According to its parameters, the saw is designed to solve everyday problems. Due to its low weight, compact size and low price, it was ideally suited for small jobs: cutting firewood, boards, cutting branches of trees, cleaning trees and shrubs on the site.
By the way, the chainsaw was in great demand among road workers, due to its compactness and reliability. It was ideally suited for lengthy trimming of trees along city streets.
The device of the chainsaw turned out to be very successful, the saw was incredibly reliable, the failure rate tended to zero. The first years of production, Husqvarna 137 did not occur in specialized chainsaw repair services.
Despite the amateur class, the chainsaw has been and is still very popular with lumberjacks, as Ideal for small jobs when harvesting firewood.
The Husqvarna 137 is comparable in technical specifications to the Stihl 180 chainsaw. Each chainsaw had its dedicated fans. Each of the owners gave reasoned facts in favor of owning his saw, and was right. Both of them had their pros and cons. But, the Stihl 180 remained, and the 137th was replaced by the Husqvarna 236 chainsaw. This is the topic of a separate article, let’s move on to an overview of the characteristics of Husqvarna 137.
Video: Husqvarna Chainsaw 40 55 How to Adjust a Carburetor
Main technical specifications:
engine type: ICE, gasoline;
engine displacement: 36.3 cubic meters cm.;
engine power: 1,64 hp / 2.2 kW;
fuel tank capacity: 419 ml;
oil tank capacity: 200 ml;
tire length: from 33 to 38 cm;
chain pitch: 0.325 inches (8.25 mm);
weight: 4.6 kg.
From the above characteristics of the engine and the saw headset (tire, chain) it can be seen that the chainsaw belongs to the amateur class. It is quite powerful and allows you to cut tree trunks with a diameter of up to 40 centimeters per hemp without much effort.
For those who are still interested in hearing the opinion of a professional about comparing competitors’ chainsaws: Stihl 180 and Husqvarna 137, we recommend watching an interesting video.
Reviewed by Vlad, experience in using 4 years, the city of Vladimir.
Pros: lightweight, comfortable, can be cut from almost any position.
Minuses: it turns out that they do exist, increased vibration, an unsuccessful position of the muffler, which is why sawdust constantly flies to its feet.
Husqvarna 137 is a relatively old chainsaw and many specimens already require repair: from basic adjustment or carburetor replacement to piston repair. To perform such complex work, you need to contact a specialized service center. However, if you have the desire and experience in repairing complex equipment, you can try to cope with certain malfunctions with your own hands.
For an effective repair, you will need some skills and advice, we advise you to draw them from the presented videos.
It is advisable to know the Husqvarna chainsaw device before disassembling it.
It’s worth starting with disassembling and assembling, this is the main thing you need to know when repairing a Husqvarna 137 chainsaw with your own hands. The Swedes, making their saws, try to do everything so that their saws are difficult to repair somewhere other than a specialized service.
The second and most popular is the carburetor adjustment of the Husqvarna 137 chainsaw. This process is no different from the setting of carburetors on other Husqvarna AB saws. All adjustments are made using 3 screws. About how to adjust the carburetor of the Husqvarna 137 chainsaw, which screw to turn, in which direction and how many revolutions, it is described in detail in the video, we recommend watching.
The Stihl MC 180 chainsaw is in operation. The problem is as follows. Before preserving for the winter, on the advice of mechanics, I dripped 4 drops of motor oil (Stihl) into the hole in the plug. twisted the candle. Now I was going to go to the country, I decided to look at the saw. He pulled the starter, but it does not spin! He unscrewed the candle, it is in oil, rubbed it back. same. Unscrewed, scrolled the starter without a candle, everything spins perfectly. Spun back, the starter does not spin. What could be?
Rinse the chainsaw with clean, undiluted gasoline, pour directly through the spark plug hole and slowly rotate the starter. Then drain the fuel and over again. After all these manipulations, dry the saw and candle and only after that try to start it. Once you learned to preserve, then learn and re-preserve, and not just pulled and drove off.
Tell me, for what reason can the starter jam? The Stihl 180 chain saw is brand new.
You will not understand, you will not know. Maybe the launch cord does not fit well, or maybe somewhere the ebb interferes. Shtilevskie starters are quite reliable and durable. Some diseases of a constructive plan are not observed, mainly dirt, or intensive exploitation. Once a new chainsaw is brought to the service under the warranty will be repaired.
I’ve noticed one peculiarity in my Stihl MS 180 chainsaw: when gas runs out in the tank, idle speed increases and the chain starts to rotate even when the trigger is released. When you press the gas, the chainsaw stalls. It lasts a couple of tens of seconds, then the chainsaw stops. In automotive technology, I did not observe such a phenomenon, so that with a shortage of fuel in the carburetor, the engine speed would increase. Why it happens?
This is a common occurrence for two-stroke engines. When the supply of gasoline to the carburetor decreases, the mixture becomes leaner. Consequently. increase in speed, deterioration of acceleration. This is accompanied by a short-term overheating of the CPG. The engine will not fail, but it will not add health. Running out of fuel from the tank to the end should be avoided.
There is a Stihl MS180 chainsaw, used in the summer season on the preparation of firewood. Recently, the reaction of the chain began to disappear when you press the gas, the chain does not spin at all, or in jerks. impossible to cut. What could be the breakdown?
For a completely new chain and sprocket, the tension must be exactly according to the instructions. so that the lower branch does not sag. and the upper fingers could be pulled to the height of the leading link. Then the chain will be quite free to walk on the bus. But, the gradual wear of the sprocket teeth reduces its pitch. A gradual extension of the chain increases its pitch. and the time comes when the steps of the same sprocket and chain cease to coincide to such an extent that the recommended stretch already causes difficult chain movement. In this case, we recommend that the tension be slightly reduced. Until the appearance of some sag of the lower branch. By the way, for the same reason, it is recommended to use a pair, or even three chains, on one sprocket. In this case, the wear is even and there will be no accelerated wear of the new chain on the old, partially worked out sprocket.
Stihl 180 chainsaw after starting when you press the gas "chokes" and ate to start sawing it stalls. However, if you torment with gas for 30-40 seconds, it starts to work normally. I developed 3 liters of gasoline, the filter is clean, the oil from the dealer.
If this started recently, then most likely something got into the carburetor with low-quality fuel. Need to clean.
I want to purchase this unit. What should I look for during an examination?
Not to mention the engine itself, since it is better to diagnose it in the service, you can look at the rest and get a lot of information. Significant mileage will be indicated by: Dangling latch of the top cover. (Must close tightly and do not turn away from vibration). New star on a tattered chainsaw. With the cover removed, the movement of the engine relative to the body. Cut chain catcher and chain damage on sprocket cover. You can also carefully inspect the carburetor on the left along the side. the place where the wire rod enters the lever of the axis of the air damper. With a slightly working chain saw, it will be flat, oblong. The longer the saw has worked, the greater will be the development of this hole. Sometimes rubbed through and through. In no case should you take a saw that has at least a slight play of the right end of the crankshaft relative to the engine. This is a sign of a quick overhaul.
How many seconds should the Stihl ms 180 chainsaw engine idle before turning it off?
Allow to work for about 20-30 seconds and then jam. . there’s no point.
Idling began to disappear, at first I did not understand what was the matter, and then I remembered that it was necessary to add a lot of idling, I added on a hot motor it seemed to work out. I arrive in a week to the cottage, I need to saw a couple of logs, I start a saw and first the chain rotates on a cold motor and then everything goes through, I stood there for about 10 minutes and I start everything normally only on a cold motor. This is normal?
If the chain turns, then the speed is too high. It should be borne in mind that with a normally regulated and serviceable engine, a slightly increased idle speed is quite possible immediately after starting before warming up. And he can be promoted decently. until the chain rotates. With the engine warming up, idle is gradually lowered. For this reason, it is recommended to adjust the idle speed only on a warm engine.
Is it possible to put a clutch drum with a removable crown on a Stihl MS 180 chainsaw ("modernization" drum allowed), for example from the 250th.
Can. Everything fits perfectly. Just don’t need to go on, 325". it’s hard for the motor. But you should keep in mind a couple of nuances. On such a set (with removable) the sprocket is slightly larger in diameter and one tooth larger. The speed of the chain will increase in the proportion of 6: 7, respectively, the load on the engine will increase. But practice has shown that this is not critical with normally sharpened chains. And the second one. A completely new chain of 50 links to such an asterisk is difficult to put on. (In general, 51 links are recommended, but they are rarely). The first time you have to torment, so she stood on the sprocket and tire. And then, when it is slightly stretched, everything will dress normally.
I bought a Stihl 180 chainsaw. I filled in oil, benzyl. Started up and let it work without load at idle. He burned a tank of gas, periodically slightly pressing on the gas. Why didn’t the oil for chain lubrication have been received, the oil hole remained dry. Or will it begin to arrive when the revolutions are greater and the chain rotates longer?
At the 180th calm, oil is supplied to the chain when the drive sprocket rotates (in short, when the chain rotates), but it is not recommended to run in at idle.
Video: Why Giving a Full Gas Chainsaw Stalls
On the MS 180 chainsaw, after using one tank of fuel, I have at least half of the oil tank left. The ditch of the tire and the base of the chain, which is in the groove, in oil. But when checking, the oil for some reason does not splash off the chain and the cutting teeth, in my opinion, remain dry during sawing. Wood plaque forms on top of the cutting tooth. Oil arrives, but it turns out in insufficient volume. Nothing could clog, a new chainsaw, a clean hole. Marriage of the manufacturer or is it the way it should be?
I will not argue about the flow of chain oil on the calm, but 2-3 tanks of fuel per tank of oil is not too much? I have less than a quarter tank of oil left after running out of a tank of gasoline.
When I start a tool with the chain brake turned off, it sometimes turns on itself when I pull the starter handle. Is this normal?
This model is quite peculiar at launch, there is no decompressor and / or elastostart that compensate for the return, and despite the small size of the piston, it is pretty decent. Because of this, the saw must be started confidently, smoothly engaging the starter, sharply and evenly pull the starter cord, it is worth at some point loosening the grip or lowering the pulling speed as the recoil will remind you of an unpleasant sensation.
What is the difference with a Stihl MS 180 chain saw with a 30cm tire. and with a bus of 35 cm? That is, the distance from the gear stop to the tip of the tire?
So this value changes during operation. The stronger the chain is stretched, the greater this distance. And the longer the tire, the greater the difference in cut lengths with a new and extended chain. The difference in the length of the cut between a completely new and extended chain will be about 1 cm. The tire does not extend, but simply its tip moves farther away from the saw body, otherwise the chain will not be stretched. The limit for increasing the length of the cut is determined precisely by the length of the tensioner screw and in which place of this screw the tensioner cracker was located when a new chain was installed. The farther it was from the leading sprocket, the faster, ceteris paribus, the chain will become unusable due to excessive stretching. I’m afraid that it’s unlikely that a tire will be longer than the standard 1 cm. Typical tire lengths for household models. 12", 14", 16" and 18" for chains 3/8" x 1.3 mm vs 13", fifteen" and 18" for chains 0.325" x 1.3 mm.
Is it possible to keep the brake off when starting, or is it necessary for the brake to be on?
And this is more convenient and safer to you. There are three main launch options. idling on "half gas" and on "full throttle". In the first case, the chain is stationary after starting, or may twitch slightly. In the second and third cases. the chain moves. Putting the brake in the operating position in the first start-up option is a waste of time. It is highly unlikely that the idle speed would suddenly and without reason increase so much that the chain would move. In the second and third cases, when starting with the activated brake, it is necessary to immediately disconnect the brake after starting so as not to burn the clutch. When starting with the brake turned off after starting, you need to press and release the gas lever so that the saw engine switches to idle mode (in the third case, at the time of starting, this lever is already pressed, it only needs to be released).
It was necessary to work, the saw started up quickly, although it stood for 5 months without work, having cut everything that was necessary, it burned one tank of fuel; everything is fine. But I arrive in a week, under it a puddle of oil before this was not like that. What could it be?
Never been on these chainsaws. Usually it breaks the oil hose from the pump mount if you leave cold oil in the tank and put the saw in heat. The breather only works inward, the pump does not allow air to pass through, so there is nowhere to go to the excess pressure, and it squeezes the hose.
I bought a Stihl MC 180 C-BE chainsaw. Started according to the instructions. Everything works fine, but for too long and too many actions. I tried to start without brake in position I, and also started up the first time. Tell me, is it possible to do this and how can this threaten?
It is better to start without a brake, the clutch will burn quickly. Warm generally easy to start.
Today I have not wound up the tool. He unscrewed the candle, it is wet. He put it on the gas burner, then tried again. It does not start at all. He pulled out a candle about five times, and all the time it was wet. What to do
You try and not dry the candle. I drenched them. I usually start looking like this: Unscrew the candle, turn off the ignition. Jerk 10. 15 starter (if heavily flooded, put the muffler down and twitch). Then I’m blowing a candle on the candle in order to bring down the surplus fuel and turn it on. But then I start looking not from the lowest position, but from the second from the bottom (the air damper is open and "launcher" gas). Usually a jerk from the third. fourth start. Smoke a little and everything works. And sometimes it’s too lazy to turn out the candle, so I give my foot full gas (on the ground, of course) and pull until it starts. Most often it will work. And if after blowing and drying the candles you start again from the lower position, then you will flood again. there is already an excess of fuel, and we’ll close the damper.
During operation, the stihl ms 180 c chainsaw stopped holding idle and died out. With difficulty started, but again stalled at idle. After that, she does not want to start. The next day, after unsuccessful attempts to start, removed and washed the air filter. It did not help, I had to remove the candle. It turned out to be dry, although there were plenty of attempts to start it. I cleaned the breather with a needle (it was not clogged). Changed the fuel filter (although the old one is visually not dirty). He cleaned the carburetor and just in case put a new candle. The saw won’t start! He unscrewed the candle again. dry. What to do?
Remove the silencer. Look at the piston, if it has longitudinal stripes, then replacement is required.
Stihl 180 chainsaw operating six years, bought a new one. I am satisfied with the saw, except for oil, filters and bearing lubrication, I did not touch anything, I did decent work over the years. This year I had to cut a lot, I worked for three days. On the second day, the saw began to undermine; On the third day, the turnover fell by about 2/3. It works at idle, sometimes it can stall, it does not start the first time. Yesterday set did not touch. What could be?
I would have looked at the muffler. If you have never cleaned it in 6 years, it clogged and there is nothing to do with exhaust fumes. Usually, with these symptoms, either the air filter is blocked or the silencer.
Recently I learned that it is advisable from time to time to turn the tire over on a chainsaw. for uniform wear. Tell me, is this so, is it worth it?
Turning the tire over is not just desirable. required. How often. depends on the volume of work. Not only flip, but also grind burrs.
What is the difference between the leading and chain sprockets of a Stihl 180 chainsaw?
Differences between "leading asterisk" and "sprocket" no, these are different names for the same part.
I bought this chainsaw, I really liked it, but I want to ask you if my saw can cut a thick tree?
Standard tire length. 35 cm, it is possible to cut a log. 70 cm in diameter, if logs of this diameter prevail, then you need a chainsaw of greater power. The tool will cope, of course, with the task, slowly and correctly cut all the logs of large diameter, but you need to remember that by giving heavy loads to the device that was not created for this, you (at best) reduce the life of the chainsaw, that is, bring it closer to overhaul.
Please tell me if it is possible to use the 45 cm tire with the Stihl 180 chain saw?
You can put a tire with a maximum length of 40 cm on the chainsaw.
Where is the breather in the Stihl ms 180 chainsaw?
Vent valve ("breather") is "from above" gas tank and oil tank, visually not see, because everything is closed there by the starter housing.
In horizontal position, the gas button sticks. What to do?
Most likely, the linkage mechanism is faulty when the unit is turned over "sinks" one of the levers or rods.
Why is oil not supplied to the chainsaw tire lubricant? What is the problem?
The oil filter is clogged. The channel in the chainsaw block is clogged. The channel and groove of the tire are clogged. Faulty oil pump drive (worm). Faulty oil pump. Out of oil in the oil tank.
What can you say about the overheating of the Stihl 180 chainsaw engine?
I will try to explain about overheating of a working chainsaw. I understand the working chainsaw as follows: the carburetor is correctly adjusted (it is enough to set the idle normally, by ear or by the tachometer 2800), bearings, oil seals, filters, and a candle. in order. The cooling system should also be in order, but it happens that you can’t see what color the starter cover is, the grille is clogged, the air hardly passes. If a working chain saw will work on a normal fuel mixture (high-quality gasoline with a sufficiently high octane rating, good two-stroke oil and its correct proportion). then it’s practically impossible to overheat (a sharp chain. It goes without saying). The cause of overheating is directly related to the fuel, you can overheat a new saw in 5 minutes, and a working one. The reason for overheating. not work or its duration, but fuel or oil. Or both. And at home, moderate use, subject to all of the above, this tool will never overheat.
Why does the cylinder get warm and does the saw stall when heated?
Any two-stroke engine of a chainsaw runs on a mixture of gasoline with oil, respectively, how long it will last depends on the quality and the correct mixture of these components. Also, in chainsaws, it is necessary to lubricate the tire and chain, and the quality of lubrication is not the last factor affecting the duration of use of these parts of the chainsaw. In this article, we’ll talk about the oils that Stihl produces and recommends for use not only on our own chainsaws.
Stihl two-stroke lubricant
Stihl engineers are developing oils that are optimally suited for all two-stroke engines installed on Stihl chainsaws and more. The Stihl two-stroke engine lubricant line includes several product options:
Stihl HP is a chainsaw lubricant designed to meet the highest quality requirements and is designed to lubricate the internal parts of the engine during operation. It is made on a mineral basis and has good combustion performance (it has a low level of emission of harmful substances during combustion).
The original Stihl HP is red and sold in Stihl’s original packaging.
It comes in several packaging options, the most popular of which is a one-liter bottle with an integrated dispenser. You can also find Stihl HP in five, ten and fifty-five liter cans.
The smallest Stihl HP packaging, which is convenient to use when you need to prepare just one liter of the fuel mixture, is a twenty-gram plastic bottle.
The company also produces one hundred gram bottles of Stihl HP, which can be used to prepare five liters of fuel mixture.
According to the manufacturer’s recommendations, Stihl HP can be used to prepare the mixture for any two-stroke engines.
Shelf life, if stored in unopened containers, is 4 years.
Stihl HP Ultra Review
Unlike conventional Stihl HP oils, the HP Ultra is designed for high engine loads during operation and is recommended for use on professional chainsaws. This is a synthetic oil. In order to prevent consumers from confusing diluted fuel, it has a green color, respectively, a ready-made mixture of gasoline with Stihl HP Ultra, also has a greenish tint.
There are only two packings of this oil. This is a Stihl HP Ultra 100 ml and 1 liter with dispenser.
The cost of Stihl HP Ultra is almost twice the price of Stihl HP and for this reason it is less popular in our country.
Shelf life Stihl HP Ultra four years.
Designed for high-performance and four-stroke engines made using 2-MIX technology. The specs are slightly worse than those of the HP Ultra, which is why the HP Super is not currently on sale at official Stihl dealers.
The proportions of the fuel mixture
Very often, people ask how much oil per liter of gasoline is considered the norm. It is easy to answer it, because the instructions for any Stihl chainsaw, as well as on the additive packaging, indicate that when using original Stihl products, the proportions of oil and gasoline should be 1:50. This means that for one liter of fuel, it is necessary to add 20 ml of additive.
Video: Proportions of Oil For Two-Stroke Chainsaw Engines
During the break-in period of a new chainsaw, it is allowed to slightly increase the amount of oil per liter of gasoline. For example, you can dilute one liter, 25 ml of oil, this will reduce the load on the grinding parts and extend the life of the chainsaw.
Which oil to choose
If you are a regular user of a chainsaw and do not use it for 6-8 hours daily, while working only in the summer, then you can use the usual Stihl HP to prepare the fuel mixture for your chainsaw. The optimal ratio of price and quality of the lubricant has made it popular among millions of users of gasoline powered tools.
Stihl HP can be used to make mixes for any two-stroke engine, including moped motors and boat options.
Stihl Chain Oil (Oil Overview)
The Stihl range of chain lubricants includes three types of products, these are:
When working, it is necessary to use the type of lubricant that best meets the conditions and duration of work. Consider each of the oils for the Stihl chain in more detail.
ForestPlus chain lubricant is a high-quality product that creates a reliable film on the tire web and chain links that holds well even at maximum chain speeds.
It is packaged in three types of containers, a liter bottle and canisters of five and twenty liters.
ForestPlus has the lowest shelf life among Stihl oils, which is only three years old under proper storage conditions.
BioPlus Chain Oil Overview
BioPlus is made on a plant basis, which allows it to decompose when it enters the soil in a short time. This property is marked by the European sign of environmental safety. According to information that is available on the manufacturer’s website and is official, BioPlus has been tested according to OECD 301 B.
For the maximum convenience of consumers, it is packaged in 4 types of containers, these are:
Three liter canister.
Five liter canister.
Plastic twenty-liter canister for those who work with a chainsaw daily and spend a large amount of lubricants.
The price of BioPlus may vary depending on the region of sale.
Shelf life of BioPlus is four years. Brown colour.
SynthPlus is a semi-synthetic oil that retains its properties even under the most severe conditions. It is able to maintain performance at a temperature of minus 25 degrees. SynthPlus mixes well with BioPlus, making it easy to switch from one type of oil to another.
SynthPlus has a high shelf life, which, when properly stored, reaches seven years. SynthPlus oil color, brown.
Stihl SynthPlus is packaged in containers of the same capacity as BioPlus.
Which oil to choose for the chain
The optimal oil option for chain lubrication is BioPlus, and it is worth choosing for those who saw with a chainsaw from time to time. The optimum price and quality of BioPlus has made it the most popular Stihl chain lubricant.
It is also worth remembering that BioPlus does not harm the environment, because it is made on a plant basis and decomposes in the shortest possible time, which is also important when working with a chainsaw in its own area.
How to distinguish fake Stihl oil
Attackers do not miss the opportunity to earn on the sale of fake products of a well-known brand. Stihl oil is no exception. Most often you can find fake Stihl HP, because its sales volumes are the highest of the entire Stihl range of lubricants.
In order to distinguish the fake from the original, Stihl issued a special brochure, which recorded all the main differences between the original and the fake.
Also, we suggest you watch a video in which a concrete example shows how a package of high-quality Stihl oil should look and how to distinguish a fake.
We reviewed all of the Stihl oils, and found that the most popular lubricant for 2-stroke engines is Stihl HP. It is it that needs to be used under ordinary conditions, because in this case you do not have to overpay, and the engine will be reliably protected.
Saw chain, for ordinary users, must be lubricated with BioPlus, because the other options are designed for harsh conditions or work in the winter. Also, we figured out that the correct ratio of gasoline to oil is 1:50, but during the break-in period you can slightly change it and make the mixture in a ratio of 1:40, i.e. 25 ml per 1 liter of gasoline. Learned how to distinguish a fake Stihl BioPlus from the original.
A cordless chain saw combines the strengths of electric power and the mobility of a gasoline tool. The use of rechargeable batteries in energy-intensive equipment became possible with the creation of batteries of high power, but low weight. The tool works without harmful emissions and low noise. In countries where ecology is dominant in production processes, even forestry professionals are switching to using cordless chain saws.
The principle of operation of chain saws, the requirements for battery models
The tool is designed to use the engine torque when the chain rotates on the tire, is equipped with cutters and is a working body. The energy of rotation of the shaft can be obtained from an internal combustion engine or electricity. The battery provides the tool with the necessary energy, discharging.
The chain saw on the battery has several advantages over gasoline and network models:
mobility, like a gasoline tool;
minimal noise, like a network device;
smooth and easy start;
lack of exhaust and the danger of using a combustible substance;
refueling and maintenance of the combustion system are not required;
easy safe transportation of the tool.
However, cordless tools are expensive, inferior in power to gasoline models, equal in price.
Like other chainsaws, cordless saws are divided by the intensity of use into household, universal and professional. The more work a cordless chain saw can do, the harder and more expensive it will be.
Basically, all tools are equipped with lithium-ion batteries with the lowest terminal voltage of 18 V, but more often with two sets of batteries providing 36 V.
When choosing a tool, you need to focus on engine power, tire length and engine location. Determines the choice of a comfortable grip and a comfortable body position during work. Without a lock button from accidentally turning on the saw should not be bought.
Overview of cordless chain saw models
You can create a powerful sawing unit based on a 36-volt lithium-ion battery. The length of the saw part is from 18 cm, the engine is longitudinal or transverse.
Determine the convenience and functionality of the tool:
convenient capture of the back handle;
low center of gravity;
capacious battery with charging indicator;
active and inertial brakes;
emphasis, low return and vibration;
easy collection and adjustment of tension without tools.
The Ryobi RY40510 cordless chain saw can be used by amateurs. You need to work on it slowly, as protection against engine overheating is not provided. If the chain becomes jammed, the engine, overcoming resistance, burns out. Saws with a large 2.6 Ah battery do the job faster than newer models with a low power of 1.6 Ah.
The tool does not have a chain brake, the guard protrudes, shortening the length of the cut. To turn off the power, you must change the position of the battery. Thick oil does not flow into the tank due to a narrow neck. The advantages of the model include convenient headset adjustment and emphasis.
Video: How to Choose a Cordless Chainsaw
Energy sources are used at 40V and 36 V. The weight of the tool is 3.9 and 4.4 kg, respectively.
There are other models equipped with a 5 Ah battery, but the basic ergonomics have remained the same.
As an example, imagine a Makita cordless chain saw HCU02ZX2 / 02C1. Specifications:
batteries 2×18 V, 36 V;
weight. 5 kg;
tire length. 30 cm;
chain. low profile, 46 saw links.
In one modification, 2 18 V batteries are used, in another 36 V battery and a charger.
Testing has shown that the saw is powerful, and the use of two batteries allows you to use one for several tools. Paired elements are charged equally, the smallest capacity will determine. Charge level indicators are installed on the adapter.
The device has advantages. it uses effective chain braking, convenient adjustment of the chain tension without tools, adjustable oil flow.
But the ergonomics of the model require refinement:
A high stick shifts the center of gravity back. The distance between the grips is small, which is inconvenient.
During operation, the saw has to be kept from spontaneous rotation relative to the sawing line.
Traditionally, the price of the product, as well as all Makita products, is high.
The Bosch AKE 30 LI cordless chain saw is balanced, with convenient handles. The case is made of plastic, the grip points are made of non-slip, pleasant to the touch materials.
The batteries used are lithium-ion. It takes 1.5 hours to fully charge the battery, and charging up to 80%. 65 minutes. The only electrochemical pair that can be recharged without waiting for the battery to reach its full capacity. Batteries remain active with a slight temperature minus. Therefore, lithium-ion batteries are the best for use in powerful technology.
The weight of the machine with batteries is 5.2 kg, the saw blade rotates 8 m / s. The tool is intended for domestic use.
When running without load, the motor just rumbles quietly. You can assemble the saw blade and attach it to the case without additional tools. Oil is poured into the tank through a removable filter, the oil level is visible in a special window. A charger is included, there is a process indication with an indication of faults.
Cutting can be done along and across the fibers. There is braking with a sound signal. The slices are even, in the manufacture of furniture require only grinding. When the canvas is clamped, it brakes without jerking, gently.
The tool is the most functional, well balanced and can be used in everyday life. During testing, the cordless chain saw received the highest rating, no comments were found.
The Greenworks cordless chain saw is supplied with batteries up to 80 V. The models with batteries with a capacity of 40 V and a blade length of 40 cm are most in demand. Brushless models are presented in the line, a novelty that is not used by all companies, increases the cost of models, but increases its service life, is easier in operation.
The company presents models for amateur and professional use. For domestic purposes, an inexpensive tool is available on a 24 V platform, the length of the saw blade is 25 cm.
Stihl cordless chain saw is the new word from a well-known manufacturer. The use of lithium-ion batteries is just a new emphasis on ergonomic technology. The tool weighs 2.7 kg without a battery and is equipped with branded saw blades in increments of ¼ P.
In test trials, the Stihl saw turned out to be the undisputed leader in all positions. Narrow cuts save energy. High speed chain rotation, brushless motor, 4.5 Ah battery. these are indicators while the leading ones.
A flaw was discovered, the battery is not fixed, which can lead to its loss and damage.
The Husqvarna cordless chain saw is represented by the 436 Li. Mid-range performance tool. Harvesting firewood and gardening is the purpose of a 36-volt battery-powered tool. Charging the battery lasts 55 minutes.
The advantages of the design include a toolless chain tension and its forced lubrication. The models use a brushless motor. Assessment of users of the saw by comparing the ratio of the class of gasoline and cordless saws as "Merce" and "Lada". The same applies to the price. Read about Husqvarna chainsaws!
Stihl does not use off-the-shelf components from outside manufacturers to assemble their chainsaws. Therefore, the original Stihl MS 660 chainsaws have carburetors manufactured by this company. On Chinese chainsaws can be carburetors manufactured by Walbro, Rezer, Kimoto, Cingcong, as well as other unknown manufacturers.
Which carburetor is installed on a Stihl MS 660 chainsaw
The Stihl MS 660 chainsaw carburetor is of the membrane type, which allows it to work even in an inverted position. The company has more than half a century of production of chainsaws, so each node is quite perfect.
Non-original products from other manufacturers most often have an identical design.
The Stihl MS 660 chainsaw is one of the most powerful in the world (7.1 hp), a professional class.
Therefore, the carburetor on it is characterized by increased throughput, sufficient for such an engine size, and reliability.
The device and principle of operation of the carburetor chainsaw Stihl MS 660
The carburetor of this model consists of almost 50 parts, including fasteners.
The main components of the carburetor chainsaw Stihl MS 660:
Housing made of light alloys of non-ferrous metals, with supply channels for the fuel-air mixture, storage chamber.
Diffuser and chamber in the housing for spraying fuel.
Jets with calibrated openings for metered fuel supply.
Air and throttle valves.
Needle valve for opening and closing the gas supply channel from the tank.
Elastic membrane that defines the position of the needle valve.
Manual fuel pump for starting a cold engine (primer, or suction).
At the first start of the cold engine of the chainsaw, gasoline is manually pumped up with the primer button. The first jerks of the starter are made with the choke closed. After setting and during engine operation, the air damper opens.
During operation of the internal combustion engine, a vacuum forms in the combustion chamber, and the mixture is sucked in automatically.
At idle, the intake of the mixture is limited by a closed throttle with an opening for the passage of a small amount of fuel.
The throttle position is adjusted when the chainsaw is operated by a gas handle. When the handle is pressed, it opens, the fuel supply to the internal combustion engine increases, and vice versa.
On a note! A mixture of low gasoline and lots of air is called lean. Conversely, a mixture with more gas and less air is called enriched.
For normal operation of the internal combustion engine, the mixture should be optimal in proportion to fuel and air, which is achieved by adjusting the carburetor of the Stihl MS 660 chainsaw.
Do-it-yourself carburetor adjustment for the Stihl MS 660 chainsaw
All carburetors on Stihl MS 660 chainsaws are factory-set on equipped stands. This provides the best parameters of the internal combustion engine in all modes. Settings get lost extremely rarely. Before adjusting, make sure that it is necessary. Deterioration of the engine can be caused by other reasons:
Air filter clogged.
Clogged with spark plugs and silencer outlet pipes.
If there is no problem with them, or they are resolved, and the internal combustion engine is not working properly, start adjusting.
The Stihl MS 660 chainsaw carburetor has three adjusting screws:
LA for idle adjustment.
H for adjusting the fuel supply at high speeds (main screw).
L to adjust the proportions of fuel and air (mixture quality screw).
Screws L and H are located nearby, LA at a distance from them. All of them are marked on the case.
What you need to adjust
To access the adjustment, just remove the upper housing cover and air filter. Therefore, only a screwdriver for the slots of the adjustment screws is required from the tool.
For professional carburetor adjustment, an electronic tachometer is required. It accurately indicates the idle and maximum speed. The idle speed of the Stihl MS 660 chainsaw is 2,500 per minute, the maximum. 13,000 per minute.
Without a tachometer, the quality of carburetor adjustment is determined by ear and by the actual operation of the internal combustion engine chainsaw.
Standard or basic setting
Screws H and L are tightened clockwise to the end, counting the number of revolutions made. Their number is recorded or remembered. If as a result of an unsuccessful carburetor adjustment it is not possible to start the engine, this data will allow you to return to the original factory settings.
Screws H and L are unscrewed counterclockwise, each 1 turn.
The engine is started and checked in operation by ear or by tachometer.
If the revolutions fail (suffocates) when you press the throttle, screw H is unscrewed another 1/4 turn.
If the engine is idling when the throttle is pressed, turn the screw L. 1/4 turn.
Each Stihl MS 660 chainsaw that has worked for some time has its own characteristics, including the compression ratio in the cylinder. Therefore, the setting is individual. By turning 1/4. 1/3 of the H and L screws in one direction or another, they achieve optimal operation of the chainsaw engine at medium and maximum speeds.
Experienced operators in the process may notice that the internal combustion engine of a chainsaw began to work worse. Sometimes it is enough to turn the H and L screws alternately in one direction or another by a small step of 1/5. 1/6 turn and immediately check the result of adjusting the carburetor in real work. This is one of the easiest ways to achieve good customization.
The video material contains information on how to adjust the carburetor of the chainsaw and check the result of the setting.
Idle speed adjustment
Held with an LA screw.
Adjustment is required if the engine stalls at idle. low speed, or the chain scrolls. high speed.
Turns are reduced by tightening the LA screw counterclockwise until the chain stops, then turn back 1 / 5-1 / 4 turns.
Adjustment with the LA screw is almost always required after adjusting the L screw, which also changes the parameters of the engine’s idle operation.
Screws LA and L regulate single turns basically differently. L changes the quality and quantity of fuel supply through calibrated holes. LA is called “retaining” because it affects the throttle position at idle.
Features and differences of carburetor adjustment on a Chinese chainsaw
Carburetors on Chinese chainsaws are mostly copied from the original Stihl design. Therefore, the adjustment algorithm on the original and Chinese versions is almost identical.
Non-original products are worse because they use low-quality alloys, short-lived plastic parts (membranes and gaskets), the sizes of calibrated holes are not precisely maintained, etc.
For educational purposes, we recommend watching an interesting video about the Chinese Stihl МС 660 chainsaw. The chainsaw is completely disassembled, the condition of components, including the carburetor, is assessed. Also, the author of the video disassembles the carburetor and on an example shows how to clean it from dirt.
What is the difference between the Stihl MS 660 carburetor and the Stihl MS 650
Stihl MS 660 and MS 650 belong to the same class of powerful professional chainsaws, close in technical characteristics and design. The Stihl MS 660 has a combustion chamber volume of 91.6 cc with a power of 7.1 hp.
Stihl MS 650. 84.9 cc and 6.7 hp They are almost identical in appearance with carburetors, which are regulated according to one algorithm.
The design differences are that on the carburetors of the Stihl MS 650 chainsaw, calibrated holes in the nozzles and channels of a smaller diameter are used.
Video: Dismantling the Stihl Ms 660 Chainsaw
The original German Stihl MS 660 chainsaw carburetor does not apply to consumable units that must be replaced after a certain service life. The service life for which it is capable may exceed the life of the chainsaw as a whole.
Adjusting the carburetor of the chainsaw ensures efficient operation of the tool at full power with economical fuel consumption. Adjustment must be carried out with a clean fuel and air filter. For a larger number of carburetors, the adjustment is carried out by 3 screws: for maximum and low revs and adjustments idle move.
The H and L screws adjust the gas / air mixture ratio determined by the opening of the throttle carburetor. On a Stihl ms chainsaw, carburetor adjustment is a guide to a Stihl ms 660 chainsaw. When the screws are loosened, the mixture enriches and the revolutions decrease accordingly, when twisted, the mixture becomes leaner. the revolutions increase.
The designation H refers to the maximum speed screw that controls the main jet, L to the minimum speed screw that controls the idle jet. Screw S provides precise speed control idle move. The article describes in detail the adjustment of the carburetor of the chainsaw with three adjusting screws, as well as the adjustment of the carburetor of the Stihl 180 chainsaw with one screw. Sometimes, to simplify the adjustment, the number of carburetor adjusting screws available is reduced.
Setting the carburetor of the chainsaw is divided into two stages. the basic (factory settings), carried out with the engine turned off, and the final, made with the engine running warm. The exact angle of rotation should be taken from the operating instructions for the particular chainsaw. Failure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions could result in engine damage.
How to adjust a chainsaw carburetor. Maintenance chainsaws. Dismantling the carburetor chainsaw Chinese Stihl 660 does not adjust the carburetor on. Part 11
In this video we will answer the question of how to configure or adjust carburetor chainsaw do it yourself
Chinese Stihl IGNITION and carburetor adjustment.
In this video I will show how to set the ignition on chainsaw and how to set up carburetor for benz.
Basic carb adjustment.
The adjusting screws for the maximum H and minimum L revolutions are slowly turned clockwise until they stop, after which they are turned back 2 turns, other settings are also possible
Check and adjustment of idling.
We find the highest idle speed, for this, slowly turn the screw L in different directions. After finding the position of the highest engine speed, turn screw L 1/4 turn counterclockwise. The article describes in detail the adjustment of the carburetor of the chainsaw with three adjusting screws, as well as the adjustment of the carburetor of the Stihl 180 chainsaw. If the chain rotates at idle, screw T or (S) should be turned just clockwise until it stops.
Check and adjustment maximum speed.
Changing the maximum number of revolutions is carried out by screw H. When it is screwed in (clockwise rotation), the speed increases, when turned out, it decreases. Chainsaw engines have the highest rotation speed of 11,500 rpm. up to 15000 rpm Ignition does not provide a higher speed, in addition, it becomes dangerous for the engine. The maximum speed can be determined by interruptions in the ignition. Do-it-yourself carburetor adjustment for the Stihl 250 chainsaw. For the small, compact Stihl 250 chainsaw mechanism, proper carburetor tuning is key. If they come, screw H is slightly turned counterclockwise.
If the engine is not tested for acceleration and maximum speed, then the adjustment of the chainsaw cannot be considered complete.
With a smooth pull of the gas trigger, the engine must confidently and quickly gain speed from idle to maximum (from 2800 rpm to 11500-15000 rpm, depending on the unit). Carburetor adjustment chainsaw Stihl ms 660 video. If rpm is slow, delayed, screw L must be slowly turned out against clockwise, but not more than 1/8 turn.
After adjusting the acceleration and maximum revolutions, you should again check the operation of the saw at idle. the engine should work stably, the chain should not move. Chainsaw setting should be repeated if this condition is not met but with the exception of the basic adjustment step.
Owning a chainsaw in many ways makes life easier even for an amateur, and in some professions this tool is practically indispensable. However, like any relatively complex device, a chainsaw requires periodic maintenance. Due to untimely or poor quality maintenance, as well as the result of both planned and excessive loads, various kinds of malfunctions can occur. For professionals, interruptions or unstable operation of the saw reduce the efficiency of work or can cause a spoiled working day. One of the most common malfunctions is the incorrect setting of the carburetor of the chainsaw, which fails due to unsuccessful attempts to adjust or shift the adjusting screws for other reasons.
Symptoms of malfunctions and breakdowns that require carburetor tuning.
The following symptoms and malfunctions indicate the need for carburetor adjustment:
the engine starts with a strain and stalls almost instantly;
gas consumption is excessively large, the exhaust is too thick, the combustible mixture in the cylinder does not completely burn;
the factory settings of the carburetor of the chainsaw are knocked down (due to vibrations or unsuccessful attempts at regulation);
malfunctions of the air cleaning system, leading to the ingress of particles of debris into the mechanism distributing the fuel mixture;
significant wear of the piston group. the carburetor setting in this case acts as a temporary measure.
It is clear that if dirt enters the fuel system with one setting, the problem cannot be solved. it needs to be flushed. In the case of worn piston overhaul is required. However, in all these cases, carburetor tuning is also performed.
Purpose, design and principle of operation of the carburetor.
A carburetor is needed to prepare the air-fuel mixture to power the engine. If the proportions in this mixture are incorrect, the motor is disrupted. If the proportion is not observed in the direction of increasing the amount of fuel, the mixture is called oversaturated, but if the fuel, on the contrary, is small. poor. Both the one and the other affect the engine’s operation not in the best way.
In different models of chainsaws, carburetors differ in design, but according to the principle of action, they are similar. A stream of air moves through the air channel at high speed. The damper blocking the channel allows you to change the speed of the air stream. Fuel through the sprayer is fed into the channel, where it mixes with the incoming air, forming a fuel-air mixture. The resulting mixture enters the engine.
The pressure in the float chamber, where the fuel is located before mixing, is almost equal to atmospheric. But a vacuum is created in the air channel, due to which the fuel is drawn into the air stream. The more the flap opens, the faster the air moves, and the amount of fuel also increases. the engine speed rises. So simplified, you can imagine the principle of the carburetor.
For efficient, smooth operation of the tool, obtaining maximum returns and at the same time economical fuel consumption, the carburetor of the chainsaw is required. Before adjustment, it is necessary to check the fuel and air filters. they must be clean. On most chainsaws, tuning is done with three screws: idle, high revs, low revs. The following signs indicate the correct carburetor setting:
The chain does not idle.
The engine accelerates smoothly and quickly.
The sound of the running motor is even, similar to the sound of a four-stroke engine.
The carburetor adjustment must be treated with all possible care, because errors in the settings can lead to very serious consequences, up to the occurrence of engine malfunction. If there is no absolute confidence in your abilities, you must contact the service center.
Husqvarna Saw Carb Adjustment.
For the break-in mode, so that the parts receive sufficient lubrication, the carburetor of the Husqvarna chainsaw is configured so that the maximum speed is 600–700 rpm. lower than working. If it is not possible to set the operating maximum frequency according to the tachometer, it is not worth changing the default settings with screw H. Exceeding the maximum speed value by the manufacturer is prohibited. If, after completing the adjustment, when the engine is idling, the saw chain moves, turn the screw T counterclockwise to force it to stop completely.
For precise adjustment, the saw must be warmed up for at least 10 minutes, installed on a flat surface. The tire should be pointing in the opposite direction from the person performing the tuning. At the initial stage, the highest value of the idling frequency should be detected. To do this, screw L is smoothly turned first from left to right, then vice versa. When the maximum revolutions are found experimentally, the screw L must be turned counterclockwise by a value from 1/8 to a quarter of a full revolution.
Idling is adjusted by a jet marked with the letter T. It must be turned from left to right until the chain starts to move. Then feed in the opposite direction until the chain stops spinning. The screw H is considered to be installed correctly if the noise of the saw at full throttle without load remains small. If the exhaust is too smoky and the saw is very noisy, the mixture is too rich. You need to turn the H jet clockwise until the correct sound is set. How to properly adjust the carburetor, you can see the video below.
Chainsaws Partner and Stihl, their adjustment.
In Stihl and Partner chainsaws, the proportion of air and gas in the mixture is set by adjusting screws H and L. When the screws are loosened, the mixture is enriched, rpm increases. Tightening leads to lean mixture and, consequently, lower engine speeds.
Setting the carburetor of the chainsaw Partner for idle is carried out by the T screw (Stihl marks this adjustment with the letters LA). Basic tool setup is done at the factory during the final tests. In most cases, the carburetor is adjusted to supply a slightly more enriched air-fuel mixture than the optimally calculated one. Settings set by the manufacturer must be saved in the first few hours of operation, during the break-in period. After that, finer adjustment can be carried out, although this is not necessary, the saw will work normally at the basic settings.
For fine adjustment of the carburetor, a tachometer is required, in addition, technical documentation is required to carry out work in strict accordance with the requirements of the manufacturer. The best solution is to entrust the jewelry tuning of fuel equipment to specialists.
If you decide to adjust it yourself, you should start with the screw L, then go to the jet H, and then set the idle speed by turning the screw T (or LA if it is a Stihl saw).
By smoothly turning the screw L in both directions, the position is sought at which the idle speed will be maximum. After this point is found, it is necessary to unscrew the screw L 1/4 turn. If the chain continues to move while the engine is idling, the T screw (LA) is slowly unscrewed until the chain stops.
After setting the maximum revolutions with screw H, the value of their frequency is checked by the tachometer. If the maximum speed does not correspond to the values indicated in the documentation, the adjustments are repeated. If at maximum speeds the mixture is too rich, too much smoke comes out of the muffler, when the mixture is poor, the saw makes a screeching sound and the engine gets too hot. The adjustment ends with the installation of idling. the position is considered correct if the motor runs smoothly at minimum speed and the chain is standing. The idle setting can be seen in the video below.
The standard position for carburetors of the “Chinese” is the position of the screw L, in which it is weakened by one and a half turns from the fully clamped position. For screw H, one revolution from the same state. On many videos, screw L is called adjusting the quality of the mixture, and screw H is called its quantity. Idling is regulated in the same manner as described above on a warm engine.
Do-it-yourself generator from an asynchronous motor. How to convert an induction motor into a generator
Making a generator out of an asynchronous motor with your own hands is not difficult, but you will have to try and spend some money on the purchase of components. But for the work you need to know some subtleties. In particular, the operating principles of an asynchronous AC motor, to study the basic elements of its design. The main thing in generator sets is the movement of the magnetic field. It can be provided by rotating the armature using an internal combustion engine or a wind turbine. It is also possible to use alternative sources. the strength of water, steam, etc.
Contacts for connecting to the electrical network.
If you think about it, it may seem that it is very simple to remake the engine into a generator, a photo of which you can examine in detail. But if you look more carefully, it turns out that not everything is so simple, there are plenty of pitfalls.
The stator consists of many metal plates pressed tightly to each other. They are also varnished, in some designs, to give strength, all plates are welded to each other. A wire is wound around the stator, it fits snugly to the core and is isolated from it with cardboard inserts. Bearings are located in the covers, with their help not only the rotor is rotated more easily, but also its centering.
Engine operating principle
The essence of the whole process is that a magnetic field is formed around the stator winding. It is powerful enough, but lacks the main component. the movement. The field is static, motionless, and the main condition in generator sets is rotation, a change in the direction of the lines of force. In the case of the engine, everything is quite simple. there is a rotor, which is made of metal. Inside are several turns of a very thick cable. over, all turns are closed, interconnected.
It turns out the principle of a simple transformer. In short-circuited turns, an EMF is induced, which creates an alternating magnetic field in the surrounding space. It turns out that now everything is there in order for the movement to appear. Under the influence of forces, the rotor of the electric motor rotates. This type of machine has good characteristics, and the design is simple and reliable, there is nothing to break. For this reason, induction motors are widely used in industry. than 95% of all motors in factories are asynchronous. Everyone can make a generator with their own hands, the circuit of which is not very complicated, with minimal knowledge.
Connection to a single-phase network
The true problem is connecting a three-phase electric motor to one. The principle of the generator is slightly different, but to understand it you need to consider the process of the motor. It is necessary to use a tank that will allow you to make a phase shift in the right direction. over, there are several schemes used in practice. In some, the capacitor is used only at the time of startup, in others and during operation. The starting capacity is turned on for a short period of time, until the required speed is reached. It contacts through a switch parallel to one of the windings connected by a triangle circuit.
Such connection options have one significant drawback. a decrease in electric motor power. You can get from him as a maximum 50 percent return. Therefore, with a motor power of 1.5 kW, in the case of power from a single-phase network, you can only get half. 0.75 kW. This imposes certain inconveniences, since it is necessary to use more powerful electric motors.
How to get three phases from one
For more convenient use of electric induction motors, three-phase power is required. But not everyone can conduct such a network to their home, and there are also difficulties with electricity. Therefore, you have to get out, as it turns out. The easiest way to install a frequency converter. But its cost is high, not everyone is able to allocate such an amount for their own garage or workshop. Therefore, you have to use improvised means. You will need an induction motor, capacitor and autotransformer. As the latter, you can use a homemade device made from the core of an electric motor. You can even make a generator drawing to simplify the assembly work.
About 400 turns of wire are required to be wound on it. Its diameter is about 6 square meters. mm For accuracy, ten taps are required to make phase adjustments. You can even say that this is a self-made generator made of an asynchronous motor. Only its main function is transformation, phase shift. One winding is connected to the phase, a capacitor is connected between the other two. The second winding is connected to zero, the third is connected there, only through an autotransformer. Its average output is one phase, the other two are the conclusions of the outlet.
What to consider for conversion to a generator
To make a wind generator out of an (asynchronous!) Motor, you need to consider one main feature. Namely, to create a magnetic field that will make a movement. There are two ways to achieve this. The first is the installation of permanent magnets on the rotor. The second is to make the field winding at anchor. Both methods have both advantages and disadvantages.
You need to decide before starting work what type of current generator you need. If you need a constant, then you need to use diodes for rectification. This will provide light to a small house, as well as power almost any household equipment. Homemade current generators can even be driven by wind. It is only necessary to calculate the windings so that the output does not exceed the voltage. Although stabilization can be done by using the regulators used in automotive technology.
Permanent magnets or field winding?
As mentioned earlier, you can make an excitation winding or carry out the installation of permanent magnets. The disadvantage of the latter method is the high cost of magnets. And the minus of the first is the need to use a brush assembly to provide power. He needs care and timely replacement. The reason is friction, which gradually eats up the surface of the graphite brush. Any car generator, the instructions of which are always attached, has just such a drawback.
To make the field winding, it is enough to change the design of the armature. It should be metal, a wire in varnish insulation must be wound on it. It will also be necessary to establish contacts on one edge of the rotor that are used for power supply. But the plus is that it is possible to stabilize the voltage at the output of the generator. It will be easier to make anchors in the anchor for mounting niode magnets. They create a very strong field, which is enough to generate large values of voltage and current.
How many phases do you need to output?
The easiest way, of course, is to make a generator, the photo of which is shown if the output should be only one phase. But there is a snag. not every design allows this. A home-made generator from an induction motor of this type can be made if all the windings are brought out and not interconnected. Many models of motors have only three outputs, the rest are already connected internally, so to implement the idea you need to completely disassemble it and bring the necessary wires out.
Then they are connected in series and a single-phase voltage can be obtained at the output. But if you need a three-phase, it does not cost to do anything, modernization of the windings is not required. But you still need to take into account the features. It is necessary that a generator made of an asynchronous motor, made by oneself, have a connection of windings according to the star scheme. Here is a slight difference from the option when the machine works as source of movement. Efficient power generation is only possible when the star is turned on.
How to rectify the current?
But if there is a need for direct current, you will need knowledge of circuitry. Need 12 or 24 volts voltage? Nothing is simpler; automotive electronics come to the rescue. But only if the field winding is used as a magnetic field generator. When using permanent magnets, the stabilization procedure is complicated.
The rectifier option is selected based on the number of phases at the generator output. If there is one, then a bridge circuit is sufficient, or even on a single diode (a half-wave rectifier). If there are three phases at the output, then there will be a need to use six semiconductors for rectification. Also, three pieces (one for each phase). to protect against reverse voltage.
How to make one phase out of three
This action does not need to be carried out, since it is simply meaningless. If the generator generates a three-phase alternating voltage, then to power consumers (TV, incandescent lamps, refrigerators, etc.), it is necessary to use only one output. The second is the common, connection point of the windings. As mentioned earlier, it is required to connect them in a star pattern.
Therefore, you have the opportunity to connect consumers to one of the phases. The question is, does it make sense, is it rational to do so? If it is necessary to provide the house exclusively with light, you do not plan to connect any consumers, then it is more reasonable to use low-power LED lamps. They consume a small amount of electricity, so the current generator, which delivers stably 12 Volts, is able to provide the house not only with light. You can easily turn on household appliances that require just such voltage to work.
Wire winding rules
Such information is not always needed, since, in order to simplify the design, the stator winding that is already available is used. But she does not always satisfy the conditions that confront you. For example, if you are constructing a wind generator from a (asynchronous) motor, it is not possible to obtain a minimum number of rotor revolutions. Therefore, the output voltage will be small and insufficient for the operation of household appliances. Therefore, there is a need for small alterations.
The winding must be carried out with a thicker wire in order to obtain a higher value of the output current. To do this, get rid of the old wire. The winding is close to the cardboard frame. When it is carried out, it is required to apply a layer of varnish, soak the wire with it. Just do not forget to dry thoroughly before using the device. To do this, install a 25 or 40 W incandescent lamp in the middle of the stator and leave it for 1-2 days. Do not leave unattended only.
Experimental determination of the required number of turns
To determine how many turns you need for normal operation of the generator, you will need to use many formulas. But you need to know the cross section of the core, the material from which it is made. But this is often simply impossible to determine. Therefore, you have to do experiments. Depending on whether one or three phases you need, the algorithm of the experiment changes. A home-made generator from an induction motor can be made by various methods.
If you plan to make one phase at the output, then reel 10-20 turns of wire evenly around the entire core. Assemble the entire structure and connect to the drive that you will use in the future. Measure the output voltage, divide by the number of turns that are wound. And you get the voltage taken from one turn. To calculate the length of the winding, you need to apply a simple calculation. divide the voltage (necessary) by the obtained value. The calculation of a three-phase generator is carried out similarly.
Making a generator from an asynchronous motor with your own hands is not difficult. The most important thing is to decide which drive you plan to use. If this is a regular gasoline engine, then no problems will arise. Great difficulties will arise if you use a windmill as a drive. The reason is the engine speed, as well as the output voltage, are directly dependent on the strength of the wind, its speed. Therefore, such generators must be calculated in such a way that even at minimum speed, a rated voltage is generated. But at the output it is desirable to have no more than 12 volts. This will prove to be a simpler solution.
Home-made generator from an asynchronous electric motor
In an effort to obtain autonomous sources of electricity, experts have found a way to remake a three-phase asynchronous AC motor into a generator with their own hands. This method has several advantages and individual disadvantages.
Appearance of an induction motor
The section shows the main elements:
cast iron housing with radiator fins for efficient cooling;
the case of a squirrel-cage rotor with fishing line shear magnetic field relative to its axis;
switching contact group in the box (boron), for switching stator windings into star or delta circuits and connecting power wires;
dense strings of copper wires of the stator winding;
steel rotor shaft with groove for securing the pulley with a wedge-shaped key.
A detailed disassembly of the induction motor with an indication of all the details is shown in the figure below.
Detailed disassembly of the induction motor
Advantages of generators converted from asynchronous motors:
ease of assembly of the circuit, the ability not to disassemble the electric motor, not to rewind the windings;
the possibility of rotation of the electric current generator by a wind or hydraulic turbine;
a generator from an induction motor is widely used in motor-generator systems to convert a single-phase 220V AC network into a three-phase network with a voltage of 380V.
the possibility of using a generator, in the field spinning it from internal combustion engines.
As a drawback, it is possible to note the complexity of calculating the capacitance of capacitors connected to the windings, in fact, this is done experimentally.
Therefore, it is difficult to achieve the maximum power of such a generator, there are difficulties with the power supply of electrical installations, which are of great importance inrush current, on circular saws with three-phase AC motors, concrete mixers and other electrical installations.
The principle of operation of the generator
The operation of such a generator is based on the principle of reversibility: "any electrical installation that converts electrical energy into mechanical energy can do the opposite process." The principle of operation of the generators is used, the rotation of the rotor causes EMF and the appearance of an electric current in the stator windings.
Based on this theory, it is obvious that an induction motor can be converted into an electric generator. In order to consciously carry out the reconstruction, it is necessary to understand how the generation process occurs and what is required for this. All motors driven by AC power are considered asynchronous. The stator field moves slightly ahead of the magnetic field of the rotor, pulling it along in the direction of rotation.
In order to obtain the reverse process, generation, the rotor field must be ahead of the motion of the stator magnetic field, in the ideal case, rotate in the opposite direction. This is achieved by including a large capacitor in the power supply network, and groups of capacitors are used to increase the capacity. The capacitor unit is charged, accumulating magnetic energy (an element of the reactive component of alternating current). The capacitor charge is in phase opposite to the current source of the electric motor, so the rotation of the rotor begins to slow down, the stator winding generates a current.
This principle of operation is used practically in electric locomotives, trams, if necessary, smooth braking. By the same principle, some “Kulibins” slow down the rotation of the disk of electric meters, trying to reduce the cost of electricity.
How to practically convert an induction motor into a generator with your own hands?
To connect the capacitors, it is necessary to unscrew the upper boron cover (box), where the contact group is located, switching the contacts of the stator windings and the power wires of the induction motor are connected.
Open boron with contact group
Stator windings can be connected in a "Star" or "Triangle" circuit.
Star and Triangle switching schemes
On the nameplate or in the product passport the possible connection diagrams and motor parameters for various connections are shown. It is indicated:
number of revolutions per minute;
Efficiency and other parameters.
Engine parameters indicated on the nameplate
In a three-phase generator made of an asynchronous electric motor, which they do with their own hands, the capacitors are connected in the same way as a "Triangle" or "Star".
The inclusion option with the "Star" provides a starting process for generating current at lower speeds than when connecting the circuit to the "Triangle". In this case, the voltage at the output of the generator will be slightly lower. Connection according to the "Triangle" scheme provides a slight increase in the output voltage, but requires a higher speed when starting the generator. In a single-phase asynchronous electric motor, one phase-shifting capacitor is connected.
The connection diagram of the capacitors on the generator in the "Triangle"
The capacitors of the KBG-MN model are used, or other brands of at least 400 V non-polar, bipolar electrolytic models are not suitable in this case.
What does the KBG-MN brand capacitor look like
Since in everyday conditions it is practically impossible to calculate the required capacitance of the capacitors for the engine used, a table was compiled experimentally.
Calculation of capacitance for the used engine
In synchronous generators, the generation process is excited on the armature windings from the current source. 90% of induction motors have squirrel-cage rotors, without winding, the excitation is created by the residual static charge in the rotor. It is enough to create an EMF at the initial stage of rotation, which induces current, and recharges the capacitors through the stator windings. Further recharging is already coming from the generated current, the generation process will be continuous while the rotor rotates.
It is recommended to install the load connecting machine to the generator, sockets and capacitors in a separate closed panel. Connect the connecting wires from the boron generator to the shield in a separate insulated cable.
Even when the generator is not working, it is necessary to avoid touching the terminals of the capacitors of the sockets. The charge accumulated by the capacitor remains for a long time and can cause an electric shock. Ground the chassis of all units, motor, generator, control panel.
Installation of the motor-generator system
When installing a generator with a do-it-yourself motor, it should be borne in mind that the indicated number of nominal revolutions of the used asynchronous idle motor is greater.
Belt drive motor generator circuit
On an engine of 900 rpm, when idling, it will be 1230 rpm, in order to get sufficient power at the output of the generator converted from this engine, you need to have 10% more idle speed:
1230 10% = 1353 rpm.
Belt drive is calculated by the formula:
Vg. the required rotation speed of the generator 1353 rpm;
Vm. motor rotation speed of 1200 rpm;
Dm. pulley diameter on the motor 15 cm;
Dg. pulley diameter on the generator.
Having a 1200 rpm motor where the pulley is Ø 15 cm, it remains to calculate only Dg. the pulley diameter on the generator.
Dg = Vm x Dm / Vg = 1200 rpm x 15cm / 1353 rpm = 13.3 cm.
Neodymium Magnet Generator
How to make a generator from an induction motor?
This homemade generator eliminates the use of capacitor units. The source of the magnetic field, which induces the EMF and creates a current in the stator winding, is built on permanent niode magnets. In order to do this yourself, you must sequentially perform the following steps:
Remove the front and rear covers of the induction motor.
Remove the rotor from the stator.
What does an induction motor rotor look like?
The rotor is pumped, the upper layer is removed 2 mm more than the thickness of the magnets. In domestic conditions, it is not always possible to make a bore of the rotor with your own hands, in the absence of turning equipment and skills. You need to turn to specialists in turning workshops.
A template is prepared on a sheet of plain paper for placing round magnets, Ø 10-20 mm, thickness up to 10 mm, with an attractive force of 5-9 kg, per sq / cm, the size depends on the size of the rotor. The template is glued to the surface of the rotor, magnets are placed in strips at an angle of 15. 20 degrees relative to the axis of the rotor, 8 pieces in a strip. The figure below shows that on some rotors there are dark-light strips of displacement of the magnetic field lines relative to its axis.
Installing magnets on the rotor
The rotor with magnets is calculated so that four groups of strips are obtained, in a group of 5 strips, the distance between the groups is 2Ø of the magnet. Gaps in the group 0.5-1Ø of the magnet, this arrangement reduces the sticking force of the rotor to the stator, it must be rotated by two fingers;
The rotor on magnets, made according to the calculated template, is filled with epoxy resin. After it dries a little, the cylindrical part of the rotor is covered with a layer of fiberglass and again impregnated with epoxy resin. This eliminates the emergence of magnets during rotation of the rotor. The top layer on the magnets should not exceed the initial diameter of the rotor, which was before the groove. Otherwise, the rotor will not fall into place or during rotation will rub on the stator winding.
After drying, the rotor can be put in place and close the covers;
To test, the electric generator is necessary. to rotate the rotor with an electric drill, measuring the voltage at the output. The number of revolutions when the desired voltage is reached is measured by the tachometer.
Knowing the required number of revolutions of the generator, the belt drive is calculated according to the method described above.
An interesting application, when an electric generator based on an asynchronous electric motor, is used in the circuit of an electric motor-generator with self-feeding. When part of the power generated by the generator is supplied to an electric motor, which spins it. The remaining energy is spent on the payload. By implementing the principle of self-feeding, it is practically possible for a long time to provide the house with autonomous power supply.
Video. Generator from an induction motor.
For a wide range of electricity consumers, it makes no sense to buy powerful diesel power plants like TEKSAN TJ 303 DW5C with an output power of 303 kVA or 242 kW. Low-power gasoline generators are expensive, the best option is to make do-it-yourself wind generators or a self-feeding motor-generator device.
Using this information, you can assemble the generator yourself, with permanent magnets or capacitors. Such equipment is very useful in country houses, in the field, as an emergency power source, when there is no voltage in industrial networks. A full-fledged house with air conditioning, electric stoves and heating boilers, a powerful circular saw motor they will not pull. Temporarily provide electricity for household appliances of prime necessity can, lighting, refrigerator, TV and others that do not require large capacities.
DIY motor generator
Due to the non-standard method of generation, and the original design of the motor-generator, the modes of the generator and electric motor are combined in one process, and are inextricably linked. As a result, when the load is connected, the interaction of the magnetic fields of the stator and rotor forms a torque that coincides in direction with the moment created by the external drive.
In other words, as the power consumed by the load of the generator increases, the rotor of the motor-generator starts to accelerate, and accordingly, the power consumed by the external drive decreases.
For a long time there have been rumors on the Internet that a generator with a Gram ring anchor was capable of generating more electrical energy than was expended by mechanical energy and this was due to the fact that there was no braking moment under load.
The results of the experiments that led to the invention of the motor generator.
For a long time there have been rumors on the Internet that a generator with a Gram ring anchor was capable of generating more electrical energy than was expended by mechanical energy and this was due to the fact that there was no braking moment under load. This information prompted us to conduct a series of experiments with a ring winding, the results of which we will show on this page. For experiments, 24 pcs., Independent windings with the same number of turns were wound on a toroidal core.
1) Initially, the weight of the windings were connected in series, the findings on the load are located diametrically. In the center of the winding was a permanent magnet with the possibility of rotation.
After the magnet was driven by the drive, the load was connected and the drive speed was measured with a laser tachometer. As one would expect, the speed of the drive motor began to fall. The more power the load consumed, the more the revs fell.
2) For a better understanding of the processes occurring in the winding, instead of a load, a direct current milliammeter was connected. With a slow rotation of the magnet, one can observe what polarity and magnitude of the output signal is in a given position of the magnet.
It can be seen from the figures that when the poles of the magnet are opposite the terminals of the winding (Fig. 4; 8), the current in the winding is 0. When the magnet is in position, when the poles are in the center of the winding, we have the maximum current value (Fig. 2; 6).
3) At the next stage of the experiments, only one half of the winding was used. The magnet also rotated slowly, and the readings of the device were recorded.
The readings of the device completely coincided with the previous experiment (Fig. 1-8).
4) After that, an external drive was connected to the magnet and began to rotate it at maximum speed.
When connecting the load, the drive began to gain momentum!
In other words, during the interaction of the magnet poles and the poles formed in the winding with the magnetic circuit, when passing through the current winding, a torque appeared along the direction of the torque created by the drive motor.
Figure 1, there is strong braking of the drive when the load is connected. Figure 2, when the load is connected, the drive starts to accelerate.
5) In order to understand what is happening, we decided to create a map of the magnetic poles that appear in the windings when current passes through them. For this, a series of experiments was carried out. The windings were connected in different versions, and DC pulses were applied to the ends of the windings. At the same time, a permanent magnet was fixed on the spring, and in turn was located next to each of the 24 windings.
According to the reaction of the magnet (it was repelled or attracted), a map of the manifesting poles was compiled.
From the figures it is seen how the magnetic poles appeared in the windings, with different switching on (yellow rectangles in the figures, this is the neutral zone of the magnetic field).
When changing the polarity of the pulse, the poles, as expected, were reversed, so the different options for turning on the windings are drawn with the same power polarity.
6) Pa at a glance, the results in Figures 1 and 5 are identical.
In a more detailed analysis, it became clear that the distribution of the poles around the circumference and the "size" of the neutral zone are quite different. The force with which the magnet was attracted or repelled from the windings and the magnetic circuit is shown by the gradient filling of the poles.
Video: Chainsaw Speed Adjustment by Laser Tachometer
7) When comparing the data of the experiments described in paragraphs 1 and 4, in addition to the cardinal difference in the response of the drive to the load connection, and a significant difference in the "parameters" of the magnetic poles, other differences were revealed. During both experiments, a voltmeter was turned on in parallel with the load, and an ammeter was turned on in series with the load. If the readings of the instruments from the first experiment (point 1) are taken as 1, then in the second experiment (point 4), the voltmeter reading was also equal to 1. According to the ammeter reading, it was 0.005 from the results of the first experiment.
8) Based on the foregoing in the previous paragraph, it is logical to assume that if in the unused part of the magnetic circuit, to make a non-magnetic (air) gap, then the current strength in the winding should increase.
After the air gap was made, the magnet was again connected to the drive motor, and spun at maximum speed. The current strength actually increased several times, and began to be approximately 0.5 of the results of the experiment under paragraph 1, but at the same time there was a braking moment on the drive. 9) By the method described in paragraph 5, a map of the poles of this design was compiled.
10) Compare the two options
It is not difficult to assume that if you increase the air gap in the magnetic circuit, the geometrical arrangement of the magnetic poles in Figure 2 should approach that of Figure 1. And this, in turn, should lead to the acceleration effect of the drive, which is described in paragraph 4 (when connecting load, instead of braking, an additional moment is created to the drive torque).
11) After the gap in the magnetic circuit was increased to a maximum (to the edges of the winding), when the load was connected instead of braking, the drive again began to gain momentum.
In this case, the map of the poles of the winding with the magnetic circuit looks like this:
Based on the proposed principle of electricity generation, it is possible to design alternators, which, when the electric power in the load increases, do not require increasing the mechanical power of the drive.
The principle of operation of the Generator Motor.
According to the phenomenon of electromagnetic induction, when the magnetic flux passing through a closed circuit changes, an EMF appears in the circuit.
According to the Lenz rule: Induction current arising in a closed conducting circuit has such a direction that the magnetic field created by it counteracts the change in magnetic flux that caused this current. In this case, it does not matter how the magnetic flux moves in relation to the contour (Fig. 1-3).
The method of exciting the EMF in our motor-generator is similar to Figure 3. It allows you to use the Lenz rule to increase the torque on the rotor (inductor).
1) Stator winding 2) Stator magnetic circuit 3) Inductor (rotor) 4) Load 5) Direction of rotation of the rotor 6) Central line of the magnetic field of the poles of the inductor
When you turn on the external drive, the rotor (inductor) begins to rotate. When the beginning of the winding is crossed by a magnetic flux of one of the poles of the inductor, an EMF is induced in the winding.
When the load is connected, the current begins to flow in the winding and the poles of the magnetic field that has arisen in the windings according to the rule of E. X. Lenz are aimed at meeting the magnetic flux that excited them. Since the winding with the core is located along an arc of a circle, the magnetic field of the rotor moves along the turns (arc of a circle) of the winding.
At the same time, at the beginning of the winding, according to the Lenz rule, a pole appears that is identical with the pole of the inductor, and at the other end it is opposite. Since the poles of the same name are repelled, and the opposite ones are attracted, the inductor tends to take a position that corresponds to the action of these forces, which creates an additional moment directed along the rotation of the rotor. The maximum magnetic induction in the winding is achieved at the moment when the central line of the pole of the inductor is opposite the middle of the winding. With further movement of the inductor, the magnetic induction of the winding decreases, and at the moment the center line of the pole of the inductor leaves the winding, it is zero. At the same moment, the beginning of the winding begins to cross the magnetic field of the second pole of the inductor, and according to the rules described above, the edge of the winding from which the first pole begins to move away begins to push it away with increasing force.
Drawings: 1) Zero point, the poles of the inductor (rotor) are symmetrically directed to different edges of the winding in the winding EMF = 0. 2) The central fishing line of the north pole of the magnet (rotor) crossed the beginning of the winding, EMF appeared in the winding, and accordingly the magnetic pole appeared that was the same with the pole of the pathogen (rotor). 3) The rotor pole is located in the center of the winding, and the maximum EMF value in the winding. 4) The pole approaches the end of the winding and the EMF is reduced to a minimum. 5) The next zero point. 6) The central line of the south pole enters the winding and the cycle repeats (7; 8; 1).
GENERATOR FROM THE ENGINE OWN HANDS
From the CD-rom parsing, a number of brushless DC motors have accumulated (these are the ones that spin the disc). And they don’t seem to take up much space, but they often catch my eye. Finally I decided that I had to somehow decide on them.
So, this is a brushless DC motor, the position of the rotor in it is monitored by three Hall sensors, controlled by a driver chip BA6849FP (speed adjustment). In theory, everything is simple, but in practice, impressions can go off scale from just viewing the scarf on which the engine itself is installed.
Therefore, I did not delve into the purpose of the numerous cable conclusions, but simply took and halved the engine, and saw its stator. However, a full review of the circuit board was still unattainable. Realizing that there was no need for sacrifice, I unsoldered the wires (3 pieces) coming from the stator windings to the board, and then folded it up. broke the board in half with the metal mounting plate.
The freed stator flopped onto the table and, again, for educational purposes, was immediately unwound. Now I can report that the motor had three windings (phases) connected by the "star" method, but the option is possible when they can be connected by the "delta" method.
The electric motor certainly did not, but with it there was no shyness before the unknown, for now there was no unknown. In the photo, the conductors form windings and end with conclusions. The connections of the windings are different, but the electrical essence does not undergo large changes. The relatively thick wires of the stator windings suggested that it is possible to get a good current from this engine, if it is used as a generator, and even if it produces a few volts of voltage, then perhaps "happiness"!
I stopped here on such a scheme for removing an electric motor from a motor, however, now it is already a generator that produces electric current. This circuit was assembled and tested with the following ratings of electronic components: C1. 100 μF x 16 V, all six diodes 1N5817.
It would be interesting to try out such a scheme, but so far "your hands have not reached." As a more perfect option. put on the output stabilizer.
For further actions, another electric motor was taken and brought into proper condition for connection and mounting. Gears (gear pair) with a gear ratio of 1: 5 from the Chinese lantern. "bug".
Everything was mounted on a suitable foundation. Important in this operation is to correctly “take” the center-to-center distance of the gears and set their rotation axes in a single spatial plane.
The circuit is assembled, the newly turned generator is ready for the test.
With intensive, but without masochism, rotation of the large gear wheel with the fingers, the voltage easily reaches 1.7 volts (no load).
When connecting a load, 2.5 V and 150 mA light bulbs, the current reaches 120 mA. A light bulb flashes to the floor.
Video. work under load
I will take the liberty of declaring that even this particular engine can be used as a wind generator capable of generating enough electric current to charge one AAA battery with a voltage of 1.2 V and a capacity of up to 1000 mA inclusive. Please pay attention to the photo that shows the installation of gears on the base. On the right side of the large gear wheel and “ask for” the installation of another motor. The kinematic scheme will be as follows: one drive wheel rotates two followers. The possibilities are doubled, it becomes real to assemble a boost converter and even charge mobile phone batteries. I dealt with issues of electricity production Babay.
Electrical Engineering Forum
Discuss the article GENERATOR FROM THE ENGINE OWN HANDS
Homemade generator. Do it yourself
I found an article on the Internet on how to convert a car’s generator into a permanent magnet generator. Is it possible to use this principle and remake the generator with your own hands from an asynchronous electric motor? It is possible that there will be large energy losses, not the arrangement of the coils.
I have an asynchronous motor with a voltage of 110 volts, rpm. 1450, 2.2 amperes, single-phase. With the help of containers, I do not presume to make a home-made generator, since there will be big losses.
It is proposed to use simple engines according to this scheme.
If you change the engine or generator with round magnets from the speakers, do you need to install them in crabs? Crabs are two metal parts, anchored outside the field coils.
If you put magnets on the shaft, the shaft will bypass the magnetic lines of force. How then will the excitement be? The coil is also located on a metal shaft.
If you change the connection of the windings and make a parallel connection, accelerate to rpm above normal values, you get 70 volts. Where to get the mechanism for such revolutions? If you rewind it to reduce speed and lower power, then the power will drop too.
An asynchronous closed-rotor motor is iron, which is flooded with aluminum. You can take a home-made generator from a car with a voltage of 14 volts, a current of 80 amperes. This is not bad data. An engine with an alternating current collector from a vacuum cleaner or a washing machine can be used for a generator. Install magnetization on the stator, remove the DC voltage from the brushes. At the highest EMF, change the angle of the brushes. The coefficient of performance tends to zero. But, better than a synchronous type generator, not invented.
I decided to try a homemade generator. The single-phase asynchronous motor from the baby’s washer twisted with a drill. I connected a 4 microfarad capacitance to it, it turned out 5 volts 30 hertz and a current of 1.5 milliamperes for a short circuit.
Not every electric motor can be used as a generator in this way. There are motors with a steel rotor having a low degree of magnetization on the remainder.
You need to know the difference between electric energy conversion and energy generation. There are several ways to convert 1 phase to 3. One of them is mechanical energy. If the power station is disconnected from the outlet, then the entire conversion disappears.
Where the movement of the wire with increasing speed will come from, is clear. Where the magnetic field will be for obtaining the EMF in the wire is not clear.
It is easy to explain. Due to the mechanism of magnetism that remains, an EMF is formed in the anchor. There is a current in the stator winding, which is closed on the capacitance.
The current has arisen, which means that it gives amplification to the electromotive force on the coils of the rotor shaft. The current that appears gives an amplification of the electromotive force. The stator electric current forms an electromotive force much more. This goes to the establishment of equilibrium of the stator magnetic fluxes and the rotor, as well as additional losses.
The size of the capacitors is calculated so that the voltage at the terminals reaches the nominal value. If it is small, then reduce the capacity, then increase. There were doubts about the old engines, which supposedly are not excited. After accelerating the rotor of the motor or generator, you need to poke quickly in any phase with a small amount of volts. Everything will return to normal. Charge the capacitor to a voltage equal to half the capacity. Switching on is done with a three-pole switch. This applies to a 3-phase motor. Such a scheme is used for generators of passenger carriages, since they have a short-circuited rotor.
A homemade generator can be done in a different way. The stator has a cunning design (has a special design solution), it is possible to adjust the output voltage. I made this type of generator with my own hands in construction. The engine took a power of 7 kW at 900 rpm. I connected the field winding according to the scheme of a 220 V triangle. I started it at 1600 rpm, the capacitors were 3 at 120 uF. They were switched on by a contactor with three poles. The generator acted as a three-phase rectifier. An electric drill with a 1000-watt collector was fed from this rectifier, and a 2200-watt 220 V circular saw and a 2000-watt angle grinder were used.
I had to make a soft start system, another resistor with a shorted phase after 3 seconds.
For motors with manifolds, this is wrong. If you double the rotational frequency, then the capacity will decrease.
The frequency will also increase. The tank circuit was switched off automatically, so as not to use a reactivity torus, not to consume fuel.
During operation, press the contactor stator. Three phases dismantled them out of use. The reason lies in the high clearance and increased dispersion of the pole field.
Special mechanisms with a double cage for a squirrel and slanting eyes for a squirrel. Still, I got 100 volts and a frequency of 30 hertz from the washing machine’s motor, the 15-watt lamp does not want to burn. Very weak power. It is necessary to take the motor stronger, or put more capacitors.
Under the cars, a generator with a squirrel-cage rotor is used. Its mechanism comes from the gearbox and the belt drive. Rotational speed 300 rpm. It is located as an additional load generator.
You can design a homemade generator, a gasoline power station.
Instead of a generator, use a 3-phase asynchronous motor of 1.5 kW at 900 rpm. Italian electric motor, can be connected by a triangle and a star. First, I put the motor on the base with a DC motor, attached to the coupling. He began to turn the engine at 1100 rpm. A voltage of 250 volts appeared in phases. I connected a 1000-watt light bulb, the voltage immediately dropped to 150 volts. This is probably from phase imbalance. A separate load must be included for each phase. Three light bulbs of 300 watts will not be able to reduce the voltage to 200 volts, theoretically. You can put a capacitor more.
Engine revolutions must be done more, do not reduce under load, then the mains supply will be constant.
Significant power is needed, the auto-generator will not give such power. If you rewind a large KAMAZ, then 220 V will not come out of it, since the magnetic circuit will be oversaturated. It was designed at 24 volts.
Today I was going to try to connect the load through a 3-phase power supply (rectifier). In the garages, the lights were turned off, it did not work. In the city of power engineers systematically turn off the light, so you need to make a constant source of electricity. For electric welding, there is a hitch, hooked to the tractor. To connect an electric tool, you need a constant voltage source of 220 V. There was an idea to design a home-made generator with your own hands, and an inverter to it, but you can not work on batteries for a long time.
Recently turned on the electricity. I connected an induction motor from Italy. I put it with the chainsaw motor on the frame, twisted the shafts together, put the rubber coupling. The coils are connected by a star circuit, the capacitors are delta, 15 microfarads each. When I started the motors, the power output failed. I connected a capacitor charged to the phases, the voltage appeared. The engine gave out its power of 1.5 kW. At the same time, the supply voltage dropped to 240 volts, at idle it was 255 volts. The sander worked fine for him at 950 watts.
I tried to increase the engine speed, but the excitation does not work. After the capacitor contacts the phase, the voltage appears immediately. I will try to put another engine.
What designs of systems abroad are made for power plants? On 1-phase, it is clear that the rotor owns the winding, there is no phase imbalance, because it is one phase. In 3-phase there is a system that provides power adjustment when connecting motors with the highest load to it. You can also connect an inverter for welding.
On the weekend I wanted to make a home-made generator with my own hands with an asynchronous motor connected. A successful attempt to make a home-made generator turned out to be the connection of an old engine with a cast iron housing of 1 kW and 950 revolutions. The motor is energized normally, with a single capacity of 40 microfarads. And I installed three tanks and connected them with a star. This was enough to start the electric drill, an angle grinder. I wanted to get a voltage output in one phase. For this, I connected three diodes, a half-bridge. The fluorescent lamps burned out for lighting, and the bags in the garage burnt out. I will wind the transformer in three phases.
DIY asynchronous motor generator
The desire to develop an autonomous source for the production of electricity made it possible to build a generator from a conventional asynchronous motor. Development is distinguished by reliability and relative simplicity.
Types and description of asynchronous motor
There are two types of motors:
The device is used in various industries:
Like a conventional engine for wind power plants.
For your own independent catering apartment or house.
Like small hydropower stations.
As an alternative inverter type of generator (welding).
To create an uninterrupted AC power system.
Advantages and disadvantages of the generator
The positive qualities of development include:
Simple and quick assembly with the ability to avoid disassembling the motor and rewinding the winding.
The ability to carry out the rotation of an electric current using a wind or hydraulic turbine.
The use of the device in motor-generator systems to convert a single-phase network (220V) to a three-phase (380 V).
The ability to use the development in places where there is no electricity, using an internal combustion engine for promotion.
The difficulty of calculating the capacity of the condensate, which is connected to the windings.
It is difficult to reach the maximum power mark that self-development is capable of.
Homemade asynchronous generator
Principle of operation
The generator generates electrical energy, provided that the number of revolutions of the rotor is slightly higher than the synchronous speed. The simplest type produces about 1800 rpm, given that the level of its synchronous speed becomes 1500 revolutions.
Its principle of operation is based on the conversion of mechanical energy into electricity. It is possible to force the rotor to rotate and produce electricity using strong torque. Ideally, a constant idle that is able to maintain the same speed.
All types of motors operating on a constant current are called asynchronous. They have a magnetic field of the stator spinning rather than the field of the rotor, respectively directing it in the direction of its movement. To change the electric motor to a functioning generator, it will be necessary to increase the speed of movement of the rotor so that it does not follow the magnetic field of the stator, but begins to move in the opposite direction.
You can get a similar result by connecting the device to the mains, a capacitor with a large capacity, or a whole group of capacitors. They charge and store energy from magnetic fields. The capacitor phase has a charge that is opposite to the motor current source, due to which the rotor slows down, and the current production by the stator winding begins.
The scheme is very simple and does not require special knowledge and skills. If you start development without connecting it to the network, rotation will begin and, after reaching the synchronous frequency, the stator winding will begin to generate electrical energy.
By attaching a special battery of several capacitors (C) to its terminals, it is possible to obtain a leading capacitive current, which will create magnetization. Capacitor capacitance must be above critical designation C0, which depends on the size and characteristics of the generator.
In this situation, a self-starting process takes place, and a system with a symmetric three-phase voltage is mounted on the stator winding. The indicator of the generated current directly depends on the capacitance for the capacitors, as well as the characteristics of the machine.
The simplest scheme for starting an induction motor
Do it yourself
To convert an electric motor into a working generator, you need to use non-polar capacitor banks, so it is better not to use electrolytic capacitors.
In a three-phase motor, you can connect a capacitor according to the following schemes:
"Star". makes it possible to conduct generation at a lower number of revolutions, but with a lower output voltage;
"Triangle". comes into operation with a large number of revolutions, respectively, produces more voltage.
You can create your own device from a single-phase motor, but provided that it is equipped with a short-circuit rotor. To start development, you should use a phase-shifting capacitor. A single-phase collector-type motor is not suitable for alteration.
Appearance of a simple wind generator using an asynchronous motor
Creating your own generator is easy, the main thing is to have all the necessary elements:
A tachogenerator (a device for measuring current) or a tachometer.
Capacitance under capacitors.
Since it will be necessary to reconfigure the generator in such a way that the rotation speed exceeds the engine speed, initially it is necessary to connect the engine to the mains and start it. Then, using the tachometer, determine the speed of its rotation.
Having learned the speed, it is necessary to add another 10% to the designation obtained. For example, the technical indicator of the motor is 1000 rpm, then the generator should have about 1100 rpm (10000.1% = 100, 1000100 = 1100 rpm).
You should choose a capacity for capacitors. To determine the size, use the data in the table.
Important! If the capacity is large, the generator will begin to heat up.
Select the appropriate capacitors that can provide the required speed of rotation. Be careful when installing.
Important! All capacitors must be insulated with a special coating.
The device is ready and can be used as source of electricity.
Important! A device with a squirrel-cage rotor generates a high voltage, so if a 220V rating is needed, a step-down transformer should be additionally installed.
The magnetic generator has several differences. For example, it does not need to install capacitor banks. The magnetic field that will create electricity in the stator winding is created due to niode magnets.
Features of creating a generator:
It is necessary to unscrew both engine covers.
It will be necessary to eliminate the rotor.
The rotor must be pierced by removing the top layer of the desired thickness (magnet thickness 2mm). It is extremely difficult to independently perform this procedure without turning equipment, so you should contact a turning service.
Make a template for round magnets on a piece of paper, Based on the parameters, the diameter is 10–20 mm, the thickness is about 10 mm, and the swearing force is about 5–9 kg per cm 2. The size should be selected depending on the dimensions of the rotor. Then attach the created template to the rotor and place the magnets with poles and at an angle of 15-20 0 to the axis of the rotor. The approximate number of magnets in one strip is about 8 pieces.
You should get 4 groups of strips, each of 5 strips. Between groups, a distance of 2 diameters of the magnet should be maintained, and between the strips in the group, 0.5-1 diameter of the magnet. Due to this arrangement, the rotor will not stick to the stator.
Having installed all the magnets, it is necessary to fill the rotor with a special epoxy resin. Once it dries, cover the cylindrical element with fiberglass and impregnate with resin again. Such fastening will allow the escape of magnets at the time of movement. Make sure that the diameter at the rotor is the same as before the groove, so that during installation it does not rub against the stator winding.
Having dried the rotor, it can be installed in place and screw on both engine covers.
To test. To start the generator, you need to turn the rotor using an electric drill, and at the output, measure the received current with a tachometer.
Remodel or not
To determine whether the operation of a self-made generator is effective, one should calculate how justified the efforts to transform the device are.
This is not to say that the device is very simple. The induction motor is not inferior in complexity to a synchronous generator. The only difference is the lack of an electric circuit to initiate the work, but it is replaced by a capacitor bank, which does not simplify the device.
The advantage of capacitors is that they do not require additional maintenance, and they receive energy from the magnetic field of the rotor or the generated electric current. From this we can say that the only plus from this development is the lack of need for maintenance.
Another positive quality is the effect of the clear factor. It consists in the absence of higher harmonics in the generated current, that is, the lower its indicator, the less energy is spent on heating, the magnetic field and other moments. For a three-phase electric motor, this figure is about 2%, while for synchronous machines it is at least 15%. Unfortunately, taking into account the indicator in everyday life when different types of electrical appliances are included in the network is unrealistic.
Other indicators and development properties are negative. He is not able to provide the rated industrial frequency of the voltage produced. Therefore, the device is used together with rectifier machines, as well as for charging the battery.
The generator is sensitive to the slightest drops in electricity. In industrial developments, a battery is used to excite, and in a home-made version, part of the energy goes to a capacitor bank. In the case when the load on the generator is above nominal, it does not have enough electricity to recharge, and it stops. In some cases, capacitive batteries are used that change their dynamic volume depending on the load.
Unfortunately, it is unrealistic to calculate, take into account and compensate for changes in current that occur by chance, so the device is characterized by unstable operation.
The device is very dangerous, therefore it is not recommended to use a voltage of 380 V, unless in emergency.
According to precautionary measures and safety measures it is necessary to establish additional grounding.
Watch out for thermal development. He is not inherent to work at idle. To reduce the thermal effect, a capacitor should be well selected.
Correctly calculate the power of the generated electrical voltage. For example, when only one phase functions in a three-phase generator, it means that power is 1/3 of the total, and if two phases work, 2/3, respectively.
It is possible to indirectly control the frequency of unstable current. When the device is idling, the output voltage begins to increase, and exceeds the industrial (220 / 380V) by 4-6%.
It is best to isolate development.
Homemade invention should be equipped with a tachometer and voltmeter, to fix his work.
It is advisable to provide special buttons to turn on and off the mechanism.
The level of efficiency will be reduced by 30-50%, this phenomenon is inevitable.
How to make a generator from an induction motor?
An asynchronous or induction type generator is a special kind of device that uses alternating current and has the ability to reproduce electricity. The main feature is the performance of rather quick turns that the rotor makes, in terms of the speed of rotation of this element it is significantly superior to the synchronous variety.
One of the main advantages is the ability to use this device without significant circuit transformations or lengthy tuning.
A single-phase type of induction generator can be connected by supplying the necessary voltage to it, for this it will need to be connected to a power source. However, a number of models produce self-excitation; this ability allows them to function in a mode independent of any external sources.
This is accomplished by sequentially bringing the capacitors to working condition.
Asynchronous motor generator circuit
generator circuit based on an induction motor
In virtually any electric type machine designed as a generator, there are 2 different active windings, without which the device cannot function:
Field winding, which is located on a special anchor.
Stator winding, which is responsible for the formation of electric current, this process occurs inside it.
In order to visualize and more accurately understand all the processes that occur during the operation of the generator, the most optimal option would be to consider in more detail the scheme of its operation:
Voltage, which is supplied from a battery or any other source creates a magnetic field in the anchor winding.
Rotate device elements together with the magnetic field can be implemented in various ways, including manually.
A magnetic field, rotating at a certain speed generates electromagnetic induction, due to which an electric current appears in the winding.
The vast majority of schemes used today it does not have the ability to provide voltage anchor winding, this is due to the presence of a squirrel-cage rotor in the design. Therefore, regardless of the speed and time of rotation of the shaft, the supply terminals of the device will still be de-energized.
When remaking the engine into a generator, the independent creation of a moving magnetic field is one of the basic and mandatory conditions.
Before you take any action to remake the induction motorin the generator, you need to understand the device of this machine, which is as follows:
Stator, which is equipped with a network winding with 3 phases, placed on its working surface.
Winding It is organized in such a way that it resembles a star in its shape: 3 initial elements are connected to each other, and 3 opposite sides are connected to slip rings, which do not have any common ground between them.
Contact rings have reliable fasteners to the rotor shaft.
In construction there are special brushes that do not make any independent movements, but contribute to the inclusion of a rheostat with three phases. This allows you to change the resistance parameters of the winding located on the rotor.
Often, in the internal device there is such an element as an automatic short circuit, necessary in order to short-circuit the winding and stop the rheostat, which is in working condition.
Another additional element of the device generator may be a special device that spreads the brushes and slip rings at the moment when they pass the stage of closure. Such a measure contributes to a significant reduction in friction losses.
Making a generator out of an engine
In fact, any asynchronous electric motor can be remade with its own hands into a device that functions as a generator, which can then be used in everyday life. For this purpose, even an engine taken from an old-style washing machine or any other household equipment may be suitable.
In order for this process to be successfully implemented, it is recommended to adhere to the following algorithm of actions:
Remove engine core layer, thanks to which a depression will be formed in its structure. This can be done on a lathe, it is recommended to remove 2 mm. around the core and make additional holes with a depth of about 5 mm.
Take off dimensions from the resulting rotor, and then from the tin material to make a template in the form of a strip that will correspond to the dimensions of the device.
Install in the resulting free space neodymium magnets, which must be purchased in advance. Each pole will require at least 8 magnetic elements.
Magnet fixing can be carried out using universal superglue, but it must be borne in mind that when approaching the surface of the rotor they will change their position, so they must be firmly held by hands until each element adheres. It is further recommended that safety glasses be used during this process to avoid splashing glue into the eyes.
Rotor wrap plain paper and scotch tape, which will be required to fix it.
The end part of the rotor to fill with plasticine, which will ensure the sealing of the device.
After committed actions it is necessary to process free cavities between the magnetic elements. To do this, the remaining space between the magnets must be filled with epoxy. It will be most convenient to cut a special hole in the shell, transform it into a neck and seal the borders with plasticine. Resin can be poured inside.
Wait until it solidifies. filled resin, after which the protective paper cover can be removed.
Rotor must be locked with a machine or vice so that it can be processed, which consists in grinding the surface. For these purposes, you can use sandpaper with an average grain size parameter.
Determine state and the purpose of the wires leaving the engine. Two should lead to a working winding, the rest can be cut so as not to get confused in the future.
Sometimes the rotation process is pretty bad, most often the cause is old worn and taut bearings, in which case they can be replaced with new ones.
Generator rectifier can be assembled from special silicon diodes that are designed specifically for these purposes. Also, you will need a controller to charge, virtually all modern models are suitable.
After all these actions are completed, the process can be considered completed, the induction motor was converted into a generator of the same type.
Evaluation of the level of effectiveness. is it profitable?
Generation of electric current by an electric motor is quite real and realizable in practice, the main question is how profitable is this?
The comparison is carried out primarily with a synchronous version of a similar device, in which there is no electric excitation circuit, but despite this fact, its device and design are not simpler.
This is due to the presence of a capacitor bank, which is an extremely technically complex element that is not available in an asynchronous generator.
The main advantage of an asynchronous device is that the available capacitors do not require any maintenance, since all the energy is transferred from the magnetic field of the rotor and the current that is generated during the operation of the generator.
The electric current created during operation does not actually have higher harmonics, which is another significant advantage.
Asynchronous devices do not have other advantages besides the above, but they have a number of significant drawbacks:
During their operation there is no possibility to ensure the rated industrial parameters of the electric current generated by the generator.
High sensitivity even to the smallest differences in workload parameters.
If the permissible generator loads are exceeded, there will be a shortage of electricity, after which recharging will become impossible and the generation process will be stopped. To eliminate this drawback, often use batteries with significant capacity, which have the ability to change their volume depending on the magnitude of the loads.
The electric current generated by an asynchronous generator is subject to frequent changes, the nature of which is unknown, it is random in nature and can not be explained by scientific arguments.
The impossibility of accounting and appropriate compensation for such changes is explained by the fact that such devices have not gained popularity and are not widely used in the most serious industries or domestic affairs.
The functioning of an induction motor as a generator
In accordance with the principles by which all similar machines operate, the operation of an induction motor after conversion to a generator occurs as follows:
After connecting the capacitors to the terminals, on the winding of stators a number of processes take place. In particular, in the winding a forward current movement begins, which creates the magnetization effect.
Only with matching capacitors parameters of the required capacity, the device is self-excited. This contributes to the emergence of a symmetrical voltage system with 3 phases on the stator winding.
The value of the total voltage will depend on the technical capabilities of the machine used, as well as the capabilities of the capacitors used.
Thanks to the described actions, the process of converting a squirrel-cage induction motor to a generator with similar characteristics occurs.
In everyday life and in production, such generators are widely used in various fields and areas, but they are most in demand for performing the following functions:
Use as engines for wind farms, this is one of the most popular features. Many people make asynchronous generators on their own to use them for this purpose.
Work as a hydroelectric power station with a small output.
Catering and electricity from a city apartment, private country house, or separate household equipment.
Basic functions welding generator.
Uninterrupted equipment alternating current of individual consumers.
Tips for making and operating
It is necessary to have certain skills and knowledge not only in the manufacture, but also in the operation of such machines, the following tips can help:
Any kind of asynchronous generators regardless of the sphere in which they are used, is a dangerous device, for this reason it is recommended to isolate it.
In the process of manufacturing the device it is necessary to think over the installation of measuring instruments, since it will be necessary to obtain data on its functioning and operating parameters.
Special buttons, with which you can control the device, greatly facilitates the operation process.
Grounding is a mandatory requirement that must be implemented before the operation of the generator.
During work, The efficiency of an asynchronous device can periodically decrease by 30-50%, it is not possible to overcome the occurrence of this problem, since this process is an integral part of energy conversion.
What oil to use for Champion chainsaw. Chainsaw oil. Which one to use?
Questions and answers
What oil to use for Champion chainsaw. Chainsaw oil. Which one to use?
What oil to use for Champion chainsaw. Chainsaw oil. Which one to use?
What kind of oil is correct to put in a chainsaw to lubricate the chain?
Chainsaws, as a rule, have a two-stroke or four-stroke engine and two tanks, one of which is filled with fuel, that is, gasoline, and the second should be filled with oil, which lubricates the saw chain. The gas tank in volume may include 0.3-1.0 l of the consistency of fuel with oil, and the oil tank has a smaller volume of almost 2 times.
It is not recommended to use recycled oil to lubricate the chainsaw chain.
How to use a chainsaw?
Such a ratio of oil and fuel volumes is used in which the lubricant will be consumed when the chain is lubricated at the same time, namely after 30-45 minutes of the time that has been worked out, provided that the chainsaw is fully loaded. If the engine is two-stroke, then it most requires the use of a pre-prepared fuel mixture to lubricate the circuit.
Chainsaw electronic ignition circuit.
The specific operation of the saw is determined by seasonality. When a two-stroke engine operates, its cycle differs from the cycle of a four-stroke engine of a tool. The use of a mixture of gasoline and oil to lubricate some structural elements of a chainsaw, such as a piston or shaft, is one of the main points. Otherwise, an attempt to use a tool that runs on only one gasoline, and not on oil, will not lead to a positive result, but only to damage the tool.
You can use a domestic tool with the use of grade 76 gasoline simultaneously with oil, the ratio of which with fuel is taken to be 1/25, that is, in an amount of 4%. If you use a saw model from foreign manufacturers, you need a brand of gasoline 92 with branded oils.
These oils are created by manufacturers of chainsaws, while the ratio in the required consistencies is 2.5%, 1:40. Two-stroke engines can be installed on chainsaws of foreign manufacture, but it must be borne in mind that gasoline needs to be refined, without any impurities.
Chainsaw electronic ignition circuit.
The choice of oil per engine is possible, the number of cycles of which can reach 8.5 thousand / min. In chainsaws from foreign manufacturers, cycles are provided that can achieve power in the range from 11 to 14 thousand / min. The use of these lubricants reduces the presence of motor resources of the saw by 7-10%, which boils down to the following: for all types of household and special chainsaws, the use of "Zhiguli" oils is suitable.
If the tool is used at a low temperature, even the right choice of constituent lubricants does not bring the quality of the oil mixed with the fuel to a positive result, that is, crystallization processes and viscosity increase. With all this, the tool should be adapted to the application, taking into account the maximum warming up of the engine.
If you follow the recommendations, then the chainsaw must be warmed up before use, especially if the place of its storage was a cold room that is not heated. This will prevent a negative result if condensation occurs in the saw mechanism.
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What oil is used in a chainsaw?
Experienced experts recommend using one share of the fuel mixture for two weeks.
The period of use of the chainsaw is determined by the type of lubricant used when working with inventory. A two-stroke engine saw and fuel tank are used in accordance with the instructions. Often the fuel mixture is made by mixing gasoline and oil, which are combined in a certain ratio. This information must be indicated by the manufacturer in the relevant instructions.
If the inventory is of domestic manufacture, then gasoline bearing the AI-76 brand, as well as ordinary motorcycle oil, is usually used. The proportions in which gasoline and oil are taken are 1/25. If chainsaws of foreign manufacture are used, then the requirements will be different. They are reduced to the use of gasoline with an octane rating of 95 and 92, while a special oil is used that is suitable for these grades of fuel.
Mixes oil with fuel in a ratio of 1/40. Suitable is the use of volumetric cans that help greatly simplify the process of manufacturing the fuel mixture. The use of foreign-made tools requires appropriate refueling with motorcycle oils.
It should be taken into account that certain types of foreign-made lubricants can be used by working with chainsaws, the cycle of which is 8.5 thousand per minute. Mostly used tool with a vibration cycle in the range of 11-14 thousand / min. The use of foreign oils in such saws is the reason for the decrease in motor resources by an average of 8%. If the chainsaw operates at full power, then the lubricant is consumed half an hour after it is turned on.
Experienced professionals recommend using one share of the fuel mixture for two weeks, because otherwise a chemical reaction occurs. At the same time, oil can lose all its properties, and gasoline is capable of oxidation. As a result, clogging of parts, overheating of the motor and jamming of the CPG occurs. The type of oil poured into the tool must be carefully monitored.
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What kind of oil is correct to fill in the chainsaw tank?
The scheme of a two-stroke engine.
When lubricating the chains of a chainsaw, the composition is poured into a special container. Its use helps to reduce the frictional force that arises between the tire and chain links. The use of special oils with a viscous consistency to lubricate the chain of the chainsaw will give positive results, ensure a long service life of the inventory. In the absence of this substance, oil is suitable.
Choosing a suitable oil that allows you to lubricate the chain with quality, should be depending on the time of year when it will be used. So, in the summer, mineral oils are best suited, the disadvantage of which is the crystallization of the structure of the substance at low temperatures. Therefore, in winter, experts recommend the use of oils with special additives that are synthetic, which makes them less viscous. This helps to use the saw at low temperatures, in other words up to 40 ° C.
The use of semisynthetics seems to be a more suitable option when using a saw at a moderate temperature, fluctuating in the interval. 30. 25 ° C.
Pouring processed engine oils into the tank to lubricate the chainsaw chain is not recommended categorically.
Oil supply for chain lubrication.
Such oils can be highly oxidized, and this is due to the presence of impurities in them, which may cause damage to the chainsaw. However, sometimes during operation of the saws, gear or motor oils are poured into them, which is acceptable.
Motor oils suitable not only for two-stroke, but also for four-stroke engines are made on the basis of base oil and additional substances, that is, additives that can be different. As solvents, various solvents can be used to improve the process of mixing oils and fuels, their pumpability, and a possible spraying method.
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Conditions for using oils in chainsaws
Synthetic motor oil test results table.
Chainsaws operating at high temperatures can function efficiently due to oils equipped with iron additives. Their main property is to provide lubrication at elevated temperatures.
Important! Experienced craftsmen do not recommend using a tool that has been idling for a long time.
With this operation of the motor, it is not run-in. The use of a chainsaw with a four-stroke engine with oil suitable for it, with its complete combustion, is not associated with special requirements.
Solvent content in push-pull oils can be up to 20%. The result of their use can be negative, since with increasing temperature the quality of the chain lubricant decreases. If the chainsaw is equipped with a two-stroke engine, the oil should not be used with the maximum number of additives, since they contribute to an increase in the degree of viscosity.
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Choice of oil with different engine types for chainsaws
Scheme of the interaction of fuel and air flow carburetor chainsaw.
In order to lubricate the motors of a tool with a two-stroke engine, a combustible fuel solution is used, since oil is not used in the fuel composition. If we take into account the differences between the types of oils used in various motors, for example four-stroke or two-stroke, there is a difference in the methods of their consumption.
The high-quality operation of a chainsaw with a four-stroke engine is due to the lack of oil in the combustion chamber, because different types of engines have different requirements. For example, two-stroke engines are usually filled with oil, during the combustion of which carbon deposits do not occur as a result.
A four-stroke chainsaw can work for a long time as a result of oil lubrication, which does not have special requirements for its complete combustion. Additives can be selected without taking into account the ash content, the level of which should be more than 2%.
If the chainsaw is equipped with a two-stroke engine, which operates at the expense of oils suitable for four-stroke engines, as a result, ash settles on the walls in the combustion chamber. Ash can remain on the surface of the piston, and an abrasive powder also acts on the saw piston by the principle of sandpaper.
Checks the operation of the chain lubrication system.
Erasing parts of the design of the toolkit is being carried out and the period of its application is reduced. The presence of settled soot at the end of the use of oil causes harm to the instrument, which is capable of losing the quality of work due to loss of power by its motor.
If soot is deposited in the exhaust openings, then their cross-sectional area is reduced, which is associated with difficulties during exhaust gas output and power loss. If ash is deposited on the piston of the cylinder, as well as on its head, then detonation and drip ignition occur. All this leads to a decrease in saw power, which reduces its useful life.
Two types of oil are made for chainsaws, one of which is suitable to create a fuel mixture. At the same time, brand 92 gasoline is taken in a ratio of 50 parts of gasoline to 1 part of oil (Super 95), used when operating a two-stroke engine, respectively. Different manufacturers of chainsaws produce oil for them under different brands, of which there are a sufficient number. So, 5 liters of gasoline are usually mixed with 100 ml of the substance. If you apply one that is not suitable for the model of the tool used, this will lead to damage to the saw and soon wear.
Unsuitable oil, poured into the saw, can simply settle in the cylinder on its walls if it enters the combustion chamber, but does not have time to burn. This approach to the use of chainsaws leads to a slower reduction in the life of the tool or its trimmer. If the total service life of the chainsaw is 400 hours, then this figure can drop to 200 hours.
Lubricate the saw chain with a special adhesive oil, which must be poured into the saw tank provided for this purpose. After turning on the saw, it is pumped up by a special pump in automatic mode, after which the chain is lubricated.
In a can for a chainsaw, which includes two containers, you can pour 6 liters of fuel mixture and 2.5 liters of oil. By changing this ratio, pour 5 liters of fuel mixture and 3 liters of adhesive oil, the flow rate of which will be 1 liter per fuel mixture with a volume of 1.6-2.4 liters.
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Recommendations on the use of special oils for chainsaw chains
Centrifugal clutch chainsaw.
The lubrication of the saw bar with a chain should be done with special oil, other types of this substance are not suitable for this purpose. If used, the oil pump may fail, as it is equipped with a self-lubricating system for high-quality operation. To use the used, including filtered, oil compositions in a chainsaw means violating the ability of the tool to high revolutions.
The chain requires appropriate storage, which is associated with immersion in oil. If the saw bar is worn, then do not put a new chain on it. It is important to have a chain in stock, and it is best to purchase several chains at once. The optimal number of chains in stock is 4 pieces, which allows you to work with them in turn and periodically grind each of them. This ensures a reduced level of wear on each component, i.e. the tire, chain and drive sprocket.
Professionals recommend not tweaking the chain, but tweaking it using special tools to sharpen the chain. Correction is done every 2 or 3 fillings of the fuel mixture into the saw tank.
One proposed work with the tool requires the preparation of a certain amount of the fuel mixture. However, it is strictly forbidden to operate a chainsaw without oil poured into the tank. When refueling the saw with fuel, it is necessary to immediately provide for the required amount with which to lubricate the tire with the chain. The main thing is that its composition is cleaned, without the content of impurities, water, sand, garbage, etc.
Refueling of tanks should be carried out simultaneously, that is, oil is poured together with the fuel mixture into different tanks. Air temperature should be considered. If the temperature is lower than 20 ° C, then it must be diluted with dehydrated kerosene, taking into account a ratio of 4: 1, that is, 1 part of kerosene is added to 4 parts. If there is an adjustment for oil supply, it is maximized.
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How to dilute the oil in the fuel correctly?
Chainsaw position at startup.
Dilute oil in gasoline, following a certain sequence. Previously, it is poured into a canister or other container, after which the appropriate gasoline used in a particular chainsaw is added to the same container. The volume of gasoline should be about half of the required amount of fuel.
Shaking the mixture thoroughly and stirring it, add the second part of the prepared fuel there. Pour the mixture into the fuel tank after thoroughly shaking the mixture in the original tank. Pour the mixture carefully, trying not to spill it.
Filling fuel to the very top of the tank is not recommended. Usually leave a little free space on top in the tank. A 0.5 L fuel tank provides a tool power of 2 kW, i.e. 2.7 hp. Fuel is consumed in an amount of 1.2 l / h, so the fuel mixture can last for work for 30-40 minutes with a maximum degree of load on the tool. The greater the power of the chainsaw, the smaller the volume of its fuel tank.
It is recommended to lubricate the chainsaw chain only with special oils, the quality of which is guaranteed by the manufacturer of the tool itself. Chainsaw manufacturers are engaged in the manufacture of special oils containing adhesive additives that ensure high-quality lubrication of the chain due to the long-term retention of the lubricating composition on it.
It’s better not to save on the purchase of oil, acquiring its cheaper types, and immediately take the adhesive so that the saw chains and the tool itself do not fail. In this way, the damage caused can be reduced, since the cost of the oil pump, chainsaw chains and tires is a much smaller amount after their failure.
Among the other disadvantages of using oil that is not adhesive is the leakage from the tank of a non-working tool. Due to the mismatch of the viscosity of an improper lubricant with the standards during pumping, it does not arrive in the quantity that is necessary, that is, more or less. As a result, the use of oils and fuels in equal amounts will be wrong.
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How should the chain lubrication system work?
The fuel tanks of the saws are selected according to the volume, taking into account a certain ratio, which allows leaving a tank with a small amount of oil at maximum fuel output. Correct carburetor adjustment determines the amount of fuel used for a chainsaw, otherwise if it is not correct, then the fuel runs out very quickly.
With a slow decrease in the amount of oil during the operation of the saw, in the absence of its reduction, the chain lubrication process is impaired, and the conductivity of the channels where the movement of the lubricant occurs is reduced. It is necessary not only to identify, but also to eliminate all malfunctions. You can measure the performance of the oil pump with the adjusting screw manually.
The correct operation of the lubrication system can be checked by holding the tire whose chain rotates to the illuminated surface. If oil spray appears on this surface, the system is configured correctly. The amount of oil consumed by the chain itself is provided depending on the specific situation.
It is necessary to make the cut of the greatest length according to the hard or dry appearance of the wood with the greatest amount of lubricant, which also applies to the cutting of thick types of bark. If you want to make a cut, the length of which is small, then the presence of wet and soft wood will require the least amount of lubricant.
One of the reasons for the cutting headset to become very hot with subsequent smoke may be the lack of sufficient chain lubrication.
Due to excessive heat, the chain may be pinched in the groove of the tire. The reason for the appearance of smoke can also relate to those cases when the chain is improperly sharpened, dull, or if this happened with a strong chain tension. If the end of the tire has an unattended sprocket, then lubrication does not occur on it, that is, lubrication occurs separately in the presence of a special hole.
If the chainsaw is well adjusted, it can be easily started. For this purpose, the saw is installed on level ground, making sure that the tire does not fall to the surface of the earth. Be sure to activate the chain brake, its handle should be moved in a certain direction to the end of the tire. You should start the chainsaw, holding the saw with your left hand by the front handle, and with your right foot you should rest against the rear handle, which should be pressed to the ground.
Chainsaw oil. which oil is best used to lubricate the chainsaw chains
You have recently owned a chainsaw, and you still do not know which oil to lubricate the chainsaw chain is better to use. The lack of this knowledge can adversely affect the tool, because the type and quality of the lubricant depends on how long the tire and chain of the tool will remain operational.
After reading this article, you will fill the knowledge gap, as we will consider the use of oils from various manufacturers and brands to reduce friction between the parts of the saw set. And also we will figure out what additional lubricants are used to service the chainsaw in order to maximize its service life.
What oil to use to lubricate chainsaw chains
The answer to this question is quite simple, for this it is necessary to open the instruction for any saw and it will indicate that it is necessary to fill in oil with a good adhesive effect.
Adhesion is an indication of the adhesion of a material, in this case oil, to the metal surface of a tire and chain.
Why is this necessary? The fact is that the chain moves along the tire at high speed, and if oil is used as a lubricant that has low adhesion, then most of it, by inertia, flies from the end of the tire and lubrication of its lower part does not occur. This phenomenon can be observed if you conduct a small experiment. Start a chainsaw, point the end of the tire towards a bright surface and add gas as much as possible. As a result, oil spots will appear on it, which are proof of the theory.
Chainsaw sprocket grease
To increase the service life and reduce friction on the drive sprocket, the manufacturer equips this mechanism with a needle bearing, which must be lubricated periodically. Stihl multi-purpose grease can be used for lubrication.
If you do not want to overpay, it is better to use an inexpensive, but no less high-quality option, Litol or Litol 24. grease. Due to its viscosity, Litol will easily replace the original one.
Lubricate the sprocket of the chainsaw tire, you can use the same lubricants as the lead, using a special syringe for this. This allows the lubrication to be pressed through the technological holes in the tire to the sprocket bearing.
Adhesive Oil Manufacturers
Almost all manufacturers of chainsaws are engaged in the production and supplies for them, explaining this by the fact that these products are most suitable for use with their saws. As far as this information is true, there is no information, but based on the experience of operating and repairing chainsaws, it can be noted that there are no significant differences in the service life of parts or at least visible wear.
But the fact is the fact, manufacturers recommend and it is impossible to hide it. So, back to the manufacturers, and start with the popular Stihl brand.
Adhesive oils Stihl
The following adhesive oils are presented on the company’s website for various operating temperatures and having a good lubricating index:
ForestPlus adhesive oil. recommended for use at temperatures up to.15 ° C, shelf life under storage conditions of 3 years. It is delivered in liter or five liter containers;
BioPlus. its feature is a plant base, which allows it to quickly decompose when it enters the soil. It is applied up to minus 15, it is delivered in three, five and one-liter containers;
The latest SynthPlus oil has the ability to maintain performance at minus 25 ° C.
The company offers its customers Husqvarna Bio Advanced oil for use in normal and extreme conditions. The oil is made from plant components and is safe for the environment, supplied in liter and five liter containers.
As a cost-effective solution, the company has Vegoil oil, according to the manufacturer, its consumption compared to others is reduced by 40%. It is delivered in liter containers.
The company also produces bearing grease, which it recommends to lubricate the bearings of the drive sprocket and sprocket on the saw bar.
Less common, but popular with chainsaw owners, are:
Polar Lube Mineral. Digging Oleo-Mac;
Adhesive CHAMPION, sold in containers of up to 10 liters, which is convenient for use in forestry;
You can get acquainted with some chain oils by watching the video below, in which the seller of a large network of tools comments on the use of adhesive oils from various manufacturers.
How to replace the original expensive oil and is it worth it
In situations where it is not possible to use the original, you can replace them with oil for car engines. Cheap automobile oils such as autol or diesel lubrication options, due to reduced adhesive properties, are unsuitable for long-term use.
Some owners, despite the recommendations, still use analogues, preferring to change the tire and chain more often, but here everyone decides for himself. Such an oil cannot have any negative effects on the lubrication system, which means that the difference is only in the quality of tire protection against chain friction.
A little bit about lubricating the chainsaw chains
Refining is called oil that has expired in the engine or gearbox of a car. Many owners of chainsaws, trying to save money, use it to lubricate the chain, which translates into serious repair costs.
The cause of these breakdowns is the presence in the mining of impurities of metal chips that settle in the crankcase, and at the time of drainage of mining from the pallet merges with it.
Getting on the tire, metal shavings act on its surface as an abrasive. Simply put, instead of protecting the surface, mining enhances wear on the tire, drive sprocket, and follower sprocket bearing on the tire. Workout also affects the chain of the chainsaw, in those places where it bends and increases the risk of breaking the chain mechanism.
Conclusion: to lubricate the chainsaw chains you need to use original lubricants from manufacturers. Running out of the car engine is not allowed. In the absence of high-quality oils, a short-term replacement by clean automobile oils is allowed
what do i need to know Faults, video
Owners of chainsaws are well aware of how to fill gasoline for a chainsaw. But for those who only buy such equipment and do not know how to use it correctly, you need to know that you can’t just take and pour gasoline into the tank. as a result of such an erroneous action, your chainsaw will fail in a short time. The reason is very simple. for two-stroke engines, which are installed on chainsaws, there is no separate lubrication system. It is necessary to dilute gasoline for a chainsaw with engine oil in a special proportion.
The device of the gasoline motor for chain saws
Chainsaws, like most other similar equipment, use two-stroke internal combustion engines. Their main advantage over the four-stroke engines that are used in cars is the fact that for 2-stroke engines it turns out to remove power one and a half times more with the same volume. But there are also disadvantages. oil for chainsaws needs to be added directly to the fuel tank, which increases oil consumption. As a result, the mixture of oil and gasoline during combustion in the working chamber turns into an oil mist that settles on the cylinder walls and lubricates the connecting rod-piston group elements.
Oil for 2 x stroke chainsaw engines is diluted in a certain proportion with gasoline and poured into the tank. When the gas in the tank runs out, you need to prepare a new mixture. At the same time, car oil cannot be used in a chainsaw. special oil is required for two-stroke engines.
What kind of oil to pour into a chainsaw?
It is strictly forbidden to use those oils that are used in automobile engines. a special two-stroke oil for a chainsaw is recommended, recommended by the manufacturer. Manufacturers themselves do not produce lubricants with rare exceptions, but cooperate with all well-known brands and often offer their products under their own label. Therefore, in the passport you will definitely find a mention of which 2-stroke oil for chainsaws is suitable for this particular model.
The following oils are recommended for imported chainsaws:
Classification of TA, TB and TC (TSC-1/2/3) according to the American standard API.
2t JASO standard Japanese chainsaw oil corresponding to classes FA, FB and FC;
oil of the European ISO standard, class EGB and EGC.
Video: Adhesive Mineral Oils For Lubricating Chainsaws Chains
As for domestic chainsaws, high-quality oil is also recommended for them. If it is not possible to purchase, then you can use a lubricant designed for motorcycle engines of the 2-stroke type.
What kind of gasoline to fill in a chainsaw?
Manufacturers strongly recommend using only high-quality gasoline for a chainsaw, with an octane rating of at least 92 and an ethanol content of not more than 10%. It is not recommended to use opaque gasoline that has impurities. they will quickly clog the fuel system and engine.
IMPORTANT: it is not necessary to prepare the gasoline mixture for the chainsaw just before pouring it into the tank. this can be done in advance. over, many manufacturers produce ready-made containers with several compartments, for example, for gasoline and oil or gasoline, oil and ready-mix, and also complete such containers with a special measuring syringe. With its help, oil is collected in a chainsaw in the proportion that is required. But if the mixture is prepared in advance, then the maximum shelf life should not exceed 10 days. over time, the octane number of gasoline decreases, and due to the fact that part of the gasoline disappears from the mixture, the proportion of oil and gasoline for the chainsaw changes.
Is it possible to pour 95 gasoline into a chainsaw?
Almost 75% of manufacturers in the passport to the chainsaw indicate that it is necessary to use AI-92 gasoline. Those owners of such equipment who first encounter it and do not know what gasoline is needed for a chainsaw draw parallels with car engines and conclude that the higher the octane number, the better. As a result, not understanding how to properly dilute gasoline for a chainsaw, dilute the oil and AI-95 gasoline.
The thing is that the increase in the octane number is achieved by introducing various additives into gasoline, as is done in AI-95 and AI-98 gasoline. Additives are harmful for two-stroke engines due to their special design, therefore, AI-92 gasoline must be used, especially in our country. Firstly, this is correct and will extend the life of the motor, and secondly, cheaper. But for some manufacturers, for example for Stihl, you can use the AI-95, but it’s better to take it at good proven gas stations.
How to breed gasoline for a chainsaw?
Before pouring fuel into the tank, it is necessary to prepare a gasoline mixture. The ratio of oil and gasoline for a chainsaw is regulated in strict proportions. as a rule, they are indicated in the instruction manual. In the event that you do not know how much oil to pour into gasoline for a domestic production chainsaw, it is recommended to use a ratio of 1:15. 1:20. That is, use 50-70 ml of oil per 1 liter of gasoline.
As for imported equipment, then the proportions are completely different. For example, how to dilute gasoline with 2 kW Husqvarna chainsaw oil? To do this, we look at the instructions and see that the manufacturer recommends using a 1:50 ratio, i.e. per 1 liter of gasoline is used no more than 20 ml of oil. If there is no passport (lost, torn, etc.), use the Internet or contact a service center. so you will know exactly how much oil you need to fill in gasoline for a chainsaw. An increased amount of oil threatens with increased soot and clogging of the cylinder, which will lead to fracture of the piston rings and a decrease in compression, moreover, it is expensive. If the amount of oil for chainsaws in the mixture is low, this will lead to overheating of the engine and a sharp decrease in its resource.
If you do not know how much oil to pour into a Chinese chainsaw, and there is no passport on hand, then this proportion is approximately 1:25, that is, 40 ml of oil per 1 liter of gasoline. In general, the amount of oil directly depends on the layout. the denser all units are installed, the less oil is needed.
Before preparing a gasoline mixture for a chainsaw, you must first pour gasoline into the canister, and only then add oil, not otherwise. Otherwise, more viscous oil will stick to the walls and bottom of the canister and dissolve worse, which will violate the correct proportions of gasoline and chainsaw oil.
Choosing chainsaw chain oil
In addition to the motor, there is another important unit in the chainsaw with many moving parts. the chain. It uses not motor oil, but chain oil for a chainsaw. it is cheaper and has completely different properties.
How to use oil for a chainsaw chain depends on its “age”. If your chainsaw is new and under warranty, you will have to use ONLY branded oils recommended by the manufacturer. Otherwise, if the saw fails in the service center, it will immediately be removed from the warranty, as the use of lubricants that do not meet the requirements of the manufacturer is a violation of the operating conditions. On the other hand, branded oils are really high quality:
allow to work in a wide temperature range from 30 to 50 C,
high adhesion improves the “sticking” of oil to the chain and reduces its consumption;
additives reduce friction and extend the life of the chain.
If the saw is removed from the guarantee, and the purchase of branded oil for the chainsaw chain does not fit the budget, you can use any transmission or motor oil. It is advisable to change it 2 times a year: in winter use a more liquid oil, in the summer. a thicker one.
What kind of oil to lubricate the chainsaw chain also depends on the wood you have to work with. For dry wood, gear oil is recommended; for raw wood it is better to use some kind of oil for diesel engines.
Common Chain Issues
How to adjust the oil supply to the chainsaw chain?
If the oil supply to the chain is incorrectly adjusted, the chain may overheat (insufficient supply) or increased oil consumption and oil contamination of the wood (too high supply). Therefore, adjusting the oil supply to the chain of the chainsaw is a very important process, since both the consumption of the oil itself and the long-term operation of the chainsaw itself depend on it.
How the oil is fed to the chain of the chainsaw depends on the position of the screw for adjusting the plunger of the oil pump. In the factory setting, the screw is set in the middle position. To reduce the oil supply, turn it off at the “-” mark, to increase it, to the “” mark.
Why doesn’t oil get to the chainsaw chain?
In the case, the oil does not go to the chainsaw chain at all, which means either the drive of the oil pump itself has failed, or there are problems with air suction.
Damage to the oil pump. If the screw still does not feed oil to the chainsaw chain, the drive, which is a plastic ring with grooves, is broken. Over time, the grooves may wear out and the drive will fail, after which it will just have to be replaced.
The hose through which oil under pressure is supplied to the chain has slept or worn out. It must be re-secured to the fitting or replaced.
The grooves along which oil is supplied to the chain of the chainsaw are clogged. this is the most common phenomenon. They need to be cleaned, after which the flow will resume.
Why is oil flowing from a chainsaw?
If you notice oil from a chainsaw flowing out, then this is a malfunction and there may be several reasons for it:
Most often, oil flows from the chainsaw chain if the fuel tank is leaking. Carefully inspect the reservoir for cracks or tightness of the tube to the fitting. If there are violations. eliminate them.
The oil channels are clogged, as a result of which the oil does not enter them, but drips onto the ground. It is required to clean the channels with pressure. this will fix the problem.
What oil to use to lubricate the chainsaw chains: tips and tricks
Chainsaw headset works in difficult conditions that adversely affect its durability. The oil for the chainsaw chain supplied to the working area prevents overheating of the working parts and contributes to efficient sawing of hardwood. The smooth running of the chain removes part of the load from the power unit.
The designers of the chainsaw equipment recognize the need for a complete lubrication of the headset, so in the compact designs of modern chainsaws there is a place for a consumable oil tank and an oil pump, with a fixed or adjustable capacity.
Benefits of Higher Price Oils
Branded chain oils include useful antioxidant, anticorrosive, stabilizing components and additives that help preserve the working properties of the oil and increase the wear resistance of working equipment in difficult operating conditions.
The quality of branded supplies is a reference. Most of these are products from leading manufacturers of Stihl, Husqvarna, Echo, Daewoo and several others. Over the past few years, the quality of Chinese chain oils produced at state-owned enterprises has improved markedly.
Owners of chainsaw equipment independently decide which oil to use to lubricate the chainsaw chains. In the best case, this is a consumable material adapted to the climate of the region recommended by the instruction manual for this model.
Evaluation of the operational advantages of the so-called universal oils should be treated critically. In reality, this is not a very successful advertising move. To date, no manufacturer has respected any information regarding the start of production of 100% universal oil.
Practice has shown that the wrong choice of chain lubrication increases the load on the engine by 7-10% and also reduces the working life of the saw set.
Branded or standard oil for lubricating the chainsaw chains in terms of density, viscosity, degree of purification from impurities and other performance characteristics meets the requirements of special standards.
Organic and mineral compositions in terms of working properties are not significantly different.
Experienced users recommend working on organic consumables if the intervals between the use of a chainsaw do not exceed a few days.
Anticorrosive and other protective properties of more expensive mineral oils are used if the tool is used for infrequent one-time work.
Checking the oil for compliance with the external temperature, and at the same time the lubrication system for operability, is not difficult. To do this, hold the headset for a medium-speed saw over a blank sheet of paper for several seconds.
By the breadth and saturation of the oil strip, one can judge the suitability of the composition for continuous operation at a given air temperature and the performance of the built-in oil pump.
The problem is how to replace branded chain oil, which is not on sale, is relevant for many peripheral regions. According to experts, a full-fledged analogue is identical in basic characteristics to products of well-known brands Stihl and Husqvarna. The engine and chain oils of these manufacturers have proven themselves in every respect from the best side.
Given the capabilities of the proposed range, the consumer can opt for a more expensive chain oil or its budget equivalent. In addition to branded products, Enkor, Nanotek Standard and Nanotek Premium oils are listed, preserving operating properties at temperatures up to 30 ° C.
Mineral-based versions of oils are represented by the brands Makita and Makita Oregon, identical lubricating characteristics for organic chain oils Makita Biotop, Stihl Bio Plus, which are sold in packaging volumes from 1 to 25 liters.
Professional sawmills mostly prefer branded lubricants of the same brand. The constant use of the same brand of oil allows you to study its capabilities and use them with maximum efficiency.
Adjustment of oil density to external temperature factors
The use of chain oil at a low temperature of up to 20 ° C negatively affects the performance of the oil pump and the durability of its drive.
In the absence of the required material, the problem is solved by diluting the oil thickened in the cold. As a solvent, dehydrated kerosene is best suited.
Such an additive will provide complete lubrication of the headset, but it is recommended to significantly limit heavy loads when working with a diluted oil.
Price features of the offered assortments
High-price European chain oils are recommended for the operation of professional chainsaw equipment operating in difficult, if not extreme conditions.
The cost of consumables is fully compensated by the performance of large-scale sawing operations, reliability, almost complete production of the designated service life by the saw equipment.
Domestic chain oils are mostly produced from their own raw materials of imported additives and using modern technologies.
In terms of quality and operational characteristics, the Russian range is not inferior to similar products of European brands, but costs significantly less.
Chinese middle-class saw sets for wear resistance and durability are inferior to European counterparts. This imbalance is partially eliminated by the use of manufacturer-recommended chain oils developed by Chinese experts.
According to suppliers of consumable components, the presence of special additives in Chinese chain oils has a positive effect on the performance of standard tires and saw chains, as well as chainsaw equipment in general.
All of the above applies only to the products of large companies. The benefits of using chain oils from small private enterprises have not been proven in practice.
The danger of using oil counterfeit
The performance properties of cheaper fake oils are inferior to proprietary developments in basic parameters. The problem is that, relying on the expected quality of the product, users operate their full-load chainsaw equipment.
The use of surrogate oils initiates accelerated wear of the material part, in some cases it is the basis for the cancellation of factory warranty obligations by service departments.
The consequences of unjustified savings
Many owners of budget chainsaws equipped with simple lubrication systems with constant performance are concerned about increased oil consumption. The average price of a quality product is three times less than the cost of its motor analogue, however, cases of the use of various oil substitutes are not rare.
Used in different proportions, spindle, diesel and motor oil for automobiles are not suitable for the full lubrication of the headset in their working properties.
It is not difficult to really calculate how much you can save on the use of a surrogate. Unfortunately, the profit cannot compensate for the accelerated depreciation of the old and the costs of acquiring a new headset.
The constant use of substitutes reduces the life of an expensive saw set by 30-40%. Depreciation is significantly accelerated if you fill in a chainsaw lubrication system that has worked out its working out resource.
For complete lubrication and cooling of the chain or pouring into the gearbox, none of the compositions proposed by users are suitable. Not the best replacement option is M8 winter engine oil, which, under conditions of a general shortage, was refueled by Druzhba chainsaws and their prototypes.
Advantages of automatic systems
Chainsaws less expensive in oil consumption, equipped with automatic lubrication systems. Depending on the engine speed, the oil supply is dosed by a variable displacement pump.
At idle speed, oil is practically not consumed. In models with automatic lubrication, the consumption of working material is reduced by almost half.
Pro recommendations on the selection and use of chain oils
The operation of the lubrication system must be periodically monitored. Lack of oil supply is easily determined by the increase in engine load and the smell of overheated wood. The crown and bearing of the drive and driven sprockets need additional lubrication.
It is recommended to put new and already used saw chains for long-term storage in unheated rooms in oil baths. This method compares favorably with the application of grease, since it eliminates the formation of condensate moisture and local corrosion.
Chainsaw oil. which to use for chain lubrication, for gasoline, ratio and proportions
Hello! In this article, I will tell you how to use chainsaw oil. The information presented here is based both on my personal experience of using saws and on the experience that I am a sales assistant on this technique. this is both communicating with customers and with service masters. Plus there will be a theory. where would it be without it.
What oil to pour into gasoline for a chainsaw?
To prepare the fuel mixture, special oil is used for two-stroke engines. There are a great many of them today. However, manufacturers themselves, especially serious ones such as Stihl or Husqvarna, always write which oil to mix with gasoline for their chainsaws. They are produced under the same brand, therefore, for example, Stihl oil is suitable for Stihl saws, and Husqvarna is suitable for Husqvarna.
Representatives of manufacturers at the same time say that they do not know how the chainsaw will work with other oils, but they can definitely guarantee the correct operation of their equipment when the fuel mixture for it is prepared on the basis of the product that they indicate in the operating instructions. By the way, if a malfunction occurs in the piston group during the warranty period, you may be denied a free repair if it turns out that you added something other than what the manufacturer indicates.
The masters from the services with whom I had to communicate praise all the same Stihl and Husqvarna oils.
Mineral or synthetic oil. which is better to add to gasoline
Push-pull oils can be mineral or synthetic. As with cars, synthetics are always more expensive than mineral water. Its most important advantage is that when using a chainsaw inside the cylinder, soot does not form. This extends its service life. Thus, if you want the saw to serve as much as possible, fill in the synthetics.
True, it is worth noting that if you have already used a mineral water for a long time (at least 100 hours), then you can not use synthetics. This is due to the fact that synthetic oil, having cleansing properties, will wash away the accumulated layer of carbon deposits on the cylinder walls, and its falling off pieces can cause damage. Therefore, if you have been using Mineral-Koy for a long time, then use it.
The ratio of oil and gasoline for chainsaws
To find out how much oil to pour into gasoline for a chainsaw (as for any other push-pull technique: trim tabs, motor drill, etc.), you need to look at the correct proportion in the instructions for the saw or on the package. Usually, when using the "native" option, the proportion is 1:50. If a different type is used, it is recommended to mix it in a proportion of 1:40. That is, for example, with a ratio of 1:50, divide 1 liter by 50 and get 0.02 liters. this is the amount that needs to be added to 1 liter of gasoline. That is, for 1 liter of gasoline pour 20 ml.
The proportions of gasoline and chainsaw oil should be observed with great accuracy, therefore, to determine the right amount, I advise you to use an ordinary medical syringe with 20-25 ml. In addition, there are special packaging with a dispenser, as well as containers for mixing. The latter allow you to measure as the right amount of both mixed products.
Using a syringe or a package with a dispenser, you need to have a container by which it will be possible to accurately measure the required amount of gasoline.
So, after adding the necessary amount of oil to gasoline, just shake the container in which they are mixed, and that’s it. the fuel mixture is ready.
Do not stock up on a mixture for future use, as it is limited in shelf life. Typically, the shelf life after mixing should not exceed one month, but some service centers recommend generally storing the finished fuel mixture for no more than 3 days.
What oil to use to lubricate chainsaw chains
Now let’s move on to the chain lubrication. For chain lubrication, it is necessary to use special adhesive lubricants specifically designed for this. You can, of course, fill in other types of oils, for example, transmission or motor oils, but they will not also effectively lubricate the tire and chain, as does a special adhesive oil for lubricating the chain.
This is due to the fact that a special lubricant contains adhesive substances that make it “stick” to the chain. Due to this, it does not fly out so much when the chain rotates, as other types of it do. Therefore, the tire and chain do not wear out so much and last longer.
If you put a good adhesive on the thumb and forefinger, connect them, and then part them, you can see how it stretches between them. Other types will not be able to.
An important characteristic is density. Do not take too liquid grease, as it is quickly consumed. As my experience shows, as well as the buyers with whom I had to talk about this topic, the lubricant for the Stihl chain is consumed the longest.
It is also worth noting that if you care about nature, you can use oil to lubricate the chain, which later decomposes without harming the environment. It is produced on a plant basis. The price, of course, will be higher.
Fill oil to lubricate the chain in a special tank up to the neck. It is recommended to top up along with refueling the saw with the fuel mixture, since, as a rule, when the fuel tank is full, the chain lubrication still remains in some quantity. But if you do not add it, then it will be consumed before the fuel runs out.
That’s all. I hope you were interested and you learned something new for yourself. Use only special oils for gasoline and chain lubrication, and your chainsaw will last you all its intended life.
Read other articles on my site. Bye and see you soon!
Chainsaw chain oil. Which oil to use to lubricate the chainsaw chains?
Chainsaws are a popular tool for those who have to do numerous household chores on their own. They can be used for different purposes. to harvest firewood, cut dry branches But in order for the device to last as long as possible, you need to properly care for it, correctly choosing different compositions. A special role is played by oil for chainsaw chains, which is selected depending on the operating principles of the tool and its characteristics.
What to consider?
Grease the saw chain with due care. First of all, you should choose a special oil that will not harm the oil pump. In addition, this will ensure the quality of the self-lubrication system. The chain requires proper storage, that is, immersion in oil, and in case of wear you should not try to reanimate the old chain. it is easier to replace it. How to choose oil for chainsaw chains so that it is safe and meets all the requirements?
Types and composition
Select a specific oil, depending on where and how the chainsaw is operated. Mineral compounds are suitable for the summer and warm season. In other cases, it is better to use synthetic or semi-synthetic oils. If it is necessary to lubricate the chain, do not use used oils, which will lead to clogging of the fuel system, and then serious damage to the tool.
Chainsaw chain oil must be thoroughly cleaned so that it is properly and accurately lubricated. If low-quality compounds are used, there will be no contact between the saw elements and the tire, sparks will appear, and subsequently the movable parts of the saw will wear out.
How to choose?
Each chainsaw has a carbureted two-stroke engine and two tanks: in one, gasoline is poured, in the second. oil. When choosing a composition for lubrication, zoning plays an important role. it should be minimal. Another important indicator is resistance to low temperatures: the oil should not freeze with a strong minus, which will ensure the quality of the entire tool.
For lubrication, it is advisable to use adhesive oil for chainsaw chains containing special substances, due to which the composition adheres well to the chain. High-quality oil will remain on the chain during its rotation, and the chain itself will be more reliable in operation.
Another important indicator of lubrication is density: if the composition is liquid, it will be consumed in larger quantities. In order not to harm the environment when using a chainsaw, it is important to use vegetable-based oil. its waste will decompose in the natural environment.
Which oil for the chainsaw chain to choose, because modern manufacturers offer a wide selection of options? Among the specialized manufacturers, brands such as Divinol, Bio-Kettenol, Ravenol, VegOil, Mobil, Castrol, Shell can be noted. Consider the features of their products in more detail.
This brand offers to evaluate the lubricant for high quality chains, which is characterized by good adhesive and lubricating abilities, due to which the lubrication is performed efficiently, and the chain links and joints are reliably protected from wear. The optimal combination of viscosity and temperature characteristics is the key to the fact that this oil can be used in any season and at any temperature.
Divinol offers a variety of chainsaw oil. Which one to use? Zweitaktoel FF attracts attention with its economical consumption, combination with any fuel, anti-aging fuel mixture and excellent protection against corrosion. In addition, this oil can be used at any temperature. Divinol Kettenol and Divinol Kettenol Bio can be used to lubricate chains and chainsaws. Using these formulations, chain links and joints can be reliably protected against wear while ensuring economical oil consumption. High-quality organic oils of this brand provide excellent lubrication and adhesive properties, so their use is not only simple, but also environmentally friendly.
What oil to lubricate the chainsaw chains to choose? Many note the composition of the brand Ravenol. So, Ravenol Saegekettenoel S 85 is a special mineral oil, created in Germany from high quality base oil with the addition of a number of additives. It is suitable for lubricating the saw chain, it has good grip and lubricating properties. Thanks to special additives, the oil remains on the chain even at high revolutions of the saw, and the chain itself becomes more reliable in operation. Provides oil and reliable protection against corrosion, even if the work is carried out in not the most favorable conditions. Thanks to the use of this composition, you can:
reduce vibration of the saw chain;
reliably protect it from corrosion;
cool the circuit due to good thermal conductivity;
quickly and cleanly cut any wood species.
Probably every user is hearing about Stihl brand products. The eco-friendly Stihl chainsaw oil is effective and based on herbal ingredients. Chain oil is of high quality, which can be appreciated in any climatic conditions. Due to its environmental friendliness, Stihl products have always been popular with customers. Of particular note is the Stihl BioPlus Chain Lubricant, which is formulated to process high-speed chains. It is different:
resistance to oiling;
excellent adhesion due to special additives;
excellent protection for cutting headsets;
excellent fluidity, which is maintained even at low temperatures;
resistance to oxidation.
The most important thing is that the oil is absolutely safe for the environment, as it decomposes naturally.
Semi-synthetic oil Stihl
Stihl chainsaw chain oil is an environmentally friendly lubricant as it is made from high quality primary raffinates. The oil contains no impurities that can pollute the environment. You can use this tool in any climatic conditions, and it will behave equally efficiently even at low temperatures. Stihl chain oil provides reliable wear protection for chain chains. You can purchase this composition in different volumes. it depends on the characteristics of the chainsaw and the degree of load on it.
The products of this brand also do not need extra ideas, since it has established itself only on the best side. Vegeil Husqvarna chain lubricating oil, which is created on a vegetable basis, is notable for its good lubricating properties and high environmental friendliness. The oil is economical, biodegradable, has a low viscosity, even when operating at low temperatures. Due to the excellent performance characteristics, oils of this brand are considered one of the best.
Which oil should I use to lubricate the chainsaw chain and how to choose one so that it can be used at any time of the year? The Oregon brand offers formulations that are suitable for all types of tools. Stability of viscosity is a guarantee that the oil is suitable for operation at any time of the year. The composition includes refined mineral oils, to which additives are added. A feature of Oregon formulations is their manufacture based on high molecular weight compounds. The distinctive features of the oil include:
protection of the guide bar and chain from overheating;
prevention of corrosion due to the formation of an oil film.
Thanks to special adhesive additives, this oil gains great stickiness and viscosity, therefore, even at high speeds, it will not be sprayed and will remain on the chain and tire. Thanks to the regular use of oil, it is possible to reduce the load on the cutting headset, and indeed on the entire mechanism of the chainsaw. Special additives reduce the energy consumption of the saw, increasing the efficiency of the sawing process. The main thing is that when using these funds tarry deposits are not formed.
This oil has such a specific composition that it is completely biodegradable, but remains safe from the point of view of exposure to harmful substances. Due to the combination of vegetable oils with high-quality additives, the chain is lubricated more efficiently, it is reliably protected from wear under any operating conditions. Due to the good adhesive and lubricating ability, lubrication is carried out as conveniently and optimally as possible, and the composition can be operated in frosts up to 30 degrees.
The performance of the chainsaw is greatly influenced by such aggregate indicators as:
the distance between the teeth of the chain;
chain drive wheel.
The chain needs constant lubrication during operation. For this purpose, special oils for chainsaws are used.
The supply of the lubricant must be continuous, as the oil is squeezed out of the groove of the tire and impregnated with sawdust. Therefore, chain-saws, as well as those operating on the basis of gasoline or electricity, are equipped with a special system on an automatic basis. On some professional models, the oil flow rate is adjustable. Low-cost models are equipped with a hand pump with a drive coming from the handle button.
When grease is needed
Chainsaw oils are necessary in the following cases:
You are the owner of a new unit. To guarantee its safety, you need to use lubricating oils, which are recommended by companies that produce the saw. In the event of a device malfunction, you will repair it at your own expense. In particular, this rule applies to models of an expensive segment.
Take care of nature and do not pollute it. For this, it is recommended to use bio-based oils.
Chainsaw chain lubrication oil is needed to operate the saw at critical temperatures.
Which oil to use
Very often, when buying a machine, the question is asked: “Which oil is best for a chainsaw?”. You can use any. But there is a nuance: consultants often advise to purchase chain lubricants from the company that made the saw. As a rule, this approach is suitable for working in severe frost and in the case when you are careful about the environment.
In other cases, it is quite acceptable to replace the chainsaw chain oil with any other. Often, users do not understand why the consumption of a lubricant is greater than a fuel mixture. Here, one important fact is taken into account: manufacturing companies calculate the consumption of lubricant for the chain based on the fact that their own branded oil will be filled. Oil consumption from another manufacturer may be smaller or larger.
In many models, chainsaw chain oil is consumed through tuning. This is done by adjusting the performance of the oil pump.
In the absence of such a regulator, the manufacturer provides for internal installation.
How to check the correct consumption of lubricating oil? It is necessary to turn on the saw and bring it to the wooden surface to be cut in a horizontal position. Splashes of oil should fly from the chain, and a thin greasy mark should remain on the tree.
Types of oils
Consider oils for chainsaws from various companies of different price categories.
The most budgetary options are:
Nanotech Standard lubricant. It is used at temperatures up to. 20 ° C;
adhesive oil "Nanotek Premium", operating at 30 ° C.
grease from the well-known manufacturer Enkor;
Environmentally friendly mineral-based oils:
Stihl Bio Plus.
Chainsaw oils, which are filled in three- and five-liter containers during packaging, are an economical option.
The most common are lubricants of the M-8 and M-10 brands. Their characteristics are quite satisfactory.
The unit characterized by the greatest compactness and power is the Stihl chainsaw. She performs various operations with a tree. The device has become very popular, as it cuts well. The tool is equipped with many accessories that make working with it very convenient.
The Stihl apparatus chain lubrication system includes:
Chainsaw lubrication oil is supplied through a special regulator. Lubrication occurs continuously during the operation of the saw. Therefore, the chains are characterized by a long service life.
When working, the chain needs constant lubrication. This is provided by the design of the chainsaw. During the operation of the apparatus, oil leaves the groove of the tire and penetrates the sawdust. Automatic chain lubrication
Semi-synthetic oil “Stihl”
Often, Stihl chainsaw owners are wondering which oil is best for this model.
Its functionality may be affected by:
To solve this problem, Stihl has developed a universal oil for the lubrication of chainsaws on a synthetic basis. It is suitable for all units with high speed. This grease can be used under any conditions. The tool works without fail.
Stihl Chainsaw Oil is based on high quality components. It does not contain toxic substances that provoke the occurrence of cancer. The composition meets all environmental requirements.
Russian nature is quite severe. In the Russian Federation there are areas where in winter a temperature of 20 ° C is observed. An innovative invention is Stihl chainsaw oil. It is designed for use at low temperatures. Even in cold weather, the substance is fluid.
Specially developed additives that are part of the lubricant do not allow the cutting set to become oily. They extend the life of other parts as well.
The use of this substance reduces chain wear. Due to the high level of grease resistance at high temperature, the cutting headset is in perfect condition. Stihl chainsaw oil is not afraid of high temperatures. You will never feel smoky when working.
Which grease is not suitable for the Stihl chainsaw
Gear lubrication is not suitable for the operation of the chainsaw. In winter, it freezes. As a result, the system becomes clogged and must be cleaned.
Foreign oil for the M-20 chainsaw chain thickens at a low temperature and becomes like petroleum jelly. For processing the unit in the winter, only a special oil of liquid consistency is suitable.
Buying such a lubricant is not always possible. To solve the problem, diesel fuel is divorced from oil, resulting in lower viscosity. If before that time branded oil was already poured into the crankcase, then the addition of the mixture will not work, since the channels of the system will be clogged. There is only one solution: the chainsaw will have to be heated in a warm room.
With strong solidification of the chain oil, you can try to warm it up, starting the unit at low idle speed.
Key performance indicators chainsaw chains
Chainsaw chain oil is not always used the same. The volume depends on the texture of the tree and its thickness. With a long length of cut and hardness of the tree will require a lot of substance.
The tooth of the chain planes the wood like a planer, and the thickness of the chips is controlled by the height of the limiter.
Intensive work of the saw leads to a rapid blunting of the chain. Several sharpenings may be required within one day. The problem is aggravated by the fact that the tooth quickly becomes dull when it encounters the ground. It is enough to hook the soil once or twice, and the work can be stopped. the chips become shallow, and the saw ceases to go deeper into the tree.
The earlier blunted teeth are sharpened, the less material needs to be removed during sharpening, as a result. the chain life is longer. Determining the moment when sharpening is already required is quite simple. An important feature is the feed force. A properly sharpened chain retracts into the cut even with a slight pressure. If on the contrary, a chainsaw is forced to saw with an increased feed force, then the teeth become dull. A dull chain can also be recognized if, instead of a large thick chip, only small chips fly out of the cut.
In this situation, the chainsaw should be sharpened urgently. Do not saw with a blunt or defective saw chain. the result is a strong tension in the body, a large cyclic load, poor cutting results. In addition, this means a decrease in productivity, high fuel consumption and increased wear on all nodes of the chainsaw.
Chain Tooth Parameters
To achieve optimal cutting properties, certain angles are attached to the tooth blades. The tooth back that slopes at an angle back forms the posterior angle of the upper blade. This angle is needed for cutting the upper blade into the wood.
The tapering back of the tooth blade forms the posterior angle of the end blade. This angle is needed for side cutting chips.
The edge of the end blade forms a rake angle with the sliding surface of the cutting link. The front angles of different types of chains vary from 60 to 85 °.
The rear corner of the upper blade characterizes the tilt of the upper blade back.
This angle is measured relative to the sliding plane of the cutting link and, depending on the type of saw chain, has a value from 50 ° to 60 °. The upper blade is the main blade, and the rear corner of the upper blade. this is the most important angle. The rear corner of the upper blade is difficult to measure, its correct value is formed subject to other prescribed values.
The grinding angle or the angle in the plan is obtained by measuring from the upper cutting edge at a right angle to the guide rail.
The angle of sharpening can be changed, depending on the application. The main rule: the greater the angle of sharpening, the higher the cutting performance when cutting unfrozen soft wood. Reducing the angle of sharpening when cutting frozen and / or solid wood contributes to a smoother stroke of the saw and a reduction in vibration. However, sharpening angles of more than 35 ° and less than 25 ° should be avoided (chains are excluded for longitudinal cutting, in which this angle is 10 °).
The rake angle, the angle of sharpening and the angle of the upper blade change when sharpening. These angles have a decisive influence on the cutting ability of the chain. Be sure to follow the prescribed values.
Video: At What Angle Is A Chainsaw Chain Sharpened
On each cutting link in front of the tooth blade there is a depth limiter. The height difference between the top edge of the depth gauge and the front edge of the tooth back is defined as the distance of the depth gauge.
The depth of penetration of the upper blade into the wood (chip thickness) and, thereby, productivity, depend on the distance of the depth gauge. The depth gauge distance is set depending on the chain pitch and type of execution. Normally, it should be 0.5-0.8 mm, usually 0.6 mm. High values will lead to an increased tendency of the chainsaw to recoil, too much grip and vibration of the chain. Low values result in poor performance. Since the distance of the depth gauge with each sharpening of the saw is reduced due to the reduction of the upper edge of the tooth, the depth gauge also needs to be filed periodically. after 5-10 sharpening the chain.
General rules for sharpening chainsaw chains
There are lines on the round file holder that allow it to be correctly positioned relative to the chain. The holder is mounted on the sharpened tooth in accordance with the orientation lines. In this case, the plate itself rests on the upper edge of the tooth and the depth gauge, and the file is located under the cutting edge.
Using a toolholder ensures that the file adheres to the tooth at the correct height. There are various tool holders for different steps of the saw chain. The right choice of tool holder in combination with the correct file diameter ensures that the file protrudes 1/5 of its diameter above the tooth back. Use only special files for sharpening chains.
Before sharpening the chain of the chainsaw, it is advisable to fix the tire. When sharpening, it is necessary, while maintaining the position of the holder and pressing the file against the edge to be sharpened, to make several (2-3) turning movements away from you. No need to try to press the file too hard, the movements should be smooth and measured. Turn the file regularly to avoid one-sided wear. All other teeth are ground in the same way. It is more convenient to first sharpen the teeth of one direction, then change position and do the same with the teeth of another direction.
When sharpening all teeth, make the same number of movements with a file at the same pressure. This will result in the same tooth length. All cutting teeth must be the same length. Different tooth lengths cause uneven chain travel and cracking in it. If the length of the teeth is not the same, all cutting teeth should be filed to the length of the shortest tooth.
After several sharpening of the cutting teeth, the depth gauge grinds. To do this, a template is superimposed on it so that the limiter falls into the slot, and the tip protruding from the slot is ground with a flat file.
The principle of using a different set for sharpening chains of chainsaws does not differ from the first, although its design has differences.
A round file is also used for sharpening a cutting tooth, and for sharpening a depth gauge. flat. A special template provides sharpening parameters for both cutting teeth and limiters. In the first case, it is superimposed on the chain so that it falls into its slots. A file overlaid on the template and brought under the cutting edge rests on the guide rollers. The direction of file movement should be parallel to the side edges of the template.
When grinding the limiter, the template is superimposed so that the limiter falls into the slot next to which SOFT (for soft wood) or HARD (for hard wood) is written. As in the case of the first fixture, grinding is performed by smooth smooth movements of the flat file away from you.
Chainsaw sharpening machines
Stihl produces two modifications of hand-held machines. stationary FG 2 and mobile FG 1 mounted directly on the bus. There are analogues of lesser-known companies, comparable in price with the simpler devices described above.
The working part of these devices is structurally reminiscent of a beam saw, into which a round long file is inserted instead of a saw blade. FG 1 and FG 2 not only sharpen the chains, but also straighten them, adjusting the length of the upper edge of all the teeth to the same size. on the smallest tooth, which is taken as the control. A rather complicated configuration mechanism allows you to set all the necessary parameters. Sharpening is performed in 2-3 movements, after which they proceed to the next tooth, saving for it all the settings that were made for the control tooth. This ensures the same grinding parameters for all teeth. When grinding the limiter, the round file changes to a flat one.
Simple and easy to use electric grinding machine for chainsaw chains. It has a tuning system that allows you to set the chain at the right angle and bring the disc exactly to the edge to be sharpened. There are machines that automatically clamp the vise when lowering the disc onto the chain.
Household, semi-professional and professional manual chainsaw, regardless of cost and performance, has an identical design. Cutting headset, which includes a tire for a chainsaw, and a saw chain is classified as replaceable equipment.
The decision which tire to put on the chainsaw is made by the owner, taking into account many factors. First of all, it is the compatibility of the seat and the channels for supplying lubricant to the working area, engine power, and the specifics of the work ahead.
Concrete help in independent choice of tires can be provided by recommendations of experienced specialists or information on application instructions.
In particular, a long saw set is preferable for felling and sawing trees of large diameter, a short one. for crowning trees and preparing for the installation of building wood.
In a standard solution, the longitudinal tire for the chainsaw is an elongated oval configuration made of quality steel.
There are holes for threaded fasteners at one end, and a driven sprocket is installed at the other end of the long tires. Such a device of the tire contributes to the smoothness of the chain and reduce load on the engine.
A groove is made along the perimeter of the tire into which the shanks of the saw chain are wound. Through special drilling to cool and lubricate the headset, chain oil is supplied in a metered amount to the working area.
The guide groove of the chainsaw chains in the household category is 1.1 or 1.3 mm wide. The same indicator for professional models is 1.5-1.6 mm. The mismatch between the thickness of the chain shank and the width of the groove can initiate overheating of the headset and its premature failure. In another embodiment, the chain may exit the groove or break it.
Similar consequences can occur if the pitch of the chain and the crown of the drive mechanism do not match. In many chainsaw models, replacing the drive sprocket involves time-consuming dismantling of the clutch assembly. In some cases, equipment of a service and repair level is required.
The most popular sprocket and chain pitch for saws up to 3 hp. 0.325 inches. For professional chainsaw equipment, a 3/8 inch pitch is characteristic.
The driven tire sprocket is not centrally lubricated. This disadvantage is compensated by the high quality of the bearing, which must be lubricated every 8-10 hours of operation. A complete replacement of the driven tire sprocket is possible only in an equipped workshop.
Tire selection criteria for quality characteristics
The tires unified by the landing sizes are presented in a small assortment. As a rule, each manufacturer uses its own standards, which excludes the possibility of operating a chainsaw with sawing equipment of other brands.
The selling price of guide tires is determined by the size, quality of the material and brand awareness. The most expensive, most high-quality and durable products from leading manufacturers.
The high cost of branded tires is fully offset by high wear resistance and a long service life.
In the average price range. an assortment of tires of a budget level, which are equipped with gasoline and household saws. With proper operation and qualified service, tires of the Standard category produce a resource that is designated by the manufacturer with a large excess.
Less popular are cheap Chinese-made short-lived tires that are installed on chainsaws in the minimum price range. A significant part of such products goes on sale under the trademarks of well-known brands.
Video: What Chain To Put On A Chainsaw
How to eliminate the possible risks of acquiring tire counterfeit?
The information field shows signs by which it is easy to distinguish the original branded chainsaw from the most reliable fake. As for tires, their advantages and disadvantages are manifested directly in the operation.
In the domestic market of household appliances, about 15% of the total sales of chainsaw components is of unknown origin third-rate counterfeit, which produces a standard resource by half at best.
To operate a chainsaw complete with a fake tire and chain is economically disadvantageous and unsafe. A significant part of traumatic situations is created using tire and chain counterfeit.
Consumer demand leaders
In the process of natural selection, the first lines of sales ratings were taken by the products of leading European and Asian manufacturers of chainsaw equipment. The maximum demand for components of the brands Stihl, Husqvarna, Makita, and several others.
In all respects, the Oregon tire, which in various modifications completes the removable equipment for saws of an average and higher price level, has proven itself perfectly.
Design features of domestic and professional tires
The design of modern saw sets is constantly being improved. As a result of a partial modernization, the so-called narrow tire was developed.
Structurally, such models differ in the shape of the tip, which prevents a backstroke when the headset enters the cut. Chainsaw appliances of the household class are mostly equipped with narrow tires. A wide toe is a characteristic feature of a tire designed for cutting work of increased complexity, as well as professional-grade chainsaws.
Choice of bus length according to drive power
The length of the new guide rail is determined by the power and torque coefficient of the power unit.
Models of small and medium power chainsaws are equipped with tires from 30 to 40 cm long.
Longer saw sets create excessive loads on the engine and tool kinematics, which negatively affect its traction characteristics and durability.
The enclosed application manual indicates the recommended guide rail length. This means that the installation of a shorter headset is not ruled out, but there are a number of restrictions on the operation of the tool with an extended tire.
Professional-grade chainsaw equipment is equipped with power units whose power allows you to take advantage of tires up to 75 cm long. Often the tire size in centimeters and inches is applied to its lateral plane.
Recommendations for extending the service life
The approximate service life of a branded tire is equal to the total resource of 3 high-quality saw chains, the drive sprocket changes in state. Experts recommend using a set of several circuits in work.
This method allows to reduce the loss of working time, which is spent on periodic sharpening of chains, as well as to optimize the wear of the saw mechanism as a whole. Accelerated tire wear is a consequence of unskilled maintenance of the chainsaw and its illiterate operation.
The main factors for early failure of the tire:
excessive tension of the chain, initiating the rapid development of the groove and the shanks, or the mismatch of its pitch to the characteristics of the crown of the drive sprocket;
the application of significant efforts when sawing hard or frozen wood;
the tire warms up and wears out intensively due to a lack of lubrication, due to a malfunction or improper adjustment of the standard oil pump;
saving money on the use of low-quality chain oil or oil surrogates such as mining.
The forced consumption of the saw headset resource occurs when soil or sand gets into it, when a new chain operates on the worn crown of the drive sprocket.
Tire and Chain Installation
Dismantling the tire is done to clean the oil pipe, check the technical condition or replace. The operation sequence is described in the operating instructions. Upon completion of installation, make sure that there is no play and that the threaded fasteners are tight.
With certain skills, it only takes a few minutes to dismantle and install a new or sharpened chain. The technology requires the inclusion of an unauthorized start lock and, in some cases, an emergency stop mechanism.
Depending on the design of the tensioner, the chain is loosened to the required degree by rotating the adjusting screw or the setting disk until the shanks freely exit the groove of the guide bar.
After checking the direction of rotation, the shanks of the new chain are inserted into the groove in the guide groove and on the crown of the drive sprocket. The tension is reversed.
To check the degree of tension, simply pull the chain in the middle of the tire. The output of the link shank in this place should not exceed 2/3 of its height. A properly tensioned chain should move along the tire with little effort.
After installing and adjusting the saw headset, it is advisable to start the engine and maintain the saw at medium speed for several minutes. During this time, the operation of the lubrication system can be checked.
After turning off the power unit, it is necessary to turn on the start lock and check the headset for the absence of local overheating of the tire and a change in the degree of chain tension.
Reasons for uneven cut
In amateur chainsaw, many questions arise related to the care of the cut in one direction or another. Such a malfunction creates significant inconvenience when using a chainsaw in wooden construction technologies.
The reason for this phenomenon is the deformation of the tire that is hardly noticeable to the eye, improper sharpening, or uneven wear of the chain cutting links. If professional refinement of the chain does not give a positive result, the problem is eliminated by replacing the entire kit.
Each owner of a chainsaw throughout the life of the tool regularly encounters problems. As a result of various malfunctions, the chainsaw refuses to start, or works with noticeable failures. Specialists will help to fix any of the malfunctions. However, to save your time and money, you can try to repair the tool yourself. For this, you do not need to have expensive equipment. It is enough to have tools that can be found in any garage.
How to start a chainsaw?
Before you start the tool, you need to read the manual for its operation. The instructions for some models indicate that before starting the saw, an inertial brake must be applied to instantly stop the chain. Thus, starting the tool will be safer for the operator. However, with the brake on, it will be much more difficult to make a saw. In practice, it is best to start the saw with the brake off, while adhering to safety regulations.
To properly start a cold chainsaw, you need to adhere to the following procedure:
First of all, you need to move the throttle adjustment lever to the lowest position. It should be noted that the lever can be moved to this position only when the gas lever is pressed. During this, the carburetor throttle will close. To perform further actions, the gas lever must be locked in the pressed position;
Then you will need to sharply pull the standard starter cable several times. This must be done until the saw motor starts up, and then stalls. Next, the flap position lever must be moved one position up;
After that, you need to again sharply pull on the starter cable;
Then you need to quickly press the throttle lever and release it. In this case, the damper adjustment lever will automatically move to its working position. The engine speed will fall, which will indicate the readiness of the chainsaw for further work.
To make the tool hot, you will need to move the throttle control lever to the middle position and rarely pull on the starter cable.
Why not start a chainsaw. causes and solutions
Each model has its own weaknesses. Some saws require regular carb adjustment. The disadvantage of others is the chain lubrication system. Be that as it may, any breakdown can be eliminated with your own hands, if you understand what its cause is, and what are its signs.
What should I do if the chainsaw stalls when I press the gas?
As a rule, owners of chainsaws begin to encounter this breakdown after the first 6 months of intensive use of the tool. There may be several reasons for this malfunction.
Their list includes:
use of fuel mixture prepared in the wrong proportion. If you regularly pour low-quality gasoline into the chainsaw tank, in which too much or too little oil is placed, the tool will not start. In this case, it will be necessary to drain the fuel and also dry the engine cylinder. To do this, you need to sharply pull the starter cable a few times. After this, you need to fill in the correctly prepared fuel, and start the saw engine;
filling the spark plug with oil at the time of starting the engine. This problem can be solved by removing, cleaning and drying the candles. After 30 minutes, the candle will dry and it can be screwed in. After that, you will need to start a chainsaw;
lack of spark. This indicates a bad contact between the factory high-voltage wire and the tip of the plug. If the contact is not broken, but there is still no spark, then you need to check the electronic unit of the chainsaw ignition system. This item is not repairable, so it will need to be completely replaced;
clogged air filter. This element of the saw must be regularly cleaned of debris, small insects and dust. Otherwise, air will not enter the carburetor, where it should enrich the fuel mixture. As a result, the saw will stop starting up. To solve the problem, you need to clean the filter, or replace it.
In most cases, the chainsaw ceases to start due to the use of low-quality fuel and engine oil. No need to save on working fluids, as this will lead to complex and lengthy repairs.
Video: Chainsaw Forward Starts And Stalls Failure Cause
The chainsaw starts up normally, but stalls when gas is added
One of the common breakdowns of household chainsaws is to work only at idle, and instantaneous failure when you press the standard gas trigger.
There can always be several reasons for this malfunction:
clogging or initially incorrect adjustment of a standard carburetor. in this case, you will need to clean the unit and adjust it according to the instructions in the instruction manual;
clogging of the base air filter of the tool used. because of this, air does not enter the saw carburetor, which leads to a gradual loss of power;
clogging or wear of the fuel filter. as a result, the part is not able to pass the amount of fuel that is necessary for the engine to gain speed.
If the chainsaw is idling but stalls under load, the first thing the owner should do is check the condition of the filters. Only after this can you start setting up the carburetor.
Chainsaw starts and stalls. repair malfunction
This problem often results from a carburetor breakdown. Its cause is often the malfunction of the main fuel jet or pump, which is responsible for pumping fuel.
It is also a common cause of chainsaw failure. this is air leaks in the crankcase. If it is insignificant, then the operation of the engine will not change much, only its power will drop slightly and the speed will increase, which will lead to its accelerated heating. With a gradual increase in suction, the chainsaw motor will stop idling and will quickly overheat when working under load. Too much air suction will cause the saw motor to quickly stop working immediately after starting it.
To eliminate the breakdown, the nozzle and the fuel pump of the chainsaw must be completely replaced. You will also need to clean the tool cylinder from deposits and oil residues.
What to do if the chainsaw warms up and stalls?
The situation in which the saw is gaining momentum and stalls is well known to many owners of semi-professional tools.
The main causes of failure can be as follows:
incorrect carburetor adjustment. This will be indicated by the filling of a candle with a hot engine. To accurately determine the breakdown, you need to start a saw with a cold engine. If for this the operator does not have to close the throttle, and to start it, a preliminary flash is not necessary, then the fuel is not formed correctly. To solve the problem, you will need to configure the base carb of the instrument;
spark plug breakdown. A sign of this malfunction will be the absence of sparks when the engine is hot. It is best to immediately replace the candle with a new part. If this does not work, then you will need to check the standard ignition coil, as well as the gap between the factory flywheel and magneto.
If the chainsaw stalls when heated, then most often the cause of this is the malfunction of the magneto. In almost all chainsaw models, this element is not repairable, which is why it is better to replace it immediately.
Chainsaw stalls under load. causes and solutions
A common reason that the saw stalls when you give gas is the incorrect setting of the factory carburetor. Another symptom of a malfunction is an increased air leak through the holes in the carburetor gaskets and oil seals located next to the crankshaft.
To eliminate this malfunction, it is best to take the chainsaw to a service center, as special devices will be required for diagnosis. If this is not possible, then you can try to fix the problem yourself. To do this, you need to disassemble the carburetor and check its tightness. You also need to inspect all seals and gaskets. If necessary, all worn seals will need to be replaced.
If the cause of the malfunction is not in the poor condition of the seals, then you can start adjusting the standard carburetor of the saw.
There is a spark, the candle is wet. how to solve the problem?
A wet candle indicates an imbalance in the preparation of the fuel mixture. In this state, the part is at first still able to form a spark, but gradually this property of the candle is lost. In addition to the wrong ratio of oil and fuel, there are a number of reasons why the element fills.
strong blockages of the air filter;
failures in the carb settings;
malfunctions in the work of the standard ignition system;
incorrect sequence of actions when starting a cold motor;
poor quality gasoline.
In the first case, chainsaw repair is carried out by thoroughly cleaning or completely replacing the instrument air filter.
If during operation the tool began to consume a large amount of fuel, and the engine speed began to “float” constantly, decreasing and increasing every 5-10 seconds, then the owner of the chainsaw should adjust the carburetor.
Repairing a standard ignition system is a bit more complicated. To do this, check all electrical wiring and measure the clearance between the high voltage wire and the tip of the plug. If necessary, the ignition system must also be cleaned of blockages.
If none of these malfunctions could be detected, then you need to study the instructions. Perhaps the operator starts the tool in the wrong sequence.