Lawn mower aerator blade. Dethatching blade vs power rake: Which way

Dethatching blade vs power rake : Which way?

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We have been discussing lawn maintenance in our blog quite often (see all the posts we have done in the last few months here).

But there is one question that we are yet to address even though it seems to be bothering a significant number of our readers: dethatching blade vs power rake.

You see, you may, from time to time, want to remove thatch from your yard- remember that excessive thatch buildup can lead to poor lawn health because the accumulated thatch prevents essentials such as water, air, and fertilizer from reaching your grass roots.

That is where the dethatching blade vs power rake debated comes up- you can purchase/rent a power rake or get a specialized dethatching blade for your lawn mower (these can efficiently remove thatch too).

So, should you go for a dethatching blade or rent/buy a power rake?

Below we take a closer look at each of the two options including how each works and when you should use each.

Overview of Dethatching Blades

Dethatching Blades mostly resemble regular lawnmowing blades but have tines (plastic) or springs (metal) that hang down.

It is the tines/springs that whip the accumulated thatch out of your yard as you drive the mower over your grass.

Can a Dethatching Blade work?

In general, the specialized dethatching blades that are usually sold as a lawn-mower attachment are only moderately effective when it comes to removing the dead thatch layer from lawns.

In truth, if not set up correctly, the dethatching blade sometimes ends up cutting your grass rather than de-thatching the dead grass layer underneath.

Reason? Most of the blades don’t go deep enough.

Plus, some are not sturdy enough for the job and can break before you finish going over your back yard particularly for lawns with a massive layer of dead grass/thatch.

How to get the most out of dethatching blades

If you must use a blade to dethatch, try to follow the dethatching directions that come with the blade– each manufacturer will have easy-to-follow instructions to help you install it and do the job right.

That said, setting the lawn mower to its lowest setting helps the blade touch the ground (and get to the thatch).

On the other hand, you can set your mower a bit higher when dethatching the greener parts (those with just a moderate layer of thatch) – it tends to do a better job of removing thatch at this setting while leaving your live grass mostly unharmed.

When to use a dethatching blade

Despite the shortcomings, still there are instances that using a dethatching blade would make more sense.

This is primarily when you just have a minor thatch problem- you have very light thatch plaguing your yard.

Don’t forget that it is the less expensive option as well and it could be viable if the idea of buying an expensive tool that you’ll hardly be using doesn’t excite you (power rakes are costlier if you’re looking to buy).

What is the best dethatching blade?

Since our goal is to arm you with all the vital information – it is the only way you can make a decision you won’t regret later- here is what you should know about the available types of dethatching blades:

Now, there are two key varieties of dethatching blades;1) those with metal springs 2) Those with nylon trimmer-line attachment.

Type 1: Dethatching blade with metal spring attachment

These are the most popular option.

They do a great job when it comes to the removal of light thatch from smaller areas.

importantly, the spring tines (hanging down the blade) tend to be gentler on grass.

Furthermore, you can even put the thatch you dethatch with your spring tines attachment in rows for easier pick up.

Type 2: Dethatching blade with nylon trimmer-line attachment

Any blade with a nylon trimmer-line attachment usually destroys healthy grass and is best avoided.

Note that they use the lengths of their nylon trimmer line/cord as tough bristles when dethatching lawns, leading to possible damage.

Overview of a Power Rake

A power rake features many tines/blades – these are fixed and look pretty similar to the ones you find on garden machines such as roto-tillers.

The fitted knife-type blades slices through the dead debris and other organic material sitting underneath the surface as you push it over the yard (or tow it behind your tractor).

It’s worth mentioning that the tines/blades rotate as its wheels spin (the tine-controlling gear turns once the wheels start to spin) triggering the dethatching action.

Does a Power rake really work?

I won’t mince words here: of the two, a power rake is certainly the more suitable option for dense thatch removal (works amazingly well when thatch is really thick).

One of the best things about the machine is that you can adjust the blades to your desired height so as to cut and lift thatch without hurting your live grass/grass roots.

When to use a power rake

In a nutshell, the more ideal tool to remove humongous amounts of thatch from severely distressed lawns is the power rake.

Put another way, this is your go-to tool if your yard looks mostly yellow because of terrible thatch infestation.

The major downside is the cost- I already mentioned that these machines are mainly designed for commercial purposes so their are comparatively higher.

On top of that, power raking is a more aggressive thatch removal technique and it is likelier to hurt the grass.

For this reason, your grass may need more time to heal from the process compared to when you remove thatch using a dethatching blade.

Dethatching blade vs power rake – recap

On the whole, a power rake is the better tool to use to get rid of thatch and works wonderfully well even where the thatch is really thick.

On the other hand, you may opt for a dethatching blade and get decent results for light thatch problems on small properties.

How to Dethatch and Aerate Your Lawn

Lawn care is simple—mow, water, and fertilize. Done! Well, there are two more things most homeowners neglect to do, to the potential detriment of their lawns: dethatching and aeration.

Thatch: A Barrier to Healthy Lawns

Thatch is a layer between the grass and the soil made up of interwoven accumulated dead and living grass shoots, stems, crowns, and roots. It creates a barrier between the soil and the green grass you so adore. A thin layer of thatch is good—about a half-inch. It helps maintain steady soil moisture and temperature. It becomes problematic when it’s thicker.

Thatch can harm lawns. It’s difficult for water to penetrate a thick thatch layer, causing water to run off instead of soaking in. It can harbor insects and lawn diseases, and grass may begin growing in the thatch layer instead of the soil, producing shallow root systems and exposing it to greater temperature extremes. It can block air, nutrients, and pesticides from reaching the roots.

You can tell if your lawn has a thatch problem when water runs off the lawn instead of soaking and you’ll begin to notice grayish-brown matts. To determine how much thatch has accumulated, cut out a wedge of lawn about two-inch deep. It should be fairly easy to identify the thatch layer between the soil and grass.

Contributing to thatch build-up are the three things you already do to maintain your lawn: mow, water, and fertilize. Compacted soil can also contribute to thatch build-up.

Am I Harming My Lawn?

Overwatering and over-fertilization contribute to thatch build-up. It’s too much of a good thing. Although infrequent mowing may be good for you, it’s not good for your lawn. You need to find a healthy maintenance balance for your lawn. The goal is to maintain your lawn so that the accumulated plant debris can decompose at the same rate the grass grows. Mow at a height and frequency recommended for your variety of grass. Use the 1/3 rule when mowing—remove no more than one-third of the blade of grass in a single mowing.

Some believe grass clippings cause thatch, but they don’t. Grass is mostly water and decomposes fairly quickly and returns nutrients to the soil. Grasscycling provides free fertilizer. Using a mulching mower helps speed the decomposition of the smaller clippings.

Fertilize as recommended, using a low-nitrogen or slow-release fertilizer like Milorganite.

Best Time to Dethatch Your Lawn

The best time to dethatch depends on grass variety and location but is optimal when the lawn is actively growing and has time to recover. In the north, late summer or early fall before the grass goes dormant are good times to dethatch, and late spring in the south.

For small areas, you can use a hand dethatching rake. I’m talking about small areas. If you’ve got a large yard—even average-sized—you would have to reserve a work week using a dethatching rake and buy a box or two of Band-AIDs ® to tend to your blisters. Leaf rakes and hard rakes could be used, but they’re just not up to the task.

Thatch builds up over time, so it’s not necessary to dethatch every year. Plan on doing it every five years or so if your lawn needs it. You might want to give your lawn a quick check every year just to see how much thatch has accumulated.

Time your long-term dethatching and aeration (we’ll get to that momentarily) schedule. We recommend aerating your lawn every other year and dethatching in a year you’re not aerating.

Power Equipment for Dethatching Your Lawn

A dethatching machine has blades that cut through and remove thatch to the soil surface. Those with knives or blades are preferred over those that use rake-like tines. Rent a dethatcher from a big-box store or equipment rental company. They’re heavy, so you’ll need a truck and a friend or two to lend a hand.

Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for using the dethatcher. Make sure the lawn is slightly moist, but not wet. Rock-hard soil is difficult to penetrate. Go over your lawn once, like your mowing. If there’s a lot of thatch, you may need to make another pass in the opposite direction to remove it all.

You’re going to have a lot of material to rake and remove. Depending on the size of your yard and the amount of thatch, it could be a SIGNIFICANT amount. You can add the debris to your compost pile (You are composting, aren’t you?) or use it as mulch around trees and shrubs ONLY if it has not been treated with an herbicide. It’ll add organic matter to the soil as it breaks down. After raking, thoroughly water the lawn. Avoid a lot of traffic on the lawn, over- or under-watering, and chemical applications until normal growth has resumed.

Prepare yourself. Your lawn is going to look, well… terrible, awful, ratty, or ragged for several weeks after dethatching. If it does, you did it correctly!

Thatch builds up over time, so it’s not necessary to dethatch every year. Plan on dethatching every five years or so if your lawn needs it. You might want to give your lawn a quick check every year just to see how much thatch has accumulated.

Steps to Detaching Your Lawn

• Timing. the best time to dethatch in the north, late summer or early fall before the grass goes dormant, and late spring in the south.
• What tool to use? For small grass areas use a dethatching hand rake, and for larger lawns rent a dethatcher from a big-box store or equipment rental company.
• How to Dethatch? Make sure the lawn is slightly moist, but not wet. Go over your lawn once, like you’re mowing. If there’s a lot of thatch, you may need to make another pass in the opposite direction to remove it all.
• Thatch debris. Add the debris to your compost pile or use it as mulch around trees and shrubs ONLY if it has not been treated with a herbicide.
• How often to dethatch? Plan on doing it every five years if your lawn needs it.

Aeration: Breathe Life into Your Lawn

The soil your lawn is growing in compresses over time. Compacted soil causes some of the same problems thatch does. The soil can become so dense water has a difficult time seeping in, grass struggles to grow, and roots gasp for air.

Aeration is the process of making holes in the lawn, which loosens the soil to improve drainage, making it easier for water, air, and fertilizer to reach the roots. It gives the roots some room to grow deeply. The result is a thicker, healthier lawn. Unfortunately, homeowners very often neglect this important maintenance practice.

There are two methods of aeration: tine or spike aeration, and core or plug aeration. Tine aeration uses tines to pierce the soil. Unfortunately, it can also further compact the soil; some don’t consider it to be aeration at all. Core aeration removes plugs of soil from the lawn and is the preferred method. Core aeration can also keep the thatch layer in check. Aeration equipment that’s pulled behind mowers tends to be ineffective.

When heavily traveled paths on the lawn start to look weak and there’s a thatch layer of an inch or more, it’s time to aerate. Lawns in good condition, with a half-inch or less of thatch, generally don’t need to be dethatched and should only need to be aerated every other year.

When and How to Aerate Your Lawn

In the north, aerate in early fall; doing it in spring can damage tender grass shoots. Avoid aerating in fall when the grass is dormant. In the south, aerate in mid-spring to early summer.

Rent an aerator from a big-box store or equipment rental company. No need to invest in equipment that takes up space and you’ll only use once every couple of years. Bring your truck and the same friends who helped you haul the dethatcher. (You may owe them a beer this time.) Consider sharing the rental cost with those same friends so they can aerate their lawns, too. Follow the manufacturer’s directions when operating the aerator.

Recommendations lean toward removing as many cores as possible—20 to 40 per square foot at a depth of 2–3 inches. Run the aerator several times in different directions if you’re not getting the recommended number of holes in one pass and loosen up highly compacted soil. Before you begin, mark sprinkler heads and anything else that may be damaged while aerating.

Core aeration will leave cores of soil on the surface of your lawn. Just leave them. They’ll break down, and the soil will work its way back down. Like dethatching, you may be a little embarrassed by how your lawn looks. It can take up to six weeks for grass to fill the resulting holes. Be strong. It’s going to look so much better.

After your lawn is breathing easier, it’s the perfect time to overseed and fertilize using a slow-release fertilizer like Milorganite.

If aerating or dethatching is a daunting task. Call a landscape maintenance company and save the beer for yourself.

Steps to Aerating Your Lawn

• Timing. In the south, aerate in mid-spring to early summer, and in the north, aerate in early fall; doing it in spring can damage tender grass shoots.
• What Tool to Use? Rent an aerator from a big-box store or equipment rental company.
• How to Aerate? Run the aerator several times in different directions if you’re not getting the recommended number of holes in one pass, and loosen up highly compacted soil. Before you begin, mark sprinkler heads and anything else that may be damaged while aerating.
• What to Do With the Soil Cores? Aeration will leave cores of soil on the surface of your lawn. Just leave them. They’ll break down, and the soil will work its way back down.
• Feed Seed. After your lawn is aerated is a perfect time to overseed and fertilize using a slow-release fertilizer like Milorganite.
• How Often to Aerate? Plan on doing it every year or two if your lawn needs it.

The 8 Best Lawn Aerators of 2023

Mary Marlowe Leverette is one of the industry’s most highly-regarded housekeeping and fabric care experts, sharing her knowledge on efficient housekeeping, laundry, and textile conservation. She is also a Master Gardener with over 40 years of experience and 20 years of writing experience. Mary is also a member of The Spruce Gardening and Plant Care Review Board.

Barbara Gillette is a Master Gardener, herbalist, beekeeper, and journalist. She has 30 years of experience propagating and growing fruits, vegetables, herbs, and ornamentals.

Rich Scherr is a seasoned technology and financial journalist who spent nearly two decades as the editor of Potomac and Bay Area Tech Wire. The Baltimore native also covered the technology scene for LocalBusiness.com and has been a regular contributor to the sports pages of The Baltimore Sun and The Washington Post.

A top-quality lawn aerator creates soil-deep holes that allow air, water, and fertilizer to reach the roots of your grass, keeping your lawn healthy, nourished, and looking its best.

When and how to aerate your lawn depends upon the type of soil and grass you have (warm-season or cold-season grasses), the size of your lawn, and the amount of foot traffic the area receives. To help you find the best lawn aerator for your needs, we researched dozens of options, evaluating ease of use, functionality, features, and overall value.

Best Overall

Brinly-Hardy PA-40BH Tow Behind Plug Aerator

• Heavy-duty construction
• Large width and 24 plugs
• No flat tires
• Weight tray

The Brinly-Hardy Tow Behind Plug Aerator wins the top spot on this list for its durable, all-steel construction and ease of use. We love that it has a universal hitch that can attach to any lawn tractor, UTV, or ATV, so you don’t have to manually move it around your yard. We also think this is an excellent option for bigger yards—the 40-inch width and 24 3-inch plugs help cover large areas quickly. Since it is a plug aerator, it is perfect for clay soils and has no-flat tires to handle different terrain without issues.

Although you do need to add the weight yourself, we appreciate that the weight tray holds up to 150 pounds of concrete blocks to ensure adequate soil depth. We also appreciate the easy-to-use transport lever that allows you to disengage the plugs quickly when you want to avoid sidewalks or sprinkler components. Keep in mind that this aerator is more expensive than other options on this list, and if you do have a small yard, a manual option may be a better choice. However, we think if you already have the right equipment to attach it to, and have a larger yard with the right soil, this aerator will make quick work of getting your lawn into shape, with little effort.

Price at time of publish: 337

Aeration Method: Rolling tow-behind | Type: Plug | Spike Length: 3 inches | Width: 40 inches | Power Source: Manual | Dimensions: 37 x 51 x 28 inches | Weight Capacity: 150 pounds | Plug Size: 16 gauge

Best Budget

Yard Butler Lawn Coring Aerator

If you have a small yard, a handheld aerator is a great affordable option—this type of tool is generally much easier to store and can get into tight places where a tow-behind aerator cannot go. We like the Yard Butler Lawn Coring Aerator because it is both lightweight and durable. Like many handheld aerators, it does require physical effort and only covers a small area at a time, but when used, it can loosen the compacted soil and dethatch your lawn, so vital nutrients can get through.

Aside from the plug (core) handheld aerator, Yard Butler offers a spike handheld aerator which is better for sandy or loamy soil. The plug type has two tines that will penetrate up to 3.5 inches. The spike aerator has four 3-inch spikes. Both aerators are made of rust-resistant powder-coated steel, measuring 37 inches high and weighing around 4 pounds. Each has rubber padded handles and a footrest for ease in pushing the aerator into the soil.

Price at time of publish: 44

Aeration Method: Handheld | Type: Plug | Spike Length: 3.5 inches | Width: 8.75 inches | Power Source: Manual | Dimensions: 1.75 x 8.75 x 36.5 inches | Weight Capacity: Not applicable | Plug Size:.50 x 3.50 inches

Best Tow-Behind Spike

Agri-Fab 40-in Spike Lawn Aerator

• Requires lawn tractor for use
• Weights not included
• Requires large storage space

If you are looking for a tow-behind aerator and have sandy or loamy soil, the Agri-Fab Spike Aerator is a great choice. We love that it has 10 star-shaped tines that help penetrate compacted soil. Plus, it includes a weight tray that can hold up to 100 pounds if needed. Thanks to its universal hitch, your lawn tractor or UTV can do most of the work for you. And when not in use, the hitch folds up for easier storage.

The galvanized spikes can penetrate to a depth of 2.5 inches, and it has a lever for height adjustment. The flat-free tires roll smoothly and will never need to be filled. With a three-year limited warranty, this solid steel aerator will last through many years of lawn care.

Price at time of publish: 210

Aeration Method: Rolling tow-behind | Type: Spike | Spike Length: 2.5 inches | Width: 40 inches | Power Source: Manual | Dimensions: 31 x 48 x 18 inches | Weight Capacity: 100 pounds | Plug Size: Not listed

Best Shoes

Ohuhu Lawn Aerator Shoes with Hook Loop Straps

You can go for a walk and improve the quality of your lawn at the same time with the Ohuhu Lawn Aerator Shoes. Each shoe has 13 solid spikes that can penetrate up to 2 inches deep. The adjustable velcro hook and loop straps keep the shoe attached to your existing boot or sturdy garden shoe. At 12 inches long and 5 inches wide, they can fit most adults’ shoes. We also like that they are also easy to store in a shed or outdoor storage bin and require no assembly (aside from attaching to your shoes!).

The shoes have anti-slip pads on the bottom to help prevent them from slipping off your boots on wet grass. Plus, the shoes come with a steel shovel you can use to clean out dirt from between the spikes when needed. Overall, we think this aerator might not be the best option for a large lawn, but we think it’s great for smaller lawns as long as you don’t mind the extra effort.

Price at time of publish: 30

Aeration Method: Spikes attach to shoes | Type: Spikes | Spike Length: 2 inches | Width: 5 inches | Power Source: Not applicable | Dimensions: 12.6 x 5.59 x 4.41 inches | Weight Capacity: 300 pounds | Plug Size: Not applicable

Best Tow Behind Plug

Agri-Fab 48-Inch Tow Plug Aerator

• 48-inch width with 32 spikes
• Heavy-duty construction
• Best for large lawns with clay soil
• Requires lawn tractor for use
• Weights not included
• Requires large storage space

When you have heavy soil, you need a heavy-duty lawn aerator. The Agri-Fab plug aerator has 32 galvanized plugs that will penetrate to a depth of three inches. As with all tow-behind aerators, you will need a lawn tractor or UTVs to attach to the universal hitch.

Able to hold 140 pounds of weight (4 concrete blocks), the steel construction will withstand years of use. For best results, secure the blocks with bungee cords to prevent shifting during use. The cantilever transport handle makes raising and lowering the plugs an easy task. The ten-inch tires will not deflate and roll smoothly over even rutted terrain.

Price at time of publish: 379

Aeration Method: Rolling tow-behind | Type: Plug | Spike Length: 3 inches | Width: 48 inches | Power Source: Manual | Dimensions: 35 x 60 x 36 inches | Weight Capacity: 140 pounds | Plug Size: 3 inches

Best Liquid

Simple Lawn Solutions Liquid Aerating Soil Loosener

• Easy to use
• Can be used for clay or sandy soil
• Aids in mechanical or manual aeration

Large aerators aren’t practical if you have a small lawn or strip of grass that needs help. Fortunately, you can still loosen the soil by using a liquid aerator like Simple Lawn Solutions. The proprietary mixture of surfactants and other ingredients breaks apart soil colloids to improve water and nutrient absorption.

The product mixes with water and is used at a rate of one ounce per 1,000 square feet of grass. This soil loosener works well before seeding a lawn or manual aeration to make the task easier.

Price at time of publish: 45

Aeration Method: Liquid | Type: Not applicable | Spike Length: Not applicable | Width: Not applicable | Power Source: Not applicable | Dimensions: 5 x 2.25 x 8 inches | Weight Capacity: Not applicable | Plug Size: Not applicable

Best Push

Agri-Fab Push Spike Aerator

• Less expensive than larger models
• Small storage footprint
• Works in small spaces

If you want to benefits of a tow-behind aerator but don’t have a lawn tractor, we recommend the Agri-Fab Push Spike Aerator. This push aerator is outfitted with spikes and works best on small lawns with loamy soils. You can also pull this aerator when needed. It does require manual effort, but since you are pushing or pulling it, it’s easier to use than a manual tool that you have to push into the ground.

Just 16 inches wide, it can accommodate one concrete block to help push the five spiked discs into the ground to a depth of 2.5 inches. At 27 pounds and 38 inches high, it has a small footprint and is relatively easy to store.

Price at time of publish: 100

Aeration Method: Handheld | Type: Plug | Spike Length: 2.5 inches | Width: 16 inches | Power Source: Manual | Dimensions: 17 x 8 x 38 inches (assembled) | Weight Capacity: Not applicable | Plug Size: Not applicable

Best Electric

Sun Joe AJ801E 12-Amp 13-Inch Electric Dethatcher and Scarifier

• Adjustable depth control
• Included detachable bag
• Small footprint
• Single-button start

Aerating may allow your lawn better access to the water and air it needs to grow. But it also doesn’t address the issue of piled-up and compressed growth, which can prevent all that from happening. For this, many lawn care experts recommend scarifying or de-thatching—removing the built-up thatch. It is physically difficult to do this with a rake, both for the energy it takes and for the amount of distance needing to be covered. We found that the electrically powered Sun Joe AJ801E, which uses a rotating bladed cylinder to scrape up the detritus, accomplishes the task effectively and in far less time. We like the product for its 12-amp electric motor, and for its 12.6-inch path, which strikes us as just the right size for most lawns.

The 27-pound, ETL-approved de-thatcher features a single-handle, five-position depth control, from less than half an inch below the soil to just under half an inch above. This way you can be sure you set the machine to remove what you want removed and not an entire swath of sod. The scarifying blade is pre-attached, but you also can swap out a rake attachment (included, but you need an adjustable wrench). The handles require minimal assembly, with included hardware.

We recommend using the Sun Joe without the included collection bag, as it is fairly small and fills up fast, requiring interminable emptying. Also, this is not a machine for large lawns, as the manufacturer strongly advises using an extension cord no longer than 100 feet.

Price at time of publish: 189

Aeration Method: Scarifying/raking | Type: Scarifier/rake | Spike Length: Not listed | Width: 13 inches | Power Source: Corded electric | Dimensions: 24 x 20 x 12.5 inches | Weight Capacity: Not applicable | Plug Size: Not applicable

Our top pick is the Brinly-Hardy 40-inch Tow Behind Plug Aerator, which works well on clay and sandy soils, and has a heavy-duty steel construction that will last for years. If you’re specifically looking for a tow-behind spike aerator, the Agri-Fab Spike Aerator is a great choice. It has galvanized spikes that can penetrate to a depth of 2.5 inches and will last through many years of use.

What to Look For in a Lawn Aerator

Type of Soil

If you have hard, clay soil or water puddles in the grass after rain, then you should choose a plug aerator like our best overall, the Brinly-Hardy 40-inch Tow Behind Plug Aerator. By removing larger pieces or plugs of dirt, plug aerators can help nutrients penetrate more easily into the roots of the grass. If the soil is sandy or loamy, then the more narrow puncture of a spike aerator will give you the aeration needed. For example, the Agri-Fab Spike Aerator is a great tow-behind spike option.

Not sure what type of soil you have? Grab a handful of the soil and squeeze. If it forms a hard lump in your hand, you have clay. If the soil does not stick together and falls away easily, you have sandy or loamy soil.

Size of Your Lawn

Tow-behind aerators are rather large pieces of garden equipment and won’t perform well on small lots or narrow spaces. Tow-behind aerators are best for lawns larger than one-half acre and regular in shape. Consider the width of the aerator and your turn radius as you shop.

For smaller lawns and irregularly-shaped grass spaces, choose a push aerator, handheld model, or aerator shoes. We think the Yard Butler Lawn Coring Aerator is a great manual option for small yards with clay soil.

Additional Equipment and Storage Space

A tow-behind aerator is going to require something to pull it along. You must have a lawn tractor, ATV, or small utility vehicle. Tow-behind models and push models also need weights (usually several concrete blocks) to help them penetrate the soil. Consider the storage space required for all of these items.

The best type of aerator depends on your lawn, storage space, and budget. Spike aerators use long spikes to make holes in your grass to allow water and nutrients to reach the roots and soil. Spike aeration is a temporary solution that works best on small lawns with loose loam or sandy soils. You can get small spike aerators that are handheld or attach to your shoes, or larger push or tow models. For large areas with hard, compacted clay soils, plug aerators work best. When pushed down into the soil, a plug aerator removes plugs of dirt. This method provides larger holes that allow more nutrients to enter the soil and lasts for a longer period of time. Plug aerators can also be handheld or towed behind a lawn tractor.

Ideally, you should aerate your lawn one to six inches deep. If you have sandy soil, look for a spike aerator that has at least a 2.5-inch spike, like the Agri-Fab Push Spike Aerator. For more compact soils, your best choice is a plug aerator with hollow tines that can create three-inch plugs, like our top pick, the Brinly-Hardy Tow Behind Plug Aerator.

The best time to aerate the lawn is dependent on the type of lawn grass. Cool-season grasses (Kentucky bluegrass) should be aerated in the fall. The growing season is still active, but weeds are under control, and temperatures are cooler. Warm-season grasses (Bermuda, centipede) should be aerated in the spring. Most lawns only need to be aerated once per year. Of course, there are exceptions. If the lawn is part of new construction and the ground has been compacted by all of the equipment used during building, you may need aeration to ensure water reaches the roots of freshly laid sod. While it is acceptable to aerate when damp, don’t do it after heavy rains; you’ll end up with a muddy mess that makes it hard for the lawn to recover.

Why Trust The Spruce?

Mary Marlowe Leverette researched and wrote this roundup. She is a Master Gardener and has extensive personal and professional experience testing, reviewing, and writing about home and garden products. You can find more of her work on The Spruce. Jenica Currie, Commerce Editor for The Spruce updated this article with additional reporting.

The Spruce uses only high-quality sources, including peer-reviewed studies, to support the facts within our articles. Read our editorial process to learn more about how we fact-check and keep our content accurate, reliable, and trustworthy.

• Aerating Your Lawn. Virginia Tech. Virginia Cooperative Extension.
• When is the Best Time to Aerate Your Lawn? Toro Yard Care Blog. 2021. When is the Best Time to Aerate Your Lawn? [online] Available at:

Why, When and How to Dethatch Your Lawn

Not all lawns need dethatching, but when your lawn does need it, knowing how to dethatch your lawn is crucial to its future. Done properly, dethatching helps restore your lawn to health and keep it beautiful in years to come. By learning why, when and how to dethatch, you can keep your thick, lush grass on track. These lawn dethatching basics can help understand:

What is Thatch?

If you’ve ever seen a cross-section of soil and grass roots, you’ve seen the layer of organic debris known as thatch. A mix of dead and living plant material, thatch forms at the base of grass plants, where stems meet roots and soil. Some organic matter, such as small grass clippings or mulched leaves, break down quickly in healthy lawns, but other materials take much longer to decompose. When buildup outpaces breakdown, your lawn‘s thatch layer grows thicker.

A thin thatch layer, less than 1/2-inch thick, is beneficial to lawn health.1 It acts as an organic mulch to help conserve soil moisture and protect against big fluctuations in soil temperatures. A thin thatch layer allows water, nutrients and air to penetrate into soil and reach waiting plant roots. But when thatch grows thick, grass suffers.

Thatch layers of 1 inch or more become barriers instead of benefits. Thick thatch blocks water and fertilizer, and grass roots get trapped in thatch, where they’re vulnerable to heat, drought and stress. Water from irrigation can accumulate in the thatch layer, too, so grass roots suffocate from lack of air. Thick thatch also provides a breeding ground for lawn disease and insect pests.

Some lawn grasses are more prone to thatch buildup than other. Vigorous, spreading grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass, Bermudagrass and creeping fescues, may need regular dethatching. Clump-forming grasses, such as tall fescue or perennial ryegrass, seldom have thatch problems. Lawns with overly low soil pH or compacted soil are also prone to thatch. Overfertilization and heavy pesticide use contribute, too.

When to Dethatch Your Lawn

Always check your lawn’s thatch layer before dethatching. Take a garden trowel or spade and dig up a small wedge of your lawn grass and soil. You’ll be able to see and measure its thatch layer. If your thatch is 1–2 inches or more, you’ve probably already seen signs of poor grass color and weak, thin growth. Once you’ve confirmed your thatch exceeds the healthy mark, the time for dethatching has come.

Like most major lawn projects, such as planting new lawns or overseeding existing lawns, dethatching should coincide with peak growth times for your grass type. Active grass growth helps speed your lawn’s recovery.

Dethatch cool-season grasses, such as Kentucky bluegrass, in late summer or early fall. Dethatch warm-season grasses, such as Bermudagrass or Zoysia grass, after spring green-up, as they enter early summer’s peak growth. Never dethatch when your lawn is dormant or stressed; you can damage it beyond recovery.

Lawn aeration and dethatching are two different processes, but they can work together to help your lawn. Aeration removes cores of soil, including their thatch layer, and creates paths for water and nutrient to penetrate thatch and compacted soil. This helps prepare thatch for removal and speeds the breakdown of existing thatch. Dethatching helps slice through thatch into soil and remove the barrier of thick, accumulated organic matter.

How to Dethatch Your Lawn

If your thatch is over 2 inches thick, you may want to consider hiring a professional for the job. Excessive thatch can take more than one removal session, and removing too much at once can damage grass roots. Your local county extension agent can help you decide which route to take. If DIY is more your style, you can dethatch your lawn in three ways:

• Manual dethatching rakes are heavy, short-tined rakes with curved blades designed to dig into your lawn and pull up thatch as you rake. Dethatching rakes are good for light thatch and general thatch maintenance on small lawn areas.
• Power rakes are mower-like devices with rotating, rake-like tines that dig into thatch at the soil level and pull it up. Power rakes work well for lawns with thinner thatch layers and grass that can withstand intense raking.
• Vertical mowers, also called verticutters, have vertical blades that slice down through the thatch layer and into soil, pulling thatch—and often grass roots—to the surface as they go. Verticutters are best for thick thatch layers on lawns in need of renovation. Blades adjust to control how much thatch you remove at once.

Most lawn and garden stores carry manual dethatching rakes. Equipment rental stores often keep power rakes and vertical mowers on hand, especial during dethatching season. Whatever option you choose, finish the job by raking up all the thatch debris and watering your dethatched lawn thoroughly.

What to Do After Dethatching

With dethatching done, it’s an ideal time to overseed your lawn and get it back on track for thick, lush, green beauty. By choosing premium grass seed such as water-conserving Pennington Smart Seed, you improve your lawn’s sustainability as you overcome thatch. For a quick, easy fix to thin grass, turn to Pennington Lawn Booster; this all-in-one product combines Smart Seed, professional-grade fertilizer and soil enhancers, all in a single, easy-to-use package.

To prevent future thatch problems, test your lawn soil every 3–4 years and follow soil test recommendations to keep soil pH and nutrients at optimal levels for thick, healthy grass growth. Your lawn may need lime to restore soil pH balance, which also promotes beneficial activity of thatch-reducing microorganisms.

Aerate heavy or compacted lawns annually and amend with gypsum to help loosen soil and encourage root growth. Fertilize your lawn, according to soil test recommendations, with the best lawn fertilizers to ensure it gets nitrogen it needs without over-fertilizing, and follow best practices for mowing and wise watering.

By learning why, when and how to dethatch your lawn properly and taking steps to prevent thatch, you can keep your lawn on track for healthy, thick, lush growth. Pennington is committed to providing you with the finest in grass seed and lawn care products so you can enjoy a beautiful, healthy lawn you’re proud to own.

Pennington with design and Smart Seed are trademarks of Pennington Seed, Inc. Sources:

P. Landschoot, Managing Thatch in Lawns, Pennsylvania State University Center for Turfgrass Science.