Push mower vibrates bad. Is Your Lawn Mower Rattling or Sound Weird? Check The Fixes Here
Is Your Lawn Mower Rattling or Sound Weird? Check The Fixes Here
Rattling is one of the most common sounds a lawnmower makes. If the lawnmower is rattling, it may have a part that could detach at any moment. Thus, you likely want to know why your lawnmower is making noise and how to fix it.
The most common causes of Lawn Mower Rattling are loose bolts and nuts, damaged or worn-out blades, a broken muffler, old engine oil, a clogged air filter, and debris lodged in the mower deck.
What Causes Lawnmower Rattling?
| Causes of Lawnmower Rattling | Solutions |
| Loosen Bolts and Nuts Due to vibration | Tighten the bolts with a socket or wrench. Use lock washers or thread-locking compounds. Replace the damaged or worn-out bolts and nuts. |
| Damaged Blade Bent blade Unbalanced blade Loose blade assembly | Replace the bent blade. Use a balancer to fix the unbalanced blade. Tighten the bolt that holds the blade. |
| Damaged Muffler Small holes or cracks on the muffler Broken muffler | Use patching materials or muffler repairing tape. Replace the muffler. |
| Contaminated or Damaged Engine Oil | Replace with the fresh and suitable oil. |
| Clogged Air Filter | Clean the filter with a brush, scraping tool, or compressed air. Replace the worn-out air filter. |
| Debris in Mower Deck | Avoid rough terrain. Adjust mower deck height. Clean the deck after using each time. |
Lawn Mower Rattling: 6 Things to Check
Some major causes of lawnmower rattling and their respective solutions are given below.
Loosen Bolts and Nuts
Loosen bolts and nuts are the most likely reason why the lawnmower is rattling.
Over time, the vibrations produced by the mower could loosen the bolts, nuts, and screws that hold the mower together. This causes the mower’s parts to bang against each other.
Periodically, especially after extended use, inspect various components including the blade deck and engine for any visible sign of looseness for movement. If you don’t know which bolts or screws are loose, go over all of them and tighten the loose ones.
Use a wrench or socket to tighten those bolts and nuts. Ensure the correct torque, specified by the user manual to prevent under-tightening or over-tightening.
Damaged or worn bolts, nuts, and screws must be replaced. You may also use lock washers or thread-locking compounds to keep bolts and nuts from coming loose.
Damaged Blade
A lawnmower blade may be bent, become unbalanced, or the blade assembly may become loose, causing the lawnmower to rattle.
Bent Blade
Lawnmower blade could be bent or chipped upon contact with hard objects. A bent blade in contact with the skid plate causes rattling.
The blade is installed in the gap between the cutting disc and skid plate. When the disc rotates, an unsecured the skid plate due to a damaged skid plate cover applies vertical pressure on the blade. This causes the blade to be bent.
The worn-out or bent blades must be replaced with new ones. The skid plate cover should also be checked for replacement.
Unbalanced Blade
Lawnmower may rattle because of one side of the blade may be lighter than the other.
Use a lawnmower blade balancer to fix the unbalanced blade.
Loose Blade Assembly
Loose Blade Assembly causes the blade to vibrate and move in an uneven manner, thus making contact with other parts of the lawnmower.
The blade adapter that connects the blade to the engine’s output shaft may also become loose or damaged, causing vibration and rattling.
To fix a loose blade assembly, take the following steps.
Step-1: Disconnect the spark plug
Prevent the accidental start-up of the lawnmower by disconnecting it from the power source.
Step-2: Tighten the bolt
Tighten the bolt that holds the blade. When tightening, you can use a piece of wood to prevent the blade from turning.
Damaged Muffler
A muffler is used to reduce the sound of the engine exhaust by a lot. A broken muffler might have holes or cracks that can be seen with the naked eye, or it might not fit right on the engine outlet.
If the muffler is broken, it may not work well with the engine. The gap lets engine noise and vibrations escape, making a rattling sound.
Again, a broken muffler can mess up the flow of air and the pressure inside the engine. This makes the engine shake more and make a rattling sound.
Depending upon the extent of the damage, you may decide whether to replace or repair the muffler. over, it’s recommended to replace the damaged muffler with a new one since they are not too expensive.
It can be done in a few easy steps-
Step-1: Cool down the engine
Make sure the engine is not hot. It is wise to wait for some hours before replacing the muffler. It’s recommended to use a pair of gloves for protection.
Step-2: Locate the muffler
Mostly, mufflers are located on the side or rear of the engine. Typically, they are attached to the end of an exhaust pipe. Unscrew the exhaust pipe to remove the muffler entirely. You may need a pipe wrench to unstick the rusted muffler.
Step-3: Repair or replace the muffler
If the muffler has minor cracks or tiny holes, it can be repaired using patching materials or muffler repairing tape like FiberFix.
On the other hand, severely damaged or rusted mufflers must be replaced with a new one. Install the muffler by putting the threaded end into the engine’s exhaust outlet and spinning it clockwise to tighten.
Contaminated or Damaged Engine Oil
Engine oil works as a lubricant between moving parts of the lawnmower engine and prevents the parts to rub against each other.
Over time, oil becomes degraded or contaminated with debris, dirt, or water and can no longer perform the intended work.
The engine requires to change the oil every 30 to 40 hours of use or twice a year. Use the following troubleshooting steps to change the oil-
Step-1: Start the lawnmower
It is important to warm the oil for warm oil flows easily.
Step-2: Drain the old oil
Remove the drain plug which is located near the bottom of the engine and drain out the old oil completely in a container.
Step-3: Add fresh oil
Fill the oil tube at the optimum level with the recommended type of oil.
Clogged Air Filter
The air filter works as a barrier to prevent debris, dirt, and dust from entering the engine and allows only clean air to enter.
Over time, the filter fills with those dust or debris and becomes clogged. This blocks the airflow to the engine and causes rattling.
You can clean or replace the clogged air filter by following the easy steps given below.
Step-1: Turn off the mower
Remove the spark plug wire to ensure safety.
Step-2: Locate the air filter
Mostly it is rectangular in shape and is located near the carburetor.
Step-3: Clean or replace the filter
Remove the air filter cover and tap on a hard surface to displace all the debris and clouds of dust. If the filter still looks dirty, use compressed air to blow it clean or brush the filter. The damaged filter must be replaced.
Step-4: Reinstall the air filter
Cover the filter and put it back in place.
Debris in the Mower Deck
Grass, clippings, stones, dirt, twigs, and other debris may build up underneath the mower deck gradually. Mowing on uneven or rough terrain causes more debris to trap in the deck. This debris stuck between the blade and the deck or vibrates against the deck, causing the lawnmower to rattle.
You should adjust the mower deck height and avoid mowing on rough terrain. You can follow the simple steps given below to clean the mower deck.
Step-1: Clean the mower deck
Unplug the wire and clean the deck with a stick, brush, scraping tool, or compressed air to blow out the debris. Use a power washer only if the user manual allows the use of water.
Step-2: Use WD-40 to the deck
After you have cleaned up the debris properly, apply some WD-40 which keeps the debris building up again.
Maintaining a beautiful lawn can be a daunting task, especially if you lack the appropriate know-how and tools to handle the challenges that may crop up. Fortunately, LawnAsk is here to offer you an all-encompassing resource that covers everything you need to know about lawn care.
Recent Posts
My Lawn Mower Chute Clogs – Solved!
Just so FRUSTRATING!! Cutting tall, heavy grass, especially if it’s wet, will keep you busy clearing the chute all day.
So what’s going on? Why does my mower chute clog? The most common reason a mower chute clogs are because the grass is too heavy, but there are lots of other reasons:
Lawnmower grass catcher troubleshooting is straightforward; most are common problems and easy to solve. In this guide, we’ll look at all the most common causes.
Grass height, weather conditions, and a worn blade will be the most obvious reasons for the tractor or walk-behind mower clogging. Very often, a dull, damaged, or worn blade is the root cause of a clogging chute.
If you need video help, check out the “Mower blade sharpening video” it walks you through the whole process step by step, from examining the blade, sharpening both on and off the mower, blade removal, blade balancing, refitting, including using a torque wrench to tighten blade bolt to spec.
Conditions Chute Clogging
As a guide, you should cut no more than 1/3 off a blade of grass at once. For best results, a mower shouldn’t be cutting more than an inch of grass, and the best lawn height is about 3″. Cutting regularly keeps the workload on the machine to a minimum, and it’s easier on your lawn.
Weather makes a big difference. Obviously, if the grass is damp, the mower is going to struggle to perform. But I understand, sometimes it’s necessary to cut wet grass when you need to get the job done.
A clogged chute can, of course, is a symptom of an underlying problem. Clearing the chute may not resolve the issue. Grass build-up or damage to the underside of the deck can cause the grass to catch and clog. The underside of the deck should be smooth so that the grass moves freely around the deck, up the chute, and into the bag.
Chute – Clearing the chute may not solve the problem. Check the chute for damage or old dry grass build-up.
Clean – Old grass on the deck can cause problems. Regular cleaning will prevent build-up and prolong the life of your mower.
Deck Wash Port – Clean the underside of the deck at the end of the season, as the acid in the grass eats away at the metal over the winter. Most mowers will have a garden hose connection on the deck, simply connect your hose and run your blades to clean the underside of the deck. This does a reasonable job of cleaning.
The wash-out port isn’t fitted to all mowers. It does a pretty good job of cleaning the underside of the deck.
Hose – Move your mower to a suitable location, as it leaves a bit of a mess. Just attach and turn on a garden hose. Start your mower to engage the blades. Run until the water runs clear – simple!
Deck Coating – After cleaning the deck and allowing it dry thoroughly, spray on a coat of WD40; it’ll help protect the deck over the winter and also help keep the deck grass-free in the spring. Better than that is applying a non-stick film, it works pretty well, and it’s easy to apply.
The best in the business – DuPont Teflon non-stick dry film, and you check out the price on Amazon.
Clean – Lift the front of your tractor, and secure it well before climbing under. A wire brush and paint scraper do the job.
To Prevent Clogging
To help prevent clogging, three options are common:
Option 1 – Quick fix is to spray the deck with WD40. It does help, but it won’t last.
Option 2 – Spray deck with DuPont Teflon coating.
Option 3 – Spray the deck with bed liner. Works on tractors, riders, and walk-behind mowers. Check out the video here.
Check Your Grass bag
A clogged grass bag is a common problem. Tractors and walk-behind mowers often get cleaned at the end of the season (well, some do), but bags rarely do. Symptoms of a clogged bag are not collecting or only a half-filled grass bag.
Examine your bag/box; when held to the light, you should be able to see through it. A stiff brush will remove the old grass, or use a power washer.
Consider buying a new grass bag if damaged. They are available to purchase, usually with or without the frame. Check if the bag/box sits correctly against the mower body. If it’s loose, the air and grass flow to the bag will leak.
Bag – Thatched grass on the inside of the bag is a common issue. It prevents airflow through the bag, which in turn prevents grass from entering the bag.
Clean – As a rough guide, you should be able to see through the bag. A stiff brush or, better, a pressure washer does a great job.
Check For Blade Damage
Two types of blades are common, the lift blade and the mulching blade. They are fitted to tractors, ride-on, and walk-behind mowers. A defective blade can cause vibration, uneven cutting, and poor grass collection.
Mower Knocking and shaking-found a simple fix.
No need to tell you a bent blade is dangerous and should never be repaired. A new blade, bolt, and washer is the way to go.
Examine – Check your blades for damage, misalignment, or bent or broken tips. Your blade is the business end of the mower and needs to be in top condition. Defective blades can cause vibration, uneven cutting, and poor grass collection. A mowing blade may look OK, but they do wear.
Mowing blades are engineered to cut and move grass; as they wear, they become much less efficient. A worn blade will cause clogging.
Timed Blades – Some deck setups will have an overlapping cut, although more common on lawn tractors than walk-behind mowers.
Toro Timemaster walks behind the mower and has a timed blade set up. To achieve this, the blades must be fixed at a set angle in relation to each other. This is done by using a toothed timed belt.
If one of the blades hits an object, the blades go out of time, or the belt can break. When the blades are out of time, bagging quality suffers, and a clogging chute is a symptom. In addition, badly timed blades usually damage each other. I wrote this detailed guide, including pictures, to help you replace your “Timed deck belt”.
Dull or Worn Blade
A dull or worn blade will cause clogging; as the carefully engineered blade wears, the trailing edge is less efficient at moving the clippings. The leading edge will also be worn from grit and debris, and sharpening sessions will likely have changed its shape.
The average mower should get a new blade every 3rd or 4th season. If the blade is in good overall condition, go ahead and sharpen it.
Lift Blade
The Lift blade is also known as the 2 in 1, so-called because it bags and discharges. Lift blades vacuum the grass upright, before cutting and moving the clippings to the bag. Lift blades are specially designed for collecting grass and come in the low, medium, and high lift.
2 in 1 Lift Blade
Lift means sucking power; a higher lift blade will require a more powerful engine. The lift is created by curving upwards of the trailing edge of the blade.
If you like bagging – You need a lift blade.
Mulching Blade
A true Mulching blade is designed to cut grass, circulate it around the deck, cut it several more times, and drop it back onto the lawn as fine clippings.
You’ll know a mulching blade when you see it; the leading edge isn’t straight; it curves up and down. This results in several cuts to the same grass blade but at different heights – fine clippings.
DIAGNOSING LAWNMOWER WITH BAD VIBRATION
If you’re not interested in mulching, then remove the mulching blade and fit a lift blade. It will always bag better than any hybrid mulching blade.
3 in-1 Blade
A true Mulching blade is not designed to collect. That got engineers thinking – Meet the hybrid mulching blade or 3 in 1. It attempts to do it all, mulch, bag, discharge. However, we all know it can’t be excellent at everything, and it isn’t.
Mulching has become quite popular, and manufacturers have responded by making a blade that tries to do it all but doesn’t quite succeed.
Check out the blade replacing video here, and if you need new blades, check out the Amazon link below.
Engine Performance Problems
It’s also worth considering if the throttle is set correctly; it should be set to fast/run when cutting. Is the engine running as it should? If the engine power is reduced, the mower may still cut well but will be less efficient at collecting.
A small-engine tractor or walk-behind mower should have a tune-up at the beginning of every season, regardless of how well it might be running.
I wrote these guides to help you tune up your own mower; it includes an oil grade chart and quantity for your engine; check out:
Bad Gas
Stale gas is the number one most common cause of poor engine performance. It’s usually caused by letting gas sit in the mower over the winter. The bad gas can damage the carburetor causing 100 in repairs, and it’s not covered by your warranty.
This problem can be avoided by using a gas stabilizer; you won’t have to use it all season, just at the tail end. It’s simple to use, just dump the bottle of gas stabilizer into your gas tank and run the engine to mix it throughout the fuel system, that’s it. You can find a link to the fuel stabilizer I use here and a video on how to use it here.
The fix for bad gas – is to remove and clean the carburetor; if it’s badly corroded, you’ll need to replace it.
I wrote these easy-to-follow guides, including pictures on carburetor cleaning, which will help you find your problem and fix it fast.
Tune-up – Mowers like a tune-up at least once per season.
What Is Power Take Off (PTO)?
The PTO clutch assembly will not be fitted to all mowers, and so this may not be applicable. It’s fitted mostly to tractors, ride-on, and larger walk-behind mowers.
A PTO clutch is a unit fitted to the end of the crankshaft. The deck belt wraps around the PTO pulley; its function is to apply the power of the engine to the blades when a switch or lever is operated.
PTO Wear
The PTO clutch, when worn, will slip, reducing power to the blades. This will be especially noticeable in taller grass. The PTO, if fitted, will be manual or electromagnetic.
If manual, it will likely have a lever and cable to operate – check that the cable is pulling the PTO. Both types can’t be repaired; they must be replaced.
PTO – Check the PTO system. The manual version is engaged by a cable. It lives on the crankshaft, right under the engine. Check that the cable is pulling the PTO lever all the way.
Fitting – Replacing the PTO isn’t difficult; air tools make it look really easy.
Tractor Belt Wear Problems
Belt wear is also a common reason for a chute to clog; check the deck-cutting belt for damage and general wear tear. A new belt will transfer more of the engine power to the cutting blades and will improve the cutting and bag-filling performance.
Belt types and lengths will be specific. Some brands will only work well using OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) belts.
Worn – A cutting deck belt that’s slipping will be less efficient at collecting. Check the belt for proper tension, cracking, glazing, or contamination.
Damaged – Damaged belts will cause vibration and poor general performance. A typical deck belt might last 3 – 4 years.
You may find these links useful:
Related Questions
Why is my lawnmower spitting out grass? Common reasons for grass trailing is grass-bag or box not sitting on the mower deck correctly. Check for gaps around the bag/deck interface and holes in the bag.
Grass not going into the lawnmower bag? When your mower isn’t filling the grass bag, first try cleaning the bag, if that doesn’t help, replace the cutting blade.
Hey, I’m John, and I’m a Red Seal Qualified Service Technician with over twenty-five years experience.
I’ve worked on all types of mechanical equipment, from cars to grass machinery, and this site is where I share fluff-free hacks, tips, and insider know-how.
And the best part. it’s free!
Repair: Lawn mower vs. Tree Stump
I was cutting the grass in our back yard with my Craftsman Briggs and Stratton mower when I ran into a little problem. For the purposes of this story, “little problem” means “tree stump.” The lawnmower screeched to an abrupt halt as I cursed my own stupidity for hitting an obstacle that I have been successfully avoiding for years. I was able to re-start it after several attempts but it backfired as it sputtered back to life. As it was running, it vibrated violently and there were assorted noises coming from the engine that were not there a few minutes before.
Did I just destroy my lawn mower?
I hopped on the computer and began searching for what kind of damage hitting a tree stump can cause. All the information I found pointed to a bent shaft and that sort of damage was a death sentence for the mower.
Sure, you could try to whack it straight again. There are videos on YouTube of people straightening lawnmower shafts with sledgehammers. But the more authoritative sites said that most repair shops won’t even attempt this kind of repair because of liability issues. Once bent, the shaft is weaker, and it might have some microscopic cracks that will worsen over time, resulting in a break that could send the blade flying.
Proponents of the sledgehammer repair all seem to dismiss the danger element. Their common refrain, “In all my years of fixing lawnmowers like this I’ve never heard of a blade coming off.”
But the possibility of a lawnmower blade embedding itself in my shin bone after the shaft breaking was enough to persuade me to err on the side of caution.
Buy a new lawn mower. Problem fixed!
I ended up on the Lowe’s website, saw that they had a lawnmower on sale for 100 off. There were only a couple left in my local store, so from the website, I reserved one for pickup. All I would have to do is walk into the store, show my receipt and walk out with a shiny new machine. But that would wait until the next day, Sunday.
In the wee hours of Sunday morning, long before Lowe’s would open their doors, I did some more research and found out that it might not be as bad as I thought.
So, why is my lawnmower running rough and making funny noises after I hit a stump or rock?
There are actually three possibilities. The worst case scenario is that the impact had bent the shaft. I did a quick visual inspection but did not notice any obvious damage to the shaft. Mind you, I didn’t use a square or measure deviation or anything like that. It was just a quick look.
likely, I bent the blade or sheared the flywheel. The cost to fix both of these: about 30.
Bent Blade
The contact with the stump had indeed bent the blade and that could be enough to throw off the balance and cause the motor to run rough.
A new lawnmower blade runs about 20 (2014) and is easy to find in any store that sells lawnmowers.
I needed to change the blade anyway, although I was trying to finish the season with the one I had. After I changed the blade, the mower ran better. There was less vibration, but it the engine was still running rough and making funny noises.
Sheared flywheel key.
This was the repair that scared me because of the amount of dis-assembly. I found two outstanding videos on YouTube that walk through the process making it less intimidating.
Non-technical explanation of just what the heck happened
There is a notch in the shaft and a notch in the flywheel. The flywheel key fits in those notches locking the two parts together. The flywheel key is made of soft metal so that if something causes the shaft to suddenly stop spinning (like, for example, hitting a tree stump), the key will shear to prevent more serious damage to the engine (like, for example, a bent shaft).
How to change a flywheel key
This video by Repair Clinic is a step-by-step tutorial.
Or, if you prefer to see the repair done in real time, then I recommend this video by SmallEngineShop:
O, elusive key, where art thou
I learned that you can’t just walk into Home Depot or Lowes and buy flywheel keys off the shelf like you can with blades. But surely I could get one from the parts department at Sears, since this was a Craftsman lawn mower.
The parts department would have to order the part and it wouldn’t be in for about two weeks.
The frustrating part of this is that I know that there was likely a tray full of flywheel keys somewhere on the other side of the wall where they do the repairs. But repair was closed anyway so I wouldn’t even be able to negotiate the purchase of a part out of the repair department’s inventory. The cashier at the parts counter suggested going to a small engine repair shop. She handed me a flyer for a shop they recommend– hmmm… maybe Sears no longer does lawnmower repairs in-house after all– but it was Sunday and that shop, and other repair shops like it, were closed. The repair would have to wait.
I walked into the repair shop on Monday, said that I needed a Briggs and Stratton flywheel key, and as soon as I rattled off the first couple of digits of the part number, the guy behind the counter passed one to me. I was in and out in about a minute and a half.
Disassembly
The videos cover this procedure in detail
I thought taking the lawnmower apart to get to the flywheel assembly was going to be difficult, but it was actually relatively easy.
The only difficulty I had was removing the nut that secures the flywheel. The whole assembly spins, so without an impact wrench, you have to find a way to hold the flywheel stationary while undoing the nut.
I don’t have an impact wrench so I propped a piece of wood propped between the discharge chute and the blade to stop the blade from spinning. I was able to remove the nut with a standard socket wrench.
I did have to make a couple of tool purchases. The nut is 15/16, and the largest socket I had was 3/4. That nut has to be tightened to 55 foot pounds so I had to buy a torque wrench as well. Up to now, I’ve never needed a torque wrench, so I just bought the least expensive one I could find.
The other complication in this repair is the difficulty of removing the flywheel from the shaft. There is a tool for pulling the flywheel called, wait for it, a flywheel puller. But instead, I used a prybar to gently nudge the flywheel loose.
Sure enough, the flywheel key was in two pieces.
I replaced the flywheel, inserted the new key, reassembled the lawnmower and it fired up as easily as it did when it was new. Success!
Total cost
I figure that because I had to buy some tools, I probably didn’t save much over taking the lawnmower to a repair shop. But now, I have those tools and the experience to easily make this repair next time.
Lawnmower blade: 25
Flywheel Key(s): 6(I bought 2 so I have an extra one for the next repair)
Gas (used in my vehicle when chasing after the flywheel key): about 10
Torque wrench: 25
New Lawnmower 275.00
Savings: 200
DIY Savings: The parts would have cost the same. I never got an estimate for the labor cost to replace the flywheel key. Could I have got it done for 35? I honestly don’t know. But with the extra flywheel key on hand, and the new tools in my toolbox, the next time I need to replace the flywheel key, it won’t cost me anything.
The video
13 Комментарии и мнения владельцев
Easily one of the greatest DIY articles in the history of DIY articles. It was actually as if you wrote this specifically for me…and 3 years ago…now THAT’s prescience! Thank you and God bless.
notebook not charging? need a new one), if it still causes problems, then the port on the notebook needs to be replaced.
I just had a sudden stoppage on a brand new Toro. It runs but it bogs down or dies when I hit wet grass. It is taken a few pulls now to start and just sounds like something is loose. I’m going to give this a shot. I’ve only had the mower a few weeks. Any other pointers or advice?
I did a Google search for lawn mower noise and there are a few possible causes. Did you actually hit a stump or rock? Considering you are dealing with a new lawn mower, I wold be more inclined to take it to an authorized repair shop. You might get lucky and have part of the repair covered under warranty. It’s a long shot, but there could be some manufacturing defect thing going on here, too.
Thanks so much for this…it was exactly what I needed to know to fix my problem. My mower blade came to a screeching halt on a big tree root and it was shaking like crazy after that…overheating too. Total cost of my repairs was 30, but that included a brand new blade, 2 replacement housing screws for the ones that literally got shaken off the mower, a pack of 3 flywheel keys, and a new 15/16″ socket. Repairs were relatively easy with the help of your article and the videos. Thanks again.
I changed the flywheel key, the air filter, and the spark plug, also cleaned the carburetor, and it acts like it wants to start, but it won’t. Also tested the ignition coil (no spark).
I wish I could help more, but this blog post is literally everything I know about small engine repair.
I had the exact same stump experience this week, but the problem is, I have an electric mower. After I got it started again, the motor tone was lower, gruffer, and the mower vibrates more. The tone dropped from tenor to bass. I have still been able to mow, but it does seem like the batteries are draining faster. I thought about taking the blade off and putting it back on, which is about the only thing I might be able to do on my own. Does an electric motor have a flywheel as a gas mower does, or could it be some other motor issue? I’m worried that if I keep using it I’ll ruin it, but taking it to an electric motor repair shop might be costly, and it will put me out of commission at the wrong time of year. The blade on this OLD mower is a very unique one, and I’m not sure I could find another. I have tried in the past on the parts websites without much luck. Should I stop using the mower, or take my chances? I hate to spend the money right now on a new machine. I like this one because it’s very small and lightweight. Thanks for any advice!
Unfortunately, the full extent of my knowledge small engine repair is contained in this blog post, so I am going to make a couple of assumptions. I am going to assume that regardless of the power source, lawn mowers are going to work pretty much the same way. The question is whether the flywheel on your lawnmower has a key that is designed to shear in the same way as the the one on the Briggs and Stratton engine. So I looked up an owner’s manual for a popular battery powered lawn mower to see the parts list. It only listed “motor.” Not much help there. What has likely happened in your case is that the shaft got bent. If that’s the case, you may not be able to repair it. It might be possible to straighten it, but it could be weakened or damaged and that damage may not be visible to you. It is also possible that the blade itself got bent. That would throw off the balance and cause the mower to run rougher. Also, if your lawn mower doesn’t have a sacrificial flywheel key, there could be other damage that has been done to the motor. You should take a look in your owner’s manual. There’ll be a diagram and a parts list. Otherwise, I would contact the manufacturer directly to see if it even something that can be repaired and ask for authorized repair shops in your area. Not sure how old “OLD” is, but it sounds like you have already done some of this homework. I would definitely not use the lawnmower if it isn’t running or sounding right. Could be dangerous. My gut instinct is that you will probably be shopping for a new mower. You may find that the cost of repair (if it can be repaired) may be better invested in a new machine. Wish I could be more help. Please let me know what happens. Good luck.
It is also important to check the blades for these mowers. Sharpen as needed and keep them both tightly fastened. You want to be sure that all lawn mower maintenance that can be done is done so take the time to read your owner’s manual, too. Keep the right products and equipment available to help provide your machine with the best results. If you do not know how to do a repair, be sure that you have a professional do it for you!
Well glad i found your site/post thumb-n-hammer. Didn’t initially think the key would have been so soft…sure as the sun rises it was crushed. Disassembled, reassembled, but with no such luck. Have our daughter cheapie craftsman and will have to either dive much deeper or simply admit defeat and replace