3.5 X 5 Mini Wooden Jigsaw Puzzle (Landscape, 24 pieces). Miniature jig saw

.5 x 5 Mini Wooden Jigsaw Puzzle (Landscape, 24 pieces)

Have a young, small family? Make family time fun with your young children and piece together our 24 piece small jigsaw puzzle which can be personalized with your own family photo. Watch as your young kids enjoy family time with more fun and laughter!

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3.5 x 5 Small Wooden Invitation (Portrait, 24 pieces)

3.5 x 5 Mini Wooden Engraved Jigsaw Puzzle (24 pieces)

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Best Jigsaw for Gourds

One of the staples for your toolbench is going to be a jigsaw. But of the jigsaws on the market – which is the best jigsaw for gourds? Let us see if we can’t help narrow it down.

When we were evaluating the jigsaws we looked at these criteria:

Clean Cuts – Perhaps more of a function of the blades that you are using, as opposed to the saw itself – it is important to have a saw that will provide nice clean even cuts. You’ll likely be sanding down later, but you don’t want to have cuts that will splinter the gourd that you are working with.

Variable Control – When working with detail cuts, the ability to vary the speed can be important. We want to have a saw that can maintain a good cutting speed with enough power to make clean cuts, but also allows you to “slow your roll” and make precision cuts when the time is right.

Versatility – Are gourds not the only craft item that you are working with? We looked at saws that offered multiple uses to provide the most bang for your buck.

Durability – We reviewed both blades and the saw itself. With proper use, you should get plenty of usage out of both the saw and the blades it uses.

Ease of use – Lastly, we considered how easy is the tool to use – This could come down to personal preference, but factors such as weight, the base plate, and vibration are factors that play into that.

Jigsaw Comparisons

Clean Cuts – Of the the three we felt like the Micro Lux provided the cleanest cuts. The blades are slightly smaller, which provides higher detail and less jagged edges on detail cuts. The trade off, is that the Micro Lux isn’t well suited for thicker gourds.

Variable Control – All of the saws require a secondary transformer for variable control – We did like that the Proxxon has an optional foot pedal you can purchase.

Versatility – The Proxxon is definitely the most versatile. The Gourd Saw and Micro Lux are a bit smaller and aren’t generally suited for larger cuts (though the Gourd Saw gets an edge of the Microlux). The Proxon is the larger of the three saws and does just a bit more. Said one Amazon user:

There are many methods for cutting gourds with precision. I have tried many of them, and just discovered the definitions of ease and control. The Proxxon Jig Saw is perfect for gourd artists! From detailed patterns for lids and other openings to simply cutting the gourd open for cleaning, this a tool worth trying.

I bought mine together with a Heavy Duty Transformer and Foot Switch, and couldn’t be happier. This tool opens the door to new levels creativity!

The Micro Lux blades won’t work with the Gourd Saw or Proxxon and vise versa – Both the Proxxon and Gourd Saw can use the same style of blades.

Durability – All seemed to equally handle the normal wear and tear you’d expect on a gourd jigsaw.

Ease of use – The fact that they all require an additional transformer means that there is another set of cords you have to navigate. The Proxxon is the largest, and you may tire from it easier because of the weight. The Gourd Saw doesn’t use a guard. That is a bit of a mixed bag – on one hand, it makes it easier to see what you are directly cutting on, – on the other hand you loose some stability when making cuts.and there is a bit of a safety factor as well.

Light Duty, not recommended for thicker cuts. Well suited for finer cuts

Best all around saw on the market.

Use a versatile jigsaw tool to cut lumber, plywood, metal and tile.

Family Handyman

A jigsaw tool is the grand master of cutting shapes in a variety of materials. All you need is the right blade. We’ll show you how to use this versatile power tool for cutting intricate shapes and for making compound and bevel cuts in boards and other materials.

By the DIY experts of The Family Handyman Magazine

Time An hour or less Complexity Beginner Cost 51–100

Jigsaw: Cutting a range of materials

Jigsaw blades

Using the right blade is the key to cutting various materials.

My jigsaw often sits for months just gathering dust. But then I’ll need to cut out an intricate pattern for a hobby project, saw into a countertop to install a kitchen sink or cut a material like thin tile or metal that my other saws can’t handle. That’s when I remember why I love this jigsaw tool. It’s a versatile tool a novice can safely operate, control and—with minimal instruction—enjoy good results from within minutes of picking it up. We’ll show you how to get superior results cutting wood, plastic laminate, ceramic tile and metal.

Cutting wood with handheld jigsaw

Photo 1: Keep the saw shoe on the workpiece

Cut smooth curves in wood. Begin by pressing the saw shoe firmly on the workpiece with the blade away from the edge. Start the motor, guide the blade along the outside of the cutting line (for finer sanding later) and move from curves to inside corners. Always move the saw forward at a pace that allows the blade to cut without deflecting and doesn’t make the motor labor. Prevent the saw blade from binding on tight curves by using relief cuts to remove waste.

Photo 2: Use a fence for perfectly straight cuts.

A jigsaw is versatile enough to make straight, compound and beveled cuts through boards. Hold the workpiece firmly and guide the saw steadily against a saw fence. Avoid driving blades into the bench top (bending and breaking them) by using rails to raise the workpiece.

Photo 3: Finish cuts made with a circular saw

A jigsaw can precisely complete cuts begun with a circular saw in stair stringers, wood flooring and sheet materials. To avoid bumps in your final stair stringer, hold the jigsaw blade tight to the inside of the stringer cutting line.

Mini Leaves 24 Pieces Wooden Set of 6 Transport Jigsaw Puzzle

General purpose wood cutter blade

Jigsaws are ideal for cutting curves and complex shapes in wood (Photo 1). They also work well for making short crosscuts on a board (Photo 2) and finishing inside corner cuts (Photo 3) that you start with a circular saw. Jigsaws are not good for making fast, long, straight cuts. Use a circular saw instead. When cutting wood, follow these guidelines:

• Jigsaws work best for cutting softwood that’s no more than 1-1/2 in. thick and hardwood up to 3/4 in. thick. Jigsaw blades tend to bend when cutting curves in thicker boards, leaving a beveled edge rather than a square one. To keep the cut square, use a sharp blade and avoid forcing the saw through the cut.
• To “plunge cut,” that is, make an entry saw cut into the middle of your wood, tip the jigsaw so that the blade is parallel to the workpiece and the saw’s weight rests on the front lip of the shoe. Start the saw at maximum speed, tilt the shoe and steadily lower the stabbing blade into the wood. I usually reserve plunge-cutting for rough work so that an errant blade doesn’t slash and mar expensive woods. In fragile material, drill a 1/2-in. starter hole to safely position the blade for a cut.
• For quick cutting, use a coarser blade. But note that the coarser the blade, the more sanding later.
• Most wood-cutting blades for jigsaws are designed so the teeth cut on the upstroke. For fine work demanding less chipping—in wood veneers, for example—choose a “downstroke-cutting” blade (Photo 4). An alternative is to place painter’s or masking tape on the cutting line path before drawing on the pattern line.

Cutting countertops

Photo 4: Drill a hole to start the blade

Make precise, no-chip cuts in laminate by drilling a 1/2-in. starter hole in the countertop for the blade. Use a special laminate blade that cuts only on the downstroke, and follow the cutting line drawn on masking tape. Avoid marring the countertop by taping the bottom of the saw shoe.

Down-cutting laminate blade

A jigsaw is perfectly suited for making the curved (or short diagonal) cuts at the corners of countertops and for the final long cut parallel to the backsplash. When installing a sink, make the front and two side cuts in the countertop with a circular saw. It’s faster and there’s no blade deflection to deal with.

The narrow space between the sink cutting line and the backsplash won’t accommodate the wider circular saw shoe but lets the narrower shoe of most narrow-body jigsaws sneak in perfectly (Photo 4).

If you’re not comfortable making countertop cuts with a circular saw, use a jigsaw for the whole job. Cutting through a countertop with a jigsaw is slow-going. Choose a special down-cutting laminate blade. Its 5/16-in. wide blade, with eight teeth per inch, minimizes laminate chip-out. Use short relief cuts inside curves to ease the blade through the turn.

Cutting ceramic tile

Photo 5: Cut slowly when working with tile

Use a carbide-grit abrasive blade to make curved cuts in ceramic wall tile that’s up to 1/4 in. thick. Speed the work and reduce tile breakage by clamping the tile and using a light mist of water to lubricate the saw cut. Jigsaws that have a movable scrolling head work best to move the blade through tight curves. This is slow work that demands patience, blade changes and relief cuts to open the tightest turns.

Carbide-grit ceramic blade

Use this blade for cutting ceramic tile up to 1/4-in. thick.

Cutting curves and shapes into tile with tile nippers and ceramic rod saws is slow and results in a lot of tile breakage. If you’re cutting wall tile no more than 1/4 in. thick, try your jigsaw for this task.

Use special toothless, carbide-grit blades for tile cutting. For thin tile, apply water frequently to lubricate the saw cut. Thicker tile requires lubricating the saw cut with cutting oil.

To minimize tile breakage, it’s imperative that you clamp your tile down tightly and hold the saw firmly on the tile to control saw and blade vibration. Avoid marring the tile by applying masking tape to the saw shoe. Go slow, using short relief cuts to remove waste and ease the blade through the turn.

Cutting metal

Photo 6: Clamp metal between plywood to cut it.

Cut sheet metal without shredding it by clamping the workpiece tightly between two thin sheets of plywood. Begin by drilling saw blade starter holes inside all pattern circles. Cutting through a plywood sandwich is slow-going. For the smoothest cuts, select metal-cutting blades that have 21 to 24 teeth per inch.

Metal-cutting blade

Use blades with 21 to 24 teeth per inch to cut metal.

With the proper blade, jigsaws can cut through wood with embedded nails, 1/8-in. mild steel, no-iron pipe and sheet metal up to 10 gauge thick (Photo 6).

For cutting sheet metal, choose a finer blade with 21 to 24 teeth per inch. To avoid shredding sheet metal or raising a lot of edge burrs, tightly sandwich the metal between two layers of thin plywood. Cut metal plate and pipe on low speed. For pattern cutting, drill blade starter holes instead of making plunge cuts. Expect it to take a while to cut through the sandwich. When cutting over a workbench or sawhorses, prop the sandwich on rails for adequate blade clearance below.

Features such as higher saw power, long blade stroke, variable speeds and orbital cutting action are all pluses for cutting metals, and are found on more costly jigsaws. Saws that are equipped with vacuum hose connections to keep the pattern cut sightlines free of dust also are a plus. Cutting pipe and mild steel plates wears out blades fast. Keep plenty of blades on hand, select a coarser blade (like 14 teeth per inch) and lubricate the saw cut with cutting oil.

Blade and Saw Basics

A jigsaw (also called a saber saw) cuts in a Rapid up-and-down motion. The key to excellent results with a jigsaw is to match a specific blade to the type of material you’ll cut: wood, metal, plastics, tile, etc. The blade package will indicate what material the blade cuts best.

Most blades are carbon steel, 2 to 3-1/2 in. long and either 1/4 in. wide for making tight radius cuts or 3/8 in. wide for general-purpose cutting. Six-teeth-per-inch blades cut fast but rough; finer blades with 10 or more teeth per inch deliver smoother cuts. Special toothless blades cut everything from leather to tile. When buying blades, consider investing in bimetal blades. They can last 10 times longer and are less likely to break.

When purchasing a saw, check to see what type of blades it uses. Most jigsaws accept blades with a 1/4-in. universal tang that locks into the blade clamp with a set screw. Some saws accept only specially designed blades (like bayonet-mount) from their own manufacturer. Once you discover the blades you use the most, stock up to avoid running out in the middle of a job.

If you’ll only use a jigsaw once in a while, you may want to buy just a basic model. When you’re ready to move up, you can spend more than 200 for a heavy-duty saw that performs better and has more features, such as:

• Orbital cutting action. If you’ve ever rocked a handsaw up and down while cutting a board or firewood, you’ve noticed how this speeds the cutting action. Jigsaws with this feature have dialed settings that change the pitch of the blade from straight up and down for metal cutting to angled forward for aggressively cutting wood.
• Longer blade stroke. Using a jigsaw that delivers a 1-in. long blade stroke will get you through a job faster than using a saw with a 1/2-in. long stroke.
• Blade guides. Saws so equipped have a pair of rollers or other guides below the blade clamping assembly (Photo 4) to steady the blade for less bending and greater accuracy.
• Variable speeds. A jigsaw with preset speed settings or a variable speed trigger allows you to customize each cut and to slow down when you’re at a tricky point in a pattern. This helps you work with a wide variety of materials and densities, too.

Required Tools for this Project

You’ll also need a jigsaw blade for the material you’re cutting.

If you’re cutting countertops, you’ll need a drill and a 1/2-in. drill bit to make a starter hole.

Miniature Jigsaw Puzzles made from Postage Stamps

Miniature jigsaw puzzles made from postage stamps … that sounds like something I would like, right? This stamp is so small I almost had to use tweezers to put this back together:

These amazingly tiny wood jigsaw puzzles are made by my friends father, Lynn Warner. Here he is at the Indiana State Fair demonstrating his woodwork (on a foot powered saw that he built):

A stamp commemorating the 100th anniversary of mail order:

The pieces of the puzzle are smaller than a pea…so you can imagine how small the intricate cuts have to be!

These are so unique because Lynn uses a technique which allows the main image from the front of the puzzle to be seen as cut-out shapes on the backside too:

Jigsaw Puzzle Tricks and Tips | How to check the quality

“A commemorative postage stamp is affixed to a 3/16″ plywood, then given 2 coats of clear acrylic finish. Using a very small (8/0) jeweler’s coping saw blade installed in a standard scroll saw the puzzle is cut. Yes, a magnifying glass equipped with a light is used during cutting. After cutting is complete, the puzzle’s backside is sanded and the sawdust is blown away. The process takes an average of an hour. The time varies with the particular stamp being cut and the number of times the cutter has cut the chosen stamp.”

Lynn includes a history of jigsaw puzzles in the packaging with each of his puzzles. A few excerpts:

• The originals of jigsaw puzzles go back to the 1760’s when European map makers pasted maps onto wood and cut them into small pieces.
• With the inventions of the treadle jigsaw and plywood in the late 1800s and early 1900s, puzzles for adults and entertainment emerged into a full-blown craze in the United States.
• Because wood puzzles had to be cut one piece at at time, they were expensive. A 500-piece puzzle typically cost 5 in 1908, far beyond the means for the average worker who earned only 50 per month. High society, however, embraced the new amusement. Later, die cut cardboard puzzles brought the price down to a rate that most people could afford. With the lower prices, some companies began giving puzzles as premiums for buying their product.
• With the onset of the Great Depression in 1929, puzzles for adults enjoyed a resurgence of popularity. Puzzles seemed to touch a chord, offering an escape from the troubled times. With incomes depleted, home amusements like puzzles replaced outside entertainment. During the 1930s’ craze for puzzles, drugstores and circulating libraries added puzzle rentals to their offerings. They charged three to ten cents per day, depending on their size.

I wonder how many pieces were lost during rentals? And did they count the puzzle pieces when they came back just to make sure they were all returned?

I had to posed the little tiny puzzles with a few of my little tiny railroad miniatures. I think this looks like Sir Richard Branson:

It’s funny, I remember doing puzzles when I was younger. My grandparents always had a puzzle out to work on. I think we did a few puzzles while we were at the Hemlock Inn a year ago. Since they were community puzzles they were alway inevitably missing a piece or two. I remember Harper the Intern trying to match puzzle pieces back to the original box in her spare time! I think I might start looking for some good puzzles to have around the house for snow days. Jigsaw puzzles are good for the brain!

A 32,000 piece puzzle. The box weighs 42 pounds and the finished puzzle dimensions are 17′ x 6′. I think this is my new answer to the question: what would you take with you to a deserted island?

This 15-year-old is the fastest puzzler on the planet. She can assemble about 18 pieces per minute. I think my eyes would fall out.

Supposedly the hardest jigsaw puzzle ever…a 1,000 piece CMYK puzzle in 1,000 colors.

Thank you Lynn for sharing your awesome work with us!

About Ashley Hackshaw

Living a simple, creative life in #smalltownusa Bryson City, NC. Renovating a 1960s ranch house and an old train depot. Thank you for reading! Read more in my about section.

Комментарии и мнения владельцев

He doesn’t sell the online! I asked him to but I think it would result in having to make too many and it would take the joy out of it. If you want to email me a subject matter that interests you I will make a note and maybe he’ll end up cutting one. You never know

This is SO cool! And how neat that the first puzzles were maps. My grandma always has a puzzle out that she’s working on, and gets so many as gifts that I imagine she must have a hundred or more from over the years!

These puzzles are amazing! I don’t know how he can cut such small intricate pieces. I once met an artist that does drawings on pistachio shells.

Wasgijs are great fun. It is Jigsaw backwards. You are not given the picture, only the scene watching it. There are some connections for starting. They are made in New ZealAnd.

My youngest and i have a puzzle out nearly all the time. (We bought a big picture frame and inserted a piece of plywood for the glass so we can move it places- in and out of the way of what others are doing around here) she’s 14 now and its still a great way for us to talk and connect in an evening.

These are great! If only I could do this. So detailed. I have inherited stamps that would be so cool to turn into a piece of art like this.

My house is filled with woodwork that my grandpa has made me with a scroll saw. So intricate and detailed. That’s what he loves to do, and my grandma says it keeps him going at 84. He can’t make much now. His hands shake too much to hold the wood or blade steady. My grandma has always had a puzzle out. When I was little, we would stay up late into the night working on a puzzle in a quiet house. Comforting memories. If Lynn would ever consider selling a stamp through the internet, I would love to buy one for my grandparents. They would sit and marvel at it for hours. I understand the “Joy in making them” though. That’s what my grandpa would say too.