Drill bit for cutting sheet metal

Drill attachments for metal cutting, drill sharpening, grinding and polishing

Performing construction or repair work, it often becomes necessary to cut the metal workpiece. To do this, use special equipment in the form of a cutter, angle grinder or hand scissors for metal. But they are not always readily available. The metal-cutting bit is the right tool for the job. it cuts through thicker material than a regular drill.

Thanks to the large selection of different nozzles on the drill, this versatile device can replace many other tools

Variety of drill bits

Many craftsmen are accustomed to use the drill for its direct purpose, namely for drilling holes. But not everyone knows that this tool can be turned into a multifunctional device, supplementing it with special attachments, accessories and stands that will make the drill universal and indispensable in any work.

Devices and attachments for drilling at an angle will make it possible to make a hole where a conventional drill cannot be approached

With the help of special accessories for the drill, which you can buy at any specialized store at an affordable price, you can drill holes of all kinds of diameters, cutting, grinding, polishing, screwing, mixing and milling. There are also drill pump attachments for pumping liquids. The chicken plucking attachment is indispensable in the home. With the correct and competent application of additional attachments, the result will not be of worse quality, as well as when using a special single-purpose device, but the cost of such a universal tool will be many times lower.

According to their purpose, all existing nozzles are divided into:

• drilling jigs and core bits;
• Nozzles, scissors for cutting metal;
• stops;
• angle attachments;
• Grinding and polishing nozzles;
• jigs for milling wood and metal;
• sharpening tools;
• feathering attachments.

The pumping attachment for your drill is used to pump and drain liquids, such as rain barrels and children’s pools

When working with any attachment on the drill, it is necessary to follow the safety rules:

• The tooling must be securely clamped in the chuck of the tool;
• the drill must be held with both hands, which is especially important for powerful models;
• constantly adjust the pressure of the tool;
• work in personal protective equipment;
• After completing the work for a few minutes should not touch the drill to avoid burns.

Drill bit for cutting metal. Die-cutting shears YT-160A.

Hello all! Tool manufacturers are increasingly making various additions to power tools, thus expanding their functionality. So, for example, today you can easily convert a chainsaw into an angle grinder (angle grinder), an angle grinder into a drill, and a drill into scissors. It is about the latter, and we will talk about it below. Naturally, such “improved” tool is inferior to the original one in ergonomics, maybe in performance, well, in general in usability. And most likely focused not for professional, but for domestic use. Because it’s much cheaper to buy an add-on (module) to an existing drill than to buy a separate tool to perform a specific function. Be that as it may, there will always be fans and opponents of such an upgrade. I first thought about buying the device. this summer. It was necessary to cut 250 m2 of metal tiles with a thickness of 0.5 mm, for a four pitched roof with skylights (who knows. knows that the cut is decent), and since manufacturers are prohibited to cut steel tile grinder with a grinding wheel, there is a choice between electric scissors and conventional hand scissors (type “pelicanes”). Browsing ads for electric scissors, I was attracted to the nozzles on the drill similar to sabzha. I have to confess that I did not buy it at that time because of the lack of real feedback from the masters, and I somehow do not trust commercials. Rejecting the idea of buying expensive tools, I bought a quality hand scissors. the good thing is that there was a guy in the crew with strong hands and empty head, which actually determined his role in the work). And so half a year later I got this device for review. It is possible that many readers will be confused by this fact, but it can not change. I apologize for wasting time on such a long introduction. For those who are still interested. I will try to be as objective and informative to describe my impressions of the device and its work. Let’s go! The hero of the review is packed into a blister: cardboard on one side shows examples of use on the other a description of the device and an instruction manual. Included with the tool, there is also a universal wrench (“male” 12mm and 4mm. Allen key) for disassembly and assembly of the device. The manufacturer specified the following tool characteristics: maximum thickness of material that can be cut is steel of usual quality.1.8 mm stainless steel. 1.2mm copper, aluminum. 2mm plywood, plastic. 2mm Cutting speed. 2m/min at 3000 rpm. The minimum cutting radius is not specified. No specific drill recommendations, apart from speed (3000 rpm). General view of the tool The working part consists of a matrix and a movable punch driven by an eccentric mechanism. By the way it is not exactly a scissors, because the working elements cut the material forming a chip and the cut is of a certain width (4mm), which is in conflict with the classical understanding of scissors. as seen in the photo, the punch (die) has a ledge, and it is this ledge that is the cutting part. Material is “bitten” between the punch and die and then milled. I think the principle will become clearer after watching the clip:

As you can see there are two working parts. After working off the resource of one of them, we simply twist the handle to the other side. There is a thread at the base of the die for that. The thread is surprisingly standard metric 16×1.25mm. The nut for it can be found in any hardware store, I found 3 of them in my garage. It means that if you suddenly need to fix a sub, or make some kind of device for it, it won’t be a problem. I want to mention here the removable handle. it looks fragile to me. I have not managed to break it yet, but I have experience of using tools with handles of this material, and they crack quite easily if handled carelessly. Going back a little bit. Both dies are fixed on the aluminum housing with hexagonal bolts. They don’t screw in, they just push in. At the bottom they have a groove, and it is in it that the bolt rests. Turning the die around its axis, it can be fixed in any position. the punch here is one, in the housing to which is bolted one part of the eccentric mechanism (which converts the rotational motion of the shaft into translational motion of the punch), the second part is a shaft which has on one end a lug (through which the punch is driven), and on the other shank in the form of a hexagon 7 mm for connection to the drill. This is what it looks like when disassembled: Let’s move on to direct use. The first thing is to grow a third hand, because with one hand you will be holding the drill and the other hand will be holding the tool itself. That is, you can not hold the material to be treated. But if seriously, it is necessary to understand beforehand and to provide for presence of a vice, the clamps or the partner. I plan to operate the device permanently. Temporarily (for tests), from readily available materials, built this device for mounting on a sheet of OSB thickness of 10 mm drill as recommended 3000 rpm (at least so written) fixed it all on the sheet view from the other side For the tests took a steel strip of 1.5 mm (1.8 unfortunately could not find), aluminum plate. 2 mm, profiled sheeting. 0.45 mm, and some other junk. The work with all of these materials can be seen in the video at the end of the review, but for now I will share general impressions. Surprisingly all of the above materials were easy to cut, and most interestingly the drill loads are minimal even when cutting steel 1.5 mm, probably that’s why, in the manual, and there are no recommendations for the power of the drill used. I decided to try to use a cordless electric screwdriver instead of the drill with idle speed 750 rpm (I do not remember the power, but not more than 300W). It cuts very slowly but with enough power. Be that as it may, but this option generally does not recommend. By experience, determined the minimum cutting radius of about 10 mm. Concerning speed. The specs state a cutting speed of 2m/min. But the depth of the ledge on the punch is 0.5 mm, that is, in one pass is removed 0.5 mm of material, as evidenced by chip measurements. So under ideal conditions, if your drill produces 3,000 rpm (even under a small load, but still a load), then in one minute you can go a maximum of 1.5 meters. Of course in practice this distance will be even less. I measured cutting steel with a thickness of 0.45 mm, as a result got the speed of about 1.3 meters per minute. Very sorry that I was not a piece of metal, as I wanted to test the tool to pass all of her curves, especially since many commercials is for cutting it and positioning. And what is the most interesting at the passage of these very bends (many) there is a mounting in the roller. I decided to perform my tests on an aluminum profile with a wall thickness of 1.2mm thick. On the material of such a thickness, the bends to pass quite difficult, but it is still real (though not beautiful) curves on trapezoidal sheet to go quite easily, but again, with a good fixation of the sheet. I liked very much the cleanliness of the cut, no burrs, no sharp edges even on a sheet of 0.45 mm. In many cases, post-treatment is not necessary if the process does not call for it. Examples of cutting can be seen in the micrometer photo, and add a few more photos below especially feel the difference in comparison with the cut angle grinder abrasive circle (I am aware that it is not recommended to cut abrasive circle on metal. aluminum) and here is the form of shavings is obtained at the output Below outlined the basic dimensions, maybe someone will be useful. And the promised clip:

Features of the use of nozzles on the drill

Nozzles, by means of which an ordinary electric drill turns into a device for metal cutting, are essentially a punch (splint). Making numerous reciprocating motion in the inner cavity of the matrix, this punch punches the metal sheet, forming on it a line for the cutting trimmer, which has a width of 3.1 mm. When using the nozzles in the processing area is a point effect, so that the protective layers on the surface of the metal product is fully preserved all their functions.

By means of the nozzle on a drill it is possible to carry out cutting of metal sheets of the following thickness:

• made of aluminum. up to two millimeters;
• made of copper, brass, sheet iron, zinc and galvanized steel. up to one and a half millimeters;
• stainless steel. up to eight tenths of a millimeter.

The reciprocating motion of the punch, which is the main working body of the nozzle, is communicated through the rotation of the chuck of the electric drill. It should be borne in mind that effectively cut the metal sheet such a nozzle can only if it is used in a set with an electric drill, the chuck which rotates at a frequency of at least 2700 rpm.

Examples of cuts in galvanized sheet (0.55 mm) and aluminum (2 mm)

Advantages of using drill bits

Attachments for the drill, if you compare them to such a popular tool for cutting metal, as an angle grinder, have a number of advantages.

• The quality of the cut is outstanding.
• When using the metal cutting bit on the drill head there is no need to purchase additional consumables, which significantly saves money.
• Using a drill bit like this makes for a great cutting performance.
• Drill bits are highly versatile.
• Cutting with a special handle is very comfortable, thanks to the special handle the tool is equipped with.
• They fit in both electric and pneumatic drills.
• The convenience of these cutter heads in both application and maintenance is undeniable.
• With these tools you can make cuts in almost any configuration.

Although these bits are simple to use, they require a certain amount of skill and dexterity on the part of the user.

Testimonial: Sibrtec’s sheet metal cutting bit. An excellent tool for the cottage, for the car repair shop and for the development of the imagination.

This is one of the few, counted cases, when I succumbed to the advertising. Somewhere on the Internet I clicked a link and watched a video about the tool. And it got me interested.

And I was so excited that I wanted a tool, just like a pregnant woman wants a pickle.

Here it is. a miracle of technical thought. The product is pressed into the plastic and I took it out of there.Here we can see (from left to right) plastic package, which has already been thrown away, a key to dismantle the device, a cardboard with a manual on the back and of course the device we are interested in.

Let’s turn the cardboard over and look at the letters.From the description we see that the magic tool is a nozzle on the drill, used for cutting sheet metal.

Everything that’s written here is true. I was especially interested in “allows you to cut any shape of workpiece.”.I think that’s an important point. We all know that you can cut through metal with an angle grinder, for example. But to cut out what is artistic angle grinder does not work, but such a tool is quite capable of this task.

Now let’s take a closer look at the tool itself.

On the left is the operating part, on the right is the crank, on the bottom is the rod that is fastened into the chuck of the drill. Well, in the central part is actually a mechanism that converts the rotation in reciprocating motion.What is “reciprocating motion” I will not explain, otherwise I will be attacked by the moderators.

By the way, the handle can be unscrewed. It can be screwed on both sides of the device. As I understand it, it doubles the working life.

That’s the hexagon that fits in the drill chuck. An ordinary hexagon, there’s nothing special to talk about.

Let’s take a closer look at the working part.The sheet metal that we want to cut is put between the two black parts of the device. So the workpiece, which has a reciprocating motion, is essentially cutting up the metal.

Well, that’s all just theory. Let’s see how this tool works in practice.We need an electric drill, in my case with a thick drill bit.I’ve got a rusty drill bit, but it works.

And we also need something for the test.This “something” was an old, leaky barrel. As you know, in a kulak’s economy and the bull’s tail is a rope. The barrel can no longer be used as it should be, but it can continue its life as a new barrel.

The barrel is tricky, you just can’t get to it. That’s what we needed a thick drill bit for. We start by drilling a hole in the barrel, or to put it simply, a hole.

And now begins the benefit of our drill bit.Putting the nozzle in the chuck.

Now through the drilled hole or should I say hole, let’s bring the working part of the tool to the body of the barrel.

Here I show you the width of the cut, you can see that it’s 4 mm.

And this is how the work process looks like from the outside. All that’s left for me to do is walk over, turn on the drill and continue cutting the barrel.

The cardboard that came with the tool says “does not leave any irregularities on the cut edges”.That’s right. The edge is pretty neat, not sharp, no burrs. It’s hard to cut yourself on such an edge.

As a result of the work, the barrel was cut into three pieces.On one of these parts you can see the safety glasses. I recommend you do not neglect the safety equipment, work with goggles, gloves and preferably in special clothing, such as overalls “Spets”

A few more words about safety.When working, the nozzle on the drill bit for cutting sheet metal Sibritech, a chip is formed. The chips are quite a lot, they are sharp, fine and very unpleasant. That’s why before I started, I scattered the material on the ground to make it easier to collect these shavings.

It is also possible to collect with a magnet, that’s how one likes.

Cricket punching nozzle for cutting metal

Cutting sheet steel and non-ferrous metals has always been a topical issue in heavy industry, automotive and railway workshops of various ranks, as well as in the household. To date, there are only two methods of such processing: thermal and mechanical. Cricket for metal cutting refers to a mechanical type of attachment in the form of a modified chisel. The rhythm of these tools is very similar to the chirping of the insect with the same name. hence the name.

Cricket work

Nowadays, in the age of high technology, steel and non-ferrous metal is pierced and cut. no one has invented anything more original. All these methods have many disadvantages: first of all, they have accuracy and speed problems. Nevertheless, working with a cricket nozzle for cutting, you can minimize these losses, although not 100%. Someone might say CNC laser machining is much more accurate, but you do not want to cut out the one and only figure you need, pre-setting the software control of the machine?!

Features and specifications

The “cricket cutter” can be purchased in a store or other retail outlet as follows. One of each type:

• Double-head nozzle;
• replaceable type die;
• replaceable punch (chisel);
• combination wrench (wrench/hexagon);
• plastic handle;
• metal case;
• instruction manual.

Note: the list above must also be included in the manufacturer’s instructions. When buying, it is a good idea to check that all of the following items are included in the kit.

Please refer to the table below for the main technical characteristics of the cricket bit.

Rotation speed recommended by the manufacturer	3000 rpm
Desired power of the tool	≥420 W
Minimum cutting radius	12 mm
Change of direction when working	360°
Cutting stainless steel sheet	≤1,0 mm
Cutting black sheet metal	≤1.6 mm
Cutting non-ferrous sheet metal	≤2.0 mm
tool dimensions	180x75x55mm
Net Weight	400 г

Important: as can be seen from the technical data of the bit, it can only be used with a corded or pneumatic drill. Even professional cordless screwdrivers like Makita’s do not have enough motor speed and power for cricket.

Do not forget what not to do:

• Cut metal sheets thicker than those recommended in the table;
• do not use the tool for its intended purpose;
• change the design of the device;
• start work before the drill has reached full speed;
• turn off the drill while cutting metal.

Recommendations for replacing the die and punch

• Remove the screw with an Allen key.
• Make sure (you can visually) that there are no foreign objects (chips, sawdust) under the screw.
• Gently pull the matrix out of the housing.
• Installation of another die is carried out in the reverse order.
• Remove the retaining ring and remove the cover.
• Loosen the locknut of the locking screw by two or three turns with an open-ended wrench.
• Unscrew this screw and remove the punch.
• Position the other punch in the ram so that the retaining screw can enter the notch.
• Tighten the counter nut of the retaining screw.
• Close the cover and secure it with the retaining ring.

Tip: If the edge of the punch is blunt, do not rush to change it. In most cases just turn the die by 90-120°. To do this loosen the retaining screw and turn the matrix at the desired angle, then retighten the screw.

Safety tip

By far the biggest risk when using a tool like cricket to cut metal is cutting your hand or fingers on the edge of the cut sheet metal. But there are other possibilities for injury. One reason could be chips, especially from stainless steel: they have a high hardness and resilience, hence easily pierce not only work gloves and clothes, but also the soles of shoes. Usually, such chips are scattered in the form of small crescents, but there can also be small point fragments that get under the skin and sometimes they are not paid attention to, mistaking them for a scratch.

It’s easy to get hurt by these fragments, especially if they’re stainless steel Source jquapolis.

• The most affected area when working with such a tool is the feet. Often the skin in men is hardened there and a man does not feel a small wound immediately. As a result, cracking or even festering can begin, which leads to a loss of performance. Even if you work with closed shoes (boots), the floor should be constantly swept.
• The impeller of the drill, which is used to cool the engine, can also be dangerous. The metal fragments, getting into an air stream, are violently thrown out and easily pierce the skin on your face or hands (that’s why it’s important to use protective glasses). If the cricket on the drill will be used for a long time, you can take some safety measures: cover the radiator of the tool with ordinary women’s pantyhose.
• Metal shavings scattered around the yard, exposed to corrosion, and this can cause minor trouble in the form of spoiled paving tiles (rust stains) or a punctured bicycle camera.

When buying a tool

It can be said that all cricket cutters or die-cutters have the same design, as they are used for the same purpose, that is, it is not a universal, but a unique type of tool. This suggests that there are no additional options or lack of any features, therefore, all requirements will be the same regardless of the manufacturer.

There are two things to pay most attention to:

• Country of manufacture. The Germans, Italians and Americans have proven to be the best, but also most masters have no complaints about domestic models. Also you should remember that Chinese assembling is not always bad: they make not only products for wide consumption, but also professional tools. Therefore, one and perhaps the most important indicator of tool’s quality is its price. In these cases one should not be stingy in order not to pay twice, to paraphrase a well-known proverb.
• What you get with the case. If the product has a license, then in developed countries this parameter can not even be checked. the manufacturer will take care of the full package provided by the factory. But here, unfortunately, the trade is not always a decent people, and there may be something missing in the case. it will be immediately noticeable by an empty cell. As a last resort, the set can be checked by the documents. if the cricket is sold in the store, and not from the hands, the papers (or one of them) should be in Russian.

Types of nozzles

Drill bits vary in purpose:

Parallel stop is used to adjust the depth of the drill. And there are also special drill stanchions, thanks to them you can securely hold the tool and not get hurt at the same time.

The drill does not only have a drilling function. It can be used to make blind holes, for example, to install hinges in wooden furniture. For such an operation the Forstner drill bit is very suitable. The hole will turn out flat, and the edges are absolutely smooth. And you can also use feather drills instead of Forstner drills.

Cutting nozzles

Surely those who have used an angle grinder in their work have noticed how sloppily this tool cuts the processed material, there are jagged edges. But if you use a special nozzle for the drill, which is able to cut the metal, then you can see that the work will be done more delicately and without damaging the metal. Such a device is actuated by the chuck of the tool to which it will be mounted. If you need to cut metal, it is better to choose a drill with the number of revolutions, which is approximately 2800 rpm.

Advantages and types

The cut will always be very even, it is comfortable to work, the attachments are easy to maintain and use, no adjustments are required.

There is a very convenient tool on the drill, called “Cricket”. It is a cutting scissors with two cutting heads. Such a device is used in order to cut thin sheet metal:

“Cricket” is very helpful to the owner of the plot, who has decided to install a fence from metal profile.

Cricket” is used for sheets of materials that have these parameters:

After processing, the surface will be smooth, no nicks will remain, the coating will be completely intact.

If you want to make a good, even cut on the inside, you first have to drill a hole there.

The die nozzle rotates constantly, which means you can work with it on both vertical and horizontal surfaces. In order to use the tool, it is recommended that you purchase a drill that has 3,000 rpm. RPM. The minimum number is 1500 rpm.

To cut a profiled sheet metal or tiles, you can use the nozzle “Steel Beaver”.

The principle of operation will be similar to the previous nozzle, but the cut will be made with frequent reciprocating movements of the punch, which will bend the metal and tear it against the die. With this kind of tooling it is very easy to make straight cutters, as well as, if necessary, also curved ones.

The cutting radius is 1.2 cm. What makes this attachment different is that you can work with it at absolutely any angle. If you compare it with the “Cricket”, it is able to cut metal that has a greater thickness. 1.8 mm. The advantage of the attachment is considered to be a very even cut, as well as during the work there will be absolutely no sparks, the metal will not be deformed.

When you are done cutting metal, you need to move it very carefully because the cut edge will become very sharp.

Why not an angle grinder?

If you carefully read the instructions to the metal tile and its installation, then surely you have found a paragraph that says that cutting with an angle grinder is prohibited. The warranty on the product in this case simply becomes void. Why so?

Metal from above is protected by a special polymer that does not tolerate high temperatures. And when using an angle grinder metal will be heated to just those critical temperatures, so that in certain places to melt and the zinc coating, and the polymer layer. The result. deformation of protective layers, such tiles will be damaged by rust and can even leak.

In addition, sparks from the contact of the abrasive disc and shingles will fly in different directions, forming damage. These points will become small, and later more dangerous islands of corrosion.

Tip: If you decide to cut with an angle grinder, try to protect the tile sheets from sparks. And the places of the cut should be coated with paint for facades. This is not the best, but tolerable option.

The nozzle on the drill for cutting metal. nibbler shears

Any man who likes to do everything with his hands has a drill in his kit. It is this simple device can cope with cutting metal, if you buy it as an accessory: a nozzle on the drill for metal cutting.

In essence it is a spline or punch, which, thanks to the matrix, pierces the metal with multiple repetitive motions. By doing this, a strip of the shape you want is formed in the metal to be machined. The impact on the metal spot, the maximum preservation for the integrity of the protective layers of metal. The width of the slot is 3.1 mm.

Such a nozzle is also called a punching or carving shears for metal. Of course, it does not work like a pair of scissors, unlike a two-blade electric shear, but it does work by punching.

Nozzle scissors drill is represented in the market several models from different manufacturers:

The nozzle can be used to work metals with the following parameters:

That is, the softer the substrate, the thicker it can be, so it can be cut with a drill with this nozzle. In principle, all models of this nozzle work about the same parameters regarding the thickness of the metal, perhaps with some exceptions. The edge the nozzle forms is not crumpled, but precise and sharp. You only need to choose the right speed on the drive of the drill itself.

It is very convenient to cut rounded and any shaped cuts using this mechanism, thanks to the punch. With the same method you can cut the ventilation components for the roof.

To work with the nozzle on the drill for cutting metal requires a little skill, but you quickly master it. The nozzle is attached to the chuck of the drill, which starts it in the work. Electro-mechanical punching shears work in the same way.

Making the sleeve

The base of the scissor design is an eccentric mechanism. For it you need to turn the shaft from a steel round bar on a lathe for installation of 2 large bearings.

A shank is ground on one side so that it can be clamped in the drill chuck. Leave a thickening at the other end of the shaft to serve as a bearing stop.On the enlarged diameter side a short shaft is welded with a slight offset to the long shaft, corresponding to the bearing seat diameter of the smaller bearing. The result is an eccentric on which the bearings are mounted.

It must contain part of the shaft with the bearings, while the shank remains on the outside. If you cannot find a tube with a suitable inside diameter, it can be partially counter-bored.Next, the inner ring bearings are welded to the eccentric. The outer rim of the outermost large bearing is also welded to the pipe.

In the next step, a movable blade is cut out of thick sheet steel for scissors. A fork is made in one side of its end equal in width to the diameter of the smaller bearing.

The workpiece is tried on between the lugs on the bearing. To allow it to move as the eccentric rotates, a longitudinal groove must be made in the tube for it. According to the results of measurements, the eyelets and the blade itself are drilled, after which it is cut to the correct shape.

Then the second fixed bottom blade is made. Unlike the first one, the escapement is taken out on it, and the sharpening is done.