How to disassemble the mechanical part of the perforator. Dismantling the electric part
How to disassemble Electric Hammer tool and find the issue
Repair of the mechanical part of the punch Makit 2450 and 2470
Due to dust, dirt and moisture, internal grease over time becomes solid and does not fulfill its purpose. The perforator begins to work with an extraneous noise. Starting the repair of the perforator, be sure to read the attached instructions for disassembling, lubrication, assembly of the monitoring units of the perforator Makita 2450, 2470. The scheme of the perforator Makita 2450 and 2470 will help to correctly disassemble faults, find defective parts. And we will also tell you how to disassemble the punch Makita 2450.
Dismantling the punch Makit 2470 begins with the removal of the handle of the mode switch.
Mechanical malfunctions of Makita 2450 and Makita 2470 perforators
The frequent mechanical malfunctions of the performers of Makita include:
- Destruction of a rapidly supporting cartridge;
- The failure of the bearings;
- Breakdown of the shock mechanism;
- Wear of the punch trunk;
- Wear of the rubber bands of the box and drummer;
- Damage of the gears.
Repair of the perforator cartridge is carried out to replace the anthers and rubber ring, as well as a conical spring and a steel ball that provides a clamping working tool (drill). This is indicated by the fact that the working tool? Namely a drill, is poorly held in the cartridge.
The main reason is the wear of a steel ball 7.0 pos.20, art. 216022-2. Ball wear comes from contamination of the cartridge trunk channel due to dust and dirt from the dust.
The general view and device of the Makit perforator cartridge is shown in the photo below.
Repair of the Makita 2450 perforator cartridge with your own hands is easy. The cartridge must be disassembled, released from the old lubricant, throw rubber parts, replace defective.
Complex malfunctions require knowledge of the mechanical part of the punch Makit 2450.
Having determined the nature of the makit perforator malfunction, proceed to disassemble the mechanical part called the gearbox.
Disassemble the mechanical part according to the attached video. Free it from the old lubricant. Carefully inspect all the details, their integrity, wear level. All rubber products with any disassembly require replacement.
Consider the repair of the punch trunk. We will analyze the mechanism completely. Video disassembly, lubrication and assembly of the punch Makita
Repair of parts of the punch barrel Makita 2450
Remember! In the lower part of the case, the rotor is held by electric brushes, which must be removed.
At the next stage, the rotor must be disconnected from the extracted mechanism. The rotor is disconnected from the mechanism simply by pulling out, since it is kept due to the friction of two scobed gears.
It turned out such a dirty knot.
Now we need to separate the shaft of the shock mechanism.
Most often rubber rings wear out, boiler pos. 24, compressor spring pos.Eighteen. And the details of the cylinder.This is how the parts of the trunk wear out and destroy when the tool is improperly operating.
Consider the most difficult malfunction. Failure of the shock mechanism. The characteristic signs of the failure of the shock mechanism are the lack of a blow and the unpleasant noise of a working punch in the “blow” mode.
Such a malfunction is characteristic of those perforators that during operation were greatly pressed to the processed surface. After disassemble the gearbox, remove the fragments and pieces of foreign objects. We find a faulty detail and clean everything from the old lubricant.
Very often the boiler poses is destroyed.24, art. 324396-8, which is part of the barrel.Metal ring pos.27. Art. 324216-6.Reject damaged parts, replace with new ones, cover with a thin layer of grease. Details are ready for assembly. But more on this in the next article.
The procedure for disassembling and assembling the tool
How to make out the punch Makita at home? It is possible to assemble and disassemble the device yourself.
The disassembly process is simple, it is important to observe the entire sequence step by step, so that later you can correctly return everything to place:
- Remove a fast.Free distributor.
- Unscrew the screws connecting the body of the gearbox of the mechanical department.
- Remove the black cover, first pressing on the front of the shaft.
- Remove the mechanical part from the green side. For this, first unscrew the three connecting screws that hold the lid. After that, remove the lid, remove the coal brushes and release the springs of the holders of the brushes.
- After the mechanical unit is released, it is required to disconnect the rotor, which is fixed in it and is pulled out with a slight swaying.
When this process is completed, they continue to analyze the mechanical block of the shock node: you need to remove a couple of bolts in the case. Then the intermediate shaft should understand. To do this, the following details are pulled out in series according to the scheme:
- Ring, bearing,
- Gear with straight teeth,
- Friction bearing,
- Flat washer,
- Bearing 606,
- Stop ring S-707,
- Compression spiral,
- Clutch clutch.
The next step is the disassembly of the shaft of the bars of the debt, which is pulled out of the case, and the cylinder is taken out of it. The following actions are the removal of the piston connector, flat goals and drummer. If desired, you can disassemble the shaft itself, the process is also recommended to be carried out sequentially, gently placing all the details on the table.
After disassembling the electric part is carried out, in which the stator, switch, rotor, coal brushes and holder are removed for them.
The assembly of the device occurs in the opposite order strictly according to the list. It is recommended to apply fresh lubricant material to all parts, clean the case with gasoline. If you need all the spoiled details replace with new.
The mechanical part of the perforator
We will figure out how to disassemble the punch 2450 for the repair or maintenance of its mechanical nodes. To do this, you will need two screwdrivers under the straight slalit. One of them should be no more than 4 mm wide. A regular cross screwdriver and a kiyanka with a rubber boy will also come in handy. You also need to bend a small hook from a hard steel wire to extract stop rings.
Capture for SDS drill
Consider how to disassemble the cartoras of the Makita punch. First you need to free the clip for drills from the anthers. This is a protective rubber cap. It is removed simply. Grab it with your fingers and pull it off the trunk.
Next, you need to put one of the screwdrivers with a ring spring to free the casing. To do this, you need to press on the latter so that a compression spring contracts. After removing the ring spring, the casing is easily removed from the barrel.
Then you need to carefully remove the fixing ball in the cartridge. We remove it from the mechanism after removing the figure washer. Now you can remove the compression spring and the last lock washer. The cartridge is disassembled.
Hammer 2601. Complete disassembly and lubrication of the trunk portion
The main capture malfunctions for the SDS drill:
- Wear of protective anthers.
- Weakening of the locking ring.
- Wear of a fixing ball.
- Loss of elasticity of a compression spring.
These defects can cause malfunctions, both the reliability of the clip of cutting nozzle and the entire work of the perforator. The repair of the unit is in full replacement of the failed parts for new. Already knowing all the steps for disassembly, with the installation of entire elements in the reverse sequence there will be no difficulties.
But the ball balloon will require special attention. Suitable only with a diameter of 7 mm. In this case, an error of only 1 μm is allowed. The ball must be planted only on the lubricant recommended by the manufacturer. You still need not to confuse the correct position of the compression spring. It is put on the shaft with a narrow side to the body.
After assembly, performance is checked. Clutching any suitable drill in the cartridge, you must try to extract it, pulling it by the working part. He must only extend by 1 cm and stop in place. And the absence of any backlash will indicate the correct assembly and installation of the drill.
The handle of the mode switch
When disassembling the punch Makita 2450, it is always necessary to start with this node precisely. First, the handle must be transferred clockwise to the extreme right position (“blow” mode). After that, the latch is removed. It needs to be placed with a screwdriver. Red button is removed with the spring.
Then the pen is transferred counterclockwise to the extreme left position (“Drilling” mode). After that, she will easily leave the grooves. Pinching the handle with your fingers, you need to pull it on yourself. Now it does not place anything to dismantle the very punch body itself.
With subsequent assembly after the maintenance of the tool, it is necessary to perform actions in the following sequence:
- The switch handle is inserted into the planting nest. At the same time, a characteristic click should sound, and the direction of the toggle switch indicates the “Drilling” mode.
- The switch is transferred clockwise to the “blow” position.
- After that, he immediately returns to the position of “drilling”.
- A spring is inserted into its groove and propped up with a red button.
- On top of the knot is fixed with a lining with a clip.
After removing the mode of the mode switch, you can easily remove the perforator body. To do this, you need to unscrew 4 screws from the end of the tool. After that, pressing on the end of the shaft, you can remove the main mechanical part of the punch from the body. The gearbox.
Further, the rotor is separated from the latter. But first of all, it is necessary to remove the electric brushes. After that, the gearbox is clamped by the right hand, and the rotor. The left. Together with smooth swaying, it is necessary to pull the knot in different directions. The rotor is kept in the gearbox only by braids.
Then the shock mechanism is disassembled. It is held by the internal case, and it consists of an intermediate shaft and the axis of the gearbox (trunk). First you need to unscrew two bolts. After that, the intermediate shaft is removed from the rolling bearing. He is also called “drunk”.
This is an important element that sets in motion the entire shock mechanism. If it collapses, then it must be replaced. It is removed with a regular screwdriver, which needs to be picked up and extracted, freeing a drunk bearing.
To dismantle the lobby of the gear, it is necessary to remove the locking ring and bearing. The latter is removed by a puller. To remove the gear from the other end of the shaft, you need to free the compression spring from the locking ring.
Before working with the gearbox, it is recommended to carefully clean its body from lubrication, since it may contain parts of the destroyed parts. For example, bearing. Or pieces of a scattered plastic separator.
Repair of the barrel punch
The barrel punch differs from the traditional one in that the electric motor is located vertically and it cannot work in drilling mode.
Therefore, due to the features of the design, in order to get to certain nodes, additional operations will have to be performed, in particular, to inspect the electric motor, it is necessary to remove the lower part of the casing or cover. And to replace the brushes, special technological holes are provided in the housing.
Replacing the power button
To replace this button, you will have to disassemble the case, disconnect it and install a new one in the regular place.
To replace the brushes, it is necessary to provide access to the brush node. For replacement, it is necessary to free the brushes from the castle, to install new.
If extraneous sounds are heard during the punch, then there is a high probability that the bearing has reached a certain degree of wear. That is, it must be replaced.
To do this, it is necessary to complete the full or partial disassembly of the case and gain access to the node in which it is installed. To dismantle it, a puller may require. By the way, some bearings can be fixed using locking rings.
Replacement of the cartridge
To replace the cartridge that has developed its resource, first of all, it is necessary to consider which company released this product. The thing is that the schemes of fixing the cartridges of different manufacturers have their own characteristics.
For example, to dismantle a cartridge in a perforator from Bosch, it is necessary to do the following manipulations. To loosen the stop ring, pull out the cartridge and install a new one in its place.
Repair of a drunk bearing
In some models of this tool, the shock impact is using a drunken bearing. With intensive operation, it may be destroyed.
To repair it, you will need a screwdriver with a flat helmet. The bearing after parsing the case must be extracted from the case, disassemble, replace worn parts and install it in place.
Repair of a raster sleeve and shock bolt
For the repair of the impact mechanism of the perforator, it is necessary to extract a plant sleeve, for this it is necessary to free the spring and the locking ring. After that, the shock bolt is replaced with a new one, or sent for restoration.
Replacing the sleeve
The sleeve fails quite rarely. To replace it, the old one must be removed from the aluminum case and instead of it installed a new.
Repair of the shock mechanism
The design of shock mechanisms differs from the type of punch. Therefore, the elimination of the cause of the malfunction has its own small differences.
In the barrel unit, the shock block operates on the basis of a crank. The main malfunction of such a device is the wear of bearings and rotating details. Their repair consists in installing new parts, while it is necessary take into account the strict compliance of the element brand for this model.
In the unit with a horizontal location of the engine, I am driven by the piston of the shock mechanism using a swinging (drunk) bearing. Most often, damage to this node occurs due to wear of such a bearing. When replacing it, special attention should be paid to cleaning the gearbox from possible small fragments of the damaged element and subsequent lubrication of the installed parts.
As well as the reason that the unit does not beat, can be a broken shock fight, which is also subject to replacement with a new element.
The analysis algorithm
To eliminate mechanical and electrical malfunctions (with the exception of the breakdown of an electric fork), you can not do without disassembling the body of the unit housing. The greatest popularity among masters, both home and professional, are the brands of punch, Makita, intercol, energy masses. The design of units of different manufacturers is approximately the same, therefore, the methods of disassembling the devices will be similar. But you should not disassemble the device completely, since it will be difficult to assemble it back. The photo below shows what a completely disassembled perforator looks like.
The dismantling of the cartridge
The disassembly of the unit to search for faults should be carried out carefully, with the inspection of each removed part. So that the assembly does not cause difficulties, the process of disassembly is better to photograph. If you have not found external defects on the device, then it is recommended to start disassembling its patron.
- First remove the boot (1) made of rubber.
- Gently, so as not to lose, use a screwdriver remove the stop ring (2) and then. The boot of plastic (3).
- At the next stage it is important not to lose A small ball, which is located under the puck (4). Remove the puck (4), the plate (5) and the spring (6), as well as the ball (7). It is with the wear of these parts of the drill that falls out of the cartridge. In some models of cartridges, additional balls and washers are possible.
We disassemble the case
If the unit housing is required, then you first need to remove the operating mode switch.
- Put the switch In the position of “blow”. Usually in this place a hammer is drawn on the case. In the case when this mode is not, put the switch in the position “hit drilling”.
- Next, press the button located on the handle of the switch, and turn it slightly below the icon with the image of the hammer to a characteristic click.
- After that, you need to put the switch with a screwdriver and, pulling it over, remove it. In some unit models, this switch can be screwed with screws to the body.
Dismantling the electric part of the perforator
To get to the electrical part of the apparatus, if there are suspicions that it may be a breakdown here, the following actions must be performed.
- Unscrew the screws holding the back cover and remove it.
- Twist the fastener that holds the network cable.
- Next, you should pull the wire from fasteners and remove the start button.
- Remove all wires attached to the stature.
- Remove the brushes by unscrewing the fasteners.
- Divide the body of the electrical and mechanical part of the device, unscrewing the corresponding bolts. Use “to separate”Flat “screwdriver.
- Remove the rotor from the gearbox. If you need to replace the bearings, use a special puller.
- Remove the air intake located in the body of the electric part of the perforator.
- Disconnect the stator. In order to make it easier to leave the casing, it is recommended to pull the stator with light tapping on the body with a wooden object.
Replacing the sequins of the electric motor
The main sign that it is time to change the brushes is the formation of increased sparking in the area of the electric motor collector, the Rapid heating of the holders of the brushes, as well as the smell of Gary. When the brushes are not worn out, the spark can only be seen under them. Otherwise, a spark is visible throughout the collector circle.
The presence of a spark in a collector circle with unprofitable brushes is a sign of bearings wear, violation of the insulation of the rotor or stator, the burning of the collector plates, the stator burning or rotor.
Another sign that the stator burned out, we can name the presence of sparks only under one electrode. If you have a tester, then you can check the stator and rotor: measure the resistance on the rotor and stature alternately. If it is the same on both windings, then everything is in order with the stator. If you have noticed your perforator with obvious signs of problems with a rotor or stator, you will have to carry the device to the service center for repair. As for the brushes, they can be changed independently.
To get to the place where the brushes are installed, you will need to disassemble the case in which the engine is installed, or simply remove the back cover. Opening the lid, you will see the brushes fixed in special holders. The photo below shows what these details look like.
Brushes that are installed on the engines of the perforator are 3 types.
- Graphite. Are durable, but since they are very solid, their rubbing to the collector does not happen perfectly, which negatively affects the last way.
- Coal ones. Easily rubbed to the collector, providing good contact, but wear out quickly.
- Coal-graphite-ideal option, as they are a mixture of 2 components that complement each other.
It is very important not to wait until the engine has a surge, and then change the brushes after that. Replacement is needed after their wear on 1/3 of the face value (8 mm)
Even if one brush has worn out less than the other, you still need to change both.
Pay attention to the state of the spring in new brushes and contact mounting. If the spring flies during the engine operation, then it will receive significant damage
Also, if the spring is weak, then it will not be able to provide good contact.
Be sure before changing the brushes, you need to clean the rotor and the stator from the remains of graphite or coal dust. You can clean these parts using technical or medical alcohol.
Next, you should fix the electrodes in holders and rub them to the collector. To do this, put a piece of sandpaper with fine granularity on the collector and rotate in different directions, launder the electrode. The grinding continues until the contact area of the electrode is rolled up. This will provide its best fit on the collector’s plates and, accordingly, the best contact.
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We will summarize and denote the main steps for caring for a perforator and maintaining it in good condition.
First of all, lubrication. You can replenish its stocks in some models without disassembling the body through the openings of the modes switches. In the barrel punch, there is a special cover in the front of this, but through it you can lubricate only a crooked-shaped mechanism and an intermediate gearbox.
For lubrication of the barrel and the shock mechanism, a test disassembly and washing is almost always required. The presence of solid particles in this mechanism leads to Rapid wear, jamming of the piston, biting the salted seals. It is also necessary to lubricate the shanks of the drills with thick.Consistent lubrication and maintain them always in clean and lubricated, this will significantly extend the life of the cartridge.
Like any other tool, the punch does not like dust. Therefore, when working on the slot of the air intake, it is better to pull the nylon stocking or other impromptu filter. But even with such precautions, the precautions should be periodically disassembled and bleed thoroughly, because even the slightest layer of dust on the windings greatly worsens the removal of heat.
Perforator repair: how to disassemble and assemble a punch with your own hands
Any punch, whether it be bison, intercol, Metabo, bort (board), Bosch (Bosch), DeWALT (Devolt), Hitachi, Makita, Sparky, you need to properly operate, treats it with care, timely prevention. Когда случаются поломки, некоторые из них можно устранить самостоятельно, но для этого нужно знать, как разобрать пеоратор, а потом как собрать пеоратор.
This tool is used for shock works, when removing old solid but fragile materials: brickwork, concrete, tiles. Before disassemble the punch, assault (Sturm), elitech (Elitech), Enkor, whirlwind, dester, wert, aeg, etc.D., you need to know what it consists of.
Different models of the tools differ from each other power and performed functions, but in all there are mandatory main systems and nodes.
- An electric motor with an anchor and a stator;
- Shock mechanism;
- Power button;
- Surprising coupling.
In the process of improvement appeared additional functions, which facilitate its application:
- Operating mode switch;
- Vibration system;
- A mechanism that fixes the tool in a position convenient for the operator;
- Limiter of the depth of penetration of equipment into the work surface;
- Dust cleaning of the device.
The equipment is special yolks and shock drills, which are installed in the cartridge.
The perforator works due to the fact that the rotation of the engine turns into shock-revolutionary movement nozzles. The motor drives the rest of the tool mechanism. User safety during operation provides a safety coupling. The piston drives a drunk bearing. He creates a shock effort. The perforator cannot serve forever, and its details and nodes break.
Each half performs certain functions.
Makita punch 2450 is a serious tool with which you can perform ordinary and shock drilling, as well as crushing. The design has a special dust protection system, the device is characterized by the presence of anti.Vibration, so the process of use is quite comfortable.
It is easy to disassemble the punch
Dismantling and repair of the cartridge
One of the frequent breakdowns that the owners of the perforators are faced with is This is the failure of the cartridge. In order to disassemble it, such an inventory will be required: screwdriver, hammer, pliers and an open key.
First you need to find a rubber coup at the end and remove it and the lock ring. After that, access to the working coupling will open, which needs to be shifted and removed by another stop ring. To unclench the rings, you can use a flat screwdriver. The next step will be the extraction of the spring and fixing balls. Now you need to remove the cartridge, for this you can use the vice and clamp the cartridge in them, take an open key and rotate the spindle for the baldnesses.
If the cartridge flew during the punch, this may mean that the cartridge case at the mounting site has become unusable. To eliminate this problem, it is enough to replace the locking ring with a new.
There are cases that while using A drill flies out of the cartridge. Then you need to disassemble the cartridge and determine what could cause. Attention should be paid to the following details: balls, a restrictive ring and a fixing spring. If any of them is spoiled, then you need to replace it, then the problem will be solved.
If, when disassembling the cartridge, it became clear that the inner cylinder has become unusable, then the cartridge must be replaced completely, since it is not subject to restoration. In this case, you can get all the details from the old that have not yet been worn out, they can be useful in the future if some of these components are worn in the new cartridge.
After the repair, it is important for the first time when working do not give strong loads in order to check the performance of the tool.
Conditionally, all the damage to the tool can be divided into two main groups. Electrical and mechanical.
Mechanical damage. Often to detect a mechanical type malfunction even by ear. The appearance of a rattle and increased noise during the operation of the device signal the operator about the need to conduct a check and repair of a perforator. And also it is possible to increase the vibration of the device and the appearance of an unpleasant odor from the device case.
Mechanical malfunctions include:
- Breakdown of the device that switches the operating modes of the device;
- Premature wear of rubber seals of the box and drummer;
- Damage to the shock mechanism;
- Wear of the unit barrel;
- A breakdown of working teeth of the gears;
- A cartridge malfunction to keep shock devices.
This type of breakdowns can also be accompanied by the appearance of an unpleasant odor from the housing of the device, as well as the presence of sparking when rotating the engine. Particular attention should be paid to the appearance of smoke and quick heating of the parts of the electric motor.
Electric type faults include:
- The device does not turn on;
- The failure of the start button;
- Clogging of the electric motor collector;
- Damage or wear of brushes;
- The presence of poor electrical contact in the device circuit;
- Loss of electrical properties (burning) of the rotor or engine stator windings.
Malfunction of the cartridge
The SDS cartridge consists of a fitting with one or two holes in which balls are planted, as a rule, with a diameter of 6.7 mm. Balls go freely in the holes while the plastic body of the cartridge is pulled back, in the usual position they are tightly tied by a spring through a massive steel ring.
To disassemble the cartridge, you need to push the front booth with a screwdriver and remove the locking ring from the fitting. The rest of the details are simply worn on the fitting and can be removed without additional manipulations, it is important only to return them to the place in the correct order.
As a rule, the main reason for the malfunction of the cartridge is the worn balls or the pushed plate and the clamping ring. Because of this, the equipment either does not hold at all, or flies out when working. You can get such balls in any quantities by breaking the bearing number 106. The landing holes and slots inside the sleeve have a much larger resource, but if the replacement did not give the expected result, you will only have to change the fitting assembly with the barrel.
Please note that the Rapid wear of the details of the cartridge occurs due to loose sealing anthers, both anterior and ring on the fitting. Sights of drills should always be maintained lubricated, and when drilling the ceiling, use a special dusting washer.
How to repair the perforator with your own hands? Video
Everyone who has once had to work with a perforator knows how difficult the operating conditions are. That is why the repair of the perforator with your own hands is such a popular request on the Internet. And today we will tell you absolutely everything related to the repair of this tool.
What do you need to know about the repair of the perforator?
Undoubtedly, the owners of such expensive equipment want their devices to be high.Quality, perform 100 % of their work.
First of all, you will be protecting you from serious breakdowns correct use of the tool, which we will talk about a little later. And, of course, the repair of the device on time.
In this case, any small failure should already become a cause for concern and preparation for repair.
- Unstable work of the perforator in working mode;
- The appearance of strange sounds when the perforator is turned on;
- The smell of burning;
- The perforator does not hammer, although there are no visible reasons for this.
As soon as something like this happened to your equipment, it means that it’s time to repair. Like any such work, it requires attentiveness, understanding the cause of breakdown and knowledge, how to deal with it. And your first step when repairing is the analysis of the tool for its components. For many, even this stage causes difficulties, and therefore it is necessary to know everything to the nuances. How, what and why!
We analyze the punch poet.Play. A quick search for breakdown
Just imagine that your tool suddenly stopped working or you urgently needed to replace any faulty part.
How to disassemble Electric Hammer tool and find the issue
The easiest way is to attribute the punch for repairs to the service center, but it takes time, which means that for some period it will stall your work. But if you know how the device is versed, it will be much easier for you to carry out other work.
In addition, this will lead to significant savings in funds, because it will not be necessary to spend money on paying for the services of repair centers.
- We proceed to the work, starting from the upper node: at first, a rubber tip is removed, after. A washer, a spring, the ball completes the work.
- After you removed the ball, we unscrew the screws that hold the case, remove the overlay on the handle, if it is available, and last we disconnect the stator wires.
- We extract a brush holder.
- The next stage is the separation of the gearbox and the case until the gap is formed. It is through it that we will extract the switch.
- After that, the perforator body is placed vertically, using a vice is fixed, and all its parts are carefully from the device.
Whatever breakage to you, clean the body. Sometimes it is dirt and dust that prevent the device from working normally.
Repair of the perforator independently step by step
For the repair of a device such as a punch, you should be as ready as possible, which will reduce financial and labor costs to a minimum.
It is good if you are more or less oriented in the design of the perforator, you know what parts and nodes it consists of, which will allow you to quickly replace the broken part.
Most often, the repair of the perforator boils down to the banal replacement of “flying” elements to which they include:
It is worth noting that the easiest way to repair light class tools is, given the fact that such a punch is perfect for construction work at home.
But breakdowns of more serious technology are much more complicated, and only professional masters can cope with them.
In any case, no matter what class the tool is interested in, find a model with a vacuum cleaner. This device will save you time to clean, and also make the work more safe, since it reduces the amount of dust.
Another problem is in the breakdown of windings, rewinding the anchor and the starter, which also arise due to dust. Repair consists in thorough cleaning and replacing those parts that cannot be repaired. However, “prevention” is a more reliable method. To do this, you need to clean the device once every two weeks, impregnate it with varnish or lubricant.
By the way, the choice of lubricants should be taken careful. So, there are several rules. The first is better to purchase a solution of the same manufacturer (Bosch, Makita, Encor), as the punch itself, in this case, oil or varnish will be approached perfectly.
If there is no such composition at hand, you are perfect for a diesel engine oil.
The second most popular reason for the breakdown is the wear of the brushes, it does not matter how much your tool cost. Even the most expensive models are subject to this problem. It is very easy to replace them: we analyze the punch according to the described scheme, we find worn brushes and put new ones in their place.
It is only necessary to correctly determine which of them is best used: coal, graphite or coal-graphite. So, graphite is distinguished by a long service life, however, due to the hardness of the material, the collector may suffer. Coal elements are distinguished by a short period of work, but they have high.Quality contact with other parts of the perforator.
The acquisition of the third option is considered optimal and inexpensive.
The main thing is to purchase elements suitable for this model. A similar problem often “haunts” cartridges that are subjected to maximum load. First of all, protect them from dust and dirt, washing the elements with a solidol.
But if the cartridge still broke, we will have nothing left but to change it.
Now you know how to fix a perforator and see that most of the breakdowns are reduced to simple cleaning or replacing faulty parts. But if you have sorted out the tool, but there are no visible reasons, it is better to take the device to the service center. Experts will find the reason faster and eliminate it.
Working rules or how to protect the device from breakdowns?
Prevention is an effective method that will avoid many breakdowns in the operation of the device. In this case, it implies the correct use. You should start with how to correctly insert the drill: we take it tightly by the cartridge and pull the axis of the spindle.