Funny lawn mower fails. 15 Things I Wish I Knew Before I Bought A Robot Lawn Mower

Things I Wish I Knew Before I Bought A Robot Lawn Mower

There are a number of things that I wish I knew before I bought my robot lawn mower. Over the last few years, I’ve gained a lot of experience with these machines, and I’ve discovered a lot of things, both positive and negative which would be useful to anybody considering getting one.

This article discusses 15 things, both positive and negative, that might help you benefit from my experience with robotic mowers.

Robotic Mower Installation Takes A Bit Of Time

Prior to purchasing my first robot lawnmower, I really didn’t have a lot of knowledge or experience of these machines. I assumed that there would be very little setup involved in getting a robot lawnmower up and running. I thought that it would just be a matter of charging it up, programming a few settings and letting it begin to work.

The reality is, because robot lawn mowers use a perimeter wire to detect the edge of your lawn, you must spend some time installing this prior to using your machine. The setup process will take a few hours, but it is quite simple and can be done by anyone, regardless of expertise. Once the setup is complete, there is very little input involved in running a robot lawn mower. Check out my experience of installing and using the Flymo 1200R Robotic Mower here.

Your Lawn Will Look Better

Due to the way robot lawn mowers are designed to work, your lawn will be much greener and healthier, with fewer weeds, and will look neatly cut all the time.

I really like my lawn to look well. I used to spend quite a lot of time applying fertiliser and weed killers, manually removing weeds, aerating and dethatching my lawn. Unfortunately, my actions were contributing to the poor condition of my lawn and to the establishment of weeds.

I didn’t have time to cut my lawn frequently enough to keep weeds at bay. I removed the cuttings every time the grass was cut, which removed essential nutrients from the soil.

After applying fertilizer, my grass would be weed free and vibrantly green for a few weeks, but then it would slowly become less vibrant and weeds would re-establish themselves.

Robot lawn mowers have three main mechanisms to make your grass look better.

They mulch the clippings. Instead of removing the clipping and therefore the nutrients from the grass, the clippings are mulched into very fine pieces and are returned to the lawn. As the clippings are so fine, they drop down to soil level, where they are able to return their nutrients to the soil for the growing grass to use.
They cut the grass very frequently. Due to the frequent cutting of the grass, weeds simply cannot establish themselves and you will notice after a few short weeks of using a robot lawn mower that you have fewer weeds in your lawn.
As robot lawn mowers cut your lawn so frequently, the lawn will always look freshly cut. There will be no uneven growth. Your lawn will look perfectly flat and immaculate all the time.

Considering the effort I put in with my lawn prior to getting a robot lawn mower, it was bittersweet that a robot lawn mower so effortlessly kept my lawn looking vibrantly green and healthy. Below is a before and after photo of my lawn.

You’ll Spend All Your Time Talking About Robotic Mowers

People who come to my house usually notice my robot lawn mower out the window and want to ask about it. They always find it quite amusing and interesting, as they are still quite uncommon. I’m more than happy to talk about my experience of having a robot lawn mower, both the positives and negatives.

My children are also fascinated by the robot lawn mower marching around the garden, so they like to give me a running commentary on what it is up to. Whether you see this new conversation topic as a positive or a negative will depend on you.

Lawn Obstacles Are No Problem For Robot Mowers

Prior to purchasing a robot lawn mower, I was concerned that it would not be able to navigate around temporary obstacles on the lawn and that this would create hassle by having to ensure that the grass was clear at all times. Thankfully my research before purchasing reassured me, and I have had no problems with lawn obstacles at all.

Robot lawn mowers have been developed to navigate around obstacles on your lawn extremely efficiently. Permanent obstacles can be marked out with the perimeter wire, ensuring that the robot lawn mower will not come into contact with them. However if there are obstacles on your lawn that are not marked out by perimeter wire or are only temporary, this will be no problem.

All robot lawn mowers have collision sensors and operate at very low speeds. There is no prospect of damaging an obstacle on your lawn. The robot lawnmower will simply come into contact with it, turn around and go in a different direction.

Certain obstacles must be marked out by perimeter wire. These include flower beds and ponds as the robot lawn mower will simply drive into these if they are not marked out unless there is a raised boundary.

They Can Handle Lawns Split Into Sections

Robot lawn mowers are all very well if you have a regular shaped lawn in one section, but what if your lawn is quite a complicated shape or if it is split into two or even more sections of grass? There’s not much point in having a robot lawn mower that will only cut one area of your grass but leave you having to cut the other areas with a conventional lawn mower.

Thankfully, complicated lawns are normally no problem for robot lawn mowers. Lawns split into several sections can be managed by almost all robot lawn mowers, but it may take some planning to get the best setup.

One of the easiest strategies is simply to extend the perimeter wire around the second or third area of grass in a continuous loop. The manual will explain how to do this very well. Usually this involves lifting the robot lawn mower between the two sections of grass as required. However, you’ll need to lift it back to the charging station manually. This isn’t the best option, as one of the key benefits of having a robot mower is that you’re not meant to have any input with cutting your grass.

Another option is to purchase a second charging station so that the lawnmower can be lifted from one section to the other as needed, perhaps once or twice per week. This will let it work and charge autonomously, and the only input from the user is to lift it between sections of grass as required.

A third strategy is to purchase a second robot lawn mower. This sounds crazy, but can actually be a cheaper option for some. There are some very good value robot lawn mowers that can manage lawns of up to 600 sqm. These are often less than half the price of models that can manage 1000sqm. If your lawn is split into two fairly equal sections, this would work well. You may forego some of the Smart features of more expensive robot lawn mowers, but I would strongly advise that having your grass cut completely autonomously is a much better option.

This Is a strategy that my father has employed in his garden which has a section of lawn at the front and the back. He has one robot lawn mower which cuts the front lawn, one which cuts the back lawn. He uses two Flymo 1200R models and it has worked flawlessly and is actually cheaper than a model which would be sufficient to cut both areas.

Burying The Perimeter Wire Is The Best Option

There are two options for the installation of the perimeter wire around the edge of your lawn.

One option is to peg the perimeter wire to the grass. The second option is to cut a small slit in the ground and bury it between 5 and 10 centimeters deep.

Whilst pegging the perimeter wire down is a quicker option, I would argue that it is a significantly worse option. When you peg the wire down, it should sit flush with the grass. Over the first few weeks, there is a risk that the growing grass will push the wire up into the blades of the robot lawnmower causing a perimeter wire break or damage.

For this reason, you must run the blades of your robot lawn mower at the highest setting and slowly lower them until you achieve the desired cutting height over the space of a couple of weeks.

Eventually, the perimeter wire will disappear from view, as the grass grows over the top of it. This will take approximately four to eight weeks. Pegging the perimeter wire to the ground limits your ability to do grass maintenance activities such as aerating and dethatching your lawn, due to the risk of damaging the perimeter wire.

If you bury the perimeter wire you will be able to carry out routine lawn maintenance without fear of hitting or damaging the perimeter wire.

The downside of burying the perimeter wire is that adjustments are sometimes needed in the first few weeks of operation of a robot lawn mower.

In my experience I put the perimeter wire to close to some flower beds, which led to the robot lawn mower falling into them. I had to move the perimeter wire a few centimeters further from the flower beds to ensure that the robot lawn mower did not get stuck.

I think the best thing to do with the perimeter wire is actually to peg it down initially, ensure that the robot lawn mower is running flawlessly over the space of a few days or perhaps a week, and then bury the perimeter wire. This is done by going round the edge of your lawn and creating a thin channel with an edging tool and putting the perimeter wire into it. It really doesn’t take too long.

I would advise that you bury your perimeter wire when the ground is wet, after a period of rainfall. This will make sure that the ground is soft and it is easy to cut into with an edging tool or straight spade. I would not want to be doing this job after a long drought with rock hard ground. If these are the weather conditions when you are installing a robot lawn mower, just forget about burying the perimeter wire until a later date, or soak the ground with water and leave it for a few hours to soften up.

Most Robomowers Wont Cut The Edges Of Your Grass Perfectly

Unfortunately there are a few drawbacks of robot lawn mowers due to the current technology used to detect the edge of the lawn.

Whilst robot lawn mowers will cut right up to the edge of your lawn where it meets paved areas, they will not usually able to do this next to flower beds or ponds. The robot lawn mower will leave a narrow strip of uncut grass. You will then have to manually trim the edges with an edge trimmer. This doesn’t have to be done very often, and I usually do it about once every four weeks.

This is a significant negative aspect of the current generation of robot lawn mowers and one you should be aware of before making a purchase. It should be noted that certain models are better at doing edges than others. Typically the cutting technology from Robomow robot lawn mowers is better suited to getting closer to the edge of your grass. However I still don’t think it negates the need to trim your edges.

Robot Mowers Are The Future

One concern I had about robot lawn mowers was whether they would work as well as conventional lawnmowers. Thankfully, I need not have been concerned as my robot lawnmower does an excellent job, and the feedback from most users is generally good. Personally, I could never go back to a conventional lawn mower having used a robotic mower.

Generally robot lawn mowers live up to their promise of being able to delegate your lawn care to a robot. They still have a few minor issues which do not significantly detract from the generally positive experience. The two main things to be aware of are that the set-up is a bit time consuming and robot lawn mowers generally won’t do a perfect job on your edges. As long as you keep these two things in mind when you buy robot lawnmower you are generally going to be pleased with your purchase.

The technology behind robot lawn mowers has been in development for over 50 years, with mainstream domestic machines widely available for over 20 years. During this time the technology has gradually developed and come down in price, meaning that a lot of the problems that were present in the first robot lawn mowers have largely been solved.

Robot Mowers Are Safer Than Conventional Lawn Mowers

The safety aspects of robot lawn mowers cannot be overstated. Conventional lawn mowers are consistently the most hazardous piece of garden machinery in use today.

Over 80 thousand people attend the emergency department each year in the United States with a lawn mower related injury. Certainly, when I used to use a conventional lawn mower, the poor safety record of these machines was never far from my mind and probably played a role in the decision making process causing me to make the switch.

According to one of the leading manufacturers of robot lawn mowers, a robot lawn mower has never caused an injury resulting in attendance at an emergency department. I think this is a staggering statistic if it is true. From my research I have not been able to disprove this. Certainly there are multiple reasons why robot lawn mowers barely comparable in terms of safety compared to conventional lawnmowers.

Robot lawn mowers use much smaller, lower powered blades. The blades are tucked well under the machine and the user does not have to go anywhere near them while the robot lawnmower is an operation. Robot lawn mowers have lift and tilt sensors and will initiate an emergency stop of their blades in a fraction of a second if there is any interference with the machine which could result in an injury. Read more about the safety aspects of robot lawn mowers here.

They Can Work Out Cheaper

Robot lawn mowers generally have a reputation for being very expensive. The cheapest models retail for approximately £400 in the UK and the top of the range domestic models cost about £3,100 in the UK. in other territories are broadly similar. This puts the ticket price of robot lawn mowers higher than conventional rotary lawnmowers, but broadly in line with the more sophisticated cylinder lawn mowers.

However, robot lawn mowers are cheaper to run and have lower maintenance costs. Over the lifetime of the robot lawn mower, it is likely to cost a very similar amount to a conventional lawnmower, and in some instances may work out cheaper. For those people who pay a gardener to cut their lawn, the payback time for purchasing a robot lawnmower can be as little as one year. I’ve written an article about how robot mowers can be cheaper than conventional mowers.

The high initial cost of robot lawn mowers may deter some people until the costs decrease further, but in many cases they are already comparable with conventional mowers. The price of robot mowers has been falling slowly and steadily over the last 10 years and is likely to continue to do so, but at a slower pace.

They’re Not As Smart As You Think (But This Isn’t A Bad Thing)

Maybe it’s just me, but when I think of robots, I think of sophisticated machines that use artificial intelligence to automate jobs that humans do not want to do. The reality is that robot lawn mowers are really very basic. It is entirely possible with today’s technology to build a robot lawn mower that will automatically sense the edge of your garden without need for a perimeter wire, and will use visual systems to detect when your grass needs cut.

However, to build such a robot would be very expensive and would contain a lot of complicated technology. This would put the price out of the range of most consumers and would increase the risk of component failure, causing them to be less reliable. The reality is that the designers of robot lawn mowers have opted to aim for a machine that will do an acceptable job, while keeping the complexity and cost down to an acceptable level.

If you have ever watched a robot lawn mower, you will notice that they usually work in a random pattern. The controller chip on a robot lawn mower uses an algorithm to determine what way to turn and react to obstacles. This ensures that the probability of the robot lawn mower covering each area of grass at least once, reaches 100% within a reasonable amount of time. You will also notice that this leads to some areas of grass being covered many times, before other areas are even cut once. This is very inefficient, but is computationally undemanding, reducing the complexity and cost of the computing power required for the robot lawn mower.

It would be so much better if the robot lawn mower mapped your lawn and then simply followed a pattern to ensure that the entire area of grass was cut once per cycle. This could either be in stripes or in another efficient pattern. Unfortunately, the current range of robot lawn mowers do not have this level of complexity for the reasons outlined above.

No doubt, the capabilities of robot lawn mowers will increase over time as costs fall and technology is able to be implemented in a competitive consumer product. If you want to read more, I’ve written an article about how robot lawn mowers work.

Damaged Perimeter Wire Is An Easy Fix

The perimeter wire is used by the robot lawn mower to detect the edge of the lawn. This can be at risk of damage for a number of reasons. Burrowing animals, the robot lawn mower itself, gardening activities, and even freeze-thaw conditions can lead to damage or breakage of your perimeter wire.

Even if you only pegged the perimeter wire down, the breakage may not be visible at first sight, as the grass will have grown over the top of it. One of my major concerns was that if a breakage were to occur, how on earth would I find where the breakage was. Sometimes the break in the wire is very obvious to see If damage has exposed part of the wire above the surface of the grass. However, in other circumstances, even after inspecting the entire perimeter of your grass, there will be no clue as to where the damage is.

I thought the only option to find the break would be to pull up the perimeter wire until the break was found. After repair, this would then involve re-laying the perimeter wire, which is quite a time consuming process.

Thankfully, there are a number of techniques which can be used to locate the perimeter wire which negate the need to pull up a significant proportion of your perimeter wire. There is one technique in particular, which is not outlined in the manual of robot lawn mowers, but which works extremely well and will avoid you having to dig up more than perhaps 6 inches either side of the breakage. I’ve written an article which outlines all the techniques to locate and fix a break in your perimeter wire.

Repairing a broken perimeter wire only requires a few minutes and a single wire connector. It is normal for several spares to be provided in the contents of the box of your robot lawn mower. These connectors allow you to very easily connect two or three wires together in a matter of seconds. The connector can then be buried a few centimeters under the grass, so there will be no visual sign that the break occurred.

You Don’t Need Expensive Manufacturer Branded Spares

Spare blades, wire connectors, perimeter wire and batteries are widely available through robot lawn mower retailers and online. Typically, branded spares can be quite expensive. I have found that there are a wide variety of compatible spares which are considerably more cost-effective.

My own robot lawn mower is made by a brand that is owned by Husqvarna. The spares are largely the same as the spares for other Husqvarna robot lawn mowers.

I have had good experiences buying compatible spares on Amazon, which generally work out at less than half the price of the branded spares. Having used the spares on numerous occasions now, I do not see any difference in the quality compared to official branded spares. You may feel uncomfortable using compatible spares due to the potential impact that this can have on a manufacturer warranty. You may wish to transition to compatible spares once the robot lawn mower is out of warranty.

Mulching Clippings Is A Good And Bad Thing

Robot lawn mowers do not collect your grass clippings. Instead, they mulch the clippings and return them to the lawn. As robot lawn mowers are designed to cut your lawn very frequently, the clippings are very fine and fall into the lawn and onto the ground, rather than clumping together and sitting on top of it. This means that the clippings will generally not be seen and your lawn will look tidy. If you were mulching your clippings with a conventional lawn mower, you would find big clumps of clippings would sit on your grass and the lawn would look quite unsightly.

Mulching your clippings is a positive thing for a number of reasons.

You do not have to collect the clippings. Previously, all my grass clippings would have gone in my garden waste bin, or have been taken to the recycling centre directly. I would frequently run out of room in my garden waste bin, and the only option would be to take the excess clippings and garden waste to the recycling centre. This used to eat into my free time, so I am glad I no longer have to do this.
Mulching means that the nutrients that are in the clippings are returned to the soil. Once the clippings start to break down, the nutrients then become available for the growing grass to use. This means that you will have to fertilise your grass much less frequently. When I used to use a conventional lawn mower, I would have spread fertiliser on my grass approximately 4 times per year, to try to keep it looking green. The grass would look great for approximately 4 weeks, after which time it would get less and less green and vibrant, which was very noticeable after each cut. Since getting my robot lawn mower, I normally fertilise my lawn twice per year, once in the spring and once in the autumn. Not only does this make caring for my lawn easier, but it saves me a fair bit of money that I used to spend on fertiliser.
Your lawn will look better. Mulching your clippings makes your lawn look better for a number of reasons. Following on from the last point, as you are not removing any nutrients from the soil with a robot lawn mower, the growing grass has more available nutrients, so will be greener and more vibrant. As robot lawn mowers work more frequently, ensuring that the clippings do not clump up on top of the lawn, your grass will always look freshly cut, My lawn is much healthier and greener than it ever was with a conventional lawn mower and requires minimal effort to keep it this way.

There is one negative point to mention about a robot lawn mower that mulches your clippings. Although the clippings won’t generally be visible, they have not disappeared into thin air. I find that when my kids play on the grass, they get far more grass clippings stuck to their shoes than they would have done when I had a conventional lawn mower.

They then have a tendency to bring these clippings into the house on their shoes. Whilst we previously had a loose, “shoes off at the door policy”, we now have to enforce this strictly, to ensure that grass clippings are not brought into the house.

Robot Lawn Mowers Are Durable And Easy To Maintain

Robot lawn mowers are mechanically much simpler than conventional lawn mowers. Conventional lawn mowers which use internal combustion engines and heavy duty cutting mechanisms have far more moving parts that are at risk of breakdown or failure. These need regular maintenance to ensure that they remain in working order. Robot lawn mowers use electric motors, lithium ion batteries, and very simple cutting mechanisms.

For this reason, the maintenance requirements of a robot lawn mower are considerably less than a conventional lawnmower. Typically, you will have to clean the underside of your robot lawnmower every few weeks to ensure there is no excessive build up of grass clippings. You will have to change the blades of your robot lawnmower according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.

A point to note is that most manufacturers recommend changing their blades a bit more frequently than I feel is actually required. The manual for my robot lawn mower recommends changing the blades every 8 weeks. I change the blades of my machine approximately twice per cutting season, as I don’t notice a major deterioration in cutting performance or the appearance of the lawn when the blades are dull.

I have never had my robot lawnmower professionally serviced, and I have never had any problems with it. I simply keep it reasonably clean during the cutting season and do a more thorough clean prior to winter storage. I use a little bit of WD-40 around the wheels and moving parts. The battery will need replaced every 3-5 years depending on usage and your individual battery. You can usually tell when your battery needs replaced as the cutting time will decrease significantly. This is the time to go ahead and order a replacement battery, rather than waiting for the battery to fail completely.

This is one of the most expensive spares you will need, but again, I would recommend not opting for the official spare. The official branded spare battery for my robot lawn mower is approximately £90, but compatible alternatives are available for as little as £40.

Many thanks for taking the time to read this article. If you have any questions, please let me know in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев section below. I would be delighted to try to help. If you want to learn more about robot lawn mowers, the features to look out for and some suggestions for the best ones to go for, check out my guide here.

Lawn Mower Pull Cord Not Catching (How to Fix)

Nothing happens if your lawn mower pull cord isn’t catching. If your mower has a pull cord, there’s usually no way to get your mower to start, which ruins your mowing mission. It’s incredibly frustrating to do other troubleshooting to find out why your mower won’t start and realize that it’s not just that your mower needs some extra gas, but that the pull cord is faulty. In this article I’ll explain how the lawn mower pull cord mechanism works, possible causes for your lawn mower pull cord not catching, and how to fix the issue.

Why Your Lawn Mower Pull Cord Isn’t Catching

The pull cord mechanism on a lawn mower isn’t complicated, and the reason your cord isn’t catching is that one of the components of the flywheel starter assembly has failed under the stress of regular use. Typically it’s either worn or broken pawls, or a damaged pulley system. Either way, a complete OEM replacement starter assembly will typically cost less than 30 and it’s an easy DIY fix that takes a couple of minutes.

About the Starter Assembly

The starter rope is the only part of the starting system that can be seen. But inside your mower, the rope activates a series of parts that start the engine.

Learning how the mechanism functions will allow you to know how to fix a lawn mower pull cord that isn’t catching.

Sometimes the repair is simple, where the pull cord or handle itself breaks. If this is the case, simply replacing the rope or handle will be enough, and that’s a job that anyone can do.

Other issues can be the cause as well, but the good news is that these also have relatively simple fixes.

Let’s start by explaining how the pull cord on a lawn mower works, and then I’ll explain the usual reasons your cord isn’t working and tell you how to fix each one individually, and how to search for and find a brand new OEM starter assembly for your mower (what I recommend since the cost is still pretty low).

How Your Lawn Mower Pull Cord Works

When you pull the rope to start your mower, it engages the starting mechanism, which turns the engine fast enough to spark the ignition module.

The starter rope is wrapped around a pulley system. That allows it to be pulled out before it recoils into the engine. The pulley sits below the cover at the top of your walk-behind mower, and a spring is in the center of the pulley. As it’s turned, the recoil spring stretches, then snaps back when let go. This immediate snap-back retracts the pull cord and allows you to pull the rope quickly one time after another.

The recoil operates the mower’s flywheel. The flywheel sits below the starter, closer to the mower, and near the crankshaft. Magnets sit on the outside of the flywheel and generate magnetic energy as it spins. The magnets will eventually build up enough energy to fire off high-voltage sparks.

The pawls are also attached to the pulley. These are plastic wings that spin out due to the centrifugal force, helping to catch the flywheels and create a faster spinning movement.

The crankshaft is in the center of the flywheel and turns with the flywheel. As the crankshaft turns, it helps the piston move up and down, pushing more gas and air into the mower’s system. If it can’t spin fast enough, the engine won’t start.

The pawls are the most likely component to fail and it’s probably why your mower isn’t starting. That said, if the pulley or receiver is damaged, that will also cause issues.

Lawn Mower Pull Cord Not Catching: Possible Causes

There are two very common causes for a lawn mower pull cord not catching. These include:

Let’s take a closer look at each of these, and other possible causes for this mower issue.

Broken or Worn Pawls

On most modern mowers, the pawls are usually made of plastic, though some brands use metal pawls.

Robot mowers part 2

Metal pawls are far more durable. This component is exposed to tension from spinning out, as well as catching the flywheel.

Since this part is designed to spin out and catch the flywheel, if they’re worn out or broken, they won’t be able to do that. That prevents the engine from turning over, and it’s usually the reason you pull your mower starting cord and it doesn’t catch.

Are Robot Lawn Mowers FINALLY going to take our Jobs?!

In other words, it will feel like the pull cord is pulling too freely.

To check if the pawls on your mower are broken, remove the starter and pull the rope to make them pull out. If they don’t pull out, either they’re broken or something else is broken.

To repair worn or broken pawls.

Unplug the spark plug wire before starting the repair. This prevents the motor from starting, and is an important safety step whenever doing any work on your mower.
Disassemble the housing (the top cover) to expose the pull cord assembly.
Remove the center bolt and cap in order to pull the pawls out.
Inspect the pawls and determine whether they’re damaged or worn.
Insert the new pawls, then re-install the center bolt and cap, as well as the starter, into the engine.

The pull cord should catch again and allow the engine to start. If the pull cord continues to not work, the issue may be something else interfering with the pawls.

Damaged Pulley

The mower’s pull cord rope is stored in the pulley, as well as the recoil spring. The pulley will guide and feed the pull cord, in addition to storing it. Pulleys are usually made from plastic and this is a part that can crack.

A broken or cracked pulley will interfere with the rope pulling around the pulley. If it malfunctions or jams, the starter system will not work.

To replace the pulley, you’ll need to remove the starter system.

Again, start by disconnecting the spark plug wire.
Next, pull the rope out, then insert a screwdriver to secure the recoil spring and pulley.
Remove the rope, then release the screwdriver to allow tension to return to the spring.
Remove the center bolt and friction plate, which will release the pulley.
Now you can place the new pulley, first aligning it with the housing post.
Rotate the pulley, since that will tighten the spring, then insert the screwdriver to hold it in place so you can reattach the rope.
Release the screwdriver and let the rope slowly wind up. You can then place the starter back onto the engine, reassemble, and try to start your mower.

Replacement pulleys can be bought either as just the cover or with the recoil spring combined.

It’s usually easiest to replace both simultaneously. It’s a little more expensive, but for most homeowners tackling this project it makes sense to replace the entire unit as it’s simpler.

The spring can be difficult to work with, and purchasing the entire assembly won’t add too much additional cost to the repair. In my view, it’s worth it.

Other Issues Which Can Make Your Pull Cord Not Catch

While these are the most common issues with the pull cord system, they are not the only ones that can occur.

Different lawn mower brands make their components differently. Some will use plastic instead of metal for certain components. Plastic parts will wear out faster, and are less capable of withstanding the stresses of consistent use.

The reality is that if you’re buying a new mower, you’ll find that more brands are using plastic for the flywheel receiver to cut costs and remain competitive with their price.

The flywheel receiver is a metal cup that fixes to the flywheel. This is the component the pawls will connect to. If they’re worn in addition to (or instead of) the pawls, the engine will also not catch.

Receivers are less likely to cause issues unless they’re made of plastic, but since more modern mower manufacturers are using plastic for this part, it will probably become a more common cause of failure and a reason why your lawn mower pull cord may not be catching.

Older mowers which have metal components are likely to have fewer issues, even if they’ve been used for more hours. This is one reason why it might make sense to buy a used mower instead of buying new.

Can You (and should you) DIY the Fix?

If you’re handy and like working with mechanical parts, it’s pretty easy and inexpensive to replace part or all of this component on your mower.

You’ll want to know your brand and mower model. Then you can search online for your mower brand, model number, and starter/recoil/flywheel assembly OEM.

If you’re unsure of your lawn mower model number, you can find it on a small plate on your mower. It will be alongside the mower’s serial number.

For example if I had a Honda HRN216VKA self-propelled mower I bought from Home Depot, I could search Honda HRN216VKA starter assembly OEM on Amazon and quickly find the part I need for under 30.

About Tackling This Project

Like most small engines, disassembly and reassembly is pretty straight-forward. But I always recommend taking pictures of each step so you can remember where everything went as you put the mower back together.

If you’re intimidated by the idea of doing this work yourself, you have a few options. You can:

Check to see if your mower is under warranty. If it is, you can probably get this repaired at no cost.
Contact a local small engine repair shop. It should be an inexpensive job that can be completed quickly. They can also do a tune-up of your machine, change the oil, and sharpen your mower’s blades for you while it’s in for servicing.

The bottom line is that this is not a major issue with your mower (even if it feels like one). You shouldn’t send your mower to the scrap heap and rush out to buy a new mower.

It’s worth fixing, and most homeowners (even those who are not mechanically inclined at all) can replace the starter assembly on a walk-behind mower.

Maintaining Your Mower

If you’re looking to keep your mower in top shape, read my articles on winterizing your mower, and my spring mower tune-up checklist.

These quick (and easy) maintenance projects at the start and end of each season will keep your mower running great for years.

Lawnmower sputters when blades are engaged, the causes and fixes

Do you have a lawnmower that is sputtering as soon as you engage the blades? Sputtering noises may seem very uncomfortable, especially if you maintain your machine well. There are many different reasons for the engine sputtering. Damaged drive belts, dirty pulleys, or faulty safety switches can lead to this problem. If the engine’s air and fuel supply is not working correctly, it can cause the engine to have less power and be a reason for the sputtering sounds. This article lists the possible remedies that will help fix the issue and make your machine work well again.

Lawnmower sputters when blades are engaged, the causes and fixes:

Check the fuel
Check the air filters
Check the fuel filter
Check and fix the venting of the gas cap
Clean and Adjust the carburetor
Water in the fuel line
Repair or replace damaged spark plugs
Sputtering when mowing long grass

In most cases, the problem can be fixed by yourself without much trouble. If you see that the damage seems beyond your expertise, it can be a good idea to consult a professional.

This blog post gives you a step-by-step explanation for all the causes and fixes to quickly solve the sputtering problem.

1 Troubleshooting steps to fix a sputtering lawnmower:

1.1 1. Check the fuel
1.2 2. Check the Air filter
1.3 3. Check the fuel filter
1.4 4. Check the venting of the gas cap
1.5 5. Check and adjust the carburetor
1.6 6. Water in the fuel line
1.7 7. Repair damaged spark plugs
1.8 8. Sputtering when mowing long grass
1.9 9. Ask a Professional for help

2.1 1. Why is the lawnmower running rough?
2.2 2. What is the reason that causes the lawnmower to keep cutting out?
2.3 3. What is the cause of vapor lock in lawnmowers?

Troubleshooting steps to fix a sputtering lawnmower:

To fix your sputtering lawnmower, first, check and identify the cause that leads the mower to sputter. Many general causes can lead to sputtering. These reasons include dirty carburetor, old or stale fuel used, clogged or dirty air filters, water in the fuel tank, and many others. We will guide you through the different causes and explain how to fix them:

1. Check the fuel

Gas from the local gas station comprises ten percent of ethanol, which works very well for cars, but it is low quality. It is capable of melting plastic parts, which can cause sputtering. If it is kept in the garage for more than two months, it will worsen and lead a lawnmower to sputter.

Adding fuel stabilizers can make your gas last longer. Another solution is to use ethanol-free gas. A pricey fuel may help the mower to work much better than the old and cheaper fuel. Avoid using substandard gas for your lawnmower and notice the change in performance.

2. Check the Air filter

A dirty air filter can disturb the fuel flow to the combustion chamber. This will result in your engine having less power and can make it sounds rough. The problem can also result in the engine starting to sputter when blades are engaged. At that time, the engine needs more power to get the blades rotating.

Fix: To fix this problem, clear the air filters or replace them. Foam air filters can be cleaned easily with some warm water and a drop of dishwasher soap. Paper air filters should be changed or replaced. Wipe away the debris and dirt from the housing if you notice this.

3. Check the fuel filter

Another big reason for the engine to have less power is a dirty fuel filter. The mower may run rough because it does not have the correct balance of air and fuel and can cause the mower to sputter.

Fix: To fix the problem, you have to locate the fuel valve and turn it off. If there is not fuel valve, empty the fuel tank. Empty the fuel line after disconnecting it from the carburetor. Use a flashlight to check for holes, dirt, and debris in the fuel line. Use a fuel cleaner to clean the dirty fuel line. If that does not help, you have to replace the fuel line. Check the filters and vents for any dirt and debris and clean if needed.

4. Check the venting of the gas cap

Improper venting of the gas cap increases the vapor lock risk as not enough air can enter the gas tank.

Fix: To tackle this issue, remove the cap and check if the vent hole is still open. If that is not the case, try to clean it. Check again if you can blow some air through it. If you do not manage to clean it, replace it.

5. Check and adjust the carburetor

If the air filter and fuel filter are clean, the sputtering is due to a carburetor problem.

mower is sputtering due to the dirty carburetor. It is easy to tune-up or repairs the carburetor, and it involves only a few simple steps. If you monthly or seasonally follow through with these steps, you will enjoy long-term use of a mower and protect it from severe impairment or damage.

Fix: The most straightforward carburetor fix is to use carburetor cleaning spray. If that does not work, you have to remove the carburetor and clean it. If the carburetor is clean, it is also possible that your carburetor is not adjusted correctly. The engine needs the right amount of air and fuel mix to perform well. Over time it is possible that the adjustment is off and needs to be corrected. If all failed, and you tried everything related to this, it can be a good idea to consult a professional for this.

6. Water in the fuel line

If you spot water in the fuel line, this can prevent the gas-air mixture in the cylinder from proper ignition. Condensation in the gas tank can be the reason why the gas becomes contaminated with water. As water is denser than the gas, it will be collected at the fuel tank’s bottom. This water will then be sucked into the fuel lines.

Fix: Drain the water from the fuel tank, fuel line, and carburetor. Then add new gas.

7. Repair damaged spark plugs

Damaged or worn spark plugs can be a reason for engine problems. It is not the most common cause that lawnmowers sputter, but it is easy and worthwhile to check. Make it part of your lawnmowers’ annual maintenance to mitigate the risk of sputtering due to a badly working spark plug.

Fix: Remove the sparkplugs and check them. Use a sparkplug tester if you are not sure about the condition. Clean any dirt from the tip with a metal brush. Replace if needed.

8. Sputtering when mowing long grass

Mowing tall and wet grass can also make your mower sputter. Also, in this case, the engine needs to deliver more power than usual. Check the lawn mower’s bottom if there is any caked grass or dirt on the mower’s deck.

Fix: The first step is to remove the grass from the inside of the mower deck. Then set the lawnmower on a higher level so you do not cut as much grass. If the grass has been cut to this new height, you can lower the mower and cut it to this lower height. Another method is to go slower and only cut half of the width of your mower deck. So half is cut, the other half is going over already cut grass. This way, you ask less from your engine.

9. Ask a Professional for help

In case the sputtering problem persists after you followed the different steps, it can be time to ask a professional for help.

Safety measures:

Safety should always be your primary concern whenever carrying out repair work of any kind.

Unintentional starting: When working on the engine, always disconnect the sparkplug cables. This way, the engine can not start unintentionally. In case of an electric lawnmower, remove the batteries or disconnect the wall plug.

Keep away from Children: Each year, many children and adults get hurt during mowing or working on lawnmowers. Ensure that they are kept away from children when you are working on your mower. Rotating engine parts can be hazardous. And small stones or other debris can escape during mower and be thrown in the air.

Working with gas: As you know, fuel is easy to ignite. Always make sure that when you are working with gas, there is nothing to ignite it. Additional fuel contains different chemicals that can harm your eyes, so wear some eye protection.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is the lawnmower running rough?

Make sure the fuel filter is cleaned or replace when needed. If you have a clogged fuel filter, there will not be sufficient gas getting continuously to the engine. Another reason can be bad gasoline that gives rise to the same problem by affecting carburetor. It gums up the carburetor and leads the lawnmower to run rough. Also, check for the intake pipelines that are used to get the air to the carburetor. It may be clogged as well.

What is the reason that causes the lawnmower to keep cutting out?

A spark plug problem can be the cause of your lawnmower keeps cutting out. Remove the spark plugs and check them. Clean off any debris and filth with a metal brush. If needed, replace the spark plugs. If you notice that the spark plug is used, tighten it up. Another reason for your lawnmower to keep cutting out can be a dirty air filter. Check, clean, and replace if needed. Check if the fuel is reaching the engine by tapping on the carburetor’s side to aid gas flow.

What is the cause of vapor lock in lawnmowers?

Vapor lock is usually caused when the gasoline starts vaporizing too fast, and an excess amount of gas bubbles are present. This prevents the expected fuel delivery to the engine. A vapor lock in the pipelines can damage the internal part and cause significant damage to the combustion chamber or carburetor. Check the gas cap if the hole init is still open.

Final remarks

It is crucial to perform give your regular lawnmower maintenance. Lack of care may worsen its condition and can be the reason for many problems like sputtering. In case your machine has this problem, there are several steps that you can follow to fix it. The main cause is the engine not having enough power. When you do not manage to fix it, it is better to ask a professional for some assistance.

Riding Mower Won’t Start Just Clicks – Mechanics advice with pics

This is a problem that usually arises in the spring, and for most, the fix is really simple. You’ve come to the right place, and you’ll be cutting grass shortly.

So what’s the problem with a riding mower that won’t start just clicks. The most common reason for a clicking sound on a riding mower when you turn the key is a flat battery. Other possible reasons include:

Yes, it’s a long list, but you won’t have to check all of them; I’ll bet your problem is one of the first three; I have listed the likely causes in order of commonality.

If your mower won’t crank and makes no click sound – Check out “Lawn Tractor Won’t Start.”

Bad Battery Connections

Bad battery connections are very common, and by bad, I mean the power is not passing from the battery to the cables because the battery connections are loose, dirty, or damaged.

Loose Connections

Battery cables become loose because lawn tractors vibrate a lot; this is why it’s a good idea to service your mower at the start of every season, no matter how well she runs.

Dirty Connections

Dirty connections are usually caused by the weeping of battery acid at the battery poles. The acid then crystallizes, causing high resistance; it looks like a white chalky build-up on the connectors.

Cleaning Connections

To clean the connections, add a couple of spoons of baking soda and a small amount of water, and pour this onto the acid build-up on the connections and battery poles.

The soda neutralizes and removes the acid; you’ll need gloves and protective eyewear. After removing the acid, go ahead and remove the connectors and give them a good cleaning with a wire brush or sandpaper.

If you have some petroleum jelly, a small coat will prevent a future build-up.

Connector – Mower blades and engines cause a lot of vibration; bolts come loose from time to time.

Check that both connections, positive (RED ) and negative (BLACK – ), are clean and tight.

Cables – Check the cables for damage, and corrosion; mice find them irresistible.

Flat / Faulty Battery

A flat battery is a real pain in the ass. I know what it’s like; you just want to cut the grass, right? The fastest way to solve this problem is to jump-start the mower.

Leaking Battery – Check your battery for leaks before attempting to jump-start. If it leaks and it’s a sealed battery, replace it.

However, it’s usually only wet batteries that leak, so best to check your electrolyte level and top up if necessary. As you know, the acid will burn the skin and eyes, so, you know, gloves, etc.

If the acid build-up is excessive, your battery may be on its last legs, so don’t be surprised if it fails or does so soon.

But if the leaking is excessive, don’t jump-start; replace it. Batteries are easy to fit; just be sure the battery is the correct size, and the poles are in the proper places.

Jump Starting

You’ll need jump leads and any 12-volt vehicle. Most cars, trucks, and even Hybrids have a regular 12-volt battery fitted somewhere. Sometimes finding it is the hardest part. If you’re unsure of the voltage, when you find the battery, a sticker on the casing will indicate 12v.

Of course, your battery might be faulty, jump-starting will probably get you rolling, but the problem will still be there. You can test using a voltmeter test tool, which I’ve listed here on the “Small engine repair tools” page.

To jump-start – begin by connecting the positive red of the mower to the red of the car.Now connect the negative black (-) on the car to a ground (GRD) source on the mower. (Any bare metal will work)

Connect – If you are not familiar with jump-starting, you’ll find a complete guide here, “Jump starting riding mower.” Add the cables in sequence 1, 2, 3, and 4, start the mower, and while idling, remove jumper cables in reverse order 4, 3, 2, and 1.

Battery Testing

You can check the battery and alternator using a voltmeter. Batteries don’t like sitting idle; they were designed to be charged and discharged continuously. A battery that gets fully discharged will sometimes not come back to life.

Use a voltmeter to check the battery voltage, and connect red to positive and black to negative. I have listed a voltmeter on the “Small engine repair tools page.”

Test – Check battery voltage using a voltmeter – attach a voltmeter to the battery and set it to 20 volts.

If you have a reading above 12.5 volts – go ahead and attempt to start the mower; watch the voltage; a reading below 8 volts is a bad battery and needs to be replaced.

Buying a Battery

When buying batteries – wet batteries will not ship with acid. The acid must be purchased, and the battery must be filled and charged; it’s a lot of work.

I would buy a gel or maintenance-free sealed battery; these can be shipped, fully charged, and ready to roll. Check out quality common ride-on mower batteries on the Amazon link below.

Battery Charging

You’ll need a battery charger to keep your battery in top condition over winter. I recommend a trickle/Smart charger; they’re simple to use; pop on the color-coded crocodile clips, plug it in, and that’s it. Forget it till next spring, then turn the key and mow.

I’ve listed a good-quality Smart charger on the “Small engine repair tools” page that won’t break the bank.

Batteries work best and last longer when their state of charge is maintained; off-season charging is always advised. Check out “Mower winter storage video.”

Charge – Always disconnect the battery before charging. Simply connect red to red, black to black, and plug in the charger. The length of time on charge will depend on how low the battery is and the amp rating of the charger. Usually, 2-3 hours cooking time.

Faulty Solenoid

The solenoid is a large relay of sorts. When you turn the key to start your mower, a 12-volt supply from the ignition switch to the solenoid activates it. The solenoid’s job is to connect the battery to the starter motor and crank over the engine for as long as you hold the key.

The click sound is the solenoid trying to work by pulling in the armature; they fail regularly, and I replace lots of them.

However, the click sound can also be made for a few other less common reasons, and without fully diagnosing, you may find replacing the solenoid doesn’t solve the problem.

Hey, if you feel lucky and don’t want to do the diagnosing part, I understand. So, if your battery is full and the cables are tight, go ahead and replace the starter solenoid. They’re cheap and easy to fit.

Check out, “Mower solenoid repair tools” it lists useful tools and parts that will help you nail the repair.

Solenoid – Solenoids are a universal fit; they give lots of trouble.

On the upside, they’re easy to fit and cheap to buy.

Where’s the Solenoid?

Often just finding the starter solenoid can be challenging; I sometimes think that they hide them for fun. If you don’t find it under the hood, try under the rear wheel, behind the gas tank, or under the seat.

The easiest way – follow the red battery cable from the battery. On some engines, the starter and solenoid will be one unit (Kawasaki and Honda engines).

Where? – Husqvarna, craftsman-like to, hide theirs under the rear wheel fender or the dash beside the steering column.

However, most solenoids will be easy to locate. Fitting is easy, but do disconnect the mower battery first.

Solenoid Test

Remove – The first step in testing the solenoid – remove the spark plug.

If, when removing the spark plug, gas pours from the spark plug hole – move on and check “Carburetor troubleshooting.”

Test – Turn the key; if the clicking sound persists – Go ahead and replace the solenoid.

If, on the other hand, the engine cranks over, move on and check for excessive valve lash.

Tight – Check the solenoid terminals; all wiring should be secure and free from corrosion.

Binding Starter Motor

The gear head of the starter motor can bind against the flywheel; this locks the engine and starter motor together. So when you hit the key, all you hear is the click sound.

Testing

Testing for this condition involves turning the engine by hand anti-clockwise. Some engines will have a cover over the flywheel; if so, try turning the crankshaft with a ratchet and socket from the underside of the engine.

If turning the motor anti-clockwise frees it up – you have found your problem, the starter motor is binding. Usually, a spray of wd40 on the starter gearhead will fix it. If you are lucky, you can get the straw of the WD40 directed at the gearhead without removing any covers.

Starters can bind for other reasons – worn bearings, worn gear head, misaligned or loose starter motor.

Binding – Starters can bind against the flywheel. To fix it – spray the starter gear with wd40 and retest. If it continues to bind, replace the gear head or complete the starter motor.

Turning the engine anti-clockwise by hand will unlock it.

Excessive Valve Lash

Engines have valves that open and close in sequence. The inlet valve allows the fuel/air mixture in. It then closes and seals the combustion chamber. After the power stroke, the exhaust valve opens and allows spent gases out.

What’s Excessive Lash?

The valve lash describes a precise gap between the valve tip and the rocker arm. As the engine wears, this gap gets bigger and must be adjusted. The inlet and exhaust valve lash will usually be different specs.

Correct Lash

When the valve lash is set correctly – you crank over the engine, the valves open, and release cylinder pressure. This allows the engine to crank over at sufficient speed to create a spark strong enough to start up the engine.

When the valve lash is out of spec, the valve is late opening which means pressure in the cylinder is too great for the starter to overcome; that’s when you hear the click sound.

Incorrect Lash

Check out “Valve lash adjusting” it’s for a walk-behind mower, but the process is identical. Adjusting lash isn’t difficult but will require an inexpensive tool called a feeler gauge. You’ll find a link to a good feeler gauge set on the “Small engine repair tools” page.

Test – If you can, place your hands on the flywheel screen – try turning the engine clockwise.

If you’re unable, you likely have excessive valve lash. Lash should be checked every season.

Lash – Adjusting valve lash requires an inexpensive tool called a feeler gauge.

Hydro-locking

A carburetor fuel supply usually consists of a fuel bowl, float, and needle. The float is, as its name suggests, a float. Attached to it, is a needle with a rubber tip.

The function of the float is to lift the needle as the fuel level rises in the fuel bowl. When the fuel bowl is full, the needle will be pushed against the fuel feed port, sealing it.

Hydro-locking – Worn carburetor float needle seals have a habit of leaking gas into the cylinder, and when the cylinder is full of gas, the piston can’t move; this is known as hydro-locking. Because the piston can’t move, the engine will often make a clicking sound as you try to start the engine.

Removing the spark plug and turning over the engine will release the gas, but the carburetor float valve and the engine oil will need to be replaced.

Other signs that your carburetor needle seal leaks are: overfull oil level; white smoke from the muffler; oil leaking from the muffler; gas dripping from the carburetor; a strong smell of gas in the garage.

Fuel Valve Solenoid

Newer model carburetors have a fuel solenoid fitted to the bottom of the fuel bowl; its function is to stop the fuel supply when you shut the engine off. So if you have this newer type of carburetor fitted, you will not likely have a hydro-locking condition.

Leaking Carburetor Valve Seal

Failure commonly occurs in the older type carburetor when the rubber needle seal wears. This results in fuel filling the carburetor and eventually entering the cylinder and crankcase.

Gas in the Oil

If you have gas in the oil, don’t run the engine; the diluted oil offers little protection to internal components. First, fix the issue by replacing the carburetor and then changing the oil.

Check out “Carburetor types” page; it lists popular mower carburetors. Check out “Carburetor troubleshooting” also for more details on the issue.

Check Oil – Too much oil is a sign that your carburetor needle seal is leaking unless, of course, you overfilled the oil yourself.

Needle – The needle wears over time; they turn pink when worn. The fix – replace the seal or the complete carburetor. Using your manual fuel valve will prevent future problems.

Faulty Ignition Switch

A faulty ignition switch can cause all kinds of problems; the click sound can be caused by a bad connection in or at the back of the switch.

Try the Wiggle Test

When turning the key, wiggle the wiring at the back of the ignition switch and see if it makes a difference. It will very often show you where the fault is. Wiring pinouts are specific to each manufacturer.

Wiggle – Try wiggling the wires at the back of the ignition switch while attempting to start the engine; you may need a helper.

Often wires come loose but do check them for corrosion.

Faulty Control Module

Control Modules are not fitted to all mowers. The function of the control module is to receive a start request from the ignition switch and to output a 12-volt supply to the starter solenoid, but only if all safety sensors are in the correct position.

Control Module Test

Control modules do fail and also suffer from loose connectors. Try the wiggle test on the connectors and check for obvious signs of water/corrosion damage. The control module will often live behind the dashboard in a plastic box about the size of a mobile phone.

Wiggle – Like the ignition switch; wires come loose, have a helper attempt to start the engine while you wiggle the wiring connectors.

Check also for damage, water, or scorch marks on the panel itself.

Faulty Starter Motor

A faulty starter can fail electrically, mechanically, or both. Electrically – the copper winding can break; brushes can break or wear out. Mechanically – the top and bottom bearings and the gear head can wear. These issues can cause the starter to bind, so all you hear is the click sound.

Testing the Starter

Checking the starter motor is easy; connect a 12-volt supply direct from the mower battery to the supply wire at the starter. An even easier way is to cross the starter solenoid as per the guide below.

If you find your starter has failed, removing and fitting a new one is simple. The starter motor for Briggs and Stratton offers a good quality starter. Be mindful that BS has two types of starter – plastic gear head or metal; check before ordering.

Starter – Some starters will have a solenoid and starter motor combined in one unit.

To test, use a jumper lead to bring power from the positive of the battery to the positive post of the starter. If the engine doesn’t crank – Replace the starter.

Common – Most mowers will have the starter and solenoid separate.

Solenoids are fitted to the body, usually under the hood.

Test – Cross a metal screwdriver from one connection to the other, as per the picture.

There will be arcing (sparking) as the screwdriver contacts the poles.

RISK OF FIRE – Keep clear of gasCAUTION THE ENGINE MAY TURN OVER – Place the mower in the park with the parking brake applied and the blade off.

If the engine doesn’t crank over – your starter is faulty; replace it.

Internal Engine Damage

If you’re still reading, I fear the worst has happened. It’s unusual for mower engines to fail completely. They’re generally well-built robust units. I have seen failures like the con rod breaking out through the engine casing; the main bearing seizing; the con rod bending; cylinder head failures.

Some of these faults can be repaired, but most are uneconomic to repair.

New Engine

On the upside, if you have a total failure, a complete engine fully built with a guarantee is available, and fitting involves four bolts, two electrical connectors, a fuel line, a throttle cable, and a crank pulley.

BS and Kohler’s engines are of great quality and ready to go. The completed job will take less than two hours. Be mindful that all engines are shipped without oil.

Failure – Total failure doesn’t happen often.A hard life, and low/poor quality oil, without doubt, increase the chances.