How to get that perfect level cut for your lawn. Riding mower cutting uneven

why is my push lawnmower not cutting evenly?

I know how frustrating this can be. When I had five vans running full time this was not an uncommon problem.

I came up with a simple step by step method of diagnosing and fixing the issue. It worked well for me and I hope you will find it helpful as well.

So. why is your lawnmower not cutting evenly? Here are the most common reasons going from most likely to least likely.

When a worker told me that they had this problem I would run through the list of problems and fixes it as set out below.

Wheel height adjustment.

This might sound a bit obvious but its a good thing to check first.

Years ago I had a flat mate who was a refrigeration engineer and sometimes he was on call. The first question he asked when a call came in was “is the unit plugged in and switched on?”. On the surface, this sounds like a silly question but if the answer after checking was “no” then he just saved some time and they saved a whole lot of money.

Check that the height adjustment is correct, not damaged and if you have interdependent wheel height adjustment make sure that they are all on the same level.

Now that you have ruled that out lets move on.

Check the engine mounts and the body for cracks.

The easiest way to do this is to push down on the engine while the mower is level on the ground. Does the engine move have any play on the body?

The engine should not have any movement on the body at all. If there is movement there, check the engine mounts. If they all look ok and secure then check the body for cracks.

If your body has cracks they will usually be around the engine mounts where the body connects to the engine or you can get cracks around the axels. Either of these will cause flex. This means that as you push the mower forward the body will dip, causing the blade to move closer to the ground and scalp areas of the lawn.

This actually has a different visual clue when you are mowing. Instead of cutting low on one side the mower acts more erratically. It may mow fine for a bit and then scalp a piece of lawn for no apparent reason. This is a giveaway that you have worn engine mounts or a cracked body.

If the culprit is a worn engine mount then that can easily be replaced as demonstrated in the video below.

If the body is cracked, then you can have that welded but I usually write the body off. To me, that is a sign of the beginning of the end of the mower.

Are the wheel axle Bushes worn?

Check the hole in the body where the axle comes out. Is there any play? If so have a look at what is holding the axle. It will usually be a metal or plastic ring. If it is worn it will need replacing. Here is a link to the part on a snapper mower to give you an idea of what it looks like. You will need to do a search for your make and model but the part will look similar. Below is a video that will show you how to replace the bushes.

Are the wheel bearings worn?

Go around you mower and push and pull on the wheels. Is there any play? The wheels should spin but not move inwards or out. If this is an issue you will need to pull off the offending wheel and replace the bearing or bearings. Below is a video on how to do that.

Is the blade damaged or bent?

Bent blades are caused by hitting objects so and you usually know it if you hit something that hard.

It was always a bit harder for me with my worker’s mowers and they usually swore black and blue “honestly I never hit anything”. But at the end of the day blades don’t bend themselves.

Its time to check the blade. Disconnect the spark plug and tilt you mower up with the spark plug facing towards the sky. Do not tip the mower on its side unless it is a two-stroke.

If you do not know if your mower is a two-stroke the easiest way to tell is to look for the dipstick. Two strokes don’t have them as the oil is mixed in with the fuel.

Once you can see the blade then make a mark on the inside of the mower body to mark when the end of the blade sits. Now turn the blade a full circle. Does the other side of the blade sit in the same place. It should.

If your blade fails this test then it may be bent. You will need to pull the blade off.

Once the blade is off. check to see if it is damaged or bent. I keep a spare blade to and I put them together to test. You can also use an old undamaged blade to run this test as well. If you don’t have another blade to compare it to then put the blade on your workbench. Is it sitting evenly? If not it needs replacing. If it does not look damaged then move to the next step.

Check your crankshaft. Is it bent?

The only way you can bend a crankshaft is to hit a solid object with your mower. There are usually a couple of aluminum notches on a blade-holder that should break off before any damage is done to the blade as seen below but this does not always happen.

The two lugs you see on the base are designed to break off if you hit something therefor saving your blade.

There are a couple of ways to test if your crankshaft is bent. The easiest way is to get someone to pull the starter cord while you look at the end of the crankshaft. (remember to disconnect the sparkplug and remove the blade) If it spins in a perfect circle it is not bent. If it turns unevenly then your crankshaft is bent.

If you are not 100% sure then you could try placing a pair of vice grips on the end of the crankshaft and then getting someone to slowly pull the pull start. This should make any unevenness even more obvious.

If your crankshaft is bent I am sorry but there is no easy fix. You will need to take it to the shop. If the damage not to bad then they may be able to bend it back. If not, then the mower is a write-off. Its time to buy a new one.

The grass you are trying to cut is too long.

If the lawn is up to your knees you will not get a nice cut. Cut as high as possible. The main issue you are going to get here is that the mower is not going to cut properly where the wheels have pushed the grass down. This uncut grass is going to be sticking up again by the next day. This is why I would recommend doing a second cut slightly lower the next day.

The grass is too wet.

You would be better waiting for the lawn to dry but if you are in a real hurry to mow the lawn then I suggest you read this post. “16 Tips to Cut Lawns on a Wet Day”

I hope this helps and happy lawn mowing people.

How to get that perfect level cut for your lawn

But you keep ending up with burnt patches or dead grass.

What gives? How do you get a level lawn?

Well, here is what you need to know about getting a perfect level cut.

There are 2 major factors to consider when it come to getting that perfect level cut.

Level Lawn Level Deck= Level Cut

Look, no matter how nice your grass is, if your lawn and your deck aren’t level, you won’t get a level cut.

Level Your Lawn

Simply put, if your lawn isn’t level, getting a level cut is not going to happen if you don’t have a level lawn.

So check over your lawn very closely and look for any divets, potholes, and imperfections in the grade.

This is crucial because if you have uneven terrain your mower will scalp areas as you are cutting the lawn.

Get this, this is more important if you have a riding lawn mower. As riding mowers are not very forgiving as smaller push mowers and will cause damage to the lawn as they run through a pothole.

Leveling Your Lawn Mower Deck and Blades

Have you ever hit a large stick, stump or rock in your lawn?

Then chances are you have dealt with a bent blade or mower deck.

And it’s no secret, a badly bent blade can tear a lawn apart in no time!

If you bend your blades, chances are you need to replace them with new ones. In my experience, bending them back into shape is not easy!

Keep Your Lawn Mower Blades Sharp!

Make sure your blades on your mower are sharp! You will need to sharpen them every 15-20 mowings or at least twice per season.

I recommend sharpening them first thing in spring, and then again in mid-summer. During the summer months is when your lawn is most susceptible to damage from heat stress, so it’s imperative to have sharp blades cutting the grass.

How To Level Mower Deck. fix uneven mow

If one blade is sharper than the other, the cut will be uneven.

While a bent blade is the most common enemy of a level cut, you should also check to make sure your deck is level too.

Leveling Your Mower Deck

Leveling your mower deck should be a rare occurrence, but sometimes it may need to be done.

To determine if you need to level your mower deck:

• Find a level surface like your driveway,
• Engage parking brake,
• Turn off mower and unplug battery,
• Make sure your tire pressure is even in all tires,
• Use a tape to measure the outside height of the blade on each side.
• Adjust the blades appropriately if there is more than a ⅛ of an inch difference between the two blades.

Pro Tip! If a tire is low on air, the mower deck will cut lower on one side than the other. Always check the pressure of your tires. If one tire is low on air, it can through off the whole mower deck.

Check For Broken Spindles

If you have checked all of the above tips and you still have an uneven cut. You may have a broken spindle. The spindles on your mower deck are what holds the blades in place.

When you hit a hard object, your spindle can break the part that attaches your spindle to the deck. They can also go bad over a long enough period of use.

Fortunately they are fairly easy to replace.

Here is a video that shows you how:

A Quality Cut Starts with Quality Grass

Here’s the deal, you also have to have a lawn that is worth cutting if you want to truly enjoy a perfectly level yard.

For one you have to invest in a fertilization program for your lawn. And this can take several months of care and investment to get your lawn to full, thick, and healthy status.

Here are some articles that can help you establish a healthy lawn:

Pro Tip! If you’re in cool season grass zone and have tall Fescue for instance, you’ll need to aerate and overseed your turf every fall. Without a thick healthy lawn you wont have anything to work with when it comes to mowing it beautifully.

Final Tip: Remove Grass Build Up on Lawn Mower Deck Regularly

If your mower deck gets too much grass built up in it, it can bog down the mower more easily. Worse still, if one side is more clogged than the other, one side of the deck will not perform as well as the other.

So it is important to clean your mower deck regularly.

To clean your mower deck:

Scrape out the deck of your mower removing the build up that accumulates underneath. You can use a regular painter’s spatula for this task.

Typically, you will need to clean out the deck of your mower every other cut.

This allows your mower to do its job better, and yields a better cleaner cut. Put a plastic trash bag down and scrape it out over the bag, this makes for easy cleanup of the debris.

Remember a Level Deck and Level Lawn Equal a Level Cut

By following this advice you too can create a beautifully maintained lawn that has a nice level cut.

Having a level cut can be an easy process if you have a new mower and a fairly level lawn. On the other had it can be a major task if you don’t.

If getting that perfect level cut is too difficult for you to manage on your own, why not hire a lawn care professional on GreenPal.

Hi, I’m Gene Caballero and I’m the co-founder of GreenPal. At GreenPal, we’re helping hundreds of thousands of Americans solve one of the trickiest problems: a reliable, fast, and affordable way to get lawncare taken care of. On behalf of GreenPal, I’ve been featured in the Indianapolis Star. the Sacramento Bee. Entrepreneur. Inc.com. and dozens more. Please feel free to say hi on or connect with me on LinkedIn.

Lawn Mower Leaving Uncut Grass – The complete fix with pics

It’s a common source of frustration, and ARGH!! But more than likely, the solution is a simple one, and you can fix it right now.

So why is my lawnmower leaving uncut grass? The most common cause of uncut grass is a dull blade, but it’s not the only possible reason:

This problem has many possible causes, but a dull blade is a usual suspect. Check your engine performance; if you feel the engine doesn’t sound right or it’s sluggish, go ahead and solve engine-related issues first.

Very often, uncut grass is simply caused by a dull blade. If you need help inspecting and safely sharpening your blade, check out “How to sharpen mower blade video”.

Check For Blade Damage

A defective blade will cause all kinds of problems in the grass-cutting and collection department. Examine your blade checking for loose bolts, and damaged, misaligned, bent, or broken blade tips.

Mower blades have it tough, and hitting stones, sprinklers, stumps, and dog toys is all part of the job. Mower blades turn about 50 times a second – that’s 200 mph at the tip.

So when you hit something, it’s going to damage even hardened steel. Bending and gouging chunks from the metal blade will cause uneven cutting and a horrible vibration.

A blade may look OK, but they do wear. If it’s more than four seasons old, it’s probably worn out. The leading edge cuts the grass and is easy to see when it’s worn. The trailing edge stuffs the bag, and as that edge wears, it becomes much less efficient. The solution – replace the blade.

Never attempt to repair or bend a blade; the metal has been specially treated, and interfering with this can cause them to shatter.

When replacing the blade, go ahead and get a new bolt and washer. They’re mower-specific and also specially treated, so a bolt from the local hardware store won’t be up to the job.

A torque wrench should be used to tighten the bolt to the correct specification. A quick check of your mower manual or on the dealer site will give the spec.

Blade Orientation

It’s possible to fit a blade backways, so if you fit a blade recently, just check that the orientation is correct. Hey, it could happen a Bishop, don’t worry about it!

Imagine looking down at the blade from above – the leading edge of the blade will turn clockwise.

Bent – A bent blade is dangerous, and it will cause lawn scalping and vibration and, if ignored, will damage the mower engine.

Replace – A new blade will solve many problems; when changing the blade, replace the bolt and washer too.

If you need video help replacing the blade, check out the “Replacing blade video” and if you need mower blades, check out the Amazon link below.

Dull Blade

Is your blade sharp? A dull blade is the number one reason for leaving uncut grass. The blunt blade will damage your lawn in no time at all; it tears the grass and leaves a jagged edge which turns the grass tips yellow.

The recommended way to repair the yellow grass damage – regularly cut with a sharp lawnmower blade. I tell my customers to sharpen at least once per season, and more depending on how often you cut and terrain type. A sharp blade is the secret to a healthy, beautiful green lawn.

Check out “Blade maintenance tools” here; they make the sharpening process a ton easier. And if you need video help sharpening the blade on or off the mower, check out the “Blade sharpening video”.

Sharpen – Your blade needs a sharpening once per season, at least. If you file your blade regularly, it won’t take much effort to keep sharp.

What Blade Type?

You may have a blade that doesn’t suit your climate or your needs. So what’s in a blade? Quite a lot of clever engineering, actually. A blade looks pretty unimpressive, but change it out for a different type or a new one, and you’ll be surprised at the difference in cut and finish.

There are two main blade types, the lift blade, and the mulching blade; each has its own strengths. How you intend to handle your clippings and your climate will likely dictate which blade suits you.

Lift Blade

The Lift blade, also known as the 2 in 1 (collecting or discharging), vacuums the grass upright, before cutting and moving it to the bag. These lift blades are designed for collecting grass and come in low, medium, and high lift.

Lift means sucking power, and a higher lift blade will require a more powerful engine. The lift is created by curving upwards of the trailing edge of the blade; the steeper curve, the more powerful the lift. These blades love to bag grass, wet or dry.

Lift blade – Also known as a 2-in-1, it loves to bag grass, wet or dry.

Mulching Blade

A true Mulching blade is designed to finely chop and disperse grass clippings, not collect them, a proper mulching mower won’t have a grass bag.

Many of the latest mowers are fitted with a hybrid mulching blade, also known as a 3-in-1 (collecting, discharging, or mulching). It’s sort of half lift blade, half mulching blade – Jack of all trades if you like.

These blades are not designed specifically to collect and are really best suited to very regular dry weather cutting; if the grass is tall, a 3 in 1 mulching blade may struggle to bag efficiently.

Mulching – 3 in 1 blade is good but has limited success in more challenging conditions.

Check Engine Power

Check if the throttle is set correctly; it should be set to fast/run when cutting. Does your throttle cable need adjustment? Is the engine running as it should? If the engine power is reduced, the mower will not cut well, especially when it hits a patch of heavy grass.

Lawnmowers are generally very reliable; give them a tune-up and blade sharpening at the start of every season, regardless of how it’s running. The oil should be changed every 50 hours, and clean the air filter every 25 hours, and more often in dusty dry conditions.

Check throttle lever – If your engine seems to be a bit sluggish, first check that the throttle is set to full. The lever may be reading full throttle, but the cable may not be moving at the carburetor end.

Second, check the air filter is clean, try running the engine without the filter, and see if it makes any difference.

Gas – Old fuel is the number one cause of poor engine performance. Fuel older than a month goes stale and will gum up the inside of the carburetor.

This blocks the fuel feed ports and causes fuel starvation. This results in a sluggish engine and a poorly cut lawn.

Try using a fuel stabilizer, it will keep the gas fresh for up to two years, but more importantly, it will prevent gumming up of the carburetor. Check out the video showing how to mix and add gas stabilizer. The page includes a link to the gas stabilizer I use.

If you suspect bad gas is causing sluggish engine output, try draining the fuel tank, and carburetor bowl, and filling them with fresh gas. This will very often fix the issue, and if it doesn’t, a full carburetor cleanout will.

Clutch Slip

If you’re using a tractor mower, you may have a clutch system fitted. The clutch or PTO (power take-off) transfers the engine power to the blades. When the clutch starts to fail, it slips, which means the blades are not turning with the same power or speed as normal. It will be especially noticeable in taller, heavier grass.

Some walk behind lawn mowers (Honda) use a very similar clutch set up, so if you have a separate control to engage the blade, then it’s likely you have some form of the clutch system, but note these clutch systems are cable operated and the tension on the cable may simply need to be adjusted.

If you don’t have a clutch fitted, but you do have a separate lever to control the blades, then your blades are possibly controlled by a tensioned belt. The Toro Time-master is a good example. (see below)

Pulling the bail lever tightens the tension on the belt and makes the blades spin; the tension on the belt may simply need to be adjusted.

Clutch – Three types of clutch, the tractor PTO, the Honda blade clutch, and finally, the belt-type clutch fitted to the Toro Time-master.

Related Questions

What causes uneven grass cutting? The most common cause of uneven grass cutting is an uneven deck. Other possible causes include:

• Damaged blade
• Deck wheels are set at different height
• Tire pressures are low (tractor mower)
• Deck height needs adjustment (tractor mower)
• Anti-scalpwheels are missing (tractor mower)

Hey, I’m John, and I’m a Red Seal Qualified Service Technician with over twenty-five years experience.

I’ve worked on all types of mechanical equipment, from cars to grass machinery, and this site is where I share fluff-free hacks, tips, and insider know-how.

Why You Shouldn’t Mow Wet Grass

Can you cut grass while it’s wet? Short answer: No. Whether it’s early morning and the lawn is still dewy, a rainstorm just ended, or you just ran your sprinklers, you should skip the mow for now. This article will explain all the reasons why you shouldn’t mow wet grass.

Mowing the lawn while it’s wet can cause:

Uneven cuts

For a clean, even cut, grass needs to stand up straight as the blade slices through it, rather than bending over limply. Think of it as the difference between cutting a string that’s pulled taut vs. a loose one.

But when the grass is wet, the water weighs it down, so it can’t stand up straight. The result is that the mower blades tear through the grass messily rather than cutting it cleanly.

Another potential issue is that the mower might miss some of those blades of grass hanging low to the ground. Then, when the grass dries, you’ll be left with long, uncut patches, and you’ll have to mow again.

Fungal lawn diseases

Those tears in the blades of grass will leave your lawn more susceptible to infection from fungal diseases. Fungi thrive in moist conditions, so the combination of torn grass and water lingering in the lawn all but guarantees lawn disease.

Some common lawn fungi to look out for (especially if you recently mowed the lawn while wet) are:

• Brown patch: Causes irregular circles of brown grass
• Anthracnose: Causes reddish-brown patches
• Leaf spot: Causes small brown spots with darker brown or purplish-red borders
• Red thread: Causes reddish threads of fungus on the tips of grass blades

These and other lawn diseases can weaken your grass and even kill large swaths of the lawn if left unchecked.

Suffocated grassroots

Did you know your lawn’s roots need a steady supply of oxygen to grow strong and healthy? Mowing wet grass can cut off that oxygen supply and suffocate your grassroots, leading to thin and patchy growth. Why does that happen? There are two reasons.

Compacted soil: When your grass is wet, your soil is wet, too. Rolling your heavy lawn mower across wet soil causes compaction, which means oxygen can’t reach the roots. The wheels can also cause unattractive ruts in wet soil.

Clumps of wet grass: Cut wet grass tends to clump. Your mower leaves these large clumps of clippings behind in the lawn, where they block airflow, water, and sunlight from reaching the living grass.

Lawn mower damage

Clumps of wet grass not only hurt your lawn. They also clog your mower blades, slowing them down and making the engine work harder to turn them. Electric lawn mowers, which have less torque than gas mowers, often can’t cut through wet grass at all for this reason.

Plus, the wet grass will stick to the underside of the mower, making it much harder for you to clean. And all that moisture can rust the mower’s blades and other metal parts.

Danger for you

Mowing the lawn wet is a lot riskier than it’s worth. The biggest risk is slipping and falling. No matter how much traction your sneakers have, they’re no match for slippery wet grass. Falling on its own would be bad enough, but falling while operating a machine with spinning blades is even more dangerous.

Then there’s the added danger of electrocution if you’re using an electric corded mower. If your extension cord is damaged at all and the bare wiring comes in contact with the wet grass, you’re in trouble.

Mowing a wet lawn puts your clothes in danger, too, because cut wet grass stains much worse than dry grass.

FAQ about cutting wet grass

Wait until the grass is dry, which will usually take at least a few hours. Walk through the lawn before mowing, and if your shoes or feet come away wet, don’t mow yet. If they’re mostly dry, you should be good to go.

In some cases, you have no choice but to mow the lawn while it’s wet – like when it rains for months on end without a break.

If you absolutely must cut wet grass, follow these tips to minimize the damage:

— Sharpen the mower blades right before mowing. Sharp blades are more likely to make a clean cut, and wet grass needs all the help it can get in that department.

— Raise the mower deck to higher than usual so the wet grass clippings are smaller and less likely to form large clumps.

— Discharge the grass clippings instead of mulching or bagging. Mulching doesn’t work well on wet grass, and the wet grass would get caked onto the inside of the bag.

— Stop and clean the underside of the mower periodically as you go so the blades don’t get too clogged and the layer of caked-on grass doesn’t get too thick.

The best time of day to mow your lawn is mid-morning, after the morning dew has dried but before the hottest part of the day.

Late afternoon, after the hottest part of the day has passed but before it gets dark out, is another good time to mow.

Lawn Striping Tips From Simplicity

No. Mowing after watering is just as bad as mowing after rain. See these other best lawn watering practices to make sure your lawn is never too wet or too dry.

Other wet grass issues

A lawn that stays wet consistently is a problem even if you don’t mow it. Problems caused by wet grass include:

Once you’ve handled your moisture problem and your grass is dry, let Lawn Love’s local lawn care pros do the mowing for you.

Main Photo Credit: Ansh Mishra | CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons