How to rewind the stator drills with your own hands. Stator rewinding (final phase)

Repair the drill. Stator calculation step.by.step instructions for rewinding the electric motor with your own hands

Many household devices and homemade structures use small power electric machines as a drive as a drive. Despite the high reliability of electric motors, their failure for a number of reasons is not uncommon. Given the relatively high cost of these devices, it is more practical to repair them, and not replacement. We offer to consider the possibility of rewinding electric motors at home.

As a rule, in everyday life, direct current collector engines and blessed asynchronous motors of alternating current are used in everyday life. It is the repair of these drives that we will consider. Information on the principle of action and design features of asynchronous and collector machines can be found on our website.

As for synchronous drives, they are practically not used in everyday life, so this topic is not affected in this publication.

Features of the repair of asynchronous machine

Problems with an engine of any type can have a mechanical or electrical nature. In the first case, strong vibration and characteristic noise may indicate a malfunction, as a rule, this indicates problems with the bearing (usually in the end cover). If the malfunction is not eliminated in time, the shaft can jam, which will inevitably lead to the failure of the stator windings. In this case, the thermal protection of the circuit breaker may not have time to work.

Based on the practice, in 90%, the failure of asynchronous machines arise problems with the stator winding (cliff, inter.flip circuit, short circuit on the case). In this case, a short.closed anchor, as a rule, remains in working condition. Therefore, even with the mechanical nature of damage, it is necessary to check the electrical part.

Preparatory work

First, we will figure out how to rewind the electric motor correctly. The first thing to do is determine the wire parameters and the number of turns in the coil. The Internet will help here. On the forums, people discuss such problems, and also talk about personal experience as they rewind engines.

IMPORTANT! It is necessary to find exactly the same model of the device, otherwise after the repair the “engine” may not start!

In the absence of the necessary information on the Internet, you can recognize it yourself when examining the “engine”. With severe burnout of the “styling” we find the whole section of the winding. It needs to be cleaned.

To save the wires from the carbon fiber, use solvents. Now the “coils” should not be sorry, they are no longer suitable. If it is not possible to clean the winding with a solvent, then you can burn it.

rewind, stator, drills, your, hands

There are various circuits of the electric motors. Before extracting the “coils”, you should pay attention to how they are interconnected. And then you can accurately copy their assembly.

The protruding top of the “styling” must be cut. To do this, prepare the appropriate tool, it all depends on the cross.section of the wire. The larger it is, the more serious the tool will be needed. The cut part must be divided into separate wires. It is more convenient to determine the cross section and number of turns.

Having removed the winding, we check the iron on which it was wound. Steel should be smooth without dents and burrs. Defects are able to damage the insulating layer of copper wires, which will lead to the next break. Therefore, all irregularities should be cleaned with sandpaper.

If there is soot in steel grooves, it should also be rid of it. This will help to avoid further difficulties when working with insulation and wires.

Do.it.yourself rewinding of an electric motor: step.by.step instructions

Many household devices and homemade structures use small power electric machines as a drive as a drive.

Despite the high reliability of electric motors, their failure for a number of reasons is not uncommon. Given the relatively high cost of these devices, it is more practical to repair them, and not replacement.

We offer to consider the possibility of rewinding electric motors at home.

Types of electric motors and features of their repair

As a rule, in everyday life, direct current collector engines and blessed asynchronous motors of alternating current are used in everyday life. It is the repair of these drives that we will consider. Information on the principle of action and design features of asynchronous and collector machines can be found on our website.

As for synchronous drives, they are practically not used in everyday life, so this topic is not affected in this publication.

Features of the repair of asynchronous machine

Problems with an engine of any type can have a mechanical or electrical nature.

In the first case, strong vibration and characteristic noise may indicate a malfunction, as a rule, this indicates problems with the bearing (usually in the end cover).

If the malfunction is not eliminated in time, the shaft can jam, which will inevitably lead to the failure of the stator windings. In this case, the thermal protection of the circuit breaker may not have time to work.”Burned” wires of the stator winding

Based on the practice, in 90%, the failure of asynchronous machines arise problems with the stator winding (cliff, inter.flip circuit, short circuit on the case). In this case, a short.closed anchor, as a rule, remains in working condition. Therefore, even with the mechanical nature of damage, it is necessary to check the electrical part.

Checking the winding

In most cases, the problem can be found in appearance and characteristic smell (see. rice. one).

If the malfunction cannot be established with an empirically way, we proceed to the diagnosis, which begins with the call to the cliff.

If one is detected, the engine is disassembled (this process will be described separately) and a thorough inspection of the connections. When the defect is not detected, you can state a break in one of the coils, which requires rewinding.

If the call has not shown the cliff, you should proceed to measure the resistance of the windings, while taking into account the following nuances:

  • The insulation resistance of the coils on the case should strive for infinity;
  • At a three.phase drive, the windings should show the same resistance;
  • In single.phase machines, the resistance of the starting coils exceeds these readings of the working windings.

In addition, it should be borne in mind that the resistance of stator coils is quite low, so it is pointless to use its low.class accuracy devices for its measurement, most multimeters include these. You can fix the situation by collecting a simple circuit on a potentiometer with the addition of an additional power source, such as a car battery.

Scheme for measuring the resistance of windings

The measurement methodology is as follows:

  • The drive coil is connected to the scheme presented above.
  • A potentiometer is set to current 1 A.
  • The resistance of the coil is calculated according to the following formula:. where Rk and Upit were described in Figure 2. R is the resistance of the potentiometer. the drop in the voltage on the measured coil (shows a voltmeter in the circuit).

It is also worth telling about the technique that allows you to determine the place. This is done as follows:

The stator released from the rotor is connected through the transformer to a reduced diet, having previously placed a steel ball to it (for example, from the bearing). If the coils are workers, the ball will cyclically move on the inner surface non.stop. In the presence of an interval short circuit, he will “stick” to this place.

Features of the repair of collector drives

In this type of electromas, mechanical malfunctions more often occur. For example, erasing brushes or clogging of collector contacts. In such situations, the repair is reduced to cleaning the contact mechanism or replacing graphite brushes.

Testing the electric part is reduced to checking the resistance of the anchor winding. In this case, the probes of the device to two neighboring contacts (lamella) of the collector, after the readings, is measured further in a circle.

Checking the anchor of the collector electric motor

Removing Stator Coil In Easy Way

The displayed resistance should be approximately the same (taking into account the error of the device). If a serious deviation is observed, then this says that there is an interval short circuit or cliff, therefore, rewinding is necessary.

Winding data from electric motors

This is reference data, so the most reliable way to get such information is to refer to the corresponding sources. These data can also be given in the passport to the product.

On the network you can find tips in which it is recommended to manually count the turns during rewinding and measure the diameter of the wire. This is a waste of time. It is much easier and more reliable for the marking of the engine to find all the necessary information in which the following parameters will be indicated:

  • nominal working characteristics (voltage, power, current consumed, number of revolutions, etc.D.);
  • the number of wires for one groove;
  • Ø wires (as a rule, in this indicator isolation is not taken into account);
  • information about the external and internal diameter of the stator;
  • number of grooves;
  • with what step the winding is performed;
  • The dimensions of the rotor and t.D.

Below is a fragment of the table with winding data for electric machines type 5A.

Step.by.step instructions for rewinding the electric motor with your own hands

It must be immediately warned that without special equipment and work skills, rewinding of coils will most likely be a useless occupation. On the other hand, negative experience is also experience. Understanding the complexity of the process is the best explanation of its value.

The first stage is dismantling

We give an algorithm for asynchronous machines, it is as follows:

  • Disconnect the drive from the network (380 or 220 V).
  • We dismantle the electric motor from the design where it was installed.
  • Remove the rear protective casing of the cooling fan.
  • We dismantle the impeller.
  • Unscrew the fastening of the end covers, after which we remove them. It is desirable to start with the front, after it is dismantling, the rotor will easily “come out” from the rear cover.
  • We pull out the rotor.

How to rewind the stator drill

Change of brushes. Frequent type of breakdown, this is the wear of the brushes of the motor, the change of which is made without the help of others with their own hands. From time to time, the brushes are certainly replaced without disassembling the drill housing. In some models, it is enough to turn the plugs from the installation windows and install new brushes. Other models, for the change, requires disassembling the case, in this case you need to carefully get the brush holders and extract worn brushes among them.

No need to expect the brushes to be small. This is fraught with the fact that the gap increases between the brush and collector plates. As a result, an overstra.formation occurs, the collector plates are very warm and there are variations to “retreat” from the base of the collector, which will lead to the need to change the anchor.

Find the need to change brushes is an option on high sparking, which is visible in the ventilation slots of the body. 2nd method of determining, it is a random “twitching” of a drill at one time.

Network cord. The cord is checked by an ohmmeter, one probe is connected to the contact of the network fork, the other to the cord. The lack of resistance shows the cliff. So the repair of the drill is reduced to the substitution of the network wire.

Diagnosis of the electric motor. In 2nd place, by the number of breakdowns of the drill, there is an option to put a malfunction of the motor parts and in most cases anchor. A breakdown of anchor or stator occurs for two reasons. Incorrect operation and poor motor wire. Domestic manufacturers with global naming use an expensive motor wire with double insulation with heat.resistant varnish, which significantly increases the reliability of the engines. Accordingly, in cheap models, the quality of the isolation of the coil wire is not sufficiently developed. Incorrect operation comes down to frequent overloads of the drill or long.term work, without interruptions for cooling the motor. Repair of a drill independently rewind the anchor in another stator, in this case, without special devices by non.partial. Only the change of the element is quite (only experienced repairmen will rewind the anchor or stator at home).

Stator rewinding at home

To change the rotor or stator, you need to disassemble the case, disconnect the wires, brushes, remove the drive gear as necessary, and remove the engine completely, coupled with the supporting bearings. Replace the faulty element and install the engine in the area.

Find a malfunction of the anchor of course by the corresponding smell, an increase in sparking, in this case, sparks have a radial movement in the direction of the anchor movement. Pronounced “burnt” windings can be met with visual inspection. If the power of the motor fell, but there are no above signs, then you should contact the measuring devices. ohmmeter and megammeter.

Windings (stator and anchor) are subject to only three damage. Interpreter electronic breakdown, breakdown on the “case” (magnetic circuit) and a break in the winding. The breakdown on the case is determined quite easily, it is enough to touch with a megammeter to be touched to at least what kind of winding output and magnetic circuit. Resistance of more than 500m shows a lack of breakdown. It should be noted that the measurements should be carried out with a megammeter, in which the measuring voltage is approximately 100 volts. When making measurements with a simple multimeter, you can not find exactly that there is definitely no breakdown, but they are determined that the breakdown is definitely found.

The interitic breakdown of the anchor is not easy, if, of course, it is not visually visible. For this purpose, you use a special transformer, which has only the primary winding and the gap rupture in the form of a gutter, to install an anchor there. With all this, an anchor with a personal core becomes a secondary winding. Turning the anchor, so that the workings would be alternately in the works, we apply a narrow iron plate to the anchor of the anchor. If the winding is short.closed, then the plate begins to rattles very much, with all this, the winding tangibly heats up.

rewinding of the stator of the power tool

Often, the inter.seal circuit is located in visible sections of the wire or an armature shirt: the turns happen bent, crumpled (t.e. pressed together), or they usually have any or conductive particles. If so, then you need to remove these circuits, by correcting the bruises of Shinka or extracting foreign bodies, respectively. Also, you will like the closure more found between the adjacent plates of the collector.

Find a break in the anchor winding of course, if you connect a milliammeter to the adjacent anchor plate and rotate the anchor evenly. A certain monotonous current will appear in the entire windings, the broken one will show or increase the current by another complete absence.

The breakdown of the stator windings is determined by the connection of the ohmmeter to the disconnected ends of the windings, the absence of resistance shows a complete break.

Revolutions and reverse regulator. The presence of the voltage at the input terminals of the inclusion button and the absence on the weekend shows the contacts of the contacts by another component of the circuit of the revolutionary control regulator. To disassemble the button of course, gently picking up the clamps of the protective casing and pulling it off the button case. The visual inspection of the terminals will allow us to judge their performance. Blackened terminals are cleaned of soot with alcohol or small sandpaper. Then the button is collected again and check for the presence of contact, if nothing has changed, then the button with the regulator must be replaced. The speed controller is made on the substrate and is quite flooded with an insulating compound, therefore it is not subject to repair. The next corresponding fault failure is the erasing of the working layer under the slider of the rheostat. A simple way out. The change of button is completely.

Repair of the drill button at home is likely only if there are certain abilities. Remember that after opening the body, some parts of switching will simply fall out of the body. You can prevent this from a smooth lift of the cover at first and the desirable sketch of the location of contacts and springs.

The reversal device (if it is not placed in the button case) has its own cracking contacts, therefore it is also subject to the disappearance of the contact. The disassembly and cleaning mechanism of the same, as well as the buttons.

When making a new revolution regulator, you should make sure that it is designed for a drill capacity, so at a drill capacity of 750W, the regulator must be designed for a current of more than 3.4A (750W/220V = 3.4A). And when, the regulator at the drill in the photo is not native, and so that it climbed into the case, the lower part of the trigger was cut off.

rewinding from A to Z.

To understand the difference in new batteries compared to the old version, it is necessary to test under load.

The batteries were subjected to comparative tests:

L1215, Article 4932 3526 58, 1.5 Ah, 18 VTH, based on the INR18650-15M L1220 banks 4932 430165, 2.0AC, 24W, on the base of the INR18650-20R banks, technical data from the manufacturer to the banks: accumulative battery is equipped with a board Protection: Testing Results: 1.compared to the old version of 1,500 tankers in the declared psosts 33.3 %. According to the test results, the superiority of the new battery is more than 50 %. T.e. the difference is really greater than stated. 2.The new battery has a lower internal resistance, and as a result: a higher voltage under load. more than the power of power, which is reduced to heating the battery. Summary: a new battery on the basis of the cells Inr18650-20R noticeably surpasses the old version and at a comparable price is preferable when buying.

And how much does Nm actually need ? The necessary theoretical retreat.

From sopromatam (torque) = τ (voltage in the rod) W (polar moment of the section equal to πd3/16)

The bolt strength class means the following: 1 digit. 1/100 of the nominal value of the strength of the strength, in MPa 2 digit. the ratio of the limitation limit to the strength of the strength t.e bolt of the strength class 6.8 has a 600 MPa strength limit, and the fluidity limit 6000.8 = 480 MPa is confirmed by the acquisition of the obtained numbers. The experience conducted in the training center: the M6 ​​bolt 8.8 begins to “swim” (irreversible plastic deformations arise) at 17 nm, and when the torque is reached, moment at 23 nm, destruction occurs. We will make a similar calculation for screws and screws: for the calculation, the full diameter is taken, the minimum section is much less! Conclusion: To use the most popular fasteners with PH2 and PZ2 slots, a tool with a torque of not higher than 6 nm for a diameter of 4.2-4.5 mm is tapped, in rare cases up to 10 nm for fasteners with a diameter of 5.0 mm. Exceeding these points leads to damage to fasteners and screwdriver (bats). 13 self.tapping screws Ø4.5 x70 mm are twisted into a “pie” 121 mm thick at 3.0 nm, developed by the Makita DF010DSE screwdriver, enough for confident wrapping the self.tapping screw Ø4.5 x70 mm for the entire length. If to prevent the destruction of screws and screws, you need a torque of 2-3NM, rarely 5-6NM, and in exceptional cases up to 10NM, then for which the moment is 20.30.50NM on an electric screwdriver? And what else can a drill-shurupert ? If the drill is known to drill! And what torque is needed for drilling? Theoretical retreat Consider the drilling of steel as the most severe metal drilling in load. The torque is calculated by the MKR = 10cmDQSYKP formula, where the D-diameter of the drill, S-handle, the rest of the signs are correction factors. For steel C against: CM = 0.0345, Q = 2.0, Y = 0.8, KP = 1.0, we take the drilling rate of 20-25 m/min (with coolation of the spray), we enter the corresponding turns in 4.The column. Torque, rotation speed and power on the shaft are related values. The value of the required capacity on the shaft is entered in 5.Ty column. We look at the numbers: to drill the holes Ø10-13 mm, torque 8-15 nm is required. At the recommended drilling rate 720.550 rpm for this you need a power from 570 to 850 watts. And what is the power of the battery drill ?

In the usual drilling cartridge, 3 holes are not in vain: for reliable fixation, the cartridge must be used alternately through all 3 positions of the key. In a cartridge, tightened through one hole, a drill Ø10 mm is turned with a torque of 13.5 nm, and after 3 holes (as expected) at 23 nm. And to the drill Ø13 mm when drilling steel, you need to transfer the torque

15 Nm. T.e. With a cartridge pulled through one hole, the drill will turn! The power of the battery drill (consumed) = voltage of the accumulator current current consumed for powerful models is 20-25 amperes Thus, the power for the battery tool will be: for 12 volts: 240–300W 14.4 volts: 290–360W 18 volts: 360– 430W Twisting the moment for the most powerful (18 volts) drill will be: at a speed of 1500-1700ob/min: 2-3nm at a speed of 300-400 RID/min: 8-14nm drilling steel up to Ø7mm drilling steel Ø10-13mm is the value of the torque at maximum power.(in drilling mode) when overloading the engine when wrapping hard fasteners (for example bolts), the amount of torque reaches 30-40NM. It is these values ​​that are indicated in the characteristics as the maximum soft/hard moment.They do not have practical significance! If when working, the tool requires a torque of large values, then you need a specialized tool specifically for this work. Summary: it is enough for an ordinary user to have a torque of 3-6NM in a battery/electric screwdriver controlled by a ratchet for working with standard fasteners with a head of size to pH/PZ2, and up to 10NM for PH/PZ3. For drilling steel, plastic, wood with drills with a diameter of up to 10mm, a torque is enough at 10-12nm. Twisting more than 15 nm requires the use of a specialized tool and should not be included in the sphere of use of a universal drill-electrical screwdriver.

How to call

For high.quality diagnosis of an angular grinder stator, a complete disassembly of the power tool should be performed in order to eliminate all other structural elements, including the rotor to ensure free access to all its parts. At the initial stage, it is necessary to perform a visual inspection. For a more complete picture, it is necessary to check the presence of defects using electrical devices. What devices and how to call the stator of the corner grinder is described in detail at the link “How to call the stator of the corner grinder”.

Frequent type of breakdown, this is the wear of the brushes of the motor, the change of which is made without the help of others with their own hands. From time to time, the brushes are certainly replaced without disassembling the drill housing. In some models, it is enough to turn the plugs from the installation windows and install new brushes. Other models, for the change, requires disassembling the case, in this case you need to carefully get the brush holders and extract worn brushes among them.

No need to expect the brushes to be small. This is fraught with the fact that the gap increases between the brush and collector plates. As a result, an overstra.formation occurs, the collector plates are very warm and there are variations to “retreat” from the base of the collector, which will lead to the need to change the anchor.

Find the need to change brushes is an option on high sparking, which is visible in the ventilation slots of the body. 2nd method of determining, it is a random “twitching” of a drill at one time.

The cord is checked by an ohmmeter, one probe is connected to the contact of the network fork, the other to the cord. The lack of resistance shows the cliff. So the repair of the drill is reduced to the substitution of the network wire.

In 2nd place, by the number of breakdowns of the drill, there is an option to put a malfunction of the motor parts and in most cases anchor. A breakdown of anchor or stator occurs for two reasons. Incorrect operation and poor motor wire. Domestic manufacturers with global naming use an expensive motor wire with double insulation with heat.resistant varnish, which significantly increases the reliability of the engines. Accordingly, in cheap models, the quality of the isolation of the coil wire is not sufficiently developed. Incorrect operation comes down to frequent overloads of the drill or long.term work, without interruptions for cooling the motor. Repair of a drill independently rewind the anchor in another stator, in this case, without special devices by non.partial. Only the change of the element is quite (only experienced repairmen will rewind the anchor or stator at home).

Stator rewinding at home

To change the rotor or stator, you need to disassemble the case, disconnect the wires, brushes, remove the drive gear as necessary, and remove the engine completely, coupled with the supporting bearings. Replace the faulty element and install the engine in the area.

Find a malfunction of the anchor of course by the corresponding smell, an increase in sparking, in this case, sparks have a radial movement in the direction of the anchor movement. Pronounced “burnt” windings can be met with visual inspection. If the power of the motor fell, but there are no above signs, then you should contact the measuring devices. ohmmeter and megammeter.

Read Repair of the Corner Grinding Stator with DIY

Windings (stator and anchor) are subject to only three damage. Interpreter electronic breakdown, breakdown on the “case” (magnetic circuit) and a break in the winding. The breakdown on the case is determined quite easily, it is enough to touch with a megammeter to be touched to at least what kind of winding output and magnetic circuit. Resistance of more than 500m shows a lack of breakdown. It should be noted that the measurements should be carried out with a megammeter, in which the measuring voltage is approximately 100 volts. When making measurements with a simple multimeter, you can not find exactly that there is definitely no breakdown, but they are determined that the breakdown is definitely found.

The interitic breakdown of the anchor is not easy, if, of course, it is not visually visible. For this purpose, you use a special transformer, which has only the primary winding and the gap rupture in the form of a gutter, to install an anchor there. With all this, an anchor with a personal core becomes a secondary winding. Turning the anchor, so that the workings would be alternately in the works, we apply a narrow iron plate to the anchor of the anchor. If the winding is short.closed, then the plate begins to rattles very much, with all this, the winding tangibly heats up.

rewinding of the stator of the power tool

Often, the inter.seal circuit is located in visible sections of the wire or an armature shirt: the turns happen bent, crumpled (t.e. pressed together), or they usually have any or conductive particles. If so, then you need to remove these circuits, by correcting the bruises of Shinka or extracting foreign bodies, respectively. Also, you will like the closure more found between the adjacent plates of the collector.

Find a break in the anchor winding of course, if you connect a milliammeter to the adjacent anchor plate and rotate the anchor evenly. A certain monotonous current will appear in the entire windings, the broken one will show or increase the current by another complete absence.

The breakdown of the stator windings is determined by the connection of the ohmmeter to the disconnected ends of the windings, the absence of resistance shows a complete break.

The presence of the voltage at the input terminals of the inclusion button and the absence on the weekend shows the contacts of the contacts by another component of the circuit of the revolutionary control regulator. To disassemble the button of course, gently picking up the clamps of the protective casing and pulling it off the button case. The visual inspection of the terminals will allow us to judge their performance. Blackened terminals are cleaned of soot with alcohol or small sandpaper. Then the button is collected again and check for the presence of contact, if nothing has changed, then the button with the regulator must be replaced. The speed controller is made on the substrate and is quite flooded with an insulating compound, therefore it is not subject to repair. The next corresponding fault failure is the erasing of the working layer under the slider of the rheostat. A simple way out. The change of button is completely.

Winding scheme, how to choose the thickness of the wire

Bulgarian stators have a very similar design and differ in the size of the details in which the magnetic flux is formed, the number of turns into the windings and the diameter of the wire. The standard connection diagram of the Bulgarians is shown in the following figure.

Here L1 and L2 indicate the coils of the stator.

Important: the coils after rewind should be installed according to the above scheme, where the beginning and ends of the windings are diagonally, as shown in the figure:

The burned winding is removed, while it is necessary to collect information about the old coils: determine the number of turns, the diameter of the wire, the beginning, end of the winding and the required direction during diverse work. The number of turns is determined by the direct account of the delays after cutting out the coils of the coils.

The diameter of the wire should correspond to the replaced windings as close as possible. Therefore, as a measuring tool, the most suitable is a micrometer with an accuracy of measurement up to 0.01 mm. The measurement is carried out on the surface of the wire of the burned coil on the surface of the surface of the wire.

How to rewind at home, stages of work

Repair begins with the removal of the failed old winding. With the help of pliers (pliers, round.liners) from the old winding, the grooves of the stator are freed.

Next, the rewinds of the stator coils are performed. It can be performed on a special manufactured template or directly into the grooves of the stator core. It depends on the depth and width of the space for laying the wire.

The wound coil is installed in the stator with mandatory positioning of the onset and end of the winding wire, as described above in the text. The winding is fixed in the stature with withstanding all the clearances (consolidation options will be discussed further in the video presented below). The stator is heated in the furnace to about 80 ° C. 110 ° C. With the help of a brush, varnish or pre.prepared epoxy resin with hardener is applied. When applying, it is important to achieve the deepest penetration of the impregnation.

Read how to connect a selfie stick to the phone via Bluetooth dexp

Practical tips for rewinding the stator windings are given in the following videos.

Rewinding of windings directly on the core

The following video describes in detail the technology for repairing the stator of the corner grinder. The author shows all the stages of the work and argues his choice of rewinding the winding directly on the “iron”. This model has wide grooves, and it will be difficult to install a finished coil tightly in them. As a guide device, the author uses a plate that bends in height of the corresponding extreme point of laying the winding in the grooves. The surface of the plate is covered with electrical tape to preserve the wire insulation from damage and is fixed on the core with the same electrical tape. The process of such rewinding is quite laborious. With a large number of turns, your actions should be fixed, for example, with appropriate records on paper. This will help to avoid mistakes.

After the winding and removal of the guide plate is completed, the coil can weaken its styling due to residual stresses, individual turns can fall out of the total mass. In this case, the strapping using a thread made of natural material (synthetics cannot be used) will allow you to maintain winding density. Put the coil in the grooves tightly allows the use of various wedge items. However, the author does not welcome their use, as this negatively affects the quality of the impregnation.

It is not always possible to choose the right template

In the next video, the author warns the rewinds with their own hands about the difficulties with the selection of the template. It is not always possible to choose the right one at once. Guaranteed high.quality rewinding gives a much more time.consuming, but reliable way directly on the “iron”.

Electric circuit of corner grinder

Today, almost everyone who does not like to sit idle. A good owner always monitors his tool and tries to prevent his breakdown. The appearance of the backlash, beating or cod of the gearbox indicates a mechanical character, but it happens that the corner grinder stops working for no apparent reason. In this case, the reason should be sought in the electrical circuit of the tool. The electrical circuit of the corner grinder is not particularly difficult, and in most cases the repair can be performed independently.

A collector engine is used in the corner grinding machine, which has a simple connection scheme. The network wire is connected to the start button, and then to the engine. Phase-zero position does not matter. After the button, the wires are connected to the ends of the stator windings (two of them), and the second ends of the windings are connected to the brushes, which are in contact through the collector lamps closed through the opposite windings of the rotor.

In more functional models, a speed adjustment unit is included in the circuit, which is based on a potentiometer and connected after the button. In the electrical circuit of the corner grinder of Bosh, like many models of other well.known brands, for example, Interskol, this block is made on one compact board and fixed inside the case in guide grooves.

Read how to connect OBD 2 to a laptop via Bluetooth

Rewinding of windows of the stator and rotor of the electric motor

The preparation of the stator for rewinding begins with the removal and cleansing of the grooves from the old winding (by hand by steel brushes rotated by electric drifts and t.D.), as well as from damaged isolation. With difficulty removing the old insulation of the grooves, the strata of small dimensions after removing the winding is immersed in hot transformer oil that softens the remaining insulation residues.

Then the stators or rotors of large machines are cleaned with a rag moistened with a solvent (for example, gasoline). Stators, rotors and parts of small machines are washed in a 2-3%kaustic solution with a temperature of 70-80 ° C (the solution is mixed with compressed air), then washed in hot water and dried.

In the status purified from dirt, the condition of steel bags is carefully checked, the grooves are cleaned from the burrs, the stilettos that tighten the core, and the insulation resistance is measured with a megammeter. Grands and end parts of the core and pressure washer are painted with varnish. Pressure and grooves isolated.

To facilitate the subsequent repair of the machine in the process of removing the old winding, they make up the accompanying note containing the following data: purpose, type and factory machine number, manufacturer’s name; the number and circuit of the phases, power, voltage and current, the speed of rotation, the number of pairs of poles; internal and outer diameters of the stator core, including ventilation ducts, quantity and width of the channels, quantity and size of the grooves; The cross.section of the copper winding, the brand of wires, the number of wires in the groove and parallel wires, the step of the section (coils) in grooves, the resistance of the section (coil) and phase; circuit connection diagram; Section sizes (coils); the average length of the turns and sections (coils); insulation of the section (coil), direct part, bends, conclusions, inclined part, head; the isolation material used and its dimensions; groove insulation, size and number of gaskets;the size of the wedges; insulation of a pressing washer, winding holder, and t.D. Currently, electric motors of the unified series A and general.industrial.industrial.industrialized windows with pushed windings (consisting of soft coils wound up with a round wire) are mainly repaired. Repair of the latter consists of the following basic operations: harvesting insulating parts, winding coils, laying and impregnation of windings.

The workpiece of insulating parts. By the beginning of the repair of the electric motor, all insulation parts are harvested in the full set.

The materials from which the insulation parts are made are prepared as follows. Electric Cardon, usually entering large heavy rolls, is rewinded into rolls of smaller sizes weighing up to 10. 15 kg and dried in an upright position in a drying furnace at a temperature of 90. 95 ° C for 1. 2 hours.

Hot electrocartes is impregnated in linseed oil or natural olifa and again dried in the furnace at the same temperature for 3-4 hours. Drying of impregnated electrocardon in the air is also allowed. In this case, the drying time depending on the surrounding temperature is increased to 24. 36 hours.

When drying, both in the furnace and in the air, the electrocardon roll should be dissolved so that there is a gap between the individual layers. Then determine the option of cutting the material with minimal waste.

Proceeds for groove boxes and other parts are cut on lever scissors with limiting and clamping strips so that the direction of the fibers of the box laid in the groove coincides with the longitudinal axis of the electric motor. Lakotkan is cut at an angle of 45 °, and fiberglass. at an angle of 15 ° to the axis of the canvas.

Grooves can be closed or open. When opened, when the groove box does not overlap the coil under the groove wedge, the width of the workpiece is the same for all insulation layers and is determined by the perimeter of the groove.

With a closed design, when the box overlaps the coil under the groove wedge, the width of the inner layer by 20. 30 mm and more should exceed other layers.

At the same time, in the process of laying the winding of the edge of the boxes, the grooves protrude and protect the wires from damage, which is especially important when using the wires of pelbo brands, Pelsho with relatively fragile enamel insulation.

In addition to groove boxes, by the beginning of the repair, they prepare: gaskets for laying in the middle of the grooves between the sides of the coils, inter.phase gaskets, linoxine tubes for isolation of the joints of the wires of intra.mahogys and output ends, as well as groove wedges. The length of the inter.phase gaskets is determined by the departure of the frontal parts, and the width with a step of the winding. Groove wedges are made from impregnated and dried wood of solid species (beech, birch) or from textolite.

Winding coils. As indicated, the pushed windings are made of round cross.sectional wires. Copper wire variety for the manufacture of winding wires reaches 80 sizes. Currently manufactured wires with fibrous, enamel and combined enamel-fiber insulation.

Various types or brands of winding wires have conditional letter and digital designations. The variety of wires is usually given in factory instructions or reference books for repairing windings of electric machines. For windings of electric motors of the unified series A and AO, the number of wires is limited to 34 sizes, and brands. two.

Most of the windings are made by a wire with a diameter of 1.25. 1.62 mm. In many cases, the wire of the same size is used for windings of various electric motors by changing the number of parallel branches in the phase. For electric motors of the 3rd-5th dimensions of all types and electric motors of the 6th-9th dimensions of types A, AO, AO, AOT and AK use the stamps of pelbo brands, and types AO, AOS, AOP-ps d.

It is advisable to wind the reels of a fucked winding from one wire. This ensures their compactness and the correct form. Coils wound from two or more parallel wires are more difficult to lay in the groove: the probability of crossing the wires into a groove (crosses) is increasing, which is one of the causes of a winding marriage due to damage to the insulation of the wires when the coil is compacted in the groove.

The maximum number of parallel wires in the coil is three. Coils of four parallel wires are an exception. At the same time, laying in the grooves of wires with a diameter of 2.5 mm or more difficult due to its rigidity and entails damage to the insulation of the wire and gap of sorting grooves.

Dismantling, inspection and preparation of the stator

Rewinds can be performed with your own hands or send an electric motor for repairs. Since the last option often requires large cash costs and is not always realized in small cities, it is best to rewind the winding yourself. In a home workshop, this is quite feasible. Now three.phase alternating current electric motors with a short.closed or phase rotor are widespread. Therefore, the process of rewinding electric motors of this type will be considered below. Rewinding, as well as replacing most other engine parts begins with its disassembly.

Having completed all safety preparations (turn off the power, disconnect the drive and more), the electric motor is thoroughly cleaned and laundered in order to minimize dirt from the entry of dirt inside.

Then several fan bolts and its casing are unscrewed, and then, fixing the bearing shields. They are located on the end parts of the engine.

rewind, stator, drills, your, hands

After disassemble the engine, they begin to extract an old winding. For this, its protruding parts (frontal) are handed over from the end of the conclusions of the windings.

The frontal part is cut down throughout the circle of the stator.

After that, they are knocked out of the grooves of the wedge, which fix the winding in grooves, and then remove it.

In small.sized electric motors, as a rule, there is no remaining winding can be immediately pulled out with pliers.

Having released the stator from the damaged winding, it must be carefully examined, cleaned, and if it is possible to blow out air. So, often after closing to the case, copper, burrs and other metal defects remain in this place in this place.

Most of them can be removed with sandpaper with fine granularity.

Dismantling of the motor

Do.it.yourself repair of an electric motor involves an independent disassembly of the motor, which is carried out in various ways. Sometimes it is enough to turn the engine where exactly depends on the place where it is installed. There are times when it is necessary to disconnect the cable of power, while be sure to place the phases, otherwise when repeated the connection will have to be guessed which wire where to connect.

Use the puller to remove or pull off the half.wrap.

Inspect the body, pay attention to the condition of the side covers, whether there are a stirring lubricant on them, when detected, remove them. If there are no traces, you can start removing the covers, fasteners, as a rule, there are from 3 to 5.

Unscrew the bolts on the lids, slightly tap with a small hammer on the lid on one side, while providing another tension. Exploring tapping carefully so as not to break the “ears”, which will inevitably entail additional expenses. What will be needed to repair the engine is the accuracy and skillful actions of the master.

Throw off the lids to determine whether you need to get the rotor from the body, or all repair work can be done in place. When the engine power is less than 17 kW, the rotor is simply pulled out and put aside, and if above, then the repair is done in place.

After you dealt with the shaft, take up the removal of the bearings, remove the fully leaked grease with aviation kerosene. When the lubricant flooded the winding, it will need to wash and dry it, 1 or 2 bulbs or a calorifier are used for drying.

The types of repair work of the electric motor are divided into account the type of malfunction, for example: the bearing “gone” to the shaft, in other words, its landing is weakened, it is necessary to fuse the shaft using electric welding and punch it on a lathe. If the bearing has a number below than 309, it is soldered with tin, such a repair has quite good results.

Consider an engine with a power of up to 100 kW equipped with rolling bearings when the engine operates in disrepair, at a critical temperature, if thermal protection does not work, the link bursts.

Faced with a similar problem, follow the following actions:

  • Remove the remains of the winding.
  • Make the bandage again and apply a layer of varnish on it, then the link will stick to the windings, it will not hang out during operation and last longer.

Ringing the stator of the corner grinder with your own hands

408-317 Stator for Bosch GWS7-125/GWS7-115 Hammer. Photo 220 volts as an electric drive in the grinder, an asynchronous collector engine is used. One of the main nodes of its design is the stator, which always works paired with the rotor and creates a magnetic field with which it rotates.

In case of a malfunction of the stator, the corner grinder fails and is subject to repair. You can repair the stator in the main two ways. either replace a defective stator with a new one, or using rewinding the burned winding changes to a new one.

Such repair with independent execution requires certain knowledge and skills

Corner grinder and stator device

Stationary asynchronous electric motors usually have a special case where the stator and rotor are securely attached.

In the grinder, the role of the supporting element for the main units of the electric drive is played by the actual case of the power tool itself. It is usually made of high.strength plastic, into which the stator is tightly inserted.

Full Pitch and Short Pitch Winding (Worked Example)

rewind, stator, drills, your, hands

This design significantly reduces the weight and overall characteristics of the corner grinder, which is important for manual household devices.

The causes of breakdowns

408-105 Stator for angular grinder Hitachi G18SE3 and Hammer. Photo 220 volts

The most common reason for the failure of the stator of the corner grinder is a violation of operating conditions. Asynchronous engines have the ability to maintain speed, regardless of the value of the active load. This is both a dignity and a disadvantage.

The ability to perform work at high loads is accompanied by overheating of the tool, which contributes to prolonged operation to the occurrence of malfunctions in the winding and stator windings. Under the influence of high temperature, the protective layer of the insulating coating is burned out, which leads to the failure of electric nodes.

The main malfunctions

The main malfunctions of the stator are the following:

How to call

For high.quality diagnosis of an angular grinder stator, a complete disassembly of the power tool should be performed in order to eliminate all other structural elements, including the rotor to ensure free access to all its parts.

At the initial stage, it is necessary to perform a visual inspection. For a more complete picture, it is necessary to check the presence of defects using electrical devices.

What devices and how to call the stator of the corner grinder is described in detail at the link “How to call the stator of the corner grinder”.

Winding scheme, how to choose the thickness of the wire

Bulgarian stators have a very similar design and differ in the size of the details in which the magnetic flux is formed, the number of turns into the windings and the diameter of the wire. The standard connection diagram of the Bulgarians is shown in the following figure.

Here L1 and L2 indicate the coils of the stator.

Important: the coils after rewind should be installed according to the above scheme, where the beginning and ends of the windings are diagonally, as shown in the figure:

The burned winding is removed, while it is necessary to collect information about the old coils: determine the number of turns, the diameter of the wire, the beginning, end of the winding and the required direction during diverse work. The number of turns is determined by the direct account of the delays after cutting out the coils of the coils.

The diameter of the wire should correspond to the replaced windings as close as possible. Therefore, as a measuring tool, the most suitable is a micrometer with an accuracy of measurement up to 0.01 mm. The measurement is carried out on the surface of the wire of the burned coil on the surface of the surface of the wire.

Necessary tools

Locabulary whole.hand hammer 500 g. Inforce. Photos all tools.RU

  • Various hammers: metal, wooden, several sizes.
  • For manipulations with coils, pliers, round.liners, pliers are used.
  • Stripping the surface surfaces from pollution and isolation is performed using a metal brush.
  • The required cleanliness of the surface of the stator can be obtained using an electric drill with appropriate nozzles.
  • In addition to a micrometer, a caliper and a ruler are used for less critical measurements.
  • Control the electrical parameters of the coils after rewinding can be by multimeter.
  • Cambrows, insulating cardboard, bicopic tape special varnish for impregnation. auxiliary materials for repair technology.

How to rewind at home, stages of work

Repair begins with the removal of the failed old winding. With the help of pliers (pliers, round.liners) from the old winding, the grooves of the stator are freed.

Important: be sure to remove data on the number of turns and the diameter of the wire of the removed coils. Clean the surface of the stator from the old burnt isolation, rinse it and dry it.

Next, the rewinds of the stator coils are performed. It can be performed on a special manufactured template or directly into the grooves of the stator core. It depends on the depth and width of the space for laying the wire.

Important: determine the beginning and end of the winding, direction of laying wire. In the case of manufacturing the template, do not forget to give a allowance for isolation and width of the future coil (about 3-5 mm).

The wound coil is installed in the stator with mandatory positioning of the onset and end of the winding wire, as described above in the text.

The winding is fixed in the stature with withstanding all the gaps (consolidation options will be discussed further in the video presented below). The stator is heated in the furnace to about 80 ° C. 110 ° C.

With the help of a brush, varnish or pre.prepared epoxy resin with hardener is applied. When applying, it is important to achieve the deepest penetration of the impregnation.

Practical tips for rewinding the stator windings are given in the following videos.

Checking a multimeter

You can make sure that the stator can be used using the device. multimeter. This is a universal measuring device. Of course, they measure several electronic values: voltage, current, resistance. The device consists of a case where there are a screen, switch and nests, and 2 cords with probes (plus and minus). The minus probe is always connected to the lower nest, and the plus to the middle or upper, depending on the current strength in the test device.

Corner grinder (angular grinder) should be set on the multimeter of the resistance value from 20 to 200 Ohms and alternately bring the probes of the measuring device to the windings. If the resistance everywhere has a similar value, then the coil is working. When the device indicates another resistance in certain points, then in the winding of course the Kutzue close is another break in one book from the turns. Similarly, the stator is checked by an ohmmeter. Its difference from the multimeter is only about the fact that this device can only measure the resistance.

Preparation for the repair and the necessary tools

For rewinding the stator you will need special tools:

  • hammers: wooden, metal;
  • roundbones and pliers;
  • steel brush;
  • calipers;
  • Megommeter;
  • electric drill;
  • ruler;
  • varnish.

The first and most important stage is to clean the stator from pollution. The old winding is removed from the grooves. All this can be done using a steel brush. Cleaning is carried out manually using steel brushes, electric drifts. It is also necessary to remove the old insulation. To facilitate the task, you can use transformer oil. It must be a little warm and lower the starting device into it. Such a measure will soften the damaged isolation and simplify its removal. For cleaning, a weak caust solution (temperature is 80ºС) mixed with compressed air is also used.

After processing, the stator must be washed well with water and dried. The state of the stator and steel packages must be checked well. Then tighten the hair core, the grooves are cleaned from the burrs. Insulation resistance is measured using a megammeter. Parts of the core, pressure washers and grooves are covered with varnish. Wars and grooves must be isolated.

The accompanying note can facilitate further work, where the main data is displayed:

  • phase connection scheme and their number;
  • resistance of the coil and phase;
  • the number of grooves and their size;
  • cross.section of the winding, a step of coils in the grooves;
  • The method of insulation of the groove, the number of interlayed gaskets and their dimensions.

Next, the remaining frontal winding is removed and a new. There is a special template for the manufacture of the winding. It is fixed on the axis holding 2 large.sized plate made of metal.

Stages of carrying out a stator rewind procedure

When working, it is important to obtain a strictly defined number of turns. it should be identical to the number of turns of the old winding. The wire must be wound so that the seal is maximum. Coils are placed in the stator. From the same material from which the winding for the coils is made, conclusions are drawn. Their tips need to be isolated by cambric. tubes made of plastic.

Before installing the coils, it is necessary to check that the grooves are symmetrical. They must close the winding. If this does not happen, when laying the wires of the coils, temporary inserts are placed. This simple measure will avoid damage.

The coil is mounted above the groove, which is below the bore. The coil conductors are installed using a special plate. Wires located in the groove should in no case be crossed. They need to be laid in the same way as in the same sequence as the winding. Conductors must be installed strictly in parallel.

To perform the next operation, the stator needs to be turned a little. only one division. Coils from the same group are laid in the groove. After the end of the styling, you need to put the interlayer gaskets. Screw the conclusions to the outer contour so that they are located parallel to the outer contour. The lower side of the coils is mounted according to the same principle. The operation is repeated until the grooves of this step are filled.

When the winding is finished, the ends can be hypilized. The sizes of sleeves depend on the size of the stator. The thickness of the sleeve is usually 0.2 mm, but the length should be larger than the dimensions of the starting device. Most often this value is about 1.5 mm. A special cardboard is used for the manufacture of the sleeve. You need to wind the film (must be thermal.resistant) on it). The entire resulting design is wrapped in tape. Coils with sleeves need to be installed in the grooves of the stator. After that, you can check if the anchor is moving correctly. The coil is completely ready. It remains only to wrap it with a bin.ribbon, and cover with a layer of varnish on top. After the varnish dries, the device is completely ready for use.