Lawn mower oil flush. Can I Use Transmission Fluid in Oil to Clean My Engine

Can I Use Transmission Fluid in Oil to Clean My Engine?

Over time, engines can accumulate deposits that reduce power and performance. Since automatic transmission fluid contains detergents to clean sludge, some DIYers add a small amount of transmission fluid in their oil to clean the engine prior to oil changes.

ATF, however, is not formulated for use in automotive engines. Instead, a product that’s designed to flush engines is a far-superior approach.

How Sludge Forms

Stop-and-go driving, prolonged idling, trips too short for the engine to reach full operating temperature, towing, the ingestion of airborne dirt, fuel dilution, water condensation and oxidized oil all can promote sludge build-up in motor oil and transmission fluid.

Sludge clogs narrow oil passages, restricting oil flow to vital parts, especially the upper valve train area, causing wear.

Transmission Fluid In Oil Reduces Cleaning Power

In most cases, adding automatic transmission fluid to motor oil reduces cleaning power. That’s because the detergency of ATF is less than motor oil. Why is that?

ATF is exposed to lower levels of combustion byproducts and contaminants than motor oil, so it is formulated with reduced detergency. Instead, ATFs have elevated levels of friction modifiers and other additives that help protect gears and clutches.

Transmission Fluid In Oil Reduces Wear Protection

Second, adding ATF alters the motor oil formulation and reduces its effectiveness.

A good motor oil is a fine balance of base oils and additives designed to fight wear, reduce friction, prevent deposits and slowly dissolve accumulated sludge. The cleaning power of motor oil is designed to work gradually over subsequent oil changes and not necessarily all at once. Adding a foreign substance to the oil disrupts the formulated chemistry, negatively impacting wear protection, detergency and more.

Changes Motor Oil Viscosity

Finally, ATF can alter the viscosity of the oil, reducing wear protection.

Viscosity is the oil’s most important property, influencing wear protection and fuel efficiency. Increasing or decreasing viscosity by adding a little transmission fluid in oil to clean sludge can lead to increased engine wear.

Use An Engine Flush Instead

If you want effective sludge removal and cleaning power, we recommend using AMSOIL Engine Transmission Flush. It helps to restore fuel economy, increase operating efficiency and reduce emissions in gasoline and diesel engines, and automatic transmissions. Its potent, detergent-based formula cleans sludge and deposit build-up.

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I Got Lawn Mower Oil in the Cylinder – What Do I Do?

Having a bit of trouble getting your mower started? Got oil or a bunch of carbon buildup on your spark plugs? You could have a lawn mower with oil in the cylinder.

Where diagnosing your problems can get a little complicated depends on the type of lawn mower you have. Since two-stroke engines run on a fuel and oil mix they will have different reasons for excess oil in the cylinder compared to four-stroke lawn mowers.

But, in either case, you’ll want to figure out what is causing oil to get into the combustion chamber and take care of it before it leads to any serious issues.

Why is There Oil in My Cylinder?

The reason why your lawn mower has oil in the cylinder largely depends on the type of engine it has. I’ll break down the potential causes for two-stroke vs four-stroke mowers separately below.

Two-Stroke Engines

When it comes to two-stroke engines, there is actually always a bit of oil residue in the cylinder and usually on the spark plug. The mixture of oil and fuel that these types of engines burn is meant to leave a bit of oil behind as a lubricant. But, If you’ve noticed a bunch of excess oil in the cylinder of your two-stroke mower there might be a problem.

This is usually caused by a “rich” mixture meaning that too much oil has been added to the fuel. It can be kind of tricky to measure the exact amount of oil needed each time you put gas in your mower, but it is really important to get it right.

If you’re sure you have it right, you could have a spark plug that isn’t firing reliably. You’ll probably hear the mower running roughly if this is the case, but it would mean the fuel isn’t being completely burned and is leaving oil behind.

Four-Stroke Engines

With four-stroke engines, the main reasons for lawn mower oil in the cylinder are: tilting the lawn mower incorrectly, overfilling the oil reservoir, oil leaking into the gas tank, and damaged engine parts. The best way to tell if your lawn mower has oil getting into the cylinder is to check the spark plug. On a four-stroke mower, the spark plug should never be oily. Another common sign of oil getting to where it shouldn’t be and burning off is a lawn mower blowing white or blue smoke.

The most common reason for oil in the cylinder listed above is probably tilting your lawn mower the wrong way. Easily avoidable, very silly, but easy to do. I’ve been known to put gas in the mower oil tank when not paying attention, so I feel your pain! Following that is adding too much oil. Like two-stroke mowers, too much oil, or oil mixing with gas can leave your mower with extra oil in the cylinder. If neither of those is the case, you might be looking at a number of more complicated mechanical issues including bad gaskets or seals in your engine.

How to Get Oil Out of Lawn Mower Engine Cylinders? (5 Ideas)

Well, you have too much oil in the cylinder of your lawn mower and you need to get it out of there. Let’s talk about some of the best ways to do so and when each approach should be used.

Let it Sit

In many cases with four-stroke engines, just letting your lawn mower sit could be your best bet. Gravity can do most of the work for you and the oil should seep back into the crankcase where it should be. This is the best approach to start with. But if you let the mower sit for a few hours and the oil is still there, you’ll want to try one of these other methods too. In either case, you should consider how the oil got there in the first place and try to remedy the problem so that it won’t happen again.

Wipe it Out

Accessing the cylinder from your spark plug well can be a good way to clean up any sitting oil. Since you don’t have a ton of room to work with, you’ll probably want to use a paper towel and a thin object like a marker. Just be sure you don’t use anything that could scratch up the inside of the cylinder. Then, wrap the paper towel around the object in a thin cylinder and insert it into the well. Push it around a little bit before removing it and repeat as necessary until most of the oil is soaked up. You can do this on two or four-stroke mowers.

Burn it Off

Believe it or not, starting your lawn mower up, wheeling it outside, and letting it billow smoke can be a good solution. However, you should only do this in a couple of scenarios. The first would be after letting your mower sit for a while to drain off most of the oil. You could also use this method if there is only a small amount of oil in your cylinder to begin with. This could be the case if you have a small amount of a rich fuel mixture left in your two-stroke mower, or if you’ve just changed the oil or corrected the oil level in your four-stroke mower. Burning off oil here and there won’t damage the engine immediately, you just don’t want to run extra oil in your mower consistently.

Grab a Turkey Baster

This might seem a little strange, but using a kitchen baster can work well to draw oil out of a cylinder. The idea here is pretty self-explanatory, simply follow the same process as you would when wiping out the cylinder. One thing to note is that you may need to attach a bit of thin plastic tubing to the end of the baster to reach down far enough to get at the sitting oil. After you’ve sucked out what you can, running the engine to burn the rest off may work well.

Tip the Mower

If nothing else works, tipping the mower over with the help of a friend could do the trick. Just be sure you do it the correct way. You will want to make sure that the spark plug well is facing down because that’s where the oil will drain from. Also, either make sure the air filter is facing up or remove the air filter before tilting the mower. If you don’t do this you’ll end up having to replace it because it will probably get covered in oil.

About Tom Greene

I’ve always had a keen interest in lawn care as long as I can remember. Friends used to call me the lawn mower guru (hence the site name), but I’m anything but. I just enjoy cutting my lawn and spending time outdoors. I also love the well-deserved doughnuts and coffee afterward!

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Lawn mower oil flush

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MFD1

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With the engine turned off, check to see that the oil level is within specification. Add the entire bottle of Motor Flush to your cold engine before changing oil or oil filter. Engines with oil capacities of 10 quarts or more may require a second bottle of Motor Flush.

Turn on the engine and idle for 5 minutes, DO NOT rev the engine or drive the vehicle. Motor Flush will clean out dirt, sludge, and contaminants from your engine. 5 minutes is all you need for an effective cleaning.

With the engine turned off, drain the engine oil. Give the oil a few additional minutes to fully drain from the engine. Add new oil and replace the oil filter as part of a full service. Use MOTOR MEDIC Motor Flush with every oil change to keep your engine running cleaner and longer.

FAQS

Q: What is Motor Flush? A: Motor Flush is a proprietary blend of solvents and detergents in a petroleum carrier fluid that delivers optimal cleaning power to your engine’s internal parts.

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Q: Why do I need Motor Flush? A: Motor Flush is needed to clean out the built up dirt, deposits, and contaminants that can accumulate even with steady oil changes; periodic cleaning will extend the life of your engine. Cleaning will remove sludge that can block oil flow and cause engine damage.

Q: My high end synthetic oil has all of the cleaning and detergent additives I’ll ever need, why do I still need Motor Flush? A: While high end synthetic oils do a much better job of cleaning the engine over conventional oils, there are many factors that exist such as driving conditions, short trips, severe duty, weather extremes, mechanical abuse, and lack of maintenance intervals which can break down even the most robust synthetic oils, Motor Flush is the final stand in overall engine cleaning.

Q: Can I drive with Motor Flush in my engine? A: No. Motor Flush is only to be used right before an oil change with the engine at idle. Never drive a vehicle until the old oil with Motor Flush is fully drained and new oil is added.

Q: Can I leave it in over 5 minutes? A: No. Due to the strength and effectiveness of the formula, longer application times (exceeding 5 minutes) could lead to engine damage.

Q: Is it safe for diesel engines? A: Yes. While MF3 is safe for diesel engines, we recommend using MOTOR MEDIC Synthetic Motor Flush (MFD1) for diesel applications. MFD1 contains friction modifiers and extreme pressure and anti-wear additives designed to offer increased protection to all diesel engines and gasoline engines with oil-cooled turbochargers.

Q: What is the difference between Motor Flush and Synthetic Motor Flush? A: Synthetic Motor Flush contains added extreme pressure and anti-wear additives that provide added lubrication as the engine is being cleaned. Leftover additives will provide an extra layer of protection to the engine as new oil is circulating. Synthetic Motor Flush is recommended for all diesel and turbocharged engines.

Q: Can I add this to any other system in my vehicle? A: No. Motor Flush is designed only for your engine’s oil system, it cannot be used in any other system. Add it only to the crankcase immediately preceding an oil change. Always follow label directions to give optimum cleanings.

Q: How much Motor Flush do I need to add to my engine? A: Motor Flush is most effective when used with up to 6-7 quarts of oil in the crankcase. Engines with higher oil fill capacities may require an additional treatment size for desired results.

Q: Is Motor Flush safe with any type of engine oil? A: Yes. Motor Flush will work with all conventional, synthetic blend, and full synthetic engine oils.

Q: What sets Motor Flush apart from products such as Seafoam® and Marvel Mystery Oil®? A: Those popular competitors are a blend of alcohols or light solvents designed for continuous crankcase cleaning over the span of a few thousand miles, Motor Flush is a much stronger blend of solvents designed for instantaneous cleaning 5 minutes before an oil change. The Motor Flush formula is designed to go right to work on harmful deposits, sludge, and varnish to deliver a nearly instant result, where Seafoam® and Marvel Mystery Oil® will take over 1,000 miles to show the same results.

Q: Does Motor Flush work well with high mileage engines? A: Yes. Motor Flush works well with higher mileage engines that may have added sludge and varnish deposits. Extra care may be needed for high mileage engines with excessive sludge and contaminants. Always follow label directions to give optimum cleanings.

Q: Can I use Motor Flush on my motorcycle? A: We do not recommend Motor Flush for use in motorcycles that share fluid between the primary (transmission, clutch pack) and the engine oil.

Lawn Mower Oil Type

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The Down ‘n Dirty on Oil For Your Push Lawn Mower

Your mower puts in long hours in one of the dirtiest, dustiest environments imaginable. And like any other internal combustion engine, it relies on engine oil in the crankcase to keep everything lubricated.

While it’s easy to forget about the oil that’s in your mower, it’s not a good idea. All of its dirt and contaminants can cause a buildup of sludge and carbon on bearings and other parts and will wear down your engine. You don’t neglect oil changes in your car for that very reason; why do so in your mower?

What’s the Best Motor Oil For Your Mower?

The good news is, you don’t need a special oil for your lawn mover—ordinary automotive engine oil will do. (NOTE: This does not apply to weed-whackers or other lawn care equipment that use a two-cycle engine and needs an oil/gas mixture. They should only be used with a specially-formulated two-cycle oil.)

For most applications, straight 30W or a multi-grade engine oil such as 10W-30 will work just fine. If you are in an extremely cold area, you might consider a thinner viscosity multi-grade motor oil such as 5W-30. A thinner oil can circulate through the engine more quickly in cold weather, whereas thicker oil might become more viscous in extreme cold.

Just make sure the oil you choose is of good quality with an SF, SG, SH, or SJ rating and that it’s a detergent engine oil. There’s no need to use any kind of additives—straight oil will be fine.

Can I Use Synthetic Oil In a Mower Engine?

The answer to that one is an unequivocal yes. A small engine can get all the same benefits from synthetic oil as an automotive engine.

Synthetic oil is more stable across a wide range of temperatures and won’t thin out in extreme heat or thicken in cold weather like conventional oil. It also offers better engine protection all the way around and can go for longer intervals between oil changes.

Still, considering how dirty a mower’s working environment is, it’s a good idea to change the oil at the beginning of the season even if it’s a synthetic.

Changing the Oil in Your Lawn Mower

This is going to be a pretty simple task, since lawn mowers generally don’t have oil filters nor a drain plug. Start the mower and let the engine run for about 60 seconds to circulate any sludge and dirt that might be in the oil (rather than leaving it in the bottom of the crankcase). Tip the mower over on its side and remove the filler plug and dipstick.

Let the oil run out until the crankcase is empty, then refill. Be sure to drain it into an oil-safe drain pan, and don’t let any used oil drain onto the ground. Dispose of the old oil properly.

Most one-cylinder mower engines will require about a quart of oil. Check the oil level with the dipstick, and you’re ready to go with a crankcase full of the correct oil for your mower.

My Garage

Airdrie’s premium independent automotive service centre.

Services that you DON’T need: Crankcase Flushing

When you come in for an oil change, some lube shops; dealerships; and other businesses may try to sell you a crankcase flush. This service may also be called a motor flush, hot oil flush, or engine flush.

What exactly is a crankcase flush? This service involves adding a solvent or strong detergent to your engine oil; running the engine for a little while to let it circulate through; and then changing the engine oil and filter. These chemicals are supposed to break up and clean out the gunk, varnish and build-up that can form inside your engine, allowing it to be drained out with the engine oil. While this sounds great in theory, there are four main reasons why these services are a bad idea:

Fact #1: You probably don’t need a crankcase flush.

Even if these services did work – and work safely – your car probably wouldn’t benefit from a crankcase flush. While varnish and sludge can build up in a poorly maintained engine, this normally never happens when your oil changes are performed regularly. Even if your engine has been a little neglected for a while, new oil contains detergents that will safely clean your engine over the coming months and years.

The vast majority of engines on the road are quite clean inside, and will stay that way as long as their maintenance is kept up. Change your oil regularly; use a quality filter; and you’ll be just fine.

Fact #2: Crankcase flushing may void your warranty.

Almost every vehicle manufacturer has released technical service bulletins or other documentation where they recommend against performing crankcase flushes. Not only is the service unnecessary, they say, but it can also damage your engine. If your vehicle is under warranty and you experience an engine failure, the servicing dealership will likely ask you to produce your maintenance records. If your maintenance receipts include a record of performing a crankcase flush, some manufacturers will deny the warranty claim.

Here’s an excerpt from a General Motors service bulletin about this:

Fact #3: Crankcase flushing can damage your engine.

As General Motors alludes to in the publication above, engine flushes can damage your engine. The chemicals in flushing additives can damage engine seals, leading to expensive repairs in the event of an oil leak. These chemicals can also damage engine bearings; turbochargers and other oil-lubricated components.

Most engine flushing chemical manufacturers claim their products are “safe” but the reality is that these companies aren’t providing your powertrain warranty; your car manufacturer is. When most car manufacturers say crankcase flushes are a bad idea, it’s best to follow their recommendations. Here is part of a service bulletin from Mazda, who also recommends against engine flushes:

Fact #4: Crankcase flushes are a waste of money.

If most vehicles on the road don’t need a crankcase flush, why do so many businesses sell them? Because they’re an easy money-maker; that’s why. Customers are paying 40 dollars or more for the “service” of pouring a 5 bottle of chemicals into their oil, and then idling their engine for ten minutes.

At My Garage, we are major proponents of maintaining your vehicle properly. We recognize that the cost of maintaining safe, reliable transportation isn’t cheap. That’s why we will continue to advocate against money-wasting and unnecessary services like crankcase flushes, and make sure our clients’ investment is always directed towards services they actually need. Have any questions? Please feel free to call or message us at any time!

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