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Mini Zamboni
Well it started several years ago when my son started playing hockey. I flooded part of the yard and made a small rink. Each year the rink got bigger. This year we have about 4500 square feet. That’s a lot of snow to push off. Even after clearing with the tractor and snow blower, there was a lot left to do by hand. Flooding with the garden hose was also taking a lot of time. A while back, a friend asked me why I didn’t bring the old garden tractor with snow blower attached, up to his shop and get it going. That was the start of the Mini Zamboni. For those of you in warmer climates, a Zamboni is a machine that is used to resurface and re-flood skating rinks. The tractor is a Ford LGT 125 (12 HP). It is somewhere between 35 and 45 years old. I dragged it home from an auction 5 or 6 years ago and then did nothing with it. Well the first step was an oil change, a spark plug, points and a condenser. Some gas and a battery and wonder of wonders, it started. Changing the points was a challenge. There was a drive shaft running down the left hand side for a PTO. The shaft cleared the cover of the points by about 1/8 inch. I don’t have any attachments that would need a PTO drive so the shaft came off. It came out the front. That meant removing all the sheet metal on the front of the tractor. It is never going back on. The steering was sort of good and the hydro static transmission still worked. It needed a new ignition switch and still needs a new seat. The next step was to lubricate the snow blower and get the chain to flex again. It turned out that an arm was broken off of the lifting mechanism for the snow blower. We removed the gas tank and then stood the tractor up vertically with a hoist generally used to remove diesel engines from large trucks. My friend welded the broken part back on and we replaced the gas tank. Other issues, straighten a tie rod. That took the steering from sort of good to great. Tires. One back tire was rotted off. We couldn’t match the other tire so two new tires that are just a little too big but work fine just the same. One front tire was also rotten and was replaced. The next issue was a little more trouble than anticipated. We needed a drive belt for the snow blower. Two fairly large diameter pulleys, close together with tight clearances all around. We finally found a belt that fit. 1/4 inch longer and we couldn’t have taken up enough slack to tighten it. 1/2 inch shorter and we could not have installed it. The original belt tightener was gone. I finally found a pulley with an integral bearing at NAPA. I think it was intended to tighten a belt on a earlier Chevy car. I managed to get it mounted and tightened the drive belt. Now the tractor was running on four tires and the snow blower was turning. We started to work on the water system. There was an implement hitch on the back. It looked like it was intended to support a tiller. It was about 8 or 9 wide and went up and down. We lifted it up all the way and bolted it in position. This put the top of the hitch almost horizontal. We bolted on a short piece of channel iron (about 2 feet) and welded a curved strap on each end. That made a cradle that would support an oil drum. (45 Canadian Gallons, I think about 55 Gallons US). We held it in place with a pair of ratchet type cargo straps. A 2 90 degree fitting, a ball valve, another 90 and reducer and about 50 inches of perforated 1 inch pipe for a water distributor. The last thing was a safety guard over part of the snow blower mechanism. Painting will have to wait for warmer weather. Please remember, the purpose was to clear snow and flood a skating rink, not to faithfully restore an old garden tractor. When the weather warms up we will give the tractor a new coat of paint and try to find some lettering sets to replace the original lettering. FORD, LGT 125 It cost a few hundred dollars and took a few hours, but my 10 year old was so excited when we brought it home from the shop it was worth many times the cost. Now he can clear the snow and flood the rink while I stay warm and watch out the window. We filled up the water tank and William climbed into the seat. Well actually, onto the back pack where the seat will be when we get a seat. Away he went, flooding his rink himself and unbelievably excited. Now the are probably quite a few kids in Canada and the Northern States who own their own Zamboni. They are made out of garden tractors, quads or go karts; anything to get the job done. But my son has dual citizenship, Canadian and Honduran. He may be the only 10 year old Honduran in the world with his own personal Zamboni. I’ll post some pictures when I have a little more time.
RE: Mini Zamboni
but, jeez, Bill, even us in sunny places like Los Angeles have ice rinks and hockey teams.
RE: Mini Zamboni
Here’s the tractor in the shop.
RE: Mini Zamboni
The channel is mounted on the hitch. One cradle is being placed prior to welding.
RE: Mini Zamboni
Not quite as pretty as Snoopy’s, but nice!
TTFN I can do absolutely anything. I’m an expert! homework forum: //www.engineering.com/AskForum/aff/32.aspx FAQ731-376: Eng-Tips.com Forum Policies forum1529: Translation Assistance for Engineers
RE: Mini Zamboni
Here’s the Specs. (Full information at http://www.tractordata.com/lawn-tractors/001/4/1/1. ) TractorData.com. information on all makes and models of tractors Lawn Tractors Ford LGT-125
Ford LGT-125 LGT Series Model years 1972. 1983
Production: Distributor: Ford Manufacturer: Jacobsen
Ford LGT-125 Engine: 12HP Kohler 476cc 1-cyl gasoline full engine details. It’s a cold morning and time to flood. pic to-nite.
3-Point Hitch: Rear Type: 0 (optional)
Power Take-off (PTO): Front PTO: independent Clutch: electric
Dimensions Tires: Wheelbase: 46 inches [116 cm] Weight: 790 lbs [358 kg] Front tire: 16×6.50-8 Rear tire: 23×8.50-12 full dimensions and tires.
Ford LGT-125 attachments: 42 mid-mount mower deck 50 mid-mount mower deck snowblower blade front-end loader backhoe all LGT-125 attachments.
Mechanical: Transmission: hydrostatic Chassis: 4×2 2WD Steering: manual Brakes: integral mechanical Band Cab: Open operator station. All-weather cab optional.
Electrical: Ground: negative
Battery: Number: 1 Volts: 12
Page information: Last update: July 9, 2013 Copyright: Copyright 2015 TractorData LLC Contact: Peter@TractorData.com ©2000-2015. TractorData™. Notice: Every attempt is made to ensure the data listed is accurate. However, differences between sources, incomplete listings, errors, and data entry mistakes do occur. Consult official literature from the manufacturer before attempting any service or repair.
RE: Mini Zamboni
Nice! Bet your son has a blast driving it too.
Didn’t realize FORD made tractors that small. My old boss had a 16hp Ford tractor we did all sorts of things with. But it had rear tires that were 5 feet tall. Definitely wasn’t a yard tractor. I was always being amazed by the raw ability of 16 diesel HP funneled thru hydraulics and low gears.
RE: Mini Zamboni
Actually Ford DIDN’T make that tractor. If you look at the details that Bill uploaded you would see that it was manufactures by Jacobsen, a name much more recognizable in the lawn-tractor industry. This is what you would call a ‘private label’ arrangement where Jacobsen did all the engineering and manufacturing and simply delivered it in Ford markings and color. Not sure what the sales-channel would be in a situation like that, perhaps through those organizations that actually did sell Ford farming equipment.
The secret of life is not finding someone to live with It’s finding someone you can’t live without
RE: Mini Zamboni
The other night at Will’s hockey game they played Hockey Mom by Stompin Tom. https://www.YouTube.com/watch?v=A2lw-uB9SFA Right now it’s 14 degrees F with a windchill of.2 degrees F. Will is out blowing snow. He has cleared his rink, cleared a path through the trees and bushes and he is now working on the driveway. When he turns into the wind he gets a faceful of cold snow and cold wind. He came in and found some goggles and more warm headgear and went back out blowing more snow.
Here’s the Mini Zamboni, out of the shop and about to load in the trailer.
The first run flooding the rink. An excited kid driving the tractor for the first time.
A special thanks to itsmoked for the faq on uploading pictures.
RE: Mini Zamboni
I bet Will is super jazzed about that. He gets to drive, push stuff around, spray stuff, smell exhaust, and work a gas pedal. Doesn’t get much better than that at that age. Seems you gained a permanently cleared driveway in the deal too. 🙂
I’ll take that thanks and then tell you that FAQ is outdated and unnecessary now because Eng-Tips finally got things working right. You just click the picture up above with the circle in the lower corner and directly upload the your pics onto the server and they’re automatically linked in-line into your text. (Try to keep them around 700W X whateverH and no one will complain about the size much.)
If using ‘tinypics.com’ as soon as a period of time goes by without anyone accessing the tinypic located image, they dump it off their server, and then the links in here all break and everyone is disappointed who looks at the thread later. Some of my earlier threads in here have fallen to that malady.
It’s easy to do if you want to. 1) Hit the edit, down below your posts.
2) Right click on each image in its post and pick save as whatever it sez to your desktop. You should see each file appear on your desktop starting at the top left-most available icon spot.
3) Click the icon above and drag the file you just saved to your desktop right back into the drop file here that pops up.
4) Right click and delete the old image.
5) Preview your now fully edited post. Hit submit. You’re done. Takes way longer to read this than to do it.
P.S. I edited the FAQ to the new reality.
RE: Mini Zamboni
Thanks again Keith. Editing done. Posting pics is super easy now.
We have a few shortcomings still. (Will thinks that it is perfect!!) I’ll try to get back in the shop next week while Will is in school. Issue #1 The cutting edge rides about 1/4 inch high due to a couple of skid shoes. Fix- Either remove the skid shoes or extend the cutting edge.
Issue #2 Filling. It takes about 9 minutes to fill and about 12 minutes to spread a load of water. With a wind chill of.18 deg. C, or 0 deg. F the water tap frezes before Will can get back for another load of water. Then the holes in the distributor bar freeze over while the tank is being filled. We keep a jug of water handy to thaw the tap, and Will has learned to use the small propane torch to thaw his distributor bar. Fix- A second water tank that can be filling while the rink is being flooded. This is in progress. I have the bottom cut out of another oil drum. We will bolt some 2x4s to the sides as legs to raise it up high enough. I have the fittings and a 2 ball valve to fit a 2 hose to rapidly dump the water into the Zamboni tank. I went looking for a fill valve, similar to a toilet fill valve but with more volume. These valves are available for stock watering. The price runs from about 80 to 180. Back to the shop. A couple of pieces of scrap steel, a couple of 3/4 pipe niples and fittings, a couple of holes drilled and a couple of bolts. We now have a servicable fill valve. (pics to come) We have been filling the tank through the small bung. We will have to cut a fill hole for the 2 fill hose. The freezing is a minor annoyance. The big advantage will be time saving. Now we can do about 2 floods per hour. With the new system we will be able to do about 4 or 5 floods per hour.
Issue #3 The discharge chute is more or less fixed. Even if it could be adjusted, I don’t want Will anywhere near the front of the machine making adjustments. His standing orders are to disengage the blower clutch and then stop the engine before he gets out of the seat. Fix- Design and build a chute that can be easily flipped from right to left, from the drivers seat.
Long term plans for warmer weather; A good paint job and replace the lettering. Replace the back pack with a proper seat. Investigate the possibility of using an electric window winder from an old car to raise and lower the snow blower. (May not happen. If I can’t make it safe for a 10 Year old I won’t do it.) Replace the battery with the proper size battery so that we can instal the right hand side panel.
RE: Mini Zamboni
The torquiest motor mechanism setup in cars may be the fore aft seat adjuster. Typically they use a worm and nut.
Year 3: DIY outdoor hockey rink dialing in and facing the weather
Thanks for stopping by DIY Projects with Pete and checking out our awesome DIY outdoor hockey rink! I’m excited to share this year’s start-to-finish video and tutorial about Year 3 of building an awesome rink.
I’ll go over all sorts of information about building your own backyard rink, with tips and tricks that I’ve learned over the last couple years. From ice resurfacing and my favorite snowblower, to accessories like lights, flags, and music.
The 60 x 120 foot outdoor rink sure was a lot of work, but it was definitely worth it. I get to inspire others and share the rink with lots of friends and family for hours of fun memories and smiles
At an elevation of 5,285 feet in the foothills of the Rocky Mountains, there’s a lot of unpredictable weather and other challenges, but there’s also an amazing view. This year, our DIY outdoor hockey rink was featured in a full spread for Nice Rink in USA Hockey Magazine! (Nov/Dec 2020 issue)
Reasons to build a DIY outdoor hockey rink
Review of the last three hockey seasons
After three years of building my own DIY outdoor hockey rink, I’ve learned a lot! I grew up building a rink in our backyard with my dad and brothers every year, so I knew what I was getting into, but doing it myself was a whole new ballgame.
One really neat tradition that we’ve started is to save a jar of water from the rink when it melts at the end of the year, and add it to the ice of next year’s rink!
Year 1: level the ground
Year 1 was about just getting started and learning, and most importantly, leveling the ground. I started with a size of 44 by 88 feet, and had to level the ground quite a bit.
In the foothills of the Rockies, my property is on a rolling hill, and the best place for a hockey rink had about a six foot differential from end to end.
I rented and borrowed a combination of equipment to basically remove 3 feet of dirt from one end and add it to the other end. After a weekend of hard work and diesel fuel, the full rink was pretty darn level, within a few inches at least.
Year 2: make it bigger, level some more
Year 2 upped the ante by increasing the size and amenities. The size of my DIY outdoor hockey rink increased from 44 x 88 feet to 60 x 120 feet. The bigger size required another round of heavy equipment to level the playing field.
For reference, a standard NHL hockey rink is 85 x 200 feet, and Olympic size is 98.4 x 197 feet (an even 30 x 60 metric meters). There’s an image of rink sizes a little further down.
Renting a skid steer and/or small excavator will run you 200-300/day per unit, so you’ll want to plan a long day to get as much done as you can.
Or you might get lucky by having a friend with that type of equipment. A tractor with a loader and a box blade can go a long way too.
We also used a laser level to help with the leveling process and I would highly recommend renting one for the day, usually around 50/day. The video above shows the full leveling process.
Year 3: dialing it in
Year 3 was all about dialing in the rink. and battling the weather. We had a lot of maintenance and troubleshooting to do because of the unpredictable weather, including both warm and cold days, snow, and 60 mph winds.
At the initial filling and freezing of the rink, an unexpected snow system came in and caused a bumpy, ridge-filled ice surface that took a lot of reckoning to get smooth.
A combination of bucket dumps, a propane weed torch, and just skating on the rink finally got it to a good place (I’ll talk more about these troubleshooting methods below).
Throughout the season, snow and wind created hard drifts along the edges of the rink that were really difficult to clear out and required a serious snowblower. I’ll also talk more about snowblowers below.
During the summer before year 3, I trenched out electrical power for the lights and music. We planted grass that started to grow and made a great field for football, soccer, frisbee, and Spike ball during the summer.
Year 4: snow control and a warming house
You bet I have plans for year 4 already! For starters, some strategic snow fencing. Snow fences are those orange holey fences, kind of like a big version of bright plastic chicken wire. They are useful because when the wind blows, the snow drifts around the fences—and hopefully not on the hockey rink!
I also want to build a warming house. We’ve had a fireplace and benches, and sometimes bring in an enclosed equipment trailer for big days like on New Years Eve, but I would like a more permanent structure.
A warming house is nice to warm up in of course, but it’d also be a great place to keep all the extra gear. When you have your own DIY backyard hockey rink, you end up collecting lots of skates, sticks, gloves, and shovels!
Overview of the basic steps to build a DIY outdoor hockey rink
I will go into plenty more detail on each of these steps, but just a quick overview of the process here:
- Choose the best area and size for your rink
- Level the ground if necessary
- Stake, string, and spray paint the outline
- Install boards and brackets
- Add liner and pull taut
- Fill with water (lots of it!)
- Add kick plates and bumpers to your boards (if you choose to)
- Let it freeze—and hope for cold, clear weather!
- Troubleshoot bumps and ridges
- Shovel and resurface as necessary
- Add hockey goals and a ‘shooter tutor’
- Hang lights for night skating on posts or nearby trees
- Hang a net to catch pucks
- Accessorize with flags, fire, benches, and music
- Invite your friends over and drop the puck!
Choose the best area and size for your DIY outdoor hockey rink
First thing you’ll need to figure out is exactly where to put your outdoor rink, and what size it will be. You’ll need a big open space and the flatter the better.
I’d aim for variation of not much more than 6 inches across the area for the rink.
Water is self-leveling, so we’ve got that going for us, but that means that if there is a hill, the water will be very deep on the lower side.
Deeper water means it will require more water, take longer to freeze, and your boards will end up being very short, so your pucks go flying out more.
Hopefully your yard will work, but if not, you can rent some equipment and level it yourself.
A lot of people ask me why I don’t build a full-size outdoor rink, and there are a few reasons.
It’s a lot of maintenance and snow removal to work on already at its current size. It takes more resources to build bigger: more boards and materials, more water, more lights, etc.
But the best reason is because a smaller size rink is perfect for smaller pickup games and 3-on-3 hockey. If it were a full-size rink, you’d get tired real quick without a full team! (5-on-5 plus goalies.)
This is a screenshot from the Outdoor Rink Heaven instagram feed (@odrheaven)
This is where looking at other peoples’ rinks can really help for inspiration. Some folks set up boards on an actual lake, some rinks are nestled in a fenced in yard.
Backyard Ice Rinks and their group, and Outdoor Rink Heaven’s Instagram feed have pictures of DIY backyard ice rinks from all over the frozen world.
These websites also have great communities willing to help out with ideas and share what has worked and has not worked. In addition to rink placement, they’re great resources for other building tips, ice resurfacing, and tons more.
Level the ground if necessary
If you think you might need to level your ground, a laser level is the right tool for the job. I walk through the process in the leveling video a little further up in the post, under the Year 2 heading.
Basically, you set the main part on the ground nearby, then walk around with the other part that beeps when it’s level with the main part. In the picture above, we’re finding the high spots and marking them with spray paint, so we can flatten them out.
Stake, string, and spray paint the outline
For this part, you’ll want a long measuring tape roll to measure out all the sides of the rink, and then square them up by measuring the diagonal.
I recommend using a little math to get it just right—Pythagorean’s Theorem can help you calculate what the diagonal measurement should be to make the corner angles perfectly 90 degrees.
For my Year 1 rink that was 44 x 88 feet, the diagonal is 98.4 feet.
If you’re a little rusty with all the math symbols, just google Pythagorean theorem calculator and you should be able to easily plug in your basic measurements.
Alternatively, you can just measure each diagonal and get them to be the same. but that will require a lot of back and forth measuring and tweaking, so I really recommend doing the math.
Once you get four corner points that are definitely square to each other, run string between each of them to give you a straight line.
Then, walk around with a can of spray paint to mark a straight line below the string. This helps a lot when installing boards to make sure they’re nice and straight, and will be square at the corners.
At this point, I also like to measure in at each corner and make a hash mark where the corners will be rounded. It’s not necessary to curve your corners, but it looks more like a real hockey rink and importantly, you can wrap the puck around the corners for a sneaky pass or to clear the zone.
Install hockey boards and brackets
There are a few different options for boards and I’ve covered them in my 2018 blog post about How to build a backyard hockey rink.
The full DIY option is to rip plywood into 12 inch wide strips or use other similar-sized boards and build 2×4 brackets to hold them up, with rebar stakes.
A similar option is to use 3/4 thick plywood strips or other boards and hold them up with plastic brackets from Nice Rink.
Or, go all the way with Nice Rink for brackets, high impact plastic boards, kickplates, and foam bumpers, which is what I do. They sell full packages with everything you need for whatever size rink you want.
Tyler from Nice Rink demonstrates using their brackets with plywood. Their website has several how-to videos.
I’ve been using Nice Rink for all my backyard rink builds. I’ve been very happy with both the product and working with the owners, Jim and Tyler. The father-son duo have been out to my rink and they’re very nice folks from Wisconsin.
The plastic for the boards, brackets, and liner is high quality, well-designed, and doesn’t crack or rip in cold temperatures.
To install the boards, first lay out the boards and brackets all around the rink. Step in or hammer the brackets along the spray paint line and place your boards into the brackets. You’ll want to do the brackets and boards together as you go—don’t just hammer in all the brackets first.
The Nice Rink system works super well and everything snaps together snugly. It also unsnaps and stores easily at the end of the year. You don’t have to worry about the plastic warping, and if it needs it, you can just hose it down to clean off any mud.
It usually takes a couple hours to do the whole rink, and it definitely helps to have a crew of friends. Once you get the hang of it, it goes pretty fast!
Add liner and pull taut
Once the boards are in, it’s time for the liner. It’s basically a giant tarp that you can buy from Nice Rink. White is the best color because it will absorb the least amount of heat from the sun.
You’ll be watching the weather a lot of course, but for the tarp, watch especially for wind. Year 2 was really windy and a total pain to put the liner in, even with a few friends.
Homemade Zamboni
So year 3, I had some friends lined up to help in the evening, but when it was calm that morning, I jumped on it. I was able to spread it out and pull taut by myself, it just took a few (or several) laps around the rink. But I would recommend doing it by yourself with no wind versus doing it with friends and wind.
Fill with water (lots of it!)
Next up, just add water! It will take a few days to fill your rink because we’re talking about thousands of gallons of water. You can calculate how many gallons your DIY backyard ice rink will need with this handy Backyard Ice Rink Water Calculator.
I recommend filling to at least 4 of water in your shallowest area. This will cover any bumps in the ground or bubbles in the liner, and just provide a super solid surface for a season of skating.
Your water source will depend on your house and where you live, but generally there are three options: your house/local water, a well if you have one, or trucking it in.
For year 3, I went totally with the well because I had an inspection and decided it could handle it. There would be enough water in the well, and the pump was strong enough to work for that long.
To calculate a rough amount of time that it will take by filling from your hose, fill a 5 gallon bucket and time it. It took about 50 seconds for me, so 10 seconds per gallon. Then just multiply that by your total amount of gallons.
My rink this year took 3 and 3/4 days to fill!
In year 2, I trucked in most of the water. This took several loads and a lot of time. I was fortunate to have a good friend with a family in the business of hauling things like water.
Add kick plates and bumpers to your boards (if you choose to)
The kickplates and foam bumpers definitely add a level of finish to the rink, and have a few other advantages. Mainly, they hold the liner in place and protect it from getting cut by skates, sticks, and pucks.
The kick plates smooth out the boards too, especially in the corners. And the bumpers make a nice soft edge on the top for any falls, which is just a good idea.
Put in the kick plates once the rink is mostly full of water and has stretched the liner all the way. You can maybe pull the liner a little more taut up and over the edge, then put on the kick plates.
Do it while the water is still liquid, and the kick plates will freeze in solid—a bit beneath the ice, which is what you want.
To install them, the premium L top version just slides on over the boards and liner. The regular kick plates include screws to screw them in place.
You need to overlap the kick plates a few inches, and try to do it in the same direction all around the rink. That will help with shoveling and resurfacing, so that you can go one direction and not get caught on any loose edges.
The bumpers just slide right over the board, liner, and kick plates. They’re like beefed up versions of pool noodles, with a channel down the middle. When you make it all the way around the rink, just cut a little bit off the last noodle to fit.
Home made lawn mower Zamboni
Let it freeze—and hope for cold, clear weather!
With the boards in, the rink filled, and the kickplates installed, it’s time to sit back and wait. Your DIY outdoor hockey rink just needs a little time to chill.
Give it a good 3 or 4 days before walking on it. time if the ice is really thick or if the temps aren’t that cold.
If you’re super lucky, the rink will freeze smooth and clear. If you’re like me in the Rockies, you’ll probably get an unexpected snowstorm. even if you’ve been watching the weather for weeks!
If it snows before the rink is frozen, it’s not great, but it’s fixable. Year 3 was pretty bad for this, but I was able to remedy it with a few techniques—see below.
Troubleshoot bumps and ridges
Boy, the snow system that dumped right during the freezing time was a pretty big bummer. It created a slush that froze and made it really bumpy and had a few big ridges. But the only thing to do was to get out and try to fix it!
I found a few helpful ideas on the community of Backyard Ice Rinks and tried bucket dumps. For a bucket dump, you just want to dump a large amount of water all at once that will fill in all the low spots.
You can drag around a trash can or wheel barrow full of water. I had a small ATV trailer that worked well since it was on wheels and had a nice waterproof bed.
Another technique was to use heat from a propane weed torch. This ended up working well to fix smaller bumps and air bubbles, but it didn’t really work for the ridges.
Once you’ve smoothed out as many big bumps, ridges, bubbles, and debris as you can, you can always try a normal resurfacing coat. It might take a few coats!
Lastly, just skating on the rink will shave off some of the problem areas. Just get out there and start enjoying it, even if it isn’t perfect!
You’ll find different patterns of shoveling work well for different types of snow
Shovel and resurface the rink as necessary
Congratulations, you’ve signed up for a great winter exercise routine (in addition to your normal skating)! You will spend a good deal of time shoveling the rink, from fallen snow and also snow from skating.
At an indoor hockey rink, the ice resurfacer has a built in blade to shovel and scoop the ice shavings, but for me it’s a two step process. First I shovel the ice as best as I can, then I resurface.
You’re probably wondering why I don’t just say Zamboni instead of ice resurfacer. Well, Zamboni is a very popular brand that makes ice resurfacers, but it is not the generic term. So it’s more proper to say ice resurfacer.
Anyway, ice resurfacing on a DIY outdoor hockey rink usually takes a bit more time and effort than driving around a Zamboni or Olympia machine.
If you’ve got the energy, it’s great to do it at the end of a night of skating. You might still have a team to help shovel, and you’ll have the whole night to let the water freeze solid.
I usually resurface once a week or so, depending on how many folks skate on the rink and how often. If I’m getting ready for a big skating party, I like to have fresh ice to enjoy with everyone!
Add hockey goals and a ‘shooter tutor’
Hockey goals are made of big heavy steel bars, usually painted red. You can maybe pick them up locally, otherwise you can also buy them from an online hockey store.
I like to practice my shooting with a goalie target or a ‘Shooter Tutor.’ It has a goalie printed on it and holes cut out for the main targets to shoot at: each corner plus the five hole, between the legs. You can use bungees or zipties to attach it.
Hang lights for night skating on posts or nearby trees
If you live where it’s cold enough for an outdoor hockey rink, you probably live far enough from the equator that it gets dark pretty early. In Montana in the middle of the winter, it gets dark around 4 or 5 in the afternoon, so you end up skating in the dark quite a bit.
So it makes sense to spend some time and money on good lights. The first year I built large posts out of 4x4s that sat on top of the ground and they worked pretty well.
Already by Year 2, I cemented in the posts by augering holes and filling them with concrete. Then I welded up metal post-holders and attached them to the concrete, with long 4×4 wood posts reaching skyward from the brackets.
I purchased LED lights with 36,000 lumens from Amazon and they’re super bright. They require 220v electricity, so keep an eye out if you only have access to the usual 110v and buy the appropriate style.
With my size of rink, I did six total lights: one on each corner and one in the middle on both sides.
For a smaller rink, you could get by with just the corners or even one light on each end. On our rink growing up, there was a tree on both ends that limited the size of the rink but worked well for attaching lights to.
Remember to attach the lights at a bit of angle to point down and get the most out of them. I used some scrap wood to make a 30 degree angled bracket for the lights.
Hang a net to catch pucks
You’ll lose pucks into the snow no matter what—I found 91 pucks in the grass this spring! But to try to minimize that, I hung up nets on each end of the ring between the light posts. There are a variety of nets and sizes available here.
I used a combination of 3/8 cable and u-bolts, eye-bolts, pulleys, and carabiners to hang the cable between the posts and pull it taut.
Accessorize with flags, fire, benches, and music
I like to share my own team pride and friends’ too by hanging flags for our favorite teams. There’s usually about five flags flying at center ice: flags for the USA, Canada, Norway, the Montana state flag, and the Olympic flag. It’s especially windy in Montana so I pay a little more for a flag that will last.
I’ve found Fanatics to be the favorite site with good quality banners, good prices, and tons of cool stuff for all different sports and teams. I made metal brackets that attach to the light posts for team banners, and later added wood brackets, too.
Here you can see my original metal bracket for the Montana banner, and a wood version for the Kings banner
The Minnesota Wild is my team, but I also share the love with a few other NHL teams. I’ve got the local Montana State University Bobcats flying too.
Two of my YouTube subscribers sent me banners this year so I hung those up: banners for the Boston Bruins and the LA Kings.
A fire place is great to warm up around on those cold nights, and just adds a neat vibe and nice smoky smell. I have had good luck with a Solo Stove metal fireplace. It keeps the fire contained well and has good air flow to get the fire started easily.
You’re going to want benches for taking a break. I had built some already and here are DIY plans for a basic bench. Of course a cooler or a stump always works, too!
I’ve upgraded from a small battery-powered boom box to four Atrium 6 outdoor speakers powered by a small Fosi Audio amp. They’re installed on the light posts because they’re nice and high to project the sound and there’s already electricity at the posts.
Invite your friends over and drop the puck!
After all that hard work and preparation, it’s time to enjoy! I’ve learned that the saying from Field of Dreams is true, if you build it, they will come. like Rink of Dreams!
You’ll enjoy late night 3-on-3 games with your hockey team, afternoon lessons with the kiddos, and everything in between.
tips and tricks for building and maintaining your DIY outdoor hockey rink
Those are all the tips for actually building your very own DIY outdoor hockey rink. Oofda, it’s a lot, I know!
Now, I’ll go over a few other considerations about building and maintaining your own rink for maximum fun.
Ice resurfacing options
Like at an indoor hockey rink, you’ll want to resurface the ice with a smooth coat every once in a while. At an indoor rink, they do it between every game or even every 20 minute period. that’s probably not realistic for your DIY outdoor hockey rink, but there are some ways to make it fairly easy.
I try to resurface once a week or so, especially after big days with lots of people skating.
The basic idea is to cover the ice with a new layer of water, which will level itself and freeze into a new smooth layer.
Growing up, I remember my dad just walking around the rink with an open ended hose and spreading the water the best he could. Eventually though, we upgraded to a Nice Rink resurfacer.
So I’ve been using the Nice Rink resurfacer for a long time! It is the simplest and least expensive way to get a good coat of water on your ice.
It’s made of steel tubes with tiny holes along the bottom and a towel to spread the water out—very similar to a real Zamboni! You simply hook up a hose and walk around your rink. You will need a lot of hose and a hose cart, which is the most annoying part to deal with.
The next option is to use a similar setup with tiny holes and a towel but pull it behind a small vehicle.
You’ll want a large tank of water so that you don’t have to worry about being tethered by a hose. I found an old 65 gallon tank and fill it up twice for my big rink.
You can build the holey tube and towel device out of metal pipe or PVC. I’ve found PVC to work well because it’s light, easy to cut, and holds up just fine. Don’t forget to add an on/off valve!
However. If you give a small vehicle a large tank of water, you’re going to have to counter balance it with weights in the front. And if you add weights to the front, you’re gonna have to beef up the frame. I learned the hard way!
My friends gifted me with a little tractor that they found for cheap on Craigslist and we started welding brackets on for the water tank and counter balance weights.
The first time we took it out fully loaded, the frame literally bent in half!
We used a skid steer and some boards to push it back down into a straight shape. Then I reinforced the frame by welding on several more pieces of thick metal.
The full-length video about my tractor build that is embedded above covers even more details. If you’re interested in building your own DIY Zamboni, be sure to check it out. I learned a lot and made many adjustments along the way!
A lower tech version is to use some sort of wagon that you can just pull yourself or use as a trailer. Fill up a large tank or a garbage can and you should be pretty set.
I’ve also used a UTV like a Polaris Ranger and it is a strong vehicle but a little too big for the job. It’s tough to get into the corners very well without running into your boards. You can use Reverse to maneuver a little better, but you don’t want the water to pool too much.
Also, be sure to shovel really well before resurfacing!
Shovel options
We get A LOT of snow, so I definitely have experience with and opinions on all sorts of shovels. Lightweight plastic shovels can work well for light fluffy snow. Metal shovels are much better for scraping compacted snow and ice. And then there’s snowblowers, too.
Specifically for my hockey rink, I’ve found Snowplow four foot shovels to work best for light shoveling between rounds of skating. They are wide to cover a lot of area and light enough to not dig in too much. This is what we’ll usually do ‘between periods’ or while we’re taking a break.
Before I actually resurface the ice, I prefer a metal shovel to just get a little more snow off the ice. They’re heavier and have a sharper edge so they do a better job of picking up all the snow from skating.
The more shovels you have, the better, so that you can get more help. Many shovels make light work!
Snowblower options
Shovels work well for light snow and clearing the snow from skating, but when we get a real dump, it’s time for the heavy machinery! I’ll review small, medium, and large snowblowers below.
The classic walk-behind snow blower I use a lot because it’s easiest to get on the ice and fired up. It’s 28 wide, light and easy to maneuver near the edges without damaging the boards. However, if the snow is too drifted and hard, the light weight can work against it, and it won’t get all the way down to the bottom ice surface.
I was excited for a snowblower for my ATV 4-wheeler, thinking it would be just the right size at 60 wide. It throws snow pretty well, but it’s pretty tough to maneuver and turn. And I’ve had a few other issues with it too, so I don’t really like using it.
After a big, windy storm, I bring out the skid steer with an 84 snowblower. It’s a tank and weighs in at 9,000 pounds! I have to remove a section of boards in order to drive it onto the rink.
I’ve used it for the last two seasons and have not had problems with cracking the ice, but you definitely want to make sure everything is frozen solid before driving on the rink.
It’s great for moving the big stuff, but it doesn’t always get all the way down to the ice. So anything that it misses will get compressed by the tires and can form ridges on the ice. Especially if it’s a sunny day, those compressed tire tracks will bake right into the ice, so you have to be careful of that!
I’ve also seen folks use a power sweeper and claim that it’s a game changer. I bought one too but haven’t had much experience with it yet. It’s definitely more of a finishing tool though, not gonna bust through drifts with a brush. It will probably be great for using before resurfacing.
Other tips and things to look out for
Anything that’s dark will absorb energy from the sun and can melt a hole in your outdoor ice surface. Black hockey pucks, obviously, but also leaves, grass, or any other debris. So always be on the look out for these, especially when the sun’s out, and remove them.
I did an experiment and set a puck in the ice for about an hour on a sunny 25 degree day and it melted a hole about a 1/2 inch deep (1.3 cm)! This problem isn’t too tough to fix but it’s best to avoid.
To fix a big hole like this, pack in some snow, add a little water, and smooth it over with something like a puck. It should freeze smooth overnight.
Using hot water to resurface the ice is not necessary but can help quite a bit. The warmth helps melt any bumps and just creates a better bond between the old ice and the new layer.
I ended up getting a portable hot water heater that works with propane. It heats water from the hose on the fly, so it’s quite convenient and not a huge device.
I also ran a hot water line out from the house, which required a bit of plumbing work in the basement. It wasn’t too tough to find the hot water line and add a T off of it. The spigot I use has the actual valve placed a ways back into the house, so it’s more insulated and doesn’t freeze.
Year-end teardown
At the end of the season, your ice will melt into a pond. It’s time to tear it down and store everything until next year. Get yourself a good pair of waterproof boots (if you haven’t done that already!).
Fill a jar with water from your rink if you want to follow my tradition of adding last year’s water to the next year’s rink.
If you’re using the Nice Rink system, you’ll remove the bumpers and kickplates first.
To remove the liner, you can try to save it, but it gets really muddy and I’ve never been able to roll it up to a size anywhere close to how it came. I also have a pretty big rink though, so it might be more manageable with a smaller rink.
I’ve been able to donate sections of the waterproof liner to friends and locals who use it for all sorts of things, so try to recycle it that way if ya can. Otherwise it’s a trip to the dump.
I’ll cut it up into sections and the water just runs out and back into the earth. It does get very muddy, so be ready! I’m working on planting grass where the rink is, so that will help with run-off and mud.
Then take down all the boards, take out the board brackets, and start stacking ’em. The plastic Nice Rink boards are also easy to hose off if you want to store them clean. I store them on a pallet that I can move around with my skid steer.
A leaf blower can add just a little extra power to your skating!
Other DIY outdoor hockey rink resources
Thanks for making it this far through the tutorial about how to build a DIY outdoor hockey rink! I’ll include a few more helpful resources and then wrap it up.
Coach Jeremy has a great YouTube channel about building his own rink, funny hockey moments, as well as drills and practice ideas for hockey players.
Elevated Hockey hosts camps, shares drill ideas on Instagram, and has a great podcast for players and coaches.
Backyard Ice Rinks has an amazing community that can be super helpful for ideas and troubleshooting.
Outdoor Rink Heaven is the Instagram channel that I mentioned above with incredible photos of outdoor rinks all around the world.
Conclusion
Wow, another great season of hockey and learning in the books, and a big tutorial and video for folks to enjoy and hopefully be inspired by.
In the video, it may seem like it snows every other day in Montana. and that might be kind of true! But all the shoveling and snowblowing and general outdoor rink maintenance is totally worth it.
The weather in the foothills of the Rocky Mountains can be very windy, snowy, and unpredictable. Hopefully wherever you live will have a little less of those conditions!
Please share all your outdoor rink experiences, from building tips to fun memories below in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев—I always love to hear about it and I try to reply back!
Alrighty, thanks again for reading this article and watching my video. Please consider subscribing to my YouTube channel if you haven’t already—that’s the easiest and best way to support what I do!
Human Zamboni Machines of au Lake State Park
On of my favorite childhood memories was going to an outdoor ice skating rink behind a warehouse in South Glens Falls in Warren County. It was only a field with a large frozen puddle but to me it was amazing. Years later now in my role as manager at au Lake State Park, I wanted to give people near my park the same opportunity.
I started researching ice rinks and how to make them safe but also affordable for the park. While we do have the lake to work with, lake and pond ice usually is bumpy and cracked, thus making stumbles and falls more likely. As I continued researching online, an image of a homemade Zamboni apparatus popped up. Major ice rinks use large Zamboni machines to lay down smooth coats of ice on indoor rinks, but that kind of heavy machinery was not in my budget, so the hand-made model I saw looked like the way to go!
Using a steady flow of warm water to apply a continuous smooth ice surface just like the big machines, a small, human-powered Zamboni was my solution to make lake ice smooth and safe for skaters.
Our two homemade units were created by Aaron Aiken, a staffer at au, who fabricated them after seeing the online photo. It was amazing. Aaron simply gathered all the materials he needed and finished in a day. We had most of the parts needed on hand at the park so there was little to no cost to us.
Aaron assembled a 55-gallon poly tank (used to hold the warm water), a 10-foot piece of 2-inch PVC pipe, a 2-inch PVC valve, a 4-foot piece of felt or wool (for trailing the water and flattening it out as smooth ice) and a sturdy wheeled cart. With that and a bit of ingenuity _ presto, a human powered Zamboni machine!
Zambonis work by slowly drizzling out warm water over the surface of existing ice. The warm water melts all the high spots and fills in all the lows before freezing to create a perfectly smooth surface perfect for skating. The operator judges how fast they want water to come out by adjusting the flow with the valve.
At au, our crew pulls a Zamboni around the rink three times before it runs out of water, and then the other Zamboni takes its place. It is important to have two setups because ridges can form in the ice if you stop putting down warm water even for an instant. To create a smooth rink, it took about 110 gallons of water, applied by two Zambonis over six laps, for a total of about an hour of work.
Another service that au Lake State Park provides to visitors is the Daily Ice Report. Parks staffers measure the thickness of the ice starting a day after rink ice is laid on, meaning when the ice totally covers the surface of the lake, we wait a day and then start the ice thickness report. Two staff members start at shore with an ice auger and drill through the ice and measure the thickness. If it is under 3 inches they stop at that hole. If it is over 4 inches, they move out 20 feet and drill another hole. They follow the same procedures until it is determined that the average thickness (average readings taken from multiple places on the lake) is at least 6 inches.
When that happens, the lake is opened to skaters, pedestrians and ice fishermen. These ice reports are published over social media every day at 8:00 a.m. until the ice is safe and then these reports are replaced by the open one.
All this comes together to make the lake a safe and enjoyable place to recreate in the winter. At our rink, located just off the beach, a campfire is usually going nearby so skaters can warm themselves. So grab your skates (or borrow ours) and give us a visit!
Cover shot – au staffer Jay Hauser (foreground) pulls a homemade Zamboni around the skating rink at au Lake State Park, as fellow staffer Donna Fortner comes along behind with the second Zamboni. All images NYS Parks unless otherwise noted.
Post by Al LaFountain, Park Manager, au Lake State Park and Grant Cottage State Historic Site
about au Lake State Park
Covering some 6,250 acres in Saratoga County, au Lake State Park features hardwood forests, pine stands, and rocky ridges. than 30 miles of hiking trails are available, and can be used for snowshoeing and cross-country skiing in winter. Snowshoe rentals are available.
Last year, Governor Kathy Hochul announced an 860-acre expansion of this park to include spectacular natural habitat along an undeveloped stretch of the Hudson River that will be known as Big Bend Point. This acquisition makes au Lake State Park one of the ten largest parks in the state park system.
Resources
Learn about a Gilded Age ice skater who helped promote figure skating for women from this previous blog post by the curator at Staatsburgh State Historic Site.
Gilded Age Ice Skater Carved Early Path
Staatsburgh State Historic Site, formerly the Gilded Age estate of the very wealthy and socially-prominent Ruth Livingston Mills and her husband, financier and philanthropist Ogden Mills, sits along the eastern bank of the Hudson River in the mid-Hudson Valley. Commanding a view of the river and the Catskill Mountains, the estate’s Beaux-Arts mansion was once…
“Skating is in my heart, not my head.” – Olympic Medalist Michelle Kwan
The Libs Are Comin’ for Your Leaf Blowers, Patriots
Plus Texas-style DQ, another new veggie burger, and the Strib’s new boss suggests a digital future in today’s Flyover.
3:39 PM CST on February 14, 2023
Welcome back to The Flyover, your daily digest of what local media outlets and.ers are gabbing about.
Reasonable DFL Bill Likely to Panic Your Weird Older Relatives
Two DFL reps have introduced a bill in the Minnesota House that would ban the sale of gas-powered lawn mowers, weed wackers, and leaf blowers by 2025, according to the Minnesota Reformer. At that point, if the bill becomes law, you’d only have electric-powered devices available. Seems these gassy items of equipment contain a two-stroke engine, which spews out an incredible amount of carbon monoxide and hydrocarbons—one leaf blower pukes out as great an amount of pollutants as a pick up. California has already banned these pollution-generators, and other state legislatures are considering it. The law would not apply to snowblowers, but would cover ice resurfacing machines, as the trademark-protective folks at Zamboni insist you call all Zamboni-like devices that they don’t manufacture. We expect news of this bill to lead to media-stoked rumors of Walz’s shock troops stealing grandpa’s lawn mower and a defiant spike in gas mower sales before the freedom-hating libs get their way.
Let a New Minnesota-Texas Rivalry Commence
Hey Dairy Queen fans, ever tried The Dude? How about a Hungr-Buster? You sure haven’t up here in Minnesota, where DQ Corporate is based, and where the franchised ice cream sheds have a loyal following. (This ranking, for instance, sparked a whole lotta debate.) But according to this Texas Monthly story about how DQ began a long process of Tex-ification 50 years ago, the state’s Dairy Queens serve up a steak-finger country basket, the aforementioned Dude (a chicken-fried-steak sandwich), and a whole series of Buster burgers, including the Belt-Buster and the Triple-Buster. They’ve even got their own slogan down there: “That’s what I like about Texas.” The story explains how the Texas Dairy Queen Operators Council (TDQOC) began an effort to adapt franchises to local tastes in 1973, emphasizing sandwiches as much as ice cream. That was largely a success, though over the past 40-some years DQs in Texas have declined from 1000 to 600.
Sheridan Room is Out, AltBurger is In
When the Sheridan Room announced that it was closing last June, people were super bummed. But now we have new news about what will be going into the spot right next to 331 Club on 13th Ave. NE: AltBurger. The “Alt,” which stands for “All Love This,” will be helmed by executive chef Derik Moran, formerly at the Dakota and Augustine, and owner Martina Priadica. According to this article over at Minneapolis/St. Paul business Journal, the food will be quick and casual, and will feature a veggie-friendly (not vegan) menu. There’s also a liquor license application in the works, with plans to open sometime mid-March.
This news comes in the middle of a Twin Cities veggie burger boom, and we’re lovin’ it. Last month we were delighted by Francis, a new vegan burger joint that makes a tasty plant-based Jucy Lucy. J. Selby’s and Reveries have great no-meat takes on the Big Mac, and the Bulldog has an excellent homemade veggie burger (be sure to add some house-made American cheese!).
Star Tribune Moves on to ‘00-era Digital Strategies with New CEO
This morning the Star Tribune announced that Steve Grove will be taking over Mike Klingensmith’s CEO/publisher gig when he retires in April. The new guy will be tasked with ushering the Minneapolis daily into a modern(ish) online era. It was clear to me that [owner Glen Taylor] and Mike and the whole team know that a pretty significant transformation is needed so there is a long-term growth model that’s going to work, Grove tells his employee in an interview. You have to build a digital-first company if you want to survive in today’s ecosystem. A Northfield native, Grove is currently at Minnesota’s Department of Employment and Economic Development; before that he was an executive at Google and a founder of YouTube’s news and politics team. If you asked an AI to draw up a resume for a Star Tribune publisher job, I don’t think they could do any better than Steve Grove, said Klingensmith, possibly dreaming of a Buzzfeed-like end goal of a newsroom made up of robots.
Zamboni Pattern Lawn Mowing
Not everyone is crazy about lawn mowing. Some guys want to get it over with as quickly as possible while also producing a satisfying result. Inevitably, though, they end up riding around randomly, attacking the job in a haphazard fashion that wastes time and energy. Many find, that if they really want a professional-looking result in as short a time as possible, Zamboni pattern lawn mowing is the way to go. Before I get into describing the Zamboni pattern, however, a bit of background on the Zamboni is in order.
How Zamboni Pattern Lawn Mowing Got its Strange Name
Not everyone is an ice hockey fan, so the first question many people have when they hear about mowing a lawn in a Zamboni pattern is: “Who is Zamboni?” The thing is, the Zamboni pattern is not named after a person per se; it’s a reference to a piece of machinery. Specifically, the large 4-wheeled device that resurfaces the ice at a hockey rink between periods of a game.
That device is named for the man, Frank Zamboni, who invented it in 1949. Since then the device has been a mainstay of hockey games delighting kids of all ages who stay in their seats between periods just to watch the Zamboni work its magic. The lawn mowing pattern is so named because it’s created by mimicking the path the device takes as it moves back and forth across the ice.
The basic Zamboni pattern does not create alternating light and dark stripes in the grass like you see in a baseball outfield. That kind of striping is a topic for another day. Instead, the Zamboni method is simply a way to reduce the time it takes to mow your lawn while still achieving a great looking result.
Creating the Zamboni Pattern with Your Mower
One more note before I start: Zamboni pattern mowing will work with either a push or a riding mower. But it’s about 100% easier to do it with a riding mower. That said, whichever type of mower you choose, here’s how to do it.
Step 1: Establishing the Border – The first thing to do is to clean up the edges of the lawn so that they won’t undermine the effect when you’ve finished mowing the main body of the lawn. Do that by making a couple of nice clean passes all the way around the perimeter of the yard (just like the Zamboni does around the ice rink). If you don’t have a grass catcher on your mower make the passes in a counter-clockwise direction so that the clippings don’t blow out onto the main body of the lawn.
Step 2: Establish the Center – After the second pass around the edge, turn the mower down the center. It’s crucial that you mow in a perfectly straight line as close as you can get to the middle of the lawn because this line establishes all the other lines to follow.
Step 3: Mow in a Rectangular Pattern – Once you reach the far end of the center row, raise the deck so you don’t recut the grass around the edge, turn right and ride straight across the end of the yard until you get to one mower width from the side of the yard. At that point, drop the deck, turn right and mow straight back toward the other end of the yard. When you reach the end, raise the deck and turn right again. Ride straight along the end until you pass the centerline you established, then drop the deck, turn right and mow toward the far end of the yard overlapping the centerline by a couple of inches.
Essentially what you are doing is riding in a rectangular pattern and shifting the rectangle one mower width to the left with each pass until you cover the entire yard. This is exactly what the Zamboni does at the hockey rink, hence the name of the pattern. What mowing in the Zamboni pattern will do is make the process more efficient while still allowing you to achieve a nice looking lawn. No more putzing around chasing down spots you missed.
Avoid This Mistake
The most common mistake people make with the Zamboni method of lawn mowing is not creating a straight centerline. Creating a wavy center line is going to cause you to miss spots during subsequent passes, it’s inevitable. You’ll then need to go back over much of the lawn chasing down these missed patches, which negates the whole point of the exercise, which is to make lawn mowing more efficient.
If it helps, you can go out into the yard before you mow and establish a centerline. If there are no natural markers you can identify then determine where the center of the yard is and place your own marker at each end. Use these markers as a guide to create a perfectly straight centerline with your mower. Once you establish that nice straight centerline, everything else will fall into place.
Epilogue
By establishing an efficient mowing pattern you should be able to mow the entire lawn without stopping, and in as little time as possible. As I mentioned earlier, however, don’t expect Zamboni pattern mowing to produce those alternating dark/light stripes you see on the baseball field. Zamboni style mowing is strictly a matter of making the process more efficient, so you can free up time to spend your Saturday afternoon napping on the sofa. Hope you found this brief tutorial helpful.
About Tom Greene
I’ve always had a keen interest in lawn care as long as I can remember. Friends used to call me the lawn mower guru (hence the site name), but I’m anything but. I just enjoy cutting my lawn and spending time outdoors. I also love the well-deserved doughnuts and coffee afterward!
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