Lawn mower bearing noise. Toro Mower Making Grinding Noise – Why And What To Do
Toro Mower Making Grinding Noise – Why And What To Do?
A grinding noise coming from your Toro lawn mower can be annoying and indicate that there is a problem with your machine. We researched to find out what these problems are and how to fix them.
Before you attempt to troubleshoot or repair your Toro lawn mower, you need to know why it’s making a grinding noise. Here are the common reasons and their corresponding solutions:
Self Propelled Dragging or Hard to Push on Your Lawn Mower? It Could be This!
- Worn bearings: You should lubricate the bearings. If there’s visible damage, replacement may be needed.
- Bent crankshaft: Straighten or replace the crankshaft.
Keep reading to learn more about the underlying issues causing your Toro lawn mower to produce a grinding noise. Included are details on fixing these problems. Also, find out the best lubricant to use and some of the repair costs.
How To Fix Toro Lawn Mower Producing A Grinding Noise
A lawn mower making unusual noises doesn’t necessarily mean it has a problem. It’s normal for riding mowers or lawn tractors to produce a grinding sound.
Your push lawnmower can produce the same sound if you push it when the drive is detached. However, a sudden grinding sound that wasn’t there before is a sign your machine has a problem.
Cleaning and lubricating the affected parts may be all you need to do to eliminate the noise. But, if the noise persists, you need to find out what is wrong.
Some of the most common reasons your lawn mower is producing a grinding sound include the following:
The bearings in the mandrel assembly of your riding lawn mower go through normal wear and tear. The mandrel is the component under the deck that holds the blades in place. The bearings can overheat and dry, so you must lubricate them regularly.
When the bearings are worn, they can produce strange noises, including a grinding sound. If not replaced promptly, your blades could drop down from under the deck.
How To Easily Fix Lawn Mower Grinding Noise
A broken seal can allow dirt to interfere with the normal movement of the bearings, which can also produce strange noises. You can find out if this is the problem by shaking the blade.
But first, ensure you shut down your mower and park it somewhere safe. If the blade plays excessively, you will have to replace the bearings. Afterward, check the mandrel for any damages. Unless there is visible damage, there’s no need to replace it.
The crankshaft of a push lawnmower can bend if the blade hits a rock or stump with so much force that it causes jamming against the bearing. As a result, it may overheat, produce smoke, and make a grinding noise.
To check if this is what happened, unplug the spark plug wire and remove the spark plug. This is to ensure that your mower will not start accidentally.
Also, tie the brake handle using a rope or a pair of clamps, or ask someone to hold it for you. Next, flip your mower over, ensuring the air filter is facing up.
Pull the pull-start that you normally start your engine with. In this instance, the engine will not start, but the crankshaft will spin. If the bolt that connects the blade to the crankshaft wobbles, then it is bent. You can straighten or replace it.
Check out this video for a demonstration of how to check if the crankshaft is bent.
How To Straighten A Bent Crankshaft
Some lawn mower experts recommend using a long, heavy-duty pipe instead of a hammer to straighten the crankshaft. This is because you might damage the crankshaft or adjacent parts during the process.
As in the previous section, you will need to remove the spark plug and hold the brake handles using a pair of clamps. Turn the mower over with the air filter facing up.
Next, measure the gap between the deck and the crankshaft all around. There are several ways of doing this.
You could use a dial indicator like the one shown above, but ensure you follow the instructions in the manual. For this post, a strong magnet and a straight tool are used.
The steps to straighten the crankshaft include:
Measure The Gap Differences Around The Crankshaft
- Place a magnet on the deck.
- Place one end of the straight tool on the magnet and the other end as close as possible to the crankshaft.
- Pull the pull-start and turn the crankshaft until the gap between the crankshaft and the deck is the widest. Measure this distance.
- Again, pull the pull-start and turn the crankshaft. Mark this side with the lowest gap and measure the distance.
- Your goal is to have an equal gap all around the shaft between the crankshaft and the deck, so continue to the next few steps.
Straighten The Shaft
- Take your mower outside, place it on flat ground, and turn it over. Remember that the air filter should face up.
- Turn the shaft so that the side with the mark faces the front of the mower.
- Place your right foot on the deck and firmly grip the brake handles with your left hand.
- Place the pipe over the crankshaft so that it enters the hole in the pipe.
- Pull the pipe backward with your hand to adjust the crankshaft’s position.
- Check the gap on the side you marked the crankshaft. You should have adjusted it a little so that the gap is wider.
- Turn the shaft to the opposite side of the mark, and repeat the procedure.
- Keep repeating until you achieve an equal gap all around the shaft.
Check out this video for a demonstration of the process.
If you still cannot straighten the crankshaft, you should replace it. Keep in mind that this option can be expensive. You might have to buy a new mower instead. You’ll need to consult with your dealer to find out more about this and make a decision.
You will likely need to repair or replace the blades. After hitting against a hard object like a rock, they could have also bent. As a general principle, most manufacturers recommend that you replace the blades when damaged.
How To Maintain Your Mower
Lawnmowers go through normal wear and tear, and at some point, you will have to replace some parts. Eventually, you may need to buy a new lawnmower.
To prevent your mower from producing strange sounds, including a grinding noise, you should lubricate it often. The best lubricant is the one recommended by the manufacturer of your lawn mower.
To lubricate the bearings and other moving parts of your Toro lawn mower, you can use a general-purpose lithium complex no. 2 lubricant.
Remove debris and other objects that may damage your mower, causing it to produce unusual sounds. This will also prevent potential harm to you and those around you.
The blades move at high speeds and propel objects out of the discharge chute at 2oo miles per hour.
Don’t forget to mark pipes or other immovable structures that you may damage with your mower or that may damage your mower.
How Much Does It Cost To Repair A Lawn Mower?
The cost of hiring a professional to repair your lawn mower will vary based several factors, such as the type of mower and how it is powered.
In general, the cost to repair a push mower starts from 40, while that of repairing a riding mower starts from 140.
A lawnmower company can charge you a flat rate, but others may charge you an hourly rate. On average, they charge 55 per hour but can range from 45 to 100 per hour.
You should never ignore any sudden strange noises that emanate from your Toro lawn mower. Grinding sounds are one of them.
The sound can signify that something is wrong. The mower may have worn bearings or a bent crankshaft. We discussed solutions to these problems in this post.
To ensure your Toro lawn mower remains in good condition, lubricate the moving parts regularly. Also, before using your mower, clear your lawn of any objects and debris.
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Various AC Noises and What They Might Mean
Since you’ve grown to rely on your A/C unit to get you through the heat, it can be troubling when you hear unfamiliar or exceptionally loud noises coming from your air conditioner.
Ignoring any mysterious A/C noise can allow minor issues to become major expenses. These noises can signal anything from your air conditioner needing a simple tune-up to the repair or even replacement of the entire unit. The sooner you can determine the cause of the noise and resolve your A/C issues, the better.
Here are some common sounds your A/C unit can make, what they may signify, and how to resolve the issues.
What Kind of Noise is the A/C Making?
If your A/C compressor is making a noise that sounds like banging, there is probably a loose or broken part in the compressor. Hearing an outside A/C unit noise like banging usually means that your unit has experienced wear and tear over time, causing compressor parts to come loose and bang or rattle around. The loose or broken part may be a connecting rod, a piston pin, a crankshaft, or support springs and screws. Alternatively, if you hear the banging noise from inside your home, your indoor blower could be unbalanced.
To fix a banging noise from your A/C compressor, you can use the Frontdoor® App to call an HVAC professional to help you fasten or replace your system’s loose or broken parts. If that doesn’t solve the issue, a full compressor replacement may be required.
Clanking is another sign of a loose or broken part. If the noise is coming from your inside unit, the parts inside the sealed unit have likely failed. The compressor itself may have become loose, possibly necessitating a replacement. A clanking sound can also mean that the indoor blower or outdoor fan and its blades are out of balance and hitting other parts.
To fix a clanking noise, you may need to repair your A/C unit’s indoor blower or outdoor fan to set the unit back in balance. It’s always a good idea to call a professional to check out clanking noises before they become bigger problems.
It’s normal if your A/C is making a clicking noise at the start-up and shutdown of a cooling cycle. However, constant or ongoing clicking is not typical. If you hear these noises from your A/C unit, it could be a sign of:
- An obstruction in the A/C fans
- The capacitor losing its charge
- Faulty electrical signals
- A loose A/C fan
- A malfunctioning thermostat
To remedy an A/C fan obstruction, all you have to do is lift the outdoor unit cover and wipe the fans clean. If your A/C unit is constantly clicking due to the capacitor losing its charge, faulty electrical signals, a loose fan, or a malfunctioning thermostat, you call an HVAC professional to fix the issue.
If your A/C is making a buzzing noise at the outdoor unit, it could indicate a variety of issues:
- Loose parts
- Debris in either the indoor or outdoor unit
- An outdoor fan motor that is loose or about to fail
- Fan blades that are loose or out of balance
- The copper lines running from the outside to the inside are rubbing against something
- The condenser coil needs to be cleaned
- The air filter needs to be changed
- The blower is failing or out of balance
Depending on the source of the issue, you can resolve it by either conducting routine maintenance or calling in a Pro.
If your A/C unit seems to be running outside but isn’t cooling inside, the problem is likely due to refrigerant leaks. Refrigerant leaks result in the air conditioning unit freezing up, and this may or may not be accompanied by buzzing noises depending on how bad the leak is and where it’s located.
Squeaks and squeals transmitted through the duct system suggest a mechanical or air pressure issue, which could be caused by a malfunctioning blower and fan. Outdoor fan motors and indoor blower motors squeal loudly when they’re going bad, and the blower wheel and housing will also squeal when they malfunction.
Sometimes an A/C unit making a noise like squealing is normal upon start-up. If it’s a sound your unit has always made, it’s probably okay, but if the squealing noise is new, be sure to call a Frontdoor HVAC Expert to diagnose and help repair the issue.
Thankfully, a humming sound coming from your A/C unit generally isn’t serious—but it still signals that something inside your air conditioner is off. Loose parts and refrigerant piping can cause vibration. If left unchecked, you could encounter more serious maintenance issues down the road.
However, some humming noises may be a sign of electrical problems. If you notice loud humming noises from the outside A/C unit and that the compressor hums and refuses to start, it may be because of loose wiring or a faulty motor. Regular A/C maintenance conducted by qualified professionals can help prevent and repair the root of these electrical concerns.
If you hear the A/C condenser making a rattling noise, it can mean that your air conditioner is starting to break down and that some of its parts are deteriorating. Another cause could be twigs or leaves that are clogging the A/C system. If the electrical contractor in the equipment makes a chattering sound, it can indicate damage to the A/C unit components, including the compressor. Another culprit could be the rattling caused by a loose fan.
To try and remedy an A/C rattling noise yourself, check for loose screws or bolts in the unit’s casing, clean its condenser coils, and change your indoor air filter. If you take these steps and your A/C is still rattling, the next step is to call in a professional.
If you hear a high-pitched whistling or screaming A/C noise, the culprit is most likely a refrigerant leak, which can be dangerous for the health of your air conditioner and your family. It can also indicate high internal pressure in the compressor. Shut off your air conditioner immediately and call a professional.
If your A/C unit starts whistling or screaming and then turns off on its own, that means that the sensor is doing its job and protecting you from a potentially hazardous situation. However, this signals that you need a professional to help immediately. Power off the unit until a repair person can diagnose and fix the issue.
An air conditioner making a pulsating or rhythmic thumping noise isn’t necessarily a bad sign. This A/C noise can be perfectly normal when the air conditioner is operating. However, if your outside A/C unit is making a loud noise like thumping that you can hear inside the house, it could signify that something has come loose inside the unit. Some likely culprits include the fan motor and blades, but any loose panel or part could cause a pulsating noise in your A/C.
To mitigate the thumping, see if you can refasten any loose components.
If your A/C sounds like a helicopter, you could have one of any number of mechanical problems with either the indoor blower or the outdoor unit. Typically, a whirring sound in an A/C is the result of bad bearings in the indoor blower fan motor or a faulty fan in either the indoor blower unit or outdoor unit. When the blades start to come loose or the fan starts to fall apart, a whirring A/C noise can occur. If it seems like a mechanical issue is the culprit, be sure to call in a professional.
Sometimes whirring can be caused by a bad or broken belt somewhere in the system or a piece of paper or other debris trapped in either the indoor blower fan or the outdoor fan unit. If it seems that the whirring noise is caused by debris, simply clear out the inside and outside of the unit with a hose and soft-bristled brush.
What Do I Do About a Noisy but Not Malfunctioning A/C Unit?
If you ask a service professional to come by and they find nothing wrong with your loud A/C, or you are just looking for ways to lessen the sound of the unit, there are some options to muffle the noise.
Soundproofing is a great way to keep outside A/C unit noises from being heard inside your home. Here are some ideas:
- Remove the top of your A/C’s outdoor unit and install a sound blanket over the compressor—the blanket sits right on top of it.
- Install shrubs or sound-dampening fencing with overlapping boards around your A/C unit. This option can also hide the outdoor component, which many homeowners find aesthetically pleasing. Make sure to place the fence at least three feet away from the air conditioner, so it can get the airflow it needs to work properly.
You can place some large houseplants or soundproof drapes in front of the Windows on the side of the house facing the A/C.
When Should I Replace a Noisy A/C Unit?
If your unit is getting older, replacing it may be the best solution. How long HVAC systems last varies depending on the type of unit, where you live, and how often you conduct HVAC inspections. However, excessive noise from an older unit is usually a sign of deterioration. Investing in a new air conditioner will likely allow you to have a quieter, more energy-efficient household.
Ready to take the next step in home ownership? Frontdoor offers a variety of ways to get things done. Whether you prefer connecting via video chat with trade industry Experts, receiving a list of vetted Pros for repairs, or utilizing our how-to library to DIY, we’ve got you covered.
With the Frontdoor App, completing tasks has never been easier, so why wait? Open the Frontdoor and start taking control of your home repairs. Download the app today!
Frontdoor assumes no responsibility, and specifically disclaims all liability, for your use of any and all information contained herein.
What is a Wheel Bearing How Can You Tell if Yours is Going Bad?
A wheel bearing has a real simple job: It makes sure that your wheel spins freely, without any binding or vibration. A wheel bearing’s goal is to mitigate the effects of friction, which ultimately improves your car’s ability to roll smoothly—all while reducing wear to ensure it’s able to do so for a long time.
A wheel bearing is typically composed of a series of small roller bearings arranged in a circle and encased in a durable shell. The assembly is packed in grease and sealed to prevent excessive moisture and grit ingress. Then, the whole thing slips around the vehicle’s axle or spindle, where it can spin right round, baby.
But given the amount of times it has to keep the wheels spinning really, really fast (and the rain-, dust-, and salt-rich environment it often has to work in), a wheel bearing will eventually wear out. While a failed wheel bearing can be a big problem, the good news is, it’ll probably give you plenty of warning that it’s going bad—you just have to know what to listen for.
How to Tell if Your Wheel Bearing is Bad
The key word above is “listen.” Though you may be able to jack-up your vehicle and check the wheel for movement and play, noise will typically be your first (and best) indicator that you’ve got a wheel bearing on its way out.
It’s always a challenge to describe a noise in text, but a bad wheel bearing will often start out as a “growl,” sort of like a dull, soft grinding noise. It can also be a whine, a hum, or a soft roar. In some cases, bad wheel bearing noise could even manifest as a clunk or squeak.
You may also start to feel it through your steering wheel or in your backside seismograph. Again, a wheel bearing’s job is to ensure your wheel spins smoothly. When it doesn’t, you’ll probably start sensing unpleasant vibration and noise throughout the passenger cabin.
The noise/vibration might only be noticeable at certain speeds, and it may even go away momentarily depending on chassis movement (more on that in a sec). In any event, it’ll likely get worse as the bearing continues its progression towards complete failure, so it’s good that you catch it as early as possible.
Avoid a Wrong Wheel Bearing Diagnosis
But before you point the finger at a wheel bearing, you want to make sure the noise isn’t coming from somewhere else. So here are a few things to consider:
- Make sure your tires are in good shape and properly inflated. Worn, unbalanced, and underinflated tires can mimic the symptoms of a bad wheel bearing.
- Does the noise change when you apply the brakes? Does it stop entirely? Then it’s a good idea to check out your drums/discs first, before going much deeper. In a safe area(!), experiment with some light brake taps, a few hard jabs, and then ride the brakes a bit to see if it affects the noise you’re experiencing.
- Does the noise change with engine speed? Remembering that engine speed and wheel speed often change together, try this: While coasting to a stop on a highway off-ramp, (again, in safe conditions!) shift into neutral. If, when the engine RPM drops, there’s no change in the noise, then the noise is probably linked to wheel speed, which points to a wheel bearing problem. (Once you’re stopped after the test, shift back into drive and be on your way.)
We’ve got a really good article on driveline noises that goes into more detail. Check it out here: Quick Guide to Diagnosing Differential Driveline Noises
How to Track Down a Bad Wheel Bearing
Now that you know what to listen for. You need to know where to listen for it.
Since a wheel bearing is located at or near the wheel, the noise will probably be coming from one corner of your vehicle—provided you’ve only got one bad bearing, of course.
It’s usually pretty easy to determine if the noise is coming from the front or back, given the driver’s seating position and their proximity to the front wheels. The hard part is often determining whether the noise is coming from the left or right (driver or passenger) side of the vehicle.
But good news there, as there’s an easy test that may help. While it’s not 100% foolproof, if you notice the noise stops while you’re turning—or even slightly veering—then an opposite side wheel bearing is the likely culprit.
That’s because turning shifts the weight off the side of the particular offending wheel. Now unloaded with less stress, the bearing might shut up for a second and be perfectly content. When the vehicle weight shift returns to normal, the bearing is back to being loaded and it’ll start to whine again (sometimes literally).
So pay special attention while turning and, at highway speeds, if you can safely(!) rock the steering wheel slightly left and right to shift the vehicle’s weight to each side, it may further help you diagnose where the noise is coming from.
Again, this isn’t a 100% accurate test, but it can be a big help.
How Long Should A Wheel Bearing Last?
That’s a tough question to answer with a definitive mile threshold. We hear tell of wheel bearings lasting the life of the vehicle, like 200,000 miles and up. Conversely, some cars (coughold Subaruscough) seem to go through wheel bearings every few years or so.
It often boils down to both the vehicle and the driving conditions. All-wheel-drive cars put different demands on wheel bearings than, say, front wheel drive cars. Late-model performance cars place stresses on wheel bearings that regular commuter cars don’t. Mud-slinging off-roaders subject their wheel bearings to muck and grit that a street-driven car rarely sees. Make sense?
The takeaway here is that early detection is important. And narrowing it down to the precise wheel can help save you some time and money in diagnostic costs.
What to Do When Your Dryer Is Making Loud Noise
So, your dryer suddenly started making a noise you don’t recognize. You tried listening harder to what it has to say but realized, dryers can’t talk. Or can they? The specific noise your dryer is making may be the key to figuring out what the problem is, how serious it is, and whether you should start shopping for a new one. Narrowing down the type of noise your dryer is making is the first step to figuring out exactly what it’s trying to tell you. Here are some of the more common noises your dryer might make:
Dryer Is Making a Grinding Noise
Nothing is more alarming than the sound of metal grinding against metal—especially when there is an appliance running. If your dryer is making a grinding noise, the culprit is usually the drum bearing. The drum bearing is in the back of the appliance behind the dryer drum. When this part gets worn down, the drum rubs against the back of the casing and causes a distinct grinding noise. Sometimes this grinding is also accompanied by a high-pitch squealing or squeaking noise. The drive belt will need to be removed to diagnose such a problem. So, for that reason, it’s best to call a dryer repair professional as soon as you hear a grinding sound.
Don’t ignore this dryer noise! If you continue to use a dryer with a worn drum bearing, you could end up burning out the motor. Then you’ll be dealing with a much more complicated and expensive problem to repair.
Dryer Is Making a Screeching Noise
Another common, but unsettling dryer noise is a loud screeching sound when you turn it on. A screeching noise when you turn the dryer on is usually caused by a broken idler pulley, sometimes called a tensioner. To identify if this is the problem, follow these steps:
- Unplug your dryer, and carefully move it to an area where you have enough room to inspect the back of the appliance. You may need to disconnect the air vent duct.
- If your dryer is gas-powered or hardwired to your home’s electrical system, stop here. The safest next step is consulting a professional who is highly qualified to inspect the dryer without causing an additional problem to the existing connections.
- If you are able to move the unit away from the wall, inspect the idler pulley. It looks like a wheel on a moveable bracket just above the dryer belt that loops around the drum. (The drive pulley is just beneath the belt; don’t confuse this part with the idler pulley.) If you can turn the idler pulley manually, it’s in working order. If it doesn’t turn or is difficult to turn, have it replaced by an expert.
If this is the case, stop using your dryer until you can have it repaired. If you continue to use your dryer with an idler pulley that is not functioning properly, the belt could emit a burning smell and will eventually fail completely.
Dryer Is Making a Thumping Noise
A dryer that is making a thumping noise is perplexing indeed. If it is making a thumping noise while running, you’ll need to determine if there are any balled-up towels or heavy objects in the dryer drum that may be causing the sound. If you’ve inspected your laundry and can’t find any reason for the noise, it’s most likely coming from one of the dryer’s inner components.
Here are a few possible causes of dryer thumping:
- A flattened roller. If you don’t use your dryer frequently or it’s been sitting unused for a while, it may have a flattened roller. The thumping noise could be from the flat spot on the roller making the rotation as the drum spins. Try running an empty cycle to allow the roller to re-shape. If this doesn’t resolve the problem, you’ll need to have the roller repaired.
- A worn-out roller. When your dryer is making a loud noise, whether it’s thumping or creaking, a worn-down roller is often the cause. When this part no longer makes a solid connection with the drum, you’ll hear a sound as the drum rotates. The part will need to be replaced entirely.
- A damaged belt. If your roller is in good condition, the thumping may be coming from a damaged or frayed dyer belt. However, most repair companies will replace your roller, belt, and idler pulley at the same time to ensure all three are working correctly together and wearing out evenly.
Peace and Quiet, Coming Right Up
A dryer, like other major appliances, is something you rely on consistently. And if you have a large family, your dryer is essential to help you keep pace with your family’s needs. So when your dryer starts making noise, the best way to fix the problem is to call a local appliance expert.
No matter what strange sound your dryer is making, or what it’s trying to tell you, Mr. Appliance can diagnose the problem quickly, and fix it so you don’t have to worry about how you’re going to dry all that laundry. Don’t let a noisy dryer get you down, give us a call, or schedule an appointment online today.