In the tools of any home master, a drill must be present. True, sometimes it becomes necessary to remove a cartridge from it. As a rule, such a problem arises when the device breaks down.
Any craftsman who understands at least a little bit of technique will be able to complete this task. But for a person who has never encountered this, it can be a big problem. To easily remove the part from the drill, you first need to study the principles of its fastening, and only then proceed with the replacement.
In quick-clamping elements, changing the bit or drill will turn out in seconds, without using any additional tools. They are divided into single and double coupling types.
In the latter version, to attach the drill with one hand, you have to hold the sleeve, and the second screw the other. In one-foot cartridges there is a shaft locking system that is triggered when replacing equipment. The disadvantage of such products is low fixation strength drills. In addition, the use of plastic parts significantly increases the risk of damage to the cartridge.
It is better to put cam cartridges on percussion drills and perforators. They are stronger, so they are often used to work in difficult conditions. In such products, plastic elements are not installed, and the fastening of snap-ins is carried out with a special key.
There are also collet SDS cartridges that were created in the 70s of the last century. There are two grooves in the shank of this design, the size of which is 10 mm.
In this system, part of the drill has to be screwed into the cartridge by 40 mm. It is fixed with locking balls. In addition, in the design there are 4 grooves, 2 of them are fixing, and the rest are used for guide wedges. The spindle of a device equipped with this design is automatically locked immediately after installation.
In any drilling tool, the chuck on the shaft is fixed by two methods: on the cone and using a threaded fastener.
In the latter embodiment, there is an inch or metric thread on the inner channel and shaft of the drill. In this situation, when repairing, many often have the question of how to change the cartridge for a drill. You can find out the type of thread and its characteristics on the body. For example, if 1-15M13x1.3 is knocked out, then it means:
M13. diameter metric thread;
1.3 is her step;
1 and 15. the maximum and minimum size of the drill shank.
Video: How to Know the Key Size for a Drill Chuck
When inch threads are used, the UNF designation is marked. Therefore, before changing the product, it is necessary to check whether the mounting dimensions correspond to the marking. Now almost all drills have an inch thread.
For tight connection, a locking screw is mounted on the shaft inside the device. It has a left-hand thread, in other words, it should be unscrewed clockwise.
Another fixation option involves application of morse cone. The end of the motor shaft is made in the form of a cone. The same conical part has an internal channel. Install the cartridge on the shaft cone. These elements are marked as B 10, B 12, B 16, and also B 18. A particularly similar method is popular in screwdrivers.
Dismantling the threaded chuck
To remove it you will need a screwdriver. She loosens a screw that is screwed into the tool spindle and installed inside the product. Then he twists from the spindle. As mentioned above, the internal screw has a left-hand thread, therefore, it rotates clockwise. True, the cartridge unscrews counterclockwise, since it, on the contrary, has a right-hand thread.
If the screw does not want to loosen, tap on it. through a screwdriver with a hammer. There should not be any difficulties with the cartridge; it can be easily twisted. Although in case of difficulties, you can use a wrench and gas wrenches. Attach the spindle to the drill first, and grasp the chuck last.
In addition, when the chuck operates on the chuck, a thicker hexagon can be installed to invert it. You also need to fasten the spindle with an open-end wrench. On most modern battery-powered drills, additional attachments are not required to secure the drill. However, changing the cartridge to them is very difficult.
When this doesn’t help to remove it, disassemble the tool body. Thus, it is possible to reach the spindle, since it is hidden when assembled. Then everything is collected back, but without the use of keys.
What should I do if the internal screw is damaged during the replacement process? In this situation, it is better to purchase an adapter for a cartridge for a cam type hammer drill, since a screw is included with it.
How to replace a conical instance?
Difficulties in removing the element mounted on the shaft cone should not appear. You can use a special device that is used to replace bearings.
But the easiest way is to place the tool vertically, while the drill will look down. Then you need to tap gently over the entire surface with a hammer until the cartridge breaks out of engagement. If necessary, grinding is performed. The new part is inserted with light strokes from above.
Drill change in drill
Often due to excessive load or improper fastening, the drill is capable of jam cartridge, in the usual way to get it will not work. What to do in this case? First, just try to cool the part. Quite often, this is enough to relax the fists and pull out the drill.
You can go the other way. To relieve jammed equipment will help tapping the fists. To do this, in the vice should fix the free edge of the drill and attach wooden plank to the cartridge. It is through her that tapping is performed. The chuck will loosen its grip from vibration and the drill can be easily removed. over, this method is suitable for owners of quick-clamping and classic fasteners.
But sometimes it is impossible to remove the tool without using grease. In particularly difficult situations, it is possible to solve the problem only after immersing the cartridge in vegetable or engine oil. Keep the product in liquid for about an hour. If you combine the methods, then removing the stuck drill will be much faster.
SDS-Plus drill mount, number of speeds. 1, the power of 850 watts, power. from the network, operating modes: chiselling, drilling, drilling with impact, wear indicator of carbon brushes, electronic speed control, weight 4.5 kg.
Lack of reverse is the smallest of the problems with this rotary hammer. God is with her, in powerful tools, not all of them exist, although the cost in half a thousand bucks somehow implies the presence of ALL possible features and convenient bells and whistles. The saddest thing is that the protective sleeve is completely not designed for the power of this hammer drill. The choice fell on this model, as often it is necessary to go through the walls through, and quickly (installation of air conditioners) and a solid diameter. Naturally, you won’t get anywhere from the fittings. We constantly get on it. And such moments are death for this model. Fast and high quality. See: during use, two cartridge changes and two gearbox repairs. In the last one I don’t remember one reason, and the second time gears were replaced, which lost half of their teeth. All breakdowns are after wedges caught, all breakdowns are at our expense. The cost of the tool increased (including repairs) by another 50%. Sorry, how’s that?
The punch is really powerful, but the problem is that, apparently, the designers very well saved on the quality of components. The main problem of this drill in sudden wedges, when you have to go through walls and ceilings through. Besides the fact that there is no reverse in it (all powerful perfs sin by this) and you have to pull out the borax with the help of a hammer and that same woman from a joke, the saddest thing is that the cartridge and gearbox breaks. Campaign, with the protection of the perfo serious problems. The first cartridge had to be changed in just 2 weeks. The second in 2 months. The third. in a year. In addition, the gearbox was repaired six months later. the teeth of the gears fell. After a year with a slight re-trouble with the gearbox. In general, the cost of repairs is already higher than the cost of this drill, which is already not small.
Video: Bitten A Drill In A Puncher How To Pull Out
The boss bought so that there was a powerful hammer drill in the brigade. And he did not regret the money, it should be noted. And the unit is really powerful and convenient. A slip in another manifested. There is no reverse on the punch. It is really powerful, so much so that it is able to plant a drill so that it is impossible to pull it out without a sledgehammer. Or another punch, with reverse. They got stuck three times. The first time the drill sat down so that it was necessary to knock it out with a hammer. The perf then went to repair. Gearbox repair, gear replacement. The second time about Bosch, and after the third again went to repair. the cartridge spat out a snap. Under warranty, replace the cartridge. The second time we were told that the drill can be pulled out by another punch, with a reverse. And they did, now we always carry the second with us. In general, we are not looking for easy ways.
It was a matter of choosing it, buying it, dumping a ton of money, did not even think that Makita would begin to crumble in six months. At first, he repaired the cartridge due to the fact that a drill bit in concrete was wedged a couple of times, having felt the fittings. Shaken specifically. A month ago, the trunk was covered. Repair and parts, coupled with more than half a punch, cost. Unreliable model and expensive repairs.
I welcome everyone who looked at the light. The review will focus on, as you probably already guessed, the budget stand for a drill Caliber 96203. Of the interesting features of the model, a more reinforced design can be noted in comparison with similar racks from this price range and the presence of a vice for fixing workpieces. To whom it is interesting how the rack proved to be in work, I ask you to be welcome under cat.
General view of the stand for drill Caliber 96203:
Drill stand Caliber 96203 comes in a blue cardboard box:
There is no additional protection during transportation, although on the other hand, all parts are metal and should not break.
The box contains the model name and brief specifications:
Assembly instructions are presented on one A4 sheet:
In principle, there is nothing difficult to assemble and everyone can assemble a rack.
Assembled stand for drill Caliber 96203 is as follows:
It is a good help for a home craftsman, who from time to time needs a small “drilling machine”, but due to circumstances there is no way to purchase it. I agree that this rack will not replace a full-fledged drilling machine, but for undemanding operations this option has a right to exist. If it is necessary to carry out small drilling works, it is quite possible to install either an engraver (dremel) or a simple electric motor. In addition, the main advantage of the rack is mobility, so if necessary, you can take it with you to the cottage or to the workshop (garage).
For those who do not quite understand why such racks are needed, I explain:
In total, if you are not involved in amateur design, assembling any home-made products and a drill, you only need to whip up a hole in a piece of wood or a block. most likely, you simply do not need a stand. If you occasionally drill any details or you just want to facilitate the work, but accuracy is not important. a cheap rack is enough. If you are engaged in modeling or various homemade products. choose a high-quality rack or desktop drilling machine. over, in addition to the rack you will need a quality hammerless drill.
I plan to use the counter at the country cottage. For precise operations, I have a Lerom BG-5158B bench drill, which I published a review on earlier. The “old man” RITM MES-600ERU, which has been working for 15 years, if not more, will act as a drill. Thanks to the standard landing diameter of 43 mm, the drill stood up like a glove:
The main condition is the presence of a lock (lock) on the start button of the drill, otherwise it will be inconvenient to use the stand:
The drill stand Caliber 96203 is a modular design. All elements are already initially assembled at the factory, the user can only connect the modules together.
Let’s start with the sole. It is an aluminum base with mounting holes, on which, if necessary, you can install any vice:
I would like to note that this model initially comes with a vise. There is a similar model (96202), but without a vice. It is slightly cheaper, but in my opinion, this savings is meaningless. The vise, although not perfect, is a good complement to the job:
On the bottom side, the aluminum base is simply strewn with numerous stiffeners, significantly increasing the rigidity of the structure:
The sole is made by injection molding. The wall thickness is 3.5 mm, which at first glance may seem insufficient, but this is not so. Compared to similar Chinese racks, whose thickness barely reaches 2mm, everything is much better here. But still I would like to see a steel or cast-iron base. The dimensions of the platform are about 150mm150mm, here is a small comparison with a box of matches:
The upper surface is milled, there are no distortions, the surface is rough to the touch. In completely “Chinese” racks, the upper surface is not finished and simply painted, which is why it often has distortions. Without a vise, the detail slides on them. The distance from the center of the base to the tube is 8.5 cm. The smaller this distance, the less all kinds of deviations from the perpendicular, especially in the versions of the racks with hollow guide tubes and frail mounting them to the base of the sole. Those. the smaller this distance, the smaller the lever is, therefore, it acts with less force on the "frail" places of construction. On the other hand, the greater this distance, the more dimensional part we can install on the sole and drill a hole at the desired distance. Here you need to choose a compromise.
Video: Drill Rack How to Use
At the base of the sole there are special cut-outs for attaching a different vice, as well as a central hole necessary for complete drilling of the workpiece, or protection against accidental drilling of the base. As mentioned earlier, this rack model is equipped with a simple vice. They are also made of aluminum alloy, have a sufficiently large stroke and the function of "accelerated" clamp:
The vice is not monolithic, which is why it is reinforced with several stiffeners:
The clamping jaws, as such, do not have a vise, so thin parts are not very confidently pressed:
When you press the part hard, the latter slides over a smooth painted surface and slides out. I recommend tearing off a layer of paint with rough sandpaper, the clip should become more confident. Volumetric parts are compressed quite well, especially wood or plastic. It is not worth it to abuse a strong tightening. nevertheless, the thread is cut in an aluminum base and can not withstand high loads.
By design, everything is trite and simple:
Pleased with the presence of a special orange button ("accelerated" clamp), which releases the thread. It is very useful when there is no desire to manually twist the vise handle and allows you to quickly move the clamping sponge to the desired distance.
For fixing the guide tube, a special hole in the base is provided, equipped with two screws:
The screws have a hex head, but there is no special socket wrench included. I hope the manufacturer corrects this annoying misunderstanding.
The guide tube itself is steel, about 1.9 mm thick, 24.9 mm in diameter:
The tube clamp at the base is very good, there are no backlashes at all:
Here I would like to make an important point. no need to try to tighten the screws with great effort. Since the base is made of aluminum alloy, the thread may tighten if it is tightened and you will have to look for a larger diameter screw and / or cut a new thread. The rigidity of this node is good, but when drilling large holes with decent effort, violations of perpendicularity are possible. The increase in the thickness of this node or the addition of stiffeners completely solved this problem. When drilling small holes, everything is fine.
Now the turn has reached the head part, in which the electric drill or electric motor is directly installed:
It is also made of aluminum alloy and coated with green paint. For the convenience of drilling there is a depth gauge:
As you can see from the photo, the maximum stroke is only 6cm. I would like to note that most racks just still have a working stroke of only 5-8cm, no more. This is enough for most jobs. A special collar with a landing diameter of 43 mm, clamped by a special screw, is designed for mounting a drill or motor:
If the drill has a smaller diameter or if you need to install, for example, an electric motor, a plastic spacer ring is included in the kit. Unfortunately, this rack does not have a restrictive ring on the tube, which is why when unscrewing the stopper, the entire head part of the rack still strives to “move down”. A kind of notches on the inner surface of the clamp would be completely useful in order to completely eliminate the slightest rotations of the head part around its axis.
The principle of operation is quite simple. The head of the stand with the drill installed is fixed to the steel tube with a screw. By pressing the feed knob, we make the entire head module move relative to this attachment point. A special steel guide rail in black helps in this:
Due to the presence of a rigid spring, the entire head module returns to its original position without additional effort. There are only two points of contact between the head module and the pipe; there are no loose leaves:
Roughly speaking, the aluminum head creeps up / down the steel tube. Due to loose fitting, a slight backlash is observed. This is a distinctive feature of all drill stands. both expensive and cheap, just in the first backlash is minimal and there is the possibility of their adjustment (adjustment).
Inside the head module there is a special pin designed to limit the depth of drilling. a very useful function, especially when drilling blind holes:
That’s all in design. There are some comments, but the whole rack works and deserves attention. This is not the “plasticine slag” that can be found on sites for inexpensive.
Advantages and disadvantages of the rack:
Of the significant comments, I can note the following:
Now the good points:
The accuracy and quality of the resulting holes, regardless of the type of rack used, directly depends on the following factors: tool feed (if rough, then this is the ratio of the pressing force to the speed of rotation of the cutting element), the condition of the bearing assembly of the drill (dremel / engine), straightness and sharpness of the cutting element (drill). Obtaining perfect holes using an impact drill is almost impossible. Due to the design feature, there is always a backlash of the chuck spindle, so with such a drill. only rough operations. For more precise operations, hammerless drills, drowsers, or simple electric motors are needed. It is desirable that the bearing assembly was not broken (there was no play), and the gear case itself was metal.
Brief conclusions on the rack Caliber 96203:
When drilling relatively soft parts (wood, plastic, color), as well as when drilling small holes in steel, there are practically no disadvantages. With this option, both percussion and hammerless drills will fit perfectly. A small play of the guide head does not have serious consequences on the quality of the resulting holes. When drilling hard metals, especially large-diameter drills with good feed, deviations are possible. With a small feed, the result is satisfactory.
I will tell you frankly. it’s not particularly suitable for precise work, since there is a small backlash in the head part and it cannot be corrected without assault. Stands for precision work are 3-4 times more expensive, and they also have their own “sores”, although not as serious. This is Sparky, Proxxon, Wabeko, Lux-Tools, Encore. At a price slightly lower than the cost of a desktop machine, their purchase is very doubtful, although in some situations they are indispensable, for example, angular drilling.
Sooner or later, most people living in houses with concrete walls need to hang a cabinet, a lamp, a shelf or a picture. At this point, the urgent question arises of how to drill a concrete wall. It is no secret that every home master at least once in his life has encountered this problem, but not everyone knows how to solve it. Many courageously torment the drill and their own strengths, but, not achieving the necessary result, they drop everything until the next attempt to make a hole in the wall. But the drill eventually breaks, and the shelves still stand somewhere in the corner of the room or gather dust in the pantry. But there are still options. you just need to know them and be able to use them.
Concrete structures are strong enough and difficult to drill. In addition, quite often drills come across crushed stone, which is part of the concrete mix, from which wall and ceiling plates are formed.
Holes in concrete have to be made often enough, especially in the process:
air conditioning suspension;
an additional electrical wiring device;
installation of plumbing.
There are two ways to solve the problem of holes in a concrete wall:
impact drill, and preferably a puncher, with a drill;
It is worth noting that it will not work to make a hole in a concrete wall with ordinary drills, so before you begin, you need to purchase drills with specially soldered plates from high-strength victorious alloy, which perfectly cope with concrete and brick. But for soft materials, it is not recommended to use them, since winning drills do not cut them, but crumble them.
What will help the home master?
In domestic conditions, when it is necessary to make 2-3 holes in concrete, you can get by with a conventional drill, without an impact function. For this, it is necessary to submerge the concrete drill with a strong metal pin (punch), which is the same size as the diameter of the hole, as the victory drill is immersed in the wall body. It is used in the case when the drill begins to "stop" in the wall. At this point, a steel punch is inserted into the hole and they begin to hit it with a hammer or sledgehammer, trying to crush too dense areas and punch the hole deeper. In this case, the pin is slightly rotated. Then a hammerless drill can come back into operation.
Video: Do Not Drill Concrete Wall Drill
All of the above steps are repeated one after another until the hole is enlarged to the required depth. This method is quite time-consuming and tedious, but quite acceptable for a pair of holes.
As an option, when drilling holes in concrete, you can use universal drills with diamond spraying. They are highly effective when working with metal, gravel and concrete. They can only be installed on a conventional electric drill, or on a tool with the vibration function disabled.
Work with a drill very carefully, otherwise it will fail too quickly. The advice that professionals give is to avoid overheating the drill, it should be moistened with cold water from time to time.
How to choose a tool?
For a larger scope of work, a perforator or drill having an impact function and drills with drill tips are needed. An impact drill combines rotary with reciprocating motion, which helps it to cope with lightweight concrete, and there is a simple answer to the question of how to drill a concrete wall that is supporting, the best assistant will be a puncher, the main purpose of which is to pierce concrete fencing. There is another difference:
hammer drill is designed for drilling holes of not more than 12 mm in diameter;
The puncher is capable of drilling large holes.
Drill reinforcement caught in the body of the concrete wall should be drills for metal.
What drill large holes?
Professionals who are constantly faced with the problem of drilling holes in concrete use special equipment, which includes:
powerful electric motor;
diamond core drills of different diameters;
fixed on the base of the guide rack.
Diamond drilling allows you to make holes of large diameter. up to 40 cm. The process occurs quite quickly, efficiently, without excess dust and noise. Water is automatically supplied to the drilling site, which simultaneously cools the diamond crown and rinses off the dust.
During diamond drilling, the holes are precise in shape and clear in shape, with a polished inner surface. They can be made in various enclosing structures at any angle to the horizon, and the possibility of cracks or chips in concrete is completely excluded. Destruction occurs only at the location of the future hole.
Specialized firms are engaged in diamond drilling, so if necessary, drill holes in large-diameter concrete, you can invite the masters with their equipment. And it’s not necessary to buy a diamond drilling rig specifically for this.
Garden. Usually these are two semicircular blades welded at an angle to one another. A manual drill of this design is used to organize holes for planting, which is why it is called "garden". But the pits make the same tool when installing poles for fences, arbors and other light buildings.
The auger drill differs helically wound by several turns of the spiral
Reclining blade. features of a drill for TISE piles
Making a garden drill
Garden drill. the most simple but effective design. It consists of:
Cutting part. It usually consists of two steel semicircles with sharpened edges. The diameter of the blades is selected depending on the diameter of the pits that need to be drilled. For convenience, the blades can be made removable. bolted.
Pillar drill can be with a precast
This is a basic design, and there are many improvements to it. But first, let’s talk about what a land drill can be made of.
As already mentioned, the rod is most often made of a pipe of round or square cross-section. Diameter. from 3/4 ‘to 1.5’, profiled pipe can be taken from 2020 mm to 3535 mm.
Knives-blades can be made of:
sheet steel with a thickness of 4 mm;
saw blade for angle grinder of suitable diameter.
Zemlebur with blades from a saw blade for angle grinder
It’s easier to make blades from a saw blade. In this case, the cutting edges are ready. It will be possible to further sharpen the side edges so that the soil is cut easier.
A pico drill is made of different materials. a lot of its designs. They simply make a sharpened rod. Then you need a piece of bar of large diameter. The second option is to make something like a drill out of a strip. And yet. a combination of the two.
And finally. about the pen. It is more convenient if it is made of a round pipe. Its diameter can be selected according to the coverage of the palms. The basic requirement is that you should be comfortable.
Knives and method of fastening
First of all, you need to decide whether you do it yourself with removable or stationary blades. If the blades are removable, welds of thick steel are welded at one end of the rod. Shelves are made at an angle. so that the plane of the knives are divorced at an angle of 25-30 °.
After the shelves are welded, they make two or three holes. for fasteners. Then the same holes will need to be made in the blades, and install them on bolts of a solid diameter.
On one rod, you can have several sets of cutting blades. for pits of different diameters
In the discs themselves, in the center, you will have to cut holes. so that they fit more tightly to the rod, but this operation is also required with a monolithic version. with welded blades.
If you are going to make the blades from sheet steel, cut out a template from paper, along it. a circle from steel. Drill a hole in the center. you will need to insert and weld the rod into it. Circle or square. depending on the selected bar. The dimensions of the hole are slightly larger than the dimensions of the rod.
Next, you need to decide what kind of blades you will make. from two halves of the circle (as in the photo above) or in the form of an open circle with offset edges. one coil of the spiral (in the photo below).
Manual one-turn drill
The edges must also be raised by 25-30 ° degrees. In this case, the drilling efficiency will be maximum. If you work on dense soils (clay, loam with a predominance of clay), the blades under load can reduce. To avoid this, add stops from a corner or a thick strip of steel.
Reinforcing a hand drill for dense wells
The blades bend due to the fact that the steel is used non-hardened, but it is almost impossible to find it in the sheet, and if it is possible, it is unlikely to be bent.
From the saw blade
If you have an old saw blade of a suitable diameter, you have found an almost perfect option. They use hardened steel, and it is elastic and durable. But such a disk cannot be bent, because it is cut in half and these halves are bred at the required angle.
Video: How to Make a Drill From a Disk From a Circular
The disk is cut in half
Such a homemade earthwork drill shows a fairly high productivity. Even used wheels have a well-sharpened edge. And to make drilling even easier, the do-it-yourself drill is also sharpened on the sides.
In dense soils it can be difficult to cut the soil with large blades. In this case, several blades of different sizes are welded onto the rod. Below, near the peaks, the smallest are welded, above, retreating a few centimeters. large. There can be three such tiers, a maximum of four. The entire cutting part should not be more than 50 cm, otherwise it is very difficult to work physically.
Cutting blades can be arranged in several tiers
If a drill is needed for shallow pits. for installing poles, etc., then this design is optimal. it has a relatively light weight, it is easy to work with it. The process of work is this — they lowered it into the hole, turned it several times — pulled it out and poured out the soil stuck between the blades. But if you need to drill deep pits, you will torment a small amount of soil from the depths. For such cases, a box for collecting soil is welded over the blades.
Homemade drill with a land receiver suitable for installing poles and piles
And all this. do-it-yourself drills. All of them are highly efficient. it’s much easier to work than purchased ones.
Due to the large number of turns, a screw drill creates significant resistance, that is, it is much more difficult to work with it than a garden drill. But the screws are used mainly in the presence of a mechanized drive. when they make a drill for wells of great depth. into water, the installation of underground probes for a heat pump, etc.
It looks like a screw drill
To make a homemade auger drill you will need several metal disks. The number of disks is equal to the number of turns. The disks are cut the same, in them, in the center, a hole is cut out for the rod, as well as the same sector. so that you can weld them.
A sector is marked in the rings, cut out
The discs are welded on one side, then, slightly stretching the resulting accordion, the seam is welded on the other side. On the extreme disks, rings are welded. The welded discs are put on the rod, the lower edge is welded.
It turns out such a big spring
Next, you need a winch. The blank for the screw is fixed, the winch hook clings to the ring and stretches to the desired length, after which the screw is boiled.
TISE pile drill
In the author’s version, the TISE drill is blades with a land receiver and a folding wider knife, which forms an extension in the lower part of the pile. But it’s inconvenient to work with such a projectile. a folding knife greatly interferes. Therefore, in some constructions it is made removable, but in general, it is recommended to drill the pits themselves with an ordinary garden drill, and to expand it, make a separately folding knife with a land receiver. So the work is easier and faster.
DIY drill for TISE piles. one of the options
A cropped shovel acts as a knife here, and the land receiver is made of a herring can. The knife is fixed movably; when lowering into the pit, it is pulled by a nylon cable tied to the end. Having reached the bottom, the cable is weakened, the scapula begins to cut the sides of the pit, forming the necessary expansion.
In the photo below. the second version of a homemade drill for TISE piles. The design is more complex, but also more efficient. The plow-blade is made of a piece of spring, ground and welded to the hinged structure on bolted joints.
Dredger. from an old propane tank. The collection of land occurs from below, because the receiver is made with a rounded bottom. It has two holes, their edges are sharpened.
This shell works well even on thick clay. However, to reduce friction, the well must be constantly moistened with water.
A do-it-yourself drill is good in that its design is “sharpened” for the owner. In the manufacturing process, each makes his own changes, then many more modify the product. But without basic drawings it can be difficult to do. This engraving contains several drawings with the sizes of various drills. As you know, the sizes are arbitrary, they can and should be changed, adjusting to the size of the required wells.
For planting plants to make a serious design does not make sense. In this case, you can make a garden drill from a shovel. Choose a high-quality shovel made of good steel, apply marking, as shown in the drawing. According to the markup, it will be necessary to cut out two small fragments, cut the lower part in the middle to a depth of 30 cm (in the photo).
Then the edges are bent one forward, the other backward, the petals formed in the lower part are bent to them. The resulting seams are boiled outside and inside.
Soft Soil Drill
If the soil is soft, the usual design does not work very well. For such cases, there is a special drill with an elongated cutting part. It is a kind of glass with slots on the sides. The cuts are equipped with cutting edges. They are best made from well hardened steel.
Soft Soil Drill
This drawing shows an interesting handle design. it can be rearranged as the length of the rod increases.
Basic drawings of auger and garden drill
Both of these units work well, but you often have to remove the garden, and it’s harder to rotate the auger. Choose according to your own preferences.
Auger and garden drill for land of different densities
How to choose a drill with reverse and speed control
When choosing a drill, it is necessary to consider for what type of work it is purchased. With such a necessary tool as a drill, probably every owner is familiar. Its main function is drilling holes, but in addition it can be useful for many more actions. For example, in some ways even replace the screwdriver. Of course, a drill is a very useful thing, so its purchase should be taken as seriously as possible so that the tool really helps, and does not lie on the shelf idle.
Choosing an electric drill, it is worth first of all to figure out what they are? Over the entire period of its existence, this tool has received many varieties and was supplemented by a two-speed gearbox, reverse and other useful options.
The hammerless drill has light weight and small dimensions.
There are six main types of drills:
Percussion. with the help of such percussion instruments you can drill almost any material. It can work in 2 modes: just drilling and drilling with impact.
Unstressed. they are characterized by precision drilling. Such an electric drill will perfectly cope with metal, plastic or wood.
Corner. such an aggregate has a rather narrow circle of action, but it is this drill that is indispensable when working in a limited space.
Drill mixers. this device is designed to mix different materials using a variety of nozzles. You can mix adhesive solutions, varnishes, gypsum or cement mixtures, paints and other materials.
A screwdriver. a drill. from the name it is clear that in addition to drilling with such a tool, it is possible to tighten various nuts and bolts. The difference from other types of devices is the presence of a torque limiter or drilling depth.
Diamond drilling tools are professional drills that can handle brick and reinforced concrete. They are “dry” and “wet”. The latter deal with hard materials, and the former with soft ones.
This is how the basic classification of drills looks. Its main mechanism is an engine that generates force to rotate the drill. But since the rotational speed of the motor itself is much greater than the mode of rotation of the drill, drills provide for interaction with the gearbox, which, if necessary, reduces the overestimated frequency of rotation of the motor, and at the same time increase the rotation force on the drill. Such a gear drill is switched on, as a rule, with a trigger switch, which also controls the number of revolutions of the cartridge.
Standard passport for an electric drill and its device
To understand how an electric drill works, you need to understand how it works. To do this, you can see the technical passport of the device, where everything is clearly shown and painted.
Many electric drills have a special switch (reverse mode), which can reverse the direction of rotation of the drill
Video: Electric Drill Adjustable Speed
Some features of the device drills:
Many models of drills have electronic speed control, which allows you to keep the desired speed even taking into account the load on the drill. over, there are special torque devices that protect the motor from combustion if the drill suddenly gets jammed.
Impact drills are famous for their "ability" to work with particularly hard materials. This is helped by a special percussion mechanism, allowing you to make hundreds of strokes per second. True, for this, special drills are used, designed specifically for hammer drilling.
Trigger lock. drills have a special button that can lock the trigger if you need long drilling. If you pull the trigger itself, the latch will release it.
By the way, the trigger itself is a switch that supplies power to the motor. In modern models, it is also equipped with a function of changing the speed of rotation. With this trigger, the operation of the drill depends on the degree of pressure on the trigger itself.
Recommendations: how to choose a drill for the house
Before choosing a drill, you should decide which class of tool you need. household or professional. And then make the final choice of the device. For home use, a domestic unit will be quite enough, especially if you have to use a drill infrequently.
When choosing a drill, you should keep in mind:
Power. “home” drills can have this indicator from 500 watts to 1,000 watts. This value makes it possible to work with metal, wood, concrete and other materials.
The presence or absence of a percussion mechanism. for work at home, it is desirable that there is a “punch”, since it is often necessary to perform a variety of work, where you need to check both walls and other very different materials.
Power. can be mains or battery. At home, the first option is quite suitable. True, it is better to stock up with an extension cord just in case.
Rotational speed. usually this indicator is 500-1500 rpm. All drills have a special speed control switch that you need to use when working with different materials.
Diameter of holes. these indicators can be found in the model passport. You need to know the maximum diameters so that you do not accidentally burn the tool on the first working day.
Type of cartridges. for home use it is best to use a key chuck made of metal, which holds the drill bit securely. True, in this case, care must be taken not to lose the key to the cartridge itself.
When choosing a drill for home use, the frequency and intensity of work should be taken into account, since the model is household, it involves a short use
If the work is long, the drilling machine must be periodically cooled, turning it off from the network. It is especially necessary to do this if heat has started to flow from the drill body or the smell of burnt insulation is heard.
By the way, the rotation speed or the number of revolutions performed shows how the tool will behave during work with various materials. The larger this indicator, the higher the drill capabilities. Even if the power of the drill is small, a high rotation speed will block it. You can conduct a small test to verify this.
Analyzing all the moments, we can say that a household impact drill with a power of 500-800 W with speed control and reverse is best suited for a house.
Home Drill Rating
The Sparky BUR 150CET KL reversible drill is easy to use and light enough
Metabo SBE 900 Impuls. a very good drill with a power of 900 watts, with a two-speed gearbox, speed control, keyless chuck and the presence of reverse.
Bosch GSB 21-2 RCT. reversible model with speed control. Easy to use, you can adjust the power.
Sparky BUR 150CET KL can be used as a wrench or screwdriver. There is overload protection and speed control.
Makita HP 2051 F. low power, but rather quiet operation, the presence of illumination of the drilling site and two speeds.
Bison MASTER DU-810 ERM2. inexpensive, but with very good equipment. Light weight, comfortable to work with. There is a reverse and speed control. One speed mode.
Electric drill with reverse and speed control (video)
For mixing, drilling and screwing, it is better to purchase a universal tool with a high reliability class. But if you need a drill just for a certain type of work, the best option would be to buy a device with this particular function.
Drilling or boring. an experienced specialist involved in finishing, repair and construction works will answer this question very easily. It’s all about the scale of the task. A puncher is an electromechanical tool in which a consumable exchangeable part performs rotational and shock movements. The mode is selected depending on the purpose, the main purpose is to create holes. It can be used for interior decoration or as a simple jackhammer punching various designs.
The difference from the impact drill consists in the pneumatic principle and a more powerful electric motor, which creates much greater production capabilities while reducing working time. The drill is a working shock cutting interchangeable part.
Drill for a punch. this is not a drill, although in appearance they are very similar. The principal differences of the first: tail end, more durable material, a larger range of sizes. The shank is the part that fixes and fastens firmly in the drill chuck. For drills, such a device is not provided. The construction classic claims that a drill is a consumable that is no longer improving. Perhaps that is why the sale is carried out as part of sets "for all occasions."
In order for the tool to serve well and for a long time under severe operating conditions, the use of special grease is necessary. It is applied prior to use both on the perforator cartridge and on the shank of the replaceable part.
Boers are of various types. Instances for working on metal are not very effective for use on the ground, a good option for wood is not too suitable for working on tiles. As a different criterion, there can be not only the quality of the metal or alloy, but also the design features. Shnekovy is a self-sharpening "worm variant" used when working at a large drilling depth. It removes the resulting crumb well, is "hardy", more durable in conditions of harsh operation.
It is customary to classify impact cutting tools into several types.
Like an ordinary drill. well applicable for creating cylindrical holes.
Peak. used in concrete operations. Serves as an "electric hammer" to form wide openings.
Chisel. suitable for materials that need to be dismantled. For example, when dismantling tiles or old plaster.
Crown. this type is used to solve specific problems, for example, in preparation for the installation of electrical outlets. Appointment. creation of deep holes of the correct form. Creating wide openings for laying water pipes is another typical application.
Wood use superior in efficiency to the use of similar drills at times. Reduced work effort, chips are separated faster, the structure of the tree under such a cutter is not destroyed.
Earth and construction drill. These are various production topics for a similar design. The first is applicable not only with the engine, but also in the manual version, with the drive of human muscular strength, since it does not require a large intensity of rotation.
Length and diameter are also important differences. For purely homework, products with diameters in the range from 6 to 10 millimeters are applicable. The dowel must strictly comply. Prerequisites for securing fasteners for large objects are a long drill and a diameter of 20 mm. The maximum cross-sectional diameter can reach 5 centimeters. The length of the product is 10, 50, 80, or even 100 centimeters, depending on the thickness of the material being pierced.
An idea of the capabilities of the sample is given by the marking that is applied by any self-respecting manufacturer. For example, a combination of numbers 6.5×160 indicates a diameter of 6.5 mm and a length of 160 mm. Other dimensional options. similarly. The manufacturer combines the length with the diameter so that the tool works efficiently and long-term.
The set of criteria for choosing a household or industrial product is very diverse. The basic requirement is a confident solution to the problem of overcoming the hardness of the material. The second question is the choice of the optimal solution based on price and quality. Here, as in other market cases, one must be wary of fakes and not expect miracles from specimens in the low price category. A good supplier naturally appreciates himself, but this does not mean that he is not faked. A cheap copy can be a tool only for one-time work.
Video: What Metal Drill For Hammer
The credibility or at least the fame of the manufacturer is the rule for choice. It is important that during further operation, the hammer is not damaged. There are such products that, in general, should not be inserted into the cartridge. It’s better not to chase the lowest price too and be safe.
Manufacturers such as Makita, Sturm or Bosch are among the most sought after. They do not need special recommendations, but you should pay attention to manufacturers of the same company. Unfortunately, products of the same brand, produced in different countries, can vary in efficiency and durability.
The most expensive segment is intended for professionals, for home use labeled parts in the middle price category are quite suitable. The quality of the material determines the range and potential resource of application. When choosing a target for purchase, it is necessary to take into account the design of the tail section, which is fixed.
Shanks are usually divided into different types according to a special fixing system. SDS and SDSplus are most in demand for medium and small capacities with a diameter of impact cutting tools of 10-18 millimeters, the length of the fixed part is 4 centimeters. SDStop is used when the drill diameter is 14 millimeters.
SDSmax is used for more powerful devices, the mounting depth here is 9 centimeters, and the diameter is from 18 millimeters. SDSquick. Bosch’s development for the “tail” in a hexagonal section, provides a tight and reliable mount in conditions of increased load and vibration. When choosing consumables by the type of shank, it is first of all necessary to look into the manual of the drill. The manufacturer, as a rule, accurately indicates this parameter.
In some cases, an extension cord is required to solve the production problem. It increases the length of drilling without changing the diameter of the hole. It is very important when using crowns or in the process of excavation. One desired specimen can be supplemented by a set of rods of various lengths, which increases production capabilities. For example, specialists making a well in the ground using a gasoline or electric motor can thus go deep to one and a half to two meters.
How to use?
Before starting operation, always check for damage and clean the tool if necessary. After that, lubricate the rubbing parts, then with some effort insert the drill with the shank into the cartridge. A click can be considered a signal of the correct action. A control attempt to unsuccessfully pull the drill back is for insurance.
After completing work or to replace the drill, press the chuck ring in the direction of the tool along the axis, after which we can expect the extraction to succeed. Unfortunately, in practice there are times when this does not happen. This is typical if the shank was deformed during operation. One possible reason is the low quality of the metal under excessive pressure during the operation. Lack of lubrication provokes this matter even more, because the tool heats up.
Practitioners suggest using a vice where the drill is clamped, and the punch is pulled out from side to side. The cartridge is in a strictly open position. Be that as it may. consumables are no longer suitable. If this does not help, a punch should be clamped in a vice using gaskets to prevent damage to the case. A stuck drill is also crimped with a gas wrench that acts as a lever. A few hammer blows on the key will show how vain the hopes are. If success is not achieved, you will definitely have to disassemble the hammer, for which it is better to contact a regular service center.
If the tool is stuck directly in the structure, switch to impact mode. Further, by pulling with twitching on yourself, you can try to achieve success by sorting out the cause of jamming. The worst option is when the stuck consumable item is simply cut off with an angle grinder.
Sometimes the user is faced with a different kind of trouble. the drill flies out of the cartridge. The phenomenon does not allow to conduct quality work and threatens safety. The reason may be prolonged work at an angle, defective consumables or wear of the locking mechanism. If it is not a matter of the storm and the conditions of its use, the repair of the punch can be assessed as a sudden task. Is it possible to sharpen a drill? This is constantly being discussed by beginners.
Sharpening is fundamentally possible, but the effectiveness of this work is very controversial:
need an appropriate industrial tool for the operation;
need an experienced master.
Before making a decision, the user must evaluate how much such work will cost in comparison with the price of a new product. In industrial options at construction sites, drills are simply replaced because the developer considers the benefits.
A quickly broken specimen is very disappointing, so it should only be used in acceptable ranges of capabilities. Basic requirement: the harder the drilling material, the harder the tip material. Experts recommend using Win or VK8 alloy. a technology with a high tungsten content. Screw constructions, as a rule, "live" longer. Do not force the drill into the drill chuck forcibly; nothing good will come of it. This option is perfect for a different design and power.
It is generally accepted that the stronger the spiral is twisted, the higher the rotation speed should be. A deeper hole is obtained in the same time. In any case, the recommended operating speeds should be used. The drilling axis should not be changed during the process, as this creates a potential risk of deformation.
In the event that you have to drill on concrete with reinforcement, the tip should be diamond-coated or consist of such an alloy for which, that concrete, that metal. is nothing. No matter how the circumstances evolve in the course of the task, you should never forget about security measures. The future success or failure of the operation always begins with this. Small holes are made with products where the spiral is more than a canopy. In general, before starting, you need to clearly understand what kind of tool will be required. Excessive efforts do not improve the quality of the workflow. Any deformation makes the device unsuitable for use, including safety requirements.
OPERATING MODES: drilling and percussion drilling.
DESIGN: the model belongs to the category of light multifunctional household tools.
Drill capabilities are standard for this class. drilling holes in metal structures, and in rotation mode with axial impact. drilling of other building materials (concrete, brick, stone). The reverse is useful when screwing. appropriate nozzles are inserted directly into the cartridge.
Achieving such versatility is impossible without speed control. it is carried out by pulling the trigger. In addition, the drilling depth can also be dosed. the corresponding emphasis is delivered in a set.
ADJUSTMENTS: There is no usual speed limit wheel. they are adjusted only by pulling the trigger. Just above him, as usual. “Flag” responsible for the direction of rotation.
Mode switch. pass-through (like the reverse button on cordless screwdrivers) and is located at the top of the gearbox.
SUMMARY: easy household tool. It is executed according to the minimal scheme, but has many abilities. has shock mode, reverse, convenient to work with screws and screws.
Drill-screwdriver (Russia, Bykovo)
TOOL TYPE: household.
WORK MODE: drilling.
DESIGN: D-580 ER. another novelty of the joint cooperation of the Bykovsky power tool factory and the well-known Bulgarian company Sparky. The tool is compact, low power and designed for precision drilling of metals and wood.
Bulgarian "patrimony". engine. Given the vast experience of the manufacturer in this area, you can not worry about the motor. But this is not the only import component, another one. the Dutch electronic control unit Capax, which has already become a tradition for drills and other Interskol tools. It performs the same functions as a regular domestic tool, but has an incomparably better design and, according to the manufacturer, a worthy resource.
The undoubted advantage of the device. the optimal combination of price and quality, which is important for the mass consumer.
ADJUSTMENTS: the speed of rotation is regulated by the force of pressure on the switch and by turning the wheel on it. Switch the direction of rotation "flag" above the trigger.
Clamp on position. left on the handle.
SUMMARY: compact tool for drilling metal and wood. The perfect combination of price and quality is ensured by the “alloy” of domestic and imported components.
TOOL TYPE: domestic.
OPERATING MODES: drilling and percussion drilling.
DESIGN: PDI 13 K, 13 KC and 13 KCH are not new to the Ukrainian market. Although their power is relatively low, shock mode is present. Drills are successfully used in hard to reach places. compact dimensions allow this to happen.
There is a special “hook” on the case. For it, the tool can be hung on the waist belt. It is convenient when working at height.
Three models are completely identical, but they have different equipment. The letters "KS" mean the presence of a plastic case with a "collection" of nozzles, and PDI 13 KCH in addition to this is accompanied by a set of hand tools. So if you decide to upgrade your toolkit, start with a drill.
ADJUSTMENTS: The operating mode slide switch is located on the upper side of the housing, above the gearbox. Turnovers are regulated as standard. using the trigger and the wheel built into it. There is also a reverse lever.
SUMMARY: inexpensive universal drills for home use.
TOOL TYPE: domestic.
OPERATING MODES: drilling and drilling with impact.
DESIGN: Drills of the Khabarovsk company "Kraton" are focused on the most massive category of consumers and are intended for short-term work. Accordingly, there is no need for “constant” electronics and other technological features that increase the resource.
Drills are made according to the classical scheme and all that is needed to solve typical tasks is present: an additional handle with a depth gauge for drilling, shock mode. A standard electronic control unit with reverse and speed control will allow, if necessary, use the models as screwdrivers.
For greater comfort, there is a rubber pad on the back of the handle, and on the body. clip. The model with the index "K" is delivered in a case with a set of drills for concrete, metal and wood.
ADJUSTMENTS: rotation is controlled as usual. adjusting wheel, trigger pressure and direction switching flag. Shock mode is activated by a slider located on the gearbox from above.
SUMMARY: Drills without "bells and whistles", but have everything you need for household work.
TOOL TYPE: domestic.
OPERATING MODES: drilling and percussion drilling.
DESIGN: KR60LK. the simplest option, but quite sufficient for "amateur" work. The drill is well balanced, can twist screws (there is a reverse), drill a brick or concrete (in the presence of shock mode). The chuck is quick-clamping, so changing drills and bits is easy. In addition to visible and tangible virtues, there are also "hidden" ones. We are talking about improvements that serve to increase the resource, for example, the use of ball bearings. From the original "lotion". LED indicator of horizontal and vertical. It is located on the back of the case, so when working, always in sight.
KR70LK is more powerful than the 60th model. Its gearbox is clad in metal. reliability is increased, and the rear handle is covered with rubber. In addition, this drill (as in the other two) has a compartment for storing "all sorts of things." bits, drills, etc.
The last three letters in the marking KR70LSR indicate its zest. removable laser level. It is installed in the right place. in the prepared hole (spreading the legs of fastening inside) or sticking a needle into wood or other porous material. Battery type "Krona", two mounting platforms. everything you need is included. During operation, the laser projects a clear line onto the surface. To simplify orientation, two bubble levels are built into the “tidy”. In the idle position, he “hides” in front of the D-shaped handle. The latter may act as an additional holder. However, a side handle is also included, and next to the cartridge (left and right) there are two threaded holes for connecting it.
ADJUSTMENTS: all KR series models have the same operating principle. Drilling with a stroke is activated by a slider mechanism on the upper surface of the gearbox. Revolutions set by pulling the trigger. By the way, it is rubberized, which increases convenience.
The buttons for locking the on state and changing the direction of rotation are located near the trigger. it’s easy to reach them.
SUMMARY: convenient household tools with a large resource and indicators of horizontal and vertical.
Diffusion Tool MESU-2
Impact drill / driver (Russia, Smolensk)
TOOL TYPE: household.
OPERATING MODES: drilling and drilling with impact.
DESIGN: This compact and lightweight drill with a traditional design. "Heiress" MESU-1. It is more powerful and a little lighter than its predecessor.
There is a convenient additional handle that can be locked in any angular position. As usual, the clamp is tightened by turning the knobs around its axis. The main handle is complemented by a soft rubber pad, which contributes to the grip reliability and vibration reduction.
The body material is strong and durable. Gearboxes with helical gears, powerful spring for a strong blow, massive spindle, switch with margin for starting currents, optimally selected ratio of winding data for heating (number of turns and wire diameter on the rotor and stator). Here is a set of technical solutions that provide reliability and endurance.
ADJUSTMENTS: revolutions change the wheel on the trigger. It sets the depth of the "immersion" of the start button, and to the set limit can be selected smoothly, varying the degree of depression.
Video: Bosch Psb 600 Re Drill Not Turning On
Slider mode switch (drilling or drilling with impact) is located on top of the gearbox. Lever reverse. above the trigger and is easily moved with the index finger.
SUMMARY: compact, lightweight and inexpensive car with a traditional design.
TOOL TYPE: domestic.
OPERATING MODES: drilling and percussion drilling.
DESIGN: presented lineup. ordinary drills of light and medium power categories, with their functionality not distinguished from a number of analogues. Is that the first two cartridge is not installed key, and keyless. this is much more convenient when you often change equipment. All basic functions are provided. shock mode, reverse, speed control. In everyday life, a drill usually serves for occasional drilling of small holes, and Omaks can handle this without much difficulty.
Models differ in both technical characteristics and shape. 04208th has the most modern and ergonomic streamlined design, and only it has a soft non-slip pad on the handle.
Particular attention should be paid to the very wide scope of delivery compared to other ones. At 04276th in a plastic case. a collection of 40 items, most of which are drills (for wood, metal, pen and carbide tipped). And the 04212th is accompanied by a whole set of tools "Home Master". there is a hammer, and roulette, and combination pliers, and many more useful things. In some cases, it is much more profitable than buying them individually.
ADJUSTMENTS: all four drills have a standard electronic control unit mounted in the handle. Appearance 04208th left its mark on the rotation direction control flag. he looks somewhat unusual.
Impact mode is activated by the slider at the top of the gear section.
SUMMARY: Drills for home craftsmen, attractive primarily for their rich "dowry" and affordable price.
TOOL TYPE: professional.
OPERATING MODES: drilling and percussion drilling.
DESIGN: The drill is built according to the standard scheme. the speed of rotation is regulated by pressing and the wheel on the trigger. There is a switch of direction of rotation, however, the task of reverse. make it easier to remove the stuck drill, but do not unscrew the screws.
The ESR-653 model replaced the ESR-613, with the main changes being “hidden” inside. Among them are: reinforcing the gear section, replacing the plain bearings "holding" the spindle and anchor with rolling bearings, installing metal brush holders instead of plastic ones. The mass increased slightly, but power also increased with it.
ADJUSTMENTS: the maximum rotation speed is set, as usual, with the wheel on the trigger. The force of pressure on it also matters, which is convenient for drilling. Over the trigger. direction switch. Button to fix the position in place. left on the handle.
Shock mode include a slider. the one on top of the case.
SUMMARY: The drill is built according to a simple scheme. Compared with its predecessor, it has increased resource and power. It has a reverse, although it is not intended for screwdriving.
Impact drill / driver with dust extraction system (Switzerland)
TOOL TYPE: domestic.
OPERATING MODES: drilling and percussion drilling.
DESIGN: You can hardly think of a convenient way to connect a vacuum cleaner to a drill. Bosch designers went the other way. they turned the tool itself into a vacuum cleaner. The PSB 850-2 RE draws air through a special telescopic dust collector to cool the gearbox. It is equipped with a millimeter scale and is at the same time a convenient depth gauge. In an old apartment, this will be very handy, especially when drilling the ceiling: garbage does not fly in the face.
According to the type, the device has versatility: the dust collector is removed (and put on) in one motion. Without it, the PSB 850-2 RE turns into a conventional impact drill: there is an additional handle with a depth limiter. There is also a reverse. to unscrew the screws.
But, despite the “home” orientation, the “constant” electronics controls the rotation frequency, and the collector brushes of the engine rotate depending on the direction of rotation (this extends their service life).
ADJUSTMENTS: as is “accepted” for devices with complex electronics, the speed controller is located on top of the case. Otherwise, everything is standard: a through switch. above the trigger; the operating mode is selected with the slider on the upper side of the gearbox.
SUMMARY: one of the most "clean" impact drills to date. Due to its versatility it will be a useful acquisition for the home.
Impact drill with dust extraction system
TOOL TYPE: domestic.
OPERATING MODES: drilling and percussion drilling.
DESIGN: main distinguishing feature. certainly a dust extraction system. It is designed differently than Bosch. spindle nozzle. and looks more bulky. However, most likely it wins in power, as it is a full-fledged “vacuum cleaner”. A telescopic spring mechanism with dimensional divisions and a clamp presses the pipe against the workpiece surface, replacing the usual limiter for the drilling depth, which is now deprived of the additional handle. Under the nozzle is a bag for collecting sawdust. It can be emptied without removing. there is a fastener on the side. "lightning".
Undoubtedly, the PSID 13 MC3 will be in place when working in residential or work premises, where you do not want to litter. However, acquiring a tool exclusively for such cases would be unwise. In addition, the complexity and lengthening of the transmission mechanism affects the resource of the structure as a whole and its power characteristics. And, in order not to make the consumer a hostage to an intricate idea, the vacuum device is removable: it is screwed up, leaving room for a standard key cartridge. Then the tool turns into a conventional impact drill. In this case, there is a second side handle with a clip for the stopper and an additional cartridge. By the way, the kit also includes a set of bits and drills.
ADJUSTMENTS: standard electronic unit with a speed limiter, adjustment by pulling the trigger, a flag for selecting the direction of rotation and a latch on. Slider for changing the operating mode. on top of the gearbox.
SUMMARY: A model that is convenient for working in rooms where you do not want to (or cannot) litter. Without a dust extraction system, it is a conventional impact drill.
OPERATING MODES: drilling and percussion drilling.
DESIGN: models have the same stylish design, the main handle is ergonomically shaped. Everyone except Skil 6390. has a one-foot chuck, which is very convenient for frequent changes of bits and drills. But this operation will not require the intervention of an additional tool in the 6390th model. The “lamp” of illumination of the working area, which is automatically activated by the sensor, mounted in the lower part of the handle, distinguishes it from the others. A trifle, but can be useful in hard-to-reach places.
The 6770th and 6775th drills are a bit heavier and “stronger”, but less revolving. As a result, the torque is higher and, accordingly, the maximum drilling diameter is larger. The increase in power affected the appearance. for convenience, on the back there is a rubber pad and a speed limit wheel on the trigger.
ADJUSTMENTS: the electronics unit is standard, with a through switch of direction of rotation. The mode switch, like most analogues, is slide-mounted and is located on the upper side of the gearbox.
SUMMARY: Drills with a stylish and ergonomic design. Especially convenient when working with frequent changes of bits and drills.
Impact drill / driver (Russia, Izhevsk)
TOOL TYPE: professional.
OPERATING MODES: drilling and percussion drilling.
DESIGN: the power is pretty decent, so a two-speed gearbox will not be superfluous at all. it more fully implements the capabilities of the 800-watt engine. High speed is included for drilling holes in wood or plastic, or when using thin drills. Low. for work with heavy load, in a reverse mode or for threading. The synchronization mechanism allows you to switch speeds without waiting for the spindle to stop (naturally, the load must be removed).
If you engage the percussion mechanism, the drill will cope with concrete. Effective ventilation of the engine is ensured by the shape of the housing made of fiberglass reinforced plastic.
ADJUSTMENTS: the electronic control unit of the Dutch company Capax does not functionally differ from its analogues, but when compared with domestic products, it pleases with ergonomics. According to the manufacturer, it is also a good resource.
On the gearbox on top. slider for turning on the shock mechanism, on the left. speed shifter. The additional handle is fixed in any position on the right or left side. At the same time, the depth gauge stops.
SUMMARY: powerful domestic-made drill with a wide range of features.
TOOL TYPE: professional.
OPERATING MODES: drilling and percussion drilling.
DESIGN: speed limiting wheel. convenient means of adjustment. But when using it, the power output also drops, which is not always acceptable for work where this characteristic is very important. The main advantage of the Blaucraft BSB 850/2 drill. two-speed gearbox eliminating this kind of complexity. If the material is soft, it is better to drill at high speeds. If solid. at low, so the torque will be greater (note that the power in both cases remains maximum).
So that when changing the type of work, changing the equipment does not take much time, the model is equipped with a quick-clamping chuck. Thanks to this, the nozzles are changed without the use of additional tools.
ADJUSTMENTS: speed is adjusted by pulling the trigger and the wheel built into it. Over it. a checkbox for setting the direction of rotation, and on the side there is a lock button for the on mode. The shock mechanism is activated by the slider on the top of the gearbox. On the left side of the latter. speed switch.
SUMMARY: simple drill with a two-speed gearbox and keyless chuck. Suitable for working with different materials.
Impact Drills / Screwdrivers (Germany)
TOOL TYPE: professional.
OPERATING MODES: drilling and percussion drilling.
DESIGN: The “average” power, relatively light weight and impressive functional equipment allow us to use these Metabo impact drills with constant convenience both for drilling various materials and for screwdriving. In the last incarnation, the Sb E 600 RL Impuls is more convenient, equipped with a pulse spindle rotation mode. His appointment. to ensure confident twisting even thoroughly “stuck” screws and screws. The principle of operation is simple. the cartridge does not rotate uniformly, but in sharp jerks following one after another at a certain interval.
Operating experience with drills has shown that they are also suitable for threading. the absence of a "constant" electronics turns into high sensitivity to changes in the load on the spindle.
It is known that the more compact the screwdriver, the more convenient it is. It will not be difficult for the owner of any of these models to verify this statement in practice. it is enough to remove the cartridge and install the bit-nozzle directly into the spindle, since there is a hexagonal clamp. A drill with a disassembled cartridge is noticeably shorter, and its balance is better. she doesn’t bite her nose.
ADJUSTMENTS: the mode is set using the slide switch located above the gearbox. In addition, the Sb E 600 RL Impuls on the upper side of the case (above the main handle) has a torque selection and pulse mode dial.
The speed and direction of rotation are pre-set using the “starting block”, consisting of a wheel on the trigger and a flag lever.
SUMMARY: compact and reliable professional cars. The Sb E 600 RL Impuls is very convenient for screwdriving due to the pulsed spindle rotation mode.
The fantasies of a good home master are characterized by a wide variety of works. They contain parts such as bodies of revolution, which are made on lathes for wood and metal. However, to acquire ownership of such a machine will be an expensive undertaking for the family budget. The manufacture of turning equipment using a drill will expand the capabilities of the master.
If on a manual snap, which is often used in work, the handle breaks. Or, for example, your task is to make chess pieces as a gift. These and other similar works can be performed using a lathe made on the basis of an electric drill. On do-it-yourself equipment, the handle will turn out to be as convenient as possible, and the chess pieces original.
The traditional version of the lathe includes the following main components: electric drive, bed (base), front headstock, tailstock, caliper. An electric drill is used as an energy source (electric drive) on a home-made lathe.
Designed to accommodate all other nodes. She perceives the whole load when working for herself. Therefore, the bed must have a margin of safety. The design minimally deforms when performing work, ensuring the accuracy of manufacturing parts.
The bed is highlighted in red
In the classic version of the lathe, the bed is a site technologically difficult to manufacture. Its surface, interfaced with other assembly units included in the lathe, is performed with high precision requirements. In the process of its processing, special high-precision equipment is used.
The accuracy of the machine is largely dependent on the quality of the bed. Therefore, this is an expensive part. In a home-made version, the requirements for the final product are much simpler, the bed (base) can be made from any available materials that do not require expensive processing.
In the front headstock of the lathe is an electric motor with a gearbox and a control unit. Its functions include transmission of rotation, as well as basing the workpiece for the purpose of processing. Another name for the headstock is spindle, because the main part of this assembly is the spindle. This is a multi-stage shaft with a bore inside, rotating in precision adjustable bearings.
From the side of the working area there is a flange to which a three-jaw self-centering cartridge is attached. Through the holes in the shaft, various clamping devices, for example, a collet, are installed. The workpiece is fastened in a home-made machine using a drill chuck of an electric drill, that is, it has significant limitations.
The control unit of a conventional lathe allows you to choose almost any option for machining a part according to the technological process. In a home-made version, the function of the headstock is performed by an electric drill along with the base on which it is attached. Therefore, the choice of workpiece processing mode is limited by the functionality of the power tool.
To create the necessary rigidity during processing, the workpiece is fixed on both sides. This is especially important for long parts. Therefore, the back is located against the front headstock. In the case of the tailstock is a stubborn or rotating center, which serves to preload the workpiece. A cutting tool such as drills, countersinks, reamers can be installed in the tailstock.
The support of the lathe provides the supply of the tool to the processing zone. Typically, the tool is mounted in a special tool (tool holder), which is placed on the caliper. The kinematic diagram of the caliper allows it to move both in the longitudinal direction and in the transverse relative to the axis of the spindle. To obtain conical surfaces, the tool can be installed at an angle.
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The working tool of lathes is set in motion both manually and with the help of mechanical devices. On home-made lathes, the supply of the tool to the cutting zone occurs mainly with the help of manual physical force.
There are many options for making a do-it-yourself lathe from a drill. However, in principle they are not much different from each other. In fact, this is an electric drill, adapted to work in conjunction with the structural elements of a lathe.
When choosing the design of the bed, it is necessary to consider the possibility of placing it on the desktop (workbench) of the home master. It can be attached to it using clamps or threaded connections, depending on the magnitude of the load during processing. The bed allows you to easily move the lathe from the drill with all the nodes installed on it in case of a change in location as necessary.
The dimensions of the bed must be selected in accordance with the size of the workpieces. If there are corners of 40×40 mm or a square pipe of such a section, welding a bed of this metal will be a good option. It is imperative to provide for a groove along which the tailstock and the handler move. In the absence of a corner and square pipes, it is possible to make a bed of wooden blocks.
Depending on the model of the selected electric drill, a stand is developed for it. A structure is made of three plywood plates knocked together with each other and a base with a lodgement under the drill body. The stand is attached to the bed, while the supporting part of the drill is pressed against the tool tray using a clamp. Also, you can try to fix the drill on the bed with an iron clamp. Both options are presented in the pictures below. The method of attaching a drill is not limited to only these options. You can experiment and invent your own. It is important to attach the drill so that it rests on the bed without movements and backlash during operation.
For the tailstock we assemble a corner from two wooden bars. It is attached through the groove to the bed. In one of the bars a hole is made for a furniture loop with an internal thread. A tip with a tip sharpened under the cone is twisted into it. The entire assembly is clamped with a nut located on the side of the working area. This location prevents the tailstock assembly from unwinding.
Important: The axis of the tip must match the axis of rotation of the drill chuck. This will reduce the runout of the workpiece during processing and make the processing of workpieces better.
As a replacement caliper, on a lathe made of a drill, a handicraft is used. It moves freely along the guide groove of the bed, providing a minimum clearance between the handrail support and the rotating workpiece. This is due to the fact that the tool on the support of the handrail is held manually. The distance between the workpiece and the support should not increase the moment of force, reducing the physical efforts of the machinist. The mount provides a secure fit in the working position.
The correct layout on the bed of all these nodes will allow turning of the workpieces. If you develop additional equipment for a home-made machine from a drill, then from processing simple cylindrical bodies of revolution, you can move on to more complex ones. A set of diverse clamping cones, flanges and mandrels will expand the range of workpieces.
Below you can see the drawings of a homemade lathe. All dimensions are in mm:
Option to make a mini lathe:
The material used for processing is a well-dried wood. You can work and try to work with metal, but for this you need good skill and experience. Some “soft” metals (copper, aluminum), when used in the construction of a powerful drill, can undergo shaping.
In the private sector, various cutting tools are sharpened using grinding wheels. The use of felt and polishing wheels makes the work surface clean and smooth.
The priority in using lathes from a drill belongs to the processing of wood blanks. The maximum effect is achieved in obtaining curly surfaces. A tool that is made from worn files, with the help of human thought and physical strength, is able to create unusual art forms.
Any tool requires timely maintenance. And the puncher needs this in the first place. Its operation is accompanied by a large number of reciprocating movements and rotations. In this case, the amount of dust emitted from the treated object has a very high concentration. In such working conditions, careful maintenance of the tool and timely replacement of grease is necessary.
Many users are sure that if it is present, then you can work with it an unlimited amount of time. This misconception exists among users due to the low level of knowledge of physical laws. Consider the mechanism of lubrication a little deeper.
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What is lubricant and why is it needed?
It is recommended to change the grease in the punch once every six months.
A lubricant is a viscous mass that is designed to minimize the coefficient of friction between parts. Reduce, not eliminate completely. This means that friction between the parts is almost always present, and with it part of the fine particles is separated from the parts and gets directly into the oil. Over time, this grease enriched with metal dust already ceases to fulfill its main function. First, the viscosity of the grease simply changes, and a little later, it itself becomes the cause of rapid wear of parts. The viscosity of the lubricant is the main parameter that you must pay attention to when buying it. The punch manufacturer must indicate in the accompanying technical documentation all the parameters of the punch and the lubricating fluid that must be used. Particular attention should be paid to the frequency of maintenance, which indicates how long it is necessary to change the lubricating oil.
For a puncher with a quality certificate, it is necessary to use only branded lubricants, otherwise in the event of a device failure, you will lose the right to warranty service. After the warranty period, it is also advisable to use the substance recommended by the manufacturer, but at this point, as a rule, the user uses cheaper domestic counterparts. Solidol or lithol will not harm your instrument in the least. But do not forget that lithol "works" a much shorter period, so it should be replaced more often.
What do you need to lubricate a rotary hammer?
The scheme of the device components of the punch.
Such lubrication is also required for the temperature regime of use. But this does not mean at all that the use of lithol is prohibited. There are facts when, when using a domestic lubricating fluid, the impact force of a perforator only increased and the noise background produced by it increased. This is especially true of the Chinese assembly punch. Users of Chinese products do not hope for warranty service, therefore, they act at their discretion from the very beginning of the use of a punch (or drill). Since the punch of each manufacturer has its own fundamental design features, the general lubrication instructions cannot exist. The main thing that you have on hand:
product care instructions;
branded grease or its equivalent.
And then, as you may have guessed, we act strictly according to the instructions. Do not forget that the perforator should be as dust-free as possible. And make sure that the lubrication level does not exceed the reference mark. As a rule, a perforator has a special capacity for lubricating oil, so it is not difficult to complete the entire procedure.
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Lubricating the rotary hammer immediately after work is not recommended, since heated parts, when cold grease gets on them, lose their physical properties. It is also advisable to lubricate the drill shank with solid oil or lithol. If the punch is equipped with an open cartridge, then it makes sense to lubricate the seal. It must first be disassembled and wiped thoroughly. The applied grease will extend the life of the cartridge and will resist dust from entering the hammer.
Is it worth it to disassemble the gearbox yourself?
Disassembly of the perforator gearbox: 1. special ring, 2. releasing sleeve, 3. ring, 4. ball, 5. spring 8. casing, 22. closing spring, 28a. switch, 29. ring, 30. spring, 31. retainer.
The perforator gearbox requires special attention. It’s not so difficult to lubricate the gearbox parts, but you shouldn’t do lubrication yourself before the warranty period expires. You definitely succeed in disassembling the gearbox, but not everyone can assemble it. With the problem of gear lubrication, it is better to contact specialized workshops or a branded service center. This work is very delicate, therefore it is better to entrust it to real experts. It is possible that the nearest such center is far from you, so you decide to lubricate the gearbox at home.
Then it should be recalled that the lubricant must be replaced by first disassembling the gearbox. Both before and after disassembly, thoroughly clean the hammer from dust. Better if you blow through all the details. A compressor helps you quickly remove dust. Any building hair dryer or even an ordinary brush is suitable for this. The main thing is that dust does not get into the gear housing.
When disassembling, pay attention to all the details. Some of them have no lubrication at all. This does not mean that they have been greased. Just part of the gearbox parts is not lubricated. You also do not need to smear them. When disassembling, we try to remember as much as possible the position of the parts and the order in which they are extracted. So, you will not get "extra" parts during assembly. All parts of the gearbox must be thoroughly washed with kerosene (or spindle) and wiped dry with a rag. It is also necessary to flush the gear housing from the inside. There is no need to rush with the assembly: let the case dry.
Causes of hammer overheating
And now we lubricate the parts and assemble the gearbox in the reverse order. We remind you that an excessive amount of lubricant can also affect the quality of work: gearbox heating may increase.
If the punch began to heat more than usual, then this does not mean that there is a problem with lubrication. Most likely, you used the chiselling mode for too long, so the lubricant simply did not reach all the parts of the punch in the required amount.
A second reason may be clogging of the engine cooling openings. There is only one solution: to clean the puncher from dust and transfer it to a different operating mode for a while. If the punch works for 15-20 minutes like a regular drill, the temperature of the case will significantly decrease. The gearbox must have the same temperature in all modes of using the hammer drill.
Subtleties of drill maintenance with punch function
It is much more difficult to maintain a drill, which is also positioned as a hammer drill. Such a hybrid of two tools has a number of disadvantages compared to conventional rotary hammers. Firstly, they do not have special containers for filling grease. Secondly, it’s much more difficult to maintain the mechanism cartridge. Only the tip of the drill needs constant lubrication. The amount of lubrication is minimal: just wipe the drill from dust and apply a small ball of solid oil (the size of a match head) to the tip.
The drill will be very easy to move and will serve you for more than one year. The same requirements apply to the maintenance of a conventional drill drill. Excess grease on the storm will not harm the mechanism, but it will certainly splatter and may cause cosmetic damage to the repair of the apartment. But if the grease is added to the gearbox in excess, then it will simply leak.
Excessive lubricant pressure will surely squeeze out one of the seals, and the heated grease will protrude onto the gear housing.
And this is the same spray and the same problems with the repair. And the gearbox itself will be damaged.
A few words must be said about professional rotary hammers. In personal use of a home master, such a tool usually does not exist. Here, first of all, cost plays a role, therefore, they acquire them much less often. Meanwhile, such a punch is the most unpretentious and easy to maintain. There is no problem with the lubrication of such a tool, since the design of the mechanism is extremely simple. The gearbox also has no features that impede its maintenance. Everything is simple: we open the drain valve, release the used grease into the tank, rinse the hole for greasing the perforator, close the drain hole and fill in new grease to the required level. The gearbox of such a hammer drill is serviced in the same way as previously described.