John deere mower old. 9 Fixes For When Your Lawn Mower Won’t Start

There are a number of reasons, mechanical and otherwise, why a mower won’t run. The good news is that fixing most all of the issues is easy enough for a DIYer to handle.

By Tony Carrick and Manasa Reddigari | Updated Aug 8, 2022 4:03 PM

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Lawn care can be tedious, but once the grass starts growing in the spring, mowing becomes a fact of life in most neighborhoods. When you finally muster the strength to tackle that first cut of the season, there are few sounds as disheartening as that of a lawn mower engine that turns over but doesn’t start.

Before you drag the mower in for repairs or invest in costly replacement parts, first make sure that a clogged air filter, soiled spark plug, damaged safety cable, clogged mowing deck, or contaminated gas isn’t to blame. Work through the following steps, and you may be able to get your puttering grass guzzler up and running again in no time.

A lawn mower repair professional can help. Get free, no-commitment repair estimates from pros near you.

Change the lawn mower carburetor filter.

Your lawn mower’s air filter guards the carburetor and engine from debris like grass clippings and dirt. When the air filter becomes clogged or too dirty, it can prevent the engine from starting. To keep this from happening, replace paper filters—or clean or replace foam filters—after every 25 hours of engine use.

The process for removing the filter depends on whether you are operating a riding or walk-behind lawn mower. For a riding mower, turn off the engine and engage the parking brake; for a walk-behind mower, pull the spark plug wire from the plug. Then, lift the filter from its housing.

The only choice for paper filters is replacement. If you’re cleaning a foam filter, wash it in a solution of hot water and detergent to loosen grime. Allow it to dry completely, and then wipe fresh motor oil over the filter, replace it in its housing, and power up the mower—this time to the pleasant whirring of an engine in tip-top condition.

Check the spark plug.

Is your lawn mower still being stubborn? The culprit may be the spark plug, which is responsible for creating the spark that ignites the fuel in the engine. If it’s loosened, disconnected, or coated in water or carbon residue, the spark plug may be the cause of your machine’s malfunction.

Locate the spark plug, often found on the front of the mower, and disconnect the spark plug wire, revealing the plug beneath. Use a socket wrench to unscrew the spark plug and remove it.

Check the electrode and insulator. If you see buildup, spray brake cleaner onto the plug, and let it soak for several minutes before wiping it with a clean cloth. Reinstall the spark plug, first by hand, and then with a socket wrench for a final tightening. If the problem persists, consider changing the spark plug.

Clear the mower deck of debris.

The mower’s deck prevents grass clippings from showering into the air like confetti, but it also creates a place for them to collect. Grass clippings can clog the mower deck, especially while mowing a wet lawn, preventing the blade from turning.

If the starter rope seems stuck or is difficult to pull, then it’s probably due to a clogged deck. With the mower safely turned off, tip it over onto its side and examine the underbelly. If there are large clumps of cut grass caught between the blade and deck, use a trowel to scrape these clippings free. When the deck is clean again, set the mower back on its feet and start it up.

Clear the vent in the lawn mower fuel cap.

The mower started just fine, you’ve made the first few passes, then all of a sudden the mower quits. You pull the cord a few times, but the engine just sputters and dies. What’s happening? It could have something to do with the fuel cap. Most mowers have a vented fuel cap. This vent is intended to release pressure, allowing fuel to flow from the tank to the carburetor. Without the vent, the gas fumes inside the tank begin to build up, creating a vacuum that eventually becomes so strong that it stops the flow of fuel.

To find out if this is the problem, remove the gas cap to break the vacuum, then reattach it. The mower should start right up. But if the lawn mower won’t stay running and cuts off again after 10 minutes or so, you’ll need to get a new gas cap.

Clean and refill the lawn mower fuel tank.

An obvious—and often overlooked—reason your mower may not be starting is that the tank is empty or contains gas that is either old or contaminated with excess moisture and dirt. If your gas is more than a month old, use an oil siphon pump to drain it from the tank.

(It’s important to be careful as spilled oil can cause smoking, but there are other reasons this might happen. Read more about what to do when your lawn mower is smoking.)

Add fuel stabilizer to the tank.

Fill the tank with fresh fuel and a fuel stabilizer to extend the life of the gas and prevent future buildup. A clogged fuel filter is another possible reason for a lawn mower not to start. When the filter is clogged, the engine can’t access the gas that makes the system go. If your mower has a fuel filter (not all do), check to make sure it’s functioning properly.

First, remove the fuel line at the carburetor. Gas should flow out. If it doesn’t, confirm that the fuel shutoff valve isn’t accidentally closed. Then remove the fuel line that’s ahead of the fuel filter inlet. If gas runs out freely, there’s a problem with the fuel filter. Consult your owner’s manual for instructions on replacing the filter and reassembling the mower.

Inspect the safety release mechanism cable.

Your lawn mower’s reluctance to start may have nothing to do with the engine at all but rather with one of the mower’s safety features: the dead man’s control. This colorfully named safety bar must be held in place by the operator for the engine to start or run. When the bar is released, the engine stops. While this mechanism cuts down on the likelihood of horrific lawn mower accidents, it also can be the reason the mower won’t start.

The safety bar of a dead man’s control is attached to a metal cable that connects to the engine’s ignition coil, which is responsible for sending current to the spark plug. If your lawn mower’s engine won’t start, check to see if that cable is damaged or broken. If it is, you’ll need to replace it before the mower will start.

Fortunately, replacing a broken control cable is an easy job. You may, however, have to wait a few days to get the part. Jot down the serial number of your lawn mower, then head to the manufacturer’s website to order a new cable.

Check to see if the flywheel brake is fully engaged.

The flywheel helps to make the engine work smoothly through inertia. When it isn’t working properly, it will prevent the mower’s engine from working.

If it is fully engaged, it can make a mower’s pull cord hard to pull. Check the brake pad to see if it makes full contact with the flywheel and that there isn’t anything jamming the blade so the control lever can move freely.

If the flywheel brake’s key sheared, the mower may have run over something that got tangled in the blade. It is possible to replace a flywheel key, but it does require taking apart the mower.

Look out for signs that the mower needs professional repairs.

While repairing lawn mowers can be a DIY job, there are times when it can be best to ask a professional to help repair a lawn mower. If you’ve done all of the proper mower maintenance that is recommended by the manufacturer, and gone through all of the possible ways to fix the mower from the steps above, then it may be best to call a pro. Here are a few signs that indicate when a pro’s help is a good idea.

• You see black smoke. The engine will benefit from a technician’s evaluation, as it could be cracked or something else might be worn out.
• Excessive oil or gas usage. If you’ve changed the spark plugs, and done all of the other maintenance tasks, and the mower is consuming more than its usual amount of oil or gas, consult a professional for an evaluation.
• The lawn mower is making a knocking sound. When a lawn mower starts making a knocking sound, something could be bent or out of alignment. It may be tough to figure this out on your own, so a pro could help.
• A vibrating or shaking lawn mower can be a sign of a problem beyond a DIY fix. Usually something is loose or not aligning properly.

How to Start a John Deere Lawnmower, Step by Step

John Deere is one of the most popular brands of tractor-type lawnmowers. Their trademark green-yellow lawn tractors are suitable for small, medium, and big yards because they range from 18 horsepower to 450 horsepower. The company has an ever-increasing and wide base of customers. Some new lawnmower owners are not experts and are unaware of various lawnmower procedures-as basic as how to start the mower. If you are a new owner of a John Deere lawnmower and don’t know how to start it, or even an older owner who doubts about the correct starting procedure, this blog will help you. It will cover the needed steps on how to start a John Deere lawnmower correctly.

How to start a John Deere lawnmower, step by step:

• Step 1: Prestart checks
• Step 2: Push the brake pedal and unlock the mower’s parking brake
• Step 3: Move the throttle lever into the choke position for a cold mower or half-speed position for a warm mower
• Step 4: Turn and hold the key to the start position for 5 seconds
• Step 5: After the engine starts, let the key run to its initial position
• Step 6: Let the engine run at half speed before you start operating the mower

There are various models of John Deere lawn tractors and riding mowers, but the starting procedure for all of them is almost the same, except for slightly different locations of components and parts. You can get accurate info about these locations from the manufacturer’s manual or the tractor body’s labels.

The starting procedure of a John Deere lawnmower is quite simple and can be performed in some minutes. Turning the engine off after you’re done mowing is equally important, and we’ll teach you that too. So, before further ado, let’s get into the details.

• 1 Starting Procedure of a John Deere Lawnmower/Lawn-tractor, Step by Step:

• 1.1 Step 1: Prestart checks
• 1.2 Step 2: Push the brake pedal and unlock the mower’s parking brake
• 1.3 Step 3: Move the throttle lever into choke position for a cold mower or half-speed position for a warm mower
• 1.4 Step 4: Turn and hold the key to the start position for 5 seconds
• 1.5 Step 5: Let the key run to its initial position
• 1.6 Step 6: Let the engine run at half speed

• 2.1 Step 1: Move the throttle into the slow position
• 2.2 Step 2: Turn the key to the stop position
• 2.3 Step 3: Engage the parking brake
• 2.4 Step 4: Remove the key

Starting Procedure of a John Deere Lawnmower/Lawn-tractor, Step by Step:

Starting a John Deere lawnmower is not difficult. All you need to do is to follow six easy steps. Before you start with the actual procedure, keep the following important things in mind:

• Start the mower in an appropriate area: We recommend you never start your John Deere lawnmower in a closed space, such as a garage or a shed where the fumes can’t escape. The engine exhaust fumes contain toxic gases such as carbon monoxide, which is so dangerous that it can cause severe injury or even death if inhaled in an enclosed space. So, start the mower in an outdoor area, or open up the doors and Windows if you intend to start it in the garage. If you cannot create adequate ventilation for the exhaust fumes in your garage, attach a pipe extension to the exhaust and run it outside. This way, the fumes will be directed away from you.
• Sit in the seat: You need to be sitting in the seat facing the tractor’s front for starting it. This step may sound “too obvious,” but it is a must-do step. This is because the new models of John Deere tractors are equipped with safety switches that won’t let the engine start unless an operator is sitting in the seat.

With these two things ensured, proceed to the starting procedure.

Step 1: Prestart checks

Before you should start your John Deere lawnmower, you should do some prestart checks. They involve checking the oil level, gas level and see if the blades are ok. Check that the blades are sharp and there are is visible damage. If all is ok, you can put the key in the ignitions slot. Often it is located on the right side of the steering wheel. Locate the slot and put the key into the slot, but don’t turn it in just yet. Turning the ignition key basically turns the ignition switch on, allowing current from the battery to start running through the ignition system. When you insert the key, it will be in the stop position; let it be in this position.

Step 2: Push the brake pedal and unlock the mower’s parking brake

The brake pedal could be located on the left or right side of your lawnmower, depending on your own particular model. Put your foot on the brake pedal and push it all the way down, and hold it there. With the brake pedal fully pushed down, push the parking brake lever to unlock the brake. The parking brake lever is often located below the ignition.

Step 3: Move the throttle lever into choke position for a cold mower or half-speed position for a warm mower

The throttle lever is positioned to the left side of the steering wheel. Locate the throttle lever. If your engine is cold, put the throttle lever in the cold start (choke) position. If you are starting an already warm engine, move the throttle lever to the half-speed position.

Keep in mind that your John Deere lawnmower might have a choke knob instead of a choke position. In this case, put the throttle in the half-speed position, then pull out the choke knob.

Step 4: Turn and hold the key to the start position for 5 seconds

The next step is to turn the key all the way to the right (start position). Hold it in the turned position for five seconds, no longer. Release the key when the engine is starting.

If your engine does not start with one turn of the key, wait for around ten seconds, then turn and hold the key like before, and release it after no longer than five seconds. Repeat this procedure until your engine starts. A healthy engine with adequate fuel will start up on the first or second try.

Keep in mind that holding the key at the start position for more than five seconds can damage the starter. So, be careful in this process.

Step 5: Let the key run to its initial position

Your engine will start running when the key is in the start position. Once the engine starts, let go of the key. The key will automatically return to the run position.

On the ignition switch, the run position is located to the immediate left of the start position. The key will stay in the run position as long as your John Deere lawnmower is running.

Step 6: Let the engine run at half speed

The mower needs to warm up properly before it starts operating. So, let the engine idle for around two minutes before you start operating the mower.

Don’t let the engine idle for more than 2 minutes. If you are operating the mower and need to take a break longer than 2 minutes, turn the mower off instead of letting it idle. Turn it on when you are ready to operate it again.

With the engine started and the John Deere mower running, we hope you have a good time mowing the yard. Once you are done with the mowing, you need to turn the mower off too. In the next section, we’ll show you how to turn off a John Deere lawnmower.

Turning off Procedure of a John Deere Lawnmower/Lawn-tractor, Step by Step:

Follow the steps given below to turn off your John Deere lawnmower:

Step 1: Move the throttle into the slow position

The first step is to move the throttle lever down to the slow position and let your mower idle at this speed for around 30 seconds. If you don’t perform this step before turning the engine off, unburnt fuel will stay in the engine. When the engine idles at a slow speed for half a minute, the engine’s amount of unburnt fuel is considerably minimized. Ensure that your mower is parked in an area with proper ventilation while it idles at a slow speed.

Step 2: Turn the key to the stop position

The next step is to turn the key all the way to the left. With the key in the stop position, you’ll hear the engine turning off.

Step 3: Engage the parking brake

Push the brake pedal all the way down and hold it in this position. With the brake pedal compressed, pull up the parking brake lever to lock the parking brake.

Once the parking brake is locked, take your foot off the brake pedal.

Step 4: Remove the key

Once the mower is successfully turned off, remove the key from the ignition slot. Keep the key in a safe place.

John Deere Mower Starting Problems:

John Deere mowers are very reliable, but even the best machines can run into trouble. It is always possible that your John Deere lawnmower does not normally start because of several reasons. Most of these issues are not too serious and can be fixed by the user. This blog contains many step-by-step articles on how to deal with these problems.

Let’s look at some of these issues:

Battery terminals corroded Loose or damaged wiring Faulty starter (motor and/or solenoid) Weak/dead battery

Faulty spark plug Dirty air filter Dirty fuel filter Weak/dead battery Bad gas A faulty or dirty carburetor Misadjusted engine valves Temperature below 0 o C (32 o F)

The issues mentioned in the table are pretty common for all lawnmowers. The best way to deal with these issues is to avoid them with regular maintenance of your John Deere lawnmower. You can consult the manufacturer’s manual to learn all the maintenance routines to keep your mower healthy. Maintenance increases both the performance and life of machines.

Final Remarks:

It is common for new lawnmower owners to get confused about the starting and turning off procedure. If you are a new John Deere mower owner, it is time for your confusion to go away. The guidelines provided in this blog post will help you with the starting and turning off procedures. After performing these procedures two or three times, you’ll begin to remember them and won’t need to refer to the instructions anymore. To ensure that your John Deere mower starts up and runs smoothly, perform regular maintenance.

About Us

This blog is written by a group of Garden Tool enthusiasts. Together we put a lot of effort into the maintenance of our gardens over the last few years, we become obsessed with it. Nearly every weekend you will find us doing small or big jobs or just enjoying our garden. We like to help other people maintaining their garden and find cool products to write about.

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John Deere Restoration

Our first restoration project, the John Deere, was the catalyst for my love affair with not just buying secondhand, but buying items in need of a little TLC. Although Jay has been practicing self-taught carpentry for years, I was new to home ownership and the bevy of projects that came along with it.

Nothing runs like a Deere

The whole idea started with Jay’s approaching birthday. When Jay dreams of something he needs, he isn’t a book or t-shirt kind of guy. He usually thinking about a barbecue, a shed, or something else far removed from financial reality. This makes him extremely hard to surprise.

For Jay’s previous birthday, I had gone a bit crazy and located a set of King Cobra golf clubs on Kijiji for the low price of 200. This purchase set the bar fairly high and left me scratching my head for ideas as Jay’s birthday loomed on the horizon.

At the same time, we had embarked on a John Deere rescue project for my father’s 1989 John Deere ride-on mower. The tractor had succumbed to a battery acid leak which ruined its cutting deck. Determined to save the tractor, I spent my nights searching high and low for parts on Kijiji.

I must admit, that for me, John Deere lawn tractors spark fond memories of childhood nostalgia. During my childhood, we lived two blocks away from my paternal grandmother and shared with her a 1989 John Deere tractor and trailer. The tractor lived in her barn and we drove it on the road between our houses. In those days, when safety wasn’t a major issue, I loved riding in the trailer while dad drove the tractor home. Every week we would go flying down the big hill, on route to my grandmother’s.

The 1992 John Deere Hydro

In my search for cutting decks without lawn tractors, I came across something better… a rusty, cheap, 1992 John Deere. The Deere was a 175 with fancy hydro static transmission and real working headlights. Of course, I also located a cutting deck, which served to get my father’s tractor back into commission.

When I saw the John Deere, nostalgia overtook me and I knew this was a fantastic opportunity to purchase a John Deere, disguised as a birthday present. Since my father’s 1989 still ran like the day it was purchased, I knew a 1992 model would be a sound investment. And to be honest, both Jay and I were tired of spending 2 1/2 hours a week pushing our little mower around the lawn.

A few blocks away, we were able to test drive the tractor. Here, we were happy to discover it was mechanically perfect, and physically a complete and total disaster. However, the look of the tractor didn’t deter us in the least. The Deere was the stuff projects were made of. We paid somewhere around 350 for the tractor and drove it safely to our house.

The Tractor Transformation – Prep

Jay took the tractor apart and I set to work sanding. I did most of the sanding because… I told Jay the tractor was his birthday gift.

The best course of action for a rusty metal project, is to sand until your hands are numb, and then sand some more. I spent virtually every waking moment sanding the rusted parts of the tractor to the bare metal. For sanding, I used a 40-60 grit sandpaper, folding the paper in quarters and working entirely by hand. On larger areas, I used a sanding block to give my fingers a rest. Since many of the surfaces were curved and hard to reach, we retired our power sanders for this project.

For areas with loose bits of paint, I used a wire brush and regular paint scrapers. To set up a work station, we used our folding work stand. It is a Tool-Smith work bench and allows you to station your project at a comfortable height.

The Tractor Transformation – Paint

For painting. we relied on products from both Canadian Tire and our local John Deere store. We were surprised to learn about the wonderful paint products offered by John Deere. The local dealership and the online website offer factory paints (spray and brush-on) in green, yellow, and Hitachi orange. For our project, we used both the green and the yellow factory paints. Alternatively, Rust Check paint is also available in John Deere Green and Yellow at any local hardware store.

Before we apply paint to older metal, especially metal with rust, we always apply one to two coats of Rust Check Rust Killer. This product, or the very similiar Rust Check Rust Converter are critical to stop further rusting. Although both products can be applied directly to rust, the results last much longer if you put the effort into proper sanding.

John Deere also have access to print decals for their products, both old and new. At the dealership, we were able to order all of the warning stickers for the cutting deck and the body of the tractor. The replacement of these decals ensured that operator instructions were clearly visible.

For the tractor hood, the decals sporting the 175 were in fairly good shape. Since these decals were a bit pricey to replace, we taped the originals off and painted around them.

John Deere tractors have silver icons on the dash indicating how to start and operate the tractor. In our case, all of our silver paint was worn away. This made it impossible to visually tell if the tractor was in turtle gear or rabbit. To fix this problem, we used a Dupli-Color Scratch Fix All-In-1, Ultra Silver paint pen. We simply traced the raised sections very slowly by hand to bring back the silver lettering and let this dry overnight. The paint pen can be sourced from your local hardware store.

Summary of our Transformation Process

To morph our tractor from rust bucket to show room glory, we ran through the following series of steps.

• Take all of the parts you are painting off the tractor. An exception to this is the frame and tires. Clearly label the parts and take before photos so you can get the tractor back together after painting,
• Take before photos of the decal placement,
• If the decals are in poor condition, scrape them off using a paint scraper,
• If the decals are in good condition, simply tape them off with news print,
• For rusted areas, sand to the metal where possible on all metal parts of the frame, cutting deck, hood, grill, flanges, etc. If the paint is in good condition, simply scuff sand,
• Clean all of the dust off the tractor with towels and tack-cloths to ensure you have a smooth surface for painting.
• Use painters tape and newspaper to tape off rubber tires, and mechanical parts,
• In a well ventilated area, spray on 2-3 coats of rust primer as per the directions on the can. We prefer Rust Killer. Let dry over night,
• Spray on 2-3 coats of the appropriate John Deere paint (green or yellow) as per the directions on the can. You may want to practice on cardboard to get the hang of an even spray. Allow to dry overnight,
• Remove any tape and paper,
• Re-apply decals as per photos,
• Put the tractor back together,
• Paint dash decals with a silver paint pen. Simply trace over them lightly like you are using a pencil. Let dry,
• Cut the grass!

The End Result

The finished product was pretty impressive and it felt so good riding around the lawn on my very own (Jay’s) tractor. In fact, the tractor looked so shiny and new, that we fooled our neighbors. They were congratulating us on our new purchase. Not bad for a 1992 remodel.

As of writing this article, the John Deere has been cutting our lawn for 9 years running. With the exception of a few added scratches and scrapes, it looks very much like these original photos. As I write this, the tractor is currently vacationing for the winter in Grammy’s barn, just like old times.

Heed our advice, take your time with a project like this and the result will last for years to come. Proof that you don’t need a pricey new lawn tractor, just some hammers and hand-me-downs!

Toolkit: JD X300 Series vs S200 Series

In the market for a new lawn mower? If you’ve ever shopped for a new lawn tractor or riding lawn mower, you’ve surely noticed that there are many options to choose from. Here at Papé Machinery Agriculture Turf, we offer top-of-the-line equipment from leading manufacturers, and the X300 and S200 series are a part of our model lineup. With so much exceptional machinery to choose from, where do you start? We’re here to help you make the best selection for your project needs.

Let’s take a look at two of our most popular dealer exclusive John Deere lawn tractors: the X300 series and the S200 series, available only at authorized John Deere dealerships. Because these model lineups are dealer exclusive, that means that both series get the full support of the network dealers, so you can’t really go wrong. However, depending on your needs, the size and features of your property, and your price point, one of these top-tier lineups may be a better fit for you.

In this edition of the Papé Machinery Agriculture Turf blog, we’ll evaluate the key differences between these powerhouse lawn mowers, helping you evaluate if the X300 or S200 series is right for you and your property needs.

Evaluating Your Needs

When it comes to deciding which lawn mower is right for you, you want to evaluate the size of your property, and the type of terrain you’re dealing with:

• How big is your property?
• Is the terrain flat, or are there hills?
• Will you be mowing around trees or bushes?

Having answers to these questions handy will help you best choose between different models.

X300 vs S200 Series

As we’ve emphasized, both of these model lineups are dealer exclusive, and are recommended by all of our specialists. However, there are some key differences to be aware of that will help you make your choice.

Fuel Tank

On the S200, the fuel tank is located in the back, under the seat. The fuel opening is a bit smaller than the X300, and has a 2.4 gallon capacity.

On the X300, the fuel tank is located on the side, and has a larger fuel capacity than the S200, coming in at 3.3 gallons. It’s easier to fuel up given its larger mouth.

If you’re looking for something that may be able to travel longer distances, you may be better off with the X300, which carries more fuel and is a bit more convenient to refuel.

Fuel Gauge

On the X300, the fuel gauge is easier to see than the S200, and is always front and center. With the S200, the gauge is either between the legs, or, if you go up to the S240, will be on the right of the dash. With the base S200 model, the gauge is analog, but moves to digital at the S240 tier. The X300 fuel gauge is digital, which may be more convenient and user-friendly for some, though again, both are readily accessible and easy to read.

Decks

Both of these model lineups have the same deck quality, and are both deep decks. However, how you raise and lower the decks is where things differ. On the S-series, you need to use your arm, whereas with the X-series, you will raise and lower the deck with your leg. Raising and lowering the deck is relatively easy between both lineups, though the X300 wins as far as ease and convenience in this category.

Engine Transmission

Both of these models have great engines with exceptional power and longevity. The S200 series comes in either 22 HP or a 21.5 HP engine. The 22 HP engine has an extra cyclonic air filter, which adds to its longevity.

For the X300, you get a bit more options–and a bit more power. You can choose from a 22 HP engine, 21.5 HP engine, or a 23 HP engine, which is the premium option from John Deere. So, if you’re looking for more speed, power and longevity, you may want to go the X300 route, but again, the S200 is a robust machine, and with the help of the extra cyclonic air filter, has built-in features for increasing longevity and durability.

Both of these model lineups offer K46 transmission, which can get you going up to 5.5 mph. However, with the X300, you can actually go all the way up to a K58 transmission, which can be helpful if you need extra speed, longevity, and power for navigating through more unpredictable or difficult terrain.

Driver Controls and Ergonomics

As far as the ergonomics of both lawn mowers go, these John Deere models are exceptionally comfortable. Both have a 15 inch high back seat. With the X300, however, you can get a more premium seat with the X350, for example, which features an 18 inch high back seat with a new leather cushion and thicker padding. This is great for longer mows and bigger jobs, keeping you extra comfortable for the labor ahead.

Steering and Maneuverability

The steering functions on both the X300 and S200 series are very similar, though with the X300, these models have the ability to add hydraulic assist or power assist. This creates a more automotive style steering experience, which can be super helpful for maneuverability. So, if you’re going to be navigating around bushes or more unpredictable terrain, we recommend going with the power steering option associated with the X300 series.

Weight

The S200 series ranges between 480 and 500 pounds depending on which deck you configure the mower with. For the X300 series, it’s going to be higher, which speaks to its larger build and bigger quality. With customizations, the X300 series can go all the way up to 700 pounds, which speaks to its larger, more durable frame.

Warranties

Being a part of the model lineup, our equipment specialists love both of these series. That’s why they are both backed with exceptional warranties. However, there are some differences:

Other Considerations

In addition to what’s outlined in this blog, you may have other considerations, such as price or accessories. Our equipment specialists are here to help you. Be sure to look at our X300 and S200 pages, and reach out to us for assistance on helping you find the lawn mower or lawn tractor for your property needs.

If you found this to be helpful, be sure to tune into more of our Papé Toolkit features, available on our blog and on our YouTube channel. and designed to help equip you with the knowledge and tools you need to make empowered buying decisions for your property.