Lawn mower blade jammed. Electric Lawn Mower Blades Not Spinning? Try This

Electric Lawn Mower Blades Not Spinning? Try This

It’s a beautiful day. The lawn is dry and lush. You don’t have any other commitments. Time hit that lawn you’ve been avoiding with your always reliable electric mower.

You get your hat and sunglasses, pull the mower out, and get to mowing.

Only the mower isn’t mowing.

In fact, it doesn’t sound like it’s doing much of anything. What happened to be reliable?

Now with a gas mower, you’d be able to tell if the engine was at least trying to start. It might need gas or more priming but you’d have an idea if the engines were cycling and blades rotating. Sure, it might stall out or never fully engage but you’d still have an idea.

With an electric mower, troubleshooting is a bit different, although some things remain the same.

Below are six things to consider and tips to follow when troubleshooting why your electric lawn mower blades aren’t spinning.

Safety First

Yes, it’s an electric mower, and maybe you’ve had it for a while. Know how it feels and reacts. Know all the safety precautions and warnings.

However, remember don’t give in to temptation and start troubleshooting without considering safety items first. Just because you’re sure you know it all, don’t give in. In other words, don’t rely on memory when a quick review is always appropriate.

You might remember something you forgot by reviewing, like don’t put your hands, or worse, your face close to the blades without making sure the mower’s source of power is secured.

Yes, that’s a bit of an exaggeration but does it hurt to remind yourself of that tip?

Also, you probably want to do your troubleshooting on dry concrete and not on the lawn. Even if it is dry outside, if for some reason you get an unexpected afternoon shower, concrete dries quicker than grass. If you’ve got a garage, even better.

And, if you’ve never thought about this, have you ever noticed it’s easier to see under your mower on concrete than grass. Now, this isn’t a scientific reason listed in the manufacturer’s manual, but it does seem like the light reflecting off concrete makes the underneath of the mower brighter than lush green grass does.

Last but not least, consult or have your manufacturer or owner’s manual with you as stated above. If you don’t have a hard copy, you can usually find one with a Google search. Search for something along the lines of “[Your Brand] [Model Number] Manual PDF.”

What Does That Manufacturer’s Manual Recommend?

Another good reason not to rely on memory is that the manufacturer’s manual that originally came with your mower or you found with the help of Google allows you not to remember everything. Why rack your brain troubleshooting when there’s always a handy list in these manuals that gets you started on the right path.

Heck, you might even get lucky and fix the problem right off the bat.

So, before doing any other Google searches or checking for YouTube videos, check out that manual that was written for your specific model of mower.

Always Check You Power Supply

This will often be the first recommendation in any manufacturer’s manual. Do you have power? If you don’t have power, whether it’s a corded mower or battery-operated mower, you will absolutely not get any spinning blades.

So, check to make sure you’re getting power to the mower. If you have a corded mower, test the outlet by plugging something else into it. If whatever you plugged in works, you know it’s not an outlet problem.

If, however, whatever you do plug in doesn’t work, check your breaker. If the breaker looks good, test another outlet with the same device. From there, try a different extension cord.

Side Note: Almost all corded mowers don’t come with their own cord. It’s your responsibility to provide the cord that runs from the outlet to the mower so ensure the cord you’re using is functional. If it isn’t, try another.

You see where all this is going. Exhaust the possibility it may be a simple outlet or breaker or cord problem.

If you have a battery-powered electric mower, make sure the battery indicator on the battery is showing that it’s charged. That doesn’t necessarily mean it is because you can get a false reading. This is where a battery tester comes in handy.

If everything looks good at the power supply, then you need to turn your attention to the load, i.e., the mower.

Is the Mower Starting?

Okay, you’ve cleared up any issues with the source. Now let’s take a look if the situation is a power failure at the motor itself.

If you have a corded motor, make sure the connection of the cord at the mower is good and not loose. Also, check the prongs and make sure there aren’t any bent or damaged pieces.

If everything looks good there, check the circuit breaker on the mower and make sure it isn’t tripped. Go ahead and push the RESET and see if that works.

Lastly, if neither of those work, you may have a bad motor and blade control switch. This switch is what controls power to the motor and blades so if this has gone bad, it’ll need replacement. You can attempt this yourself, of course, but the manufacturer’s manual will probably recommend contacting a technician or service center.

If you have a battery-powered mower, you’ll need to check the battery again. If it says it’s charged but there’s no power, you may have to replace the battery.

Before doing that, though, does your mower require more than one battery? If it does, do you have the appropriate number of batteries installed?

Also, does your mower have a battery selector switch? You’d think this would be an automatic thing but, for safety reasons, sometimes mowers require you to engage the battery, so to speak, before using the mower. Like putting a key in an ignition. Check the switch and make sure it’s put in the RUN mode, or whatever your manufacturer calls it.

The Mower Runs but Vibrates Badly and the Blades Barely Spin

The bad news is, if this is what you’re experiencing, it’s probably one of three. The good news is, it’s probably only one of three things. And all three apply to both a corded mower and a battery-operated mower.

Yes, that doesn’t sound encouraging but at least you’ll have a pretty good idea of what the problem is and what it’ll require to resolve.

The first thing you want to check is to make sure you don’t have any foreign object stuck under the mower that may be jammed and the mower’s blades from rotating normally. This can be anything from a branch to a big chunk of turf jammed underneath the mower.

If there’s something jammed, remove it and test the mower again. If there isn’t anything jammed then you’re probably dealing with a damaged drive system or a damaged motor shaft. If it’s either one of these, you’re going to have to get repairs done before any mowing will be possible in the future.

The Blades Don’t Spin at All

If you power up your mower and the blades don’t spin at all right from the start, all manufacturer’s guides pretty much say the same thing:

STOP IMMEDIATELY!

One of the reasons is it might be, like in the previous tip, some kind of foreign object jammed near the blades, preventing them from spinning. You need to stop and secure power to safely inspect and remove the object before returning to normal operation.

The other reason is probably damage to the drive system. Only this time, instead of unusual or violent vibrations, the damage is complete and all rotational power to the blades is gone and needs to be repaired.

But again, at least you know the reason why now.

Conclusion

Having an electric mower is a good thing. It’s environmentally friendly and requires little maintenance compared to a traditional mower. However, that doesn’t mean it won’t experience similar issues that will affect its operational capability.

Understanding the type of issues you may encounter with an electric mower, though, will go a long way in maintaining your mower over the long term while minimizing issues before they can potentially lead to serious damage.

I’ve been helping homeowners with appliance repair since 2016. Starting out as an enthusiastic amateur, I’ve since worked with many Appliance, HVAC, and DIY experts over the last 7 years. My mission is to help your fix your appliances and systems. saving you money and lowering your energy bills. Visit my author page to learn more! Read more

Hi there! My name’s Craig, and I started Appliance Analysts back in 2017.

My mission is to help our readers solve appliance-related issues without paying through the nose for contractors or a whole new model. I’m joining up with experts from across the HVAC, Appliance Repair, DIY industries to share free expert advice that will save you time, stress, and money.

Learn the reasons why a lawn mower won’t start after winter or during peak season, and how to fix those problems.

Family Handyman

Introduction

Most of the time when a lawn mower won’t start the cause is a problem with the gas or the lawn mower carburetor.

What to Do if Your Lawn Mower Won’t Start

Whatever kind of lawn mower you’ve got, the last thing you want once winter finally lifts and spring has sprung is a lawn mower that won’t start.

If you’ve taken the proper steps to winterize your lawn mower, you’re far less likely to be dealing with such issues. It’s also why you should tune up your lawn mower at the start of every season. However, it’s not out of the ordinary to find your gas-powered lawn mower not starting from time to time, so it’s important to know why your lawn mower isn’t starting and how to fix it.

Project step-by-step (6)

Check the Gas Tank

Let’s start with the obvious. Before you have a heart attack pulling on the rip cord, you’ll want to check the fuel. Like any gasoline-powered engine, lawn mowers run out from time to time. Maybe you forgot it was running on fumes when you finished mowing last time. It sounds simple, but we’ve all overlooked the gas tank from time to time.

Even if there is gas in the mower, if the fuel’s been in there more than a month, that could be the problem. Gas sitting around too long in the tank can get contaminated with dirt and extra moisture.

So if your gasoline has been in the mower for more than month, drain the gas properly, dispose of it correctly, and fill up the mower with new gas. It may take quite a few pulls to suck the new gas into the lawn mower carburetor, so be prepared to clean and dry the plug a few more times.

Add fuel stabilizer when you fill up the tank to help protect the gasoline in there from dirt and moisture.

Family Handyman

Check the Spark Plug

Start by making sure the lawn mower spark plug cable is connected to the plug itself. It’s quite possible that it got pulled off there over the winter while the mower was being stored in the garage.

If that’s not the issue, the next step is to remove the spark plug to see if it’s wet. There’s no way the engine will start if it is. So clean the plug with carburetor cleaner and let it dry. Cleaning it with compressed air isn’t enough; you need a solvent to remove oil residue. If it’s really grimy and dirty, it might be best to change the spark plug.

Fertnig/Getty Images

Check for Debris in the Mower Deck

Grass clippings can get clogged in the mower deck, which can prevent the blade from turning. This is a common problem if you’ve cut wet grass or let the lawn get especially long and bushy between cuttings. If the cord is hard to pull, that’s a good sign that there’s debris clogging up your mower’s deck.

This is a pretty easy problem to solve. With the mower off, flip it on its side or upside down and scrape out the gummed up grass clippings. Once that’s done, you can flip it back over and start it up again.

JJ Gouin/Getty Images

Check the Air Filter

The lawn mower’s carburetor regulates the mix of gasoline and air going into the engine where it’s burned to create power. Before air goes into the carburetor it passes through the air filter which prevents dirt and debris from getting into it.

If the air filer is clogged or dirty, it throws the ratio out of whack. Sometimes that results in your lawn mower smoking, and sometimes it prevents it from starting entirely. So take a look at the air filter to see if it’s dirty. If so, you can clean it or just change it outright.

Robert Maxwell for Family Handyman

Check the Carburetor

Another common reason for a lawn mower that won’t start is a clogged or dirty carburetor. It can also cause your mower to run rough or spew black smoke when you’re trying to cut the grass. If that’s the case, you may need to clean the carburetor.

To get to the carburetor, you’ll have to remove the air filter. Once that’s out of the way, you can remove the carburetor in order to clean it.

Once it’s out, check for corrosion. If you see chalky/powdery white corrosion like this, it’s probably better just to replace it. To clean it, take it apart and spray carburetor cleaner on the parts and inside the housing. After that, put the carburetor back together and reinstall it in the mower.

Check the Fuel Filter

Like the air filter, the fuel filter prevents dirt and debris from getting into the combustion chamber of your lawn mower’s engine, taking that stuff out before the gas gets mixed with air in the carburetor. Problems with the fuel filter might also result in the engine sputtering or rough idling, even before it gets to the point of preventing the mower from starting.

To start, tap the side of the carburetor to help the flow of gas. If that doesn’t work, you might have a clogged filter.

Not all lawn mowers have a fuel filter, but for the ones that do, it’s usually located in the fuel line or the fuel tank. To find out where the fuel filter is at, check your lawn mower’s owners manual, which will also tell you what type of filter it is.

If the filter is in the fuel tank, you’ll need to drain the gas from the mower into a drain pan, assuming you can’t run the engine until it’s out of gas. If the filter is in the fuel line, clamp off the fuel line before removing the filter. Once you have the filter off, you can check to see if it’s dirty and clogged by holding it up the light. If it is, install a new one. Make sure it works with this lawn mower maintenance checklist.

How to fix a lawnmower pull cord that is stuck, step by step

You have finally decided to take your lawnmower out to give your grass a nice, elegant look. Just as you try to pull the starter rope on your handle, it seems badly jammed. You don’t want to damage your cable, so you stop pulling it right away. You can’t resume your mowing unless you fix the pull cord. Luckily, fixing isn’t a lengthy procedure and can be performed in less than an hour. There can be several reasons for a stuck pull cord, and we shall investigate those causes separately in this blog post.

How to fix a lawnmower pull cord that is stuck, step by step:

• Step 1: To start, inspect your blade for any stuck strands of grass or debris. Remove them as they cause the pull cord to get stuck.
• Step 2: Open the blower housing and inspect the recoil starter. If it appears damaged, you need to replace it.
• Step 3: Check if the engine is hydro-locked, remove the spark plug and pull the rope repeatedly to restart the engine.
• Step 4: Inspect if there’s some structural failure in the engine, such as a bent crankshaft.

The pull cord on a lawnmower is connected to a hub that spins the crankshaft of your mower’s engine, thus causing the blades to turn. At the same time, the engine draws an air-fuel mixture from the carburetor. The firing of the spark plug initiates the ignition. Hence, your engine starts over. If there are obstructions within the mower blades or the engine’s starter hub, you won’t pull the starter cord.

If you are looking for an elaborated description of the fixes mentioned above, you should stay tuned to this blog post as we shall provide you with insight regarding the pull cord-related problems.

Causes and fixes of a stuck pull cord on a lawnmower:

A stuck pull cord on a lawnmower may be an outcome of various issues. We shall address them one by one as mentioned below:

Equipment needed:

For performing these fixes, you don’t need sophisticated equipment. Just make sure you have a screwdriver, wrench set, a rag, and a pair of safety gloves at your disposal.

Step 1. Inspect for blade obstruction:

You may often witness a situation when the blade gets stuck with debris or any branch. This condition prevents It from spinning due to obstruction between the blade and the mower deck. As said before, the pull cord is responsible for spinning the mower blades that eventually start the engine. Hence, blades not able to spin mean that the cord cannot be pulled.

– Fix: Tilt the mower to dislodge the obstruction:

To free the blades from any debris caught, you should tilt it over first. However, you should do that with your air filter pointing upwards. It is better to remove the spark plug cable so that the engine doesn’t start over. Now check if debris, grass, or a branch getting stuck between the debris curtain and the blade prevents the blades from spinning. If it does, you should remove it. Putting the spark plug back on and tilting the mower back shall now fix your problem with the pull cord.

Step 2. Check and fix the recoil starter:

If there isn’t any debris preventing the blades from spinning, then the chances are that your recoil starter might be damaged. For such walk-behind lawnmowers, the recoil starter is easy to find and replace.

– Fix: Remove the mower housing to view the starter:

The recoil starter is situated under the blower housing. Before doing anything, ensure that the spark plug wire is removed. Also, release the starter cable or the pull cord from the mower handle. Now, remove the screws securing the blower housing.

Check the recoil starter for any damage. Check whether it can spin by pulling the starter cable right near to it. Also, see if it is free from any debris or obstruction that may prevent it from spinning. If the cable appears tangled, you should rewind it.

Replacing the recoil starter:

Replacing a recoil starter is seldom difficult. To perform the replacement, remove the recoil starter guard. Next, use a screwdriver to remove the tabs connecting it to the blower housing.

Remove the old starter and add the identical one to its place in the tabs. Reinstall the guard and attach the blower housing back onto the mower.

Note: Please make sure that you go through your owner’s manual to search and purchase the recoil starter precisely in accordance with your device’s model number.

Step 3. Check for hydro-locking:

Hydro-locking of the engine is a condition when oil escapes from the crankcase into the cylinder casing. The high viscous fluid jams the cylinder, thus preventing it from sliding and thus rotating the crankshaft. Hydro-locking generally occurs when you have tilted the mower upside down with the air filter pointing downwards. If you’ve heard about this for the first time, then don’t worry as the remedy to this problem isn’t much difficult.

But first, you need to diagnose whether the problem actually is hydro-locking or not. To check for this, remove the spark plug and the spark plug wire. Clamp the control bar at the mower handle to release the blade brake. With the blower housing removed, manually rotate the starter cup to see if the engine turns. If it turns, reinstall the blower housing.

– Fix: Remove the spark plug and pull the rope:

To fix this, make sure that the spark plug is removed along with its wire. Place a dry cloth near the spark plug hole since we will spray the oil out of the engine. Try to start your engine by pulling the rope several times. You shall notice oil being thrown out of the spark plug hole.

When the oil has stopped spraying out, reattach the spark plug and connect the wire back to the plug. Pull the rope again to see if the engine starts. When the engine starts, it might run erratically and throw out some white smoke. That is due to it being burning oil remnants along with the fuel. It shall start running smoothly once the oil has been completely burnt away.

Note: To prevent the hydro-locking of your engine in the future, we recommend that you should consult the owner’s manual regarding the tilt instructions. Generally, for most walk-behind mowers, tilting the deck with the air filter pointing up is the way to go.

Step 4. Engine seizure:

While diagnosing for hydro-locking, if the engine’s starter cup doesn’t turn at all, it indicates your engine’s serious problem. This condition means that the engine has either encountered a bent crankshaft or a stuck piston.

– Fix: Spraying lubricant in the plug’s hole:

Although engine related faults can seldom be repaired, some ways of fixing a stuck cylinder involve spraying a lubricant in the spark plug hole and turning the blades with the spark plug fixed back on. Don’t forget to wear gloves while dealing with the blades. If the engine seizure can’t be fixed, then you don’t have any choice other than to buy a new lawnmower.

Related Questions:

What causes a push mower to lock up?

If the mower has been sitting in wet conditions for a long time or haven’t replenished the engine oil, the piston can get stuck, and the engine can lock up. To prevent this lock-up, you need to remove the spark plug and add the lubricant from the hole into the engine. Afterward, put the spark plug back on and rotate the mower blades with the safety gloves on. This remedy shall help you in cranking up your dead engine.

Why is my pull cord stuck?

If you see that your pull cord is stuck, a few reasons might make this happen. For one, the development of grass or debris needs to be removed to allow the pull cord to work again. You might also have an issue with your recoil starter, which may be broken.

Why is my lawnmower not starting?

If you can’t start your lawnmower, the chances are that the following factors might be causing this problem:

• Spark plug: A worn out or damaged spark plug
• Carburetor: Deposits formed in the carburetor that can clog its jets.
• Air filter: The air filter might have been dirty due to the accumulated dust.
• Flywheel key: A broken flywheel key might not be delivering enough power from the engine
• Fuel: An empty fuel tank can also be a problem.
• Battery: If the battery voltage is down, the ignition won’t occur.
• Starter motor: For riding lawnmower engines, a bad starter motor can also cause starting problems.

Final Remarks:

When the pull cord from your lawnmower is stuck, it means you can not start. There can be several reasons why this happens. This blog post helps you check the various causes and help you fix them. If you look at the multiple reasons, you will notice that proper maintenance is not always the cause, but it will prevent many problems. It will ensure a long and relatively trouble-free usage for many years to come.

How To Remove Your Lawn Mower Blade? (2023 Guide)

Sometimes your lawn mower blade just needs to be replaced. Sharpening can keep you going for a little while, but the metal itself will eventually wear out and get too thin from repeated sharpening.

When it’s time to replace your blade, you need to know how to remove your current lawn mower blade first.

The process is relatively simple and can be done at home with a minimum of tools. Some professionals might offer a blade change service for a fee, but this is so easy I don’t think it’s worth paying for unless you have a large riding lawn mower.

I’ll cover riding lawn mowers too, just in case you have the equipment needed to make that change.

In this guide you’ll learn:

• How to tell when your lawn mower’s blade needs to be replaced
• How to replace 3 kinds of lawn mower blades
• And much more!

What Are the Reasons You Need To Remove Your Lawn Mower Blade?

Lawn mower blades tend to be pretty durable and long lasting tools, especially when you know how to sharpen them. But, they do eventually wear out and need replacement. A poorly mowed lawn is only the least of your problems when you have a lawn mower blade that needs to be replaced.

That doesn’t mean that a bad mowing job isn’t a big problem, though. Uneven, ragged, mowing can seriously stress your lawn and made it difficult to keep your grass healthy.

Removing your lawn mower blade is the first step to replace it, so it’s an important skill to have.

Of course, replacing your lawn mower’s blade isn’t the only time you might need to remove the blade. For instance, if you have blades for different uses, you might need to switch between them in the middle of the season. Or, your blade might need some maintenance like a sharpening session or a thorough cleaning.

Some people will remove lawn mower blades to help winterize their mowers. I don’t think that’s particularly necessary unless you live somewhere with high humidity and rust risk in the winter. But, it can sometimes make storage easier or give you an opportunity to do some maintenance on the blade during the off season.

How To Tell When It’s Time To Replace Your Lawn Mower Blade?

Knowing that you might need to replace your lawn mower’s blade won’t do you any good if you can’t tell when it’s time for a replacement. Here are a few signs to look for that it’s time to replace your blade:

Your Lawn Mower Blade has Bent or Twisted

Despite being relatively simple tools, lawn mower blades are still optimized to provide good cutting power. Any sign that your blade has started bending or twisting means, at a minimum, that your blade isn’t performing the way it should any longer.

At worst, your blade could be starting to damage your lawn mower itself, or may start damaging your lawn mower soon.

As soon as you notice signs of bending or twisting in your lawn mower’s blade, it’s time for a new one.

Nicks and Gouges Make It Difficult to Sharpen

Re-sharpening your lawn mower’s blade can extend the life quite a bit, but sometimes the surface scratches on your blade are too deep to work around. Scratches are a normal part of any used lawn mower blade. Grass, gravel, rocks, and even small clumps of dirt can all cause scratches over time.

Usually small surface scratches are no problem. You can buff them out while sharpening, and many scratches won’t be anywhere that affects the function of the blade.

However, if you’re starting to get deeper scratches and gouges, more than about 2-3mm deep, it may be time to consider replacement. That’s because deeper scratches and gouges can cause weak points in the blade. The last thing you want is your lawn mower blade cracking while you’re using it.

In a worse case scenario a deep gash could crack and eventually break free entirely. If you’re lucky, a broken blade will damage your lawn mower. If you’re not lucky the blade could fly free of the mower and cause damage to you, or the people, plants, and buildings around you.

It Isn’t Holding An Edge

This is less common, but some blades will lose their ability to hold an edge over time. Usually this happens with blades where only the original cutting edge was fully hardened, and problems with hardening can happen with any manufacturer and model.

Over time these blades just won’t take or hold an effective cutting edge, losing their ability to cut grass at the same time. If you’re having to sharpen your lawn mower’s blade more and more often it’s probably time to remove the blade and replace it.

It’s Not Performing Well

The last reason is both the most common, and the simplest. You might need to remove and replace your blade simply because it doesn’t seem to be working as well anymore. Sharpening may be an option at this phase, but it depends on the blade and owner. Lawn mower blades are usually pretty affordable, so I know plenty of people who don’t bother sharpening their blades when they’ve started to go dull.

If you’re getting uneven clumps of grass after mowing, chances are you either need to sharpen your blade, or replace it.

How To Remove Your Push Lawn Mower Blade

To start with, let’s talk about one of the most common kinds of lawn mower—the motorized push behind lawn mower. Chances are, if you have a suburban-sized lawn, this is the kind of lawn mower you use.

Step 1: Get Your Lawn Mower Ready

The first step to remove your lawn mower’s blade is to get it ready to be tilted or flipped over. For gas-powered lawn mowers that means you should drain the gas tank (if possible) and remove the spark plug.

Remove the battery from battery powered lawn mowers.

Unplug electric corded lawn mowers.

This prep helps prevent accidents and can also help your lawn mower last longer in the case of gas-powered mowers.

Once the power source is safe, either tilt your lawn mower up so you can access the blade, or consider flipping it entirely on it’s back. I like to place a tarp under the lawn mower to help prevent scratches on the outer casing.

Step 2: Remove Fasteners

Your lawn mower’s blade should be held on by 1 to 3 bolts in the center of the blade. It’s unlikely that you’ll be able to loosen these bolts with your hands, so you’ll need a wrench, or in some cases a screwdriver, to get them free.

Try to only use tools the right size and shape from the bolt to prevent stripping them or changing the shape. Most lawn mower blade fasteners can be replaced, but some are a non-standard size or length and can be hard to find.

Once the fasters are loose, put them in a small bag or a to keep them safe.

Step 3: Lift the Blade Off

With the fasteners gone your blade should lift free of the lawn mower. I recommend having a can of WD-40, or a rag and some water, in case the blade is stuck in place. Gently work the blade free until it’s completely loose.

Remember, don’t use too much force at this phase or you’ll risk breaking either the blade or it’s attachment points.

How To Remove Your Riding Lawn Mower Blade

Step 1: Park Your Riding Lawn Mower

First you’ll need to drive your riding lawn mower into a garage, barn, or other sheltered area and park it. You don’t want anything to move while you’re working, so go ahead and use the brake systems and other lock settings to keep the lawn mower as immobile as possible.

Step 2: Lift The Lawn Mower So You Have Work Space

The next step is getting the lawn mower lifted enough that you can get your tools underneath and have room to work. Some people drive up a ramp onto a special maintenance frame to get access, while others lift the lawn mower onto wooden blocks.

I personally recommend using a riding lawn mower and tractor lift since it’s the safest and most secure option. However, those lifts can be relatively expensive equipment so not everyone uses them.

Whatever method you choose, check to make sure the lawn mower is secure and unlikely to fall. Think about this the same way you would think about lifting a car and working under it, the risks are very similar.

Step 3: Match The Bolt To The Appropriate Wrench

The larger, tighter bolts of a riding lawn mower’s blade generally need a wrench to remove. I recommend checking to make sure you have the right size, or setting the width of an adjustable wrench, before you start to get to work.

The wrench is a good fit if it’s wide enough to reach all the way around the bolt without any wiggle room. The more space between the sides of the bolt and the wrench, the more likely you’ll accidentally curve the corners of the bolt when you remove it.

Step 4: Remove the Fastener

Most riding lawn mower blades only have a single attachment bolt, but some do have more than one. Use the wrench to remove each bolt, until the blade is free.

I don’t recommend using a breaking bar unless absolutely necessary in this process. A small amount of WD-40 should be enough to loosen particularly stubborn bolts. Alternatively you can use a rubber mallet on the end of the wrench to provide some more force without risking damaging the bolts.

Step 2: Remove the Blade

Slowly and gently remove the blade if it didn’t come free on it’s own after you’ve removed the fasteners. Once the blade is free I recommend taking a moment to clean the area and remove any rust or corrosion that could make reattaching or removing the blade more difficult in the future.

How To Remove Your Reel Lawn Mower Blade

Reel lawn mowers are a little different, if you need to replace or repair the blades you’re not going to remove them from the lawn mower. Instead, your best option is to remove the other components of your reel mower and then replace them after sharpening or repairing the blade.

In some cases, you might replace the whole reel blade and then reattach the other components to the new blade.

Step 1: Remove the Drive Wheels

First, lay your reel mower on a flat space where it’s relatively stable. Your drive wheels are on either side of the blade, usually covered by a plastic hub cap. You can use a screwdriver to remove the hub caps without damaging them. Set the hub caps aside.

There is a clip holding both wheels to the axel. Use the same screwdriver to pull the clip loose. Set aside.

Next is a pinion gear. This can be removed by turning it counterclockwise until it comes free. You should be able to turn the gear with your hands.

There’s one more clip you’ll need to remove, also on the axel. Pull this away from the assembly plate. While you can dissasemble the assembly plate as well, it isn’t necessary and can cause irreparable damage to your lawn mower, so I don’t recommend it. Instead you’ll work around it to get this pin free.

Once the last pin is out you should be able to remove the blade from that side. Repeat on the other drive wheel.

Step 2: Remove the Rear Wheels

Most lawn reel mowers have a set of rear wheels for added stability. Some will also have a set of front wheels, but the removal process is the same for both.

All you need to do here is unbolt the wheels from the main assembly with a wrench. Try to make sure the wrench fits securely before you start to help avoid damaging the bolts.

Step 3: Remove the Mower Handle

Most reel mower handles are held on with a small pin near the bottom of the handle. Use a screwdriver to help remove the pin, and push the lawn mower handle toward the bottom to help remove some pressure from the pin.

Once the pin is free, the handle should be easy to remove. If it sticks, clean off the bottom of the handle and grease it with some mineral oil or WD-40 to help prevent further corrosion and make future maintenance easier.

Once the handle is removed you should be left with the blade and the assembly plate. Removing the blade is simple at this point, or you can sharpen the blade still attached to the assembly plate.

My Final Thoughts On Removing Your Lawn Mower Blade

Removing your lawn mower blade might not be fun or exciting, but it is an important skill to have. This guide should cover just about any standard lawn mower in the United States, but it’s also a good idea to check your users manual if you have it.

Remember that not all maintenance means you have to remove the blade. You can even sharpen some blades without taking them off of the lawn mower. I’ve written a guide to sharpening blades without removing them, but it does work best for blades with a simpler design.

As always, if you’re concerned that you can’t safely perform maintenance on your lawn mower yourself you should take it to a professional instead. No amount of savings is worth taking unnecessary risks to maintain your lawn mower.

With that in mind, happy mowing, and may your lawn mower never need more than basic maintenance!