Lawn mower blade frozen. How to Loosen Bolt on Lawn Mower Blade- Easiest Way with Warning

How to Loosen Bolt on Lawn Mower Blade- Easiest Way with Warning

Do you want to know how to loosen bolt on lawn mower blade? Lawn Mower or grass cutter machine cuts the grass on the ground. The lawn mower has one or several blades, which are connected with a stuck bolt. The design of the lawn mower can detect the height of the cutting grass.

An operator or lever or nut and bolt of the machine adjusts the height of the cutting grass usually. The machine’s blade is tightly connected with a bolt, which needs to be loosened before repairing or removing and the blade can be damaged after using it.

So one must have the knowledge of how to loosen bolt on lawn mower blade if he wants to check the parts or repair or connect a new blade. Are you worried? Can’t loosen the bolt on lawn mower blade? It is not so hard to loosen a bolt on the machine if you follow a series of ways.

How to Loosen Bolt On Lawn Mower Blade

There are many types of lawn mower, it has different sizes of bolt. If you want to get the standard sizes, it must include1\2 inch, 5\8 inch, and ¾ inch. However if the machine’s blade is damaged or looks dull, you have to replace or remove it. You may face the problem if your bolt is frozen or so tight.

Are you looking forward to knowing how to loosen bolt on lawn mower blade? The following series of methods help you.

• Have to put on hand gloves and drain the fuel tank.
• Switch off your engine, you have to gas out from the fuel tank with a pump. Then disconnect the wire from the spark plug carefully and secure it safely so that it does not get any connection with the plug. In that case, you can use tape so that it does not get a connection.
• Always have to take care as if the engine is not getting started accidentally.
• Turn over your machine so that the air cleaner faces of the engine are upward. In this case, you need thick gloves for your hand due to ensure your safety. Since there are various types of lawn mower, so you can refer to the user manual before starting the methods.
• Have to push a wooden wedge or block between the blade and the mower housing to prevent the blade from rotating anticlockwise, if you need to loosen the bolt.
• To loosen the bolt from the machine’s blade you need a spanner of the correct size to put on the head of the bolt and have to force the spanner handle in the anticlockwise ( the bolt is turning left). In that case, you can use a 16mmm spanner.
• Bolt’s size of the lawn mower may differ, it basically depends on the mower’s model. The standard size of the bolt’s head is 1\2 inch or 5\8 inch or 3/4 inch. When you turn the spanner, the bolt of the blade will turn. In that case, you need to pressure by the hand and hold it when you want to loosen the bolt.
• Have to spray powerful oil on the bolt, if you fail to turn the tight bolt and wait 10 or 20 minutes. Rotate the bolt again to loosen it. Select the blade’s bottom side, detach the bolt that loosens and drag the blade, if you want to sharpen the blade or replace the blade.
• Have to reattach the blade following the removal steps, tight the bolt on the lawn mower blade by rotating it clockwise. Put a wooden wedge to stop the blade in a way the blade from rotating clockwise.

Reasons to Loosen the Bolt on Lawn Mower Blade

Any problem may you face while using any machine. In that case, you shouldn’t get nervous, instead you need to find a solution. Like other machines, lawn mower machines have various problems. You must know how to loosen bolt on lawn mower blade if he is facing one of the following problems.

• If you can’t remove blades.
• If your machine is damaged.
• If you need to sharpen the blade.
• If you need to change the blade.
• If the machine’s bolt is so tight or getting so rust.

Warnings

Have to pay full attention, when you use the penetrating oil, put a wrench socket on the bolt’s head, when force the wrench handle to loosen the bolt from the blade, and don’t forget to put gloves in your hand to protect your hand from any skin problem.

If a drop of fuel on the lawn mower, it may create a flammable. If you turn the blade accidentally, you may cut yourself.

Verdict

People who use the lawn mower for their personal or commercial needs, they have to properly maintain the machine. People who are not serious about the loosen bolt on lawn mower blade, it may damage the machine. So when you need to loosen the bolt on lawn mower, you must be more serious as if any part of the machine is secured.

If any part of the machine is damaged while using it or it needs to be replaced with something that is attached to the bolt, then he needs to know how to loosen bolt on lawn mower blade. If you follow the ways, I think you can easily loosen the bolt.

Many lawn mower has one or 2 bolts for security, you can loosen the bolts in the same ways. The whole process has done so carefully as if there is no problem in any part of the machine. When you need to loosen the blade on lawn mower, you will make sure that you have all the essential tools.

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Torches, screw extractors, oil and other tricks to help you free stuck fasteners. These tips work on any fasteners in your home, automobiles and lawn mowers. So stop dealing with problem nuts, bolts and screws and make life easy on yourself with these time-tested tricks.

Family Handyman

Use an Impact Driver When You Can

An impact driver and a set of high-end hex-shaft nut drivers are all you need to loosen small nuts and bolts. For larger nuts and bolts, you’ll need an impact gun and a set of six-point, impact-rated (black finish) sockets. Ordinary chrome sockets can’t handle impact work and may crack or shatter under the stress. And because impact-rated sockets have six points instead of 12, they’re less likely to round over bolt and nut heads.

Family Handyman

Stuck Fasteners Can Bite You

When it comes to causing pain, stuck fasteners can get the job done. Right when you’re giving a stuck bolt all your muscle, wrenches will slip, bolt heads will snap off and your hands will get smashed against something sharp. So always wear gloves and try to orient tool handles so your hands will be clear if a tool slips.

Needless to say, pounding on stubborn fasteners with hammers, mallets and sledgehammers poses similar dangers. Never use a regular hammer for metal-on-metal impact. Bits of the hardened metal can break off and become embedded in your flesh. Safety glasses are a must, as well as hearing protection when you’re running some of these very power noisy tools.

Family Handyman

Lock on to Wrecked Heads

These pliers are best known by the brand name Vise-Grip. Whatever brand you have, they’ll get you out of a jam when bolt and nut shoulders are rounded, or when screw slots or Phillips crosses are stripped out. Rounded jaws work best. Make sure the jaws are seated on the flats of the nut/bolt or around the screw head, and tighten the handle as much as you possibly can before turning the fastener.

Family Handyman

Pound a Combo Wrench

Box-end wrenches work better than sockets on stuck heads because they twist in the same plane as the head, rather than being offset by an inch or more. That offset means sockets are likelier to slip off heads and round over shoulders. Fit the closed end of the wrench over the bolt head and try tugging in short pulses, instead of a full-throttle pull. That’ll help loosen rust-bonded surfaces. If that doesn’t do it, tap on the wrench with a plastic, brass or wooden mallet. It’s a good way to loosen the bones in your hand, too, so wear leather gloves and keep your fingers well away from the impact zone!

Family Handyman

Pipe Wrenches Aren’t Just For Pipes

When you’re dealing with really big stuck bolts, a pipe wrench might be your best option, especially if you don’t own a giant set of wrenches or sockets. The long handle and aggressive jaw teeth will loosen the most stubborn bolts. Just make sure you get the jaws tight against the shoulders. Pipe wrenches are also a go-to tool when bolt shoulders have been rounded over.

Family Handyman

Sacrificing a Tool

It might seem sacrilegious to destroy a tool, but sometimes working in narrow or confined spaces makes it necessary. That’s where your grinder comes in. Use it to make wrenches thinner and screwdrivers skinnier and to add tapers to sockets so they fit into tight recesses. But this technique comes with a warning. Grinding a tool compromises its integrity, so take extra precautions when using it (wear goggles and gloves). When you’re done, toss the modified tool and get a new one—it’s no longer safe for use on other jobs.

Family Handyman

Heat is the Last Resort

Applying heat with a propane torch can expand a nut (or threaded opening) and loosen it. If you’ve tried everything and still can’t free a bolt or nut, try heat. But first make sure the fastener is a good distance away from hoses, belts, gas tanks or anything else that might burn up your car or kill you in an explosion.

If the area is soaked with penetrant, spray it with nonflammable brake cleaner to remove it before you apply heat. Keep a fire extinguisher nearby. Once you’ve established that it’s safe, aim the flame at the bolt head or nut, not the surrounding metal. Heat for about 15 seconds, but don’t get it cherry red. Then spray the bolt head with water to cool it quickly. Continue spraying until it no longer steams. The expansion/contraction cracks the rust, so add more rust penetrant, let it soak and then add vibration by tapping it with a hammer or other tool. Then try to loosen it.

Family Handyman

Whack Stuck Wheels

Sometimes rust will fuse wheels to the rotor, making it almost impossible to pull them off. If it happens to you when you’re changing a tire or working on the brakes, loosen the lugs and prop a 2×10 against the tire, then pound away with the biggest sledgehammer you have. After a few swings, the wheel will pop right off. But if you wait until you have a flat on the side of the road, you won’t have a sledge to free up a stuck wheel. So before you head out on that road trip, maybe you should rotate those tires and make sure your wheels aren’t stuck, especially if you have an older car with some rust.

Family Handyman

Don’t Mess Around—Cut It Off!

If you have a stuck nut/bolt that can be replaced, don’t beat yourself up trying to unscrew the rusty one. Just cut off the stuck fasteners (or the parts around it if they’re getting replaced) and buy new ones. Use a reciprocating saw with a hacksaw blade or, better yet, a cutoff tool. (You can get a cutoff tool for as little as 30 at any home center or hardware store.) Then take the leftovers to the store to match them up with new ones.

Family Handyman

Try an Impact Driver

When you need to tackle stuck slotted or Phillips screws, buy a 15 hammer-style impact driver. Apply rust penetrant and allow it to soak in. Then fit the right driver bit in the end, and pound on the end with a ball-peen hammer. This shocks the fastener, cracks the rust and twists the bit, all at the same time. The hammer blow keeps the bit in the screw head, preventing further damage to the slots.

Family Handyman

Drill Out Rivets

Removing rivets is easier than you think. Just pick a drill bit that’s a tad larger than the hole in the top of the rivet. Run the drill until the washer head is loose. Then poke the rest of the rivet out of the hole.

Husqvarna Riding Mower Blades Won’t Engage? (We Have A Fix)

Are the blades on your riding mower not engaging? This can make cutting your grass extremely difficult. Husqvarna riding mower blades won’t engage for several reasons, including a frozen pulley. Whether it be a damaged drive belt or defective battery, let’s take a look at what you can do when your Husqvarna riding mower blades won’t engage.

Taking care of your property can be rewarding but also frustrating. Every homeowner wants their property to be spectacular and be the talk of the town. However, overgrown grass, littered gutters, accumulated dirt on the roof, and other things paint a terrible picture of your property. The Husqvarna riding mower can help you take care of the lawn, but there are times when the blades won’t turn on.

If your Husqvarna riding mower blades don’t engage, you need to check the PTO switch, drive belts, frozen pulley, and make sure the battery is charged. over, you can also check to see if the blade clutch is working correctly and the safety switch is off.

When you have a short time to take care of your grass, it might not be very enjoyable when you turn on your mower, and the blades on your mower don’t do anything. This problem can easily transform the easy job of a typical day into a spontaneous and unwarranted repair session. We’ll walk you through how to troubleshoot your mower so that you can get your blades situated.

Troubleshooting Your Husqvarna Motor Blades

While there are many variables that may prevent the blades from spinning, bear in mind that although others are common to all forms of products, there are some elements that are exclusive to different manufacturers.

So, before you even try to fix everything by yourself, you need to take a second look at the manufacturer’s manual for tips and precautions under the “Troubleshooting” section. However, if you can’t find anything there, we have compiled a list of things you can do to make the blades work again and troubleshoot any issues with your lawnmower.

How Can I Fix My Husqvarna Riding Mower Blades?

While there are certain specific things for every manufacturer, here are some things that can help restart your Husqvarna Riding mower. Let’s take a look.

• Deck Belt
• Engine Belt
• PTO Clutch
• PTO Switch
• Idler Pulley
• Safety Switch

Take A Look At The Deck Belt

If your mower blades do not turn on or engage after clicking on the blade controls, this could be an indication that your deck belt can be damaged.

The deck is positioned right beneath the seat. The belt rotates the blades of the mowers and operates over an idler pulley mechanism. The precise deck belt design would differ on the mower model you are using and varies from manufacturer to manufacturer.

• Check the deck board. Place the mower on a flat surface to check the deck board, lower the deck to its lowest setting possible.
• Clean off any debris. The first thing that you need to is clean any dirt or grass that could have built up over the deck of the mower.
• Check the belt for any signs of damage, or wear and tear. Next, you need to detach any guards or covers that shield the network of the deck belt. When you have access to the belt, check it for any signs of damage, harm, wear, and tear.
• Re-install the belt or buy a new one. If the belt is merely misplaced, you can mount it back on. However, in case of damage, you need to change the belt.

Check The Engine Belts

So, you checked the deck belt, and there was nothing wrong with it. The next move is to take a look at the engine belt of your Husqvarna riding mower. The engine drive belt on the deck of the mower is responsible for the system of controlled activation and disengagement of the mower’s blades.

The mower blades do not activate if the belt is stretched out, worn out, or damaged. Replacing the drive belt will rectify the problem. Often, the blades do not activate if the drive belt is not directed correctly and mounted. To ensure that the belt is correctly mounted, take a look at the diagram in the owner’s manual.

Check For Any Damage To The Undercarriage

This engine belt collects the energy generated by the crankshaft’s rotating motion and subsequently converts it to power the deck belt motion. The first thing you need to do is to remove the top surface covering. When the coverings have been removed, check for any signs of damage, harm, or wear on the engine belt.

The motor travels from the mowers motor to the deck belt, which attaches to a pulley in the deck belt network. Over time, these belt structures and systems can accumulate dirt, debris, and dust. This is why you need to be sure to remove all of the blockages or debris that could hinder the belt from spinning freely.

Step 1: Check The PTO Clutch For Wear And Tear

Every Husqvarna riding mower comes with a Power Take-Off Clutch, also known as the PTO clutch. This clutch gives the operator the power to disconnect the engine from the blades manually. This energized clutch provides power to the drive belts to engage and rotate the blades.

If this PTO clutch is not getting enough power, the mower blades will not engage and turn on. You need to check whether the clutch solenoid is defective or the clutch is damaged or worn out. Once you have identified the problem, you can either opt for a new clutch or have a professional lawn mower repair specialist to fix it for you.

Step 2: Look For Any Damage Of The PTO Switch

The next item that you need to check is the PTO switch. This PTO switch is responsible for providing power to the PTO clutch. If this is worn out or damaged, the PTO clutch will not get any power, and as a result, the blades won’t engage.

Turn on the PTO switch, and use a multimeter to check its consistency and power supply. If you notice any inconsistencies in the power supply, replace the PTO switch with a new one.

Step 3: Check The Idler Pulley

The idler pulley of your mower adjusts the tension within the drive belt, and the drive belt turns the blades. If this pulley is frozen or stuck, it will not alter the tension, and the blades won’t engage.

You can quickly fix this by replacing or repairing a broken or frozen idler pulley, and the blades will start turning on again. You may differentiate an idler pulley from the bearings in its middle from other pulleys on the mower. The different types of pulleys are fastened to a single shaft.

Step 4: Check The Safety Switch

Lastly, you need to check the safety switch on your Husqvarna riding mower. A poor protection mechanism will even stop the spinning of the mower blades. Some lawn mowers are fitted with one or two safety switches, which are programmed to refrain the blades from spinning and engaging. So, you need to take a look and see if these switches are turned on or off.

Check the switches and also check the electrical connections inside these safety switches. Sometimes, the controls are turned off, but the electrical connections send out signals to the blades to stop working.

Related Questions

How do I know if my PTO clutch is bad?

To check if your PTO clutch is bad, you will need to activate and then disengage your PTO engagement lever. Then turn it off and on a few times. If you don’t hear the noise or the power takeoff pulley isn’t stopping or slowing down, it means the clutch and plates are damaged from overheating or a jammed slip ring.

Why does my lawnmower die when I engage the blades?

Your engine will die when you engage the blades if the pulley isn’t spinning freely. The pulleys are controlled by the drive belt, and it turns the spindles. However, if the pully isn’t spinning freely, then it will cause your engine to die when you engage your mower blades.

Where is the PTO clutch?

To locate your PTO clutch, you will need to look underneath your mower. The clutch is located beside the power drive shaft and connected to the blade shaft. When the blade shaft spins, so do the blades. Right in that area, you will see a belt that’s attached to the PTO clutch pulley and the drive shaft. This is where your PTO clutch is located.

What Is The Bottom Line Here?

If you have inspected everything and cannot find any problems, you need to call a professional riding mower repair specialist. No need to keep whacking at every belt to see if the blades will engage. ( That trick only works for remote controls.) The tips mentioned above will help you do a preliminary inspection by yourself. If nothing else works, call a professional repairer and fix the blades.

Just remember that hiring a professional can cost anywhere between 250 to 750 for your lawnmower. It’s a good idea to make sure you have the correct amount saved up before calling someone for repairs. At any rate, you’ll have your mower running like brand new once it receives the repairs and maintenance that it needs.

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Mowing Frozen Grass, this is what you need to do

Having a lush, healthy, and aesthetically appealing lawn is a dream of every owner. An eye-catching lawn always adds to the house’s beauty and is satisfactory for the people living around it. However, maintaining a beautiful lawn requires some effort and care. Every lawn has to go through different weather conditions throughout the year. Preparing your lawn for more challenging conditions to survive during those times requires extra care from the owner. In the autumn, you have those days where the night is so cold that the grass will freeze, but the days still see nice temperatures. This is a harder time for lawns. The Frost in the winter freezes the water inside the grass’s blades, and any step on the grass can damage its blades.

Mowing Frozen Grass, this is what you need to do:

Mowing frozen grass is harmful to your lawn and can damage it. The grass cannot bear any physical stress during those conditions. Mowing frozen or frosted grass causes excessive rupturing of the cells in the plant. Please wait for the grass to defrost before you start mowing it. Mowing in frosty conditions requires extra patience and care so that you keep your lawn neat without causing any serious damage to the grass.

This article will also give you information about mowing your grass in the autumn and early winter when the nights are getting colder. It will discuss the necessary measures that must be taken and important techniques regarding mowing timing and mowing height that should be used to prepare your lawn for more challenging conditions.

Effects of Frost on the grass

In regions with cool-season turf, grass grows readily and quickly in fall. The cooler air and autumnal rains give the lawn a boost and send them into a Rapid growth phase. However, following a few hard touches of Frost, warm-season grasses go dormant. You can cause serious damage to the grass in your lawn during this time if you walk across it.

So, let’s discuss how Frost impacts your lawn so that you can be aware of the damage caused to it. During cold and clear nights, Frost occurs when the atmospheric conditions cause the grass to become colder than the surrounding air. Frost can be light or heavy, depending upon the surrounding conditions. It can kill the annual plants and cause the perennial plants to go dormant.

Grass leaves contain water for their nourishment. Frost freezes this water inside the grass leaves, and during this freezing process, the water molecules naturally expand. This expansion of the water molecules damages the cell and ruptures the cell walls. Light Frost doesn’t freeze the ground, so the grassroots are still above the freezing point even if the grass’s blades are frozen. As a result, the grass blades damaged by light Frost will be healed by the roots as the grass continues to grow.

However, heavy Frost over several nights can lead to visible signs of damage. The extent of damage caused by the Frost depends upon the type of grass. For example, St. Augustine grass develops a brown, yellow, or purple hue when the Frost damages it. Bermuda grass also develops a brown, patchy appearance and dies relatively quickly if the warm temperature doesn’t return.

A frosted lawn requires extra care as the grass blades are frozen during this period. In general, the grass is tough and, in most circumstances, is not damaged by the Frost. However, the damage will most certainly occur if it is walked on or mowed while still frozen. Any traffic or activity such as walking on it or mowing it can break the grass blades.

The expanded water molecules inside the frozen grass blades slice through the grass and cause significant damage to the cells when a heavy object presses on these frozen blades. Most of the exposed areas near the top of the plant will turn white and begin to curl. In more extreme cases, you may be seeing some browning and discoloration lower on the plant leaves. After this damage, the lawn might recover eventually, but it might not bounce back fully until the spring.

Mowing during late fall and early winter

We are all aware of seeing Frost on the lawns in the late fall or winter mornings. Frost is frozen droplets of dew that have frozen overnight on the cold surface. Winter is always a taxing time for lawn care. Walking and mowing should be given careful considerations during this time of the year, as it can damage the grass during Frost. The Frost freezes the grass blades, and whenever an object presses on these frozen grass blades, they get damaged. So, taking out your mower on a frosty cold morning to mow your lawn is never a good idea.

When the Frost has gone into the ground, this means that the moisture in the root is freezing. Try to avoid mowing at this time where the frozen root zone meets the non-frozen soil. Any pressure on the soil at this stage will create a shearing effect, and the two layers will be moving left and right against each other.

This causes a root break where the deeper roots get broken off when the upper frozen roots surface slides over it. Mowing when the grass is cold and brittle may damage or even crush the grass’s crown, which is the area near the base of the grass blade where the grass sprouts. By destroying the grass crown, you may destroy any possibility of growth later in the spring.

If you want to mow your lawn during this time of the year, proceed with caution. Always wait for the Frost to go away in the morning and then mow your lawn when the grass is dry. Frost goes away when the sun comes out, and the temperature gets a bit warmer. So, wait for the right time.

If you mow while your grass is still covered with Frost, you will damage the grass’s leaves, and the mower will cut the grass unevenly. Make sure that the grass is completely dry. Mowing wet grass can be as harmful as mowing frosty grass. over, set your mower blades high enough so that you only cut one-third of the grass blade.

How cold is too cold to cut grass?

You should always avoid mowing when temperatures are below freezing. The frozen grass blades are very fragile. As explained earlier, even the act of walking on the frosty grass can damage the grass blades. Similarly, mowing can also cause extreme damage to the frozen or frosted grass, which may weaken or even kill it.

Mowing before Frost or snow is also dangerous as mowing creates a wound on the grass blade, and this wound becomes more susceptible to Frost or snow, which may cause damage to the grass plant. In temperatures below forty degrees, grass growth is very slow, and it can’t heal the damage caused by mowing. So, mowing frozen grass should be avoided at all times.

Early winter thaws

It would be best if you were careful during the early winter thaws. Don’t mow the grass in your lawn right after the Frost or snow layer has melted. Mowing wet grass is always a bad practice as it tears the grass blades and causes additional bruising. Mowing when the grass is frozen or still has residual Frost on it can injure the plant. This causes excessive rupturing of the cells in the plant. Another problem regarding mowing in the winter season is that if you mow your lawn right before the Frost, the grass will become more susceptible to frost damage as mowing creates a wound to the grass plant.

Don’t mow the grass if the conditions are not suitable for mowing. Don’t be fooled by the false thaws that encourage your grass to spring up. Always refrain from improper cold-weather mowing practices; otherwise, you will damage your lawn. In many regions, it’s best practice to stop mowing completely between November and March.

Mowing the grass before the Frost or snow arrives

It is advisable to mow your lawn before you receive the snow. In winter, the grass growth slows down. It is ideal for giving your lawn a last mow before winter, typically just before the temperature dips below forty degrees. So, you can mow before a freeze as long as conditions are above forty degrees and the grass blades are not wet.

If you follow this practice, you will have a great chance to have a robust and healthy lawn in spring. Weather patterns vary region to region and year to year so, there is no typical time to mow your yard for the last time for the year. However, if you live in northern parts of the country, you can mow for the last time in late October and then don’t mow your lawn until March.

Once the temperature is raised and spring sets in, you can resume mowing your lawn.

Mowing height in winter

It can be damaging to leave long grass in winter. In snowy areas, long grass serves as a ceiling that prevents snow from reaching the ground. This may invite voles and vermin who tunnel under the snow to eat the grassroots and damage your yard. If the grass is left long for winters, diseases like snow mold and lawn fungus can also occur. over, long grass stays brown and dormant longer in spring which increases the chances of weed invasion. So, it is a good idea to mow your lawn to a healthy height before winter sets in.

You should mow the grass a little longer than you usually do. For your pre-winter mow, you may add an extra half-inch to your mower height. This will ensure good winter grass health and quick recovery in spring. Mowing cool-season grass before spring to a suitable height before winter also ensures that your grass will grow vibrantly in spring. It also helps in keeping the destructive pests out of your lawn during the snow. Thus, mowing before winter means better grass growth in spring, making your lawn look great and discourages weeds.

Final Word

Late fall and early winter are always a taxing time for lawn care. Frost and snow can be injurious to your lawn’s health. It is the hardest time of the year for your lawn. The severity of winter affects the grass.

Mowing the grass during this time can do no good to your lawn, ending up damaging the grass. If the days are still nice, wait for the grass to defrost. If the winter really kicks in, the best practice is to mow your lawn before the start of this. Let it grow slowly during the cold winter season so that it stays robust enough to face frosty or snowy conditions.

Growing the grass slightly longer during the cold part of the year will ensure fast healing of the grass damaged by severe winter conditions, and your lawn will quickly regain its lust and health in spring. Keeping your lawn in great shape over the winter doesn’t need to be a worry. It merely requires patience and preparation and a little bit of attention during the nastiest months.