How to tension the chain on an electric saw

How to tension chain on electric chainsaw quickly and correctly

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A mobile wood cutting device is an indispensable attribute of almost every country house or private home. Power saws are particularly popular in this regard, enabling you to work outdoors as well as indoors. To keep the saw in good working order, the chain needs to be tightened or changed from time to time.

Checking compatibility

It is customary to change a saw chain if it is completely worn out and sharpening or repairing it is useless.

When you go to the store to buy a new part, you should arm yourself with the following recommendations:

  • When changing any part of your chainsaw, it is advisable to buy from the same manufacturer as the tool itself. That ensures the best fit.
  • It is important to consider the type of tasks to be performed. Chains in 3/8″ pitch are designed for heavy loads. If the saw is used infrequently, 0.325 inch is enough.
  • Tooth rake angle is important: cutting big volumes of dry wood is best done with cutting edges that have a rake angle of 30 degrees. For wet or frozen material a 10-degree angle of sharpening is better suited. The same applies to longitudinal sawing. a small sharpening angle in such cases greatly reduces the degree of wear of the cutting tool.
  • The chain length must be adjusted to the bar size.

Why the chain needs to be tightened?

The chain serves two purposes at the same time: it cuts the wood and fixes the bar by preventing it from moving. Correct chain tension and positioning of the chain ensures proper use of the chainsaw and avoids dangerous situations at work. If the saw headset is not installed correctly, it tends to fly off while sawing, injuring the operator. Even if it is loosened slightly, it gradually breaks the bar groove, causing the driven sprocket teeth to fail.

Excessive stress leads to higher load on the rotor, reducing the service life of the saw. That’s why it is important to check the tensioning at regular intervals and to re-tighten the tensioning mechanism on the housing if necessary.

Important! Sagging can be caused by worn components. Usually it is a tooth wear on the sprockets, a broken outer edge of the guide bar groove.

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Why the chain comes off the chainsaw or electric saw?

Owners of chain saws occasionally encounter a common problem. the chain starts to come off the chainsaw or electric saw. Why this is the case, we will explain later in this review.

There are only three main reasons the chain comes off:

Let’s take a look at why this or that problem occurs:

If the chain stretches, starts to sag, slips off the bar

The reason is most likely in the wear of the component itself. The chain has a finite life and is the most rapidly wearing working element of a chainsaw or electric saw. The metal is deformed because of the loads and therefore not only becomes blunt, but also becomes about 1 cm thick. longer than on a new tool. The easiest way is to change the part, i.e. to buy and install a new chain.

If there is a problem with the guide bar, it is in the place where it is fastened

This cause is quite common: in the groove located between the outer plate mounted on the chainsaw headset and the inner plate located on the body of the chainsaw or electric saw. The cover is usually bolted in place. This mount is called the engine assembly. The bar mount and the drive sprocket are covered with protective covers. When the bolts of the mounts loosen, the degree of vibration of the bar increases and the bar begins to move.

If the guide bar is good, the tensioning is good and so is the performance of the tool. If it is the bar that is causing the chain to stretch, reattach the bar and check the chainwheel.

Sprocket problem

If the drive sprocket is not properly secured, the chainsaw chain will also need tensioning because slack is unavoidable. Secure the sprocket to the tire by removing the engine guard, spark plugs, and pulling out the air filter. A stopper is placed in place of the spark plug, the main task of which is to secure the piston. Then use a special wrench or a universal wrench for angle grinder to turn the clutch disk in the clockwise direction.

Make sure that the piston is in the end position. if you look in the hole for the plug, the piston should be at the bottom.

After fixing the piston you can clamp the drive sprocket. Then all elements are assembled in reverse order.

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Installing and tensioning

In the standard case in order to put the chain on the saw correctly, you need to observe the following algorithm of actions:

  • even and spacious ground is prepared on which the bar and chain can easily be positioned during assembly.
  • Dismantle protection from the sprocket, by unscrewing the wing nut. On older models, for fixation is used a usual nut, which can be twisted with a ring spanner.
  • The tensioning sprocket located at the base of the guide turns to the right as far as it will go.
  • The chain links are slipped over the fixing groove one after the other. The installation is carried out on top of the rail with a slow twist.
  • The bar with the installed chain is mounted on the drive sprocket.
  • Then the cover cap is put in place, making sure that all mounting pins are properly seated in their seats.

At the end of the installation work it is necessary to check that the guide rails are in the installation slot and that the chain is firmly connected to the guide bar and saw without play.

Chain tensioning

For successful and fast cutting of lumber it is important to know not only how to put the chain on the chainsaw, but also how it is tensioned. The procedure is as follows

  • When the chain and guide bar are mounted on the saw, the chain guard nuts are loosened.
  • After that, the correct chain position is set by turning the adjusting screw.
  • Finally the nuts on the cover plate are tightened.

in correctly tuned condition, the chain should not pull away from the bar edge by more than 3-4 mm. over, if necessary. after operation, when replacing with a new one, after prolonged idle time. the chain tensioning can be corrected, by means of the above described algorithm.

When properly tensioned, the chain should deflect only 3 to 4 mm from the base Source

over, it must be remembered that during intensive work, the construction gets very hot due to friction. As a result, the metal links expand, the total length increases and the chain loosens and needs to be readjusted for tensioning.

Please note! When mounting the chain on the chainsaw, it is important to choose the right direction. the teeth should be placed so that the tip of their upper row (over the bar) faces away from the engine block, and the lower ones. vice versa, i.e. toward the drive sprocket.

Rules of choice

No matter how much the chain is ground and tensioned, sooner or later the life of the chain links will be exhausted and the chain must be replaced with a new one. When selecting a replacement, you should pay attention to the following criteria:

Main selective characteristic, directly influencing the efficiency of the device in given conditions. Is defined as the space between the tips of the working teeth. The bigger the pitch, the more productive the saw will be, but at the same time the more powerful the engine must be. Specified in inches.

There are the following basic patterns between these values:

  • 0,325. for motors with power not more than 3 liters. с.
  • 0,375. for amateur models with engine power up to 4 liters. с.
  • 0,404. designed for professional chainsaws with engine power from 5 liters. с.
  • 0,750. for very powerful special seldom used saws.

In most domestic applications, chains with a pitch of 0.325 and 0.375 are sufficient.

The second important parameter that allows you to choose the right chain for a chainsaw is the profile of the cutting tooth. There are 2 basic variants:

  • Chipper. The cross-sectional area of the tooth resembles the number “7. Its main feature is minimum contact with material during cutting. It allows you to increase the depth of the saw in one pass and increase productivity. Minus. the complex shape does not allow for self-sharpening.
  • Chipper. Most common. The profile of the cutting part has a rounded simple shape, making it easy to sharpen even with a file.
tension, chain, electric

Chisel chains are destined for professionals, when they need to complete large amount of work in a short time, but the chipper is more suitable for household purposes, especially, that no special tools are needed to sharpen its teeth.

This is determined by the thickness of the shank which slides in the groove on the guide. Structurally, the element has a smooth surface and holes for oil intake and tire lubrication.

They are differentiated by size into the following modifications:

  • 1,1 mm. fitted on standard saw models.
  • 1.3 and 1.5 mm. most common, suitable for semi-professional and professional models.
  • 1.6 and 2.0 mm. used on extremely powerful professional saws with high and continuous loads.

Depth of cut is the amount by which the cutting part sinks into the material in one pass. Determined by working tooth height and limiter. There are 2 versions. low profile at 0.635mm and high profile at 0.762mm.

There is a special people’s rating to determine the best chainsaws. It includes those manufacturing companies whose products the majority of consumers prefer to buy.

Chain setting

During use, especially on the impressive amount of work performed, the chain on the electric saw wears out and loosens. If it is not replaced in time, and the tension is then readjusted, it can be dangerous for the operator, for example, if it slips right off when you are sawing.

To mount the chain on the electric chain saw, you must take into account the characteristics of the chain, in particular the type of tensioning of the individual tool.

For side tensioning, the sequence of operations is as follows:

tension, chain, electric
  • Release the brake by pulling the carrier plate toward you until you hear a “click.
  • Use a screwdriver to unscrew the tensioning screw, loosening the chain tension. The jam nut will then turn freely.
  • Remove the old part. Open the sawblade compartment by lifting the cover on the housing and remove the chain from its guides (chain sprocket), the bar must also be removed. If the parts cannot be removed, the tensioning screw must be loosened further.

The change may seem complicated, but it ensures the reliability of the whole system compared to a tool with a quick-clamp chuck.

To change the saw element on electric saws with quick tensioning system you should follow this order:

  • Release tool from brake.
  • Open the handle nut until it locks.
  • Turn the wing nut counterclockwise. This part serves as both the cover lock and the guide bar clamp.
  • Slide the guide bar away from the guide bar and in the opposite direction. Release sprocket, remove old chain.
  • Install a new chain along the full length of the bar, starting with the chainwheel, so that the cutting edge is facing inward toward the body of the electric chain saw.
  • Adjust the tension using the guide rail adjustment.
  • When the sprocket cover is in place, do not tighten the wing nut.
  • Turn the tensioning wheel in the direction of the arrow on the housing, then tighten the wing nut.

The process of changing parts on a power saw with a wing nut is not time consuming, but allows you to quickly adjust the tension.

Models with 35 cm saw blade

The longer the blade, the thicker the saw. But all assemblies in the tool are interconnected and adapted to a certain load.

Introducing the Makita UC 3520A cross-motor chainsaw. Manufacturers do not recommend using the tool when cutting more than 15 cm, but users can take their chances, some have seen 35 cm.

When tightening the chain you should have a little slack at the bottom, about 1 cm, check by pulling with your fingers without effort.

The saw is well balanced, easy to grip. Saw damp and dry wood of medium density. The chain is adjusted very comfortably by turning the lamb and then clicking. During one hour of operation the oil consumption should be 200-300 ml. Small oil leakage in the off position can easily be repaired. But you must pay attention, the oil level is visible in the lower third and you need to refill. Chainsaw chain oil. What oil to use to lubricate your chainsaw chain?? Gasoline-powered saws are a popular tool for those who have to do countless household chores without the help of others. They are used for many purposes. to cut firewood, to cut off dry branches As annoying as it may sound, this device can be used for a long time.

The electric chainsaw is used for a large volume of carpentry and carpentry work wherever there is an electrical outlet nearby. Efficient work with it depends in many respects on how tight the chain is tensioned correctly on its bar, because if it is loose, the chain will fly off the bar while working, and if it is over tightened. it will create heavy load on drive sprocket and motor of the device. Here are a few practical tips on how to properly tension the chain on the bar of an electric saw, practically any Chinese model.

On one end of the guide bar there is a kerf and two holes on each side of the kerf. When installing the guide bar, it is slotted on the special pin on the body of the electric saw, and one of the holes is put on the pin of the tensioning mechanism.

The second hole on the bar is used to transfer the oil from the oil channel to the bar groove.

Chain tensioning The chain is tightened on the drive sprocket on the body of the saw, and on the sprocket at the end of the bar. when installing the chain, observe the correct direction of rotation, which is usually found on the product.

After the chain is mounted, the chain drive sprocket is covered with the cover, the clamping nut of which is not screwed all the way in to make sure the bar is not completely clamped.

Chain tensioning The chain tension on Chinese electric saws is adjusted by a special tensioning screw, the head of which has a slot for a screwdriver. It is located on the end of the body of the device. For more tensioning of the chain turn it clockwise.

Turn the tensioning screw until there is no more slack in the chain. After that you twist it by hand on the bar in the direction of the body of the electric saw. This is necessary in order to “straighten” the chain teeth in the bar groove.

If the chain has loosened after cranking, it is retightened again. Then the bar is taken by its free end, lifted up to the stop and in this position the slack in the chain is removed again.

As the last step, the clamping nut on the chain guard that covers the drive sprocket must be tightened all the way. The bar is held in a “raised” position. A correctly tensioned chain should come out of the guide bar groove on both sides by about 3-4mm and when lowered it should fit back into the groove.

How to tension the chain correctly on a chainsaw. How to tension the chain on a chainsaw

Almost every modern household today has an electric chain saw or chainsaw. Sooner or later most saw owners wonder how to maintain and operate it properly to keep the tool in good working order and without loosing its performance.

Most users show sufficient care for the engine, forgetting to pay attention to other important components of the chain saw, the good condition of which to a large extent depends on its performance and durability. Proper care of all chainsaw parts will save you money and extend the life of your device.

tension, chain, electric

Today we will talk about the chainsaw, which is made up of the drive sprocket, guide bar and chain. If these parts are working properly, it’s even more important to see how well the chainsaw performs than the engine. After all, it’s no secret. it’s not the motor that saws, but the chain put on the bar and driven by the drive sprocket. After a few weeks or months of use let’s see what surprises may be in store, and how to choose and service our chain saw components correctly.

How to put the chain on the saw?

In order to simplify the procedure of putting the chain on the saw, you need to use the set wheel. Next, put on according to the plan:

  • The surface on which the saw is mounted must be level;
  • Remove the sprocket guard from the chainsaw;
  • Turn the idler sprocket to the right as far as it will go;
  • Put the chain on the clamping piece. Be sure to observe safety precautions so as not to injure yourself during the operation;
  • Put both elements on the sprocket;
  • Reattach the cover;
  • Make sure the guides are in the right places;
  • Check the condition of the chain.

How to tension the chain correctly?

Install the chain and adjust its tension with your own hands without having to go to a service center, regardless of the class of chain saw, its age. Check each link completely before beginning work, since any slack may be due to worn gears or sprockets. STIHL 180, Husqvarna, Champion, Partner, and other models step by step how to tension them correctly:

  • place the tool on the table with its headset on top. unscrew the threaded fasteners of the protective cover, dismantle the bar and clean each element thoroughly (a vacuum cleaner or a cylinder with compressed air is convenient);
  • Determine correct chain position. The teeth should be on top, going in the opposite direction from the body;
  • put it directly on the bar. Secure the bolt mechanism, making sure there is sufficient clearance.

Use your chain saw after the chain has been tensioned

The electric chainsaw requires constant maintenance. Before starting, check that the power cord is in good condition, that the main working parts are in good condition, and that the bar and chain are worn.

To keep chain stretch to a minimum and keep the chain in good working order for an extended period, follow these guidelines:

  • Keep an eye on the lubricant level in the oil tank of your electric chainsaw and replenish the oil as necessary;
  • Hold the power tool level when you cut material without tilting it too far to the side;
  • when choosing consumables, give preference to quality chains of well-known brands, buy accessories with the correct pitch;
  • don’t let the chain wear out too much, change the consumables in time.

Check chain tension and adjust if necessary before beginning work. Chain tensioning is much easier in electric saws equipped with a tensioner, because no additional tools are needed for the adjustment and the process takes only a few minutes. If there is no tensioner, the work takes longer. Proper chain tensioning is essential for your power saw to work productively, efficiently and safely.

Advantages of working out a chain set

The chain and bar are part of the list of replacement equipment, so the sawyer can use several sets of different lengths and performance depending on the nature of the work. The average lifespan of a 3 saw chain is three times as long as a hard-wearing brand-name bar.

The cutting edges of the chain links need to be sharpened periodically. In the undeniable advantages of operating a multi-chain set are even wear on the drive sprocket and good compatibility with the chains included in the additional set.

Features of manual and mechanized sharpening

Dulling of the cutting edges of the saw chain manifests itself:

There are several types of chain sharpening attachments that can be used to restore the cutting performance of a chain.

The simplest variant is a bar-mounted holder complete with a set of special files, the other is a sharpening machine with a power drive. Both technologies have their own advantages and disadvantages.

Low-consumption, time-consuming manual chain sharpening keeps the chain in good working order. The mechanized method provides good performance, but the lack of an individual approach to each chain cutting link negatively affects its durability.

Makita UC3520A electric chainsaw

UC3520A, replace the chain, flip the wrong bar, and do the test again.

The electric sabre saw is another modern chainsaw model.

Check chain tightness after each installation or replacement. Insufficient securing of the part can lead to its popping off from the base of the bar and injuring a worker.

Check the tensioning value manually, before putting on gloves. It is worth bearing in mind that every chain changes its length when the tool is in use. This is the reason why chain sharpening has to be checked regularly.

Sharpening the chain at home

There are several indications that the chainsaw chain needs sharpening:

  • During the operation the bar “moves” sideways;
  • Sawing speed is noticeably slower;
  • The chips are needle-shaped and dusty (the sharpened teeth produce uniformly square chips).

Sharpening Rules

When you begin sharpening your chain saw cutters, you need to have an understanding of their construction, which consists of:

  • of the base of the link;
  • of the blade of the cutter;
  • of the depth of cut limiter;
  • The vertical blade;
  • The upper blade, arranged horizontally.

In order to give the chain maximum cutting power, the blades are ground at specific angles. The cutting capacity of the tool mainly depends on the front angle, the angle of the upper blade, and the angle of the sharpening.

The blade of the cutter should have a backward slope and form a rear angle. It is needed to deepen the top blade into the material.

tension, chain, electric

The back of the blade is ground to form the rear corner of the end blade. This angle is responsible for cutting the chip (lateral).

The cutting edge is responsible for forming the rake angle (60° to 85°). This is measured relative to the bottom of the link.

To give the angle to the back of the upper blade, the back of the. The angle can be between 50° and 60°.

The sharpening angle is measured at right angles to the bar.

The larger the cutting angle, the more productive the tool becomes. If this angle is reduced, the vibration will be notably reduced and the cutting process will be smoother.

Sharpening angle must be at most 35° and at least 25° if the tool is to be used for cross-cutting sawing. But this does not apply to longitudinal chains. They have a sharpening angle of 10°.

Each cutter has a stop that limits the depth at which the blade plunges into the wood.

The normal distance between the upper part of the blade and the stop should be between 0.5 and 0.8 mm.