Bosch Drill How To Insert A Drill

Today, the punch is one of the most popular tools, so it is difficult to underestimate its benefits. The tool is used by both experienced professionals and ordinary amateurs. In many situations, without this device would have been tight. In this article, we look at how to insert a drill into a puncher so as not to damage it. A masterful ability to correctly use the tool will help bring your work to perfection. To insert the drill into the tool, you will need a hammer drill, drill, chuck and grease.

What is a hammer drill

Before installing a drill in a perforator, it is first of all necessary to understand. Today it is difficult to finish repairs or construction without resorting to the help of a perforator. When drilling is needed, this tool is simply indispensable. The punch is used during work with concrete and brick, it is also often used for work on metal or wood as a regular drill.

Bosch Drill How To Insert A Drill

Many functions make this tool universal. rotation with impact, impact without rotation, rotation without impact, drilling in concrete, function of a jackhammer, drilling in wood and metal and many others. You need to know that there are many types of hammer drill. The principle of using the tool is the same, but if you need to drill a wide and deep hole, it is better to use a larger and more powerful device.

Punch tooling

To work with this tool, you need various snap-ins. drills, concrete drills for perforator, chisels, blades and crowns. Drills and crowns are used when drilling holes, drills are designed for concrete and stone, bits are used for mortising work, and blades are needed to knock down plaster or old tile. All the nozzles on the punch have the shape of a shank, due to which fast and reliable fixation in the cartridge is carried out.

Special angle nozzles, a dust extraction system, mixers for mixing mortars or paints, chisels and various types of nozzles (sharpening drills, a water pump, a nozzle for cutting metal in sheets) can also be used with a hammer drill. Before starting any work with a rotary hammer, make sure that it is properly equipped and suitable for future work. A tool too small may not be able to handle the heavy load.

Remedies

When working with a hammer drill, be sure to remember the protective equipment. These include glasses, earplugs, and gloves. You should also work in special clothing, excluding anything that might accidentally wrap around a drill or drill. When working with the device, do not put pressure on it; this may end badly.

Try not to idle the tool for too long, this is only allowed before checking it. When working with porous material, use hammerless drilling so that it does not crumble. If you have to work with solid material, it is better to use a cutting fluid emulsion. If the work involves the use of a long drill, to save money, you can start working with a shorter metal drill for a perforator, but of the same diameter.

Grease the drill shanks every 180-200 holes. Pay attention to the heating of the instrument, with strong heating it is better to take a break. Alternate periods of work and rest of the tool. As a rule, a break is done every thirty minutes. Its duration. about ten minutes.

How to insert a drill into a hammer drill: step by step instructions

If, when working with a puncher, all the rules are taken into account and attention is paid to the subtleties, the work will be done competently and easily. Always follow construction technologies and do not forget to periodically check the tool for malfunctions.

Health Check

Before you start replacing the drill or working with the tool, you must make sure that it is working. To do this, insert the plug into the outlet, and put the hammer into the drilling mode without a fight (left extreme position). After that, the start button is pressed. If you hear an even sound, devoid of glitches and jerks, you can get to work.

Before starting work, do not forget to check the walls or other surfaces for water or electrical wiring. The handle must be securely fastened and not loose during operation. A timely check or inspection will help to avoid injuries and breakdowns of the device.

Please note: never touch the rotating parts of the tool, otherwise it can lead to a sad outcome. For the same reason, it is only necessary to install the drill chuck and drill for the bosh punch with the plug unplugged from the socket.

Chuck acquisition

You need to purchase a special chuck that fits your rotary hammer model. If you can’t choose or don’t know which cartridge is needed, it’s best to take a tool with you and try compatibility on the spot.

Video: Bosch Drill How To Insert A Drill


Today, rotary hammers are equipped with two types of cartridges. keyless and key. The key option is traditional, the drill on a tree for a puncher in it is clamped using a special key. In this case, the mount is reliable, but less convenient than that of the quick-release chuck. The keyless chuck easily clamps the drill without the aid of any tools. Just choose the most suitable option and follow the further instructions.

Choosing a drill for a hammer drill

Today, drills are made from carbon, high speed and alloy steels. If you have to work with durable materials, the drill can be equipped with heavy-duty hard soldering. Drills are feather, centering, with straight flutes and spiral (for deep drilling).

You can also purchase a drill designed for wood, metal, stone, concrete, glass, ceramic, diamond or a universal option. Before you fix the drill in the punch, you need to decide on the type, if you want the work to be done correctly. The color of the drill indicates the form of the final result.

If the drill is painted black, it means that it was treated with superheated steam, but this does not affect the quality, despite the popular opinion that black drills are stronger. If the drill has a brown or slightly golden hue, most likely it was subjected to tempering to relieve internal stresses. Drills that are processed with titanium nitrile have a bright golden color, such options are the most expensive and durable.

As a rule, good companies indicate on the drill box its characteristics, such as the grade of steel and the material with which it is possible to work. If the drill heats up significantly during operation, it means that it has become dull or has been sharpened incorrectly.

How to get a drill from a punch

If an old drill bit is inserted in the punch, it must be carefully replaced. Before pulling out any nozzle, be sure to pay attention to the type of its cartridge. Remember, the keyless and keyless chuck. The key is more reliable, especially when working in shock mode. This cartridge is made of metal, therefore it is less exposed to mechanical damage.

Before you pull out the drill from the punch with a double-coupled quick-clamping chuck, it is imperative to switch the device to reverse mode. After that, it is necessary to fix the lower sleeve with one hand and with the other. unscrew the top. In a one-jaw cartridge, the nozzle can be replaced with only one hand, since it is placed on rotary hammers with automatic locking of the shaft.

If the drill is stuck

There are times when the working tool is stuck in the cartridge and does not want to be pulled out. Here you need to know the following. To gently pull out the nozzle, it is necessary to clamp its free part in a vice and hammer the cams of the chuck through a wooden extension with a hammer until the drill tail comes out of the quick-clamp chuck. If the drill bit is stuck firmly in the punch, and this does not help, you can remove the cartridge and place it in gasoline, and drop a little automobile oil into the key cartridge.

Also, there are often situations when the drill gets stuck in the wall during concrete construction work. This occurs during clamping between concrete and reinforcement. You must stop pulling the trigger and loosening the hammer, as it may break. To get started, pull the drill out of the chuck, replace it, and begin to carefully knock out the concrete around the stuck drill. Avoid getting stuck in a drill. After this procedure, a stuck drill can be removed without difficulty.

Chuck insert

For proper operation of the tool, it is necessary to lubricate the punch with special grease. It is better to purchase a proprietary product that is resistant to water and prevents moisture from entering metal surfaces, which prevents corrosion from appearing.

To do this, open the tube with grease and squeeze a little into the hole into which the nozzles are inserted. Next, the tool is placed on the floor or on another hard, comfortable surface with the handle, after which the back of the punch head is pulled down, the chuck is inserted, and the lower part of the head is returned to its previous position.

Drill insert

After the above steps, you can insert the Makita drill bit into the chuck. Then, by rotating the upper part of the cartridge clockwise, it is necessary to clamp the drill. After this, be sure to check whether it is firmly fixed.

If you understand that the drill is loose, try tightening the chuck harder. After the final fastening and compliance with all actions, you can turn on the hammer in the network. Press the start button several times so that the grease can disperse well into parts.

Beginning of work

Before starting work, you need to make sure what mode the tool is in. For one minute, he should be idling. Be sure to check the operation of the gearbox so that it does not emit vibrations, excess noise or sounds. Nor should smoke or odor resemble burning insulation.

For drilling, it is necessary to install the drill in the place where the hole will be made and only then press the power button. When working with a punch, do not put too much pressure on the surface. Modern rotary hammers have the property of on / off. This property of the tool is able to provide the main work with a decrease in speed. Thanks to this mode, the hole will be made in a precisely defined place and the drill will not go to the side.

When drilling metal or wood, do not turn on the shock mechanism, this can lead to damage to the device. There are rotary hammers in which an automatic shutdown mechanism is installed when the wrong option is selected. During construction work, drilling can be used for drilling concrete. To free a hole from dust, it is necessary to periodically remove a part of the drill and return it to its place.

Rotary Hammer Operation

How long the hammer will serve will depend on compliance with all the rules of its operation. When working with a material such as concrete, you should not save money on lubricating the tool. If the tool fails, it must be taken to a service center. Even if it is not damaged, from time to time it is worth taking it for inspection by masters.

Please note that some malfunctions provoke injuries, this is especially true for powerful punchers with a strong blow. If the drill in the punch is jammed strongly, or you are not completely sure of your abilities, it is also better to seek the help of qualified specialists!

To clean the tool from building dust, you can use a vacuum cleaner. When using a punch, it is worth remembering the rest mode, the device tends to heat up even at low speeds. Follow the instructions that came with the device.

Given all the above, it can be concluded that the self-insertion of the drill into the hammer is a very simple procedure. Also remember that under the law, a hammer can only be used after seven in the morning and until eleven in the evening. Try to carry out repair processes on weekdays from nine in the morning and finish them until seven in the evening.

How to Disassemble a Bosch Gsb 16 Re Drill

When the drill is working properly, the user does not have any questions, but there are cases requiring dismantling, many get into a stupor, solving the problem: how to remove the cartridge from the drill. To correctly perform such an operation, you need to know how the cartridge is mounted on the shaft, and then already begin dismantling.

Cartridge classification

The following types of cartridges:

  • keyless action or self-clamping device;
  • sds devices of a collet type;
  • cam.

On a drill with keyless chuck you can change the drill or other nozzle quite quickly, without the need to use any additional devices. The cartridges of the first option are divided into single and double coupling devices.

How to Disassemble a Bosch Gsb 16 Re Drill

One-piece devices have a shaft locking system that is triggered during tool change. They have a significant negative point. the very low strength of the fixing elements, the outer parts of the cartridge are made of plastic, which greatly increases their damage and breakdown of the entire device.

Cartridge repair of this kind is not provided. only a replacement.

Manufacturers put on percussion models and perforators cam products, because their design is more robust. mainly turnkey cartridges are used here, for reliable fastening of the drill.

Collet type The cartridge was created back in the 70s of the last century, its design is different in that there are two grooves in the rear part, and the drill must be deepened by 40 mm with screwdriving movements. There are 4 grooves: 2 fixing, 2. for guiding the wedges, the cutting tool is fixed with locking balls.

In a classic gear device, the tightening is adjusted using key for cartridge, which comes with the drill kit. To properly unscrew the cartridge, you must adhere to the recommendations of an experienced master, for this, watch this video:

Mounting Methods

The chuck on the shaft of an electric or manual drill is fastened in two ways. a conical connection and a thread, so there are a minimum of varieties. In practice, there are devices with metric or inch threads, and markings are always present on the body of the product, even the smallest one.

For example, a designation of this kind 1.5-15M13x1.2 is deciphered as follows:

  • 1.5-15 is the diameter of the tail of the cutting tool in millimeters;
  • M13. metric thread with a diameter of 13 mm;
  • 1,2. thread pitch.

Using thread in inches. UNF and diameter: 1/2 ”is indicated. This type of connection is considered international and is used in all instruments of foreign manufacturers. For special reliability, a stop is placed on the shaft, in the form of a screw on the left-hand thread. this must be taken into account when confusing how to disassemble the cartridge of an imported drill. Unscrew it only clockwise.

Video: How to Disassemble a Bosch Gsb 16 Re Drill


The second method uses morse cone, which today is more often called an instrumental cone. The shaft has a tapered part at the end, on which the device is mounted, with a little effort to make a tight connection. The marking is: B10, where the letter indicates the use of the cone, and the number indicates the diameter of the tail of the cutting tool. This type of fastening is common with screwdrivers.

Some drills are equipped with an adapter (adapter) for the clamping mechanism, which allows drilling with maximum accuracy.

Cartridge Problems

In modern models of drills, such as Interskol or Makita, the fixing of a drill or other nozzles is carried out by a chuck with cam mechanism: 3 or 4 cams securely hold the cutting tool, they can only move along the axis of the drill shaft. The keyless chuck is manually adjustable, more complex designs used in modern drills. with a key.

During operation, a beating of the clamped bit may appear, the cause is the wear of the cams during prolonged use. The tool repair is carried out as follows: it is necessary to remove the device from the shaft, the same actions are necessary when jamming the drill, because it can only be removed after the cartridge part is completely disassembled.

There is also such a malfunction: cartridge rotates relative to the tool shaft. The reason for this behavior is damage to the threaded part of the device mount, or the landing cone has a subsidence. The way out of this situation is to change the cartridge to a working analogue.

Tool for work

Replacing the drill chuck is easy if you know the design of this unit and the methods for attaching it. To carry out repairs you will need a simple set of tools:

  • bench vise, you can use not standard, but a smaller version for household needs;
  • steel hammer;
  • joiner’s mallet;
  • pliers or pliers;
  • medium sized pipe wrench;
  • set of wrenches;
  • calipers;
  • screwdriver;
  • file;
  • sanding paper for grinding.

The list indicates the minimum set, there are situations where other locksmith tools may be required.

Dismantle the cartridge

Depending on the method of attaching the cartridge mechanism, disassembly methods will vary.

Threaded connection

It is necessary to disassemble such a design in this order.

  1. Gently loosen the locking screw.
  2. We unscrew the cartridge counterclockwise, if the thread is tightened to the conscience, we clamp the tool shaft in a vice. To unscrew, use a gas key. Then we remove the device and examine it for integrity and serviceability.
  3. If the drill bit is jammed in the lips, then we apply not strong, but accurate hammer blows using a punch on the cams from above.

Installation is carried out in reverse order. When tightening a new device, the shaft must lock from turning free hand. Last we twist the locking device. To help home craftsmen video:

Cone connection

It is quite easy to remove the cartridge from the conical part of the shaft. The drill kit should have a special device for this purpose, but many experienced craftsmen use this method: they turn the tool upside down with a drill, fix it and evenly hit the back of the device with a hammer and knock it off the shaft.

After dismantling it is necessary sand conical surfaces with an emery cloth, if there are scuffs on the surface, then remove them with a file. The new cartridge is installed in place even easier. with the blow of a mallet on top, it sits tightly at the junction.

Users need to remember that removing a drill or other attachment when stuck in a chuck requires certain skills and the ability to handle locksmith tools, but in any case, you must dismantle the device. If the drill cartridge is out of order, then it must be replaced.

How to Insert a Drill into a Bosch Hammer

Hello! The question of how to insert a drill into a puncher can mean two different things to different people:

  • One is wondering how to install a drill, which they mistakenly call a drill.
  • The second one needs to know how to install a drill from a drill

This article will highlight both aspects.

How to insert a drill?

How to Insert a Drill into a Bosch Hammer

A simple, it would seem, question, which, however, may present some difficulties for inexperienced users who are first holding a hammer drill.

There are two installation methods.

  • One of them is simple. you need to immerse the shank of the drill in the cartridge until it clicks. After that, he will not fall out.
  • The second method requires pulling back the cartridge skirt before installation. That is, pull it towards the tool body and, holding it in this position, stick the shank into the seat.

The first method is usually used on all professional devices. Makita, Bosch, DeWalt, Hitachi, Metabo, AEG, etc., as well as on branded household models. Skil, Ryobi, Black-and-Decker, etc.

The second. on cheap Chinese units. This, for example, Caliber, Bison, Patriot, Kolner, Omax, Whirlwind and a bunch of others. True, it is worth saying that among them there are models where installation is also carried out in a more convenient first way.

Video: How to Insert a Drill into a Bosch Hammer


In this case, extraction in both cases is carried out by pulling the skirt towards the body.

How to insert a drill drill into a hammer drill?

In this case, you will have to use an adapter. It is an ordinary cartridge like an electric drill (key or quick-clamping. no difference), into which an adapter is screwed, one end of which has a thread, and the other has nothing other than the same shank as the drill.

Cartridges can be with different threads. Usually, for our case, they are used either 1/2 inch or metric M12. Accordingly, the adapter must also have a similar threaded fit.

The adapter is screwed into the cartridge. Then, for reliable fixation, the supplied screw having a left-hand thread is screwed into it from the inside of the cartridge.

Now the assembled structure needs to be thrust into the hammer drill just like the drills are installed in it. And in the end we get, in fact, an electric drill, in which, however, the cartridge will have some backlash.

There is no need to work in shock mode. the assembled adapter will not stand up and will quickly fail.

Lucky for those who bought the unit immediately with such an adapter. In addition, there are such models of perforations that have two chucks replacing each other. one for drills, the other for drills.

The advantage of this configuration is that in this case there is no backlash that is available when using the adapter. So the puncher is already becoming a completely full drill. But overpay for such a model, of course, have to.

That’s actually all the information on installing drills and drills in a punch. I hope it was clear. I say goodbye to this. until we meet again!

Bosch Punch Drill Lubricant

I welcome you to my site! This article will discuss the lubrication of a rotary hammer. The operation of this tool requires not only a simple respect. Be sure to periodically lubricate the gearbox and cartridge.

In this case, the gearbox, of course, is already lubricated from the factory. But over time, the grease leaks somewhere, dries somewhere. In addition, it is intended only to reduce friction, and not to eliminate it. Therefore, one way or another, and the parts still rub against each other, due to which fine metal dust gradually forms, which remains in the lubricant.

As a result of such mixing of metal and lubricant, the properties of the latter are gradually lost and the wear of parts is accelerated.

Inexpensive Chinese rotary hammers can be poorly lubricated at the factory. Experienced service center masters recommend after disassembling even a new such device, disassemble and grease it immediately

The cartridge from the factory is dry. Here, in fact, it is not the cartridge itself that is completely missed, but only its place that is in contact with the drill, since it is in it that strong friction occurs, without reducing which the cartridge itself and the drill stem can be damaged.

So, below we will consider how and how to lubricate these elements. An SDS puncher with a horizontal engine arrangement will be considered, since it is in the vast majority of cases that home masters use it, and the article is mainly written for them.

How to lubricate a hammer drill

Different types of greases are used to lubricate the gearbox and drill chuck.

Gear lubricant

It uses a special lubricant, which should be called. gear. It can be like under the brands under which the perfs themselves are produced. Makita, Bosch, AEG, etc.

Bosch Punch Drill Lubricant

But it can be released by a company that deals with this particular type of product, for example, Ravenol, Shell, Xado, etc.

Some use for this purpose simple lithol or salidol. But compared to special lubricating products, they dry out faster and do not eliminate friction as much as necessary.

Drill Grease

Everything is exactly the same here. Special lubricants for this purpose are called. for the Boers. And also usually produced by the same companies that do the punchers.

Video: Bosch Punch Drill Lubricant


For lack of special grease, you can use graphite. But it does not so well remove heat from the shank, and this is important, since sometimes with prolonged use the shank can be flattened, which is why it is then difficult to remove it.

Lubricate the gearbox

You will need to disassemble the tool body. Follow the steps:

  1. Disassemble the cartridge. To do this, first remove the rubber ring. Then pry off with a screwdriver and remove the snap ring. Next, the outer casing of the cartridge is carefully removed, and then the clamping ring, ball and spring are removed.
  2. Now disconnect the mode switch. This is done differently depending on the model. At the end of the article, I gave a number of links to videos that describe how it is shot on a particular model. If among them is not your unit, then you can look at any of these to understand the principle. And then, I think, it will not be difficult for you to disconnect it from yourself.
  3. Remove the collector from the brushes. To do this, unscrew the back cover of the case and remove the brushes.
  4. Unscrew the self-tapping screws that longitudinally tighten the case, and disconnect it.
  5. Remove gearbox with motor armature.

Now thoroughly flush the gearbox itself, as well as the inside of its housing. Washing can be carried out, for example, with gasoline.

After that, first the most critical parts are smeared. And then the entire gearbox is completely enveloped in grease.

Well, it remains to collect everything in reverse order.

Lubricate the chuck and drill shank

This operation is very simple, so its description will be quite short.

Just take the lubricant and add it directly to the cartridge. Another option involves applying it to the shank and then installing it in the socket of the cartridge. But no one forbids combining these two methods for reliability.

Care must be taken to ensure that grease is constantly present and add new as needed. If this procedure is neglected, the liner will overheat, which will lead to its separation from the rest of the drill or to flattening. Therefore, do not be lazy and add.

That’s all you need to know by cartridge and liner.

As promised, I enclose at the end of the video link with the switch disconnected:

This is all the information that I have on the lubrication of the punch. I hope it was clear and accessible. I say goodbye to this. until we meet again!

Husqvarna Dms 160 Diamond Drilling Rig

  • Husqvarna Dms 160 Diamond Drilling Rig

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DMS 240 electric drilling rig for various types of work. The most powerful machine in our line of drilling rigs with stands. An ideal system for drilling holes up to 190 (250) mm in walls, floors and roofs. The stand easily tilts, the rear support is equipped with a rigid fixation system for stable drilling at an angle. Suitable for drilling canals for ventilation and plumbing, garbage chutes, installation of barriers and road signs. New carriage Drilling stands are equipped with one- and two-speed carriages of a new design, have a quick-disconnect connection for the installation of drilling machines. Lightweight design Lightweight aluminum base plate. Overload Protection Increases productivity and extends machine life. Transport wheels The rack is equipped with transport wheels.

Diamond drilling rig with HUSQVARNA DMS 240 stand art.9651736-03 It is a fully functional drilling system for a wide variety of applications. This is the most powerful rack system in the Husqvarna range of drill rigs. The stand can be tilted and equipped with a convenient carrying handle.

The two-speed carriage gearbox allows you to select the optimum feed rate depending on the operation

Lightweight aluminum base plate.

Electronic overload protection avoids overheating and prolongs product life.

HUSQVARNA DMS 240 Drilling Machine. Comes with wheels for easy transport.

HUSQVARNA DMS 240 Drilling Machine Features

If used improperly or carelessly, the machine can be dangerous and cause serious personal injury! For safety and convenience with the drill always use:

  • Proven safety helmet
  • Proven Headphones
  • Proven safety glasses or mask
  • Respirator

DMS 240 is an electrical installation designed for drilling various concrete and stone materials. The drilling machine has a simple modular design and is easy to assemble. The engine must run mounted on a stand. The drill has two gears. The engine has double insulation. When overloading and pinching the crown, the protective system cuts off the power supply! The Husqvarna DMS 240 drilling machine is water cooled. To cool the engine, let the machine idle for 1-2 minutes. It also blows dust and dirt from the engine, thereby extending the life of the machine.

1. The switch
2. Carbon brush cover
3. Plate mounting on the stand
4. Drilling spindle
5. Gear selector
6. Water supply fitting
7. Residual current circuit breaker PRCD

Stand for drilling walls, floors and ceilings. The stand of the DMS 240 drilling machine is equipped with a stove for quick fastening of the engine. The base plate is made of aluminum and therefore has a light weight. The plate has a gasket vacuum fastening. The set of wheels is removable. The column can be tilted 0-60 °. The carriage has two gears: direct. 1: 1 and high. 2.5: 1. The feed lever can be used to adjust the support leveling screws and the desired column tilt.

    Ceiling stop screw

Depth and Tilt Scale

Vertical and horizontal level gauges

Column tilt lock screw

Carry handle

Quick Install Plate

Wheel kit (removable)

Base plate with integrated vacuum function

Vacuum fitting

Vacuum cap gasket

Base plate vacuum

Hex 3 mm and 4 mm

DMS 240 electric drilling rig for various types of work. The most powerful machine in our line of drilling rigs with stands. An ideal system for drilling holes up to 190 (250) mm in walls, floors and roofs. The stand easily tilts, the rear support is equipped with a rigid fixation system for stable drilling at an angle. Suitable for drilling canals for ventilation and plumbing, garbage chutes, installation of barriers and road signs. New carriage Drilling stands are equipped with one- and two-speed carriages of a new design, have a quick-disconnect connection for the installation of drilling machines. Lightweight design Lightweight aluminum base plate. Overload Protection Increases productivity and extends machine life. Transport wheels The rack is equipped with transport wheels. HUSQVARNA DMS 240 diamond drill rig art.9651736-03 is a full-featured drilling system for a wide variety of applications. This is the most powerful system in

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Accessories

Tank with electric pump Husqvarna WT 15

The powerful lithium-ion battery and charger WT 15 and the new wet cutting kit with a sequential adjustment water valve ensure efficient operation with less water consumption and sludge volume. Well-protected pump The pump is located inside the water tank, where it is well protected against damage during transport or careless handling. Convenient transportation When transporting the WT 10, the water hose is conveniently wound around the replaceable lower part, while the end connector is located in a special compartment. Two-speed pump The electronic circuit of the pump contains a built-in function to increase productivity. When the switch is pressed for 1.5-2 seconds, the pump starts to work at double speed and deliver twice as much water. This feature is especially useful when used in conjunction with Gardena sprayer to clean the machine after work. Of course, this function can be used if cutting for some reason requires.

Video: Husqvarna Dms 160 Diamond Drilling Rig


Husqvarna sump 110mm

The use of sludge collectors in the operation of diamond drilling rigs allows the collection of dirt generated in the process of creating holes. They can be used when working in both horizontal and vertical position. This collector is suitable for diamond crowns with a maximum diameter of 110 mm. Designed specifically for Husqvarna rigs. The collector consists of a metal casing and a branch pipe to which you can connect an industrial vacuum cleaner.

Husqvarna catchment 132mm

The use of sludge collectors in the operation of diamond drilling rigs allows the collection of dirt generated in the process of creating holes. They can be used when working in both horizontal and vertical position. This collector is suitable for diamond crowns with a maximum diameter of 132 mm. Designed specifically for Husqvarna rigs. The collector consists of a metal casing and a branch pipe to which you can connect an industrial vacuum cleaner.

Husqvarna water collector 160mm

The use of sludge collectors in the operation of diamond drilling rigs allows the collection of dirt generated in the process of creating holes. They can be used when working in both horizontal and vertical position. This collector is suitable for diamond crowns with a maximum diameter of 160 mm. Designed specifically for Husqvarna rigs. The collector consists of a metal casing and a branch pipe to which you can connect an industrial vacuum cleaner.

Husqvarna water collector 210mm

The use of sludge collectors in the operation of diamond drilling rigs allows the collection of dirt generated in the process of creating holes. They can be used when working in both horizontal and vertical position. This collector is suitable for diamond crowns with a maximum diameter of 210 mm. Designed specifically for Husqvarna rigs. The collector consists of a metal casing and a branch pipe to which you can connect an industrial vacuum cleaner.

Husqvarna water collector 220mm

The use of sludge collectors in the operation of diamond drilling rigs allows the collection of dirt generated in the process of creating holes. They can be used when working in both horizontal and vertical position. This collector is suitable for diamond crowns with a maximum diameter of 220 mm. Designed specifically for Husqvarna rigs. The collector consists of a metal casing and a branch pipe to which you can connect an industrial vacuum cleaner.

Husqvarna water collector 65mm

The use of sludge collectors in the operation of diamond drilling rigs allows the collection of dirt generated in the process of creating holes. They can be used when working in both horizontal and vertical position. This collector is suitable for diamond crowns with a maximum diameter of 65 mm. Designed specifically for Husqvarna rigs. The collector consists of a metal casing and a branch pipe to which you can connect an industrial vacuum cleaner.

Husqvarna V-shaped water collector 350mm

Husqvarna catchment collector, whose V-shaped design allows you to work with large diamond crowns with a maximum diameter of 350 mm. Carries out the collection of contaminants (sludge) that occurs during the operation of drilling rigs in the wet way. Keeps the workplace clean. It can be used only when drilling in horizontal position. The collector consists of a metal casing and a branch pipe to which you can connect an industrial vacuum cleaner.

Husqvarna V-shaped water collector 700mm

Husqvarna catchment collector, whose V-shaped design allows you to work with large diamond crowns with a maximum diameter of 350 mm. Carries out the collection of contaminants (sludge) that occurs during the operation of drilling rigs in the wet way. Keeps the workplace clean. It can be used only when drilling in horizontal position. The collector consists of a metal casing and a branch pipe to which you can connect an industrial vacuum cleaner.

Water tank with Husqvarna hose 15 l

A pressurized water tank can be used when there is no nearby source of pressurized water. A few strokes of the pump are enough to create the required water pressure. The tank has a capacity of 15 liters and is equipped with a 3 m long water hose. The hose is connected to the wet cutting kit on the machine.

Husqvarna D825 M16 Diamond Core Set

Installation kit for air conditioners Husqvarna D 825 M16. It is used for drilling holes in masonry, building elements, concrete. Includes 5 crowns of the most running diameters, a connector, a centering device, adapters and extension cords. All elements of the set are made of modern, durable materials with increased wear resistance, which ensures high quality work. In a set of 5 crowns of the most running diameters, centering device, connector, adapters and extension cords. Weight is 6 kg.

Husqvarna Noise Canceling Headphones

The design provides pressure control within 20%. Lightweight elastic headband with soft pad. The ear muffs are identical to those on the Husqvarna helmet. Approved in accordance with CSA, ANSI, EN

Adapter for the Husqvarna 1/2 GM vacuum cleaner. 1 1/4 M

Adapter for the Husqvarna 1/2 GM vacuum cleaner. 1 1/4 M allows dust to be sucked through the inside of the instrument. This ensures perfectly clean operation. over, the drilling speed increases, which saves time. In the process of working with diamond drilling rigs, a lot of dust and debris is formed. In order to avoid pollution of the room, a vacuum cleaner is attached to the working equipment with the help of adapters. Husqvarna’s ergonomic adapter allows you to quickly collect dust through suction through the inside of the instrument.

Industrial vacuum cleaner HUSQVARNA S26

The HUSQVARNA S26 universal vacuum cleaner is a single-circuit dust removal system for wet and dry jobs. Thanks to its compact design and low weight (47 kg), it is easy to carry and ideal for small jobs. The compact, lightweight Husqvarna S26 vacuum cleaner is equipped with one powerful single-phase electric motor with separate cooling and can therefore be continuously operated throughout the day. Suitable for any construction, dismantling and restoration work, as well as for use with electric tools. The model has been thoroughly tested and tested in real working conditions, providing technological efficiency at the place of work in most applications and situations. The vacuum cleaner is designed to be connected to a 220-240V network, including in residential premises, it also has a low noise level. Three separate filtration stages lead to an increase in the working time between filter cleaning. The dust is filtered through a cyclone chamber, which separates the heaviest parts up to 95% of the dust in front of the washable main filter. HEPA microfilms are fully tested and certified to capture 99.99% of the remaining corrosion-resistant steel clamps, a welded frame with a dust collector platform and a robust steel handle make the Husqvarna S26 vacuum cleaner ready to serve for many years. Welded frame for easy transport. The HEPA13 high-performance particulate microfilter captures 99.95% of the remaining dust with sizes ranging from 0.15 to 0.30 microns. This ensures an efficient and safe dust collection even when sanding and working with gypsum dust. The Jet Pulse main filter filter cleaning system provides high airflow continuity through simple and efficient cleaning and ensures stable dust collection throughout the working day. The Husqvarna S 26 vacuum cleaner has an H level classification. The international standard for testing dry and wet dust collectors (IEC-60335-2-69, EN-60335-2-69) divides dust collectors into three categories: L. low level, M. medium level and H. high level, where level H meets the most stringent standards. The vacuum cleaner is equipped with a Longopac dust collection and storage system, which is a 22 m long tape, which is divided into bags using the clamps supplied with the unit. Husqvarna S26 is suitable for rooms where high suction and flow are required to eliminate airborne dust.

Husqvarna mask professional headphones

Husqvarna 5056653-48 Professional Headphones are designed to protect you from working noise. A transparent plexiglass shield will be a reliable barrier for flying stones, grass, dust when working with chippers, perforators, drills, lawn mowers and other tools. Additionally, you can mount a sun visor. Approved in accordance with ANSI, CSA, EN

Extension for diamond crowns Husqvarna 1.1 / 4 F. 1.1 / 4 M 1000 mm

Extension pieces for Husqvarna diamond crowns. to increase the maximum drilling depth of the diamond core. They are made of both steel and aluminum as a lighter option. Application procedure: at the first stage, drilling is performed with a standard-size diamond core, then the core is removed from the hole, an extension cord is screwed to the crown and drilling continues to a greater depth. The use of several interconnected extension cords is allowed. The use of extension cords when working with large-diameter crowns is not recommended, due to the difficulty of extracting large core samples. In this case, the use of elongated diamond crowns is recommended.

How to Know the Key Size for a Drill Chuck

How to Know the Key Size for a Drill Chuck

In the tools of any home master, a drill must be present. True, sometimes it becomes necessary to remove a cartridge from it. As a rule, such a problem arises when the device breaks down.

Any craftsman who understands at least a little bit of technique will be able to complete this task. But for a person who has never encountered this, it can be a big problem. To easily remove the part from the drill, you first need to study the principles of its fastening, and only then proceed with the replacement.

Cartridge classification

Exist several of their varieties:

  • Keyless types;
  • Collet SDS devices;
  • Cam types.

In quick-clamping elements, changing the bit or drill will turn out in seconds, without using any additional tools. They are divided into single and double coupling types.

In the latter version, to attach the drill with one hand, you have to hold the sleeve, and the second screw the other. In one-foot cartridges there is a shaft locking system that is triggered when replacing equipment. The disadvantage of such products is low fixation strength drills. In addition, the use of plastic parts significantly increases the risk of damage to the cartridge.

It is better to put cam cartridges on percussion drills and perforators. They are stronger, so they are often used to work in difficult conditions. In such products, plastic elements are not installed, and the fastening of snap-ins is carried out with a special key.

There are also collet SDS cartridges that were created in the 70s of the last century. There are two grooves in the shank of this design, the size of which is 10 mm.

In this system, part of the drill has to be screwed into the cartridge by 40 mm. It is fixed with locking balls. In addition, in the design there are 4 grooves, 2 of them are fixing, and the rest are used for guide wedges. The spindle of a device equipped with this design is automatically locked immediately after installation.

Mounting Methods

In any drilling tool, the chuck on the shaft is fixed by two methods: on the cone and using a threaded fastener.

In the latter embodiment, there is an inch or metric thread on the inner channel and shaft of the drill. In this situation, when repairing, many often have the question of how to change the cartridge for a drill. You can find out the type of thread and its characteristics on the body. For example, if 1-15M13x1.3 is knocked out, then it means:

  • M13. diameter metric thread;
  • 1.3 is her step;
  • 1 and 15. the maximum and minimum size of the drill shank.

Video: How to Know the Key Size for a Drill Chuck


When inch threads are used, the UNF designation is marked. Therefore, before changing the product, it is necessary to check whether the mounting dimensions correspond to the marking. Now almost all drills have an inch thread.

For tight connection, a locking screw is mounted on the shaft inside the device. It has a left-hand thread, in other words, it should be unscrewed clockwise.

Another fixation option involves application of morse cone. The end of the motor shaft is made in the form of a cone. The same conical part has an internal channel. Install the cartridge on the shaft cone. These elements are marked as B 10, B 12, B 16, and also B 18. A particularly similar method is popular in screwdrivers.

Dismantling the threaded chuck

To remove it you will need a screwdriver. She loosens a screw that is screwed into the tool spindle and installed inside the product. Then he twists from the spindle. As mentioned above, the internal screw has a left-hand thread, therefore, it rotates clockwise. True, the cartridge unscrews counterclockwise, since it, on the contrary, has a right-hand thread.

If the screw does not want to loosen, tap on it. through a screwdriver with a hammer. There should not be any difficulties with the cartridge; it can be easily twisted. Although in case of difficulties, you can use a wrench and gas wrenches. Attach the spindle to the drill first, and grasp the chuck last.

In addition, when the chuck operates on the chuck, a thicker hexagon can be installed to invert it. You also need to fasten the spindle with an open-end wrench. On most modern battery-powered drills, additional attachments are not required to secure the drill. However, changing the cartridge to them is very difficult.

When this doesn’t help to remove it, disassemble the tool body. Thus, it is possible to reach the spindle, since it is hidden when assembled. Then everything is collected back, but without the use of keys.

What should I do if the internal screw is damaged during the replacement process? In this situation, it is better to purchase an adapter for a cartridge for a cam type hammer drill, since a screw is included with it.

How to replace a conical instance?

Difficulties in removing the element mounted on the shaft cone should not appear. You can use a special device that is used to replace bearings.

But the easiest way is to place the tool vertically, while the drill will look down. Then you need to tap gently over the entire surface with a hammer until the cartridge breaks out of engagement. If necessary, grinding is performed. The new part is inserted with light strokes from above.

Drill change in drill

Often due to excessive load or improper fastening, the drill is capable of jam cartridge, in the usual way to get it will not work. What to do in this case? First, just try to cool the part. Quite often, this is enough to relax the fists and pull out the drill.

You can go the other way. To relieve jammed equipment will help tapping the fists. To do this, in the vice should fix the free edge of the drill and attach wooden plank to the cartridge. It is through her that tapping is performed. The chuck will loosen its grip from vibration and the drill can be easily removed. over, this method is suitable for owners of quick-clamping and classic fasteners.

But sometimes it is impossible to remove the tool without using grease. In particularly difficult situations, it is possible to solve the problem only after immersing the cartridge in vegetable or engine oil. Keep the product in liquid for about an hour. If you combine the methods, then removing the stuck drill will be much faster.

Bitten A Drill In A Puncher How To Pull Out

  • Bitten A Drill In A Puncher How To Pull Out

SDS-Plus drill mount, number of speeds. 1, the power of 850 watts, power. from the network, operating modes: chiselling, drilling, drilling with impact, wear indicator of carbon brushes, electronic speed control, weight 4.5 kg.

Price: 902. 06. 1 049 p.

Functions and Features

Kavechkin Anatoly

Lack of reverse is the smallest of the problems with this rotary hammer. God is with her, in powerful tools, not all of them exist, although the cost in half a thousand bucks somehow implies the presence of ALL possible features and convenient bells and whistles.
The saddest thing is that the protective sleeve is completely not designed for the power of this hammer drill. The choice fell on this model, as often it is necessary to go through the walls through, and quickly (installation of air conditioners) and a solid diameter. Naturally, you won’t get anywhere from the fittings. We constantly get on it. And such moments are death for this model. Fast and high quality.
See: during use, two cartridge changes and two gearbox repairs. In the last one I don’t remember one reason, and the second time gears were replaced, which lost half of their teeth.
All breakdowns are after wedges caught, all breakdowns are at our expense. The cost of the tool increased (including repairs) by another 50%. Sorry, how’s that?

Rokhlya Oleg

The punch is really powerful, but the problem is that, apparently, the designers very well saved on the quality of components. The main problem of this drill in sudden wedges, when you have to go through walls and ceilings through. Besides the fact that there is no reverse in it (all powerful perfs sin by this) and you have to pull out the borax with the help of a hammer and that same woman from a joke, the saddest thing is that the cartridge and gearbox breaks. Campaign, with the protection of the perfo serious problems.
The first cartridge had to be changed in just 2 weeks. The second in 2 months. The third. in a year. In addition, the gearbox was repaired six months later. the teeth of the gears fell. After a year with a slight re-trouble with the gearbox.
In general, the cost of repairs is already higher than the cost of this drill, which is already not small.

Video: Bitten A Drill In A Puncher How To Pull Out


Leonov Eugene

The boss bought so that there was a powerful hammer drill in the brigade. And he did not regret the money, it should be noted. And the unit is really powerful and convenient. A slip in another manifested.
There is no reverse on the punch. It is really powerful, so much so that it is able to plant a drill so that it is impossible to pull it out without a sledgehammer. Or another punch, with reverse.
They got stuck three times. The first time the drill sat down so that it was necessary to knock it out with a hammer. The perf then went to repair. Gearbox repair, gear replacement. The second time about Bosch, and after the third again went to repair. the cartridge spat out a snap. Under warranty, replace the cartridge. The second time we were told that the drill can be pulled out by another punch, with a reverse. And they did, now we always carry the second with us. In general, we are not looking for easy ways.

Nemaev Vlad

It was a matter of choosing it, buying it, dumping a ton of money, did not even think that Makita would begin to crumble in six months. At first, he repaired the cartridge due to the fact that a drill bit in concrete was wedged a couple of times, having felt the fittings. Shaken specifically. A month ago, the trunk was covered. Repair and parts, coupled with more than half a punch, cost. Unreliable model and expensive repairs.

Zapatiy Taras

Sivkov Oleg

Faithful friend, many meters of concrete passed together.

Drill Rack How to Use

I welcome everyone who looked at the light. The review will focus on, as you probably already guessed, the budget stand for a drill Caliber 96203. Of the interesting features of the model, a more reinforced design can be noted in comparison with similar racks from this price range and the presence of a vice for fixing workpieces. To whom it is interesting how the rack proved to be in work, I ask you to be welcome under cat.

General view of the stand for drill Caliber 96203:

Drill Rack How to Use

Brief TTX:

Equipment:

Drill stand Caliber 96203 comes in a blue cardboard box:

There is no additional protection during transportation, although on the other hand, all parts are metal and should not break.

The box contains the model name and brief specifications:

Assembly instructions are presented on one A4 sheet:

In principle, there is nothing difficult to assemble and everyone can assemble a rack.

Appearance:

Assembled stand for drill Caliber 96203 is as follows:

It is a good help for a home craftsman, who from time to time needs a small “drilling machine”, but due to circumstances there is no way to purchase it. I agree that this rack will not replace a full-fledged drilling machine, but for undemanding operations this option has a right to exist. If it is necessary to carry out small drilling works, it is quite possible to install either an engraver (dremel) or a simple electric motor. In addition, the main advantage of the rack is mobility, so if necessary, you can take it with you to the cottage or to the workshop (garage).

For those who do not quite understand why such racks are needed, I explain:

In total, if you are not involved in amateur design, assembling any home-made products and a drill, you only need to whip up a hole in a piece of wood or a block. most likely, you simply do not need a stand. If you occasionally drill any details or you just want to facilitate the work, but accuracy is not important. a cheap rack is enough. If you are engaged in modeling or various homemade products. choose a high-quality rack or desktop drilling machine. over, in addition to the rack you will need a quality hammerless drill.

I plan to use the counter at the country cottage. For precise operations, I have a Lerom BG-5158B bench drill, which I published a review on earlier. The “old man” RITM MES-600ERU, which has been working for 15 years, if not more, will act as a drill. Thanks to the standard landing diameter of 43 mm, the drill stood up like a glove:

The main condition is the presence of a lock (lock) on the start button of the drill, otherwise it will be inconvenient to use the stand:

The drill stand Caliber 96203 is a modular design. All elements are already initially assembled at the factory, the user can only connect the modules together.

Let’s start with the sole. It is an aluminum base with mounting holes, on which, if necessary, you can install any vice:

I would like to note that this model initially comes with a vise. There is a similar model (96202), but without a vice. It is slightly cheaper, but in my opinion, this savings is meaningless. The vise, although not perfect, is a good complement to the job:

On the bottom side, the aluminum base is simply strewn with numerous stiffeners, significantly increasing the rigidity of the structure:

The sole is made by injection molding. The wall thickness is 3.5 mm, which at first glance may seem insufficient, but this is not so. Compared to similar Chinese racks, whose thickness barely reaches 2mm, everything is much better here. But still I would like to see a steel or cast-iron base. The dimensions of the platform are about 150mm150mm, here is a small comparison with a box of matches:

The upper surface is milled, there are no distortions, the surface is rough to the touch. In completely “Chinese” racks, the upper surface is not finished and simply painted, which is why it often has distortions. Without a vise, the detail slides on them. The distance from the center of the base to the tube is 8.5 cm. The smaller this distance, the less all kinds of deviations from the perpendicular, especially in the versions of the racks with hollow guide tubes and frail mounting them to the base of the sole. Those. the smaller this distance, the smaller the lever is, therefore, it acts with less force on the "frail" places of construction. On the other hand, the greater this distance, the more dimensional part we can install on the sole and drill a hole at the desired distance. Here you need to choose a compromise.

Video: Drill Rack How to Use


At the base of the sole there are special cut-outs for attaching a different vice, as well as a central hole necessary for complete drilling of the workpiece, or protection against accidental drilling of the base. As mentioned earlier, this rack model is equipped with a simple vice. They are also made of aluminum alloy, have a sufficiently large stroke and the function of "accelerated" clamp:

The vice is not monolithic, which is why it is reinforced with several stiffeners:

The clamping jaws, as such, do not have a vise, so thin parts are not very confidently pressed:

When you press the part hard, the latter slides over a smooth painted surface and slides out. I recommend tearing off a layer of paint with rough sandpaper, the clip should become more confident. Volumetric parts are compressed quite well, especially wood or plastic. It is not worth it to abuse a strong tightening. nevertheless, the thread is cut in an aluminum base and can not withstand high loads.

By design, everything is trite and simple:

Pleased with the presence of a special orange button ("accelerated" clamp), which releases the thread. It is very useful when there is no desire to manually twist the vise handle and allows you to quickly move the clamping sponge to the desired distance.

For fixing the guide tube, a special hole in the base is provided, equipped with two screws:

The screws have a hex head, but there is no special socket wrench included. I hope the manufacturer corrects this annoying misunderstanding.

The guide tube itself is steel, about 1.9 mm thick, 24.9 mm in diameter:

The tube clamp at the base is very good, there are no backlashes at all:

Here I would like to make an important point. no need to try to tighten the screws with great effort. Since the base is made of aluminum alloy, the thread may tighten if it is tightened and you will have to look for a larger diameter screw and / or cut a new thread. The rigidity of this node is good, but when drilling large holes with decent effort, violations of perpendicularity are possible. The increase in the thickness of this node or the addition of stiffeners completely solved this problem. When drilling small holes, everything is fine.

Now the turn has reached the head part, in which the electric drill or electric motor is directly installed:

It is also made of aluminum alloy and coated with green paint. For the convenience of drilling there is a depth gauge:

As you can see from the photo, the maximum stroke is only 6cm. I would like to note that most racks just still have a working stroke of only 5-8cm, no more. This is enough for most jobs. A special collar with a landing diameter of 43 mm, clamped by a special screw, is designed for mounting a drill or motor:

If the drill has a smaller diameter or if you need to install, for example, an electric motor, a plastic spacer ring is included in the kit. Unfortunately, this rack does not have a restrictive ring on the tube, which is why when unscrewing the stopper, the entire head part of the rack still strives to “move down”. A kind of notches on the inner surface of the clamp would be completely useful in order to completely eliminate the slightest rotations of the head part around its axis.

The principle of operation is quite simple. The head of the stand with the drill installed is fixed to the steel tube with a screw. By pressing the feed knob, we make the entire head module move relative to this attachment point. A special steel guide rail in black helps in this:

Due to the presence of a rigid spring, the entire head module returns to its original position without additional effort. There are only two points of contact between the head module and the pipe; there are no loose leaves:

Roughly speaking, the aluminum head creeps up / down the steel tube. Due to loose fitting, a slight backlash is observed. This is a distinctive feature of all drill stands. both expensive and cheap, just in the first backlash is minimal and there is the possibility of their adjustment (adjustment).

Inside the head module there is a special pin designed to limit the depth of drilling. a very useful function, especially when drilling blind holes:

That’s all in design. There are some comments, but the whole rack works and deserves attention. This is not the “plasticine slag” that can be found on sites for inexpensive.

Advantages and disadvantages of the rack:

Of the significant comments, I can note the following:

Now the good points:

Tool Requirements:

The accuracy and quality of the resulting holes, regardless of the type of rack used, directly depends on the following factors: tool feed (if rough, then this is the ratio of the pressing force to the speed of rotation of the cutting element), the condition of the bearing assembly of the drill (dremel / engine), straightness and sharpness of the cutting element (drill). Obtaining perfect holes using an impact drill is almost impossible. Due to the design feature, there is always a backlash of the chuck spindle, so with such a drill. only rough operations. For more precise operations, hammerless drills, drowsers, or simple electric motors are needed. It is desirable that the bearing assembly was not broken (there was no play), and the gear case itself was metal.

Brief conclusions on the rack Caliber 96203:

When drilling relatively soft parts (wood, plastic, color), as well as when drilling small holes in steel, there are practically no disadvantages. With this option, both percussion and hammerless drills will fit perfectly. A small play of the guide head does not have serious consequences on the quality of the resulting holes. When drilling hard metals, especially large-diameter drills with good feed, deviations are possible. With a small feed, the result is satisfactory.

I will tell you frankly. it’s not particularly suitable for precise work, since there is a small backlash in the head part and it cannot be corrected without assault. Stands for precision work are 3-4 times more expensive, and they also have their own “sores”, although not as serious. This is Sparky, Proxxon, Wabeko, Lux-Tools, Encore. At a price slightly lower than the cost of a desktop machine, their purchase is very doubtful, although in some situations they are indispensable, for example, angular drilling.

Do Not Drill Concrete Wall Drill

Sooner or later, most people living in houses with concrete walls need to hang a cabinet, a lamp, a shelf or a picture. At this point, the urgent question arises of how to drill a concrete wall. It is no secret that every home master at least once in his life has encountered this problem, but not everyone knows how to solve it. Many courageously torment the drill and their own strengths, but, not achieving the necessary result, they drop everything until the next attempt to make a hole in the wall. But the drill eventually breaks, and the shelves still stand somewhere in the corner of the room or gather dust in the pantry. But there are still options. you just need to know them and be able to use them.

Do Not Drill Concrete Wall Drill

What do professionals advise?

Concrete structures are strong enough and difficult to drill. In addition, quite often drills come across crushed stone, which is part of the concrete mix, from which wall and ceiling plates are formed.

Holes in concrete have to be made often enough, especially in the process:

  • finishing work;
  • furniture installation;
  • air conditioning suspension;
  • an additional electrical wiring device;
  • installation of plumbing.

There are two ways to solve the problem of holes in a concrete wall:

  • impact drill, and preferably a puncher, with a drill;
  • diamond drilling.

It is worth noting that it will not work to make a hole in a concrete wall with ordinary drills, so before you begin, you need to purchase drills with specially soldered plates from high-strength victorious alloy, which perfectly cope with concrete and brick. But for soft materials, it is not recommended to use them, since winning drills do not cut them, but crumble them.

What will help the home master?

In domestic conditions, when it is necessary to make 2-3 holes in concrete, you can get by with a conventional drill, without an impact function. For this, it is necessary to submerge the concrete drill with a strong metal pin (punch), which is the same size as the diameter of the hole, as the victory drill is immersed in the wall body. It is used in the case when the drill begins to "stop" in the wall. At this point, a steel punch is inserted into the hole and they begin to hit it with a hammer or sledgehammer, trying to crush too dense areas and punch the hole deeper. In this case, the pin is slightly rotated. Then a hammerless drill can come back into operation.

Video: Do Not Drill Concrete Wall Drill


All of the above steps are repeated one after another until the hole is enlarged to the required depth. This method is quite time-consuming and tedious, but quite acceptable for a pair of holes.

As an option, when drilling holes in concrete, you can use universal drills with diamond spraying. They are highly effective when working with metal, gravel and concrete. They can only be installed on a conventional electric drill, or on a tool with the vibration function disabled.

Work with a drill very carefully, otherwise it will fail too quickly. The advice that professionals give is to avoid overheating the drill, it should be moistened with cold water from time to time.

How to choose a tool?

For a larger scope of work, a perforator or drill having an impact function and drills with drill tips are needed. An impact drill combines rotary with reciprocating motion, which helps it to cope with lightweight concrete, and there is a simple answer to the question of how to drill a concrete wall that is supporting, the best assistant will be a puncher, the main purpose of which is to pierce concrete fencing. There is another difference:

  • hammer drill is designed for drilling holes of not more than 12 mm in diameter;
  • The puncher is capable of drilling large holes.

Drill reinforcement caught in the body of the concrete wall should be drills for metal.

What drill large holes?

Professionals who are constantly faced with the problem of drilling holes in concrete use special equipment, which includes:

  • powerful electric motor;
  • drilling drive;
  • diamond core drills of different diameters;
  • fixed on the base of the guide rack.

Diamond drilling allows you to make holes of large diameter. up to 40 cm. The process occurs quite quickly, efficiently, without excess dust and noise. Water is automatically supplied to the drilling site, which simultaneously cools the diamond crown and rinses off the dust.

During diamond drilling, the holes are precise in shape and clear in shape, with a polished inner surface. They can be made in various enclosing structures at any angle to the horizon, and the possibility of cracks or chips in concrete is completely excluded. Destruction occurs only at the location of the future hole.

Specialized firms are engaged in diamond drilling, so if necessary, drill holes in large-diameter concrete, you can invite the masters with their equipment. And it’s not necessary to buy a diamond drilling rig specifically for this.

How to Make a Drill From a Disk From a Circular

Designs and application

There are three main designs of earth drills:

    Garden. Usually these are two semicircular blades welded at an angle to one another. A manual drill of this design is used to organize holes for planting, which is why it is called "garden". But the pits make the same tool when installing poles for fences, arbors and other light buildings.

How to Make a Drill From a Disk From a Circular

An example of a homemade earthen garden drill

The auger drill differs helically wound by several turns of the spiral

Reclining blade. features of a drill for TISE piles

Making a garden drill

Garden drill. the most simple but effective design. It consists of:

    Cutting part. It usually consists of two steel semicircles with sharpened edges. The diameter of the blades is selected depending on the diameter of the pits that need to be drilled. For convenience, the blades can be made removable. bolted.

Pillar drill can be with a precast

This is a basic design, and there are many improvements to it. But first, let’s talk about what a land drill can be made of.

Materials

As already mentioned, the rod is most often made of a pipe of round or square cross-section. Diameter. from 3/4 ‘to 1.5’, profiled pipe can be taken from 2020 mm to 3535 mm.

Knives-blades can be made of:

  • sheet steel with a thickness of 4 mm;
  • saw blade for angle grinder of suitable diameter.

Zemlebur with blades from a saw blade for angle grinder

It’s easier to make blades from a saw blade. In this case, the cutting edges are ready. It will be possible to further sharpen the side edges so that the soil is cut easier.

A pico drill is made of different materials. a lot of its designs. They simply make a sharpened rod. Then you need a piece of bar of large diameter. The second option is to make something like a drill out of a strip. And yet. a combination of the two.

And finally. about the pen. It is more convenient if it is made of a round pipe. Its diameter can be selected according to the coverage of the palms. The basic requirement is that you should be comfortable.

Knives and method of fastening

First of all, you need to decide whether you do it yourself with removable or stationary blades. If the blades are removable, welds of thick steel are welded at one end of the rod. Shelves are made at an angle. so that the plane of the knives are divorced at an angle of 25-30 °.

After the shelves are welded, they make two or three holes. for fasteners. Then the same holes will need to be made in the blades, and install them on bolts of a solid diameter.

On one rod, you can have several sets of cutting blades. for pits of different diameters

In the discs themselves, in the center, you will have to cut holes. so that they fit more tightly to the rod, but this operation is also required with a monolithic version. with welded blades.

Sheet steel

If you are going to make the blades from sheet steel, cut out a template from paper, along it. a circle from steel. Drill a hole in the center. you will need to insert and weld the rod into it. Circle or square. depending on the selected bar. The dimensions of the hole are slightly larger than the dimensions of the rod.

Next, you need to decide what kind of blades you will make. from two halves of the circle (as in the photo above) or in the form of an open circle with offset edges. one coil of the spiral (in the photo below).

Manual one-turn drill

The edges must also be raised by 25-30 ° degrees. In this case, the drilling efficiency will be maximum. If you work on dense soils (clay, loam with a predominance of clay), the blades under load can reduce. To avoid this, add stops from a corner or a thick strip of steel.

Reinforcing a hand drill for dense wells

The blades bend due to the fact that the steel is used non-hardened, but it is almost impossible to find it in the sheet, and if it is possible, it is unlikely to be bent.

From the saw blade

If you have an old saw blade of a suitable diameter, you have found an almost perfect option. They use hardened steel, and it is elastic and durable. But such a disk cannot be bent, because it is cut in half and these halves are bred at the required angle.

Video: How to Make a Drill From a Disk From a Circular


The disk is cut in half

Such a homemade earthwork drill shows a fairly high productivity. Even used wheels have a well-sharpened edge. And to make drilling even easier, the do-it-yourself drill is also sharpened on the sides.

Modifications

In dense soils it can be difficult to cut the soil with large blades. In this case, several blades of different sizes are welded onto the rod. Below, near the peaks, the smallest are welded, above, retreating a few centimeters. large. There can be three such tiers, a maximum of four. The entire cutting part should not be more than 50 cm, otherwise it is very difficult to work physically.

Cutting blades can be arranged in several tiers

If a drill is needed for shallow pits. for installing poles, etc., then this design is optimal. it has a relatively light weight, it is easy to work with it. The process of work is this — they lowered it into the hole, turned it several times — pulled it out and poured out the soil stuck between the blades. But if you need to drill deep pits, you will torment a small amount of soil from the depths. For such cases, a box for collecting soil is welded over the blades.

Homemade drill with a land receiver suitable for installing poles and piles

And all this. do-it-yourself drills. All of them are highly efficient. it’s much easier to work than purchased ones.

Auger drill

Due to the large number of turns, a screw drill creates significant resistance, that is, it is much more difficult to work with it than a garden drill. But the screws are used mainly in the presence of a mechanized drive. when they make a drill for wells of great depth. into water, the installation of underground probes for a heat pump, etc.

It looks like a screw drill

To make a homemade auger drill you will need several metal disks. The number of disks is equal to the number of turns. The disks are cut the same, in them, in the center, a hole is cut out for the rod, as well as the same sector. so that you can weld them.

A sector is marked in the rings, cut out

The discs are welded on one side, then, slightly stretching the resulting accordion, the seam is welded on the other side. On the extreme disks, rings are welded. The welded discs are put on the rod, the lower edge is welded.

It turns out such a big spring

Next, you need a winch. The blank for the screw is fixed, the winch hook clings to the ring and stretches to the desired length, after which the screw is boiled.

TISE pile drill

In the author’s version, the TISE drill is blades with a land receiver and a folding wider knife, which forms an extension in the lower part of the pile. But it’s inconvenient to work with such a projectile. a folding knife greatly interferes. Therefore, in some constructions it is made removable, but in general, it is recommended to drill the pits themselves with an ordinary garden drill, and to expand it, make a separately folding knife with a land receiver. So the work is easier and faster.

DIY drill for TISE piles. one of the options

A cropped shovel acts as a knife here, and the land receiver is made of a herring can. The knife is fixed movably; when lowering into the pit, it is pulled by a nylon cable tied to the end. Having reached the bottom, the cable is weakened, the scapula begins to cut the sides of the pit, forming the necessary expansion.

In the photo below. the second version of a homemade drill for TISE piles. The design is more complex, but also more efficient. The plow-blade is made of a piece of spring, ground and welded to the hinged structure on bolted joints.

complex design

Dredger. from an old propane tank. The collection of land occurs from below, because the receiver is made with a rounded bottom. It has two holes, their edges are sharpened.

This shell works well even on thick clay. However, to reduce friction, the well must be constantly moistened with water.

Blueprints

A do-it-yourself drill is good in that its design is “sharpened” for the owner. In the manufacturing process, each makes his own changes, then many more modify the product. But without basic drawings it can be difficult to do. This engraving contains several drawings with the sizes of various drills. As you know, the sizes are arbitrary, they can and should be changed, adjusting to the size of the required wells.

Shovel drill

For planting plants to make a serious design does not make sense. In this case, you can make a garden drill from a shovel. Choose a high-quality shovel made of good steel, apply marking, as shown in the drawing. According to the markup, it will be necessary to cut out two small fragments, cut the lower part in the middle to a depth of 30 cm (in the photo).

Then the edges are bent one forward, the other backward, the petals formed in the lower part are bent to them. The resulting seams are boiled outside and inside.

Soft Soil Drill

If the soil is soft, the usual design does not work very well. For such cases, there is a special drill with an elongated cutting part. It is a kind of glass with slots on the sides. The cuts are equipped with cutting edges. They are best made from well hardened steel.

Soft Soil Drill

This drawing shows an interesting handle design. it can be rearranged as the length of the rod increases.

Basic drawings of auger and garden drill

Both of these units work well, but you often have to remove the garden, and it’s harder to rotate the auger. Choose according to your own preferences.

Auger and garden drill for land of different densities

Detailed drawing in projections of auger drill

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