How to replace a wood saw. The best hacksaw in general: Lenox Tools High-Tension 12-Inch
Knife from a hacksaw on wood: step.By.Step instructions for yourself
Want to create a unique knife? You need a wood cutter or a sharp blade for hunting? Make a good product with your own hand more than real. The main thing is to have the skill of working with metal and know what you want.
We make a knife: where to start?
First prepare all the necessary details and tools, add them in one place. Decide which material you will use. If you need a sharp and strong product. Make a knife from a saw.
Take the workpiece. Wood or metal saw canvas is best suited for these purposes. As a material for the manufacture of a handle for a blade, use a tree (any, at your request), textolite, plexiglass.
What tools will be needed in the process of making a knife?
To start work and make a knife from a saw on metal, you will need:
- Electric sharpener;
- Electric drill;
- Paste for polishing surfaces;
- Copper or aluminum for rivets.
How to make a workpiece?
Let’s figure out how to make a knife from a saw. Prepare a metal canvas for making a blade. Draw on it the workpiece of the future tool, using a marker for these purposes.
Remember that the knife is considered a cold weapon if the length of the blade exceeds 2/3 of the total length of the product. If you are incorrectly designed a knife from a saw and it is regarded as a cold weapon. Wait for the punishment.
Having outlined the contour of the future product, take up the shape of the form. It is important to draw a shape so that the cutting part of the future product is placed in the area of the teeth of the saw. Due to the cutting of the saw, if you do the butt in this place, you will have to do additional work to grind the bulge.
What needs to be taken into account when starting work
Do not start gritting a knife without training. Take a regular piece of metal and try to process it. To spoil the piece of iron is not as scary as losing a good blank. You must not only regulate the pressure of pressure when turning, but also monitor the temperature so as not to overheat iron. High temperature not only spoils the type of metal. Even if it does not change externally, its structure can seriously suffer: the metal will become much softer and more fragile. A knife from a circular saw made of low.Quality metal will have to be sharpened more often.
To check whether iron has begun to overheat, drop a couple of drops of water to the workpiece. If she immediately evaporates, rather cool the workpiece for the future blade. To avoid possible troubles associated with overheating of the metal, put a container of water near the machine and periodically cool the future knife from the saw.
Working with the workpiece
Having formed the basis of the future knife, proceed to the most important and complex stage of work. The removal of the descents. Descent is a surface on a knife, smoothly narrowing towards the blade. The purpose of the knife directly determines the angle and the width of the descents. Therefore, choose the average value if you want to get a universal knife from the saw.
Before starting work on the machine, draw the proposed descent on the metal canvas using a marker for this. Grind carefully, slowly, so as not to spoil the future knife. It is recommended, as in the previous step, to practice on a spare part. Descents should be symmetrical and lie at the same angle from both sides. In this case, the blade should be nobility: leave the indent about 0.25 mm.
To hone the blade, use sandpaper. For such purposes, sandpaper 8-10 stiffness numbers is best suited. It is better to sharpen a knife from a saw on metal on a wooden bar. To prepare an impromptu sharpener, take a bar and glue the sandpaper to it.
Using large sandpaper, you will give the blade the necessary severity, and taking a smaller one, polish the metal blade completely.
At the final stage of processing, polish the blade. Pull the same wooden block with felt or skin, grate with gog paste and polish until you reach the desired effect.
How to make a knife handle
The easiest way to glue a handle of two cut and prepared pieces of wood or plexiglass. It is much easier to make it than fix it on a knife tail. Naturally, you can choose an unpretentious option and wrap the handle with electrical tape, but why try so much in order to ultimately spoil the aesthetic appearance of a knife?
And then the most crucial stage of work comes. Since you will have to drill in the shank of the knife, the canvas can easily burst. So be vigilant and careful.
Steel is solid, but at the same time fragile material. With a uniform pressure distribution, when the saw is in work, it is almost impossible to break it. But with point drilling, the pressure increases, and the metal can easily split. Therefore, it is better to drill a hole at low speeds of the machine and do not forget to add oil to the drilling place. In this case, a screwdriver is an ideal tool for fulfilling the set target, since it has less speed, then the possibility of breaking the part is not so high.
Having completed the previous step and making holes in the handle, drill the same in the halves of the handle. Make a copper or aluminum rivet. For insurance you can glue the area where there will be a rivet, glue, but it is better if you have epoxy resin.
Is it possible to simplify the process?
Masters say that the hole can be done without the use of drilling tools. The blade with the shank is covered with a layer of varnish. Where there should be a hole, you need to clean the surface of the varnish. Place the knife from the saw on the wood in the electrolyte solution and lower the wire with a negative charge into the container with the blank, and connect the positive to the power source, as which you can use the usual battery.
As a result of such an effect, you get a hole in the metal, however, it will not be perfectly round, but it will definitely not be possible to damage the blade in this way.
Other methods of processing parts
If for some reason you can’t make a knife from a saw on a metal, there is no necessary material-replace it. A car spring is well suited for making a blade, the metal of which is softer than that of a saw. To process such a workpiece, you do not have to use the sharpener, but you will need a saw for metal to cut out the shape of the blade. Since the metal is easier to process, the edges of the workpiece can be fitted with a file. This way will have to work on the manufacture of a knife longer, because each processing stage includes manual work.
Device and principle of action
The principle of operation of the end, disk and pendulum saw is the same, their differences only in the design expressed in the method of use (mobile or stationary), as well as the types of disks used. The main elements of the end of the tree are given in the following figure.
Design and basic elements of the product
The work of the end is carried out as follows:
- When the voltage is supplied to the electric engine, it begins to rotate, and its rotational movement is transmitted to the mechanical gear;
- The gearbox shaft has a seat on which a saw disk is installed;
- The disk begins to rotate with the gear shaft after the voltage supply to the electric motor;
- For the safety of use, the saw disc is closed with a protective casing;
- To bring into contact with the workpiece, the handle is used, and to return to the original state. A return spring;
- The reliability of fixation on the working surface provides a bed, on which the elements of fixation of the workpiece (turning table, stops, insert, etc. Are placed elements.D.);
- The device is turned on and off using control buttons (not shown in the figure), as well as protection tools (from jamming and current of the short circuit, overheating and other emergency situations).
Washed up with piercing wooden products using a end saw significantly increases labor productivity in this operation, especially on the scale of a large construction site
The need for sharpening
Sharpening of discs for a circular saw is required when the work becomes impossible. This can be understood by three signals:
- Heating the protective casing. Smoke appears from under it, leaves the cutting zone.
- The need for additional efforts when serving at the time of cutting.
- When a tree with a cutting metal comes in contact, a burn appears and smell.
Geometry of carbide tooths
The carbide tooth has four working planes. The front (a), the rear (b), and two auxiliary side (c). Crossing each other, these planes form the cutting edges. The main (1) and two auxiliary (2 and 3). The above determination of the faces and edges of the tooth is given in accordance with GOST 9769-79.
The following types of teeth are distinguished by form.
It is usually used in saws for longitudinal fast sawing, in which quality does not matter much.
With the left and right angle of inclination of the posterior plane. Teeth with different angles of inclination alternate with each other, which is why they are called alternately, scrape. This is the most common tooth form. Depending on the size of the angles of sharpening, saws with alternately, a slotted tooth are used for sawing a variety of materials (wood, chipboard, plastics). Both in the longitudinal and transverse direction. Saws with a large angle of inclination of the posterior plane are used as subcutaneous when cutting plates with bilateral lamination. Their use avoids coating chips on the edges of the cut. An increase in the angle of bevel reduces the cutting force and reduces the danger of chips, but at the same time reduces the resistance and strength of the tooth.
Teeth can be tilt not only the rear, but also the front plane.
Oblique tooth with a beveled front plane
A feature of these teeth is a relatively slow speed of the cutting edges in comparison with alternate.Slipped teeth. Usually they are used in combination with a straight tooth.
Alternating with the latter and slightly towering over it, a trapezoidal tooth performs a black saw, and a straight line, the following is a final. Saws with alternating straight and trapezoidal teeth are used to cut stides with bilateral lamination (chipboard, MDF, etc.), as well as for sawing plastics.
Saws with a conical tooth are auxiliary and are used to cut the lower layer of laminate, protecting it from chips when the main saw passes through.
In the vast majority of cases, the front faces of the teeth have a flat shape, but there are saws with a concave front line. They are used for finishing transverse sawing.
Sharpening angles of teeth
There are four main angles of sharpening of the disc saw, which along with the shape of the tooth determine its characteristics. This is the front angle (γ), the rear (α) and the angles of the bead of the front and rear planes (ε1 and ε2). The angle of pointing (β) has an auxiliary value, since it is set by the front and rear angles (β = 90 °.-γ-α).
The values of the sharpening angles are determined by the purpose of the saw. T.E. Those for cutting what material and in which direction it is intended. Pilas for longitudinal sawing have a relatively large front angle (15 °.25 °). In the saw of transverse saw, the angle γ usually ranges from 5-10 °. Universal saws designed for transverse and longitudinal sawing have an average value of the front angle. Usually 15 °.
The sizes of sharpening angles are determined not only by the direction of the saw, but also by the hardness of the sawed material. The higher the hardness, the less the front and the rear angles (less to the tooth is less).
The front angle can be not only positive, but also negative. Saws with this angle are used for cutting non.Ferrous metals and plastics.
Do.It.Yourself disk saw repair
When starting to repair the unit with your own hands, it is not necessary to disassemble it completely to clarify the reasons for the breakdown. Some malfunctions are characterized by specific symptoms by which you can determine the problem and already purposefully disassemble this or that part of the device.
The saw does not turn on
If when you press the start button, the engine of the unit “is silent”, then the first thing to FOCUS on is to FOCUS on is network cable, Provided that there is electricity in the outlet (to check, connect the device to another outlet).
Advice! Before checking the cable, you need to disassemble the electric fork and make sure that the cord conductors are connected to its pins.
To check the electric cable, you need to disconnect the handle. This will help to get to the contacts to which the wires of the network cord are soldered. Further, with the help of a tester, call each wire, pressing one probe to the soldered contact, and the second. To the pin of the fork.
If the network cable is intact, then in search of a malfunction do the following.
- Blind the entire chain, starting from the cable entrance to the unit to the launch button. You should also check the contacts of the button at its input and output with the key pressed. In normal condition, the torn chain should be closed. Call everything Wires after the button, engaging to engine brushes.
- If everything is in order with the conductors, check how much Electrodes of brushes are worn out. After wear of the electrode 2/3 of the initial size, it should be replaced. Brushes, regardless of how much each of them has worn out, change in pairs.
- If the brushes are in good condition, then most likely, The engine failed. In his windings, a cliff or inter.Flood.Circuit could occur. In this case, it is better to entrust the engine repair to specialists who will rewind the stator coils or anchor.
The engine heats up
The unit can heat up excessively, for example, when its intensive use, as well as when sawing hard wood or the use of a saw disk with a large number of teeth, when the load on the engine increases significantly. Also caused by overheating of the malfunctioning motor associated with the Windows of the stator and anchor, which are eliminated only in the service center.
Brushes are burning
Strong sparking from under the brushes is caused their excessive wear, when the spring can no longer press the electrodes to the collector with the required force. To replace the brushes, you need to disconnect the engine cover or remove them through special holes in the engine housing (depending on the power plant model).
Jammed the shaft during operation
This malfunction may happen when for any reason, a stopper is pressed during the tool. It is designed to fix the shaft when replacing equipment and should be used after a complete stop of the engine. Otherwise, the Stop Stop rod breaks down, and its debris fall into the engine, causing jamming. There are frequent cases when this leads to deformation of the shaft of the anchor. Also, the consequence of pressing on the stopper can be the split of the gearbox body, the fragments of which can damage the gears and provoke their jamming. To solve the problem, you will need to replace the anchor, a stopper leading (large) gear of the gearbox and its body.
The saw stops in the process
The engine stops in most cases causes the cavity worn electrical brushes. Когда контакт между электродом щетки и ламелями коллектора нарушается, происходит выключение агрегата.
Often, when buying brushes for this device, products with short conductor, connecting the electrode to the plate. This conductor is located inside the spring and does not allow it to be completely imprisoned. Когда электрод изнашивается до определенной длины, то прижим его к коллектору прекращается, поскольку этому препятствует короткий проводник. If you, examining the brush, find that it is not yet worn out and the spring is not unclenched, then the part should be replaced.
The gearbox body is very hot
Rapid heating of the gearbox occurs if The bearing of the shaft has become unusable, on which the gear is fixed and the equipment is attached. In this case, in addition to heating, you can replace the appearance of extraneous noises in this unit node. It is necessary to disassemble the gearbox and change the bearing. The gearbox will also heat up if in it Not enough lubrication or it is completely absent.
Advice! Periodically, you should disassemble the gearbox and check the presence of lubrication. If necessary, refill with lubrication the internal space of the node. For these purposes, you can use a special lubricant for gearbox gearboxes.
The saw does not gain power
If during the use of the unit you noticed a drop in its power, then it is first recommended Check the voltage level on the network. Sometimes even a slight drop can negatively affect the power of the power tool.
Also, power loss can be observed with wear of the bearings of the anchor or the gearbox. In this case, extraneous noises will be heard, previously not characteristic of this unit. By their localization, you can determine where the problem bearing is located. In the gearbox or engine. To replace bearings, you will need to disassemble the disk saw. How to do this was described above.
If during the operation of the unit is not heard, the engine still poorly develops momentum and power, then pay attention to its collector. Usually on it you can see a circular spark (fire ring). This can happen due to the inter-flip closing of the anchor coil or the accumulation of dirt between the collector lamps.
Expand the engine housing and carefully inspect the collector (the place where the electrodes of the brushes glide). It consists of parallel stripes (lamellas). There is a small gap between them. When this gap clogs conductive graphite dust, the brushes formed during wear, then a short circuit occurs between the lamels, and a burning ring around them appears.
What these thoughts led to.
To begin with, I began to sort through the available tools: a jigsaw. It is impossible, it will break; Electro.Burning is also not recommended; Drill. But the drill is suitable! Rather grabbed a drill, carry and went to the garden.
The idea is simple: a drill can be inhabited by many holes in the barrel (this is how to saw, only from the inside), and then help yourself a folding hacksaw a little.
So, let’s get down! Substitute in all possible directions the barrel.
Now we shake it, suddenly they have already been quite inhabited)
Hurray, it fell!
A nightmare, and this is called “Gardener”! Rejoices like a child that he dumped his own tree! Where the world rolls.
Now it is necessary to process the barrel with urea in order to overheat faster. To do this, you need to inhibit more holes in the trunk and fill the urea in them so that the tree is reinforced faster.
After each hole, you need to blow the sawdust, otherwise it will be impossible to find them and fall asleep urea.
What is it?
This is now my package, as it is, kar-b-min! I hope the hostess will not be needed So, Cloud, come on a package!
Will not give it back! Never!
I had to promise her a trip to the home theater at the Irony of Fate 🙂
Cinema Cloud respects, a package with carbamide was conquered.
Poured without a toad and trimmed a boot 🙂 no less 🙂
How to sharpen a garden saw?
Quite often, with the regular performance of the trim of trees, the teeth of the drain can be dull, so it is important to know how to sharpen the main tool of the gardener. It is also necessary from time to time to Nature cloves, this, in turn, will noticeably extend the service life of the product. Only hand saws with hardened teeth can be an exception, they are not amenable to sharpening.
If teeth are in normal condition, then they are sharpened symmetrically. It is important to fix the saw canvas so that it does not move in different directions. To do this, there is a special box where a saw is clamped between the thick strips, while the teeth are slightly protruding over the edge and each can be sharpened separately.
How to use a hacksaw
Before you sharpen the garden saw, you should stock up on the necessary tool. For this you will need: a trihedral file, a handmade box, a screwdriver and a clamp. If the saw has small teeth, then the file should be with an angle of pointing 30 degrees, for larger teeth. 75 degrees. The saw will be fixed by a clamp. At the same time, the working area with the teeth diluted does not need to be squeezed. You need to sharpen until all the cloves are built into one even line. It is also worth processing every gap.
So that the saw does not stop often, you can spread the teeth with wax. This will not only preserve the severity of the teeth for a long time, but also protect them from rust.
How to choose a hacksaw on wood: select a manual saw correctly
In the arsenal of a home master, there is always a functional and convenient disk electric saw in work.
But there are situations when it is required to saw off the part and perform a small amount of wood work, and there is no time to deploy and connect the unit or desire. In these cases, a manual hacksaw perfectly saves.
But how to choose a hand hacksaw on wood so that it is convenient in work and easily “gnaw” any wood species, consider in more detail.
Technical characteristics of the tool
The saw is rightfully considered the ancestor of a large family of manual instruments. Since the creation of the first type of saw from iron, many changes have undergone a lot of changes, having managed to acquire numerous “sisters” capable of doing dozens of work.
In the household it is impossible to do without “toothy assistants”: they are indispensable when pruning the garden, small carpentry and carpentry work
Manual wood saws differ in many respects in many ways: the size of the canvas, the brand of steel, the shape of the teeth, the design of the handle. Let us dwell on each parameter in more detail.
How should be a hacksaw?
The main detail of the tool is a hacksaw. The first thing to pay attention to when choosing a product is the length of the canvas. The possibilities of its application largely depend on this parameter. At the same time, the longer the canvas, the larger it is, which also complicates the process especially when working with solid wood, such as ash, maple or oak.
A long move makes it possible to make less effort when sawing, since a large number of teeth are performed in one stroke
For sawing small elements such as skirting boards, bars or narrow rails, you can get by a hacksaw with a length of a canvas 25-30 cm. When planning to use the tool when performing more serious construction work, choose a product with a canvas of 45-50 cm.
The teeth of a short hacksaw will sear inside the wood, and to promote the tool for free from sawdust, everyone will have to make a lot of effort.
Uncomfortable work will cause premature fatigue.
Traditionally, the width of the canvas of the product varies in the range of 10-20 cm. Models with a narrower canvas are not allowed for technical reasons, since they fail at the slightest bend. But it should be borne in mind that too wide canvases are inconvenient for handmade.
For hacksaws, instrumental alloy steel with a high content of silicon and carbon of brands is used:
Metal hardening is carried out due to the effect of an alternating magnetic field on it, in which an electric current of high frequency appears. Spreading on the surface, it heats the surface layer of metal, which after cooling is tempered.
The standard parameter is considered to be the hardness of the metal of 45 HRC, but it is still preferable to choose products whose solidness is 55-60 HRS. A hacksaw with a high.Speed canvas will have sufficient flexibility, but at the same time high stability of the teeth. During an external examination, such a tool can be determined by a dark shade of sharpened teeth.
Roads on the canvas
The determining indicator of the performance of the tool and accuracy of the cut of wood is the size of the teeth.
The teeth of a hacksaw for wood work perform a double function: wood is cut and sawdust is removed in parallel with this
The accuracy of the sawing is determined by the indicator of “tpi”- the number of teeth per inch.
There is a reverse dependence between these technical parameters:
- Fabric with large teeth set the high speed of work, but the sawing cut is rough and sloppy;
- Carefers with small teeth guarantee a clean and accurate cut, but at a relatively low speed of work.
When determining the required size of the teeth, you should FOCUS on the type of material processed. For example, for working with chipboard, where high cut accuracy is required, choose a tool with a high indicator of “TPI” 7-9, and for sawing logs and work in a garden where the cutting of the cut is not so significant-“tpi” 3-6.
When choosing the optimal hacksaw option, be guided by the rule that the minimum log thickness should be in any case more than a step of three teeth
If we compare a hot and ordinary tooth, then the difference is that in the first version, subject to domestic use, the product does not stupid for a long time. But a hacksaw with a hardened tooth can no longer be sharpened. When she becomes poorly sawing, she will just have to be thrown away.
Three types of hand hacksaws are distinguished depending on the type of teeth used:
- For longitudinal sawing. The products are equipped with teeth in the form of a oblique triangle and look like hooks externally. The tool allows you to cut wood along the fibers. Such saws have sharpening on both sides of the tooth, due to which they are able to cut both when passing forward and in the opposite direction.
- For transverse sawing. The teeth of the tools are made in the form of isosceles triangles. Such a design allows you to easily cut the material both when conducting the cutting edge forward and in the opposite direction. But this type of tooth is suitable only for working with dry blanks, but not fresh wood.
- For mixed sawing. Products have a combined composition in which the triangular edges are combined with slightly elongated semicircular zazubs. This solution allows when moving the hand forward to the semicircular teeth to perform the guide cut, and when returning. Triangular to expand the canal, removing the chips and sawdust from it.
Step.By.Step instructions for the manufacture of a cutting machine from a grinder
In a home workshop, each amateur of a home.Made man always has a Ushm (angle grinding machine) in the arsenal). This tool is almost indispensable, as it can perform many functions. Over, if the owner has additional accessories, its capabilities are significantly expanding. Homemade grinding machines are of great popularity, as they are easy to manufacture and do not differ in the bulky structure.
Choosing the best hacksaw for wood, rating 11 models by quality
What are the differences in high.Quality and bad hacksaw? Low quality can be seen on poorly sharpened teeth.
Sometimes manufacturers deceive, and make the teeth in appearance seem sharp, but after a few works they will dull. A good hacksaw, on the contrary, is made of such steel that will hold the sharpness for a long time.
The review draws a rating of the best hacksaws for wood work, the features of the choice and function are indicated.
The main goal of the hacksaw on wood is to cut wooden materials. Canvas, teeth, handle are included. The canvas is a working part of the tool.
Wood sawing is divided into several types. The first is the separation into parts of dry materials, that is, boards, logs, plywood and other rubbish. The second type is the pruning of the garden, ennoble other trees.
The following materials are also processed:
Criteria for choosing a hacksaw on wood
When choosing, you should be guided by the following criteria:
- Dimensions and shape of the teeth, as well as the length of their step;
- Handle configuration;
- What material can saw (oak, cherry, brushwood);
- The length of the canvas.
The shape of the handle will affect the comfort of the work. This parameter is the main one in intensive classes. In order not to grate the corns, use gloves.
Length and size of the canvas
The average length of the canvas is from 350 to 600 millimeters. The choice depends on the thickness of the tree itself, which you plan to saw. Try to choose the average length. For example, if you saw too short canvas, then spend more time on the cut, and if too long, it will begin to spring after half the traveled path.
The length should be 2 times larger than the diameter of the workpieces. In this case, the minimum workpiece thickness should be a step of three teeth.
The size and shape of the teeth
The whole process of work depends on this parameter. There are hot/irreparable teeth. Uncassed cloves can always be sharpened if the owner has certain skills. Hard teeth have greater reliability. After wear, their sharpening is impossible.
Teeth are divided into small, medium, large. The speed/accuracy of the cut. According to this parameter, the degree of efficiency of the cut of wood is determined. The high accuracy of the work is provided by a small tooth. To quickly cut the materials, a large tooth is perfect, however, accuracy and quality will suffer.
Medium.Sized teeth received dimensions from 3 to 3.5 mm. Large teeth can be sawed logs. Their length is from 4 to 6 mm.
Differences of the incisors in appearance
There are several types of wood hacksaws. They are determined by the appearance of the teeth:
- Performs the functions of longitudinal sawing. With such teeth, trees are cut along the fibers. Teeth will be in the form of a oblique triangle.
- For dry wood, a transverse hacksaw is used.
- Triangular teeth are suitable for rare use. These teeth regularly change with semicircular. Suitable for mixed wood sawing.
- For high speed, it is recommended to purchase a saw with teeth in the form of a trapezoid. The owner will cut it quickly and not get tired.
The design can be of a variety of configurations and sizes. So, they highlight the following designs:
- Narrow. Saw small blanks that have a thickness of no more than 10 mm. Also cut out curved parts and branches in the garden. A canvas with narrow triangular teeth is installed here.
- Standard hacksaw. Any teeth can be installed. They are equipped with interchangeable sets of canvases. This is convenient when performing carpentry.
- Hacksaws equipped with a leap.
- Khosuovka with award has two pens. A little reminiscent of the shirts. Designed for cutting grooves in wood.
- The canvas in the form of an arc is represented on a knife.Like hack. It helps a lot where you need to perform complex cuts.
- Folding hacksaws with small teeth are suitable for lovers of outdoor activities. Fans of tourism/fishing positively evaluate them. Other species are light/compact. Outwardly resembles a folding knife.
- Garden manual saw.
- Two.Handed saw for two people (transverse).
- Chain manual saw for tourist campaigns.
Type of the handle
This parameter determines the convenience of working with the tool. If the handle is made of two parts, then the use will be less comfortable, since it does not have a sufficient level of rigidity.
Universal or manual saws are equipped with handicraft handles, where in the process the canvas is required in the process. Next, consider what kind of hacksaw on wood will be better.
The best new wood hacksaw models are presented below.
Gross Piranha 24106 450 mm
High.Quality hacksaw at an affordable price. It can be purchased for 900 rubles. The model is equipped with a fixed handle. Differs in hardened teeth and Teflon coating.
The length of the canvas is 450 mm, and step 11-12.
One of the cheapest wood hacksaw. Its cost is about 600 rubles. The teeth are hardened, and their step is 11. Equipped with a fixed handle. Only a tree is processed with a canvas of 500 mm long. Dawed with hardened teeth received a longitudinal-transverse direction. There is also a 3D sharpening function.
Hack Saws, Review Comparison
Small teeth allow you to do the most accurately as possible. Also processes a tree. Step of teeth 11 points. Tempered teeth received a longitudinal-transverse direction. Fixed handle adds reliability when working. Fabric length 450 mm. Price within 1000 rubles.
Great option for hiking. Fabric length 250 mm. This is optimal for small work. Can process laminate, wood and plastic. It will cost only 450 rubles. Ideal for tourists.
What to buy for sawing old boards on firewood, sawing branches, work in the garden?
Please advise what is better to buy for sawing old boards on firewood, sawing branches, work in the garden (you need to saw off part of the pear)? Benzo- or electrical saw or saber-saw? It seems so heavy to me, is it convenient for her to saw firewood? There are a lot of boards left in the country from old buildings, their husband saws them periodically manually with a hacksaw or chopped with an ax, so I want to buy him a tool, give a gift for his birthday. What to choose?
I bought myself a small chain electric saw. There is almost always electricity in the country. In addition to sawing boards and small logs on firewood, it is great for trimming large branches of old trees. The advantage of the chainsaw is that the electric saw can be turned upside down. The advantage of the saber saw. Power, speed of work, less vibration load on the hand. However, in comparison with the saber’s saw, more rude sections. Sable is more suitable for accurate carpentry or carpentry work. If you decide to buy a chain saw, then select a model with a common chain size so that you can easily purchase a chain to replace.
Olga, I use two tools: for pruning branches and formation of trees, Sabelane saw of Bosh. It is light comfortable. Two batteries are enough for a very long time. And for sawing just old boards I bought a manual (but universal) circular. When I need to work with my hand. But I almost constantly work with her fixed on the table. There are so universal: you can work with your hands; can be turned over and fixed on the table. To fix the circular made a massive table on thick legs. Below to the two legs at the desired height attached a wide thick board 60 millimeters thick on it, the saw handle is fixed. Then I still have a very light motorcycle. It is light, empty mass 3 kg 900 grams, after gas station refueling 4 kg 100 grams. So choose. And the circular is fixed like this. This is the most convenient and safe tool for sawing boards. The general view of the circular.Fixed on the table
The view from the bottom is shown as a thick board is fixed under the table
View from above
Bottom view close.Up
Table of table with a saw
For sawing new boards. With the old ones, no matter how you get care, and sooner or later you run into a nail. And in this regard, the circular is the most dangerous, and the breakdown of the tool is expensive. To blame a chain or a jigsaw file is not as costly as a saw disk.
Baron I saw old and new boards for 10-12 years of thin nails does not feel, and thick are clearly visible. With this circul, I easily do the birdhouses, boxes for a fodder, rough furniture. A bedside table for a tool. Conveniently. Well, let Olga choose: we suggested.
You have to cut boards from old buildings with a big eyebrow. The case is in nails and other hardware, and the dirt and plaster, which are present there quickly spoil the tool. You shuffle once with a saw on the nail. And drag the chain again, and this is not easy to do. I try to cut the boards with a little by an electrician if the thickness allows, while it is more convenient to inspect the place of the alleged cut for the notorious nails and other things. Although slower, of course. For firewood, there is a chain electric saw and a gasoline “Echo”, both are not very heavy. “Echo” is an expensive Japanese brand, but I am so impressed by the trouble.Free work of motorcycles that I bought the saw of the same company.
A good question from the lips of women. Which saw to choose))) I had a chainsaw, I obeyed for 2 years, then friendship went up, often worn for repairs, and that surprisingly sings and works in male hands, in mine. Does not want. Now I have already have 3 years of electric saw, a little oil (machine) and go. I changed the chain of once (with the master), and I can perfectly pull the chain myself. So the common language was found with her.
In any case, the electric saw is more convenient. No need for gasoline cans and trips to a gas station. No need to interfere with gas with oil. The smell of gasoline wires both the garage and the shed. And there is no problem with starting. A liter of gasoline costs 44 rubles, and kilowat/hour of electric energy 4 rubles. For example, with the window of the site, I spent 3 liters of gasoline for 150 rubles on a gas station, and now on an electric trimmer I spend 2. 3 kilowatts/hours for 10 rudders. Savings are significant. I am for a power tool where there is natural electricity. Good luck.
Thank you all for the answers. I stopped choosing on a saber’s saw, then I’ll tell you my impressions of its application.
Consider with you manual saws / hacksaw. Their varieties in our time have become quite a few. We will not go into the history of the occurrence of saw in the world and in Russia in particular. But we consider them from the point of view of the design features arising from the application and historical decisions of those companies who have made a significant contribution to the development of manual saws. We hope that deep immersion in this topic, technical features and requirements for saws will now allow you to more competently approach the choice of saws, their operation, sharpening and storage. You will see that the determining criteria for choosing a tool are: application, characteristics, convenience and manufacturer.
Despite the Rapid development of electrical and battery tools, hand saws remain one of the demanded assistants for masters. In such cases such as cutting spikes, making beautiful complex compounds and other small works, a hand saw is still not replaced. And given the active development of the hand-made and the revival of the carpentry, the interest in high-quality hand saws (hacksaws) only increases. Expansion by manufacturers of the Daws line, revival of rarent brands and their replicas, as well as improving the quality of materials and the active entry of Japanese saws into our market. All this helps manual saws to be really useful tools.
Type 1: Classic
This type is most common and found both in workshops of amateurs and professionals. The length of the canvas of this saw can fluctuate about 50-60 cm. Often such saws are equipped with a Rapid change in the canvas and they can be quite easily used for a variety of work.
Often, lovers prefer such saws. The disadvantage of these saws can be of low manufacturing quality. The canvas can be fragile. This reduces the accuracy of the cutting. But an indisputable plus is a fairly democratic price of this tool.
Type 2: narrow
She’s a spin.Haired hacksaw. Medium.Length canvas, pointed to the end and unsteady. This is a manual alternative to an electric jigsaw. It is convenient to perform complex.Profile cuts in sheet materials such as plywood, fiberboard, chipboard and the like. There is a type of saw for drywall to work.
Type 3: with a lumber
She was a shoe drank. It is called this because of thickening along the upper edge of the canvas, the so-called train. It is made of a thick sheet of metal. Its main function is to ensure stiffness during sawing. This makes the cuts very accurate, but limits them in the depths. Often with a boat saw, they work in a spark with a stupid.
- Fetling is a device of “P”-shaped with six sawdrows. It is made of wood, light alloys or plastic. The knock allows you to quickly and accurately produce the cuts of the workpieces to a pre.Set angle. Usually this 45 or 90 degrees.
Type 4: Luching
In its simple performance, the name justifies. She looks like a bow with a thin and long saw blade instead of a bowstring. The frame of this saw can be made of wood or metal. Often a beam saw is equipped with a sheet tension device.
In general, this type of saw is a manual analogue of a strip saw or in some cases of a circular disc saw. It is worth using a ray in cases of one.Time, sporadic application. That is, when buying an expensive tape saw machine is not economically justified.
Type 5: Award
Otherwise, called a hacksaw.In shape it is a modified shoe, the handle of which was transferred directly to the training. The purpose of this type is the exact dressing of spikes and grooves. The use of this tool allows you to abandon the manual electric milling cutter, but requires a lot of practical experience.
Type 6: folding tool
In the shape of the canvas is closer to the outfit hacksaws. The length usually does not exceed 30-35 cm. The canvas is connected to the handle of a hinge mechanism that allows you to fold them. The handle simultaneously acts as a pencil foam. Folders are often used by gardeners or travelers because of their compactness and rather high functionality.
Before starting assembly measures, guided by the drawing, you should prepare the necessary materials and tools. This will allow, first of all, to navigate whether there is everything you need for work (you need to buy the missing), and also not be distracted during the process along the trifles of trifles.
Necessary materials and tools
To make a strip saw, the following will require Materials and details:
- Boards or sheet of plywood (or chipboard) from which the frame, table, pulley will be made;
- Sheet steel (for saw);
- A channel used to create a support frame, or metal corners, or wooden bars and rails;
- Steel rod. For the manufacture of pulleys of pulleys;
- Electric motor;
- Screws, bolts with nuts and washers;
- Polyurethane glue;
- Rubber from a bicycle chamber;
- Briver belt;
- Varnish or paint.
For work, such instruments:
- Screwdriver (with drills);
- A hammer;
- Wrench (size for bolts);
Power tools can be replaced and their manual analogues. But in this case, the assembly will require more time and labor costs. When using metal corners or a channel, instead of wooden bars, you will also need a welding machine and electrodes. The use of bolt compounds creates additional problems with a tight fit of details.
Recommendations for choosing a tape canvas
It is quite difficult to make a cutting canvas with your own hands. For these purposes, you need instrumental steel of brands U8 or U10. The saw should be flexible. Its thickness for relatively soft wood is from 0.2 to 0.4 mm, and for solid. From 0.4 to 0.8 mm. The length of the canvas in the assembled version of the machine will be about 1.7 m. You need to independently cut the teeth, correctly dilute and sharpen them. To solder the tape in a continuous ring (at the same time), you will need to use a gas burner and solder. The connecting seam must be polished after.
It is much easier and more convenient to purchase a ready.Made cutting canvas of good quality in the store so as not to waste time making it. The width of the products is from 18 to 88 mm. At the same time, you need to FOCUS on the material that has to be sprinkled. Manufacturers offer such types of saws according to this criterion:
- Bimetallic, designed to perform metal work (stainless steel and relatively strong alloys);
- Diamond, with which you can saw marble, quartz, granite and other solid materials;
- Chards, allowing to process high.Strength alloys;
- From the strips instrumental steel, used for sawing wood.
The last variety is often equipped with machines collected in household conditions. This is due to its price availability and practicality. But if you have to work with solid materials, then it is better to purchase a more solid, wear.Resistant and expensive saw to reduce the probability of a rupture of the tape to a minimum.
If planned using a ribbon saw made make a curly cut, then you need to select the width of the canvas taking into account the radius of rounding. Some ratios between these values are shown in the following photography.
Advice! For even longitudinal sawing of lumber, wide cutting canvases should be used. They allow you to perform a more even cut.
When choosing a wood saw, you also need to take into account The step of her teeth (distance between their centers). The hardness of the wood depends on this, which can be sawed. The following are the most common teeth profiles, their marking and scope.
You need to pay attention to The quality of sharpening of teeth. The cutting edge should be acute and even. You should also ask the sales assistant about the opportunity to hide it again and how many times it can be done. For your own safety, it is recommended to give preference to better canvases.
Garden knives and scissors
Garden knife. A tool for thin work: they can correct the cut, remove thin shoots, cut the bark and so on. Good knife (and not one!) is necessary for the gardener who is vaccinated. But to work with this tool, it is important to have a skill. In inept hands it threatens with injuries (and the plant and gardener can be injured).
Garden knives are different both in the shape of the blade and in size. They must be selected by itself. According to the same principles and rules as the secateur. Read more about garden knives in an article about trials from the list for reading to the lesson.
Garden scissors. A tool for hedges and topiary. Photo from the site Gardena.Com
Garden scissors are necessary for those who have a hedge on the site. This is a tool with long blades and handles (often the blades and handles are the same length). It is intended for quick and even (according to the template) trimming of a large number of shoots (unlike the secateur, which is needed to work with separate shoots). Garden scissors are also used for curly haircuts of plants (topiary).
The possibilities of stain
To highlight the texture of the tree and artificially aging the surface, one little.Known method is used. It consists in the simultaneous use of impregnation of different shade.
One of the fashion trends is the coloring of the “bleached oak”. To achieve it, two types of impregnation are used. The first layer is applied to a special whirlwind.Based bleach. After drying it, take an oil stain containing wax. Only pores are clogged with them, staining in the chosen color, and the rest of the area remains unchanged.
With a combination of types and shades of stains, you can achieve very spectacular results. The main subtlety here is the sequence of work: first, the background is created, and then the product is subjected to finishing by using other colors. The order cannot be changed, otherwise the wax will not allow the stain to absorb.
The final step will be a varnish coating. It performs a protective function and is mandatory.
How to replace the end saw
When making repairs in your apartment, it becomes necessary to install interior doors. To cut the door boxes at 45 degrees, you need a end saw, but what to do if it is not?
In this article I describe one of the options for replacing the end saw.
The first thing that comes to mind is to use the stupor, but it will be possible to cut the door pad with it, but the door frame will be difficult. Even with a small backlash, it will not be possible to cut the door frame under 45 degrees.
In order to cope with this task and cut a part, for example, at 45 degrees, you will need an electrician, a screwdriver and a milling.
A piece of plywood
You need to take a piece of plywood and use an electrolobian cut a rectangular hole.
Screw a plywood segment to a piece
Scrill over to a piece of plywood a segment of the beam, then check with the square, the angle between the plywood and the beam should be strictly 90 degrees.
Draw a line on the bend of the beam
After a piece of the beam, draw a line under the required degree.
Scroll through a segment of the beam
On this line, fasten the bar of the beam.
Best Hacksaw. Top Hacksaw Review in 2021
Attach the part
Press the detail
Press the part with a cut of the beam on the other side.
Press the part with a clamp
I bought a Saber VLO 785 Sable for a home workshop. I accidentally learned from advertising that this is a universal mechanism for cutting objects, and was not mistaken. Depending on the installed canvas, I cut bricks, hollow blocks, metal and plastic pipes, wood and dvp sheets. Ideal when performing construction and repair work, as well as for garage and cottage.
I am a gardener with experience of mechanical saws, so I advise you to purchase a battery light electric saw for a woman who constantly cares for her garden. A good choice is provided by Bosch KEO. File is also suitable for home and stationery. Its advantage is that it is inexpensive, mobile, she does not need a power grid or liquid fuel, her weight from one kilogram and above. As a disadvantage, the battery is constantly required to charge, so for long.Term work they need to have two and charge them in turn.
I got a rack, since I need a folding. I often buy overall logs, which creates the problem of transportation. I easily translate the folded rack from place to place in the trunk of a car. In place, long trunks of wood cut into separate parts and transfer them home in a car trailer.