How To Disassemble Self-Locking Drill Chuck Video

How to disassemble a drill chuck with your own hands Simple ways to disassemble and assemble three-cam self-centering keyless and key drill chucks with your own hands. This will allow you to lubricate and clean the cartridge at home.

How to disassemble a drill cartridge with your own hands

Manufacturers of electric drills do not intend to disassemble the chuck, therefore, this information cannot be found in the operating instructions for the tool. But there may be cases when it is necessary to perform such manipulations. For example, for lubrication and cleaning of component parts when the chuck has become tight, and it is necessary to apply great force to bring the jaws together. This can occur due to its contamination with construction dust or rust after moisture ingress.

Seemingly non-separable, the cartridge can be divided into its component parts. The most common three-jaw assemblies of a household electric drill are of two types: key and quick-clamping.

How To Disassemble Self-Locking Drill Chuck Video

Dismantling the key chuck

The key chuck can be disassembled in two ways: using a hammer drill and using a hammer.

Perforating method

In order to disassemble the cartridge in the easiest, perforating way, you must perform the following steps:

1. Spread the cams until they are completely hidden in the body.

2. Fasten a metal blunt insert of such a diameter in the hammer drill so that it freely fits into the threaded spindle hole of the chuck.

3. Support the cartridge on a massive surface, having previously substituted a shock-absorbing pad (for example, in the form of a rubber plate several centimeters thick). As a stop, you can use a thick metal plate held by your free hand, table, workbench, floor.

4. Start the punch, and after two or three seconds the sleeve (shirt, adjusting sleeve) will be knocked off the chuck.

5. The cams can now be removed from the housing. Attention! Performing this operation, it is necessary to make the appropriate marks on the body and on the cams so that during assembly they fall into place. Otherwise the fixed drill will not be centered.

The disadvantage of this method: when the clip is knocked down, some parts may fly apart (for example, a ring with teeth; it usually consists of two halves), and an inexperienced user will add the hassle of collecting all the components together.

Having disassembled the cartridge, it is possible to clean it from dust, rust and dirt, as well as lubricate the parts.

The cartridge is assembled in the following sequence:

1. Extend the cams manually to maximum.

2. Place the two halves of the serrated ring in the corresponding groove in the body.

3. Holding the ring with your fingers, it is necessary to hide the cams inward, rotating the chuck body.

4. Put on the sleeve (shirt, adjusting sleeve) until it stops. This cannot be done completely. Must be pressed in with a hammer.

5. To do this, install the cartridge vertically on a special washer so that the sleeve (shirt, adjusting sleeve) rests against it, and the body can freely pass into the hole. Instead of a washer, you can use a bench vise with jaws diluted to the required size or a pipe cut of a suitable diameter.

6. Place a gasket in the form of a thick plate made of soft metal (aluminum or copper alloy) on the chuck from above, and press the body into the sleeve (jacket, adjusting sleeve) with hammer blows.
That’s all. The chuck can be attached to the spindle and operated.

With a hammer

This disassembly method is very similar to the previous one, but not all users have a hammer drill, so a hammer can be used instead:

1. First, you need to hide the cams inward, spreading them to the required position.

2. Place the chuck vertically on a set bench vice until the body can pass between the jaws, and the sleeve (shirt, adjusting sleeve) rests against them.

3. Quickly warm up the sleeve (shirt, adjusting sleeve) with a construction hair dryer. Instead of a hair dryer, you can use a blowtorch.

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4. Place the shock absorber in the form of a soft metal plate (aluminum or copper alloy) on top of the cartridge.

5. Knock the body out of the sleeve (shirt, adjusting sleeve) with a hammer blow.

6. After that, clean and lubricate the parts and assemble in the order indicated in the perforating method. In this case, you can reheat the sleeve (shirt, adjusting sleeve) using a hot air gun or blowtorch.

The disadvantage of this method is the increased invasiveness of parts.

Also, it is advisable to use heating only if absolutely necessary, when it is impossible to knock down the sleeve (shirt, adjusting sleeve) without this. After all, exposure to high temperatures can lead to a change in the structure of the metal, which makes the parts soft.

Dismantling the keyless chuck

The design of the keyless chuck is much more complicated than the key one, therefore, in order for the process to be reversible, you should not completely disassemble the assembly:
1. Use a screwdriver to push apart and pry the coupling in a circle. This operation must be done carefully and carefully so as not to break the plastic.

2. After the clutch has moved, it can be removed by hand.

3. Then it is necessary to spread the cams to the maximum, insert a metal rod into the chuck (a long bolt will do) and knock the body out of the second part of the plastic coupling with hammer blows on it.

At this point, the disassembly process must be stopped. All lubrication points are open. If you continue to disassemble further, then it will become irreversible.

The build process is performed in the following sequence:
1. Installation of the upper part of the plastic sleeve.

2. Pressing the end corkscrew with a hammer through the spacer in the form of a wooden board.

3. Pressing on the bottom of the coupling using hands.

Drill chuck types

For household and professional drilling equipment, a keyless keyless drill chuck is used.

With such a clamp, you can change the drill in a couple of seconds without resorting to the help of an available wrench. Pressing firmly on the palm loosen the mechanism, allowing the cutting tool to be released from the chuck. The drill is fixed in the same way for further work. This type of chuck works due to a grooved metal sleeve and a locking spindle.

The disadvantages of the keyless chuck include unstable clamping. An already worn keyless chuck does not properly fix large-diameter drills, which leads to turning. Typical for round shank.

The key chuck must be loosened and clamped with a special key, which can be easily lost over time in working situations. Interestingly, more experienced users of drilling tools prefer the chuck with a key, since it is possible to clamp the drill or cutter tightly, for example, even in a vice.

Mini drill chucks are very popular among radio amateurs. Such elements are sometimes put on a drill or mini drill. Can be installed on any tool adapted for drilling. For example, jewelry craftsmen will not be able to perform work without this fastener.

Most often, mini chucks are used for a light drill or a household screwdriver. The optimum drill diameter for a mini chuck is from 0.1 to 4.5 millimeters.

It is very convenient to drill microcircuit, mini models and jewelry.

The mini chuck has the simplest design of a quick-release collet chuck. Most often made from brass.

What are the drill cartridges and how to choose them correctly

The drill chuck is classified as a collet chuck. Collet chucks are used to clamp a drill, cold bar, or clamp a metal workpiece in a cold state. The classic chuck consists of a hardened clamping sleeve and 3 identical petals (jaws).

The collet is a center bushing made of strong, hardened steel. In the device of the cartridge, it is installed in the center. There are 3 cuts in it, which form exactly the same clamping lugs (cams). As the diameter decreases, the petals are pressed against each other.

The first chucks for power drills were a cylinder with an adjusting wheel on the surface. Further, an adjustment sleeve was added to the device.

The cylinder is still attached to the shaft of a drill or screwdriver. A nozzle is already placed on the reverse side.

It is most convenient to attach drills, cutters and taps with small shanks to the drill chuck. This tool inside the chuck is fixed with a collet, pressing the cams inward.

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The jaw chuck has the following options:

  • Key;
  • Gear-crown;
  • Quick-clamping;

A quality drill chuck allows the use of drills from 1 2 mm to 20 25 mm. In this element of the drill there are no significant drawbacks except for the cost of the cartridge itself.

How to remove and replace a threaded cartridge

The drill chuck is installed on the shaft of the power tool and is fixed by the left-hand thread of the screw. It is necessary to remove the damaged cartridge from this mount, but take into account the non-standard threaded connection.

Cartridge problems

In modern drill models, such as Interskol or Makita, the drill or other attachments are fastened with a cam chuck: 3 or 4 cams reliably hold the cutting tool, they can only move along the axis of the drill shaft. Keyless chuck is manually adjustable, more complex designs used in modern drills with a key.

During operation, beating of the clamped bit may appear, the cause is wear of the cams during long-term operation. The tool is repaired as follows: it is necessary to remove the device from the shaft, the same actions are necessary when the drill is jammed, because it can be removed only after complete disassembly of the cartridge part of the product.

There is also such a malfunction: the chuck rotates relative to the tool shaft. The reason for this behavior is damage to the threaded part of the device mount, or subsidence has occurred at the seat cone. The way out of this situation is to change the cartridge to a working analog.

Threaded connection

It is necessary to disassemble such a structure in this order.

  1. Carefully unscrew the locking screw.
  2. We unscrew the chuck counterclockwise, if the thread is tightened conscientiously, we clamp the tool shaft in a vice. A gas wrench is used to unscrew. Then we remove the device and examine it for integrity and serviceability.
  3. If the drill is jammed in the jaws, then we apply not strong, but accurate blows with a hammer using a punch on the cams from above.

Installation is carried out in the reverse order. When screwing in a new device, the shaft must be secured against turning with your free hand. We tighten the locking device last. To help home craftsmen:

Mounting methods

The chuck on the shaft of an electric or manual drill is attached in two ways, a tapered connection and a thread, so there are a minimum of varieties. In practice, there are devices with metric or inch threads, and on the body of the product, even the smallest, there is always a marking.

For example, a designation of this type 1.5-15M13x1.2 is deciphered as follows:

  • 1.515 is the diameter of the tip of the cutting tool in millimeters;
  • M13 metric thread with a diameter of 13 mm;
  • 1.2 thread pitch.

When using threads in UNF inches and specifies the diameter: 1/2 “. This type of connection is considered international and is used in all tools from foreign manufacturers. For special reliability, a stopper is placed on the shaft, in the form of a screw on the left-hand thread, this must be taken into account when you are confused about how to disassemble the chuck of an imported drill. It is necessary to unscrew it only clockwise.

The second method uses a Morse taper, which today is more often called an instrumental taper. The shaft has a tapered part at the end, on which the device is pushed, while it is necessary to apply a small force for a tight connection. The marking is as follows: B10, where the letter indicates the use of a cone, and the number is the diameter of the tail of the cutting tool. This type of fastening is common with screwdrivers.

Dismantle the cartridge

Disassembly methods will vary depending on how the cartridge mechanism is attached.

Dismantling and replacing the drill chuck

When the drill is working properly, the user does not have any questions, but there are cases that require disassembling it, many go into a stupor, solving the problem: how to remove the cartridge from the drill. To perform such an operation correctly, you need to know how the chuck is fixed on the shaft, and then start dismantling.

Cartridge classification

There are the following types of cartridges:

  • Quick-action or self-clamping device;
  • Collet sds devices;
  • Cam.

On a drill with a keyless chuck, you can change a drill or other accessory quite quickly, without the need to use any additional devices. Cartridges of the first option are divided into one- and two-clutch devices.

Single sleeve devices have a shaft locking system that is activated during tool changes. They have a significant negative point. The very low strength of the fixing elements, the external parts of the cartridge are made of plastic, which greatly increases their damage and breakdown of the entire device.

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Manufacturers put cam products on percussion models and perforators, because their design is stronger, mainly turnkey chucks are used here to securely fix the drill.

The collet-type chuck was created back in the 70s of the last century, its design is distinguished by the fact that there are two grooves in the tail section, and the drill must be deepened by twisting movements by 40 mm. There are 4 grooves: 2 for locking, 2 for guiding the wedges, the cutting tool is locked with locking balls.

In a classic gear device, the tightening is adjusted using the chuck wrench that comes with the drill. To properly unscrew the cartridge, you must adhere to the recommendations of an experienced master, for this, see this:

On other models, there are other options for fastening the cartridge to the thread. In some cases, the chuck is twisted entirely from the threaded end of the shaft. In other cases, the screw can be fixed with a special thin wrench using a narrow slot. The main difficulty is to move the cartridge out of place when unscrewing. This is sometimes very difficult to do. In any case, to remove the cartridge you need: a locksmith tool, the necessary skill and patience.

Drill chuck problems when replacing, repairing and how to solve them

In electric drills, a special device called a chuck is used to securely hold the drills. In household drills, cam chucks are the most widely used. With intensive use, they can fail and require replacement or repair. Problems often arise during these operations. So how do you remove the chuck from the drill shaft, disassemble it into its component parts and replace it with a new one?

Why and when should you change?

The clamping device must be able to drill holes with acceptable accuracy. But over time, the seats on the shaft and at the cams wear out, the chuck begins to beat. That is, the working area of ​​the drill begins to move from side to side during rotation, and the hole is drilled with deviations both in place and in diameter. The wear of the jaws does not allow the drills to be securely clamped, and they stop under load. There is only one way out to change the worn out cartridge for a new one.

Replacing the Reverse Threaded Chuck

Two types of threads are used to secure the drilling chuck to an electric household drill using a threaded joint:

  • Inch (for foreign models);
  • Metric (from Russian manufacturers).

On the surface of the body of the threaded chuck, a marking of the following type is applied: 1.513 1/2 20UNF or 1.513 M12x1.25.

The reversible threaded chuck has a left-hand thread for fixing. You need to know this nuance when removing a broken cartridge. In order to get to the screw head, it is necessary to drown the cams in the collet to failure. Once the screw head is visible, use a hardened Phillips screwdriver to unscrew it clockwise to the right. Then clamp the hex key into the cams and hit it sharply in the counterclockwise direction. After the cartridge is ripped off, it can be easily unscrewed.

How to replace the drill chuck with your own hands?

To attach the chuck to the drive shaft of the drill, a threaded connection or Morse taper is used. A visual inspection of an electric drill does not always help to suggest how to fix the drill chuck. The marking on the cartridge can inform about this: it is knocked out on its surface.

Replacing a Tapered Part View

The standard size of the Morse taper (according to GOST 995382) consists of 9 values: from B7 to B45. The larger the number after the letter B, the larger the diameter of the cone.

Thus, having found the marking B on the surface of the cartridge, it is possible to conclude this device with a conical mounting base. With this method of attachment, the cartridge can be easily removed. It is enough to use a drift and a bench hammer.