How to cut the edge of the PVC milling mill. Recommendations

The possibilities of a hand cutter, features of working with him

A manual milling cutter is one of the tools that are simply required to be in the arsenal of a home master. In the presence of various nozzles, the milling cutter is able to perform a wide variety of tasks: with its help you can make a groove, select a groove in a tree, process the edge of the product from wood, make elements of connecting parts and much more. About how the most common operations are performed, we will tell in this article.

The groove is a recess limited by planes or shaped surfaces. This element can be of various shapes-rectangular, triangular, trapezoidal, T-shaped and shaped. Also distinguish between through, closed and half.closed grooves.

• Direct. The most common type that can be used to perform a wide variety of works. Such equipment is performed by an even rectangular groove in a tree.
• Fighting. Form a semicircular groove, can be used to create grooves in products.
• V-shaped. Create a groove with angles of 45 degrees. Used mainly for cutting on the details of the ornament or letters. They can make a drawing on a wooden surface.
• Shipy (“Lastochkin tail”). Designed for the manufacture of hidden and open spike joints. Found widespread in furniture production.

The ledge is a recess limited by two mutually perpendicular areas. For the manufacture of this element, terminal, disk or end mills can be used. The principle of operation here is similar to the sample of the grooves.

Milling and processing of edges

The edge of the edge is performed in the manufacture of most wooden blanks: in some cases, only the rounding of the angles is necessary in others. giving the entire product an unusual shape. For processing edges are used:

Conical cutters. Grind the corner angle under 45 degrees.

Kamping mills. Their main purpose is the rounding of the edges, they form a profile in a quarter of a circle. Processing the edge of this type with a milling cutter allows you to give products beautiful smooth outlines. The assortment of the fluid cutters is quite extensive, the radius of the circle varies from 3.2 to 16 mm.

Fourth mills. They not only round the corner, but also form small grooves above and under roundness. As a rule, this type is used in the manufacture of window frames.

Profile (decorative) mills. Cut profiles on the edge, form a smooth curved surface. Used mainly to create decorative elements.

Fighting mills. Used to create an internal quarter groove in a tree.

Gained widespread in the manufacture of decorative edges of products, including furniture.

What is it and why is it necessary?

Laminated laminated wood-brown slab is the hiding of the end parts of the plate by gluing a special decorative strip or edge on them, which can be selected as a color of the main surface and differs from it. In addition to creating an elegant appearance, the edge of the laminated wood-brown plate also eliminates a number of other, no less important problems.

• Protects the inside of the slab from moisture exposure. After getting wet, the laminated wood-brown plate can swell and lose its original shape, become a breakdown, which will subsequently lead to stratum stratification and scattering. The edge does not allow moisture penetration from unprotected end edges. This is especially important for raw rooms: kitchen, bathroom, pantry, basement.
• Prevents the propagation in the plate of harmful insects or mold. Due to its porous structure, the wood-brown slab is a favorable place for the propagation of various microorganisms, which over time destroy it from the inside. The edge does not allow insect penetration, thereby prolongs the service life of the plate.
• Protects against the evaporation of harmful binders that are inside the product. In the manufacture of wood and combustion plates, manufacturers use various synthetic formaldehyde resins. During the operation of furniture, these substances can stand out and fall into the environment, which extremely negatively affects human health. The only brown tape holds the resin inside, preventing them from evaporating.

All furniture manufacturers, as a rule, perform an assignment of only visible end parts of the structure. This action is primarily explained by their desire to save money, but for the final consumer this will eventually turn into damage to the product, the need to repair or purchase new furniture.

Therefore, the edge of the wood-based plates is recommended not only with independent assembly of new structures, but also immediately after the acquisition of finished furniture.

Necessary tools and materials

To close the stove with your own hands, you can use different decorative elements that differ in quality and manufacturing material, appearance, as well as cost. The choice will depend on the preferences and financial capabilities of the owner. But at home, two types of decorative strips are most often used.

• Melamine edge is the simplest and most budget option. It is used to process inexpensive products and furniture structures. The main advantage of such material is the convenience of gluing and affordable cost. Of the shortcomings, only a low service life can be noted, since Melamin is quickly destroyed from moisture or mechanical damage. Therefore, it is not recommended to stick it on furniture structures in children’s rooms or kitchens. The melamine tape is perfect for hallways, corridors, when assembling auxiliary structures, such as shelves or mezzanines.
• PVC edge is more difficult to apply at home, as it provides for the use of additional special tools. However, the product has higher strength, reliability and durability. The thickness of the bromic PVC tape can be from 0.2 to 4 mm, depending on the type and model. The edge of the PVC effectively protects the ends of the structure from chips, blows and other mechanical damage.

It is advisable to glue a thick PVC tape on the front parts of the structure, because they are more susceptible to mechanical influences. For hidden ends will be a sufficiently thin edge, because there it will be necessary only to protect against moisture and insects. In general, the thickness of such a tape is selected individually in size. For proper gluing the protective edges, such tools and devices will be needed:

• household iron:
• metal ruler;
• fine.grained sandpaper;
• a large stationery knife or bromores;
• felt fabric;
• scissors.

To apply the edges from the PVC, a construction hairdryer may also be needed, this will depend on the choice of material. there are tapes with adhesive substances already applied and without it. Edges with factory glue, or, as it is also called, glue, you will need to warm up so that it softens and reacts with a rough wood-bearing surface.

Croming 2 mm edge using a hairdryer

Two millimeter PVC of the edge, in my opinion, the best solution for predication is a laminated wood-based slab. It is the most durable and looks more “rich” than 0.4, there is nothing to say about Melamin. It would be my will, I would all the details of Kromil “Knowry”, but the price for it bites, especially if you order an assignment in the workshop.

Therefore, I try to glue it on my own, especially since today you can purchase an edge in stores with a glue already applied to it. Such a manipulation makes it most expensive for a linear meter. a penny.

So, for gluing 2 mm PVC, we need the edges with glue-melting. Thermal pistol (construction hairdryer), milling cutter (or brown milling cutter), hacksaw cloth, metal ruler.

Traditionally we fix the workpiece vertically, preferably on a workbench or, at least, a stool).

We measure out the length of the edge, cut off the necessary piece, apply it to the workpiece and, warming the glue with a hairdryer, press it to the end of the part. We carefully iron it with your hand (some masters use for this a bar, inhabited by felt, or customs rollers). You need to work on gloves, otherwise it is easy to burn your hands.

On the radii, the edge must first be warmed up so that it softens. then it will fall much smoother. Having glued all the turned off, we saw off the overhangs from the ends with a simple hacksaw cloth.

We go to overhangs from the sides. To remove them, we need a milling mill. Ideally, a special bromary, but for non.ribs I use the universal milling mill Ryobi. It is quite massive and inconvenient for such work, but the result is quite satisfactory. Cylindrical cutter with bearing. It is advisable to use parallel emphasis (in the article gluing the edges with your own hands, this moment is described too difficult. everything should be clear in the photo).

On the radii you must be careful, t.to. the base “fails” and you have to work a canopy. there is a high risk of cutting the laminate.

I try to make the cutter knives leave about 0.1-0.2 mm of the outskirts of an unsubstantial-t.e. do not reach the edge of the workpiece for this distance. This measure protects against surface damage during careless movement, but requires additional steps later.

Removing this residue is made by a metal ruler in the same way as melamine.

After the final removal of the overhangs, the edges of the edge are sharp. our task is to smooth them out. This is done using the same line. Turning it at an angle we squeeze the sharp edge, twisting it, and removing the irregularities of milling. We work carefully at the junction of the edge of the laminate to avoid damage.

Thus, we smell both sharp edges along the entire length, at the same time we remove the excess glue that protrudes from under the joint. In the end, we get the following:

Of course, it is better to use a specialized bromatic milling mill for this, such as this. Working with it is much more convenient: they use a kamovaya milling mill, so you do not need to modify the edge later, they are much smaller in size, which means that they can be controlled with one hand.

But the cost of this device, as a rule, exceeds 5,000 r, so I made a grumber with my own hands from my 800 Watt Minor milling cutter. It turned out like this:

Brown milling cutter from Raitool or “after assembly, process a file with a file

The milling cutter is definitely difficult to attribute to the popular group of tools, unlike a drill, a pen, an electric screwdriver, but nevertheless, in some situations this tool can help out strongly. I can’t say that I consider myself at least some kind of specialist in terms of working with milling cutters, but in my life I had to face several times, because I will tell today what I understood in the process of communication. Along the way, I’ll tell you about different types of milling.

I’ll start a review with what is a milling mill and what they are, but since this part of the review is essentially additional, I will hide it under the spoiler.

To begin with, it is worthwhile to lower those milling mills that are various nozzles to another tool, as well as all sorts of small models for manicure work. We will talk about milling cutters that are originally designed to work with one of the most popular materials. wood. I myself really like to work with a tree, and I wanted to admit a milling mill for a long time. But since I work very rarely, I would hardly have to buy expensive, but cheap ones have their own characteristics, however, I will start with what milling mills are generally.

I think I will not be very mistaken if the most popular is a vertical submersible milling mill. This is a very convenient machine for many types of work. Typically, such milling cutters have a rather great power, about 800-2000 watts and an adjustable immersion mechanism with several customizable levels. T.e. When you press the handles of the milling cutter, it falls along its guides to the stop installed by you.

The “two.handed” option is shown above, I personally did not like this option, but at one time I used a “one.handed” mill, although in fact it is also “two.handed”, but without problems it also admits work with one hand. It was just convenient and that’s it 🙂 I tried it 10 years ago a couple of models of the Fiolet, 650 watts and 1100 watts, and it turned out that I first used a powerful model, and then low.power and I can say that. there is no power a lot of power. After the model 1100 watts, it was very unusual to use small and hard.

Unfortunately, as far as I know, the model with a similar layout is released by only one more company. Festool. I’ll try to explain what upset me. The fact is that still 8-9 years ago there were some complaints to the work of the Fiolent, scolded the curves of the guides, the trampling mechanism, despite the fact that the old models were very good and could calmly claim the title of “People’s Fraser”. But judging by modern reviews, the quality has now fallen even lower and it simply makes no sense to take it. What is bad, you ask, because you can take Festool and enjoy life, an excellent tool. Yes, it is possible, if not for the price of the instrument of this company, “for the home, for the family” it is definitely little suitable 🙁

So it turns out like in that saying. I can buy a goat, but I do not want to, I want to buy a cow, but I can’t.

Another relatively popular type of cutter is the only. It allows you to process the edge of the tree, for example, cutting the protruding edge to the total size of the part. Typically, such milling cutters are low-power, about 300-750 watts and are designed to work with one hand.

It is much simpler, it does not have a submersible mechanism, stops and other things. In fact, this is a vertical milling mill, but with a rigidly fixed height, which cannot be changed during operation. T.e. put a depth, cut it out, set a different depth, cut it out. But besides a submersible milling cutter, it allows you to crash into a part just from top to bottom, this is very inconvenient to do this, it is more oriented for entering the edge of the part.

In addition, there are still a huge number of different milling mills, but they belong to even more rare types, at least in the “household” application and are oriented to a narrow circle of tasks. This is included. lamella filler to remove paint, disk modular bromic (in fact, the hybrid of bromatic and submersible)

Good article on choosing a milling machine, I recommend reading.

When I chose the Fraser model, I was guided by the fact that I wanted to get the most powerful model, although there were other models in the store. They had a key difference in power, there were models 300, 450, 500, 650, 700 and 800 watts. There was also a model with a suitcase, I would most likely choose it, but it had a power of 500 or 550 watts, which was not very suitable for me.

In general, I chose the most powerful model, ordered, received and a little stunned by the form in which I received it. The box is badly damaged, and judging by the video on YouTube, I am not the only “lucky”, although judging by the reviews I was “lucky” the most in the sense that my box was very much damaged. As it turned out later, on the device itself this did not affect, but stuff a tool weighing about 1.5kg in such a box is somewhat optimistic, especially taking into account the transfer by mail.

By the way, along the way, it turned out that the store has two outwardly exactly the same models, slightly different in price, the one that costs 50, and there is another model for 46.

Inside, everything is neatly poured into one large heap, but it seems that nothing was lost.

Total includes: 1. Milling mill 2. Imark guide 3. Corner for fastening additional guide 4. Additional guide 5. Screw “lamb” 6. Fixing screw 7. Two wounds 8. Instructions. 9. Adapter

How to choose a hand.grown milling mill?

First you need to decide on the volume and complexity of the work performed. If they are performed periodically and will not differ in particular difficulty, then it is advisable to dwell on household manual bromic milling cutters to buy. Their power consumption is small (in a trimmer for GKF 600 grass from Bosch it is only 600 watts), and the range of operations performed is limited by simple handling of the edge, with a distance of the cutter not more than 30 40 mm. Such devices can also include all milling mills from makita size line 37.No replaceable soles are provided, but this is not required: lightly (the weight of such trimmers does not exceed 1.2 1.5 kg) the unit can be manipulated only by using a plastic transparent base and a supporting guide with an aluminum pad.

Some models have a mount to the table using a barbar screw. Such trimmers for grass are highly rotated by the shaft rotation. This increases productivity, provided that the minimum supply is ensured, otherwise there is a dangerous overload of the engine through the torque. The manufacturer does not offer vacuumboards for such equipment. The price of the issue is 5500 6000

Semi- and professional models of brown milling mills start from the engine power 720 750 W. The unit is equipped with an expanded set of bromic mills, including for specialized operations. Often the manufacturer also offers several options for guide devices. not only on the inner surface of the removable sole, but also circular guides that allow milling cutters up to 45 50 mm. With the help of such guides, the rotation of the cutter axis along a certain arc of a circle is provided, which is necessary when processing circles that have large sizes.

The range for such trimmers necessarily provides for the option with carbide blades, which allows you to effectively use the device for work not only with wood, but also with plastic, acrylic glass, aluminum and even stone. To do this, the control system has an electronic braking unit of the engine shaft, which excludes any cutting cutters when it is operating.

Professional milling cutters are equipped with a processing zone illumination device, equipped with vacuumers. The price of domestic professional models, in particular, the FR-11120 Energomash, is in the range of 3600 5000, imported (for example, Hammer Frz 710 Premium) will cost more than 8000 10000

Remodeling milling into the only

The idea of ​​this product originated from me when I tried to cut off the edge of the edge with a universal milling mill, trying to put the sole of the tool on the workpiece of the workpiece. The protruding overhang did not let me do this. At first I just screwed a piece of laminated woody boat to the sole to the sole to get a kind of “step”.

The straight groove cutter is set exactly to the level of the workpiece and cuts off the excess edges, the position of the cutter is adjusted to the handles so that the milling cutter is stable on the workpiece, after a couple of excessively cut pieces, I put a pancake on the plate from the dumbbell.

In general, everything turned out quite functionally, but very unpretentious:.Brothers, and then you need to modify the straight edge of the edge with a ruler, smoothing it Compare with a specialized bromic milling mill even something uncomfortable Buy theumer for 5000-6000 r. Somehow the toad strangled.

Here, just from the warranty repairs, my first “Enkor” milling was approaching (in all-chiefs of only 3000 r)- low-power and small-sized. I decided to re.qualify it into the only.

The fundamental scheme did not differ from what I did with my first milling area, but somewhat modified in the form of a “house” (it is more convenient to mill an edge on convex radii) with a rounded neckline. As a material, I chose a textolite, as a rather strong and at the same time not very thick material (if you take 16 mm laminated woody stove, then the cutters may not be enough). Removing the sole and marking holes and technological cuts on it,

On a tape grinder gave it the desired shape, drilled holes, etc. Necessarily the holes should be unscrewed so that the bolts do not go beyond the supporting plane.

After that, I screwed the finished sole instead of a full.time. It turned out something like this.

Pay attention to the installed kamovaya cutter. it was not her that I had to put the larger bearing in diameter and it became completely like real))). Now the edge of the edge after milling does not need to be additionally processed.

A weighting balancir is also placed on a free edge so that the milling cutter does not outweigh or the handle is installed (you can rearrange one standard handle from the base of Fraser) for comfortable instrument on the surface of the workpiece.

It remains to derive the cutter so that it completely removes the excess edges, without touching the laminate itself (for this I recommend to practice scraps).

Now we just put the supporting site on the workpiece and, turning on the milling cutter, we drive the bearing along the edge of the edge.

Result, and ease of use, comparable to professional specialized models for much less money.

To reduce the amount of garbage and sawdust at the workplace, theumer modernized by adding a dust removal to it, note that instead of dumbbells, I rearranged one of the handles on the sole. it became even more convenient to work.

A simple device for cutting the edges on a laminated wood-bearing plate in 5 minutes

Laminated wood-based slab-popular material for the manufacture of home furniture, as well as various shelves and cabinets. And the latter is easy to do with your own hands.

I sawed off as much as necessary, made markings, drilled holes and pulled it on the confirmation (Eurovinty). What is complicated?

Indeed, everything is very simple. If there is a tool with this task, even household chores will cope without problems.

The only difficulty is to pruning the edge. If you cut it by hand, then you can shift it, and then. all the work of the drainage.

In this review, the author shows how to make a simple device with your own hands for some 3-5 minutes for cutting the edges on a laminated wood-based slab.

The main stages of work

For the manufacture of this device, two workpieces of the same laminated wood-brown slab will be consumed. The dimensions are arbitrary. On one of the workpieces we make markings and drill the holes.

Then we fasten it to the second workpiece (larger) with two screws at an angle of 110-120 degrees.

At the next stage, we loosen the fasteners for 1-2 turns, and you need to insert a blade for a clerical knife into the resulting gap.

The back of the blade should rest on the screws, and its tip should be about 3 mm about 3 mm.

Again we twist the screws to the stop, and our homemade is ready. For work at home. it is perfect!

Details about how to make a simple device for cutting the edges on a laminated woody stove, watch the video.

Variety of cutters for trimmer for grass on wood

In many ways, the possibility of a editing milling cutter depends on the equipment that will be connected to the device. It is the milling milling plant that gives as a result those grooves, edges and chamfers that are required in accordance with the design and design of furniture.

Among the large assortment of the milling, you can highlight such classes as:

Round

Most of the milling plants are made of instrumental steel of high firmness. For wood species such as oak or ash, special carbide cutters are used with attacks from tungsten carbide.

Popular models

Manufacturers offer a choice of a large number of bromatic woodcuts in various configurations. Large brands are represented by companies such as Makita, Dewalt, Bosh. The most common Makita gromal machines 37xx are high.quality tools positioned for periodic use. A 440 or 550 W engine with a rotation frequency of 35000 rpm allows you to perform processing with a cut depth of up to 40 mm. Of the disadvantages, the whole.plastic design of the parts of the case and sole, as well as the only tsanga with a diameter of 6 mm, should be noted. The Dewalt catalog contains similar trimmer for the grass of the DWE6005 model. Its feature was the presence of a spindle revolution regulator. The BOSH product line is limited by the professional model GKF600. The advantages of this model include an electric motor with a capacity of 600 watts, a base of metal and zangi of 6 and 8 mm made of metal. Domestic manufacturers did not stand aside. For example, Interskol offers the bromach-toleous milling mill FM30/430. The small engine power is compensated by a comfortable handle. Such an instrument will easily find its place in a home workshop.

Read also: The microwave is buzzing but does not warm the reasons

Lesson 22. Types of the edge and cropping with your own hands (review)

Everyone who at least once came across a laminated wood-busting plate knows that the plate made of this material has smooth surfaces with a texture pattern, while its end parts are a mixer of wood chips with glue. To give the details cut from such a plate the presentation, such a process such as crushing the wood-brown plate was invented. It is a gluing on the ends of the details of the decorative strip.”Ekhams”, which can be, as a color with a decor of a wood-bruise plate, and differs from it.

To date, two main varieties of edges are used:

The PVC edge is used in the factory manufacture of furniture, it is more reliable, durable, durable, but the assignment procedure when using it is enough. Furniture workshops use special shift machines. PVC edge thickness is 2 mm and 0.4 mm. The width also varies depending on the thickness of the sheets laminated wood-based slab.

The melamine edge is less durable, but it requires a minimum of tools and it is widely used among domestic furniture workers. But due to low mechanical resistance, its use is limited. Personally, I glue the melamine edge mainly on drawers. On the reverse side of the melamine edge is always applied by thermocles, and it itself is sufficiently resistant to elevated temperatures, so a simple iron is enough to glue it. It is only thin (0.4 mm) and has never seen 20 mm wider.

So, as our site is dedicated to a greater extent work at home, we will analyze how to glue the melamine edge.

So, for work, we need the edge itself, an ordinary iron, a metal ruler, a clamp or a vice (not necessarily), small sandpaper on a bar.

The very method of stickers of the edge is simple, like a nail:

• We fix the workpiece that we are going to cross. To do this, it can be clamped between the knees, put on a stool so that the edges hang in the air, or squeeze in a clamp.
• We put a piece of the edge on it, approximately corresponding to the length of the surface to be treated (the remains then are easily broken off). The edge should completely overlap the surface of the laminated wood-bearing plate-for this it is done somewhat wider. We iron the edge with a warmed iron (you can through a sheet of paper so that there are no traces left on the sole of the iron if you do not get a special working iron and are not afraid then for your white shirts). It is necessary to warm up evenly and carefully so that thermocles reliably glue the edge to the part, without bubbles and other defects, in which the edge will necessarily beathered. After cooling the glue, we proceed to the removal of excess edges protruding from the sides of the part. For this we need a metal ruler. Put it on the surface of the part, we lead it at an acute angle to the surface of the edge itself. The peculiar “scissors” form one of the blades of which is a ruler, and the second is the edge of a laminated woody stove. Making “cutting” movements with a ruler, we cut off excess melamine.
• Small sandpaper on the bar we clean the possible irregularities of the cut. It is necessary to be neat so that the edges do not grind part of the laminate along with the excess. this will be very striking. Bleing the melamine edge with an iron

Now we will analyze how to properly glue the PVC edge with your own hands, t.e. without the use of a bromous machine. This edge will last much longer than melamine, moreover, 2 mm and looks “richer”. It is worth making a reservation that the edge of the edge can be either with an adhesive layer (glue-melting), and without it. In the first case, the assignment occurs using a construction hairdryer, and in the second case, it is necessary to purchase glue. Consider in more detail the second method, t.to. it is economically more profitable.

Let’s start by gluing 0.4 mm PVC edges. For its fixation, it is best to use contact types of glue, for example 3M Scotch-Grip, the moment crystal, titanium or “88”. It is worth noting that it is more convenient to work with liquid glue (3m), it is easier to level out and its consumption is much less. We work with glue according to the instructions indicated on the packaging.

Contact glue can be replaced with glue. To do this, you will need an adhesive gun with a set of rods and an industrial hair dryer.

To work, we will need a roller for pressing the edge (it is successfully replaced by a rag or a piece of felt boots)), the glue, a spatula for yielding glue or a simple brush, as anyone likes, a wide chisel or knife from a shirt to remove excess edges, a grinding bar with a fine skin.

• Cut the pieces of the edge, leaving a 1.5-2 centimeter supply (immediately for all parts).This will significantly accelerate the sticker process, take 5 pieces prepared for the outskirts of parts, preferably approximately the same size, fold them with a pile, aligning one edge. The whole stack (from the aligned edge) is coated with glue with a brush. Leave the blanks alone. let them dry out.
• We go to the edge itself, for its convenient smearing with glue, we use a wiped.fiber plate of about 15×150 cm wraps. Glue is collected in a twenty.type syringe (or spread from a tube);
• We fix the edge from one end (upper) clerical clothing on the substrate (wood.fiber plate), and press the second with a load so that the edge is smoothed with a strip;
• Apply glue from the syringe onto the chomic tape, level it with a sprinkle or brush and put it to the side (it is better to put it on the rib. due to the bending, they will not fall, and short. just with glue up), we also smear the rest of the scraps; During this time, the glue on the blanks themselves will dry out a little, you can proceed to the itself. We attach the edge of the wood-bearing plate, align and slightly press. Then we roll it with a heavy roller (if it is not, a piece of felt boots. a felt stuck on the plank, as in the photo).
• Let us dry mines 10, after which we once again level the edge with a felt boot, at an angle to the surface of the edge. this we press possible small flashing defects from the edges. Then we cut the overhangs from the ends can be dispensed with a simple mounting knife, but to cut it inconveniently with a knife. it is better to use a wide chisel or blade from a rubbish.
• Final refinement. removing the remnants of glue and underdeveloped overhangs. a skin on a grinding bar