrote here.
You can find fuel pumps, fuel injection pumps for diesel engines in the catalog
Ltd "Diesel craft" DIESEL FUEL EQUIPMENT Registration number in the Commercial Register 392854