How to make a saw divorce at home. Alignment of the height of the links

Sharpening and wiring saw

The main cutting element of any manual saw is a series of teeth cut on the canvas and representing cutters in the form of wedges. The wood, in the manufacture of all kinds of products from it, is sawn along, across and at an angle θ to its fibers, in this regard, transverse, longitudinal sawing and sawing at an angle to its fibers are distinguished and, in each case, the corresponding type of saw is used, which differs from other forms teeth.

During transverse sawing, transverse saws are used, the cutting edges of the teeth of which, when moving in wood, is interrupted by its fibers as a knife and form a cut. The longitudinal sawing differs from the transverse in that the direction of movement of the saw parallel to wood fibers. The front edges of the teeth of the longitudinal drank string the wood, like knives in the shirts, and, deepening, form a cut. When sawing wood at an angle θ to its fibers, universal (mixed) saws with teeth, which are an intermediate shape of the teeth of transverse and longitudinal saws are used.

Sharpening of the saw

Sharpening of teeth drank. in its kind art, requiring fidelity of hands, good eye, attention. It is not difficult to learn this matter, it is necessary to have a desire and clearly adhere to the following rules:

• The saw canvas must be rigidly fixed in a special device made of wood, which is also steadily installed on a well.lit desktop. Sharpening of teeth drank on stools or knees does not give a satisfactory result.
• You should use a personal file, followed by stripping the sharpened faces of the teeth with velvet (with a small notch) or a file. It is desirable that the file is new, sharp and with a mounted handle. If at the right time it was not the same, then you can use a used, but necessarily cleaned with a steel brush and grated with wood coal, so that the file does not clog and does not stupor. When sharpening the tooth, the file should cling to its metal and remove its layer depending on the strength of pressure. And if it slides down the tooth without removing the metal, then the teeth of the saw are rolled or the file is Istrut. In this case, it is necessary to repeat the sharpening with a new file. If in this case it slides along the tooth, then it remains to take another saw.
• The handle of the file is clamped with the right hand, and its end holds the end with his left hand and the file is directed to the teeth of the saw. About the work of the file, depending on the type of saw, is described below.
• The pressure of the file on the teeth should be smooth and uniform and only one way from itself. When the file is returned to the starting position, he should not touch the teeth.
• We must try to grind the metal from the faces of the teeth of the minimum of the same thickness, the lead of the file is the same number of times with the same pressure, which allows you to maintain the values ​​of the angles, the step and height of the teeth after sharpening.
• On the faces of the tooth from the side of the file of the file, burrs are formed, which reduce the sharpness of the tooth, and if you do not remove it, then during the operation of the saw they are painted, and the teeth are significantly blunt. To remove the burrs, the edges of the teeth are wetted with a file with a velvet notch and the burrs from the side faces with a wet donkey are removed.
• After sharpening the teeth, it is necessary to check their sharpness. Look at the tip of the needles and the edge of the razor blade: they, sharpened, do not shine in the light. And if they lick them, then rounded surfaces appear on the tip of the needles and on the edge of the blade, which reflecting the light, sparkle well. On this principle, a check of the quality of sharpening of teeth saws was built. For this, the saw is placed in front of the eyes and examine its teeth along the canvas. If their cutting edges and peaks do not shine, then the teeth of the saw are saturatedly stumbled, and if some of the teeth with brilliance (often it happens), then they need to be undermined by a file with a velvet notch, remove the burrs and again check the reflection of the light with their edges and peaks.

Cross saws. The teeth of the transverse saws are pulled, using a trihedral file with a fine notch with an angle at a top of 60 °.

To sharpen the teeth, the saw is clamped in a special device that allows you to install its canvas at an angle of 45-50 ° to the plane of the desktop. The file is carried out parallel to the desktop at an angle of 60-75 ° to the saw canvas and thus, in the first tooth, the left line is A1A2V2V2.

Sharpen the teeth of the saw in several tricks. First, they pass the files along the left edges of the odd teeth located in the far row, setting up hands on the same movement. Then they pass a file on the right faces of the same odd teeth, completing the sharpening of the main cutting edges with very sharp peaks. After the sharpening of the odd teeth is completed, the saw canvas in the solid device turn over and thus sharpen even teeth, which ended up in the far row. When sharpening the teeth of transverse saws, it is necessary to carefully monitor that the sharp main cutting edges with the dual-sided angle φ = 60-75 °, a short cutting edge and a sharp peak are obtained in each tooth.

Longitudinal saws. The teeth of the longitudinal drank in which the angle π

How to dilute the teeth in a hacksaw on wood

For processing wooden blanks, changes in length and shape, a saw is often used. This tool is represented by a combination of the working part and handle. At the same time, the working part is represented by a metal plate with cutting elements, which are located in a certain sequence relative to each other. Only with proper and timely maintenance can the likelihood of wear of the product be excluded. An example is the wiring of the teeth, which is performed from time to time to ensure the smooth course of the tool on the resulting cut.

Sharpening and wiring saw

The main cutting element of any manual saw. a number of teeth cut on the canvas and representing cutters in the form of wedges. The wood, in the manufacture of all kinds of products from it, is sawn along, across and at an angle θ to its fibers, in this regard, transverse, longitudinal sawing and sawing at an angle to its fibers are distinguished and, in each case, the corresponding type of saw is used, which differs from other forms teeth.

a. transverse sawing; b. longitudinal sawing; one. wood; 2. drank; 3. Flaim for a trimmer of marking for sawing; Θ. The angle of inclination of the marking to the fibers of wood during mixed sawing.

During transverse sawing, transverse saws are used, the cutting edges of the teeth of which, when moving in wood, is interrupted by its fibers as a knife and form a cut. The longitudinal sawing differs from the transverse in that the direction of movement of the saw parallel to wood fibers. The front edges of the teeth of the longitudinal drank string the wood, like knives in the shirts, and, deepening, form a cut. When sawing wood at an angle θ to its fibers, universal (mixed) saws with teeth, which are an intermediate shape of the teeth of transverse and longitudinal saws are used.

Sharpening of the saw

In the process of work, the teeth of the saw are blunt, the cutting front and lateral edges are rounded, the pile of the saw becomes heavy and it is necessary to crush it greatly. Experienced masters in the brilliance of the cutting edges and tops of the teeth and the sound of the saw easily determine its acuteness. To restore the cutting ability of the teeth, they are pulled by files or files, giving them sharpness and preserving their parameters: angles, steps and heights.

Sharpening the teeth drank. In its kind, art, requiring fidelity of hands, good eye, attention. It is not difficult to learn this matter, it is necessary to have a desire and clearly adhere to the following rules:

• The saw canvas must be rigidly fixed in a special device made of wood, which is also steadily installed on a well.lit desktop. Sharpening of teeth drank on stools or knees does not give a satisfactory result.
• You should use a personal file, followed by stripping the sharpened faces of the teeth with velvet (with a small notch) or a file. It is desirable that the file is new, sharp and with a mounted handle. If at the right time it was not the same, then you can use a used, but necessarily cleaned with a steel brush and grated with wood coal, so that the file does not clog and does not stupor. When sharpening the tooth, the file should cling to its metal and remove its layer depending on the strength of pressure. And if it slides down the tooth without removing the metal, then the teeth of the saw are rolled or the file is Istrut. In this case, it is necessary to repeat the sharpening with a new file. If in this case it slides along the tooth, then it remains to take another saw.
• The handle of the file is clamped with the right hand, and its end holds the end with his left hand and the file is directed to the teeth of the saw. About the work of the file, depending on the type of saw, is described below.
• The pressure of the file on the teeth should be smooth and uniform and only one way from itself. When the file is returned to the starting position, he should not touch the teeth.
• We must try to grind the metal from the faces of the teeth of the minimum of the same thickness, the lead of the file is the same number of times with the same pressure, which allows you to maintain the values ​​of the angles, the step and height of the teeth after sharpening.
• On the faces of the tooth from the side of the file of the file, burrs are formed, which reduce the sharpness of the tooth, and if you do not remove it, then during the operation of the saw they are painted, and the teeth are significantly blunt. To remove the burrs, the edges of the teeth are wetted with a file with a velvet notch and the burrs from the side faces with a wet donkey are removed.
• After sharpening the teeth, it is necessary to check their sharpness. Look at the tip of the needles and the edge of the razor blade: they, sharpened, do not shine in the light. And if they lick them, then rounded surfaces appear on the tip of the needles and on the edge of the blade, which reflecting the light, sparkle well. On this principle, a check of the quality of sharpening of teeth saws was built. For this, the saw is placed in front of the eyes and examine its teeth along the canvas. If their cutting edges and peaks do not shine, then the teeth of the saw are saturatedly stumbled, and if some of the teeth with brilliance (often it happens), then they need to be undermined by a file with a velvet notch, remove the burrs and again check the reflection of the light with their edges and peaks.

Cross saws. The teeth of the transverse saws are pulled, using a trihedral file with a fine notch with an angle at a top of 60 °.

To sharpen the teeth, the saw is clamped in a special device that allows you to install its canvas at an angle of 45-50 ° to the plane of the desktop. The file is carried out parallel to the desktop at an angle of 60-75 ° to the saw canvas and thus, in the first tooth, the left line is A1A2V2V2.

Sharpening of the transverse saw: 1. saw canvas; 2. sharpened tooth; four. sharpening device; 5. drain drain; 6, 8. Directions of the file 7 in relation to the desktop and the drained teeth of the saw; 9. Fishing line for trimmering teeth during their divorce

Sharpen the teeth of the saw in several tricks. First, they pass the files along the left edges of the odd teeth located in the far row, setting up hands on the same movement. Then they pass a file on the right faces of the same odd teeth, completing the sharpening of the main cutting edges with very sharp peaks. After the sharpening of the odd teeth is completed, the saw canvas in the solid device turn over and thus sharpen even teeth, which ended up in the far row. When sharpening the teeth of transverse saws, it is necessary to carefully monitor that the sharp main cutting edges with the dual-sided angle φ = 60-75 °, a short cutting edge and a sharp peak are obtained in each tooth.

The shape of the teeth of the hacksaw

According to GOST 26215, adopted in the USSR back in 1984, the teeth of the hacksaw have a configuration depending on the type of canvas:

for transverse sawing. in the form of an isosceles triangle or with one cutting edge; for longitudinal. like a oblique triangle; for universal. in the form of an inclined or rectangular triangle.

Each type applies its secrets and rules how to sharpen the cutting edge.

Why sharpen and when

With constant use of teeth, they lose their severity, the cutting edges wear out, worsening the quality of the saw and increasing the time to complete the task.

Buying a new one will not correct the situation for a long time, and it will take no more than half an hour to restore the old canvas.

Timely sharpening of a hacksaw will restore the cutting ability of the incisors, and will always have a working tool at hand.

Correct the severity of the cutting edges is at the first signs of wear, which can touch the local areas and the entire working surface.

The sizes of the cutting of the incisors are also changing, and this leads to jamming during operation.

How to sharpen a knife on wood at home with your own hands

Wood hacksaw is a tool that every owner has. However, over time, the saw loses its sharpness, which affects its performance and the quality of the cut. Surrender with a hacksaw on wood at home is quite simple, without much effort.

Instructions: how to independently sharpen a hacksaw

Before conducting the process, it is necessary to know that hacksaws on wood from faint steel cannot be sharpened. You can distinguish the material in black with a characteristic blue tint.

It is important to remember that before sharpening the teeth must be diluted.

To sharpen a hacksaw on wood with your own hands, you need to decide on the necessary tool. Files are most often used as a sharpening device, less often. corner grinder.

The process of restoring the acuity of the cutting edge depends on the type of hacksaw. The processing of the transverse saw is carried out as follows:

• The canvas is clamped at an angle of 45 ° in relation to the table.
• The left edge of even incisors is sharpened.
• The blade turns over.
• The left edge of even teeth is pulled.
• Sharp cutting faces and sharp peaks of incisors are formed.

• For processing, a triangular file with fine notch is used.
• 1. wiring; 2. chisel; 3. saw canvas; 4. bars; 5. wedge; 6. support; 7. trihedral file; 8. a square

To sharpen a universal or longitudinal saw, the canvas must be fixed in a vice at an angle of 90 °. For processing, you should use a rhombic file. The tool is held in their hands parallel to the desktop. The rest of the process of processing the cutting edge is similar to sharpening a hacksaw for a transverse saw.

After processing all the teeth on the faces, burrs may remain, the size of which depends on the thickness of the saw canvas. They are eliminated with a small file (with a “velvet” notch), or an abrasive bar of small granularity.

The quality of sharpening can be determined in 2 ways. When checking by the touch, the severity of the teeth, the absence of burrs should be felt. Either check the cutting edges in color: when lighting on them there should not be glare.

An additional test is carried out: during processing, the hacksaw should go smoothly, without the departure to the side; The cut surface should be smooth, without torn wood fibers.

You can sharpen the saw using an angular grinder. For this, the power tool is attached to the desktop. The saw is moved by hand.guide so that each cutter is fed to the sand disk in the same plane.

In this case, it is necessary to set the sharpening depth limiter, which allows you to maintain the same height of the incisors. First, the faces of the odd row of teeth are processed, then. even.

After processing, it is also required to remove the burrs with a file or a donkey.

How to wrap the saw, and what it is

Pilary wiring is a bending of teeth in different directions for a given value.

This is done so that the saw does not jam in the material during the processing process, goes easily and without effort. The larger the beeps of the teeth, the less the risk of staging the canvas in the wood.

However, too wide wiring will negatively affect the cutting process. The maximum value should not exceed 2 mm.

If dry material is cut, then the width of the wiring should be 0.3-0.5 mm, if raw wood is processed, then the extension should be 0.5-1.0 mm.

To perform wiring, you can use special ticks. The required bending is installed on them, after which the tool is set up. The process is carried out quickly and efficiently, but ticks are expensive. Therefore, many use dilutor plates that are emphasis and manual setting.

Before bending, the saw must be securely fixed in a vice. Teeth are processed through one: first one side, then the other. In this case, the extension must be carried out from the middle of the incisor, and not from the base. Otherwise it may break.

General sharpening requirements

The following requirements are imposed on manual sharpening of the teeth on wood:

• For work, it is necessary to use high.quality files (suprafili);
• Files should only be used to process the saw;
• Each tooth should have an equal number of passes, regardless of the shape of the tooth;
• It is forbidden to change the angle of inclination of the file and rotate it during the sharpening process;
• The file must be moved only in one direction, from yourself;
• The face of the tooth should be matte, in the presence of gloss, it is necessary to repeat the sharpening;
• When working, the canvas must be securely fixed in a vice, while the teeth should perform slightly and be located at the same height;
• The workplace should be well lit.

What to consider: Professional advice

• When buying a new saw, many masters make a template on cardboard, which then helps to sparkle a hacksaw later and properly and properly.
• When sharpening, the file should cling to the metal tightly and remove the chips. If it slips, then the tool is not suitable and it must be changed to another.
• Do not carry out wiring with pliers, t.to. The instrument on the smooth angle of inclination will provide.
• So that the hacksaw does not lose sharpness quickly, it is necessary to store it correctly. The saw is hung on the wall on the hook, during transportation is laid in the case.

Why tighten the canvas on a manual hacksaw, and when you need to do it?

The hacksaw during operation is subjected to various loads, as a result of which the teeth are dull. In addition, they change their position. All this leads to the fact that:

• the effectiveness of the use of the tool is reduced;
• It is required to spend more time and effort on the process of cutting;
• The accuracy and quality of the cut is deteriorated (Zapubin forms);
• there is a danger of using a stupid tool.

A method of sharpening a hacksaw on a tree “on a knee

With intensive use, the saw blade wear out sooner or later, as a result of which it loses its former acuity (in other words, it simply becomes stupid), and is no longer able to “bite” the wood as well as before.

If you do not want to interrupt the work for a long time, then in this case there is a simple way to sharpen a hacksaw on wood. And it is very easy to do even at home “on the knee” (if there is an emery. a sharpening machine).

First of all, it is necessary to carry out the wiring of the teeth of the saw. In general, a special tool is intended for this, with which you can bend the teeth under the desired tilt. At home, we can handle a wood hacksaw can easily make a common flat screwdriver.

The main stages of sharpening the saw canvas

Making wiring with a flat screwdriver is quite simple. We insert the edge of the screwdriver between the teeth of the hacksaw on the tree, after which we extend them to the sides with the same movements. We do this operation on both sides of the hacksaw.

Please note that on a smaller tooth such “Focus” with a screwdriver will not work. After wiring, you can start sharpening the teeth themselves. It is better to do this on a machine machine, installing a diamond circle with 100×80 grain on it. First we pass one side, then the other. When sharpening it is necessary to perform all movements extremely neatly.

You can familiarize yourself with this method of sharpening a knife hacksaw at home by watching a short video below.

Appointment and device

For sawing, two.handed and one.handed saws are used. The former are quite rare. Electric devices are more often used. One.handed are used often.

Fabric. a knife with a large number of teeth. On the one hand, ends with the handle, for which they are held when performing operations.

Khdosovka can be used when working with a laminate, a wood-piece stove, for sawing logs, trees trunks, carpentry operations and so on.

For quick work, long blades with large teeth are used. For neatly. with small. For sawing along. with inclined teeth, for the transverse. with straight.

The machine is used to sharpen the hacksaw.

Sharpening of the teeth of the saw

You know how a poorly sharpened knife, cuts a loaf of fresh Bukhankaa? That’s what your saw (albeit well.diluted) birch logs will be sawed. That is. nothing!

We recommend: working with a brick cutting machine

How to sharpen our saw correctly? There is nothing easier! We take the usual trihedral file (we think he will find each self-respecting master), and we make all the same simple monograms-a clove-to-hose, a clove-to-subble, from the base to the top, from the “foundation of the pyramid” to its peak. The teeth of the saw must be focused with each of its vertices.

Having done these simple manipulations, in the pure remnant we get a tool ready to use, which, “without ado” can be attached to the implementation of any, even the most daring undertakings!

Yes, and one more advice. do not forget to care for your tool. Keep it always clean and order, take care of moisture, periodically lubricate, and it will serve you with faith and truth for many years.

How to sharpen a hacksaw on wood and dilute the teeth

Kroba of different types are used in the performance of everyday work in personal plots, dachas, as well as during repairs in which natural wood is used as the main material. The saw requires periodic maintenance. At a certain moment, you need to sharpen a hacksaw on wood, because it began to fulfill its function worse than before. In order not to spoil the canvas and return the instrument to the former performance, you need to follow a few simple tips.

How to determine the moment when it is time to sharpen the hacksaw

In order not to shorten the service life of the canvas of the hacksaw, you need to sharpen it only when it can no longer perform a high.quality cut, or requires more effort while working with it. The main signs of a blown saw can be called the following:

• The ends of the teeth were rounded, their shape was distorted;
• The sound of the saw has changed: there was a feeling that the wood is not cut, but is torn through the fibers;
• The speed of the cut decreased compared to the new hacksaw;
• In the section began to appear in the cuts and bullying;
• the hacksaw periodically closes even with a flat crus.

If at least one of the listed signs appears, then the manual saw needs to be maintained. It refers to both the direct sharpening of the teeth and their correct wiring.

Varieties of teeth

The most common in manual saws are these forms of teeth:

• dagger tooth. It is used in classical wide and narrow hacksaws, as well as in ray saws. The tooth is made in the form of an isosceles triangle, therefore, such hacksaws can work in both directions. The divorce of teeth most often equals 1/3 of the thickness of the canvas to the side. The teeth are divorced by the same value in different directions through one. This type of wiring is intended for transverse sawing, as it is aimed at gaping wood fibers. The longitudinal cut is almost impossible, since the tooth does not destroy, but breaks down the fibers, which means that it stuck between them
• A chirper.shaped tooth. Made in the form of an asymmetric rectangular triangle. Most often, such teeth have shoe saws and hacksaws-horses. There is a saw with such teeth in only one direction. The top of the tooth is sharpened across the canvas, for this reason it acts similarly. Used exclusively for transverse sawing, because with longitudinal it clings to the fibers
• A oblique universal tooth. Is something between the two species described above. Form. asymmetric triangle, which is inclined in the direction of the saw, but to a smaller angle of sawing. The front edge is pulled under 60 ° to the canvas. Such sharpening makes it possible to use a saw for both longitudinal and transverse sawing. Such teeth are equipped with sprouting saws
• a tooth with a staged vertex. It turns out due to additional processing of the dagger or oblique universal tooth by partial grinding of the top of the triangle. As a result, three additional cutting edges are obtained, which make the saw more universal for the implementation of different types of cut
• Japanese tooth. Created in the form of a reverse wedge, that is, the thick part of the saw canvas is closer to the workpiece, which means that this saw does not need wiring. The tooth has an acute angle of sharpening and a fairly large height to ensure maximum sawing efficiency
• Jet-cut. Dagger sawed teeth are combined into groups of eight pieces, while six of them are divorced, and the last two were not
• Wolf tooth. A very interesting shape that is used to work with raw wood, the fibers of which are difficult to destroy.

DIY hand

If you correctly replace the usual gasoline engine of the saw with strong hands, you can get a compact and universal tool for cutting firewood or trimming trees. Next, we will talk about how to make a hand saw from a chain from a chainsaw.

In order to make such a device you need:

• ragged or old chain from a motorcycle
• Small nylon straps
• Waxing flax thread
• nylon cord
• Fat needle
• chain cut.

First of all, you need to cut the chain. It is necessary to start with cutting one link in the chain to break the loop. The chain saw is made of hardened instrumental steel, so it will not be easy to cut it. There is no connecting link on such a circuit, so you just can’t do it. You can use a strip saw. In the absence of such a machine, you need to arm yourself with a file or an abrasive disk. Of course, such work will take a decent amount of time.

After the chain is cut, its ends must be inserted into small straps from the nylon tube. It is necessary to cut off a piece of braid 18 inches long and melt the ends with a match or lighter, to preserve them from abrasion. After that, you just need to insert the end of the chain by about 6 inches in the braid.

Next, you need to sew the handles of a home.made hand saw using waxed linen thread. You need to flash around the chain most tightly so that it does not slip out of the strap. It is worth wrapping the second edge of the strap around the hand, to form a rather large loop for your hand.

The next step is to turn the pens with a nylon cord. Unfortunately, the linen thread is not so strong as to hold the chain with prolonged use, so the edges of the straps should also be securely fixed with a nylon cord. You can use the method of the school node in order to maintain a tight winding of the cord along the entire length of the wrapper.

After that, your home.made saw will be completely ready for use. It can be used alone or with an assistant, it all depends on the dimensions of the cut wood. To work, you need to wrap the chain on the desired branch and pull it from side to side for the handle.

Today you learned about what a manual saw on wood is. Its price depends on the functionality and manufacturer.

Definition of the right moment

Without experience, people often hit the extreme to the extreme and either sharpen the saw every few days, or once a year. Determine the need to sharpen the time. the wrong approach.

There are a number of signs that indicate that the teeth are dull:

• The canvas regularly stuck in wood.
• When sawing, the sound changes, it becomes more “dumb”.
• The shade of the teeth is changing.

• The resistance of the material is significantly increased.
• The ends of the teeth are noticeably rounded.
• The blade leaves the cut line.

Lacking instructions

First you need to prepare equipment necessary for work:

To make sharpening better, you can prepare additional tools:

Wiring

Before returning the sharpness of the saw, you need to configure the teeth, that is, dilute them. Wiring is the installation of cutting teeth at a certain angle relative to the canvas and each other. If you look at the diluted saw, it is clear that they, alternating, deviate to the right and left of the plate plate itself. Such a configuration gives a hacksaw freedom in a deep cut. She does not get stuck, because it does not apply to the walls with the entire plane.

In order to “by eye” to set the right corner for every teeth, you need a solid experience that not every carpenter has. He comes after many dozens of sharpened saws. For less experienced carpenters, there is a tool called wiring. Its most primitive option is a flat steel plate with a slot. In this slot with a minimum clearance, a hacksaw is inserted into a stretch.

The wiring process looks like this:

• Fix a hacksaw in a vice so. It is necessary to ensure that the teeth of 2 cm protruding over the lips.
• The teeth are clamped in the groove, after which they are bent in the middle.
• First, you need to bend in one direction all the clock teeth, then in the opposite direction to bend the odd.
• In the end, you can dilute the sponges of the width of the calculated width and try to draw a saw between them.
• Excessively bent tooth will touch the vice. Bend it with pliers a little stronger.

Toer fit in height

All cutting protrusions should be the same in size so that the performance of sawing does not deteriorate. Longer teeth experience heavy loads and are erased faster, while short do not even touch wood. The canvas becomes a jerk, uneven, is spent more effort. The accuracy of the cut is deteriorated, the cut surface becomes more rough.

Fitting is carried out before the start of sharpening. Make sure that none of the teeth protrudes, you can like this: press the canvas to a sheet of paper laid on the table.

The tops of the teeth are printed on the sheet, and by gaps in this pattern it will be possible to adjust their height. To do this, in a locksmith grip, click the saw and flow too long teeth.

Sharpening directly

To return tooths of former severity, a bar with which the kitchen knives is sharpened is not suitable. We need a special tool: a file with a triangular section or a file. It is very good if there are several files with a different cross.section and pitch of the notch: this will perfectly process each tooth.

• With one hand, take the file by the handle, and put the other on the end of the tool.
• Decide on the sharpening angle. Usually it is 15-30 °. You can determine it by eye, a transporter or use a simple technique. Give a wooden bar the shape of an isosceles triangle with angles of 90, 60 and 30 degrees, then use it as a measure.
• Studge the left cutting faces of the chasing (distant from you) teeth. For each it is required to take an equal number of files of the file to remove the same amount of shavings. The pressure on the tool should be the same strength.
• Turn the hacksaw with the other side, then again focus on the left edges of the clock teeth.
• Point the tops of the teeth.
• Do not forget to control the angle of sharpening using the bar.

The process seems very simple, albeit monotonous, but there are a number of nuances:

• You need to fix the saw in a vice very tightly for security purposes. Do not be afraid to damage the metal of the canvas with strong compression.
• The workplace should be well lit so that it is easier to determine the corners and sharpness.
• The metal is removed only when the file moves in the direction from the carpenter.
• The stronger the saw was blown, the larger the notch on the file can be, but to finish the teeth you always need to take a file with small notches.

• When fixing the tool in a vice, put it between the lips as deep as possible. To prevent hacking tape, only the teeth should remain outside.
• In the process of working on the lined faces, there will inevitably be burrs. To remove them, it is enough to spend the metal with fine.grained abrasive (sandpaper).
• To check the quality, you need to carefully consider the teeth in the light. They should shine.

How to dilute and sharpen a manual saw

When working with a tree, a tool like a hand saw or a hacksaw is often used. Over time, the canvas wears out, as a result of which the process of sawing becomes more difficult. In this case, it is necessary to divide the saw. This procedure lies in the fact that the teeth are extended in different directions by manually or automatically.

This is best done on special equipment. a divorce machine. With the help of the indicator, you can determine the correct deviation of the tooth, so you can work in a matter of minutes.

If the machine is difficult to find, you can dilute the hacksaw manually. However, a lot of effort and time will take a lot of time and time, besides, you can not do without a special tool. wiring, which can be made on its own. It is a metal plate with a sawn groove of 1.5mm and a height of 5mm. The saw is clamped in a vice and this groove is captured by the tooth of the instrument and diverted in the right direction.

You need to do this in a certain order. First, the teeth are rejected one in one direction, then the rest in the other. There should not be distortions, and teeth should be bent symmetrically. Not the entire tooth is bent, but only its top (that is, its third part), otherwise it may break. The width of the wiring should be equal to the two.time thickness of the canvas, if the teeth are diluted too wide, then the hacksaw will go tight, and too much wood will go into the sawdust. In addition, with an incorrect divorce, the tool will “wedge” and a flat cut will not work.

Another saw can be diluted using a screwdriver or chisel. The tool is placed between the teeth and rotate it, the saw should also be squeezed before this.

How to sharpen a hand saw

After divorce, the saw must be sharpened. This procedure does not require special equipment, here you can do with an ordinary triangular file. Sharpening technique with this tool is as follows. The file is taken with one hand by the handle, the other by the tip of the tool and move from themselves, pressing on the teeth smoothly and evenly, then in the opposite direction, without touching the teeth. The teeth of a hand saw must be focused on both sides, from the top to the base.

After sharpening on the faces of the teeth, burrs can form, which will negatively affect the work of the tool, dyeing and blunt teeth. They must be removed with a file with a fine notch.

During operation, the saw is blunting, so sometimes the teeth are undermined by an emery bar. Constant sharpening levels the wiring so that the saw is preserved in working condition, the dentitions must be periodically repeated. However, conducting capital wiring and sharpening of teeth is not required too often.