The trimmer is a necessary and useful tool for a summer cottage and a private house. Many own and actively use it, but not everyone knows how to replace a fishing line in a trimmer, especially at first.

In this manual, we will step by step analyze the entire replacement process. Looking ahead, there are two ways to line the trimmer spool with fishing line. There is no fundamental difference. the difference is that in the first case there will be one fishing line, folded in half, and in the second there will be two lines of such lines.

Content:

Replacement Preparation

Disassemble the trimmer spool

For clarity, the mowing head (spool) was removed from the lawn mowers. To replace the fishing line, you do not need to remove it, everything is done locally. It does not take much time.

We disassemble the trimmer spool. it rests on the latches-latches. Remove the cover by pressing on the latches. If you do not have enough effort with your hands, then use a screwdriver.

The spool consists of the following:

• Spring housing
• Locking lid
• Button Coil

The principle of action is as follows. By pressing the button, the coil presses on the spring and exits the locking grooves in the spool cover. While holding the coil in this state, you can twist, thereby adjusting the length of the fishing line. When you release the button, the housing spring returns the coil to its original fixed state.

Disassembled Trimer Spool

Below on the coil there are several holes for different diameters of the lines. Different trimmer manufacturers may vary. In some cases (as here) they are signed, in others not.

These holes are needed to fix the fishing line when replacing it. After winding on a woman’s fishing line, the ends of the latter are inserted into them. This is necessary so that the scaffold does not unwind at the time of installation of the coil in the trimmer housing. In other words, it facilitates the replacement of fishing line.

Fishing Line Holes

There are models without specifying the diameter of the consumable. Then, in order to find out what the maximum diameter of the scaffold can be used, it is tried on through the holes for removing the fishing line from the body of the trimmer spool (see the figure below).

Fitting on fishing line outlets

The reel has two sections for fishing line, separated by a partition. They may not be. They are needed only to distinguish and facilitate winding of the consumable.

Two sections for fishing line

Initially determined with the required length of the loess. The latter is wound in one of the sections of the coil so that it does not go beyond its limits. In this case, 3 mm was wound, the length was about 2 meters. Those. for two sections you will need a 4 meter cut. this is for the 1st method. For the second method, you need two segments of 2 meters.

Determination of the required length of fishing line

Now you need to figure out which side you need to wind it. To do this, many manufacturers of trim tabs on the coils apply special designations such as in the figure below.

Special designation on the reel

If such designations were not found, then you need to pay attention to the body of the spool. There is without fail an arrow that indicates the movement of the mowing head. The line is wound in the opposite direction.

Designation on the spool housing

First way

Bent in half fishing line

The prepared segment (in this case 4 meters) is bent approximately in half. one segment should be 15-20 cm longer and inserted into a special slot located on the dividing wall.

The fishing line is inserted into the slot

In a previously defined direction, the fishing line is wound. This is done in a tight fit, the line is neatly distributed. In this case, you need to wind a segment that is longer in the section that is closer to the button.

There are designs in which the division of the coil into two sections is not provided. This does not change anything, the fishing line is wound in a similar way. It is only necessary to ensure that the segments do not overlap among themselves.

The first segment that ends at the bottom of the coil, i.e. one that is closer to the fixing holes.

This tip is placed in the corresponding diameter hole. The fishing line is firmly fixed.

The fishing line is firmly fixed

A long section is wound another half turn. There it is similarly fixed. In this case, the segment crosses another section of the coil.

A long section is wound another half turn

The fixed ends of the wound fishing line are inserted into the holes of the trimmer spool housing.

The fixed ends of the wound fishing line are inserted into the holes of the trimmer spool housing

The coil is attached to the body. The ends of the fishing line are pulled with force so that the fishing line previously fixed in the holes of the reel springs out. This is easily determined by the characteristic sound (click).

The ends of the fishing line pull

The coil with the button is latched into the body of the trimmer spool.

The coil with the button snaps into the body of the trimmer spool

Replacing the fishing line was successful. In this case, you need to install it back on the trimmer and you can start mowing the grass.

It should be repeated, you do not need to remove the spool from the trimmer. this was done to make the process of replacing the fishing line easier. You can disassemble the spool in place, wrap it on a reel and put it back.

Successfully replacing fishing line

The tips so that they do not hit the trimmer cover can and should be cut.

Method 2. two segments

Two wound lengths of fishing line

Method number 2 fundamentally no different from method number 1. The only difference is the two wound lengths of fishing line, instead of one.

The end of each segment is bent

The end of each segment is bent.

Two special locking sockets

There are two special locking sockets on the coil (see figure above).

Start winding the fishing line

They hook onto it with a hook formed earlier on the fishing line, and begin to wind the fishing line.

Winding is carried out in a special order.

The winding should be carried out in the following order: first the bottom line, i.e. the one that is closer to the fixing holes at the bottom of the coil, and only then the upper one, i.e. the one that will overlap the bottom section.

The bottom line is wound

The tips are made into the holes in the body of the trimmer spool. They are pulled up to a click, which indicates that the line has come out of the clips.

The tips are threaded into the holes of the trimmer spool housing

The coil is fastened into the housing. The fishing line in the spool is replaced.

The fishing line in the spool is replaced

VIDEO: How to wind a fishing line on a mowing head of a trimmer or lawn mowers

How to wind a line onto a mowing head of a trimmer or lawn mowing machine

Replacing the fishing line in the trimmer: 2 easy ways

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Guaranteed production of a factory trimmer refill will inevitably require replacing the fishing line. Having a very rough idea of ​​how to fill the fishing line into the reel of the trimmer yourself, beginners are reluctant to take up this matter. However, with some skills, mastering this simple science does not present any difficulties, and the similar instruction presented below will facilitate this process as much as possible.

Video: How to Change a Fishing Line In a Stihl Electric Trimmer

Preliminary preparation

First of all, for winding fishing line it is required to remove the reel (bobbin, spool) from the trimmer. specific actions will depend on the complexity of the configuration and the type of product itself:

• Small electric trimmers with a working arrangement of the engine and the coil in the lower part, as a rule, have side keys on both sides of the bobbin. By pressing them simultaneously, the upper part of the reel, together with the internal contents for winding the fishing line, is disconnected, while the lower one remains on the trimmer. It is advisable to disassemble the bobbin on an even smooth place so that the spring included in the design does not pop out and is not lost;
• electric and gasoline trimmers with a curved bar without the possibility of installing a knife, as a rule, have coils with a special wing: in such designs, you should hold the spool in one position with one hand and rotate the locking reel on the wing nut with the other counterclockwise. After disconnecting the nut, the entire reel is removed.
• electric and petrol trimmers with the possibility of installing the knife on a straight bar (for example, Stihl trimmers) have a hole under the bobbin. For the motion of the rod to be stationary, a screwdriver or other suitable object is inserted into this hole and with a slow rotation, such a mutual arrangement is achieved when the screwdriver enters the hole and the bobbin is fixed. After that, the coil body scrolls clockwise (with the left thread) and is removed from the trimmer.

For the second and third cases, the coils, depending on the design, are disassembled in various ways. In bobbins with a lamb, a lamb is twisted, in coils with latches, latches-clamps are pressed and one part of the coil is released from the other. If the halves of the spool are threaded, it is enough to turn them by hand in opposite directions until completely unscrewed.

We carry out winding fishing line

Slowly completed disassembling the spool of the spool without losing its spare parts allows you to go to the main task. winding the fishing line into the reel. Technological features of the design of the spool and the number of working antennae determine the sequence of actions.

Coil with one working antenna

The simplest option and a simple sequence of actions:

1. The dimensions of the bobbin and the length of the original factory winding determine the recommended fishing line length for winding. 2. 5 m.
2. One end of the fishing line is inserted into the fixing technological hole located inside the spool.
3. The fishing line is wound on the drum in the reverse direction of rotation of the spool in the trimmer product direction. as a rule, on the inner side of the bobbin an arrow indicates which side the winding is carried out.
4. A small area of ​​fishing line is left free to bring it out. it is fixed in a specialized groove on the inside of the reel, designed to hold the winding when assembling the spool in working condition.
5. The left end of the line is passed through the hole on the outside of the bobbin.
6. The bobbin halves are assembled and put on the trimmer bar.

Coil with two working antennae

In this type of spools, you should determine the number of grooves for winding fishing line lying on the inside of the reel:

• one groove. both antennae are wound together along one groove;
• two grooves. each antennae is wound on an individual groove.

In both cases, a 2-3-meter-long fishing line is taken. In single-groove reels, the fishing line is pulled into the through hole, its ends (antennae) are folded together and aligned, after which they are wound in the opposite direction of rotation of the bobbin on the side of the bar. the correct direction of winding is usually indicated inside the arrow. In the presence of fixing grooves, the ends of the fishing line are threaded into them or held by the fingers of their free hands, threaded into the through hole of the outer half of the bobbin, the spool is closed and attached to the bar of the trimmer.

The difference between winding fishing line in two-groove reels is that initially a piece of fishing line 2-5 m long is folded in half (to determine the middle bend), and the bend loop is inserted into a special groove between the grooves. Both antennae of the fishing line are wound each in its own groove, the fixation of the antennae and the reel assembly is similar to the one-groove variant discussed above.

The first implementation of this procedure may seem long and rather laborious, but with time and experience this task will be solved much faster and easier.

The video below will clearly show how to put the fishing line into the coil of the trimmer and wrap it correctly. this operation is not complicated and with some patience will surely succeed:

Automatic reeling of fishing line

There is a variety of coils in which the automatic mechanism coils on its own. from the user it is enough just to properly fill the line. The fishing line is passed through the hole on the inside of the case, its antennae without winding is passed through the hole on the external case, the bobbin is assembled, and when the winding button is rotated, the line inside is wound up independently. In such a spool, it is impossible to make the winding incorrectly: the mechanism itself will determine the correct direction, since it can only turn in one direction.

The trimmer is a convenient and easy-to-use tool for mowing grass and pruning small bushes and trees. As a cutting element, it often uses fishing line (string, cord), because it costs less than blade knives and is safer to use. With intensive use of the tool over time, you will need to change the line on the trimmer. This process is similar on mowers from different manufacturers, be it Husqvarna or Huter, with possible minor differences.

What is needed to replace the cord

When the trimmer is used regularly for grass mowing, the discs become dull, but they can be sharpened and continued to be used. The fishing line in the reel tends to end, so there is a need to refuel a new one, for which you need to determine the type of head and prepare a cord of the required thickness and length.

So, the mowing head is a cylindrical body in which a bobbin with fishing line is placed. Such a detail is present both on trimmers and on gasoline braids of any brands, be it Bosch, Makita, Stihl or another brand. The heads are of three types, depending on the method of refueling and feeding the fishing line.

1. The principle of operation of the heads auto group consists in the fact that they independently feed the fishing line when the mower reduces the engine speed. Such designs are convenient when working on large areas, but have the disadvantage of high cord consumption.
2. Heads semi-automatic group easy to operate. automatic line feeding is performed at maximum engine speeds. To release the cord lock, gently tap the tool on the ground, after which the unlocked thread extends from the spool. Cutting to the required length is carried out with a knife mounted on a protective casing.
3. Trimmers with manual feed the cord must first be turned off, and then pull out the fishing line yourself.

On a note! The most convenient and best priced are semi-automatic cord reels.

Coils for electric and gasoline braids can be with one or two antennae fishing line. The former are used to trim low grass overgrowth, and the latter are used to trim tall grass and small bushes.

Preparation for replacing fishing line

Before replacing the fishing line, you need to pull out and then disassemble the head. Usually it includes a casing, a spring (on some models), a bobbin with fishing line, a cover. It is necessary to disconnect the electric trimmer from the network (or muffle the gasoline), and then proceed to remove the coil. It can be fixed in two different ways: in the first case, it is necessary to completely disassemble the head, and in the second. just remove it from the gearbox shaft on which it is mounted.

• find the latches on both sides, press and remove the cover to open the internal device of the head;

• there is a bobbin under the cover, it must be carefully removed from the case (sometimes a spring hides under it, it should also be carefully removed to the side so as not to lose);

• after removing the spool, a fixing bolt (or screw) becomes visible in the center of the housing, which must be unscrewed in the opposite direction to the clockwise movement;
• after removing the fasteners, hold the housing by swinging movements to remove the coil from the gearbox shaft.

Second way involves the following actions. The coil head is mounted on the gearbox shaft. To disconnect it, it is necessary to lock this shaft. Usually in braids, for example, of the Champion or Stihl brand, a hole is made for this, into which a nail, a rod or a screwdriver is inserted. After fixing the shaft in a fixed position, holding the housing, it is necessary to start turning the head clockwise, since the thread on the shaft is usually applied left.

Now that the head is removed and disassembled, it is necessary to determine how thick the cord should be. You can find out the suitable diameter for your trimmer by looking in the user manual or on the bobbin itself, usually similar information is indicated on it. Another way is to insert the thread into the hole from which it is fed. If the scrum goes without difficulty, it can be used for work.

On a note! To understand how much fishing line to reel for the reel, you need to wind it on a bobbin so that the height of the reel is not greater than the diameter of the sides. If the cord protrudes beyond the edges, the coil cannot be hidden in the casing.

Line winding algorithm

The order of winding the fishing line depends on the type of reel. with one or two antennae, as well as with automatic charging of the cord.

To the coil with one antennae

It is very easy to wind a fishing line onto a reel with one antennae. In such designs, depending on the brand of trimmer, two to five meters of cord is placed. The edge of the fishing line in the spool must be tucked into a special hole or groove, after which the string is wound in the direction opposite to the rotation of the coil during operation.

Advice! To understand which way to wind the thread, you should look at the bobbin case. usually marks are made on it that indicate the direction of movement of the bobbin during operation.

After the fishing line is wound, you need to leave a small piece (15-30 cm), thread it into the exit hole of the spool and reassemble the head.

To the coil with two antennae

In spools of this type, you need to inspect the inside of the coil and determine the number of grooves for winding the cord provided in it.

Important! If there is one chute in the coil, then both antennae must be wound along a common groove, if two, then on separate tracks.

For winding, you need to take a piece of fishing line with a length of two to three meters. For single groove spools it is necessary to fill the line into the through hole, align the mustache, align and wind it on the reel in the direction opposite to its rotation during operation. If locking grooves are provided, they need to thread the ends of the cord, then pull them into the outlet, then close the coil and put it back on its place.

For two-groove spools the difference is that the length of the string should be folded in half. Next, you need to charge the middle of the bend into the groove between the grooves, then wrap each of the pieces of fishing line along its path, fix the antennae and assemble the reel as well as the bobbin with one track.

On trimmer head with automatic refueling

For heads with automatic refueling, just enough start and pinch the edges of the line, and the tool will carry out further winding on its own when turned on. It is impossible to make a mistake here, because the coil itself recognizes how the antennae should be located.

On a note! The advantages of trimmers with such a head include the convenience of laying the cord, and the disadvantages are the high cost and complicated repair.

Fishing line. varieties and the possibility of replacing with other material

The cord for the trimmer can be of different diameters (from 1.2 to 4 mm), and you need to choose it depending on what kind of vegetation you want to mow. the thicker the fishing line, the more rough grass it can handle. Experienced users recommend putting a fishing line with a thickness of 2 mm, which is universal.

Fishing line shape can be round (for juicy grass) or with sharp edges in the form of a square or asterisk (for mowing dry grass). The second type is less durable and wears out faster than a round cord.

One of the popular questions regarding the operation of trimmers is whether it is possible to replace the special cord for mowers with other materials, for example, metal or steel cables and strings, wire, etc. You need to know that the installation of such items not recommended, because with them the trimmer turns into a dangerous technique. During the mowing, pieces of wire or metal will constantly break off and fly apart in different directions, risking injury to the worker. And if you accidentally touch their limbs during work, a serious injury is guaranteed.

For trimmers who are interested in using fishing line, we answer. this is allowed, but it will tear and wear much faster, which means that it will require frequent replacement.

Advice! Fishing line is well suited for harvesting grass near a fence or wire mesh. instead of spending an expensive trimmer cord, you can charge large-caliber gear (2-3 mm), which is much cheaper.

Replacing fishing line on the disc

Depending on the type of vegetation covering the garden (lawn) and requiring removal, the fishing line changes to disk. This is necessary, since the cord is used only for grass of small height, and if you need to mow tall growth, shoots of trees or shrubs, instead of a string it is better to use metal or plastic knife-disks. Installing them correctly is very simple, the detailed process is usually described in the user manual and is similar for trimmers of different brands, be it Al-Co, Oleo-Mac, Patriot or another brand of equipment. To change fishing line to knives, you must:

• lock the shaft and remove the coil by turning it clockwise;
• put the knife on the sleeve;
• install the locking cover and in a counterclockwise direction tighten the nut, and then tighten it with a wrench.

You can read in detail how to change the reel with fishing line to disk in the device’s instruction manual.

Solving possible fishing line problems

Most of the problems associated with fishing line, similar for different trimmers and are solved in a similar way.

String break

Regular line breaks are caused by:

• the presence in the mowing grass of solid objects: branches, stones, etc., contact with which breaks the string;
• mowing the grass is close to the fence, and if it is mesh, the fishing line breaks even faster;
• low-quality cord. a replacement for a new reliable consumable is necessary;
• wear of the outlet openings in the mowing head, as a result of which the fishing line breaks off from friction against the sharp edges of the bushings. replacement of the part with a new one is required.

High consumption of fishing line

Typically, the fishing line ends very quickly if you constantly tap the semi-automatic reel on the ground or press it firmly to the surface. In this case, the head unlocks, the cord lengthens, and the knife cuts it. The second option is the fast consumption of fishing line. a trimmer with an automatic reel is not used correctly. If the mower regularly reduces the engine speed, the string is constantly lengthened and cut, and as a result is quickly consumed.

The string does not hold

If the coil is semi-automatic type the spring is weakening, the fishing line does not hold and unwinds during operation. The cord extends, is cut with a knife, as a result, the owner of the equipment notices that the thread ends quickly.

Advice! To test the tool, you need to remove the protective cover and start the engine. if the fishing line extends, this means that the spring must be replaced with a new one.

Fishing line crashes

If the string flies when mowing, this is another evidence that the spring in the bobbin is weakened or completely lost when the head was not carefully dismantled. As a result, the cord does not hold and jumps out during rotation.

The string does not extend

In automatic reels and semiautomatic machines, the cord is fed without stopping the trimmer. If this does not happen, then:

• the fishing line in the head is not wound correctly, so the reel does not spin;
• the winding of the fishing line is uneven, so the cord gets stuck between the turns and does not come out. to prevent this from happening, you need to wind the thread carefully, avoiding distortions, turn to the turn;
• the ends of the cord coming out of the holes are very short, there is not enough centrifugal force to remove them, so the fishing line is not fed. before turning on the trimmer it is important to adjust the length of the thread and lengthen it a little if necessary;
• the cord stuck together.

The coil does not spin

The reasons why the reel does not spin are similar to the lack of line feed. This is an incorrect or uneven winding of the string, its sticking, as well as the short ends of the cord coming out of the holes.

Fishing line sticks together

If the fishing line sticks together during operation, the main reason is the installation of a low-quality cord. During operation, the coil heats up, and a poor-quality string melts and sticks together. The second reason is the collision of the cord with solid objects. In this case, its sharp braking occurs, the thread is pulled into the head and sticks.

Advice! To avoid problems, you can apply mineral oil to the surface of the fishing line or, after winding on the head, spray it with silicone. A more competent solution will be the acquisition of a good quality head, which will forget about such problems.

So, replacing the fishing line on the trimmer is not difficult if you know how to disassemble the coil and wind the cord. This process is similar for technology of different brands. A detailed description can be found in the instruction manual of the tool or watch the video.

Reliable grass trimmers for 2019

Huter GET-400 trimmer on Yandex Market

Trimmer STAVR TE-1700R on Yandex Market

Makita UR3502 trimmer on Yandex Market

Husqvarna 128R trimmer on Yandex Market

GARDENA SmallCut 300/23 trimmer on Yandex Market

Gasoline snow blowers: types, device, advantages and disadvantages

Snow removal in a small area does not require powerful equipment.

A small area means:

• parking area in front of the garage;
• a path from the house to the gate or garage;
• house territory;
• sidewalk near the house.

Such cleaning is easy to carry out with both a conventional and a mechanical shovel. But such devices are suitable only for shallow snow due to the small size of the bucket.

To clean a thick layer of snow in a rather large area, a shovel is indispensable. more serious equipment will be required.

For such work, it is important to purchase gasoline snow blowers. They are used for cleaning large areas, such as:

The device and principle of operation of the carburetor of the snowplow

At first glance, it may seem that the carburetor has a rather complicated design, however, in fact, there is nothing complicated in the device of this unit. The carburetors of most snowplows consist of the following components:

• Cameras with a float;
• A float equipped with a locking needle valve;
• Mixing chamber;
• Atomizer and diffuser;
• Air and fuel valves with jets;
• Throttle valves.

The float connected to the needle valve is responsible for maintaining the necessary amount of fuel in the assembly. As the fuel level decreases, the float lowers, thereby opening the needle valve. At the same time, the required portion of gasoline enters the fuel chamber. As the amount of fuel in the chamber increases, the float rises and closes the needle valve.

From the float chamber, gasoline, by means of a spray tube, enters the mixing chamber, where it is mixed with air coming from the inlet pipe. The level of fuel available in the float chamber is always slightly lower than the level at which the outlet is located. Due to this, with the engine turned off, gasoline does not leave the float chamber even if the snow blower is on a slope.

Snowblower carb adjustment. when is intervention required?

Often during active operation of the snow blower, malfunctions occur, which carburetor adjustment will help to eliminate. The fact that it is time to perform this procedure is evidenced by a number of signs:

• The appearance of unexpected stops in the engine when it starts;
• The motor begins to sob under load;
• The amount of exhaust emissions has increased dramatically.

All these signs indicate a malfunction of the standard carburetor snow blower. Without timely adjustment, the unit will begin to consume too much fuel, and its internal elements will succumb to a significant load, which will lead to even more serious breakdowns.

How to adjust a carburetor on a snow blower. the procedure in detail

Before adjusting the carburetor of the snow blower, it is necessary to start and warm up the motor of the unit. The further operation algorithm is as follows:

1. First of all, remove the crankcase ventilation tube and check for vacuum;
2. Find the screws for adjusting the composition of the mixture and begin to screw them in turn until you hear the unstable and tough operation of the motor;
3. During maximum engine operation, stop tightening the screws. Otherwise, the snow blower motor will stall;
4. Finally, unscrew the screws one full turn back. During this, the unit motor will start to run smoothly and without strange sounds.

After adjusting the carburetor, you need to turn off the engine of the snow blower. After this, the engine must be started again and continue to work.

Types of Gasoline Snow Blowers

All gasoline snow blowers are distinguished by the type of chassis and the convenience of working with them. There are two types of them:

A comparison of the work of snow blowers of gasoline self-propelled and non-self-propelled, see the video:

In addition, snow blowers are divided by the number of stages of the snow removal system:

• single-stage (auger);
• two-stage (screw and rotor).

Also, gasoline snow removal units are divided by:

• type of engine;
• motor power;
• the presence of headlights;
• bucket width and height;
• mass;
• cost.

Not all units are equipped with additional equipment, therefore it is called optional. Such equipment facilitates the use of a snow blower.

The most common headlamp, which happens to be equipped with even very budget models.

The headlight bulb works from a generator connected to the engine and ensures the creation of an ignition spark, so the headlight does not light when the engine is off.

The headlamp facilitates snow removal in the evening and at night, as well as in conditions of poor visibility.

Approximately half of the models install a two-stage snow removal system, which consists of 2 parts:

So that the auger can give the snow the necessary acceleration, it is necessary to greatly increase the speed of its rotation. This negatively affects the screw resource and is especially dangerous if there is a chance that the screw will collide with a hard surface, including ice.

The second stage allows reducing the screw rotation speed by 2–4 times, as well as using a screw-shaped screw with better performance. After all, the screw’s task is to feed snow to the rotor, and already the rotor will give the snow to be removed the necessary acceleration.

A snow blower auger with a two-stage snow removal (cleaning) system is not afraid of contact not only with ice, but even with asphalt or concrete.

The third type of additional equipment, which is installed only on electric blowers, is an electric starter. It is performed in two versions. powered by:

• battery;
• AC power.

Battery electric starter is much more expensive, but it allows you to comfortably start a snow blower even away from the wall outlet or in the absence of electricity, therefore it is more universal.

The main and additional parameters of the snow blower

When choosing a snow blower, one has to consider their various parameters and characteristics. Indeed, despite the fact that the common task for these devices is the same. snow removal. the requirements of each customer are individual.

All gasoline snow blowers are divided according to several basic parameters.

Horsepower (hp):

• low-power (up to 4 hp);
• average power (up to 7 hp);
• high power (over 7 hp);

Weight in kilograms (kg):

• lungs (up to 40 kg);
• medium (up to 90 kg);
• heavy (over 90 kg);

Cost in rubles:

• inexpensive (up to 30 thousand rubles);
• medium (up to 60 thousand rubles);
• expensive (over 90 thousand rubles).

Weight is a very important parameter when choosing a snow blower, especially when it comes to non-self-propelled gasoline models. After all, a heavy snow thrower is difficult to independently roll into a barn or hangar, which means that a teenager or a woman will not be able to work with it.

The financial opportunities also differ for everyone, so when choosing you will have to pay attention to devices from the corresponding price range.

Unfortunately, the most inexpensive snow blowers do not differ in high engine power and the presence of a self-propelled propulsion device.

Additional parameters that may affect the choice of a snow blower and its ease of use include:

• throwing distance, snow in meters;
• performance (this parameter depends on many factors);
• noise level;
• fuel consumption, liters per hour.

Choosing a gasoline snow blower, focus not only on the basic, but also on additional parameters. Everyone has different requirements and, at times, the specific requirements are best met by an inexpensive snow blower. And it happens that a model with the necessary characteristics is in a different price range.

The snow throwing distance describes how far the machine will tilt the snow. This distance varies from 4 to 12-15 meters and depends not only on power, but also on the presence of a second-stage rotor. In addition, the snow condition also affects the tilt range.

We made our own rating, which included the best (in our opinion) snow blowers of each type.

In addition to listing the models, we will indicate their advantages over other similar units, as well as disadvantages (if any).

AL-KO SnowLine 55E is a very expensive device for its price category, the main advantages of which are:

• the presence of an electric starter,
• powerful motor.

Thanks to the somewhat redundant power for non-self-propelled aggregates, it easily copes not only with fresh, but also with packed snow. Nevertheless, this is a non-self-propelled machine, so it is less convenient to use than most self-propelled snow blowers. On the official website, the price of the device is 35 thousand rubles.

CHAMPION ST655BS. This unit is in second place. It is also equipped with an electric starter, but the motor is inferior to the leader in power, in addition, many users note the low reliability of the screw. On the official website, the cost of a snow blower is 33 thousand rubles.

Interskol SMB-550 is one of the cheapest, but reliable and productive snow removal machines.

Engine power is enough to clean the area around the house, and a toothed steel auger easily crumbles even packed and dense snow. The screw rotor mechanism casts snow for 5–12 meters, and the deep tread of the wheels (lugs) ensures reliable grip on the road surface.

The cost of such a snow blower is 36 thousand rubles, as stated on the official website of Interskol.

CHAMPION ST1170BS is the most powerful wheeled snow blower in the Champion range, and is also equipped with an electric starter. At the same time, the device is relatively inexpensive (69 thousand rubles), because most units of this power are much more expensive.

The snow blower easily copes with deep, packed and wet snow, throwing it back 10 meters or more. With good care, it is very reliable. You will find more detailed information on the manufacturer’s website at this link.

HUSQVARNA ST 230P is a very expensive, comfortable and not too powerful snow blower equipped with an electric starter. Its advantage is the ability to lock one of the wheels for better turning.

The technical characteristics and real capabilities are seriously inferior to the previous snow blower, but many are willing to pay 140 thousand rubles for a wheel drive with a differential and a well-known brand. information about this model of the snow thrower can be found here.

PATRIOT PRO 1150 ED is an inexpensive and at the same time quite powerful and reliable unit, equipped with the functions inherent in snow plows of an more expensive segment, that is:

• starting from an electric starter,
• heated handles.

Power in 11 liters. with. enough to clean even tightly packed snow, and a bright headlight allows you to work at night. The cost of this device is 86 thousand rubles, and a more detailed description is on the manufacturer’s website.

AL-KO SnowLine 760TE. this snow blower is in second place due to the standard equipment for its price, a slightly more powerful motor and the reputation of the manufacturer. However, he has no serious advantages over the leader, but he costs much more. On the official website of the manufacturer, where you can find its detailed specifications, its price is 129 thousand rubles.

HUSQVARNA ST 327PT. the snow blower is in third place because of its price. Its cost is 210 thousand rubles, despite the fact that the only advantage is a hydrostatic transmission.

The mover of this type is more reliable to friction, but in case of breakdown the cost of repair will be 3-5 times higher. According to its capabilities, it is comparable with the leaders of the rating. detailed specifications of this snow thrower can be found on the manufacturer’s website at.

There were doubts whether to take a gas blower? Watch the video:

Gasoline snow blower is a universal unit that covers almost all snow removal options in any territory. Now you will be less confused in terms and will be able to choose exactly the snow removal unit that is suitable specifically for your tasks.

Read more about the various parameters of gasoline snow blowers and how to choose them to choose, read here.

Reference!

Adjusting the carburetor of a Stihl chainsaw may be necessary when changing the quality of fuel, the altitude at which the Stihl chainsaw is used (vacuum), as well as when changing atmospheric pressure, temperature and humidity. Tuning the carburetor of the chainsaw allows you to achieve excellent performance chainsaws with deteriorating external operating conditions. Also, adjusting the carburetor of the chainsaw helps prevent oil starvation and engine breakdown due to insufficient lubrication entering the cylinder with a lean fuel mixture.

Tip: To check the tightness of the engine, it is very good to use a special device, i.e. special pump with pressure gauge. First you need to remove the carburetor on the chainsaw, and install a sealed plate plug with a flange on the inlet window of the cylinder to connect the hose to the pump. The spark plug for tightness can also be put on the sealant. You must also remove the muffler, and install a sealed plate with a rubber gasket on the exhaust port of the cylinder. Then you need to put the piston at top dead center and connect the hose from the pump to the flange. Next, you need to pump air into the engine up to 0.9 atm. and look at the gauge needle. if it stands still, then the piston of the engine is tight. Then we release air, switch the device (pump) and start pumping air out of the cylinder, creating a vacuum in the engine with a pressure gauge reading of 0.5 atm. We look at the pressure gauge needle. if it stands still, then through the gaskets or other seals in the engine there is no air leak (which worsens the operation of the chainsaw and does not allow the carburetor to be correctly adjusted for the chainsaw). Thus, we check the engine for air leakage and compression.

Adjusting the carburetor of the Stihl 180 chainsaw.

Tip: To check the tightness of the engine, it is very good to use a special device, i.e. special pump with pressure gauge. First you need to remove the carburetor on the chainsaw, and install a sealed plate plug with a flange on the inlet window of the cylinder to connect the hose to the pump. The spark plug for tightness can also be put on the sealant. You must also remove the muffler, and install a sealed plate with a rubber gasket on the exhaust port of the cylinder. Then you need to put the piston at top dead center and connect the hose from the pump to the flange. Next, you need to pump air into the engine up to 0.9 atm. and look at the gauge needle. if it stands still, then the piston of the engine is tight. Then we release air, switch the device (pump) and start pumping air out of the cylinder, creating a vacuum in the engine with a pressure gauge reading of 0.5 atm. We look at the pressure gauge needle. if it stands still, then through the gaskets or other seals in the engine there is no air leak (which worsens the operation of the chainsaw and does not allow the carburetor to be correctly adjusted for the chainsaw). Thus, we check the engine for air leakage and compression.

Adjusting the carburetor of the Stihl 180 chainsaw.

There is only one screw for adjusting the carburetor of the Stihl 180 chainsaw. the idle adjustment screw.

1. Standard idle adjustment (abbreviated h.kh.): turn the screw counterclockwise until it goes tight, after which we make two turns clockwise, and that’s it. 2. If the engine speed is too low, turn the screw clockwise until the chain starts to move, and then turn the screw 0.5 turns counterclockwise. 3. If the engine speed is too high, turn the screw counterclockwise until the chain stops turning, and then turn the screw another 0.5 turns counterclockwise.

That’s it, the carburetor adjustment for the Stihl 180 chainsaw is finished.

The main problems and malfunctions of the carburetor.

Strainer There are only two difficulties with this element:

To feel that to find out the cause of the breakdown, the fuel filter cover is unscrewed to remove the strainer. If he just accumulated dirt, then washing with gasoline or blowing will help.

Video: How to Change a Fishing Line In a Stihl 70 Trimmer

With visible damage to the strainer, it is imperative to install a new one. Damage to the fuel supply pipe also happens (when performing repairs, practice checking this element).

The carburetor starter usually does not work due to blockages. Use acetone or the same gasoline for flushing.

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How to change the fishing line in the trimmer and which is better to choose Since we saw the choice of the trimmer in the previous article, now we will tell you how to correctly trim the trimmer with a fishing line, and which is better to choose based on the criterion of work. After you purchased the trimmer and started to use it intensively, at some point, the question arises of replacing the fishing line, that.

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How to choose the best knife for the trimmer? Manual trimmers mow the vegetation with a fishing line or knives. In the first case, the functionality of the trimmer is limited by mowing soft grass with medium and low heights, since plant debris is wound on a flexible shaft or stick to a coil. With the installation of a knife for a trimmer, you can cut more rigid with.

Blowing off carburetor parts with a blockage of compressed air is an acceptable and comfortable repair practice.

The throttle body, the place of the bundles of carburetor parts, the intake or exhaust pipe. our client remains the listed parts are subject to depressurization. Probably you can check with a simple method. smear the problem area with soap suds.

The device of the carburetor lawn mowers

The base of the carburetor of the lawn mowers is a duralumin case. A diffuser (a hole with internal contours) is placed in a personal computer. Air is blown through this hole. The oxygen (air) flow rate depends on the cross-section (passage opening) of the diffuser.

The diffuser is equipped with fuel channels. There, the fuel is drawn in with an air stream.

Outside the carburetor is installed:

• fuel pump;
• jet system;
• system for adjusting the consistency of fuel with air;

FS-130, FS-100, FS-90 valve adjustment

The problem with the lawn mowing. The lawn mowing with a 4-stroke engine does not start or does not work well. Sadko lawn mowing. No.

Fuel is sucked into the carburetor system by a pump (its membrane). Then it passes through the fitting in the carburetor. Further, the fluid moves through the inlet and outlet valves of the pump. Filtered by mesh. The needle valve moves into the membrane chamber.

Phased operation of the device:

1. Air supply to the tube with an air baffle (damper). The partition controls the intensity of the air flow.
2. The fuel supply system is certainly narrowed by the mixer in order to increase the flow rate.
3. Gasoline through the float chamber and nozzle tube with narrowing. A camera with a float adjusts the temporary volume of gasoline. In the float chamber, the pressure level is neutral, in the tube with narrowing is already small. Due to the pressure drop, fuel leaks through the nozzle.
4. The acceleration of the air flow contributes to the transfer of fuel (gasoline) and its atomization. The result is an air-fuel mixture of the desired proportion or density.
5. The air-fuel mixture seeps into the engine cylinder through the fuel pipe.

The level of air density in the system depends on the area of ​​the open air damper. The wider the flap is open, the more than just the fuel consumption and power.

Simply put, adjusting the carburetor on the lawn mower is creating a good fuel consistency by using the correct air supply.

A chainsaw is a tool designed to cut branches and tree trunks. But often the so-called "assistant" in working with wood can fail. The main problem in this case is to determine the cause of the breakdown.

A chainsaw consists of three parts: a chain, a chainsaw tire and the engine itself, which drives the chain through the tire. All chainsaws use mainly a two-stroke engine.

A distinctive feature of this four-stroke internal combustion engine was the prostate structure (lack of a CPG lubrication system and a simple system for supplying fuel assemblies to cylinders).

This makes the two-stroke engine lighter than the four-stroke, which in turn facilitates the overall weight of the saw. But this simplicity also reduces the motor resource of the power unit. The fact is that oil in two-stroke engines is added to gasoline. And when the engine is running, it gets into the engine cylinder along with the fuel. This is how lubrication and cooling of rubbing parts inside the crankcase and cylinder occurs.

Of course, with long work this is not enough. Therefore, the first malfunction is the jamming of the piston in the cylinder due to overheating of the latter! In this case, the main recommendation when working with a chainsaw is to constantly stop the engine to cool the piston!

Such a remark is especially true in the hot season! Frequent jamming of the piston can lead to destruction of the compression rings and scuffing on the “mirror” of the cylinder. Which in turn will reduce the compression of the motor and, consequently, lower power!

Summary of the article:

• Motor does not start
• Carburetor repair in a chainsaw
• No oil enters tool chain
• Tire sprocket wear
• Photo-instructions for repairing chainsaws

Motor does not start

Another malfunction often encountered during the operation of such “engines” is not starting the engine when the starter is unwound by hand. The main reason in this case may be the ignition system.

The first step in this case is to check the candles. This will give a general idea of ​​what is happening in the combustion chamber. If the candle is “raw”, then this indicates the satisfactory operation of the fuel assembly system (fuel-air mixture) in the cylinder. If it is “dry”, then the reason lies in the malfunction of the fuel system.

In the first case, you need to look at the state of the candle electrodes. No soot is allowed, as this may be the reason for the lack of a “good” spark during magneto operation. Also, it will not be amiss to check the gap between the electrodes of the candle. If the clearance is not correct, then it should be adjusted. Still possible and just the failure of the candle.

In this case, the latter is simply replaced with a new one. If starting after these manipulations does not start, the probable cause is the failure of the ignition coil. This element, as a rule, is not repaired, but immediately changes to a new one. You can also check the condition of the armor wire from the coil to the spark plug. Breakdown of insulation of this wire is not allowed.

In the second case (when the candle is “dry”), the first thing to do is to check the condition of the carburetor air filter. As a rule, if it is contaminated, it simply changes to a new one, since this part is not so expensive. Then you need to check the fuel filter of the gas tank.

Dirt and metal particles from corrosion of the inner cavity of the tank can gradually "clog" the filter mesh element. This will lead to the cessation of fuel supply to the carburetor of the engine.

If the filter is in satisfactory condition, then the next step will be directly determining the performance of the carburetor. This device provides mixing of fuel with air before feeding into the fuel assembly cylinder.

Carburetor repair in a chainsaw

The design of carburetors of two-stroke engines is elementary. And the main reason here is the clogging of small holes and jets from debris leaked through the filter.

Therefore, disassembling the carburetor in this case can not be avoided. Thoroughly flushing carburetor elements and blowing holes with air: the basic technique in resolving this malfunction!

After the carburetor is assembled and mounted on the chainsaw motor. Then there is an adjustment of idling through the screws of the quantity and quality of the mixture. Each specific engine model has its own adjustment parameters recorded in the passport for this product.

As a rule, after this repair algorithm, the engine should start. However, this may not always happen. Therefore, a strong recommendation in this case is to check the compression in the cylinder!

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Perhaps the destruction of the CPG elements (cylinder-piston group) is the main reason for not starting. This, of course, will require a complete disassembly of the engine with an assessment of the condition of the piston, connecting rod, crankshaft. In this case, costly repairs to replace failed parts with new ones cannot be avoided.

With regard to malfunctions associated directly with the mechanical parts of the chainsaw, they are:

No oil enters tool chain

A very common malfunction. The fact is that the lubricant supply channel can become clogged with sawdust during operation.

This in turn will lead to oil starvation and rapid blunting of the chain teeth. Therefore, cleaning this channel from dirt is a constant concern for a person using a chainsaw.

Tire sprocket wear

If the chain tension is not observed in time, then the backlash formed between the sprocket teeth and chain troughs can lead to wear and even destruction of these teeth. Therefore, chain tension control is of utmost importance to the owner of this tool.

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The general recommendation for caring for a chainsaw is as follows: after work, it is necessary to clean the chainsaw from dirt and sawdust, while using cleaning fluids and compressed air !!

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Cleaning and repairing a chainsaw carburetor or replacement.

Cleaning, adjusting or repairing a chainsaw carburetor is one of the most sought after repair services. Since the gasoline saw motor is 2-stroke and runs on the mixture, oil is always present in the fuel, which tends to decompose. Not just that all manufacturers of such equipment recommend storing the solution for no more than 3 weeks, and store the saw without fuel or with clean gasoline in the carburetor. In other words, if after work you have not prepared the saw for long-term storage, then you should know: the probability that your carburetor will be clogged is 80%. We do not recommend repairing chainsaws or climbing into the carburetor yourself, because in its device there are a lot of small parts that fly out and get lost during improper disassembly. The problem of loss of locking rubber bands and gaskets during the purge of the nozzles is especially common. For cleaning carburetors we use special fluids and ultrasounds, but unfortunately not all carburetors can be flushed, adjusted and repaired, and sometimes it is necessary to completely replace the carburetor.

Overhaul of the chainsaw engine.

I repeat. the 2-stroke engine of the chainsaw is refueled with a solution of gasoline with oil. The oil in the solution plays the role of lubricating the engine and therefore if you work on clean gasoline or use an old solution with oil that has precipitated, you will ruin the engine with a 100% probability. Without lubrication, the chainsaw engine can work for a minute and 30 minutes, depending on the quality of the tool and the materials from which it is made. We saw a lot of motors that worked without oil, and customers tell different stories, someone worked without oil for about half an hour. these are good saws like: Husqvarna, Stihl, Echo, Oleo-mac; Someone bent over in the first 5 minutes, these are Chinese saws. such as: Champion, Patriot, Prorab, Interskol and others. The consequences of oil starvation are: seizure on the piston and cylinder, sticking rings, wedge of needle bearing and crankshaft. The only treatment will be the replacement of the piston group (CPG). rings, piston and cylinder, bearings and seals. It must be remembered that the correct use of the tool will protect against expensive overhaul of a chainsaw.

Chainsaw starter repair with spring and rope replacement.

The so-called manual chainsaw starter is used to start the engine. Very often we take saws with a torn or sticking out rope and request to repair only the starter, but you need to understand why the starter is broken. This usually happens after constant attempts to start a faulty motor. We can fix the starter, but there is no guarantee that the engine will start, so initially we look at the condition of the engine and only then we begin to make the starter. Chainsaw repair is an integrated approach to the installation of the entire tool. The list of works includes: replacing the rope, replacing the springs, replacing the dogs, replacing the ratchet.

Replacing drive chain.

One of the most frequent calls to our service center is the replacement of the drive chain sprocket sprocket. At first glance, it might seem that this is an elementary operation that can be done with your own hands. In principle, the way it is if you have a special tool, the skill to lock the piston and remove the clutch. Obvious signs that it is necessary to repair the chainsaw are: chain wedging and extraneous noise in the area of ​​the chain brake. Turning the saw over you will see the star and its output.

Injection engines

The main advantage that the manufacturers of the first engines with electronic injection indicated in their advertisements was the exceptional stability of the work. Indeed, the installation of an injection controlled by microprocessors helped to accurately meter the amount of fuel entering the cylinders, which means to reduce fuel consumption, reduce the intensity of vibrations and noise, and also achieve compliance with the latest environmental standards. The fact is that mixture formation in the injection motor is carried out directly in the intake tract, and not in a separate unit. for this, special nozzles are used, which play the role of a sprayer. At the same time, they certainly do not need frequent adjustment. even if any of the parameters deviates from the norm, the electronics will give a command to automatically correct it, and after a few flashes, the system balance will return to normal.

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In addition, automatic adjustment of the injection motor allows for easier start-up even at very low temperatures, as the electronics selects the optimal fuel metering parameters for rarefied air. A significant difference between the two systems for supplying fuel to the engine cylinders is also that the injector can be adjusted depending on the needs of the motorist. To do this, just upload a new program to the control unit or change the parameters of an existing one. In some expensive cars of recent years of production, there is even the possibility of changing the maximum power or response to the gas pedal by pressing a single button located in the passenger compartment.

Of course, such advantages as environmental friendliness, profitability and the ability to control parameters are very important. However, the injector also has a number of rather serious drawbacks. The main disadvantage of such a system is its high cost. in the manufacture of the engine control unit, many complex components are used, not to mention nozzles, sensors and electric drives. In addition, even the simplest breakdown may require contacting a specialized service station, since without a special electronic scanner and other equipment it will be impossible to eliminate it. Of course, almost any car service company now has all the necessary tools, but you still need to get to it, because it will not work to repair the car “in the field”.

Also, almost all injection engines are sensitive to fuel quality. If we talk about modern engines with direct fuel injection into cylinders, then even the appearance of small solid impurities or salts of heavy metals in gasoline is unacceptable to them. This is due to the use of piezoelectric nozzles, the components of which can be dissolved by many chemical compounds. It is worth mentioning that some engines with an electronic injection system require the use of gasoline with an octane rating of A-98 or more for stable operation. Finally, we can say about the dependence on electronic components, which makes injection engines inaccessible for use in military vehicles.

The choice

Knowing how the injector differs from the carburetor, you can choose the best option for the purchase. At present, carburetor cars of domestic or foreign manufacturers will be in demand more likely in small towns and villages remote from large settlements. It will be useful for their maintainability, as well as the availability of spare parts and the ability to adjust on their own. In other cases, injection machines, which are characterized by lower fuel consumption, facilitated start-up of the power unit and excellent stability of operation, will be the best choice.

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