Stihl 180 Shock Absorber Top Replacement

500 fishing tips

© / Robyn Mackenzie, yasonya, Filip Fuxa, Sandra Cunningham, cover, 2013

© Book Club "Family Leisure Club", edition in Russian, 2013

© Book Club "Family Leisure Club", decoration, 2013

© LLC “Book club“ Family leisure club ””, Belgorod, 2013

Recreational fishing is one of the most fascinating and popular types of recreation. In winter and summer, thousands of fishing enthusiasts go to rivers, lakes, ponds and reservoirs, and there is no force that would keep them warm and comfortable.

The hobby of fish AL-KO promotes physical hardening, development of observation and endurance, teaches us to understand the beauty of the world around us.

Fishermen are great connoisseurs of nature: at any time of the year. while fishing and at home. they inquisitively study seasonal rhythms and phenomena that affect not only the behavior of underwater inhabitants, but also the entire environment. After all, the correct understanding of various natural phenomena, their analysis turns fishing into an interesting activity, a multifaceted fascinating sport.

What knowledge and skills should a fisherman have in order for fishing to be successful? It is known that for successful fishing it is necessary to know and be able to choose the right gear, determine the habitat of the fish, as well as the preferred fishing time. The same species of fish is caught differently at different times of the year and even days. In one place today you can catch a fair amount of fish, sufficient for salting, and for triple fish soup, and tomorrow the fish here may not bite at all. Some places on the ponds are catchy, while others are completely unsuitable for fishing.

The fisherman also cannot do without knowledge about the habits of fish, the seasonal change in their behavior, and the effect of weather on fishing. When and on which nozzle should I catch this or that fish? How and what bait to use? How to save caught fish? Anglers will find answers to these and many other questions on the pages of this book. We hope she will become a real helper for both beginners and experienced anglers. The book contains proposals for the independent manufacture of fishing tackle and lures, as well as some secrets that fishermen pass from generation to generation. Many gears are quite simple to manufacture, but nonetheless very effective. Although they say that fishing is not the main thing, you must admit that a good catch is a legitimate reason for the pride of any angler.

It should be remembered that fishing is not a craft, but a kind of art. Therefore, any advice and recommendations should be taken only as guidelines for their creative application in practice.

Stihl 180 Shock Absorber Top Replacement

What are the basic principles of fishing with a fishing rod

Due to its relative simplicity and accessibility, a fishing rod equipped with fishing line, float, sinker and hook is, of course, the most common among anglers.

What should I look for when buying a rod? To begin, we classify float fishing rods for fishing in open water according to the main types.

Fly ("deaf") fishing rod (Fig. 1). the most popular tackle. In amateur fishing, it is still the most popular, and in the world of sports it is replaced by a plug rod and tackle for long casting. A fly fishing rod is a telescopic or plug rod without rings from 1 to 12 m long, to the apex of which a snap is attached a length slightly shorter than the rod. The equipment itself consists of the main fishing line, a float, a load and a leash with a hook.

Fig. 1. Fly ("deaf") fishing rod

The "English" float rod (Fig. 2) is a plug, three- or four-piece fishing rod with a large number of through-rings, a cork or rubber handle and a reel seat mounted on the rod. The length of the rods is from 3.6 to 6 m. Usually they are equipped with floats with one attachment point (sliding or fixed). They are used when fishing at large distances from the coast, when there is no current or it is very weak. Can be used in other conditions. This tackle is resistant to wind and allows you to fish at a distance from the angler to 80 m, which is impossible to do with other gear.

Fig. 2. "English" float fishing rod

The “Bologna” or “Italian” fishing rod (Fig. 3) is a telescopic fishing rod with rings and a reel seat mounted on it. The length of the rods is from 4 to 9 m. It is equipped with a float with two attachment points, usually fixed on the fishing line, but sliding options are also possible. It differs from the previous one in that it allows you to catch both in places with no current, and in places with a weak or medium current. There is a limit on the depth (not more than 4/5 of the length of the rod when using a “deaf” float). Tackle is faster than the previous one. For beginners, it is better to use tackle with a fixed rather than a sliding float.

Fig. 3. “Bologna” float fishing rod (telescope)

A plug rod with a “blind” snap (Fig. 4) is a plug rod with interchangeable telescopic or plug tips of various lengths and rubber shock absorbers installed in them. Length reaches 18 m.

Fig. 4. Shtekerny fishing-rod with "whale" (trailer) and equipment

Most amateur fishers use a rather simplified version of the “Bologna” fishing rod, that is, a telescopic fishing rod with rings and a reel, equipped with either a sliding or “deaf” float with two attachment points.

When choosing rods, you need to pay attention to their main parameters.

"Deaf" (fly-through) rod. Fiberglass, carbon fiber, or a composition thereof is most often used as a material for the rod. The most important thing when buying a fairly inexpensive rod is to ignore the name of the company. Indeed, most of the inscriptions on the rods, as a rule, do not correspond to reality. Similar rods are produced either in China or in Korea. Therefore, there is no fundamental difference in what is written on the rods.

If you decide to purchase a “dead” rod, pay attention to several parameters.

The diameter of the butt (the thickest) knee should be as small as possible. Parameters may vary slightly.

Tip diameter. the smaller the better. And don’t be afraid that the tip will break. The fact is that as the load applied to the end of the rod increases, the point of maximum voltage moves away from the tip and moves to the second, third and so on of the knee. Therefore, no matter how thin the whip, it will not break, and the weight of the rod will decrease. After all, reducing the weight of the rod in the butt by 10 g, you will not notice this, but if you attach the same weight to the tip, you will feel it right away. The thin tip also improves the structure of the rod, making it softer in the upper part, which contributes both to casting light rigs and to mitigate jerking fish when fishing. Ideal is a diameter of about 1 mm or less.

It is almost always advisable to choose rods with a minimum number of knees (or with a maximum length of knees). Here you “save” at the joints (fewer knees. fewer joints), which increase the total mass of the rod and spoil the system.

The presence of reinforcing fibers can be ignored, since in most cases they are decorative, made just from threads, and in the case of winding carbon fiber. they protect the rod from impacts. Reinforcing fibers may look like a rare (with a step of about 1 cm) cross winding with a filamentary flagellum under a varnish layer or as a more frequent winding with a wide (from 3 to 10 mm) ribbon. As a rule, the winding can be felt by sliding a finger over the surface of the rod.

It is not bad if an additional bandage is installed on the knees at the joints (thickening by 0.2-0.4 mm, length about 5-7 mm), which prevents splitting of the knee at the time of maximum load (more often. at the time of casting). The fact is that after one or two years of use, the joints of any, even a very good fishing rod are erased. And if earlier the length of the contact zone was 15 cm, then it can decrease to 4-6 cm, and this can lead to breakage of the outer knee at the junction. The joints of the knees are not erased indefinitely, but stop at a certain stage, that is, when the varnish coating and a small top layer of filler extruded over the surface of the fabric are erased. Here the bandage can play a positive role.

"English" rod. Today, such rods are only carbon fiber. The main sizes of the "English" rods. 3.6 m; 3.9 m; 4.2 m; 4,5 m.

When buying, you should pay special attention to the flow rings. A ring consists of two or (less commonly) three components: frames, inserts, and sometimes gaskets between them. The frame is made of steel (sometimes titanium. to facilitate the ring). Various materials are used for the inserts: cermet coated with titanium nitride ("gold cermet"), silicon carbide ("silicon carbide"), aluminum oxide and porcelain.

Video: Stihl 180 Shock Absorber Top Replacement

Shock-absorbing pads are used if the material of the inserts is brittle (porcelain), or specially so that the ring better withstands loads. There is no fundamental difference between the materials of the rings. The main thing is that they are light, cumbersome, with the thinnest frame and insert.

Important for fishing is the number and shape of the rings. The more rings on the rod, the better, as a rule. Firstly, the load is distributed more evenly, and secondly, the forest does not stick to the rod in wet (rainy) weather. Adhesive to the fishing rod of the forest will not make it possible to abandon light and even medium in weight equipment. Rings should stand on long legs (which prevents scaffolds from sticking). also an important aspect that should be paid attention to when buying (Fig. 5).

Fig. 5. Rings for rods: a. throughputs; b. “tulip”

Many are confused by the inner diameter of the rings. it is very small. Indeed, if it were possible to put rings of a larger diameter on the rod, then the casting would be further. But here we are again faced with the problem of overloading the rod, because the larger the ring, the heavier it is. In fact, the small diameter of the ring, although it reduces the casting distance (increasing the friction of the scaffolds against the ring), but it facilitates the rod, thereby increasing the speed of the equipment at the initial moment of departure. Therefore, the casting is quite acceptable. Plus, the use of thin lines. On such rods almost never used forests thicker than 0.18 mm, and such fishing line glides perfectly even through such small rings. The small diameter of the end rings is also an indicator of a quality rod.

Now about the handle and reel seat (Fig. 6). As materials for the manufacture of the handle use cork or rubber. there is no fundamental difference in this. Cork is considered more prestigious, but it does not give any practical advantages. Decent rods can have a compound handle. Most often, these are fishing rods of large wholesale and trading companies that have recently emerged in the fishing tackle market. Such companies are trying to reduce the price of gear as much as possible, while maintaining its basic qualities. Hence the compound handles: bottom. cork, top. rubber, or vice versa (Fig. 6, a).

There are three types of reel seat: classic (fig. 6, b, d), front screw (fig. 6, c) and “sliding rings” (fig. 6, e). The first two, although somewhat heavier than the third, are more reliable. But one should not think that the “slip ring” reel seat is not reliable. Many use it even for fishing carp. The main advantage that the ring reel seat gives is not less weight, but the ability to install it “by hand”, that is, in a place where it will be more convenient.

Fig. 6. Rod handles: a. composite handle made of cork and rubber; b. handle with a classic reel seat; c. a handle with a front screw reel seat; g. handle with a classic reel seat; d. handle with reel seat "sliding rings"

The “Bologna” tackle (telescopic rod with rings), in comparison with the “English” one, allows fishing with a “deaf” float at a greater depth, since it has a large rod length.

The classic “Bologna” rod, long enough in assembled (folded) form, has neither a cork handle nor any other handle attached to the butt (usually just a rough deposition), but it has a metal reel seat (not a screw, but just a plate attached to fishing rod at two or three points on small legs and having a hard front and moving back stop). The length of the rod is from 4 to 9 m (usually 5–7 m).

The rings on the “Bologna” rods are installed one on each knee, plus one or two sliding ones on the penultimate knee, plus one, two or three sliding ones on the top.

The recommendations for the acquisition are practically the same as for the swing rods, because they are very similar: a small diameter of the butt and the whip, long knees. True, the whip is most often not monolithic, but hollow, since the power of such a rod should be greater. Reinforced joints (protective bandage) on such rods are always present, since metal access rings are installed on the upper part of the knee.

What is the difference between the equipment of the flywheel from the plug

Equipment of a fly-fishing rod. The flywheel you just bought is in most cases not yet ready for use. Something else needs to be attached to it in the forest. For this are the so-called fasteners. They come in three or even four types, if you take into account cheap fiberglass rods.

Signature fasteners have a length of about 1.5 cm and can be of various internal diameters, suitable for almost any whip. Clasps are produced with an inner diameter of 0.8 to 2.5 mm with an interval of sizes of 0.1 mm. These figures are a little arbitrary and depend on the manufacturer.

The clasp is mounted on the rod using ordinary "superglue" or any other waterproof glue. The forest is hooked with a special hook on the clasp, on which a protective cove is looming over to prevent spontaneous slipping of the scaffold. This is the most “advanced” option of attaching the scaffold to the rod. it is convenient to use and the scaffold is not deformed, since the fastener is plastic (Fig. 7).

Fig. 7. Attaching fishing line to the fly fishing rod with a plastic clasp

The shock absorber is a peculiar type of fastener. it can be advised to the owners of high-power “glass” rods. It’s not even a fastener as such, but it is also suitable for securing scaffolds on a fishing rod.

In the manufacture of a shock absorber, it is necessary to have a rubber band in a braid from 4 to 10 cm long (hat gum is an alternative). Elastic bands without a braid (for plug rods) will not work here, although

To install a shock absorber, it is necessary to wind one end of an elastic band with a 1 cm overlap to the tip of the rod (Fig. 8). It is better to wind it with kapron threads, previously lubricated with glue or nitro-varnish. It is advisable to cover the winding (after the glue has dried) with waterproof varnish. At the opposite end of the elastic, you need to tie a simple knot and also varnish it. The forest is fastened with the usual “noose”, which holds and does not slide off due to the knot.

Fig. 8. Attaching fishing line with shock absorber

At first glance, this design may seem unreliable, but this is far from the case. The harder they pull behind the forest, the stronger the loop will be tightened, and the gum will stay on the rod due to the tight winding and glue.

A homemade clasp is the least successful option, and it should be used only if the first two options are unavailable (for some reason). It is unsuccessful due to the fact that the forest is in contact with metal, and this deforms the forest.

The design of the clasp is clear from Figure 9. When making such a clasp, you can use a regular ring at the end of some rods. If there is no such ring, then it is easy to make it yourself. The forest is inserted into a ringlet and tucked under a wire. A coil is pushed onto the free end of the wire (you can use a piece of insulation from a wire of suitable diameter. “cambric”).

Fig. 9. Homemade clasp

Recommendations for the operation of flywheel rods. Damage to the rod can occur for two reasons: due to the manufacturer’s marriage or as a result of careless handling of the fisherman. For the rod to last a long time, you need to adhere to the following recommendations.

When storing the rods, the following rules must be observed.

It is necessary to adhere to certain rules for assembling a telescopic rod. In a standard situation, the knee is collected with a light rotational-translational motion. But if the knees are stuck, in no case do not have to apply too much rotation effort. increase the force in the forward direction. If this does not help, try the following.

1. Collect all the knees. Remove all knees from the rod that are thinner than the jammed one (only for non-rod rods). Grasp the upper (thin) stuck knee, slightly raise it (the rod should be vertical) and sharply lower it with force. The lower knee will hit the cork on the butt. and the knee will fold.

2. If the first option didn’t help, lift the knee somewhere to a height of 40-50 cm and throw it with force. Repeat this with an increase in throwing power. These two options can be performed if your rod has a rubber seal on the bottom plug.

3. If there is no rubber pad, you will have to carry the rod in disassembled condition. To disassemble the rod, you will need two pieces of dense rubber with a thickness of more than 1 cm. Put one piece against the wall, press the stuck knee into it. Attach the second piece of rubber to the butt of the second knee and strike the rubber with a hammer (preferably with a mallet). Make sure that the rod is strictly perpendicular to the plane of the wall (Fig. 10).

Fig. 10. Disassembling stuck rod knees at home

4. Repeat the same steps, dropping a little kerosene into the stuck joint. First of all, try to drip kerosene (or another solvent) on the butt of the thickest knee for checking the varnish erosion.

5. Repeat the blows after heating the joint slightly over the gas (electric) stove. When heating, keep your hand at the rod level to control the temperature. The palm should feel warm, but not very strong (so that they can tolerate).

Flywheel repair. About 90% of rod failures can be repaired, and 50% of them can be easily repaired at home.

For repair, you may need the following tools and materials (depending on the type of breakdown): epoxy resin (preferably three-component), fiberglass, carbon fiber or carbon fiber, Kevlar flagellum, old film strip, old knee rods, file, sandpaper, adhesive tape, paraffin candle, waterproof varnish (black or colorless), brush. Some hard-to-reach materials can be replaced. For example, a Kevlar flagellum, which is extremely rare, can be replaced with a flat nylon thread. The flagellum itself looks like a flat rope with a width of 2-5 mm dark red, brown or black. If there is no carbon fabric or carbon fiber, you can do with fiberglass.

The principle of eliminating any breakdown is simple. A segment from the old rod (it will be a repair sleeve) is set into the broken knee so that the sleeve is 2-10 cm longer than the breakage site. That is, the sleeve is inserted into each part of the broken knee 1.5–2 times larger than the longest crack in the knee.

With sandpaper, grind the repair sleeve from the old knee so that it fits tightly, with effort. Be sure to remove all old protective varnish from the sleeve until only the base (glass- or carbon fabric) remains. Before final installation in the place of failure, it should be greased with epoxy.

Then, fiberglass (carbon cloth) is cut into a canvas 5–7 cm wide longer than the length of the fracture site and 1.5–2 times longer than the length of the circumference of the knee at the fracture site. Before cutting, it is advisable to moisten the fabric a little in epoxy and allow to dry. this will cut much easier: the fabric will not “sprinkle”.

A little epoxy is poured into a flat container (saucer) and fiberglass (carbon fabric) is placed there, moistened with it. Next, wetted glass cloth is wound around the breakage site. The length of the strip of fiberglass will allow you to wind 1.5–2 turns. Now you need to squeeze out the excess epoxy. To do this, you need a film strip (you can take a film from video cassettes, although it is not so strong). The end of the film is fixed with tape and begin to wrap it tightly around the breakage site with a slight overlap. Wrap should be shiny (varnished) side inward. After winding, fix the second end of the film with tape. Carefully remove excess (film-squeezed) epoxy. Leave the product to dry. Most epoxy resins.

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