250 Stihl Does Not Go Oil

The problem is as follows. Saw Stihl MS 250 years six in operation. Oil is not supplied to lubricate the chain (it does not depend on air temperature), to be precise, it does not go towards the tire, but at the same time during operation it intensively flows into the hole under the muffler. He cleaned everything, wiped it, but everything remained the same. Tell me, what else can I do?

It happens sometimes. There, under the muffler, initially the plastic plug should stand. For some reason, it is sometimes squeezed out. You can do it, here’s what you need: Socket wrench "at 8". remove the muffler. Long tap M6. lengths of about 100 mm, or standard with an extension cord. Screw M6, which is not a good-KO and a nut, respectively. Hacksaw for metal. Tisochki. Here is the technology: 1. Remove the silencer. 2. We remove streams of oil. 3. Lower a small piece of cloth with a slight interference into the hole so that it can be removed later. Do not score tightly! 4. Cut with a M6 tap 5. 6 threads in the hole, clean from chips and remove the cloth from the hole with a hook. 5. from the M6 ​​screw, cut a piece of thread length 5. 6 (or 5-6 millimeters), on this piece we cut a slot for a screwdriver. the cork is ready. (The aforementioned nut in order to tighten the screw through it and not damage the thread). 6. screw the plug into the hole. Here you need to carefully. it is impossible to screw deeply, otherwise it will block the outlet. You can insert a wire of millimeter 2 diameter into it from the side of the tire mounting and screw the cork up to
touching the wire. 7. put the muffler and check the oil supply.

I bought a Stihl MC 250 chainsaw. A week later I found smudges of black oil in the crankcase attachment, runs out from under the screw, it is on the right, closer to the handle. There are suspicions that the crankcase may not be sealed. What to do?

Do not worry. outwardly leaks are not manifested. Neither streaks, nor similar manifestations. Only by indirect indications. first, a slight increase in power and an increase in maximum revolutions. Then, as leaks increase, problems with idle start, then. startup problems.

The saw starts and stalls. How to fix?

You need to first remove the fuel filter from the hose in the tank and try to work a little without it. It will not give anything. check impulse hose. it can be seen poorly, but you can see. Using a small flashlight, look into the gap between the top of the fuel tank and the bottom of the carburetor box. the hose should not hang loose. it should be dressed on a nipple cast at the same time with the carburetor body
boxes. It happens sometimes. when the engine pops it breaks. If the hose is in place. then harder. Rock the right end of the crankshaft. if there is at least a slight backlash, you need to do a diagnosis. The pan mounting screws may be loosened, the oil seal (more often. Right) may be damaged. I can also advise you to rearrange the carburetor with a working saw and try to see if this is the case.

I have a Stihl MS 250 chainsaw, I bought 1.5 years ago, for harvesting firewood. The resource is clear, no more than 4 hours a day, and should you rest during the work? if so, how much? The saw works fall-winter, about 40 m / h per year.

Rest there is simple. You cannot refuel a hot saw, which means that after running out of the fuel tank, you need to take a break to cool down the chainsaw. The break time is not indicated anywhere.

The tool works fine, but it does not start when restarted (i.e. warm). Need to change the candle or wait for it to cool?

There are two options. or nothing to burn or nothing to set on fire. That is, if the filter is clean, then for some reason the suction is not removed in the carburetor during a warm start (and after a cold start it is removed) and the saw does not have enough air or the spark disappears when the candles are heated. Perhaps re-enrichment of the mixture. Try screw L not tighten much. There are 3 screws on the carburetor. T. idle speed, L. low speed, H. high speed. On the right side of the air filter cover there are holes marked opposite these screws. (screw H is better not to twist).

Stihl MC 250 chainsaw, 2 years working, but recently began to notice. if it stands for a long time (more than 3 months), then it does not hold at idle or at other times, or at other times at high idle, the chain is already spinning. I’ll work out a tank of gas and everything returns to normal. Where is the problem?

If you do not produce gas from a carburetor, then perhaps this is the reason. Gasoline evaporates the oil remains, the membranes in the carburetor stick. In addition, the fuel mixture deteriorates over time, loses its properties. Even in a canister, the mixture is not recommended to be stored for longer than 2-3 weeks.

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I bought this tool. Arrived at the cottage seasoned started, tried to cut it. everything is fine. Well, I move the universal lever to the stop position, but it does not stall! In general, he threw off the lid, closed the contact. Can you enlighten me on a device to stop the engine? I saw only one contact on the spring, and the second is stuck in the universal lever itself and there is nothing else! There seems to be some kind of record, but what kind of record?

At the end of the wire is a normal type "mother". It is inserted into the corresponding socket on the lever and the contact spring must touch it when the lever is in position "off". There are no intermediate parts. The spring should be on top. It has not so much a contact function as a fixing shaft in different positions.

I’m using a Stihl MS 250 chainsaw. I haven’t started the saw yet, I have no experience, so a few questions. 1. I was surprised by the operation of the brake, or rather, with what sound it turns on, such a sharp, unpleasant click, as much as the whole saw resonates, is this normal? 2. The leading asterisk is all black and red, it should be like all silver-metallic. What does it mean? 3. There was no tire in the box; it was given separately. Was this a reason to beware?

The brake is released with a rather loud click and a shock is felt. There is a powerful spring, there is something to click. The asterisk is not clear, you need to look. Tire and chain. yes, separately. The main thing is that both of them should be Shtilevskoye.

After the saw warms up, idle disappears, does it stall? If the gas does not discharge, then you can work, as the gas released, it stalls. at the same time it starts up all the time normally, but on the hot one, you have to press the gas to start it, otherwise you can’t start it at idle, tell me what is the problem? I wanted to clarify about idle (spinning chain). I know that in the saw two screws can adjust idle speed. One LA, which the user can twist, the second L. it seems like it is desirable to twist on the service, so as not to harm the saw. According to the instructions, the user is allowed to twist these two screws, and only if this does not help, you should contact the service. Should I go into carburetor settings to optimize idle speed? If so, what is the algorithm of actions?

There are three adjusting screws. "N" it’s not worth turning at all, and it’s better to do the main idle adjustment "LA". he is just a throttle retaining screw. Screw "L" connected with idling, but more "is responsible" for acceleration of the engine and transition mode, so it is better not to touch it, if possible. Generally, the 250s were different "buggy" idling. Depending on the year of manufacture and the carburetor model installed, of course, but sometimes it was not possible to achieve normal idle at all. Or too high and twists the chain, or stalls. And sometimes "swam". you adjust, like, normal and suddenly. times, and accelerates. Or vice versa. falls. In general, it does not always succeed. So reduce idle "LA"what happens is what happens.

I work with a MS 250 saw, but after intensive use the saw set became unusable, i.e. both chains are stretched (although in principle they can still be cut if shortened), the bar (40) at the end has burrs outward, and the drive sprocket does not last long left to live. The question arose when, after stretching a chain with a hand on a tire, the chain seemed to stretch, then weaken, as if clinging to something. In general, after using 40, I decided to bet on 35 and the chain is not PM3 but PS (super). Is it worth it?

This is normal during heavy work. The chain has stretched. step increased. The sprocket has worn out. step decreased. One plus the other gives a big discrepancy between the steps of the tire and the sprocket, hence. running and twitching. I won’t say this to the bus, you have to watch. Cut the burrs, see how the new chain lies on the nose of the tire. If there is a gap between the sheet and the chain links, it is good and the tire will still work. If the chain "creeping along the sheets of the tire in the area of ​​the nose, the tire conditionally developed a resource. In general, they (and not only Shtil) have the following norm: one bus must work out with four chains, and two chains. with one asterisk. But this is not completely applicable, but only for clean fresh wood. There, just a couple of chains are knocked off when the drive sprocket wears out. On construction works, it can work 3, or even 4 chains on one sprocket (we blunt more often, we sharpen, respectively, too) And even more so on disassembling structures. 4. 5 chains on one sprocket is quite real. "super" Chains. Yes, I recommend it for fresh wood. Saw faster noticeably.

There is a gap at the tip of the tire between the tire web and the chain. That is, as I understand it, you can shorten both chains. But in my opinion it is necessary to shorten a couple of links, and this, as I understand it, is also not good? Even with the replacement of the leading sprocket wanted to clarify. how does the crown behave?

I would advise you to shorten it by no more than one leading link. And if the shortened chain is no longer stretched, it is better to throw it away. The step will be too different and nothing good. The cup itself works out with about three. four asterisks. Sometimes. more. Only the bearing must be smeared, otherwise on the second. the third star breaks the landing. And change the stars in time, and sometimes cups come across, almost cut in half in the center of the sleeve on which the asterisk sits.

About the brake, please tell me. Properly turn it on before starting. in practice, how critical and necessary is this? And further. at the beginning of the topic it was written about the leakage of saw oil during storage of the chainsaw. I also came across this and they told me that to avoid this, you just need to open and close the filler neck so that the air gets there. This is true?

The chain brake is larger for safety reasons, since when starting from the middle position of the lever, the chain immediately rotates. But if you be careful. there is no need for it at startup. I never use it, although the chainsaw is in my hands every day. And the oil on a working saw simply does not flow from anywhere, except from the tire and the recesses in the body and cover. Those few grams. no problems. And the lid of the oil tank can be opened and closed. it will not be worse.