Gas Weed Eater Won’t Start? Try This. Weed eater fuel filter
Ryobi String Trimmer Fuel Filter Replacement 310976001
Weed-eater fuel line routes from tank/primer bulb/carb
Since a few others have already read the (small engine repair) thread, I thought I would add this so that you all wont miss reading this. The fuel lines on the carb may be a little confusing so I will explain the lines and how they hook up. The weed-eater has a thick line and a thin line both coming from the fuel tank. The thin line is your fuel feed while the thick one is your fuel return/breather. When replacing the thin line, it connects to the filter inside the tank. Pull out about 1″ of fuel line from the fuel cap opening and attach filter. Replace the line back into the tank just like that because you want the fuel filter/line to flop around inside the tank. Now that same line goes from the tank to the bottom connector on the carb. Now you need about 3″ of small fuel line which will go from the top connector of the carb to the small inlet connector on the primer bulb base. Now that thick line from the tank is connected to the big connector on the primer bulb base. The thick line inside the tank should have a breather nipple attached to it. This line should be about 1/4″ to 1″ below the fuel cap hole. This is a breather valve so you dont want it submerged in fuel when priming the carb. Oh, getting those rubber hoses into the tank is a pain in the ass and a little time comsuming. Definately need a long pair of needle nose pliers to pull those lines in thru the tank. I hope this helps some for those who are tinkering with their weed-eaters at home. I have not worked on chain-saws or gas blowers yet but I guess it would be the same since it is a small engine.
Walbro Carbs. What fitting is the intake and which one is the outlet?
Most of these Walbro carbs have about the same design but some have the fuel connectors on differant sides of the carb. On these carbs, there is a plate on top and on the bottom of the carb. The plate with four screws attached is your metering valve side. The fuel line closer to this is your fuel return or exit side going to the primer bulb and from the primer bulb back to the fuel tank. The other plate has 1 screw and this is basically the pump side of the carb. The fuel line fitting closest to this plate is your intake line directly from the fuel tank. The only small thin line you should have is your fuel feed and the rest of the lines are the thicker lines. I hope this helps when trying to figure out which connector is your intake and out-take on these carbs.
info on Carbs and bad running carbs
For those small engines like weedeaters, chain saws, blowers and ect. If the carb has a built in primer, the fuel line closest to the primer bulb is your fuel return back to the fuel tank while the other fuel line is your main fuel feed.
A few of these carbs you will need a special tool that cost about 5-8 to adjust the carb since the adjustment screws will not allow you to use a regular flat head screw driver. I dont know if anyone here has had a problem with there small machines, but when you start it, it sounds like you have the fuel trigger pulled all the way back even when your not touching it. Then when you do touch it, it slows down or dies out when you think you are giving it gas. The problem is the carb needs to be adjusted. First start by adjusting the low adjustment to where it just stays running without dying out on you. After that, adjust the high adjustment untill you get the running speed you are looking for while you are holding the throttle open. You can buy that tool on the websites that I have mentioned before. I am getting alot of good weedeaters at the salvage yards for 5 each and its not costing me much to fix these things now. The mot I have spent so far fixing one is 20 to replace a bad carb and its fuel lines.
10 Year Member
Thanks for sharing your knowledge, ssgt. I have 3 of them in our chicken coop. Will try’n get ’em going this spring. Wz
You can find something wrong with everybody if you want to search long enough Calley’s Brigade 100% PTSD
warzone54 wrote: Thanks for sharing your knowledge, ssgt. I have 3 of them in our chicken coop. Will try’n get ’em going this spring. Wz
Let me know how they turn out. The carb rebuilt kits are like 10 or a new carb anywhere from 20-60 depending on where and who you buy them from. If the diaphrams even seem to be hard and not flexible then I would buy a rebuild kit. If you need any help at all, please let me know and I will help out the best that I can over the internet!
trouble than it’s worth?
John Deere 230G Weed Eater. Had typical start up probs this year, but when I poured out the old gas, out fell the intank fuel line and filter. Arrgh. Well, I fished it out, managed to get the fuel line and breather line loose, but cannot see any way to reconnect the interior line with the exterior fuel line. They appear to be the same diameter. If I weren’t so cheap and stubborn I would just junk it and get a new weed eater. Any ideas how to fix this?
This is because the fuel line and the return line are a one piece unit. You should have one thin line which is your fuel line that goes from the carb to (Inside the fuel tank) and attached to the filter. The thicker line is your return line which goes from the carb if it has the primer bulb built into the carb or to the external primer bulb if not attached to the carb. That line feeds directly into the tank also and has a breather valve attached to the end when inside the tank. You can buy the fuel line kit at home depot for 3.00 to 5.00 depending on what brands that store carries. I would draw a diagram of the line and how they are attached before taking off the remaining fuel lines of the carb/primer bulb. You may need to take the fuel tank off for easier excess but usually they are held in by two bolts. You will need a long pair of needle nose pliers also. Feed the new lines from the bottom of the tank making sure you put the thin line in the small hole and the thicker line into the bigger hole. Its easier by cutting the ends at a 45 degree and put a dap of grease to help insert the new lines. When you can not work the lines in anymore by hand then you need the plier to fish them tru the tank. Pull about a inch out for each line from the fuel hole and cut the line fluch again. Attach the filter to the thin line and the breather valve to the thicker line. Pull the line back thru about 1 inch from the filler neck. You want the lines to flop around with gravity so that its able to find the fuel when you twist the weedeater when using. Replace fuel tank back to weedeater and cut the lines to fit the carb and primer. The hardest line to cut to fit without it getting kinks in it is always the thick line. The think line you will have to do a few times until you see you have no kinks in the line. The lines are hard as hell to do without a long pair of needle nose pliers handy so have a pair ready.
I have two weedeater xtremes. Can you post a diagram on how the two fuel lines coming from the tank are supposed to link with the curberetor? I tried all day yesterday to get them to work to no avail. You stated the large line is the return line, but I am confused which line it attaches to on the carbeuretor. Is it the one closes to the bulb primer?
Staten Island Ova Here!
Not sure if this will help. It seems that one fuel line is bigger and and might lend a clue.
“Never Look Down on Anybody. Unless Your Helping Them Up. “
20 Year Member
I tried to replace the lines in a Weedeater blower last year and apparently bought the wrong lines at Ace. They would not go into the plastic gas tank so I ended up drilling the tank’s holes larger. The blower would not start. Need to find the right replacement lines and take the plastic tank off an old Weedeater to make things work.
Inserting the gas lines into the weed–eater gas tank.
I found it easy to insert the gas lines into the gas tank.
Tools you’ll need are: a pair of needle nose pliers/ also a 6 inch piece of guitar string wire, scissors cut the tips of the hoses to make a V-shape. Use a small drill bit to make a hole into the V-shape tip on your two hoses. insert the wire through the hole in the V-shape, twist the wire, now take the lead end of the wire in through the gas cap hole. Shape lead end in a U shape.
thread the wire out through the exit hole of the gas tank. pull out the hose and use your needle nose pliers to pull out the V- shape tip of the hose,through the hole on top of the gas tank.
i tried it and it was easy to pull out the hoses with the needle nose pliers. I pulled hard on the V-shaped plastic hose and out came the line. next pull out enough hose. cut the tip and attach it to the feed line of the carburator. Do the same to the other hose.
Share this if it worked for you; Thanks.
I have a Ryobi 725 trimmer that was running and the bulb went bad (cracked and squirted gas everywhere) I got a new bulb and then it would start and run about 5 seconds. I replaced the carburetor with a new one after cleaning it, no joy, same thing. Then I replaced the fuel lines, checked the pickup in the tank and used this thread to be sure I had all of the hoses routed right. It seems fine and fuel is going the right way when I pump the ball. I tried another ball, still no joy. Starts and runs 5 seconds. Pump the ball again, it starts and runs 5 seconds. I am sure it is a fuel problem but I am out of ideas.
Re:
warzone54 wrote: Thanks for sharing your knowledge, ssgt. I have 3 of them in our chicken coop. Will try’n get ’em going this spring. Wz
Let me know how they turn out. The carb rebuilt kits are like 10 or a new carb anywhere from 20-60 depending on where and who you buy them from. If the diaphrams even seem to be hard and not flexible then I would buy a rebuild kit. If you need any help at all, please let me know and I will help out the best that I can over the internet!
I inadvertently ran across some super cheap deals on Amazon for all things weedeater/chainsaw/2cycle eng parts, esp carb and fuel line acc. If I recall correctly, carbs were like 12.00(new) and I ordered primer bulbs 5 for 1.36 (with no cage) then 5 WITH cage (complete assy) for not much more, three of the most common fuel filters at quantities of 5 ea. 3 of the most common fuel line sizes etc. I don’t have the in front of me, but trust me it was cheap, cheap! The down side is, most of it ships direct from china 2-4 weeks. But I will use everything I ordered eventually because I’m working on one or the other every day. The last time I went to an implement store and bought a primer bulb, I believe I paid almost 15.00 for one bulb! I needed it bad but couldn’t shake the feeling that they really bent me over!
ssgtwright2515 wrote: Since a few others have already read the (small engine repair) thread, I thought I would add this so that you all wont miss reading this. The fuel lines on the carb may be a little confusing so I will explain the lines and how they hook up. The weed-eater has a thick line and a thin line both coming from the fuel tank. The thin line is your fuel feed while the thick one is your fuel return/breather. When replacing the thin line, it connects to the filter inside the tank. Pull out about 1″ of fuel line from the fuel cap opening and attach filter. Replace the line back into the tank just like that because you want the fuel filter/line to flop around inside the tank. Now that same line goes from the tank to the bottom connector on the carb. Now you need about 3″ of small fuel line which will go from the top connector of the carb to the small inlet connector on the primer bulb base. Now that thick line from the tank is connected to the big connector on the primer bulb base. The thick line inside the tank should have a breather nipple attached to it. This line should be about 1/4″ to 1″ below the fuel cap hole. This is a breather valve so you dont want it submerged in fuel when priming the carb. Oh, getting those rubber hoses into the tank is a pain in the ass and a little time comsuming. Definately need a long pair of needle nose pliers to pull those lines in thru the tank. I hope this helps some for those who are tinkering with their weed-eaters at home. I have not worked on chain-saws or gas blowers yet but I guess it would be the same since it is a small engine.
Thank you ssgtwright2515! I have been trying to get my brain wrapped around the concept of routing these lines for some time now. You have explained it straight forward and comprehensive without all the unnecessary filler. Concerning the replacement of fuel lines, I have found a foolproof way to deal with any of them regardless of how snug they fit in the hole. For me, now it’s a matter of minutes to replace them. First, I suggest using a hemostat instead of needle nose. I found 10″ ones on Amazon for 7.00, which so far, have been adequate for any I’ve replaced. The second step is to cut the fuel line at a sharp angle so that you have a ‘point’ instead if a flat nub. Feed the ‘point’ through the hole easily because it is half the size or diameter of the line. Then just use the hemostat to pull it through the hole. It doesn’t hurt to use a lubricant if you need to. Of course, once you get it through the hole, you’ll want to pull it where you can cut the line square now to fit on the filter or whatever so always leave a little extra line to accommodate this. I’m a retired mechanic of 45 yrs. on gasoline engines, four cycle of course, truck and auto. My thinking was since a two-cycle is basically half the size of a four, being it has no heads or crankcase, that this would be a piece of cake to repair these and turn around and sell them. Well, not quite so. 2 cycles have their own peculiarities and quirks, some of which have simply driven me up a wall at times. You’re never too old to learn and I’m grateful for people like you who have no fear or hesitation in sharing what they know. Thank you again!
ssgtwright2515 wrote: Since a few others have already read the (small engine repair) thread, I thought I would add this so that you all wont miss reading this. The fuel lines on the carb may be a little confusing so I will explain the lines and how they hook up. The weed-eater has a thick line and a thin line both coming from the fuel tank. The thin line is your fuel feed while the thick one is your fuel return/breather. When replacing the thin line, it connects to the filter inside the tank. Pull out about 1″ of fuel line from the fuel cap opening and attach filter. Replace the line back into the tank just like that because you want the fuel filter/line to flop around inside the tank. Now that same line goes from the tank to the bottom connector on the carb. Now you need about 3″ of small fuel line which will go from the top connector of the carb to the small inlet connector on the primer bulb base. Now that thick line from the tank is connected to the big connector on the primer bulb base. The thick line inside the tank should have a breather nipple attached to it. This line should be about 1/4″ to 1″ below the fuel cap hole. This is a breather valve so you dont want it submerged in fuel when priming the carb. Oh, getting those rubber hoses into the tank is a pain in the ass and a little time comsuming. Definately need a long pair of needle nose pliers to pull those lines in thru the tank. I hope this helps some for those who are tinkering with their weed-eaters at home. I have not worked on chain-saws or gas blowers yet but I guess it would be the same since it is a small engine.
Thank you ssgtwright2515! I have been trying to get my brain wrapped around the concept of routing these lines for some time now. You have explained it straight forward and comprehensive without all the unnecessary filler. Concerning the replacement of fuel lines, I have found a foolproof way to deal with any of them regardless of how snug they fit in the hole. For me, now it’s a matter of minutes to replace them. First, I suggest using a hemostat instead of needle nose. I found 10″ ones on Amazon for 7.00. which so far, have been adequate for any I’ve replaced. The second step is to cut the fuel line at a sharp angle so that you have a ‘point’ instead if a flat nub. Feed the ‘point’ through the hole easily because it is half the size or diameter of the line. Then just use the hemostat to pull it through the hole. It doesn’t hurt to use a lubricant if you need to. Of course, once you get it through the hole, you’ll want to pull it where you can cut the line square now to fit on the filter or whatever so always leave a little extra line to accommodate this. I’m a retired mechanic of 45 yrs. on gasoline engines, four cycle of course, truck and auto. My thinking was since a two-cycle is basically half the size of a four, being it has no heads or crankcase, that this would be a piece of cake to repair these and turn around and sell them. Well, not quite so. 2 cycles have their own peculiarities and quirks, some of which have simply driven me up a wall at times. You’re never too old to learn and I’m grateful for people like you who have no fear or hesitation in sharing what they know. Thank you again!
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Gas Weed Eater Won’t Start? Try This
Weed eater, weed whacker, string trimmer – no matter what you call it, here’s how to get it running again.
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No matter what you call it – weed eater, weed whacker, string trimmer – chances are at some point it won’t start. Few things are more annoying than destroying your shoulder trying to start a gas weed eater when there’s work to do.
Fortunately, gas weed-eater engines are pretty simple, so most DIYers with a few tools and some basic know-how can troubleshoot a stubborn trimmer and get it running.
) Check The Gasoline
Gasoline can break down in as little as 30 days, especially today’s ethanol-containing gas.
Homeowners sometimes stash their string trimmer in the garage at season’s end without stabilizing the gas. Oxygen has all winter to break down and ruin the gasoline, leaving you with a trimmer that won’t start in the spring.
If your trimmer falls into this category, empty the old gas from the fuel tank and replace it with fresh fuel.
If your weed eater won’t start, trying removing the air filter and spraying carburetor cleaner into the intake.
) Clean The Carburetor
Once gas breaks down, varnish, gums and other debris can form inside the carburetor and clog the tiny fuel passages. This prevents fuel from reaching the combustion chamber and igniting, leaving you to struggle with a trimmer that won’t start.
Remove the air filter and spray carburetor cleaner into the intake. Let it sit for several minutes to help loosen and dissolve varnish. Replace the filter and try starting the trimmer.
If this doesn’t solve the problem, consider disassembling the carburetor to give it a more thorough cleaning.
Beware, however – taking apart a carburetor marks a point-of-no-return, of sorts. Understanding how the delicate gaskets, tiny screws and needle valves go back together can be a challenge, even on a relatively simple string-trimmer carburetor. Take pictures with your phone throughout the process to help reassembly. Clean all the openings and passages with carburetor cleaner.
If you’re reluctant to take apart the carb, visit the servicing dealer.
Remove the spark plug and use light sandpaper to clean electrode deposits to help fix a gas trimmer that won’t start.
) Clean/Replace Spark Plug
Oil deposits and carbon can foul the spark plug in a two-stroke engine if a low-quality oil is used. Deposits on the electrode prevent the plug from firing properly, which can reduce performance or prevent the engine from running altogether.
Plugs are inexpensive, so replace it if it’s fouled. If you don’t have a new plug available, clean the deposits from the electrode with light-duty sandpaper and check the gap. Consult the owner’s manual for the correct gap size.
If you know the spark plug is good, but the engine still doesn’t produce spark, the coil is likely to blame and requires replacement.
Direct compressed air from the inside of the air filter toward the outside to remove debris that may be restricting airflow.
) Clean/Replace Air Filter
A clogged air filter prevents the engine from receiving sufficient air to operate properly.
Before removing the air filter, brush away loose debris from around the filter cover and filter element. Tap rigid filters on a tabletop or the palm of your hand to dislodge any dirt or debris. Compressed air also works well. Make sure you direct air through the filter from the inside to avoid lodging debris deeper in the filter.
Avoid washing paper filters as this can collapse their micro-fine structure. Foam filters, however, can easily be washed using mild detergent and warm water.
As with the spark plug, however, replacement is often the best practice, especially if the filter is excessively dirty.
A spark-arrestor screen clogged with deposits can choke off airflow enough to prevent the trimmer from starting.
) Clean The Spark-Arrestor Screen
On many trimmers, a small screen covers the exhaust outlet and prevents sparks from exiting the muffler and potentially starting a fire.
As with plug fouling, too much oil in the gasoline, inferior oil and continued low-rpm operation can plug the screen with carbon deposits. This prevents exhaust-gas flow, which leads to power loss. In extreme cases, heavy deposits choke airflow enough to leave you with a weed eater that won’t start.
To fix the problem, remove the spark-arrestor screen and spray it with a heavy-duty cleaner, like AMSOIL Power Foam to soften the deposits before cleaning the screen with an abrasive pad. Reinstall the screen and test the trimmer.
Replace the screen altogether if it’s excessively plugged with carbon.
SYNTHETIC VS. CONVENTIONAL
Although you might know that synthetic oils outperform conventional oils, you might not understand why. The differences begin at the molecular level.
Replacing Fuel Lines in a String Trimmer
Posted 7 years ago on Thursday, June 23rd, 2016 by James S.
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Ethanol in Gas
The addition of ethanol in gas has been a major problem with small engines, such as string trimmers. In the US, almost all gas pumps have a 10% ethanol blend. A major issue is that it has a tendency to break down rubber, resulting in discoloration and cracking of the fuel lines. If this occurs, replacing fuel lines is the only fix. Fortunately, replacing fuel lines in a string trimmer or other small power tool is not very difficult.
Ethanol is a corn-based alternative fuel. It’s cheaper and more stable (higher octane) than gasoline, but has a lower energy density. High-ethanol blends such as e85, which are 85% ethanol, thus lend themselves well to forced induction applications, where the high octane is desirable to prevent pre-ignition.
For the average consumer, ethanol is less desirable. Because it is less energy dense than gasoline, it results in worse fuel economy. It also has a tendency to attract water, so it is more prone to going bad from sitting than gasoline. Fuel stabilizers, such as Stabil, can help with this issue.
As a final aside, because it is prone to collect water and rot your fuel lines, it is recommended to drain ethanol gas from small outdoor power tools. I tend to drain my string trimmer’s tank in the fall and then run it out of gas before storing for the winter. It seems like too much of a pain to do this every week. This worked fine until I forgot to do it last year. My chainsaw, on the other hand, sees less use, so I always empty it after use.
Weedeater 101. The two most common reasons for failure to start.
Symptoms of bad fuel line
So how do you know if your fuel line has gone bad? It can discolor. My trimmer has a clear green-tinted line that had started turning brown. It’ll also become fairly brittle, and you may be able to pinch the hose and see cracks. The primer bulb also won’t seal properly, so you’ll notice more air than usual when you try to prime the trimmer. Lastly, it may not rev up properly when you give it throttle. At higher throttle, it may suck air instead of gas, leaning out your fuel mixture.
If replacing the fuel lines doesn’t work, the other likely culprit is your carburetor. As I describe in my article on replacing a string trimmer carburetor, it’s cheap and easy to buy a remanufactured unit and drop it in. It is worth starting by at least inspecting the line for cracks, though.
Getting replacement fuel line
Easy mode: Home depot sells a “fuel line kit” for Echo trimmers
There are a few ways to go about getting replacement fuel line. The easiest and most expensive is a kit, such as the one pictured. This one costs about 11 at Home Depot, and is a drop-in replacement fuel line for my Echo GT-225, among other string trimmers. Most brands offer something similar. Replacing fuel line in a string trimmer this way is very easy, as everything is already cut to length and ready to go. It also includes a replacement fuel filter, which is usually a couple of bucks by itself, along with a primer bulb and gas cap seal. If you need a carburetor as well, you can buy all of it on Amazon for about 22.
You can also buy a spool of universal fuel line for 4 or so. This will work as long as it’s the right diameter. Simply cut off pieces of tubing to replace what you have. I went the easy route.
Removing the old fuel line
The first step is to completely remove the gas cap. After unscrewing it, this trimmer has a plastic circle that you can pinch and remove.
Then, you can unplug the fuel lines from the carburetor. One line will bring gas to the carb, and the other is a return. These lines look new because they were from an attempt to use some scrap tubing from replacing the wiper hoses in my car. They weren’t quite the right size, although very close.
With the fuel lines undone, you can push the grommet holding all of the fuel lines down into the tank. It can also be pulled out, whichever way works easier.
Pull the grommet and lines up through the fuel fill area
You can then reach down through the fuel fill area, snag the lines and grommet, and pull the whole assembly out. This will include the fuel filter attached to the end of one of the lines. If it’s hard to reach, a bent coat hanger works.
Replacing the line
If you are using universal line, you should at this point cut off pieces of tubing and replace the pieces you just pulled out. In the case of this string trimmer, there is one line in the tank, attached to the fuel filter, and there are three lines outside of the tank. Two of these go to the carburetor, and one goes to a vent. There is also a male-male hose adapter connecting the inside line and one of the outside lines. You can probably reuse this as long as it hasn’t cracked.
If you have a pre-made kit like this, you can begin feeding the fuel filter into the tank as shown. If your fuel filter won’t fit, you can try to put it back in through the fill opening, but it’s difficult to get the grommet back through from inside the tank. Alternatively, you can keep the fuel filter off for now, and put it on the line after the grommet is in place.
The grommet should be able to be pushed into the tank as shown.
Once you get the grommet fully seated, the job is nearly done.
The final piece is to reconnect the two fuel lines to the carburetor. On my trimmer with the factory colored lines they connect as shown. Now, you may have forgotten the order in which these connect. If you do, it’s no big deal: just take a guess and attempt to prime the trimmer. If the bulb won’t fill, you need to switch the lines around.
Replacing the gas cap gasket (optional)
Simply pulls off with a screwdriver or this paint can opener
This step is totally optional. There is a gasket under the fuel cap that my kit included. I figured that I may as well replace it. To do this, simply pry the old one off and slide the new one on.
Wrap-up
Today’s increase in ethanol-blend gas can damage your outdoor power tool fuel lines. Fortunately, replacing fuel lines in a string trimmer or similar power tool is pretty easy. It’s not a bad idea to try to seek out 100% gasoline; there are websites that can help with this. Also be sure to completely empty your trimmer of ethanol-blend gas, even if it has Stabil in it, when it is going to sit for any significant period of time.
If your trimmer is dying and replacing the fuel lines didn’t help, you may need to repair or replace the carburetor. Fortunately, complete replacement carbs are now available online for 15-20. I’ll document doing this on my trimmer in a coming article.