How to disassemble the Bosch rotary hammer 2 26

Table of Contents:

Bosch Peorator Button Repair

The principle of the Bosch 2-26 is the same as that of the famous brands. Rotating rotor transmits torque to the intermediate shaft of the mechanical peeler assembly while simultaneously transmitting a translational motion via a roller bearing to the peeler impact mechanism. Operating torque is transmitted to the power tool with a progressive impact pulse. the myth principle is implemented in numerous peorators.

Different companies, producing torches, of course, have their own design features.

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Bosch torches are considered the best in their segment of power tools. Alas, nothing lasts forever.

If your Bosch 2-20, 2-24, 2-26 has stopped working, it can certainly be repaired at home. You should have some basic locksmith skills and not a little knowledge of electrical engineering. Not another important detail, the design of the Bosch peorator is so simple that it does not cause difficulties when performing repairs.

Performing repair of power tools, including repair of Bosch torches, you must strictly adhere to safety rules when working with electric appliances.

To facilitate the repair of the Bosch peorator, its disassembly and reassembly, study the assembly diagram of the tool:

Bosch 2-26 schematic diagram Any disassembly of the Bosch 2-26 burner begins after an inspection, a test run and identifying the cause of the failure of the device.

Disassembly video of the Bosch 2-26

Disassembly of the quick-release cartridge

There are usually two types of chucks used in Bosch rotary tools: SDS-plus chucks not SDS-max chucks. The big difference is the clamping of the tail end of the working organ.

The Bosch torch chuck design differs in the construction of the tool’s landing rods based on the SDS-plus or otherwise SDS-max model. In addition to the above chuck types there are SDS-top, SDS-quick chucks.

The difference between the cartridge mounting units

The disassembly procedure for the Bosch 2-26 chuck is simple:

  • Remove the rubber tip pos.34;
  • take out the retaining ring pos.87;
  • Remove the steel washer pos.833;
  • Remove the conical spring pos.833;
  • Carefully, so as not to lose it, using a magnet, take out the barrel balls pos.89.

SDS-plus chuck Carefully examine what remains for our customer to do chuck parts.

SDS-plus quick-release chuck disassembled

SDS-plus chucks are designed especially for drilling tools. Diameter of tool shanks is 10 mm, length of working tool in the range of 110 1000 mm. Drill bit diameter is in the range of 426 mm.

Device of the Bosch torch

Electrical and mechanical parts are the main components of this tool.

  • Engine;
  • Motor control device (sometimes combined with a switch);
  • of the on/off switch;
  • Other mechanical problems with the motor;. Items that absorb noise;
  • power cord.

Various additions in the form of a drill, bits, vacuum cleaner and other parts can be attached to this tool in the kit.

Other mechanical problems and troubleshooting

In addition to breakdowns related to the percussion mechanism, other mechanical breakdowns can occur in the peorator.

Mode switch

There are times when the machine’s mode switch fails. It is mainly caused by dust clogging of this assembly. To repair the switch, you will need to disconnect it from the housing (for how to do this, see the “How to Repair a Switch” section of this manual). If there are any signs of damage (see above) and clean off any dirt. If you find any breaks in the plastic parts of the switch, it will have to be replaced.

Gears with a bevel gear

The reason why the tool doesn’t work properly, namely, stops drilling and chiseling may be caused by worn teeth on the rotor shaft.

If this happens, the teeth will be worn on the intermediate helical gear as well.

This problem occurs when the tool jams or the clutch is malfunctioning. The breakage is resolved by replacing the intermediate gear and the motor rotor.

Drill bit does not stay in the chuck

The cause of the fact that the rotor does not hold the drill lies in the chuck breakage and the wear of its constituent parts:

The chuck must be disassembled and the problematic parts replaced.

Drill bit stuck in the chuck

Reasons for a drill being stuck in the chuck of the machine could be.

  • Before installing the tool, you did not put grease on its shank. It is necessary to move aside the rubber sealing chuck and inject WD-40 into the seat of the tool.
  • There is dust under the balls. Carry out the same operation as above.
  • If you used an ordinary drill bit inserted in the adapter, then also treat it with liquid WD-40, wait a couple of minutes, and, slightly tapping with a hammer on the surface of the clamp, loosen the tool in different directions. Usually after these steps, the jaws unclamp and allow for removal of the drill.
  • Tool shank is loose. First pour in WD-40 fluid and try to pull out the drill. If all else fails, disassemble the chuck and tap out the snapper. You can also use the tips on how to get a tool stuck in the machine from this video.

Other mechanical breaks and how to break it

Besides damage caused by the percussion mechanism, there are other mechanical breakdowns that can occur in the peorator.

Mode switch

It happens sometimes that the machine’s mode switch malfunctions. It is mainly caused by dust clogging. To fix the switch you will need to disconnect it from the body (how to do this, see “Disconnect the switch”). Clean the switch (see above) and wash off any dirt. If you notice any damage to the plastic parts of the switch, it must be replaced.

Gears with an oblique tooth

The reason why the machine stopped working properly, namely, stopped drilling and chiseling, may be due to worn teeth on the rotor shaft.

If this happens, the teeth will be worn on the spur gear as well.

This problem occurs when the tool jams or the clutch malfunctions. The breakdown is repaired by replacing the intermediate gear and the motor rotor.

Drill bit does not stay in the chuck

The reason why the chuck does not hold the drill is due to chuck breakage and wear of the parts that make it up:

You need to disassemble the chuck and replace the problem parts.

Drill jammed in the lever

Causes of a drill being stuck in the chuck of the machine may include the following.

  • You did not apply any lubricant to the shank before installing the bit. The sealing rubber of the chuck has to be pushed aside and WD-40 injected into the seat of the tool.
  • Dust got under the balls. Carry out the same operation as above.
  • If you used an ordinary drill bit inserted in the adapter, then also treat it with WD-40 fluid, wait a couple of minutes, and, slightly tapping with a hammer on the surface of the clamp, loosen the tool in different directions. Usually after you do this the jaws unclamp and the drill can be removed.
  • Tool shank is loose. First pour in WD-40 fluid and try to pull out the drill. If nothing works, it is necessary to dismantle the cartridge and dislodge the tooling. You can also use the tips on how to get a tool stuck in the machine from this video.
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Disassembly and removal of the cartridge

In order to repair the peorator, you must first properly disassemble it. And we begin by disassembling the cartridge.

  • Remove the rubber tip and retaining ring;
  • Remove the washer and conical spring;
  • Take out the side balls (preferably with a magnet);
  • Place the operating mode lever in the maximum position and remove the switch handle. Fix the position;
  • We remove the back overlay on the handle and the motor brush;
  • Unscrew the 4 screws near the auger to remove the front cover;
  • Remove the barrel and shaft and, using a screwdriver, remove the bracket and bearing;
  • Open the back cover and remove the reversing switch;
  • Remove the rotor, for which unscrew the fasteners and disconnect terminals from the starter, which must also be removed by removing the protective casing.

Important! Be very careful where and when you remove any parts during disassembly. Fold them up so that you do not lose them in any way. This will determine whether or not you can put the tool back together.

Disassembling the electrical section of the Bosch 2-26

Disassembly of the Bosch 2-26 Peorator, its electrical part, begins by removing the back cover on the peorator handle by removing the three screws.

The next step is to remove the reversing switch.

Turn it into neutral position and raise it toward you. Reversing switch out.

To remove the stator cover with the right hand holding the mechanical unit and the left hand holding the stator housing, pull them apart while rocking.

To separate the rotor from the mechanical assembly, simply drag these parts in different directions. The rotor is attached in the mechanical assembly by a small helical gear inserted into contact with the large helical gear of the mechanical assembly.

The rotor is now free and you can examine closely the condition of the manifold and bearings.

To remove the stator just remove the plastic protective sleeve and hit the end of the housing where the stator is located with a wooden spatula or hammer. Before you do this, be sure to remove the two screws securing the stator to the housing.

The stator is removed, the rotor is removed, and you can proceed to the examination and defect inspection of all the parts that make up the electrical part of the Bosch torch.

disassemble, bosch, rotary, hammer

At examination of disassembled Bosch 2-26 burner, pay special attention to condition of carbon brushes, deposits on brush holders and reliability of their fastening, integrity of reversing switch contacts, condition of wire at the entrance to the burner.

The length of the brushes must not be shorter than 8 mm. On the brush holders should not be traces of sparks and carbon dust from the brushes, on the contacts of the reversing switch of the Bosch 2-26 must not be burned out or damaged contacts.

If you have determined that your stator has failed and you do not have the money to buy a new one, or you want to repair the part with your own hands, you.

Products made of glass have always been very popular: frescoes, stained glass, dishes and many other things created from scraps of this.

Room, door/window and/or wall arch niche is the most effective way to zoning the space of living spaces. It adds to a dwelling.

Repair of Bosch torches with your own hands

If any parts in the tool are damaged, broken or poorly performing their function, then they simply need to be replaced. If the brushes are frayed, they are simply replaced with new ones when you disassemble them. Peorator cartridge with slow rotation of the rim, worn duster, failed bearings are also replaced. But there are other faults that you are able to fix. If there is a winding breakdown, the stator and armature must be rewound. Keep an eye on the lubrication and re-lubricate certain parts from time to time.

Bosch Peorator Repair 2 26

Before fixing anything in this model, you need to familiarize yourself with the features of the device, the circuitry and the principle of operation. The rotary shaft transmits the rotation to the shaft of the barrel via an intermediate shaft whose bearing directs the return motion to the striking piston.

When disassembling the barrel shaft in the firing unit special attention should be paid to the fixation of the spur gear. Before removing the spur gear, you must remove the 3 pins that hold it in place in this model.

Bosch 2 24 Peorator Repair

In this Bosch gbh 2 24 dsr peorator, the intermediate shaft consists of a shift part, bearing assembly and clutch. The latter is most commonly damaged because it has teeth that wear out quickly. Repair of this failure involves readjusting the tooth profile. You can often notice that there is no impact. The peorator may gradually stop chiseling due to wear of the rubber parts, which should be replaced in time. And if you use more force than necessary, the striker piston can get jammed.

Variety

Bosch produces drills for home and professional use. A visual feature of the first tool is its green body, the second tool is blue. Domestic models are designed for short periods of work. They require time for cooling the motor.

Professional tools are for construction and renovation on a large scale. They have a high power and productivity.

In operation, they heat up less than household models, so they can be used without fear for prolonged drilling.

Impact

Impact drills are for professional use. They can withstand high and sustained loads. Can drill in strong materials with impact mode, screw fasteners in wood, brick or concrete.

When using a mixer with such devices it is convenient to mix various mortars (not more than 10 liters at a time). All impact drills have a high torque.

Electric

Such devices work when connected to 220 V mains. They have a two-wire wire protected by a good insulation, which protects it from breaks and temperature effects.

Most drills are available with a 2 to 2.5-meter cord. Rarely available with a four-meter cord.

Cordless

Drill with battery (lithium-ion or sodium cadmium versions). These devices are mobile. They can be used everywhere, even in the field. They do not require a mains connection. Most models can operate in two-speed mode. Bosch cordless drills have one thing in common. the Hyper charge system that lets you fully charge the device in half an hour.

All tools have a quick-action chuck so that the operator can change the drill quickly with one hand.

Cordless

Devices designed for drilling only. Most models have a reverse function and the possibility of working in several speed modes, so they can be used as an electric screwdriver.

Read also: Rating of torque wrenches manufacturers

Impact drills use ball and roller bearings to ensure durability.

Angular

It is a mini drill, which is convenient to use in conditions of limited space or when it is necessary to drill holes in hard-to-reach places. It is notable for its low weight, compact size. Such devices are equipped with an angular gear.

Models are low-powered, do not have an impact mechanism, and are most often used to perform household work.

Due to a wide range of models it is sometimes difficult for consumers to choose the right one and purchase the best one for themselves. Let’s find out what to look for when buying a drill.

Review: Bosch GBH 2-26 DRE. I can’t imagine making repairs without it. Detailed review

Nine years ago I got a Bosch Peorator for my birthday. Before that, I had regular drills, which I was always struggling with. Especially when working on concrete. It cost about 7000 at the time. I would not buy it myself because it seemed to me that it was very expensive. Now, after 9 years, I realize it’s WELL worth it! I did a lot of repairs in a bunch of apartments with this miracle. Drilled, stroked, chipped plaster, cut holes for outlets. I did everything with this drill. Thousands of holes, tens of meters of drill holes. The torch has never been sitting idle for long. Even today, before writing this review, did repairs on the parents’ balcony:) During all this time with the peorator nothing serious happened. Apologies in advance for the appearance of the product.

The torch comes in a large plastic case

disassemble, bosch, rotary, hammer

the case with a nice wide handle. The walls are pretty thick and nothing has cracked or broken.

Judging by the stickers, the torch is original and made in Germany.

Power output 800 watts (sticker on the peorator itself)

I don’t remember what was in the box when I bought it. Now everything looks like this.

The drill has a safety clutch that stops the chuck rotation if the drill jams.

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There is a plaque on the back of the gyroplane indicating its capabilities

The torch has a great power cord. 4 meters long, 8 mm diameter, soft rubber insulation, euro plug.

The cord is secured in the moving swivel at the entrance to the gator body. Hinge moves in either direction. This prevents the cord from breaking.

Peorator button with speed control. You push harder. more speed. There is a power button lock

The torch is equipped with a reverser. Lift the red petal up. Reverse is ready. There are ventilation holes as well.

On the back side is the same petal. The handle is rubberized, very comfortable and pleasant to hold

There are more ventilation holes in the middle of the housing

Twist the handle itself, the metal bracket loosens and it is easily removed from the rotor. Handle is also rubberized

The handle has a hole for the drilling depth limiter. You press the red button on the handle, insert the stop, release the button. Done.

Handle can be positioned as desired, at any angle.

Screwdriver chuck without any spanner. Locking system. SDS plus

The drills of this system have four slots. Two for guiding wedges and two for fixation

Inside the chuck you can see these guides and retainer balls

You just put the drill into the chuck, twist it until you hear a click and you’re done. To pull the drill out, just pull down on the skirt and pull it out. That’s it, it’s done

How to repair Bosch GBH 2-28 Peorator Repair How to repair Bosch Repair in Brest

Whatever the breakdown may be waiting for you, clean the housing. sometimes it’s the dirt and dust that prevents the unit from working properly.

To repair such a device as a peorator you should be as prepared as possible, which will reduce the financial and labor costs to a minimum. It is not bad if you are more or less familiar with the construction of the torch, you know what parts and assemblies it consists of, which will allow you to quickly replace a broken part. boils down to the trivial replacement of “flying” elements, which include:

It is worth noting that it is easiest to repair tools of the light class, given that such a peorator is excellent for carrying out in. But the breakdowns of more serious equipment are much more complicated, and only professional craftsmen can cope with them. In any case, whatever class of tool you are interested in, find a model with a vacuum cleaner. this device will save you time on cleaning, and also make the work safer, because it reduces the amount of dust.

Another problem is in the breakdown of windings, rewinding of the armature and starter, which also arise due to dust. Repair consists of thorough cleaning and replacement of the parts that cannot be repaired. But the “preventive” method is more reliable. To do this, you need to clean the device every two weeks, impregnate it with varnish or grease. By the way, it is necessary to choose carefully. So, there are a few rules. The first thing is better to buy the solution of the same manufacturer (Bosch, Makita, Enkor) as the torch itself, in this case oil or lacquer will fit perfectly. If there is no such a composition at hand, the oil for diesel engine will be perfect for you.

The second most popular cause of failure is brush wear, no matter how much your tool cost. even the most expensive models are prone to this problem. To change them is very easy: we disassemble the tool according to the above described scheme, find worn brushes and put new ones in their place. It is only necessary to determine correctly which of them are the best to use: carbon, graphite or carbon-graphite. So, the graphite ones are characterized by a long. but because of the hardness of the material the collector can be damaged. Carbon elements are short-lived, but have good contact with other parts of the peorator. The third option is optimal and inexpensive.

There are also problems with the mechanical elements of the device. Each model has switching modes and they often fail, especially the cheaper ones. The work algorithm is the same. disassemble the chuck, find the broken parts, replace them. The main thing is to buy the right elements. The same problem often “haunts” cartridges, which are exposed to the maximum load. Above all, protect them from dust and dirt by washing the elements with solidol. But if the cartridge is broken, we have nothing else to do but to replace it.

Now you know how to repair the peorator and you see that most of the breakdowns are reduced to simple cleaning or replacing defective parts. But if you have disassembled the tool and you do not see the cause, take it to a service center. the specialists will find the cause faster and fix it.

The principle of operation of the Bosch 2-26 is the same as that of the famous brands. The rotating rotor transmits the torque to the intermediate shaft of the mechanical unit, simultaneously transferring the translational motion via a roller bearing to the striking mechanism of the rotor and the impact pulse. The torque is transmitted to the working tool with a progressive shock pulse. This principle is found in all rotary tools.

But the various brands of the rotator have their own design features.

Bosch torches are considered the best in their segment of power tools. But nothing is everlasting.

If your Bosch 2-20, 2-24, 2-26 has stopped working, you can repair it with your own hands. You should have a basic locksmith skills and a little knowledge of electrical engineering. One more important detail, the design of Bosch torches is so simple that it does not cause any difficulties during repair.

When you service power tools, including Bosch rotary table saws, always follow safe working practices when operating a power tool.

To make it easier to repair, disassemble, and reassemble the Bosch torch, study the tool’s assembly diagram:

Schematic diagram of a Bosch 2-26 torch

Any disassembly of the Bosch 2-26 peorator begins after you have inspected it, tried it out and found the cause of the malfunction.

How to disassemble the Bosch 2-26 torch video

Disassembly procedure for the Bosch 2-26 hand torch

Since the order of disassembly of the Bosch 2-20; 2-24; 2-26 is practically the same, let’s examine the disassembly order on the example of the Bosch 2-26.

Disassembly of the Bosch GBH 2-26 dre Peorator begins with the disassembly of the quick-release chuck.

Disassembling the quick-release chuck

In Bosch rotary tool you will most often use two types of chucks: SDS-plus chucks and SDS-max chucks. The difference between them in the principle of clamping the tail end of the working body.

The Bosch chuck design differs depending on the SDS-plus or SDS-max model in terms of the tool drive shank design. In addition to the above chuck types there are SDS-top, SDS-quick chucks.

Difference between the chuck attachment points

The disassembly procedure for the Bosch 2-26 chuck is simple:

  • Remove the rubber nipple pos.34;
  • Take out the retaining ring pos.87;
  • Remove the steel washer pos.833;
  • Remove the conical spring pos.833;
  • Carefully, so as not to lose it, using a magnet, take out the barrel balls pos.89.

SDS-plus chuck

Carefully inspect all parts of the chuck.

SDS-plus quick-release chuck exploded

SDS-plus chucks were designed specifically for drilling tools. Diameter of tool shanks is 10 mm, length of working tool is in the range of 1101000 mm. Drill diameter is 4 26 mm.

How to remove the mode selector

Laying the tool on its side remove the mode switch pos.832.

First turn the switch to the “Drill” position, press it with a screwdriver all the way to the face of the switch (it is red) and turn it counterclockwise by an angle of 70º.

Pull out the switch handle from the housing by jiggling it.

Disassembly of the firing mechanism assembly

With the Bosch 2-26 upright on the handle, remove the four screws pos.90 holding the cover of the mechanical unit housing.

Press on the shaft end of the beater and remove the cover. The cover is black plastic.

The barrel must now be removed pos.821 and intermediate shaft pos.826. They are not attached in any way.

Then using a screwdriver remove the bracket pos.48 rolling bearing pos.830. By the way, it is simply called “drunken bearing”. Consistently remove: sleeve pos.26 and the “drunken bearing”.

Getting to the drunk bearing

Firing pin assembly disassembly

  • disassembly of the Bosch Peorator barrel assembly begins at the cavity side, taking out the cylinder pos.26 with firing pin pos.27;
  • take the pin and pinion assembly out of the cavity;
  • on the chuck shaft side remove the circlip pos.85, steel ring pos.38 and another retaining ring pos.85;
  • remove the spur gear pos.22.
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Impact unit, intermediate shaft and drunken bearing

Disassembly of the cylinder

The striker is inserted inside the cylinder pos.27, from which the rubber ring pos.73. The rubber parts must be replaced at any disassembly.

At the opposite end of the cylinder the pivot pos.29 and two flat washers pos.41.

Disassembly of the intermediate shaft

Intermediate shaft is disassembled by removing the shaft pos.24 and pulling it out of the housing pos.77 “drunken bearing”.

Bearings can be removed with pullers or by hand, with a tool.

disassemble, bosch, rotary, hammer

Order of disassembly of the Bosch 2-26 screamer

Since the disassembly procedure for the Bosch 2-20; 2-24; and 2-26 is almost identical, let us examine the disassembly sequence on the example of the Bosch 2-26.

Disassembly of the Bosch GBH 2-26 dre Peorator begins with the disassembly of the quick-release chuck.

Disassembly of the quick chuck

There are two types of chucks most commonly used in Bosch perforators: SDS-plus chucks and SDS-max chucks. The difference between them in the principle of clamping the tail part of the working organ.

The Bosch chuck design differs in the tool bit design depending on the SDS-plus or SDS-max model. There are SDS-top, SDS-quick chucks in addition to the above chuck types.

The difference between the cartridge fastening assemblies

The disassembly procedure for the Bosch GBH 2-26 dre chuck is simple:

  • Remove the rubber nose cap pos.34;
  • remove the retaining ring pos.87;
  • remove the steel washer pos.833;
  • Remove the conical spring pos.833;
  • Carefully, so as not to lose it, using a magnet, take out the barrel balls pos.89.

SDS-plus chuck

Carefully inspect all the parts of the chuck.

SDS-plus quick-action chuck disassembled

SDS-plus chucks have been specially developed for drilling tools. Tool shank diameter is 10 mm, working tool length in the range of 1101000 mm. Drill bit diameter range is 426 mm.

How to remove the mode switch

With the tool on its side, remove the change-over lever pos.832.

First turn the switch to the “Drill” position, press it with a screwdriver all the way to the face of the switch (it is red) and turn it counterclockwise by an angle of 70º.

jiggle the switch handle and pull the switch handle out of the housing.

Disassembling the percussion assembly

With the Bosch Peorator 2-26 upright on the handle, unscrew the four screws pos.90 holding the cover of the mechanical assembly housing.

Press on the end of the firing pin shaft and remove the cover. Black plastic cover.

Now we need to remove the barrel pos.821 and intermediate shaft pos.826. They are not secured in any way.

Next, use a screwdriver to remove the bracket pos.48 rolling bearing pos.830. By the way, it is simply called the “drunken bearing”. Remove the following in sequence: sleeve pos.26 and the “drunken bearing”.

We’re getting to the drunken bearing

Disassembly of the firing pin assembly

  • disassembly of the Bosch perforator barrel assembly begins from the side of the cavity, taking out the cylinder pos.26 with the striker pos.27;
  • the boss assembly is to be taken out of the cavity;
  • on the cartridge shaft side remove retaining ring pos.85, steel ring pos.38 and one more circlip pos.85;
  • Remove the spur gear pos.22.

Firing mechanism assembly, intermediate shaft and drunken bearing

Disassembling the cylinder

There is a striker inserted inside the cylinder pos.27, from which you need to remove the rubber ring pos.73. Whenever disassembly is carried out, the rubber parts must be replaced.

At the opposite end of the cylinder there is a pivot pos.29 and two flat washers pos.41.

Disassembly of the intermediate shaft

The intermediate shaft is disassembled by removing the shaft pos.24 and out of housing pos.77 “drunken bearing.”.

Bearings can be removed with pullers or manually by.

Unusual malfunction of the Bosch torch

Bosch pivots are very reliable. But there are failures that are almost never encountered in practice. Here is one of them.

Bosch drills but does not chisel

If the torch has stopped hammering but still allows drilling, the most likely cause is a “drunken bearing” failure. This fault is not common and it can be difficult to find.

No need to go to a repair shop to have it repaired. Anybody with a little understanding of mechanics can do it.

New Drunk Bearing

First you need to disassemble the Bosch torque generator to the intermediate shaft. The disassembly procedure is given above.

By removing the intermediate shaft, you get to the “drunk bearing”. Failure of a rolling bearing is indicated by a broken cage, scattered balls, pieces of the cage.

Take out the bearing, remove dirt, and all parts of the ruined mechanism.

Buy a new “drunken bearing” and, having lubricated all parts with new grease, replace and reassemble it in the reverse order of disassembly steps.

Disassembling the roller bearing and removing the chuck

In order to repair the chuck, you must first disassemble it correctly. And we begin by disassembling the cartridge.

  • Remove the rubber nipple and the retaining ring;
  • Remove the washer and conical spring;
  • Take out the side balls (preferably with a magnet);
  • Put the mode lever in the position equal to the maximum and remove the switch knob. Fix the position;
  • Remove the rear cover on the handle and motor brush;
  • Unscrew the 4 screws near the drill to remove the front cover;
  • Remove the barrel and shaft, and use a screwdriver to remove the bracket and bearing;
  • Open the back cover and remove the reversing switch;
  • Remove the rotor, for which unscrew the fasteners and disconnect the terminals from the starter, which should also be removed by removing the protective cover.

Important! When disassembling, be very careful where and when you remove certain parts. Fold them up so that they are not lost in any way. It depends on this whether you put the tool back together or not.

Repair of Bosch torches with your own hands

If any parts in the tool are damaged, broken, or not performing well, they simply need to be replaced. If the brushes are frayed, simply replace them with new ones when you disassemble them. Peorator cartridge in the slow rotation of the rim, worn duster, failed bearings are also replaced. But there are other faults you can fix as well. If there is a winding breakdown, the stator and armature must be rewound. You need to keep an eye on the lubrication and lubricate certain parts from time to time.

Repair of Bosch Peorator 2 26

Before fixing anything in this model, you should get acquainted with the peculiarities of the device, the circuitry and the principle of operation. The rotary shaft transmits the rotation to the barrel shaft through an intermediate shaft whose bearing guides the return motion to the striking piston.

When disassembling the barrel shaft in the firing unit, you need to pay special attention to the fixation of the spur gear. Before removing it, it is necessary to remove the 3 pins on which it is fixed in this model.

Bosch 2 24 Peorator Repair

In this Bosch gbh 2 24 dsr peorator, the intermediate shaft consists of a shift part, bearing assembly and clutch. The lever handle is the most commonly damaged because it wears out the teeth very quickly. Repair of such breakage is to correct profile of gearing teeth. Often you can notice that there is no kick. The cutting tool can stop chiseling gradually because the rubber parts are worn and need to be replaced in time. Applying more force than necessary can cause the striker piston to jam.

Repair of Bosch 2-28 torches

Sometimes the splines in this tool model wear out. In this case it is necessary to disassemble the gearbox (it is almost similar to Bosch 2-24, only the bearing is different). It is better to replace the whole barrel, because the strikers wear out together with the slits.

As we can see, the repair of peorators can be done at home with your own hands. Do not spend a lot of money for different kinds of repairs in service centers, which, as we know, are not cheap. But don’t forget to observe the following usage and safety regulations.