Lawn mowers getting stuck. 9 Fixes For When Your Lawn Mower Won’t Start

There are a number of reasons, mechanical and otherwise, why a mower won’t run. The good news is that fixing most all of the issues is easy enough for a DIYer to handle.

By Tony Carrick and Manasa Reddigari | Updated Aug 8, 2022 4:03 PM

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Lawn care can be tedious, but once the grass starts growing in the spring, mowing becomes a fact of life in most neighborhoods. When you finally muster the strength to tackle that first cut of the season, there are few sounds as disheartening as that of a lawn mower engine that turns over but doesn’t start.

Before you drag the mower in for repairs or invest in costly replacement parts, first make sure that a clogged air filter, soiled spark plug, damaged safety cable, clogged mowing deck, or contaminated gas isn’t to blame. Work through the following steps, and you may be able to get your puttering grass guzzler up and running again in no time.

A lawn mower repair professional can help. Get free, no-commitment repair estimates from pros near you.

Change the lawn mower carburetor filter.

Your lawn mower’s air filter guards the carburetor and engine from debris like grass clippings and dirt. When the air filter becomes clogged or too dirty, it can prevent the engine from starting. To keep this from happening, replace paper filters—or clean or replace foam filters—after every 25 hours of engine use.

The process for removing the filter depends on whether you are operating a riding or walk-behind lawn mower. For a riding mower, turn off the engine and engage the parking brake; for a walk-behind mower, pull the spark plug wire from the plug. Then, lift the filter from its housing.

The only choice for paper filters is replacement. If you’re cleaning a foam filter, wash it in a solution of hot water and detergent to loosen grime. Allow it to dry completely, and then wipe fresh motor oil over the filter, replace it in its housing, and power up the mower—this time to the pleasant whirring of an engine in tip-top condition.

Check the spark plug.

Is your lawn mower still being stubborn? The culprit may be the spark plug, which is responsible for creating the spark that ignites the fuel in the engine. If it’s loosened, disconnected, or coated in water or carbon residue, the spark plug may be the cause of your machine’s malfunction.

Locate the spark plug, often found on the front of the mower, and disconnect the spark plug wire, revealing the plug beneath. Use a socket wrench to unscrew the spark plug and remove it.

Check the electrode and insulator. If you see buildup, spray brake cleaner onto the plug, and let it soak for several minutes before wiping it with a clean cloth. Reinstall the spark plug, first by hand, and then with a socket wrench for a final tightening. If the problem persists, consider changing the spark plug.

Clear the mower deck of debris.

The mower’s deck prevents grass clippings from showering into the air like confetti, but it also creates a place for them to collect. Grass clippings can clog the mower deck, especially while mowing a wet lawn, preventing the blade from turning.

If the starter rope seems stuck or is difficult to pull, then it’s probably due to a clogged deck. With the mower safely turned off, tip it over onto its side and examine the underbelly. If there are large clumps of cut grass caught between the blade and deck, use a trowel to scrape these clippings free. When the deck is clean again, set the mower back on its feet and start it up.

Clear the vent in the lawn mower fuel cap.

The mower started just fine, you’ve made the first few passes, then all of a sudden the mower quits. You pull the cord a few times, but the engine just sputters and dies. What’s happening? It could have something to do with the fuel cap. Most mowers have a vented fuel cap. This vent is intended to release pressure, allowing fuel to flow from the tank to the carburetor. Without the vent, the gas fumes inside the tank begin to build up, creating a vacuum that eventually becomes so strong that it stops the flow of fuel.

To find out if this is the problem, remove the gas cap to break the vacuum, then reattach it. The mower should start right up. But if the lawn mower won’t stay running and cuts off again after 10 minutes or so, you’ll need to get a new gas cap.

Clean and refill the lawn mower fuel tank.

An obvious—and often overlooked—reason your mower may not be starting is that the tank is empty or contains gas that is either old or contaminated with excess moisture and dirt. If your gas is more than a month old, use an oil siphon pump to drain it from the tank.

(It’s important to be careful as spilled oil can cause smoking, but there are other reasons this might happen. Read more about what to do when your lawn mower is smoking.)

Add fuel stabilizer to the tank.

Fill the tank with fresh fuel and a fuel stabilizer to extend the life of the gas and prevent future buildup. A clogged fuel filter is another possible reason for a lawn mower not to start. When the filter is clogged, the engine can’t access the gas that makes the system go. If your mower has a fuel filter (not all do), check to make sure it’s functioning properly.

First, remove the fuel line at the carburetor. Gas should flow out. If it doesn’t, confirm that the fuel shutoff valve isn’t accidentally closed. Then remove the fuel line that’s ahead of the fuel filter inlet. If gas runs out freely, there’s a problem with the fuel filter. Consult your owner’s manual for instructions on replacing the filter and reassembling the mower.

Inspect the safety release mechanism cable.

Your lawn mower’s reluctance to start may have nothing to do with the engine at all but rather with one of the mower’s safety features: the dead man’s control. This colorfully named safety bar must be held in place by the operator for the engine to start or run. When the bar is released, the engine stops. While this mechanism cuts down on the likelihood of horrific lawn mower accidents, it also can be the reason the mower won’t start.

The safety bar of a dead man’s control is attached to a metal cable that connects to the engine’s ignition coil, which is responsible for sending current to the spark plug. If your lawn mower’s engine won’t start, check to see if that cable is damaged or broken. If it is, you’ll need to replace it before the mower will start.

Fortunately, replacing a broken control cable is an easy job. You may, however, have to wait a few days to get the part. Jot down the serial number of your lawn mower, then head to the manufacturer’s website to order a new cable.

Check to see if the flywheel brake is fully engaged.

The flywheel helps to make the engine work smoothly through inertia. When it isn’t working properly, it will prevent the mower’s engine from working.

If it is fully engaged, it can make a mower’s pull cord hard to pull. Check the brake pad to see if it makes full contact with the flywheel and that there isn’t anything jamming the blade so the control lever can move freely.

If the flywheel brake’s key sheared, the mower may have run over something that got tangled in the blade. It is possible to replace a flywheel key, but it does require taking apart the mower.

Look out for signs that the mower needs professional repairs.

While repairing lawn mowers can be a DIY job, there are times when it can be best to ask a professional to help repair a lawn mower. If you’ve done all of the proper mower maintenance that is recommended by the manufacturer, and gone through all of the possible ways to fix the mower from the steps above, then it may be best to call a pro. Here are a few signs that indicate when a pro’s help is a good idea.

• You see black smoke. The engine will benefit from a technician’s evaluation, as it could be cracked or something else might be worn out.
• Excessive oil or gas usage. If you’ve changed the spark plugs, and done all of the other maintenance tasks, and the mower is consuming more than its usual amount of oil or gas, consult a professional for an evaluation.
• The lawn mower is making a knocking sound. When a lawn mower starts making a knocking sound, something could be bent or out of alignment. It may be tough to figure this out on your own, so a pro could help.
• A vibrating or shaking lawn mower can be a sign of a problem beyond a DIY fix. Usually something is loose or not aligning properly.

How to Fix John Deere Mower Deck Stuck In Up Position

Occasionally, your John Deere mower deck might get stuck in the up position in the middle of the job.

But do you know why the mower deck gets stuck and how to fix it?

The most common reasons are:

• Internally jammed mower deck.
• Damaged, broken, or worn-out Lift Cable.
• Corrosion or wear on Deck.
• Faulty deck Lift or released Pedal.

Besides that, there are various other potential causes behind John Deere’s mower deck getting stuck up position. Continue reading to find out more about the many reasons for this problem and how to solve them_

Why Is My John Deere Mower Deck Stuck In Up Position?

Check out the 6 other common causes that will likely stick your John Deere mower deck in the up position_

• Seized-up Lifting Pistons.
• The latch is not engaged.
• Damaged or dull mower Blades.
• Worn-out Hydraulic system.
• Faulty deck Height Adjustment Lever.
• External objects tend to block the deck’s internal movement.

Fix Your John Deere Mower Deck Stuck In Up Position with 9 Steps:

The best approach is to inspect each potential area first and perform the required service_

Internally Jammed Mower Deck

This problem commonly occurs when the deck gets internally jammed up.

But to confirm it, inspect the underneath of your mower and the above area of the mower deck first.

If you find no internal component is damaged, loose, or bent, your John Deere mower deck is jammed.

What to Do:

The only way out is to clear the deck, which can be done in two ways:

• You can apply additional weight by putting one foot on your mower deck and see if it drops. Repeat the process several times when moving from one half of the deck to another.Make sure to put pressure downward repeatedly to force the deck to drop down.
• Locate the exact area where the deck internally got jammed. Use a pry tool to untangle the pinch until the jam is clear.

Damaged, broken, or worn-out Lift Cable

The lift cable on a John Deere mower deck connects the deck to the mower engine.

But a broken or damaged cable drives the deck stuck in an up position and prevents it from going down.

What to Do:

Remove your mower’s seat and under seat bolts first.

Take off the shackle to check the current state of the lift cable to verify whether the cable is damaged or in good shape.

If the lift cable looks bad, replace the lift cable with a new one.

Then, put everything back together securely.

Corrosion or wear on the Deck

Corrosion or wear issues on any mower deck can prevent proper alignment and movement.

The deck may someday get stuck while operating because it’s rusted or worn out.

What to Do

The easiest solution is to check the state of your mower deck and if it has really worn out, replace the deck.

If you do not wish to replace the deck, this detailed step-by-step repairing tutorial might be resourceful for you:

Maintaining a beautiful lawn can be a daunting task, especially if you lack the appropriate know-how and tools to handle the challenges that may crop up. Fortunately, LawnAsk is here to offer you an all-encompassing resource that covers everything you need to know about lawn care.

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Lawn Mower Blade Bolt Stuck – Mechanics secret tips

I know the feeling, FRUSTRATION. but we’ll get it figured out. The blade bolt can be stuck for a few different reasons. Usually, it’s a combination of rust and over-tightening.

The easiest way to remove a stuck blade bolt is with an impact tool; they make the whole job look easy. Other options include:

You may not have an impact, so I’ll show you a few different options. Some of these options may not suit you; it’ll depend on what tools you have available. Best to don a pair of work gloves. Stuck bolts usually mean slipping tools.

Removing A Rounded Bolt

Over-tightening is common. Mower blades are designed to be tightened to a specific torque, which isn’t as tight as you might expect. That’s because they’re designed to slip if they hit a solid object. The slipping protects the engine from serious damage associated with a curbstone strike.

Also common is turning the bolt the wrong way; hey, it could happen to a bishop. All single-blade walk-behind mowers will have what’s known as a right-hand thread. That means, to loosen the bolt, you turn it to the left. (counter-clockwise)

I cover all you need to know pretty well in this post, but if you need more help, check out the following videos:

Blade Bolt Torque

Mower blade bolts should be torqued to spec. These bolts are usually over-tightened, and when you add corrosion, removing them can be a headache.

Only some large twin blades walk-behind mowers and some lawn tractor mowers are likely to have one only left-hand threaded blade bolt; the other bolt will be a regular right-hand thread.

How do you know which is which?

Simple, if the blade is designed to cut turning right (viewed from above), then it will be a right-hand thread; this is the most common type. To loosen a right-hand thread, you turn it to the left.

The same idea applies to twin-blade tractor mowers. However, a left-hand thread is common on some lawn tractor mowers.

So, if the blade cuts grass turning to the right, as before, it’s likely a regular right-hand thread (left to loosen). But it’s not uncommon for a tractor mower to have one of the blades turn to the left when cutting, and that usually means it’s a left-hand thread (check your owner manual) to loosen a left-hand thread, turn it to the right.

L/H – R/H Thread

A r/h thread loosens to the left. This is the most common type of thread. (counterclockwise)

A l/h threaded bolt loosens to the right. (clockwise)

Typical torque specs for blade bolts are anywhere from 35 ft. lbs. to 90 ft. lbs., you’ll need to check the spec of your mower, it’s important to get it right.

Most of the time blade bolts just get buttoned uptight and aren’t torqued to spec, and that’s OK, but you run the risk of bending the crankshaft if you hit a solid object. I advise using a torque wrench, it’s a lot cheaper than a new mower engine.

Torque wrenches are easy to use, they come in inch-pounds for smaller torque specs, but for mowers, you’ll need foot-pounds. A torque wrench from 30 to 100 foot-pounds is about right.

If you don’t have or can’t borrow one, check out this post on my 1/2 drive Teng Torque, it won’t break the bank, it covers 30 to 150 ft. lbs., it’s simple to use, calibrated from the factory, and has a flexible working range.

I get my torque wrenches calibrated every year but it gets a lot of use. If you set your torque wrench to zero after you use it and don’t throw it around, it should stay calibrated for years.

Damage – The bolt on the right has a rounded head, this kind of damage happens when a tool slips on a bolt head, or corrosion deforms it. Getting the bolt out presents a challenge.

A rounded bolt head is a real pain in jacksie. It usually happens when the bolt is old and corrosion has deformed it. Worn or damaged tools will give you the same result.

It can also happen if the wrong size tool is used. An American mower may use imperial size nuts and bolts, I know the more modern kit is metric and some mowers are a mix of both. If your mower is European or Asian it will be metric sizes.

The trouble is you can get an imperial wrench to almost fit a metric bolt, but it’s loose and will slip, which rounds the bolt head. Typical bolt sizes for mower blade bolts are Imperial 1/2″, 5/8″, 3/4″ and Metric sizes 13mm, 14mm, 15mm, 16mm, and 17mm.

Imperial or Metric, be sure your tools are a good fit.

Tools You’ll Need

Impact power tools are designed for this exact job. They cause a hammering action which helps reduce the bolt thread friction and breaks any corrosion loose. So if you have an air or battery impact tool, you going to feel like a superhero when that bolt just walks out.

Basic tools needed assuming you don’t have an impact tool: wire brush, wd40, ratchet sockets, selection of wrenches.

Other tools you’ll need if things don’t go exactly to plan: breaker bar, hammer chisel, butane torch, and if everything goes to crap, a Mig welder. In my workshop, I use an air impact tool, if you haven’t got one or can’t borrow I have other solutions for you.

But the tool I am least likely to be without is an impact tool, it just makes life really easy and saves so much time. The coolest thing about the latest generation impact tools is their mobility, cordless now packs the power of an air tool. Great for around the home and for flat wheel emergency, use it to run the jack-up and take the nuts off.

Although I still use air in the workshop, I bought a 20v Ingersoll Rand cordless for mobile repairs, I know they ain’t cheap but you won’t ever need to buy another.

If you do buy an impact tool, you’ll need to buy impact sockets too. Sure you can use regular sockets, but you run the risk of them shattering. Anyway, you’ll find all these tools on the “Small engine repair tools page”.

Tool Up – Most stuck bolts won’t need all these tools, but some do.

Removing The Bolt

Removing a stuck bolt involves trying different solutions until you ring the bell. In the first attempts, we’ll try the simple stuff and if that doesn’t move it, I have lots more ideas.

Before we start any work on our mower we need to make it safe. Pull the plug wire off and set it away from the plug. Turn your gas off if you have a gas tap, if you don’t know where your gas tap is check out “Gas tap location”.

WD40 is my favorite tool, it solves lots of problems, I also like a product called nut buster, it’s formulated for dissolving rust. Try spraying the bolt liberally above and below the blade, and allow it time to work into the threads.

Disable Mower – For safety, let’s remove the plug wire and turn off the gas.

Turn the mower over with the carburetor side facing up, stops gas leaking on the floor. (see tilting mower over)

Wire Brush to remove any rust. Wd40 Spray front and rear of the bolt and give it some time to soak in.

Impact Tool – By far the preferred way to remove a bolt. An Impact gun hammers the bolt as well as twists it, this loosens the corrosion between the threads.

An impact tool will remove the bolt in seconds and you won’t need to lock the blade. But if the bolt head is rounded, the impact tool is of no use. You’ll need a different solution.

Check out the Amazon link, some of these impact wrench surprised me.

Lock Blade – If you are not using an impact tool we’ll need to use a piece of timber to lock the blade against the body. Longer timber is better than shorter. Cut a length to suit.

Good Fit – Select a socket (6 points preferably) and check the fit. Turn the ratchet left to loosen. Using a breaker bar, or if you don’t have to improvise with your ratchet and some pipe.

Pushing down on the pipe will give you the extra power you need to break it loose. Just be sure the socket is a good fit, and it stays on the bolt head when you’re applying force.

Wrench Leverage – Turn the Wrench left to loosen. If you don’t have a ratchet and breaker bar, try 2 interlocked wrench’s for extra leverage, or use a hammer to shock the bolt.

If it still won’t budge, try tightening it slightly, this often helps, odd I know!

Striking – Try striking two hammers sharply (wear eye protection) while one is placed against the bolt head, this can help break loose any corrosion on the threads. If the head of the bolt is rounded, move on to the next solution.

Rounded Bolt – If your bolt head is rounded, try a vice grip. Get it as tight as you can, and try hitting it to the left sharply with a hammer.

Not all vice grips are the same, for this application you’ll need a flat jawed set. Check out this post on Vice-grips tools.

Chisel – This method is pretty effective, but you’ll need a new bolt, sharp metal working chisel, and a heavy hammer. With the chisel and hammer, take a sideways and downward aim at the bolt, we’re attempting to loosen it by turning it left. This will require good aim, so now’s a good time for those gloves.

Heat – Ordinarily I’ll tell you to get some heat on the bolt, the reason I haven’t introduced it earlier is that it comes with the risk of damaging the crankshaft nylon seal, which would cause the engine to leak oil.

The risk of this is fairly small, once you direct the flame and only use a small amount. We’re not going to redden the bolt, just going to heat it up.

Maybe 2 minutes with a butane torch directed at the bolt. You can now try heat with any combination of the above methods. Heat is very successful at helping move stuck bolts.

Welding – This method will obviously require a welder, when I get a really stubborn bolt with a rounded head, I take a new bolt and weld it to it. This gives me a not-so-pretty but clean bolt head to work with.

This solution has never failed me yet. You’ll need to replace the bolt. Blade bolts have a fine thread, they are a specialized bolt, getting one in the hardware store isn’t advisable.

Torque – Finally, you’ll have to move your timber to lock the blade in the other direction and torque your new bolt to spec.

Check out this post to see why it’s important to torque your blade bolt.

Related Questions

The spindle turns when removing the blades? The easiest way to prevent the blade from turning while loosening the blade bolt is to use a large block of wood to lock the blade against the mowing deck.

Lawnmower blade bolt direction? Turn the mower on its side, carburetor side up, turn the blade bolt to the left (anticlockwise) to loosen.

Hey, I’m John, and I’m a Red Seal Qualified Service Technician with over twenty-five years experience.

I’ve worked on all types of mechanical equipment, from cars to grass machinery, and this site is where I share fluff-free hacks, tips, and insider know-how.

And the best part. it’s free!

Lawn Mower Keep Clogging Up? It’ll Be One Of 6 Issues

When it comes to issues with a lawn mower, there are certain things you can accept as part of the cost of having equipment that gets used all the time and requires maintenance, whether it’s preventive or corrective.

These things can include power issues or blade damage or even problems with the mower starting or stopping while it’s running.

What’s hard to accept is a mower that keeps getting clogged up.

Good news, though. Yes, a mower getting constantly clogged up is annoying but it’s also easy to correct and anticipate in the future.

So, if your mower keeps getting clogged up, it’s probably one of these issues and here are the ways you can address each.

You’re Mowing Wet Grass

Nothing clogs up a mower faster than wet grass. Here’s the thing, though. Mowing wet grass is so very avoidable.

As in, if your grass is wet, don’t mow it. Wait for it to drive and then mow to your heart’s content.

In the meantime, when it’s wet, leave your lawn alone. It’ll save you the frustration of dealing with not only a clogged mower but you’ll also avoid the clean-up that inevitably comes with mowing wet grass.

Lastly, you’ll avoid the possibility of electrical shock if you have an electric mower and possible damage to your mower’s blades, chute, and bag.

You’re Mowing Grass Taller Than You Should at One Time

Wait a second. Isn’t the whole point behind mowing grass is that it’s too tall and needs to be cut?

The main strategy behind mowing your lawn should be to keep it from getting too tall. However, if time and conditions have gotten away from you, yes, your too tall lawn needs to be cut.

That doesn’t mean you’re supposed to cut it down to the appropriate height all at once.

If you cut tall grass too fast, you’re going to be cutting more volume than the mower is designed to handle at a given time. This can result in not only a clogged mower but also potential damage to the mower, overheating, and your mower cutting off before you get too much done.

Instead, mow your tall grass over several days, adjusting the mower height lower each time you do it. This will keep the volume of grass the mower is handling normal while also preventing your mower from clogging up unnecessarily.

Your Grass Catcher Bag Needs Cleaning

One of the parts of your mower that a lot of people don’t think about getting clogged but absolutely can is your mower’s catcher bag.

“How can a bag get clogged?” you might wonder.

Well, part of the way the catcher bag work is allowing air flow through the bag through what is effectively mesh material. If it’s clogged, the air flow will be poor to non-existent, causing clippings to collect in the chute or underneath the mower deck.

So a clogged bag can lead to a clogged chute can lead to a clogged mower deck.

This means it’s time to do some grass bag cleaning. This can be accomplished with forced air (like a leaf blower or pressurized air duster), muscle, or water.

If your grass bag is clogged, take a stiff brush to clean off the old, matted clippings inside. Don’t want to give it the old manual labor-try? Then pull out that leaf blower and blow the bag clear. If you’ve got a power washer, that would work better than any other choice.

A mower deck covered with caked grass may be the beginning of your clogging problems. Think of it as a cascading casualty. A dirty mower deck can lead to damaged and grass-caked blades that can lead to a dirty and clogged chute and bag. Throw in tall or wet grass and you have a perfect recipe for mower clogging in not just one but a handful of areas.

So, your mower deck, along with your catcher bag, chute, and blades, could probably use a good visual inspection and cleaning.

Actually, all of these areas should be cleaned after every use. Maybe not to the level of power washing each time but a good wipe down and sweep never hurts.

Back to the mower deck. As noted, brushing it off, blowing it down, or washing it off is always an option and all of them are worth a look. Also, if you do have caked grass on the deck, that putty knife would be an appropriate tool for scraping all the gunked-up debris.

If you’re lucky to have a mower with a port on the deck for hooking up a hose, even better. Make use of it as it’s an easy way to push water throughout the surface of the mower deck for a quick rinse.

When you’re done cleaning, like the chute, apply a coat of WD-40 or another industrial lubricant to keep the surfaces clear of future debris.

Conclusion

A mower that clogs up all the time is annoying and, if not corrected, can lead to more headaches than they’re worth.

If you try out the recommendations above you should, hopefully, be able to clear up your clogging issue and prevent it from being more than an annoyance down the road.

I’ve been helping homeowners with appliance repair since 2016. Starting out as an enthusiastic amateur, I’ve since worked with many Appliance, HVAC, and DIY experts over the last 7 years. My mission is to help your fix your appliances and systems. saving you money and lowering your energy bills. Visit my author page to learn more! Read more

Hi there! My name’s Craig, and I started Appliance Analysts back in 2017.

My mission is to help our readers solve appliance-related issues without paying through the nose for contractors or a whole new model. I’m joining up with experts from across the HVAC, Appliance Repair, DIY industries to share free expert advice that will save you time, stress, and money.

Small Engine Pull Cord Stuck: Why and What to Do

I have run into issues with the pull cord being stuck on my gas-powered yard tools quite a few times over the years. While this can definitely be an annoyance, it’s a relatively easy fix once you have located the problem. But why does the pull cord get stuck in the first place?

If you find that your pull cord is stuck, there are a few factors that could be causing this. For one, a build-up of grass or debris may need to be removed in order for the pull cord to move again. You may also have an issue with your recoil starter, which could be damaged.

In this article, we’ll be going in-depth into why your small engine pull cord gets stuck, how this happens, and how you can fix it yourself. If you’re interested in learning more about these topics, keep on reading.

Check out the DynaTrap Mosquito Flying Insect Trap – Kills Mosquitoes, Flies, Wasps, Gnats, Other Flying Insects – Protects up to 1/2 Acre (link to Amazon).

Why Does My Pull Cord Get Stuck?

There are a few factors that may be responsible for your pull cord becoming stuck. While this can be an annoyance to those who can’t figure out why their equipment has stopped working, it’s a pretty easy fix once you find the problem.

Below, we’ll go in-depth into some of the reasons your pull cord has become stuck and how you can fix this in just a few easy steps.

Grass and Debris Is in the Way

This is a common problem that many lawn mower owners face, and thankfully it’s a pretty quick fix. Grass and debris can build up over time and can prevent the blade from turning. The blade is connected to the starter coil, so if the blade is unable to move, your pull cord will be stalled as well.

If your pull cord moves slightly, it’s likely that there are grass and debris that needs to be removed from the housing on the top of the motor. You can simply unscrew the top of the housing yourself and have a look around to see if this is the cause of your problem.

Once you’ve successfully removed the housing from your motor, remove the debris safely by using a screwdriver. Examine the areas surrounding the cord and the pulley disc for anything that may be hindering your machinery.

Problem With the Automatic Break

If you’ve examined your equipment for debris and you weren’t able to find anything, try checking the automatic brake. If you feel a lot more resistance when trying to move your pull cord, it’s likely an issue with your brake.

Many different types of lawnmowers have this kind of lever that will automatically stop your engine. In order to get your machine moving again, you’ll have to manually depress this lever and hold it down before pulling your starter cord.

This is another common occurrence that can easily be fixed by just following a few quick steps. If you feel if this is the problem with your pull cord, just simply depress this lever to get your machine up and running again.

Problem With the Recoil Starter

While the slight movement of your pull cord means there is likely debris where there shouldn’t be, no movement at all is a sign of a damaged recoil starter. Your pull cord can sometimes cross over itself when it’s rewinding, causing your cord to become easily stuck.

While your pull cord may be simply tangled, it may also become damaged in the process and may need to be replaced. Upon further inspection of the area, you should be able to tell if you simply need to loosen the tangle or replace anything that’s been broken or displaced along the way.

If you feel as if your pull cord has become tangled, remove the housing of your motor, rewind the rope to inspect if it is tangled or damaged in any way. If it’s tangled, you’ll want to reset the spring, or remove it and install a new one.

In the video below, you can get a visual step by step, looking into how you can successfully fix the issue you’re having with your pull cord when the recoil starter is the main issue:

Thriving Yard aims to simplify the unnecessarily complex process of growing and maintaining a healthy, thriving lawn and garden. Unlike corporate website companies who write articles from an office overlooking a major city, the authors on this website live in small towns and regularly use many of the tips and recommendations provided in their own garden and lawn care. Read