How to Change the Velcro On the Sander
Angle grinder, if you know and correctly use all its capabilities. the device is truly universal, which lends itself to almost any material. And if we are talking about wood processing on a large scale, then the "angle grinder" is much more effective than hand abrasive tools and accessories. The main thing is to choose the appropriate nozzle. With their main modifications and specifics of application this article will help to understand.
Varieties of nozzles for angle grinder for wood processing
Coarse wood stripping
Such a nozzle almost completely replaces this hand tool.
An irreplaceable thing, if you need, for example, to draft the logs. when erecting a log house, preparing the supports of the fence, and so on.
- In this case, the protective cover can be removed. Such a nozzle is solid cast, and its destruction does not occur. But protection from flying wood chips (glasses, tight clothing, mittens) is required.
- Only work with an “angle grinder”, in which a second handle is provided (or is installed), is allowed. The angle grinder must be held during rough processing of the tree with two hands.
The main purpose of such nozzles is to remove the bark from the wood, and to hew the workpiece. If the “angle grinder” is in skillful hands, then with such a device you can make a selection of material. For example, if necessary, cutting down the bowl. If a log cabin is being built, then a angle grinder with such a nozzle perfectly replaces the carpentry ax.
In some cases, a roughing disc can be cut. True, the cut will be wide, and there will be a lot of waste (chips, sawdust).
Such nozzles are available in various designs. The main difference between the devices is the grain size of the abrasive.
According to the specifics of their application, they are not much different from rasps. The only difference is the speed of the technological operation. With certain skills, such nozzles should also be used for finishing wood.
They are, and especially for wood. The assortment is significant, since nozzles of this type differ in the configuration, arrangement and size of the teeth.
- Groove selection.
- Preliminary alignment of edges.
- Cutting the bowl.
- Sawing up (for wooden blanks of small cross section).
- When processing wood with such nozzles, it is forbidden to dismantle the protective casing.
- Each product has a manual. It clearly indicates for what types of work this nozzle is intended, the recommended speed is “angle grinder” and so on.
If you decipher the abbreviation of angle grinder, it is clear that finishing is the main purpose of the "angle grinder".
They are mainly used for primary (rough) polishing of wood when it is required to smooth out sample irregularities.
The name speaks for itself. Such nozzles process the final parts of wooden blanks (slices). Especially effective if you have to deal with corner (oblique) cuts.
The most used grinding devices for the "angle grinder".
The most versatile fixture to the "angle grinder." Its one is quite enough for varying degrees of grinding. The nozzle itself is a metal base on which circles with one or another grain size are attached. They easily change either as they wear out, or in the case of a transition to another area of work. Therefore, only circles are consumables. The nozzle itself is used for unlimited time.
- Grinding wood.
- Scraping parquet.
- Edge and end processing.
- Scraping wood before painting.
For these purposes, brushes, wheels circles are used. Their “working elements” can be made of sponge, felt, fine-grained “sandpaper” and a number of other materials.
The article provides examples of only the main types of attachments for the "angle grinder". There are a lot of products of this class, so it’s easy to choose the best option for the processing of any wood. The author hopes that the information provided will help the reader in this.
Nozzles for working with wood
Nozzles for grinding wood on an angle grinder are different in shape, purpose and materials. Wood surface first must be processed in a rough way. And only after that the final processing is carried out.
Angle Grinder Attachments for grinding are as follows:
Using an angle grinder and special devices for it, you can restore furniture covered with varnish or paint. Thanks to such cleaning, the thickness of the wooden surface is practically remains unchanged. But if you paint the furniture again, the furniture will take on a beautiful and spectacular appearance.
When performing grinding work, special nozzles are used:
When choosing a polishing wheel for an angle grinder, several factors should be considered:
- outer diameter (large sizes speed up the processing process and increase the life of the product);
- landing diameter;
- thickness (the larger it is, the longer the circle will last);
- granularity (it must be selected, taking into account the type of processing: for rough work. large abrasive, for soft. fine).
Video: How to Change the Velcro On the Sander
When choosing a wheel, you must also consider the dimensions of the tool. The circle is fixed with a special nut. When working with an angle grinder, it is important strictly observe safety precautions. Circles should choose factory.
The vast majority of grinding operations in everyday life is carried out manually or using a drill. This is understandable. Buying expensive specialized equipment for use at home, where grinding operations, as a rule, vary greatly in appearance, is not always advisable.
There are various devices for manual and mechanized grinding. All of them can be divided into two main types.
Devices for dust extraction can be attributed to a separate species, which, due to the abundance and harmfulness of grinding dust, should also not be neglected.
Hand tools for grinding
When working manually, to ensure the necessary processing parameters, a wide variety of grinding tools are used.
The most simple hand-held devices include sanding pads, which can be named: sanding blocks, grinding stones, etc. Depending on their shape, they can process both flat and shaped surfaces.
A grinding block consists of three main elements. a case with a working surface on which the skin is pulled, a clamping mechanism that fixes the skin on the block, and a handle to which the grinding force is applied. The latter, as an independent element, may also be absent, in which case its role is played by the corps. The clamping mechanism can also be replaced by other elements that perform its function, for example, or Velcro.
Many types of branded pads are produced, differing from each other in the form and method of attaching the emery cloth. The case is most often made of plastic, the working surface of which is covered with a soft material that helps smooth out irregularities.
The simplest grinding pads are easy to make and yourself. A tree is best suited for this. It is desirable to paste over the working surface with a soft material, such as felt.
The simplest construction of the bar is two pieces of a board or chipboard, tightened together with screws. so that the skin fits the bottom piece, and its ends are clamped between the parts.
If you apply a little more effort, then you can make a more functional block, in which the skin will be clamped with a wing nut, which is much faster and more convenient than using screws for this.
For processing large surfaces, if for some reason the power tool is not suitable, it is best to make a grinding plane for yourself. Its possible design is shown in the figure below. It is so simple that it needs no explanation. The dimensions of the device are determined by specific working conditions. the parameters of the processed plane and the physical data of the worker.
For grinding the edges located at an angle strictly 90 ° to the adjacent surface, a device that allows you to provide the desired right angle will be useful. It is depicted schematically, a specific implementation can be any.
One of the main tasks in the manufacture of home-made bars is the reliable fastening of skins to them. In addition to mechanical clamps (using screws, nuts, etc.), in home-made grinding blocks, you can use other methods of attaching sandpaper.
You can just nail it on the ends with small nails. The method is simple to implement, but inconvenient if you often have to change the skin.
An acceptable way to fix sandpaper is to glue it. Glues are suitable for this, making it relatively easy to separate the skin from the base when replacing it.
Sometimes use the fastening of the skin with wedges. In the bar, cuts are made, into which the edges of the skin are tucked and wooden wedges are driven. Saws and wedges can be very different in size.
Drill Accessories and Angle Grinder
Manual grinding requires a lot of effort and time. With a significant amount of grinding work, it is advisable to use a power tool. a drill or an angle grinder, in particular. To turn the latter into a grinding tool, they must be equipped with a suitable grinding nozzle. a support plate or a drum.
Sanding plates. These nozzles are a disk made of plastic or rubber, to which an emery cloth is attached in the form of a circle. Plastic plates have a soft or not very soft layer between the base and Velcro, for better adhesion of the skin to the surface to be treated. Plates for a drill have a shank in the form of a rod, for angle grinders. a thread for screwing them onto the output shaft, an angle grinder. The attachment for grinding on an angle grinder can be turned into a nozzle for a drill by screwing an adapter with a shank into it.
But because of the rigidity of the nozzle for an angle grinder, a strictly vertical arrangement of the drill relative to the plane during grinding is practically impossible. When using a rigid plate (it is easier to work with a flexible one), any slight tilt leads to gnawing the edge of the plate into the workpiece and an attempt to break the drill out of hand, which leads to an increase in the tilt and deeper gnawing of the edge of the circle. This leads to clearly visible recesses on the work surface. Therefore, only grinding attachments capable of compensating for the inclination of the drill are suitable for the drill: either rubber, or with a thick soft layer between the plastic base and Velcro, or having a movable pin mount.
Hard plates are only suitable for use with a fixed drill, for example as shown below.
If you do not find a suitable nozzle on the drill for grinding, and there is a rigid nozzle, then you can make your own hands a thick soft layer between the plastic base and Velcro.
Velcro is carefully cut with a clerical (construction) knife, and as a soft layer a large round sponge is glued to wash the body. When squeezing the sponge during grinding, symmetry may be broken (Velcro with the skin is shifted in some direction), but when the drill rotates (3000 rpm), this is not critical, it may not work with the angle grinder.
Combined nozzles for grinding on a drill are produced, in which the shank can be in two positions relative to the working surface. be rigidly locked with it or have a degree of freedom (unlocked). In the latter case, the working surface of the tool has the ability to adapt to the inclination of the drill, so that the processing is obtained without the formation of recesses. But the price of such devices is close to the price of orbital grinders.
To make the shank movable, a flare nut is twisted (in the photo below with a similar device, it is twisted to the cartridge).
The skin is attached to the plates with Velcro. This method of attachment requires a special sandpaper, on which the corresponding layer of Velcro is applied.
Grinding drums. Grinding drums for a drill are a cylinder with a shank, grinding paper in the form of an endless tape (an emery cloth tape glued together with ends) or an emery strip with free ends is fixed on the cylinder. Unlike the support plate, in which the working surface is perpendicular to the axis of rotation, it is parallel to the drums.
In order for the skin to sit snugly on the drums, the latter have different tension mechanisms. According to the principle of operation, there are two of them. increasing the outer diameter of the drum (used for an endless belt) and tensioning the abrasive belt using a special mechanism (used for open belts). The increase in the diameter of the drums is realized in different ways. by pumping them (in pneumatic models), by compressing in the axial direction (in drums with rubber elements). Different ways can be performed and the tension of the open tape. This is most often done using a rotary screw that pulls the ends of the sandpaper. Below are a few options for drums with different types of skin tension.
A drum for grinding endless belts can be made by placing rubber gaskets between wooden discs. When tightening the axial bolt, the rubber is crushed, expanding in the radial direction and securely fixing the sanding paper worn on the drum.
Drill Grinders. Grinding parts with a plate or drum, holding a drill in your hands, is not as easy as it might seem to someone who himself has never done it. In many cases, a better surface can be achieved by fixing the tool motionless. Especially when processing small parts that are easy to manipulate while holding them in your hands. There are devices for grinding, allowing you to fix the power tool, making it fully or partially stationary.
You can use branded guides for drills, which are designed mainly for drilling, but can be successfully used for grinding. mainly with a drum. There are two ways to work with them. Having fixed the drill in the guide motionless and shifting the workpiece relative to the tool (photo A below), or moving the guides with the drill relative to the workpiece, pressing the bearing surface of the guides to the last (photo B below). In both cases, the inclination of the drum is eliminated, which ensures surface treatment at the desired angle.
You can independently make the simplest grinding device from two boards, allowing you to ensure the angle of the grinding edge with respect to the main surface is exactly 90 °.
Dust removal. When grinding wood, a lot of dust is formed, which not only creates inconvenience, but also harms health when inhaled. Dust must be fought. The easiest way to do this is to vacuum it with a vacuum cleaner by placing the hose closer to the grinding zone.
It is used in two quite different in appearance and function.
This product is a plate with a thread corresponding to the thread of the shaft of an angle grinder, with an adhesive layer (Velcro) applied to its front surface. Velcro is used for attaching interchangeable circles from ordinary sandpaper.
Such a nozzle for polishing wood on angle grinders can be made in several versions:
- Its material may be plastic or rubber. In the first case, a soft foamed polymer layer comes into contact with the paper: a rigid base with a slight skew of the axis of rotation will leave untidy circles on the surface of the workpiece.
- A few holes are often left in the plate to more efficiently cool sandpaper and the surface of the plate. At typical revolutions for an angle grinder (from 10,000 rpm and more), heating an abrasive surface becomes more than a serious problem.
- Finally, the nozzles may vary in diameter. depending on which circle the angle grinder is made under. Typical sizes are 125, 150 and 180 millimeters.
Note: nozzles of this type are more convenient to use with the protective cover removed. The height of the plate allows you to work with it; however, the casing significantly impairs the view of the grinding field. Of course, the presence of goggles during operation is mandatory.
The circles for the respective nozzles, in addition to size, are predictably different in grain size. They can be marked both according to domestic standards, and according to foreign; the latter option is much more common, since most of the abrasive wheels, belts and other grinding devices are imported. (to be precise, in Belgorod) only wide sandpaper is produced in rolls.
Good to know: domestic paper has the letter “H” in the labeling; an increase in the number on the marking indicates an increase in abrasive grain. Exception: “null”, which is designated as M40. Imported sandpaper is marked with the letter "P"; the larger the number, the finer the grain.
To help the reader avoid confusion with the markings, we will bring the domestic and foreign designations into a single table. Grain size increases from top to bottom.