Increase mower blade speed. Getting the Best Lawn Mower Cut Quality

Getting the Best Lawn Mower Cut Quality

Cutting the lawn has more purpose than making tall grass short. It’s about crafting landscapes that bring pride, landscapes that host parties and landscapes that literally work for you. By delivering superior cut quality for your clients, your reputation as a sharp landscaper will help retain current clients and be a selling point for new ones.

Read the following tips to learn how to get the sharpest looking landscapes. On a zero turn lawn mower, there are both adjustments and techniques landscapers can make and perform to ensure a smooth, even and appealing result with each mowing.

Adjust lawn mow​​​er deck pitch

Fine tuning a mower deck enables the aerodynamic design of the cutting chamber to lift grass, cut it evenly and discharge it effectively.

What is mowe​​​r deck pitch?

Lawn mower deck pitch, or sometimes referred to as, rake, is the tilt of the mower deck from front to back. Forward deck pitch creates an air seal at the front of the deck when the blades are rotating. This seal limits air entry into the cutting chamber to the rear of the deck, allowing the aerodynamic design of a Gravely lawn mower deck to maximize grass lift and cut evenly. This design results in a superior cut quality and an even discharge that’s less likely to clump.

For most effective results, a lawn mower deck should have a pitch, or height difference of 1/8-inch to 1/2-inch between the front of the deck to the back of the deck. Naturally, this makes the sweet spot about 1/4-inch of pitch, depending on the mower model. In any case, the front of the deck should be pitched lower than the deck rear. Be careful not to pitch too much that you start scalping lawns.

How to adjust l​​awn mower pitch

All Gravely decks are built so their owners can adjust deck pitch quickly and easily. There’s no special tools or mechanical training required to complete this procedure, either. Just a couple wrenches and a few pieces of hardware. Before you begin, park the mower on a flat, level surface, stop the engine, remove the key, check that the tire pressures are equal and grab a tape measure.

Check ​pitch

As directed in the operator’s manual:

• Raise the mower deck to a cutting height of 3.5 inches.
• Manually and carefully turn the blades so they’re positioned front to back. When manually turning blades, always grab the dull edge of the blade.
• Measure:
• The distances between the front tips of the outer blades and the ground.
• ​The distances between the rear tips of the outer blades and the ground.
• If front measurements are lower than the rear measurements by less than 1/8 inch or more than 1/2 inch, adjust pitch.

Adjust pitch

Deck pitch can be adjusted by lowering the front of the deck, raising the rear of the deck or a combination of both. Be sure to make adjustments so that the distances of your final measurements at the front of the deck accurately reflect the cutting height of 3.5 inches that was set earlier.

​​T​​o lower the high side of deck:

• Loosen jam nuts against deck lift links.
• Turn adjustment bolts counterclockwise.
• Retake measurements and continue adjustment, if necessary.
• Tighten jam nuts against deck lift links.

To raise the low side of deck:

• Loosen jam nuts against deck lift links.
• Turn adjustment bolts clockwise.
• Retake measurements and continue adjustment, if necessary.
• Tighten jam nuts against deck lift links.​

After pitch adjustment is complete, check deck level.​

Leveling yo​​ur mower deck

Level the mower deck to ensure grass cutting height is even across the width of the deck. This will help ensure a smooth and seamless side-by-side blend between each row of freshly cut grass.

What is lawn mower deck leveling?

This is easier to understand than deck pitch. Deck leveling is simply making the cutting height on the left side of the deck even with the cutting height on the right side of the deck. In all cases, decks should be level with as little variance between each side of the cutting deck as possible. No variance between the left and right side of the deck is best.​

How to level the mower deck​

Leveling a Gravely lawn mower deck is done the same way as pitching a Gravely mower deck, except it’s adjusting the deck height from side to side, not back to front. Same components and tools with pitching a mower deck, and as before, start with the unit parked on a flat, level surface, inflate the tires to specification and grab a tape measure.​

Check mower deck level​​

As directed in the operator’s manual:

• Raise the mower deck to a cutting height of 3.5 inches.
• While wearing thick, sturdy gloves, manually and carefully turn the blades so they’re positioned side to side. When manually turning blades, always grab the dull edge of the blade.
• Measure:
• The distance between the left blade’s left cutting edge and the ground.
• The distance between the right blade’s right cutting edge and the ground.
• If the distance between the left blade tip and the ground is 3/16 inches greater than or less than the distance between the right blade tip and the ground, level the deck.

How to level your la​wn mower deck

As directed in the operator’s manual

• Loosen jam nuts against deck lift links.
• Turn adjustment bolts counterclockwise.
• Retake measurements and continue adjustment, if necessary.
• Tighten jam nuts against deck lift links.

• Loosen jam nuts against deck lift links.
• Turn adjustment bolts clockwise.
• Retake measurements and continue adjustment, if necessary.
• Tighten jam nuts against deck lift links.

How to sharpen lawn ​mower blades

Same as with dull knives or scissors – they don’t cut efficiently and results in duplicate effort. On a mower, dull blades leave behind stragglers and require the terribly inefficient practice of mowing the same rows twice.

Dull blades may require a total replacement, which isn’t bad since new blades are relatively cheap and easy to replace. However, if the blades aren’t worn too far, they can be sharpened without spending money on new blades. Be aware that blades should not be sharpened if more than a half-inch of the blade material is worn away (by previous sharpening or wear) or if the air lift is eroded. If the air lift is eroded, blades can no longer lift grass effectively and cut evenly. Blades that are bent or broken should be discarded.

• Read the safety instructions and the procedure instructions in the unit’s operator’s manual.
• Remove the mower deck according to the instructions in the operator’s manual.
• Remove the blades according to the instructions in the operator’s manual.
• File or grind an equal amount of blade material from each cutting edge until sharp. Do not change angle of cutting edge or round the corner of the blade.
• Slide the blade onto an unthreaded bolt and hold the bolt horizontally. Position the blade horizontally and check for blade balance. This is critical. If the blade moves, sharpen the heavy end until the blade remains balanced in a horizontal position on the unthreaded bolt.
• When the blade is sharpened and balanced adequately, reinstall it under the mower deck and torque it to the specification listed in the operator’s manual.
• Reinstall the mower deck.

Cleaning your mo​​wer d​​eck

Mower decks packed with grass clippings, dirt and debris can damage your mower, affect cut quality and hurt lawns. Grass, dirt and debris holds moisture that corrodes bare metal on the spindles and mower blades, weakening them. Additionally, grass-packed cutting decks can harbor fungi and bacteria that can spread to other lawns and damage them.

Grass buildup around the discharge area can prevent clippings from discharging evenly and could lead to clumping. Grass buildup under the deck can also affect the aerodynamics of the cutting chamber, disrupt the air lift under the deck (detailed in What is mower deck pitch?) and affect the cut quality.

Good lawn mo​​​wi​​ng techniques

Sometimes, getting a better cut quality can be achieved by breaking a few bad habits like mowing too fast, mowing in the same pattern and cutting grass too short.

Why you shouldn’t mow t​​oo fast

For busy landscapers, efficiency is important. And while landscapers will find many creative ways to shave time off each job, patience on the jobsite yields better results. Driving faster than the mower blades and deck can process overwhelms the deck and leaves behind stragglers and clumping. Slowing down the drive speed of a mower allows the blades enough time to lift, cut and discharge grass clippings evenly.

Why you should mow ​​in different patterns

After mowing the same properties, landscapers will learn the best way to navigate through their clients’ properties and will sometimes stick to one efficient mowing pattern. However, mowing in the same pattern is bad for lawns.

Grass is like hair. If it’s accustomed to being pushed in the same direction, it learns which way to fall. After mowing in the same paths cut after cut, grass falls to one direction and doesn’t stand straight up, making it more difficult for the mower to lift the grass and cut it evenly.

Additionally, mowing in the same pattern creates ruts. The weight of a mower driving over the same rows with each mowing causes the soil under a mower’s wheels to become compacted. As soil compacts, it restricts water, air and nutrients from reaching grass roots, leading to grass discoloration in those mower tracks.

To avoid these issues, landscapers should mow in a different pattern that crisscrosses the pattern of the previous mowing.

Why you shouldn’t cu​​t grass too short

Grass that’s kept longer grows healthier.

Grass that’s cut too short becomes stressed because it uses its energy re-growing what was just cut instead of growing its root system. Longer grass makes healthier lawns because longer grass has deeper root systems which access moisture and nutrients more effectively. Additionally, longer grass helps prevent the ability for weeds to take hold in the soil and germinate because tall grass blocks sunlight from those weeds.

Landscapers should cut no more than one-third of the length of grass with each mowing.

Best mowers for good cu​​t ​​quality

Performing service and adjustments on any lawn mower makes a big difference in cut quality, but you’ll never get the best cutting quality without having the right equipment. Consumers have numerous choices in a commercial lawn mower, but they’re not built alike.

Gravely commercial lawn mowers are designed for landscapers. Not only is a Gravely durable, reliable and comfortable, but each Gravely is designed to deliver superior cutting results.

Strong de​​ck stability

As opposed to decks that shake excessively when cutting, Gravely decks are sturdy and move with the contours of each landscape, ensuring an even cut.

Cutting deck di​​mensions

The deep depth of a fully fabricated Gravely commercial mower deck processes greater volumes of grass faster with reduced need to compromise speed for quality on the jobsite.

Superior deck aero​​dynamics

Grass is lifted and discharged evenly and effectively, meaning there’s less chance for stragglers and clumping.

Constant belt tension

Gravely’s trademarked constant belt tension, or CBT, applies the same tension to a brand new mower belt than it does to an older, stretched mower belt. This ensures consistent blade tip speed and cutting results throughout the life of the belt, even as it wears.​

Lawn mowe​​​r dealers near me

Ready to learn more about the machines that have been shaping the American landscape for over a century? Stop by your local Gravely dealer to explore Gravely’s full product lineup and to get replacement parts like belts, blades and more. Add a Gravely lawn striper kit this season to enhance each lawn by giving it that professional, finished look.​

How To Adjust Speed on a Self-Propelled Mower: Am I Missing a Step?

It can be outright frustrating operating a mower that proves a little tricky to handle. No one has the time to be stuck hopelessly fiddling with their machine in the middle of a mowing session on a hot sunny day. Sometimes, succumbing to the problem will even be much easier to do since all you have to do is run after your machine like a pissed-off goose for the sake of achieving a nicely cut yard.

In most cases, this puny problem is faced by people who are getting familiar with self-propelled mowers or people who have gotten a new brand, so changing the speed can be met with slight resistance from the machine. Worry not because this article is here with the easiest instructions to help you overcome the dilemma. I will be explaining the step-by-step procedure for changing the speed of your machine, including other possible reasons why your self-propelled mower doesn’t move as slow or as fast as you would have it.

Here are 7 steps to help you adjust your self-propelled mower speed:

Step 1: Find a Nice, Flat Surface

You wouldn’t find your “tempo fixing” effective if your self-propelled mower is tilted or unstable. Since you’re dealing with speed, the first thing to do is remove any speed-affecting filters out of the way to warrant a much more accurate result of your highly renowned engineering skills!

Step 2: Allow Your Self-Propelled Mower to Catch Some Cool Air

The mower needs to be cool and calm to properly outcome the adjustments. You would need a fresh start to fully understand the whys and hows of your procedure just in case the problem is more than you anticipated. Let’s say a drive belt problem or something to do with the transmission. Letting your mower cool before getting all handy and crafty will tick off all the protocols for much better clarity.

Step 3: Does Your Mower Have a Throttle Lever?

Some highly advanced self-propelled mowers do not have throttle levers, and the function is replaced by a knob for regulating the transmission of the machine.

If your mower has a throttle lever, you’ll find it close to the bail lever shaped like a cute little “T” or a little door handle.

Now, place the throttle lever on the Choke Position for this step.

Otherwise, if you find a transmission knob, all you have to do is loosen this knob and pull the cable towards you to increase speed, and away from you to decrease speed. Tighten the knob after this adjustment to seal the deal. You may have to try the knob adjustment a couple of times to find a sweet spot that will alleviate the problem– and just like that, your self-propelled mower is fixed.

Step 4: Turn The Engine On

Pull the mower start-engine cord, turn on the switch, press the key, or ask the machine politely– whatever would start the engine should do.

Step 5: Move The Throttle Lever To The Desired Position

As soon as the mower is turned on, remove the throttle lever from the choke position to the estimated spot of the speed you want. The throttle goes all the way to the max to increase speed and can be pulled away from the max to reduce speed.

Step 6: Adjust The Blade Speed

There’s a rocket button for blade speed engagement. All you have to do is press the far end away from you to engage the blades, and press the opposite direction to disengage. Turn the blades on before propelling the machine.

Step 7: Push The Mower Drive Clutch To Propel The Mower

After engaging the blade speed, push the drive clutch to move the mower forward. The drive clutch will become highly proportional to the amount of force you place on it after following this step-by-step rule.

On some high-grade self-propelled mowers, there’s a speed lever clutch to regulate the speed of the machine– all you have to do is tighten your grip accordingly. These steps only apply if you are just getting to use the machine and are a little confused about the controls and how to maneuver the mower.

“I Have Followed The Steps and Nothing’s Changed!”- Here’s Your Plan B:

In most cases, the speed is proportional to the movements of the drive clutch. So, if you’re facing speed problems – maybe your mower is too slow or too fast for comfort – it could be because of other reasons other than the control system. Read on to see 5 good in-depth tips to adjust your self-propelled mower’s speed!

The governor spring is a linkage between the governor arm and the throttle control. If you’re wondering what the governor is, it is simply an arm that controls the opening and closing of the carburetor, thereby influencing the amount of fuel that goes into the engine and the relative speed of the engine.

If your battery has run out of bars, there is no way your mower will ride on as you expect it to. If your self-propelled mower is new and you suspect battery problems, make sure to return it for a replacement as soon as you can. You can tell this if your engine throws a fit before it cranks, or if it cranks rather slowly for a reasonable rate.

If the cutting blade of the self-propelled mower is blunt or bent at a suspicious angle, the speed of the machine will be affected. This could either affect the blade speed itself, or the effectiveness of cutting grass.

Clogging is a common problem for mowers with the choke operation. It is normal for combustion engines to get overpowered by the little amounts of fuel needed to start up the engine. In most cases, the fuel isn’t quite the right blend for your mower and sooner than you expect, the problems start to surface.

This will take a toll on the combustion as residues that were ideally meant to be burned out get trapped in valves and grooves of segments choking and clogging the engine. There’s no guessing what would follow asides from the negative impact the problem would have on the effectiveness and speed of your mower.

To avoid or better the situation, pay a visit to your dealer for a proper check of your machine; they will easily figure out if you’re using the wrong fuel blend or if your engine is clogged.

The Much-Needed Conclusion

Adjusting the speed of your self-propelled mower could easily be the best or worst-case scenario. From simple steps to grave problems that wouldn’t look so fun to fix. The best place to start is the step-by-step guide, but even if that works for you I would still suggest you make a good general check-up of your machine. You really couldn’t tell– who knows what secrets your mower is hiding? I doubt you’d love to find out too late.

EL Mehdi (Medi), the founder and voice behind Desired Lawn Mower. He is a riding mower lover and has been active in the industry for years. He’s also an entrepreneur who owns and manages multiple helpful websites.

The Best Zero-Turn Mowers of 2023

These achieve the rare feat of making lawn mowing fun.

By Roy Berendsohn Published: Mar 1, 2023

When it comes to yard work, zero turn mowers do the impossible. They make lawn mowing fun. They accomplish this by putting unprecedented speed, control and maneuverability at the disposal of the person mowing the lawn. The so-called “zero turn” feature of these mowers converts a grass cutting machine into something akin to an amusement park ride. You steer the machine with two levers—the left lever controls the left wheel, the right lever the right wheel. With that steering setup, you can zoom over the landscape cutting straight lines, curves, or pivot the mower into and out of a corner. What’s not to like?

Read on to understand how these agile grass cutters work, how we go about testing them, and see some candidates that we’ve recently tested as well as some that we haven’t but that we think look particularly promising.

How Zero-Turn Mowers Work

A zero-turn riding mower consists of an operator platform, a frame and wheels, an engine (or battery bank), transmissions (or motors), and a pair of control levers commonly known as lap bars. In gas mowers, the engine powers a pulley system. One group of pulleys drives the blades, another group powers a pair of transmissions–one at each rear wheel. When you move the lap bar forward or back, you are directing the transmission to go faster, slower, or even turn the opposite way. When one drive wheel turns clockwise and the other counter clockwise, the mower pivots. When the wheels rotate at different rates, the mower turns in an arc-shaped path. When the lap bars are in the neutral position, the mower stops. Aside from a parking brake, there’s no other braking mechanism. Battery-powered zero-turn mowers work the same way, but have separate motors to drive the rear wheels and one for each blade inside the mower deck.

When it comes to transmission, most mowers have a Hydrogear EZT—a well-known and cost-effective residential-grade transaxle with a reputation for durability.

Some mowers use a deck stamped from one piece of steel, others use a deck fabricated from multiple pieces and welded together. A fabricated deck can be built from thicker steel at a lower cost than it would be able to be built otherwise. Once you’re talking about stamping metal as thick as 10 gauge (about 1⁄8 inch thick), the cost of stamping such a deck would push up the mower’s price beyond what most people are willing to pay. The decks in the mowers below range from 42 to 52 inches, a typical size in this class of product. When powered by these engines and the Hydrogear, these mowers will deliver a decent cut quality at their rated top speed of 7 mph. Note, however, that cut quality declines steeply if you maintain that speed in very thick grass or on uneven terrain.

As to the electric mowers, they represent the leading edge of the technology in this category. These are remarkable and expensive mowers powered by large-voltage lithium-ion batteries. If you’re interested in reducing mowing noise and simplifying your maintenance routine by eliminating gas and oil, they’re worth a look.

Selecting a Zero-Turn Mower

Everyone would like to select the biggest possible zero-turn mower with the hope of whittling a big grass cutting job down to size as quickly as possible. Reality usually intercedes because these machines are expensive and the wide range of options available today quickly drive up the cost. Roughly speaking, you start somewhere in the range of a mower with a 42-inch deck costing in the vicinity of 3200 to 3500 and move up in increments of 1000 to 1500 until you reach entry-level commercial-grade equipment that costs 7000 to 8000.

Again, speaking in terms of approximation, a mower with a 42-inch deck will cut a two-acre lot (that takes into account that the house, driveway, outbuildings and various landscape features are taking up some of that space). Use a mower with a larger deck to cut anything over two acres. But here’s the caveat. That entry-level ZTR mower (3200, say) with a 42-inch deck will wear out faster and need more maintenance than a mower with a 50-inch deck, a heavier frame, larger engine and higher quality transmissions, and thicker deck with more robust blade spindles, costing 4500.

In the simplest possible terms, you can cut a smaller area with a larger mower and expect more longevity out of the machine (not to mention a nicer mowing experience) or you can cut a larger area with a smaller machine and encounter more maintenance and a mowing experience that will be, we might say, a bit more rugged.

But there are still other factors to consider, in selecting a mower other than deck size and your budget. Larger mowers take more space in a garage or outbuilding. And a mower with a 50-inch or even 60-inch deck, as useful as it might be in getting the job done more quickly, may not fit through a fence’s gate, and it might be more difficult to maneuver in tight spots without creating scalp marks on the lawn from a lot of close-quarter pivoting.

Carefully consider all these factors when shopping for a mower: your budget, maintenance and whether you will perform that work yourself, mowing speed and time, maneuverability and trimming in tight areas, the importance that you place on your comfort while mowing, cut quality, longevity, storage, and access to the landscape.

How We Select and Test

There’s only one way to test a mower, and that’s to cut grass with it. But we also do more than mow.

We raise and lower the deck and adjust the seat. We look at service point access (the air filter, the spark plug, and the oil filter) and how easy it is to remove the deck. We mow approximately an acre with each mower, considering cut and mulching quality while running uphill, downhill, across washboard, and along sidehills. (On sidehills, we’ll mow surfaces pitched up to approximately 20 degrees; manufacturers generally recommend not going steeper than 10 degrees, but we like to be thorough.) We evaluate power and speed relative to cut quality—we investigate whether the mower delivers a decent cut mowing at full speed. When mowing in damp conditions, we look at whether the mower’s tires accumulate grass and how effectively it discharges moist clippings. Finally, we test maneuverability (these machines are, generally, very nimble) and how readily they come to a stop when you back off the lap bar control levers.

The LawnmowerBlade that cuts itself sharp

Any landscaping professional knows that sharper mower blades make for sharper-looking lawns, but blades that maintain their sharpness can also improve a lawn-care business’s on-site efficiency and cut its maintenance costs.

Mowing lawns with LaserEdge® Eversharp™ blades means minimal maintenance and downtime associated with blade sharpening, increasing overall uptime and profits.

Redefining the Cutting Edge

High-quality, hardened steel blades equipped with the LaserEdge® Eversharp™ technology on their cutting edges have demonstrated their toughness and durability in field tests, even in the most abrasive conditions.

In one test, the LaserEdge® Eversharp™ cutting edge withstood 30 hours in severe sand conditions and became sharper during use. In a highly controlled durability test, the blade’s advanced technology performed remarkably, enduring multiple impacts from a 1-inch steel stake traveling at more than 200 mph.

Hours of Toughness

In an intense 50-hour field test in central Florida, mower blades with LaserEdge® Eversharp™ technology proved they “cut themselves sharp” when a new cutting edge emerged as the blade wore down.

In the test, a brand-new mower blade had LaserEdge technology applied on one cutting edge and was left untreated on the other edge. After putting the blade to work for 50 hours, the results were clear. The LaserEdge cutting edge was still sharp, and the untreated side was dulled and worn away.

Results will vary based on grass type, soil type and condition, and geographical region.

Cutting Costs, Boosting Bottom Lines

Increased Fuel Efficiency

Dull blades produce resistance, putting strain on the mower deck and making it difficult to maintain speed and efficiency. Mowing with a dull blade can reduce fuel economy by as much as 22 percent, which increases operating costs and reduces productivity.

Healthier, Greener Lawns

A dull blade shreds and tears grass, leaving it vulnerable to dehydration, browning, and disease. LaserEdge® blades cut grass cleanly, making it easier to deliver high-quality lawn care and in-demand enhancements such as lawn striping.

Blades Stay Sharp Longer

In abrasive conditions, a blade can get dull in as little as four hours, and lawn-care operations can go through dozens of blades a week, resulting in downtime and lost revenue. No matter the environment, a LaserEdge blade “cuts itself sharp,” reducing time spent sharpening.

Less Mower Maintenance

Blade replacement can be a dangerous undertaking. Attacking a dulled edge with a makeshift sharpening tool can irreversibly damage a blade and put workers in danger. LaserEdge blades dramatically reduce the frequency and risk of blade sharpening.

D.H. Steinegger, R.C. Shearman, T.P. Riordan and E.J. Kinbacher, “Mower Blade Sharpness Effects on Turf,” in Agronomy Journal 75 (1983): 479–480.

Savings Calculator

See how much you can save with LaserEdge® Eversharp™ lawnmower blades.

• 432 Saved on Fuel Cost
• 1575 Saved on Blade Sharpenings
• 2625 Additional Revenue Opportunity
• ( 960 ) Premium Spent on LaserEdge Blades

Calculations above are based off the following: type of lawn mower: 3-blade, 60-inch cut, gas-powered. Average gas price: 2.38. Lawn mower blade pricing: standard blade is 16. Average cost of sharpening: 5 per blade. Fuel savings: 11%. Blade removal and re-installation time: 30 minutes.

Frequently Asked Questions

How does LaserEdge ® Eversharp™ maintain a cutting edge that “cuts itself sharp”?

The LaserEdge Eversharp technology is applied to the underside of the cutting edge. As the blade cuts grass, the original blade material begins to wear away and exposes a new LaserEdge cutting edge, which is even sharper than the blade’s original sharpness.

Will I need to sharpen my LaserEdge ® Eversharp™ lawnmower blades?

LaserEdge blades “cut themselves sharp” and require minimal sharpening, but you should monitor cutting-edge wear. Sharpening is only needed if the new LaserEdge cutting edge is not presenting itself.

If I find the need to sharpen my LaserEdge ® Eversharp™ mower blades, how do I do so?

If you choose to re-sharpen your LaserEdge blade, do so in a safe, controlled setting with the proper equipment. Remember to prep the machine and remove the spark plug before removing the blade. Secure the blade to a work surface with a vise or clamp, and sharpen the blade with a file, bench grinder, or professional blade grinder. Ensure the blade is evenly sharpened and balanced before remounting on the mower deck.

How often will I need to change my LaserEdge Eversharp™ lawnmower blades?

The LaserEdge blade is designed to “cut itself sharp” and requires minimal sharpening over its life. The overall life of the blade will vary due to conditions, but its lifespan should be at least as long as a standard blade’s. In several of our tests, we found LaserEdge blades had longer lives.

How do LaserEdge ® Eversharp™ lawn mower blades perform in abusive mowing conditions?

The LaserEdge technology is an extremely hard, wear-resistant material. If you mow in conditions that regularly include rocks, curbs, out-cropping stones, and other hard objects, LaserEdge lawn mower blades may not be suitable for your operation.

A good test to see if LaserEdge is right for your operation is to inspect your worn blades. Worn blades that show excessive gouging, deep gashes, or large scraps may not see all the benefits of LaserEdge.

How long will it take for LaserEdge ® Eversharp™ to take effect?

This is highly dependent on geography, soil type, and cutting conditions. The magic of LaserEdge happens when the base blade material wears away at a faster rate than the harder, more wear-resistant LaserEdge material. In highly abrasive soil conditions (like sand), we have experienced standard blades wearing out in as few as 50 hours with blade sharpenings occurring as frequently as every 4 to 8 hours. In these areas, LaserEdge began exhibiting self-sharpening in as little as 5 to 10 hours. When using LaserEdge, these blades required no sharpening over the entire life of the blade. In less abrasive conditions, LaserEdge technology will take effect but over a longer time period.

How much do LaserEdge ® Eversharp™ lawn mower blades cost?

The price of LaserEdge blades will vary depending on the OEM and blade configuration. Although the LaserEdge will typically be more expensive than a standard blade, the benefits of consistently having a sharp cutting edge and increased uptime surpass the increase in blade price (see Savings Calculator).

Where can I purchase LaserEdge ® Eversharp™ lawnmower blades?

Most lawn mower Original Equipment Manufacturers (OEMs) are currently in the process of adding LaserEdge to their product line-ups. Be sure to talk to your local dealer about LaserEdge.

How do I get more information on LaserEdge ® Eversharp™ blades?

Fill out the contact form at the bottom of this page, and Fisher Barton will email you updates on product availability and news.

Get LaserEdge® For Your Business

Ready to bring this cost-effective, state-of-the-art mower blade technology to your lawn-care business? LaserEdge blades are currently available through select OEMs.

Available for the following brands through their independent dealers: (Click on the logo for information on available part numbers)

Connect With An Expert

We’re here to help and would love the opportunity to discuss your technical questions or application challenges.