How to cut a professionalist under a larvae. How to install

How to put a lock in a gate from a corrugated board yourself

The slightest mistake, the mistake will affect the appearance of the gate and can ruin it. The implementation of all preliminary manipulations guarantees a greater likelihood of obtaining a soundly looking product. When deciding, carrying out with your own hands, first you need:

  • to study the designs and choose something available or come up with your own (given the terrain and other parameters);
  • determine the size of the frame and make drawings;
  • choose all the necessary materials and tools.

We study the designs

The curtain from the profiled sheet will attract the eyes of with originality, if you make little efforts to select the optimal design. This is a kind of business card of the house and its owner, so you should treat the selection in good faith. There are elements of protective constructions of this type in the form of arches and rectangular. The former look very impressive, but they require special experience and skill, so they are suitable for the performance by a professional. The latter will be able to fulfill a novice craftsman and, when selecting a winning option, will also look with dignity.

The curtains from the profiled sheet are distinguished by the possibility of their installation in fences from completely different materials: grids, bricks and many others. This will not spoil the appearance of the fence at all, but will give it a greater effect. Therefore, it should be said about the universality of corrugated board.

Depending on how many places there are, the location of the structure, the amount of purchased or available material, the optimal design option is selected. It can be made in the form of a simple sash. Doors can be continuous or close the center (from the lower and upper side in this case there are grilles).

A more complex design is possible: with vertically or horizontally located openings. They can close the lattices (manufacturing material. reinforcing rods) in the form of squares or strips.

Gate can contain inserts in their design. Strengthened inserts will help to strengthen the frame and decorate. This will make the design stiff. No less winning options are rectangular contrasting insertion parts.

There are many options for performing frames, but they are selected according to the following requirement: they must be even and gestured. Horizontal jumpers, or lags, and diagonal inserts, or stiffener ribs, allow you to achieve a hard frame. The option of passing the ribs of stiffness throughout the structure or intersection of each segment is possible (the design can be divided by segments using crossbars).

Drawings and dimensions of the frame

One meter is considered a standard width of the gate. Such a structure is optimal for the application and removal of furniture and other items. A wider gate is prone to deformation and a lower service life due to the rapid wear of the loops.

The standard height is from 2 to 2.2 meters. If a similar parameter of the fence canvas is above this parameter, it is recommended to install metal jumpers at the opening site.

In the case of living in the residential building of people about two meters, the installed gate, in the height of more than these parameters, requires reinforced loops and additional strengthening of the frame.

It is possible to perform gates without crossbars (to simplify the task).

The recommended installation site is a concrete foundation, buried below the level at which the soil freezes.

Selection of materials and tools: tips for masters

The sheet for the manufacture of the gate should be galvanized on both sides, it is necessary to have polymer protection from one of them. An external imitation of stone, wood, brick is possible.

Sheets have a marking. To perform work on the installation of gate, modifications with the capital letter “C” in the marking or with two capital “NS” are suitable. It is advisable to cover with sheets with the letter “C” and the numbers 20-21 in the marking. The number after the letter corresponds to the height of the wave in the profile. Installation of sheets is possible both in length and in width. When painting, the use of powder paints or polymers is allowed. Belawers are allowed to paint on both sides. Recommended thickness. from 0.45 to 0.50 mm. In the marked first indicate the height, then the thickness, width, length of the sheets.

Turnie and Skokold

For the manufacture of a turntable, it is enough to have a bar of a small.sized tree. It is nailed to the support of the gate (which is fixed with spinger) with a nail or a bolt (through). The turntable has a rotary mechanism.

Skokold fell in love with universality and reliability. It is attached to the frame, the door itself or the canvas. Sometimes it is mounted at the place of opening the gate from the courtyard (it is not striking, as hidden as possible).

We make a cheek

  • It is necessary to fix the pipe in the ground (0.5 m length).
  • Make marking the future location of fasteners, mechanism.
  • On the gate canvas, above the pipe, we fix the cable or rod with a through hole (for twine).
  • We stretch the cable into a suitable comfortable place. When its tension occurs (pressing it), the latch rises, and the gate opens. In the latching shutter, the main thing is to process it in time from the influence of the external environment (frost, rain, sun).

We make a bracket bracket

The installation of the capture with a hook will not deliver the hassle. It is built like this:

  • We need metizes that we buy or make ourselves from wire (up to 5 mm).
  • We independently process the wire with fire, holding it with pliers. We achieve full intensity (red burning color) in the place of the future bend.
  • We take another plowmen, form a hook by bending of a twig.
  • Turn with fire again.
  • Quickly dip in cold water.
  • Re.process the flame of the hook.
  • We bend the working part to the desired angle.
  • The final processing of the part of the fire followed by the room in cool water.
  • Thus, you can make any detail for the future latch (bracket, hook).
  • It remains only to attach them to the gate canvas (usually with nails).

We process metal products with a special composition from corrosion (if they are not galvanized).

Is it possible to cut corrugated board with “corner grinding”?

The profileist is strictly forbidden to cut this tool for three reasons:

  • Spectacular sparks that fly out from under the disk during work harm the decorative-protective layer. They fall on a polymer coating, burn it and zinc. In places where sparks got, corrosion may appear.
  • The abrasive disk saws a professionalist due to friction. As a result, the metal heats up, under the influence of high temperatures, the polymer and zinc coating along the edges are burned out, which leads to the occurrence of bromatic corrosion.
  • The abrasive disk leaves the “torn” edges.

So: “Corner grinding” can be quickly cut, but it will become unsuitable for use. Therefore, the answer to the question “How to cut corrugated board“ corner grinding ”” is simple: in no way.

Whether the cutting of corrugated wood is permissible with a disk saw?

Cutting corrugated board using a disk saw, even if you use a diamond disk with small teeth, is not the best option. This tool cuts metal due to heating; The disk melts the edges, and with them. zinc and polymer coating. Thus, the edges of the sheet are again unprotected from corrosion.

There are no sparks in the process of cutting, which burn polymer and zinc coatings. But due to aggressive effects on the edges of the sheet, we do not recommend using this tool.

Is it possible to use an electric jigsaw for cutting a profiled sheet?

Yes, this is one of the most popular options, especially an electrician with a laser pointer. this tool can quickly cut a sheet without getting down from markings.

In what cases do they use?

When you need to get a curly or straight section on one or more sheets of corrugated board up to 21 mm high. To cut a pack of sheets, this tool is not used. the jigsaw may fail.

An electric jigsaw is often used for cutting a profiled sheet because:

  • Almost everyone has it, it does not need to be additionally purchased.
  • It is easy for them to work, this does not require special skills.
  • With the help of an electrician, you can cut corrugated board at any angle.

This tool is suitable only for a profiled sheet up to 21 mm high (not higher than the S-21). If you have chosen material with higher corrugations, it is better not to use an electrician: it will tear the metal. Also, he does not have enough blade length for cutting corrugated board with high waves. On the functionality of the tool, working with such a material will also not affect the best way. it may break.

When working with an electrician, there is a possibility of overheating of the metal. To avoid this, follow our tips:

  • Control the power of the jigsaw. It is not necessary to turn on the tool at full power, otherwise you run the risk of overheating of the metal and burn the polymer and zinc coating.
  • Periodically drip on the blade oil (any). This will help reduce friction, which means that the metal will heat less.

Attention: In the process of cutting a profiled sheet, a small metal shavings forms. It must be quickly removed with soft fabric (do not use an abrasive brush for this! You can damage the polymer coating). Otherwise, the remaining metal pieces on the surface can begin to rust and spread corrosion around.

Which is better to put?

Most often, a mortise lock is chosen for thin metal gates. To put a private territory under reliable protection, you need to carefully choose the appropriate option, given the width of the door passage, the depth of the body and the width of the front plate of the lock. The castle adapted on the outer part of the gate will be operated at different temperatures and at high humidity, therefore it must correspond to a number of criteria:

The open type of structure will quickly break due to dust and natural precipitation. A large.sized castle is not suitable for installation on thin metal, since when erecting such a fence, profile pipes with a small diameter are used.

Massive locks are more suitable for heavy metal gates.

It is best for temperature changes, with increased damp and dustiness, legged mechanisms work. But even the most high.quality and expensive castle has a chance to freeze when moisture enters the larva in conditions of low temperature regime. In order not to get difficulties with passing to their territory, it is recommended to install devices with a pen from the inside, which unlock without using the key.

There is no need for multilevel protection against hacking in relation to door locks from corrugated board at the summer cottage. Similar costs are useless. If someone thinks to get into your yard, then the castle will probably not touch, but will find a different way to get into the territory.

Electromechanical or electromagnetic devices are installed on thin doors from corrugated board if the input structure obliges. And more elementary modifications can be a mortise type or overhead. The installation of these mechanisms is very different.

The easiest is the easement of the patch.

For each locking mechanism, a security class is determined, which provides for the level of protection against hacking. Determine 4 degrees of reliability.

  • This category includes locks that are not difficult for someone who has criminal intentions. An experienced thief will cope with this castle in a few minutes.
  • On the opening of such a device, an inexperienced thief will spend some time. The seasoned robber will easily open this castle. According to experts, on a hacking device of this class, the thief will take no more than 10 minutes.
  • Court mechanisms with a reliable degree of protection. They will not be able to open faster than 20 minutes.
  • The most reliable of the existing. According to manufacturers for hacking, it will take about half an hour. This time is enough for employees of the security service or law enforcement agencies at the place of commission of the crime.

It is better to choose locks on the input parts of external fences in specialized stores.

The help of a consultant will help to decide on the most convenient modification.

DIY installation

After the desired castle is purchased, you will need to install. This requires the following inventory:

  • fasteners;
  • The angle grinding device is an angular grinder;
  • electric drill;
  • metal drill;
  • simple pencil;
  • screwdriver.

If the lock is to be installed on the input part of the hollow structure, you can start the process with the marking of the area for the mortise lock in the end part of the gate. Cut the suitable size niche, drill grooves for bolts in the canvas, and also make holes for the arrangement of the handle. This is where the preparatory stage is considered completed.


To hang such a castle, in addition to the listed on the list, you will need to prepare 2 corner eyes, bolts and nuts. The installation process provides for the following stages of action.

  • A place for installing the eyeballs is selected. They must be attached in one line, but at a short distance, to exclude interference during the gate shutter and difficulties when mounting the lock.
  • Fastenger elements are applied to the canvas for a visual mark of holes.
  • Drill holes using the drills of the desired diameter, based on the size of the fasteners.
  • Eyelets are fixed on a metal profile.


The situation with the installation of such a castle is a little more complicated. The patch lock is attached to the swing doors from the corrugated board in such a sequence.

  • The locking device is leaning against the gate from the courtyard so that one of the mounting grooves goes to the transverse bar, and the handle with the larva is slightly higher (below).
  • Holes for bolts are marked and a groove for a crossbar is made. If the pillar next to the gate is round in configuration or small diameter, you will have to weld the plate on top for the return part of the lock.
  • Fasteners are made in the frame of the gates, and turnkey and handle grooves are cut in the profile (when planning). Then a hollow under the crossbar is cut out in the support element.
  • The device is fixed with overlays and handles.

Когда на поперечине не удается уместить замок, его ставят на дополнительно приваренную металлическую пластину.


It is more difficult to put up such a lock, but it is quite possible if you act as follows.

  • On the frame you need to mark the location of the future device.
  • Using a corner grinder in the pipe make a hole.
  • Lean the lock and set the zones for fasteners, then drill them out. Insert the mechanism.
  • In the profiled sheet, make a key hole.
  • The response bar for the castle must be placed on the pole-point correctly. The level of its location is determined.

The frame can be executed from different material, which determines the procedure for installing the bar.

  • Narrow metal. 3 mm thickness plate is welded to the support, then the grooves for the crossbar are drilled in it.
  • The pipe is larger. The hole is drilled at the place of contact of the crossbar with the support pillar.
  • Metal corner. If he has a wide part, then the slot is made in it. On a narrow element, it is necessary to build a metal plate with pre.made holes for the fastening of the fasteners.

For a longer service of installed locks, you need to adhere to some recommendations:

  • From time to time, testing the device for possible malfunctions: when identifying them, it is not worth it to postpone the repair, it is important to immediately determine the cause;
  • It is advisable to build a visor over the locking mechanism, which will protect the castle from contact with precipitation;
  • The operation of the mechanism must be checked every year before the winter season and after it, if necessary, perform the lubrication of the latch and the core.

Proper installation and operation of a locking device is a key to a long period of its service.

If there is no certainty that it will be possible to cut or fix the lock on your own, it is better to entrust this business to professionals.

Features of the finish

Now it is required to finish the space around the pipe from the outside. It is important to close the gaps correctly between the corrugated board so that various kinds of atmospheric precipitation does not get there. To do this, you can sheathe space with a galvanized metal or stainless steel.

This design is a base of a flat sheet, to which a cone is attached with a cut vertex. It is put on a chimney, after which it is sealed, and the base is fixed on the roof covering. This allows you to get a high.quality and reliable node, which will be reliably protected for decades.

It should be added that there are alternative solutions to the decoration of this area using a steel apron or apron that are made of rubber. In addition, a new word has been used recently in this matter. a foil tape of a self.adhesive type, which is made of modified bitumen. This material is equipped with a bitumen layer, which is a self.adhesive. In turn, it has a silicone film, which should be removed before gluing. And the upper layer of foil type perfectly protects the tape from heating and the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation.

professionalist, install

Than and how to stacket?

Now you need to close the gap between the pipe and the roof from the corrugated board. This can be achieved by sealing this area. Let’s try to figure out how to do this in different cases. If there is a adjacent to a brick pipe, then the whole process is divided into 2 stages:

First, the roof is prepared. To do this, waterproofing should be started on the pipe and fixed. Often this is done in the bath. There should not be cracks here so that condensation does not get inside.

On top and below the pipe must be installed on the docks. This avoids the fact that the apron will be hanging. Now everything needs to be cleaned and degreased.

After that, an apron is either mounted with the subsequent sealing of the joints of the additional type of parts, or folding is carried out. In the first version, the installation begins by trying on the lower adjacent plank to the pipe. Potis-cornering corners are noted here, after which you should retreat from them 20-30 millimeters and make a piece of a piece of the upper shoulder of the part of the good. Where the corner is bent, the incision is made and the bar is bent for cladding. Now, a self.adhesive tape based on Butil is applied along the length of the roof, and the seal is placed on top so that dirt does not accumulate under the apron, and sealing is carried out.

The joint between the pipe and the roof is closed by the adjacent bar. Since the work takes place with a corrugated board, the consolidation is carried out using roofing screws with a gasket from an EPDM response. Self.tapping screws are screwed perpendicular to the sheet on top of all waves. From the sides of the bar are attached about the same. They are cut through the dimensions of the pipes, bend, but mounted only on a sealant and butyl tape. Yes, and the sealant is applied only to the bottom of the apron to cover only the fishing line for the trimmer of the scheduled joint. The step between self.tapping screws when attaching these planks cannot be more than 150 millimeters.

The width of the lower part of a solid element should be at least 450 millimeters with a 15-degree slope of the roof. On roofs with great rugged, the upper apron part should have a large width. It is required to smear with sealant the entire planned joint with a roof, including the bottom and sides.

Where the supporting sheet of adjacency is located under the upper sheet of the bar of the bar, which is attached with self.tapping screws with a flat type. So the fasteners will not interfere with the laying of roofing. Where part will be open, the bar can be attached using ordinary screws.

A sheet of corrugation can be laid on the top of the adjacence, which should be brought under the horse.

Before laying on the even surface of the lower shoulder, it is necessary to stick a tape-mackerel, and then the seal is glued to it and the sealing composition is applied. The roofing material here will be attached similarly to other places.

How to sheathe a wooden house profiled line: simple tips

It happens that the owners are annoying to see the mostly wooden walls of their own house. They are looking for modern material that would be at the same time inexpensive and beautiful so that the appearance of the house is transformed. There is such material. these are corrugated board. But how to sheathe a wooden house with a profiled house with your own hands? What to look for? We will analyze these questions in the article.

Before sheathing a wooden house by a profiled sheet, you need to understand the strengths and weaknesses of this material.

professionalist, install
  • Price. Today the profile is one of the most affordable solutions in the building materials market.
  • Quality. If you purchase a professionalist from trusted companies, then there are usually no complaints about quality. For the facade, as a rule, a profile of 0.5 mm thick is taken.
  • Simplicity of installation. It’s quite easy to work with a profiled sheet. Even an unprepared person will be able to sheathe a wooden house by a profiled sheet, following the advice of builders.
  • Fire safety. Manufacturers make a professionalist with the combustibility class “NG”. At least this is true for the products of the company “Metal Profile”.
  • Life time. Conscientious manufacturers protect the profile for several layers: galvanizing, passivation, soil and polymer coating. Therefore, products serve for a long time and do not rust.
  • Variability. The palette of the flower of profiled sheet is extremely great: from glossy and matte to imitations of wood and stone.
  • Simplicity of service. The profile should not be processed with any impregnations or even tinted.
  • Noisiness. The sound of drumming rain or hail can bother the owners. But this can be fought with thermal insulation and high.quality double.glazed windows.
  • Sailing. An incorrectly fixed profile can tear off the wind, like any other material. It is also important to use high.quality screws. We analyzed them in a separate article.
  • Rust. If you cut the profile incorrectly, he can rust. For example, if cut it with a corner grinder, then the protective layers will simply burn.

The letters in the name of a profiled sheet have a greater meaning than just a name. Thanks to them, the products are divided into several groups:

Of the whole variety of profiled sheets, professional builders recommend sheathing a wooden house as follows: S-21, S-44, MP-10, MP-18, MP-20, MP-35, NS-35.

This is not a strict rule, and you can use any professionalist-at least N-75. But remember: such products are needed for other purposes. They are not too beautiful and are more expensive, since their production takes more steel.

We sheathe a wooden house profiled sheet

Builders advise sheathing a wooden house for three stages:

over, it is recommended to use the technology of the insulated ventilated facade. The walls will “breathe” with her, condensate will not form on them, and the insulation will save on heating. In addition, if the house is a new, ventilated facade remains whole when shrink.

If you just fasten the profile directly to the tree (and some poorly knowledgeable people do it), then the walls will not be protected from dampness. The tree will begin to rot.

Therefore, we sheathe a wooden house by a profiled line precisely according to the system of the ventilated facade.

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The first stage is the preparation of walls

First of all, builders advise to check the wooden walls. It is necessary to check manually. in the literal sense of the word. Rotten places are usually soft. they must be opened and replaced. In particularly severe cases, you will have to replace whole logs or timber, possibly even on a crown.

Rot and mold must be cleaned with the upper layer of wood, and then treated with a special antiseptic of deep penetration. There are special unexplored ground antiseptics. you can take them. In addition, so that the beetles do not eat your walls, builders also advise using insecticidal impregnations.

Slots and cracks also need to be close. Use new sealing materials for large cracks. Cracks can be treated with sealant so that moisture does not get there.

All this preparation is needed so that the walls do not rot under the corrugated board. After all, behind the cladding, you will no longer see either the fungus or the rotten place.

The second stage is the installation of the development

For wooden houses, builders are usually used vertical or horizontal. There is almost no insufficient density of walls in wooden houses: even the walls of an ordinary pine must dry half so that their density becomes less than 600 kg/m3. So, or inter.story reconstruction is simply not needed.

IMPORTANT: If the development is horizontal, then the profile must be attached to it vertically. If the development is vertical. the profile on it will be located horizontally.

The installation of the reconstruction usually occurs as follows:

  • Marking. Using levels and roulette, mark the points where you will drill holes under the bracket. Do not make big deviations: 50-60 cm will be enough.
  • Installation of gaskets. Under the brackets you can glue insolon gaskets so that there are no cold bridges. Although this is not necessary, since they will be weak due to reduced thermal conductivity of wood.
  • Installation of brackets. Attach the brackets to previously marked places. you can use conventional wood screws. If you decide to use a horizontal development, mount the brackets horizontally, if the reconstruction is vertical, then vertically.
  • Installation of thermal insulation. Cut and install the insulation close to the wall, between the brackets, so that they stick out. Perhaps you will have to use the extension cords of the brackets. Fasten thermal insulation to the wall on plate dowels. But you can install it simply by display by fixing it with horizontal strips so that it does not move.
  • Installation of waterproofing. The hydraulic protection membrane is cut off the size of a slightly larger wall. Wipe it parallel to the ground and fix it with plastered dowels. Look for an overlap. it should be at least 10 cm.
  • Installation of guides. For a horizontal and vertical reconstruction, a G-shaped profile will be enough. Attach it to the brackets to self.tapping screws.

Important: be sure to leave a gap of at least 50 mm between thermal insulation and cladding. This is necessary so that the wall is ventilated.

The third stage is the installation of a profiled sheet

The most difficult thing behind. It remains only to sheathe the house by a professionalist. The required amount of material should calculate you at the order stage. Conscientious companies ask for a project of your home and they themselves calculate how many materials you need.

  • Fasten a special bar to the base-it is fixed with self-tapping screws with an EPDM laying.
  • Cut the corrugated board of the desired size and figure. To do this, take the shooting scissors, but do not use the corner grinder, otherwise it will burn out zinc and the material will rust.
  • Fix the sheets on the guides using self-tapping screws with EPDM tabs. Install the sheets from the bottom up and with a minimum overlap in one wave.
  • Mount the additional elements at the corners, castings, window and doorways.

Sometimes the pediment requires special attention if it is separated from the facade of the house by constructive elements. But there is nothing wrong with: the constructive element is closed by the bar, and on the pediment itself, the crate is in the same way.

If you are afraid that you will be crookedly sheathed with a profiled sheet, you can first practice on a wall that is not visible from the street.

As you understand, sheathe a wooden house with a corrugated board with your own hands is quite simple. It is only necessary to process the walls, establish the development and screw on it the profile himself. Follow the advice of experienced builders and buy only high.quality materials. then your house will delight you with an excellent appearance for many years!

Stages of installation

The lining of the pediment by the corrugated board consists of several steps. We will consider each of them separately:

First you need to decide on the brand of corrugated board. As a rule, for the installation of pediments from a profiled sheet, a wall profile is taken. When ordering online, you can distinguish it by marking. The letter “C” in the name means wall.

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Each type of corrugated board has its own useful sheet width. this parameter needs to be known for calculation.

For vertical installation, the width of the pediment wall should be divided into width of the panels. The result is rounded up.

The working width of the profiled sheet S-8-1150 mm, the length of the pediment is 10 m. 10,000 mm: 1150 mm = 8.69. Witch and get 9 sheets.

To understand how long they should be, we recommend that you make a project on a scale. Draw a pediment’s diagram, distribute the sheets on it, given the size of the overlap in one wave or 10-15 cm (if there are joints on the short side of the profiled sheet), the presence of windows and so on.

If you want to mount a professionalist horizontally, then divide not the width, but the height of the wall into the working width of the sheets.

To accurately calculate the consumption of a profiled sheet or insulation for the skin of the pediment and reduce the amount of waste, you need to know the surface area. Most often, a pediment is in the form of a triangle or trapezoid, depending on the type of roof. Under the gable roof, the pediment is likely to be an isosceles triangle. Under a single.shoe. rectangular triangle, under the attic. trapezoid. Further, you can easily calculate the areas of these figures, using known geometric formulas.

Example of the length of the pediment. 10 m, height. 3 m. 5 3 = 15 m 2.

Example, the length of the base of the pediment (A) is 10 m, the length of the upper boundary (b) is 8 m. Height. 3 m. (108)/2 3 = 27 m 2.

Installation of the crate

Installation of a pediment from a profiled sheet is actually the arrangement of a ventilated facade. The gap between the corrugated board and the wall or insulation allows the air to circulate freely under the skin. This significantly extends the lifetime of the entire structure.

For the frame, you can use lumber or steel profiles.

But we recommend that the metal version of the frame is mounted, since it is more reliable, does not burn, does not rot, does not dry out. We will talk about him further.

Before you start making a frame on a pediment for corrugated board, delete all temporary elements (antennas, finishes). If there are damaged areas. repair and restore the surface. Then, with the help of a building level and a plumb line, make sure that the wall is quite flat. Having discovered distortions, consider them to level the brackets when installing the crate.

Installation of brackets

First of all, the brackets should be installed on the pediment. The step between them should be at least 40 cm. Usually withstand 50-60 cm. For the first row, leave the indentation from the edge of the pediment 10 cm. The brackets are attached to the wooden wall with self.tapping screws, with the brick and foam concrete walls with dowels.

Laying heat and waterproofing

If the attic of your house is cold, then the pediment is not necessary to insulate. For a residential attic, it is imperative to do thermal insulation. It is better for her to use slab insulation. mineral wool. Install the slabs from the bottom up, planting them directly onto the brackets. Fix thermal insulation with dowels-gearboxes, spending an average of 6-8 pieces per stove.

After that, a hydraulic protection membrane is laid on the insulation. It is more convenient to roll it horizontally, also. from the bottom up, with an overlap between rows of 150 mm. Keep in mind that the waterproofing is also necessary.

Installation of guide profiles

Lastly, we mount the guides themselves. We attach them to the brackets with stainless rivets of 4.8×10. two per connection.

The sheathing of the pediment by a profiled sheet

We proceed to the final step. the installation of profiled sheets. Pay attention to a number of nuances that should be taken into account in the work.

  • Cutting corrugated board for the pediment is not produced by corner grinding. Use the metal scissors for this, an electrician or appropriate nozzle for a drill.
  • Some of the additional elements for the pediment are installed before the installation of corrugated board. If the pediment is separated from the main facade of the tint. along it we put a metal bar to protect against precipitation. If you plan to use the docking triggers, complex or universal, they must also be installed before facing.
  • Take roofing screws with a painted head, drill and a rubber gasket as a fastener. Metiza with a press shame will not work, since the compounds will not be quite sealed.
  • Self.tapping screws need to be in a wave of waves, clearly at right angles, not too much, but not weak.
  • We make fastening to the crate through two waves. In places of horizontal overlap. through one.
  • Having completed the sheathing of the pediment to the house by the corrugated board, carefully inspect it. Remain enamel immediately process all the places of scratches and scuffs. This will protect the material from corrosion.

As you can see, to arrange a pediment at home with a corrugated board is a feasible task, even for someone who does not often build something with his own hands. It is important to accurately calculate the volume of materials and carefully mount them in the correct order. Do not forget about security! The lining of the pediment is best done in dry calm weather, using building forests and insurance.

We get to work

First of all, we marry the profound: put the marks along the entire length of the sheet at the same distance from each other. We set them up a flat rail (you can use the construction level).

Next, put the knife to the guide rail. We lead it along the rail slowly, but with the maximum possible press. But the main thing is not to overdo it, otherwise you can get an injury.

Cut through the same place at least 4-5 times.

And it is important to manage to notice when the blade does not “bite” into the metal. In this case, we break off the blower part of the blade, and continue to work.

Please note: this method of cutting a profiled sheet is possible only when cutting along. If you need to cut off the sheet along the waves, then nothing will work out.

Cut the profile for the entire thickness there is no need.

First, it will take a lot of time. Secondly, you can not cut the metal completely if the thickness of the profiled sheet is more than 0.4 mm.

After the profile is cut through the entire length, we turn it over the wrong side up, after laying the rag before not scratching the paintwork. Then you just need to break off an unnecessary piece. It is easy to do this.

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As a result, the cut will turn out not only even throughout the length, but also without burrs and burned paint. And no specification is needed!

How to cut corrugated board. so as not to spoil the material

Corrugated board. building material used to arrange a roof, facades, fences, etc. P. Its main advantage is simple processing. Since the profiled sheet has a slight weight and thickness, the fitting is carried out directly at the facility. For cutting a profiled sheet, it is enough to choose a simple hand tool and know the features of the technology. In the article, the master plumber will tell you how to cut the corrugated board, what tools are used for this and how to process the cut to avoid corrosion.

Corrugated board is a tin sheet with a special profile. Features of the cutting process are due to the presence of a special coating that should not be damaged when cutting.

The protective polymer coating of corrugated board is not heat.resistant, that is, it does not withstand high.temperature exposure, and therefore cold methods of cutting are preferred. It is forbidden to use high.temperature methods of cutting (gas), since the sheet coating will immediately deteriorate, despite the initial factory protection methods.

Among the common tools suitable for the operation:

  • corner grinder, corner grinding machine;
  • Electric knife habits for metal;
  • Nozzle for electric screwdriver or drill;
  • Scissors for metal and electric scissors;
  • Lobby. manual or electric;
  • Electric circular saw.

An electric corner grinder is often used in construction, since it can be processed or cut as possible as quickly as possible. The device is also quite easy to operate, and the speed of processing surfaces is its main advantage.

But, it is worth noting that when cutting the profile of a corner grinder, specialists distinguish many minuses from using the tool.

  • The metal particles during operation spoil the coating, burning it. If after cutting is not processed with a protective coating, then corrosion is formed in these places.
  • After processing the corrugated board, uneven edges remain, so you will have to additionally remove the burrs from the surface.

To avoid such difficulties, you need to select special discs for cutting corrugated board and timely cover the sheet of the sheet with protective colors.

In order to correctly cut corrugated board, it is necessary to select a disk that will preserve the protective properties of the coating as much as possible and will not spoil the overall appearance of the building material.

As already mentioned, an angular grinder with an ordinary abrasive and extremely rude circle cannot be used to cut corrugated board, since it greatly spoils the coating that have formed in the process of sparks, which will certainly lead to rusty.

Therefore, this tool can be used if you buy a specially adapted disk for cutting corrugated board. This is a very thin working circle (its thickness is less than 1.6 mm). Teeth should be made of carbide materials.

note! After cutting the material, it is necessary to cover corrosive corrosion with special protective paint in order to avoid corrosion formation

Some home craftsmen, in order to save time, prefer to cut a whole pack of corporate grinding corner grinder, putting a diamond disk on the tool. But experts do not recommend doing such things, since there is a risk of ruining the metal with the slightest displacement of sheets.

  • The formation of torn edges cannot be avoided (additional alignment or closing of the “inaccurate side” of corrugated board will be required by another sheet).
  • Light noise from corner grinder.
  • Even in the presence of a correct detachment circle, the protective surface will be damaged under the influence of sparks.

In resolving the issue of how to cut corrugated board, the choice of hacksaw for metal is considered almost the best option, since the structure of the protective coating is practically not violated. It is important that the material does not resist cutting, so even manual operations are carried out at high speed. In addition, in this case there is no thermal effect, so that the coating is completely preserved.

For the convenience of cutting, a special table or supporting surface will be required.

Nozzle for electric screwdriver or drill for cutting corrugated board

Professional roofers often use special nozzles for cutting corrugated board on a drill or electric screwdriver to quickly and carefully process the surface.

But to carry out such work, it is necessary to have certain skills. The nozzle will be convenient to use if you need to cut off the corrugated board in places.

If it is necessary to cut off thin stripes, the scissors for metal are an indispensable tool.

Scissors. the most preferred option for processing corrugated board. When cutting off parts of the metal, sparks are not formed, and therefore damage to the protective coating is minimal.

If the cutting edges are perfectly sharpened, then they will be able to cope with the rez across the wave. But along the scissors they are not cut very well. the structure of the material is such that in this direction it has the greatest flexibility. In addition, in the process, not too flat edges are formed. Even electric wizards do not make the edge perfectly even.

Hand tool

For cutting short sheets of corrugated board, a hacksaw for metal and a hand jigs are used, whose relief height is not more than 25 mm. The sheet coating during cutting falls under less destruction, compared with the corner grinder. The edges of the cut are even, without zazubin. Special physical efforts do not need to be used. The disadvantage is that it is difficult to make curved cutouts, and a special table is needed to cut the sheet.

The sheets are cut with a jigsaw along and down at high speeds using a fine.tooth saw. So that the sheet does not vibrate, it must be pressed.

The jigsaw is used when finalizing complex lines in geometry after the operation of power tools. Of the minuses. cutting thin stripes with a jigsaw will be extremely inconvenient.

Little common, but comfortable scissors for cutting metal. The sheets of corrugated board are cut relatively quickly and without the use of special efforts, but the edges can be with Zazubins. This is not so scary, since the profile can then be closed with the next sheet.

Attention! In general, hand tools are convenient for small work. For example, installation of a fence. They are not as fast as electrical appliances, however, retain the protective layer.

Corrosion’s edges from corrosion

Regardless of which tool was selected, the cut place will be damaged. Additional protection of the edges of profileists from corrosion will extend their service life.

Mostly places of drilling and incision are resistant to corrosion, even if there is completely no protective coating. Zinc molecules near the section create a barrier, which prevents the oxidation of the sheet.

But this does not apply to the section of the metal with a corner grinder or a manual circular.

The metal is most susceptible to the influence of harmful external and chemical factors, therefore it is rapidly destroyed (rust). To extend the service life at the edge of the incision, anti.corrosion and moisture.resistant drugs are applied manually, and then covered with factory paint, which should be attached, or a spray can of paint selected by color.

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Given the information provided, everyone will be able to decide on their own, what is best cutting a profile flooring. It is important to remember that the speed of work, the durability of the material and its aesthetic appearance depend on the choice of the correct tool.