Lawn mower lever broken. 5 DIY Fixes Lawn Mower Starting Cord Won’t Pull

[5 DIY Fixes] Lawn Mower Starting Cord Won’t Pull

Everyone who has owned a push mower has experienced the dreaded moment when you go to pull the recoil starter cord and you nearly throw out your shoulder or break your fingers from the tension. It’s not fun.

Sometimes the cord is completely locked up, and sometimes it will jerk towards you violently but slowly as you try not to get a hernia from your efforts.

The good news is that there is a very small chance that anything is actually broken or that you even need to replace something.

This article will take you over a few very common fixes that will take care of 95% of your problems before you need to take it to a small engine repair shop. I’m throwing 7 years of fixing small engines as a side job into this article, so hopefully that knowledge will pay off.

It is common for a lawn mower’s pull cord to not work due to hydrolock, which is where liquid oil or gas has entered the cylinder and cannot be compressed by the piston as the cord is pulled by hand. This is typically caused by tipping the lawn mower incorrectly. Removing the spark plug and pulling the starter cord repeatedly will flush out the cylinder.

While hydrolock is the most common cause, and can happen for a number of reasons, there are still a few other things you should check in case that doesn’t fix the problem.

I’ve got a quick table for you below, followed by a video where I will guide you through the process. Explanations of the problems and their corresponding repairs will make up the rest of the article.

I have the problems listed in the order I would check if I was having a problem with my own lawn mower. It should go without saying, but if this is your first time using a push mower, make sure that you are clamping the brake lever (located right above the handle) to the handle to disengage the flywheel brake before you try starting it. It’s an honest mistake, but one worth mentioning.

Don’t panic about the pull cord, we’ll get this fixed together!

Mowing a tree branch isn’t the wisest thing, but it happens to the best of us.

How to Fix a Blade Obstruction

You’ll need to access the bottom of the mower deck to check for an obstruction.

There is a right way and a wrong way to tip a lawn mower. One is safe, and the other will lead to problems. I highly recommend checking out this link here (it will open in another tab) to make sure you’re not missing anything.

Remove the rubber spark plug boot first, and then tip your lawn mower back so that the handle is on the ground. Place something heavy on the handle to keep the lawn mower tipped up.

This should give you enough room to at least check and see if you have anything binding up the blades.

Once the spark plug boot is removed, you can safely remove the obstruction by hand if you’ve got enough room to work.

If you need more room to work, you’ll need to tip the mower on its side. Please check out the article above to tip yours the correct way so that you don’t create more problems for yourself.

Also, just as a reminder, make sure to check the debris skirt for being a possible obstruction. It’s easy to overlook.

With the blade clear of anything that might be binding it, try turning the blades by hand. One side of the blade will be dull and the other will be sharp. Spin it in the direction that the blade would be cutting grass if it were spinning.

If the blade now spins freely, it should now work to pull the cord back. If the cord still doesn’t work, or if the blades won’t spin by hand, we will go to the next section.

A Seized Engine Will Stop a Lawn Mower’s Pull Cord

Next, I would quickly check the oil in the crankcase by pulling out the dipstick and seeing what level it’s at.

If your engine is super low or out of oil, it’s possible that the engine is completely seized up or damaged from overheating when you last used it.

Remember from the previous section that the blade shaft runs through the engine where it connects to the piston?

The piston needs to be lubricated by the engine oil to continue to slide up and down in the cylinder. Without oil, or enough oil, the piston will overheat in the cylinder as it will essentially be metal on metal at a very high rate of speed.

Metal can warp or start to fuse together from the heat caused by the excess friction.

Once this is done, your engine is likely toast.

If you have enough oil in on the dipstick, you can proceed to the next step.

Oil on this lawn mower is perfect. If you didn’t see any oil on the dipstick I would be very concerned.

If you don’t see oil on the dipstick at all, add oil (or drain the oil that’s in there and start fresh) until the level is correct.

Proceed to the next step where we’ll lubricate the cylinder if needed, and check for hydrolock as well.

Pro Tip: A lawnmower pull cord could also be sluggish to pull if you are trying to start the mower in temperatures below freezing 32°F, or 0°C. SAE30, the most common type used in mowers, becomes too thick at cold temperatures and doesn’t adequately lubricate the internals of the engine to allow for a smooth pull. Running a lawn mower in these temps with this oil can cause engine damage.

Hydrolock Can Cause a Lawn Mower Starter Cord to Fail

Hydrolock is very common and can be caused for several reasons.

Hydrolock is when you have a liquid (either gas or oil) that has made its way into the combustion cylinder and it’s sitting on top of the piston. The piston cannot compress and the excess pressure prevents movement.

Air can be compressed, but liquids cannot. You certainly can’t do it by hand, and even your engine, moving at 1000’s of RPMs cannot do it. That’s why it stalls when it “floods”, or when liquid gasoline gets into the cylinder.

If the piston can’t move due, then the blades can’t spin and the recoil cord won’t pull.

You may get a little movement on the cord if you pull slow and hard, but it will feel extremely choppy and the cord will feel like it’s going to break your fingers as it snaps back to its original position.

A good visual sign that you have hydrolock is oil seeping out of the exhaust as you’re trying to pull the cord.

How to Fix Hydrolock in a Mower

Go ahead and remove the spark plug boot and then the spark plug itself. You’ll typically need a 5/8″ deep well socket, but your size may vary.

To remove the spark plug, remove the rubber boot first.

With the spark plug removed, depress the brake lever and slowly pull the starter cord. If it pulls, then you had hydrolock.

Go ahead and pull it a few times with the spark plug removed like you are trying to start the mower.

Keep the direction of the spark plug hole pointed in a safe direction since gas or oil will be flinging out of it as you pull on the cord.

Use a socket to remove the spark plug.

You can now put the spark plug back in and connect the rubber boot. The engine should start up but it will likely smoke for 10-15 minutes as it burns off the excess oil that made its way into the exhaust. This is completely normal.

Going back to the previous section regarding a seized engine — if your engine was very low on oil and you’ve removed the spark plug but the starter cord still won’t pull, then you can try to lubricate the cylinder a bit. Place a tablespoon or two of fresh engine oil in spark plug hole and gently tilt the lawn mower around a little to allow the oil to touch the cylinder walls.

Let it sit for an hour or so to let the oil try to work its way by the piston rings and lubricate everything. It may be completely beyond repair, but it’s worth a shot.

Be sure to check the following steps as well, in case the problem is upstream of the piston and somewhere with the flywheel or pull cord assembly itself!

The Brake, Brake Lever, or Cable Are Malfunctioning and Stopping a Mower’s Pull Cord

We started at the bottom with the blades, then worked our way up to the engine oil in the crankcase, and then to the piston and cylinder. If we keep working our way up, we find ourselves around the flywheel.

The brake lever that you clamp to the handle has a cable that runs down and connects to an assembly that has a brake pad that pushes against the flywheel. It is also connected to a spring. When at rest, the spring keeps the brake pad pushed against the flywheel.

The brake assembly has a pad (red) the pushes against the flywheel when you let go of the brake lever up top. If you try pulling the rope with it engaged like this, it would be like driving with the parking brake on. You can do it, but it’s not going to go fast and it’s going to take a lot of effort. Even if you pull it, the engine will never engage with the brake on since a “kill switch” is also engaged in this position. When you squeeze the brake lever to the handle up top, the brake pad releases from the flywheel (red pad) and the bottom of the assembly moves away from the kill switch which allows the engine to start.

When you pull on the lever, it lifts the brake pad off the flywheel and allows it to spin when you pull on the cord.

The brake lever near the engine also triggers a “kill switch” for the engine when it’s at rest. If the brake lever by the engine is not full disengaged by you bringing the brake lever by the handle and the handle together, then the kill switch keep the spark plug from working.

There could be a number of things that go wrong here. The cable could be inserted into the wrong hole if someone did some maintenance on it, the cable itself (usually the plastic tubing) could be compromised, there could be rust that’s not allowing the brake lever by the engine to turn, etc.

The cable itself should be relatively taut, with just a slight amount of slack when the brake lever is not being pressed against the handle. If it is excessively droopy, make sure that the one end of the cable attaches to the brake handle, and the other to the brake lever by the engine. Make sure all the cables are in place for the brake lever (up top and the one down at the brake assembly near the engine). Make sure the brake cable is relatively taut with only a small amount of slack. If you have excess slack, you will likely need to get a new cable.

If they are properly connected, then you will need to replace the cable. Search your make and model mower and check for a parts manual online to get a parts number. Cables can easily be found on Amazon.

To check the actual brake pad and the moving parts, you’ll need to remove the cover and shroud from your mower. If your cable looks good, then you’re going to want to proceed to the next step since we’ll be taking things apart anyway.

Starter Rope Assembly is Broken

Finally, we’re at the last step. We’ve worked our way up through the whole mower and are now at the starter rope assembly itself.

The starter rope assembly, or recoil assembly, is basically a giant compressed spring that winds up your cord when you let it go.

Sometimes they can get bound up, tabs can break, or things move out of place.

Removing the starter cord is relatively simple. Just a few screws hold it on. Once it’s removed, the rest is rather complicated to explain in written form.

I have a video that I made for repairing a generator pull cord. The concept is the exact same, so feel free to check out the video below. ⬇⬇⬇

Robert lives in central Michigan and enjoys running, woodworking, and fixing up small engines.

Recent Posts

One of the first things to cross everyone’s mind is does the water still work when the power goes out. Water makes hydration, personal hygiene, cooking, cleaning, and waste removal all.

Power outages are an inevitable part of life, often occurring during severe weather conditions or due to technical issues with the electricity supply. During these times, it’s essential to know how.

About Me

Hi! I’m Robert and this blog started with my journey of learning about battery banks, generators, and power outage preparations. I’ve been an avid hobbyist in these fields for over 7 years and I enjoy sharing what I’ve learned in a way that’s geared for beginners and those just getting their foot in the door with small engine repair and prepping. I’ve been doing maintenance and handyman work for the last several years and I’ll be including little home and garage tips and tricks that I learn along the way as well. Thanks for stopping by!

Legal Information Disclaimer

This site is owned and operated by Robert Van Nuck. Home Battery Bank is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. Home Battery Bank also participates in advertising through Google AdSense and Ezoic. Home Battery Bank is compensated for referring traffic and business to these companies. The advice given on this website is for informational purposes only. Working with electricity can be deadly if you are not careful. Please consult a certified electrician if there is anything you are uncomfortable with.

How To Fix A Lawnmower: 5 Common Problems

Lawnmower won’t start? While some lawnmower problems are preventable, others are inevitable.

It is important to learn how the mower works and how to fix a lawnmower at home. Always consult the owner’s manual for any mower before attempting repairs at home. If the mower is under warranty, consult the manufacturer before trying to figure out how to fix a lawnmower at home.

Common Problems And Lawnmower Troubleshooting Tips

Fortunately, it is easy to learn small engine repair and basic lawnmower repair when it comes to simple issues. Most problems can be remedied with a few tools, replacement lawnmower parts, and patience. To save money, always use these lawn mower repair tips for fixing a lawnmower at home before running out to buy a new mower.

The Starter Rope Is Stuck Or Is Hard To Pull

This problem is usually caused by the engagement of the engine flywheel brake. Check to see if the flywheel brake is pressing against the handle before pulling the rope again. When the flywheel brake is not the issue and the problem persists, check the lawnmower blade.

A rope that is stuck or hard to pull may be caused by the blade dragging on the ground or by clippings getting stuck to the blade. To address this issue, place the mower on a hard surface. Make sure the engine is shut off and the spark plug wire is not engaged. Carefully clean the bottom side of the blade to remove any clippings or dirt, put the mower back into position and try pulling the cord again. If the problem persists, one or more lawnmower parts may not be functioning correctly and will need to be repaired. Consult the owner’s manual or search online for repair guides for the specific model and brand of mower.

The Lawnmower Loses Power While Moving

At some point in time, nearly every lawnmower owner will be pushing the mower along and suddenly hear it sputter as the engine stops.

• One of the most common causes is a dirty filter. Use the owner’s manual to determine where the filter is. Remove the filter and clean it. If the filter is very dirty it may need to be replaced. This is one of the most inexpensive lawnmower parts to replace.
• If the filter is not the issue, compare the height of the grass to the mower’s cutting height setting. If the grass is tall, adjust the cutting height accordingly.
• Another way to fix lawn mower power issues is to clean the blade. Refer to the owner’s manual and use the manufacturers instructions to clean the mower blade.
• If this does not fix the issue, check the spark plug. Many people are able to quickly repair their lawn mowers by cleaning or replacing a spark plug. Spark plugs are also affordable mower parts that are sold online or in home improvement stores.

The Lawnmower Starts Smoking

This is one of the most startling issues to encounter – most people assume that the engine is about to die or blow up. However, this problem is usually not very serious. The engine often smokes when the chamber that holds oil is too full. Check the chamber to see if this is the issue. Another problem may be a leak in the oil chamber. If the mower leans to one side while mowing on a slope, the oil may leak out onto the muffler and cause the smoking. When the mower’s engine is off and has cooled, inspect the oil chamber area for leaks. The issue may be that the cap is not on tight enough. If the part must be replaced, it may be easier to look for the part online than to search for it in stores.

In rarer cases, the smoke may be a sign of a serious issue. If the smoke is white or very light in color and the mower does not run continuously, it is time to have a professional repair company look at the mower.

The Lawnmower Will Not Start

The first step in learning to repair lawn mower starting issues is to check the gas tank. An empty gas tank is the most common cause of a lawnmower not starting. Mower owners who are diligent about keeping their tanks full should still check the tank to see if there is a leak. If the tank is empty but should not be, inspect the outside of the tank for leaks. Replacement tanks can be found using an online lawnmower parts site.

Remember, in order to keep your fuel fresh if you’re going to be storing your lawnmower, use STA-BIL® Storage. It will keep your fuel fresh for 12 months and help protect the fuel tank from the effects of ethanol gas. Also, if there is a shut off valve for the gas lines, by all means, use it.

If the gas tank is not the issue because the mower runs on a battery, check the battery for signs of damage. Lawnmower batteries may also lose their ability to hold a charge as they age. Look for replacement lawnmower batteries if the battery needs to be replaced. Lawnmower batteries vary in price depending on the brand and model of mower.

Another important step in learning how to fix a lawnmower that will not start is checking the spark plugs. If they are dirty, clean them thoroughly. Reconnect them if they are loose. Old spark plugs should be replaced with new ones. If the fuel is not getting to the engine, knock on the carburetor’s side to help the gas flow again. If this does not fix lawn mower issues of this nature, look for a new fuel filter online.

The Lawnmower Loses Speed

When a lawnmower slows down considerably, the issue is usually a dislocated or damaged drive belt. This part is located in the motor casing. Consult the owner’s manual to verify the location. With the mower turned off, inspect the drive belt. If the belt is loose but not damaged, reattach it. If it is damaged, replacement belts are usually easy to find online from a lawnmower parts site. A new belt should repair lawn mower issues of this type. If the lawnmower runs on batteries, check the battery. Some lawnmower batteries may cause this issue if they malfunction, however, it is not common for lawnmower batteries to slow a mower’s speed.

How To Prevent Lawnmower Problems

Knowing how to repair a lawnmower at home saves time and money. The easiest way to avoid frequent problems is to maintain the mower. Follow these simple tips to keep the mower in good condition:

– Always use the correct type of replacement lawnmower parts. – Clean the blade regularly. Make sure to pull the plug so there is no chance that the blades can move while you’re cleaning them. – Oil any moving parts when needed according to the manufacturer’s instructions. – Change the oil as recommended. – Use the correct type of fuel. – Recharge lawnmower batteries according to instructions but avoid overcharging them. – Store the mower in a cool, dry and covered space when it is not in use. – Have the mower serviced as recommended by the manufacturer or warranty.

Lawn mower lever broken

Ever had your mower that starts but refuses to move an inch? Believe it or not, it’s a pretty common issue. Keep reading to learn about the three most likely culprits that might be causing your mower to stand still, and how you can fix them.

Transaxle Disengagement

Start by inspecting the transmission disengage lever. If this is pulled out, it disconnects the transaxle—the component that sends power to the wheels—and renders your pedals or levers useless. To resolve this, simply push the metal lever back in on a tractor-style riding mower, or turn the lever inward or outward on some zero-turn mowers. This lever is typically found at the rear of a tractor-style mower or above each of the drive motors on a zero-turn mower.

Drive Belt Issues

If your mower won’t budge, it might be time to inspect the drive belt. This component, responsible for linking your engine to your transaxle, might be damaged or misaligned. To fix a damaged belt, you’ll need to replace it entirely. A misaligned belt can be readjusted back onto the proper pulleys. Please note that examining and addressing this issue may require you to remove the mower deck or elevate a zero-turn mower.

Transmission Belt Complications

Should the issue persist, the next step is to check the transmission fluid. If the fluid level is low or non-existent, this could indicate a more severe problem—potential transaxle failure. In this case, we would advise seeking professional help from your local John Deere Service Center.

Always remember that professional assistance is available if required. This guide aims to help diagnose your mower’s immobility and ensure a smoother, more efficient mowing experience.

If you have questions about any of the products outlined above or are just more of a visual learner, head over to our YouTube channel and watch the video (also linked below)! Leave a comment or question and receive a personal reply from Brent himself, our resident John Deere expert. Be sure to subscribe!

How to Fix CRAFTSMAN Riding Lawn Mower Problems

CRAFTSMAN-riding gasoline-powered lawnmowers are fantastic for cutting larger expanses of grass, such as those found in golf courses or parks. Being able to drive the mower is much more fun and requires far less physical exertion than pushing a mower up and down in the blazing sun.

CRAFTSMAN Riding Lawn Mowers offer many advantages but do occasionally develop problems:

Engine won’t start

Blades won’t engage

Runs for a bit, then dies

Won’t cut lawn evenly

Won’t drive forward

Doesn’t steer correctly

Exhaust billows smoke

And more …

Engine Won’t Start

We all know the disappointment when you’re all “dressed up” and ready to tackle the first lawn-cutting exercise of the season, only to find that your trusty CRAFTSMAN riding mower won’t start.

The CRAFTSMAN riding mower is, of course, fitted with a gas engine which means several problems could be causing the engine not to start. The below covers the common reasons why the engine doesn’t start.

Solution 1: Drain and Replace Old Gas

Check that the gas tank contains fuel, especially if the mower has been standing for an extended period. Gasoline degrades over time and evaporates.

Old gas should be drained from the system and replaced with new to eliminate this problem.

Solution 2: Replace the Fuel Filter

Following the gas line from the gas fuel tank to the carburetor will lead you to the fuel filter. The filter may be dirty, restricting or preventing fuel from reaching the carburetor so the mower won’t start.

If the fuel filter is visibly dirty inside, replace the fuel filter to ensure the gasoline can pass through the filter.

Solution 3: Ensure All Safety Cutoff Switches Are Engaged

CRAFTSMAN riding mowers have two safety switches that ensure the mover won’t start accidentally. One switch is under the driver’s seat, and the foot brake controls the other.

Their design is such that the driver must be seated on the seat, and the brake must be depressed to disengage the safety switches for the mower to start. Standing next to the mower while trying to start the engine will not work.

Solution 4:Charge the Battery

All CRAFTSMAN riding mowers have a battery located under the driver’s seat to turn and start the engine. When turning the ignition key and the engine turns very slowly but won’t start, the battery is most likely discharged.

Turning on the ignition and hearing a clicking sound without the engine turning is a sure sign that the battery is drained and needs to be charged.

In both scenarios, the battery requires charging, or if the problem persists, the battery may need replacement.

Solution 5: Clean or Replace the Solenoid

The carburetor fuel solenoid is attached to the base of the carburetor. The carburetor controls the fuel and air mixture required for the engine to run. The solenoid is an electrically operated fuel supply and shut-off valve. When the valve doesn’t work, it prevents fuel from entering the carburetor.

Diagnosing if the solenoid is faulty is quickly done by getting an ear down close to the solenoid. A click sound will be heard when the key is turned on and off as the solenoid retracts and releases. If no sound is heard, the solenoid is likely faulty and requires replacement, or the mower won’t work.

The solenoid will need to be removed by unscrewing it with a spanner of the right size and cleaned or replaced if the cleaning doesn’t work.

Solution 6: Replace the Filter

The air filter is next to the carburetor and filters the air fed into the carb. When the air filter is filthy, it may get clogged up by dust particles. The clogged-up filter will prevent air from reaching the carburetor and the engine from starting.

The solution is to replace the filter with a new one.

Solution 7: Replace the Spark Plug

The spark plug performs the critical task of igniting the fuel in the cylinder head while the engine is running. The spark plug is constantly exposed to burning gas and oil residue; therefore, the spark plug can quickly become dirty.

Removing the spark plug is a simple exercise using a spark plug spanner. A dirty spark plug can be cleaned using a wire brush but will eventually need to be replaced. Instead, replace the spark plug to be sure it’s working well.

Blades Won’t Engage

Your CRAFTSMAN riding mower is running, you’ve reached the area that needs mowing, but now the blades won’t engage. What could be wrong?

We’ve found five possible causes for the blades not engaging with CRAFTSMAN riding mowers. These problems may differ depending on if your mower has a manual lever clutch or an electronic PTO clutch.

Solution 1: Replace the Electric PTO Clutch

Faulty PTO clutch. When power is supplied to the clutch, the clutch engages and turns the mower’s blades via the drive belt. When the PTO clutch doesn’t engage, the internal mechanism has failed.

The PTO clutch is not a repairable part as it’s a sealed unit, so it needs to be replaced.

Solution 2: Remove and Test Take-off Switch

The second reason the blades won’t engage on the electrically operated unit is a faulty power take-off switch. This switch is located on the dashboard of the mower and is usually yellow. Pulling the switch engages the blades, while pressing the switch disengages the blades.

Removing the switch and testing it for continuity using a multi-meter is the best to determine if the switch won’t work. If faulty, the switch would need to be replaced as you can’t repair it.

Solution 3: Replace Drive Belt

Before we deal with the manual clutch mowers, one common item between the electric clutch and manual version mowers is the drive belt.

The drive belt is located underneath the mower and connects the crankshaft to the mower blades via the clutch assembly.

The drive belt is a high-quality V belt, similar to those used in model car engines. When this belt becomes excessively worn or is damaged or cut, it can no longer drive the mower’s blades, which won’t work.

The drive belt must be replaced when damaged or worn out.

Solution 4: Replace Lever Mechanism Unit

CRAFTSMAN riding mowers fitted with a manual clutch can suffer the following failures over time that prevent the mower’s blades from engaging.

The clutch engages and disengages the blades on the manually operated version. The clutch is operated by pulling down a lever on the right of the dashboard. A cable connects the lever mechanism to the clutch located under the mower.

The lever mechanism in the dashboard can fail over time, making it impossible to retract the cable connected to the clutch.

A failed lever mechanism will require the replacement of the unit.

Solution 5: Replace Broken Clutch Cable

Broken manual clutch cable or spring: The cable, as mentioned earlier, connects the lever mechanism, and the clutch, along with its tensioner spring, is wearing parts, so it can fail with excessive use and eventually won’t work.

A broken or severely worn clutch cable and its accompanying tensioner spring must be replaced should they fail.

Runs for a Bit, Then Dies, Won’t Work

The CRAFTSMAN riding mower is reliable and generally doesn’t cause problems. Occasionally, you may find that your mower starts up and then dies. When you crank it, it starts, only to turn off again.

Solution

Briggs and Stratton’s engines used in CRAFTSMAN mowers are four-stroke engines, so they use unmixed fuel (no two-stroke oil required). They generally run very clean and shouldn’t develop any carburetor blockages.

Fuel starvation is the most likely cause of the engine starting and then stopping shortly after.

Assuming the fuel tank is sufficiently filled and contains fresh fuel. The motor dies because the fuel entering the carburetor flows in slower than the outflow of fuel into the engine; effectively, the carburetor runs dry, which causes the problem.

The cause is a blocked fuel line or clogged fuel filter. 10% Ethanol fuel is tough on rubber fuel hose and causes the fuel line to degrade internally. This degradation blocks or severely reduces fuel flow from the tank to the engine.

Replacing the fuel line and filter will restore the fuel flow to the motor and prevent the engine from turning off when you least need the problem.

Won’t Cut Lawn Evenly

Cutting a large section of lawn only to realize that you’ve cut a series of steps into the lawn’s surface can be disappointing. How does this happen?

Solution

An uneven cut results from the mower deck (cutting blades) not being set to the correct height, or your mower may have a deflated tire causing the problem.

A mower-cutting deck rides on a series of linkages. They allow the deck to be adjusted up and down to adjust the cutting depth.

An underinflated or flat tire can play havoc with the angle of the cutting blades. If the blades are not level with the ground and cut deeper on one side of the mower, it will result in an uneven cut. So make sure all the tires are inflated to the correct pressure.

Cutting deck adjustment is made through two adjustment bolts. One adjusts the height seen from the left and right of the deck, and the other changes the front and rear deck height. It’s quick and easy! We’ve attached the below YouTube video, which details how the adjustments are performed.

Won’t Drive Forward

Like so many other mechanical devices, excessive use of a CRAFTSMAN riding mower will eventually take its toll. Occasionally something may go wrong, preventing it from driving. The gear lever is one of the items on a mower that sees a lot of use as it’s constantly shifted between drive, neutral, and reverse.

Solution

The linkage joining the gear selection lever and the actual gearbox may go out of alignment or get clogged up with dirt, preventing the gear levers from traveling the entire distance to engage or disengage a gear. Of course, the gearbox could be faulty, but this is unlikely as they’re robustly built.

Following the gear level selector down below the right fender of the mower will reveal the linkages that would need adjustment when gear selection becomes difficult.

Given that the linkages vary from model to model, it may be necessary to enlist a professional. Alternatively, some trial-and-error adjustments may do the trick.

A build-up of dirt inside the linkages is a real problem. The underside of the mower is exposed to a lot of dust generated by the spinning blades.

Carefully removing the various parts of the gear selection linkage will reveal dirt that prevents the levers from shifting their entire length of travel, preventing the shifter from working. Removing the dirt will enable the gears to be selected and allow the mover to drive.

Doesn’t Steer Correctly

The CRAFTSMAN riding mower follows a traditional tractor design, having two driving wheels at the rear and two front wheels that provide steering by turning left and right. The driver operates a steering wheel precisely like you would when steering a vehicle.

Over time the steering mechanism of the CRAFTSMAN riding mower is prone to developing a problem with turning to the left but normally turns to the right. Fortunately, this is a pretty simple fix.

Solution

The CRAFTSMAN steering mechanism is pretty basic, consisting of a steering column housing a gear that connects to a gear plate. The gear plate connects the left and right front wheels via a metal rod or linkage. The gear plate rotates as you turn the steering, changing the wheels’ direction.

The steering column’s base gear plate is slotted to limit the wheel’s rotation to either side. Over time the slot located in the gear plate becomes clogged with dirt which is compressed into a solid mass inside the slot or cut out, causing left turns not to work.

The dirt build-up inside the slot limits the gear plate’s movement, limiting the wheels’ ability to turn. The plate design seems to create the problem when turning left only.

The gear plate needs to be removed to get the wheel turning again, which is more straightforward than it may sound. The dirt and grime build-up must be removed from the slot in the gear plate, and the area housing the plate must be cleaned. Once the dirt is removed, the steering mechanism will function.

Exhaust Billows Smoke

Even a great engine such as the ones used in the CRAFTSMAN riding mowers can develop a problem where white smoke starts billowing from the mower’s exhaust. The problem can become so bad that the engine won’t work.

Solution

Worn piston rings can cause the mower’s engine to billow smoke, but this tends to happen slowly over time. If a perfectly good running engine suddenly starts billowing smoke, the cause is likely a blown head gasket.

The head gasket seals the space between the cylinder head, which houses the valves, and the part of the engine housing the piston. When smoke starts billowing from the exhaust, it’s a sign that oil and even water are entering the combustion chamber, where the oil ignites and starts smoking.

Replacing the cylinder head is a task best left to a mechanic as additional damage, such as a cracked head, may have developed and would require identification and repair.

Vibrates a Lot When Mowing

Vibrations are common amongst riding mowers as they bump and grind their way. Excessive or new vibration is not good, meaning something has a problem.

Numerous problems can cause vibrations, but the most common is a blade or blades that have become unbalanced or, in older machines, a mandrel that’s gone faulty. The mandrel contains a shaft supported by bearings. The mandrel houses the blade on one end and a pulley around which the drive belt runs.

Numerous problems can cause vibrations, but the most common is a blade or blades that have become unbalanced or, in older machines, a mandrel that’s gone faulty. The mandrel contains a shaft supported by bearings. The mandrel houses the blade on one end and a pulley around which the drive belt runs.

Solution 1: Replace Worn or Damaged Blade

CRAFTSMAN blades are made of high-quality hardened steel, which lasts a long time. Blades take the brunt of the force when cutting grass; although one tries to avoid it, they strike a rock occasionally. The impact can bend or even break a blade piece, which can cause vibration.

The solution is to replace the damaged blade with a new blade. A replacement will stop the blade from vibrating.

Solution 2: Replace Worn or Damaged Mandrel

A worn or damaged mandrel can cause the mower to vibrate. Although mandrels are a sturdy kit, they can eventually wear and fail, causing vibrations.

The mandrel needs to be replaced to fix this vibration, per the YouTube video below.

How to Fix the Self-Propelled Lawn Mower Cable, step by step

A self-propelled lawnmower is a machine that performs drives itself. There is no need to push it. If you have a larger or more challenging yard, it can save you a lot of energy. For many users who don’t want to push their mowers around, the self-propelled lawnmower proves to be a great machine to cut their grass.

The drive cable from a self-propelled lawnmower is an important component that controls the transmission. A faulty drive cable can lead to a difficult-to-control lawnmower or even one that can not be controlled at all. When this is the case, it is probably time to replace the faulty drive cable with a new one. In this blog post, we will take you through the step-by-step procedure of a drive cable replacement.

How to fix the Self-Propelled Lawn Mower cable, step by step:

• Step 1: Disconnect the spark plug
• Step 2: Release the cable from the mower handle and drive control lever
• Step 3: Remove the drive cover using a screwdriver
• Step 4: With the drive cable released and the drive cover removed, take the drive cable out.
• Step 4: Install the new cable
• Step 6: Reinstall the drive cover carefully
• Step 7: Route the new drive cable around the engine properly.
• Step 8: Reconnect the spark plug and test run your self-propelled lawnmower
• 1 Preparation for the drive cable replacement
• 2 Steps to Follow for Drive Cable Replacement:

• 2.1 Step 1: Disconnect the Spark Plug
• 2.2 Step 2: Release the Cable from the Mower Handle and Drive Control Lever
• 2.3 Step 3: Remove the Drive Cover
• 2.4 Step 4: Remove the Cable
• 2.5 Step 5: Install the New Cable
• 2.6 Step 6: Reinstall the Drive Cover
• 2.7 Step 7: Route the New Drive Cable
• 2.8 Step 8: Reconnect the Spark Plug, and Test Run your Self-Propelled Lawnmower:

• 4.1 Where to buy a self-propelled lawnmower drive cable?
• 4.2 What does the bail of a self-propelled mower do?

Preparation for the drive cable replacement

This article will help you with the drive cable replacement for a self-propelled lawnmower. The general procedure is similar for most self-propelled lawnmower brands, but different models may have some parts in slightly different locations. Please consult the manual that came with your lawnmower for the most accurate information. If you do not have it, search online for it. With your brand and model number, it should be easy to find.

If the cable is difficult to move but still works ok you can try lubricating it first. Spray some lubrication on the inner cable, like WD40. Move the handle up and down so the inner will move. If you notice that, it helps repeat it again until it works fine. If that does not work, replace the cable.

Before starting with the job, it is a good idea to collect the various tools that you would need:

• Pair of work gloves for your safety from sharp edges
• A plastic bag that you would need to seal the gas tank to avoid fuel loss
• A wire cutter
• Small needle-nose pliers
• A screwdriver set

You can easily find these items at any local tool or hardware shop or order them online according to your comfort.

You also need a good-quality replacement drive cable. If you can find the part number of the current cable, it is easier to find the correct one. Always ensure that the cable is the correct length, shape and that both ends will fit.

Steps to Follow for Drive Cable Replacement:

Follow these steps to replace the self-propelled lawnmower cable:

Step 1: Disconnect the Spark Plug

Park your mower on an open flat area, turn it off, and let it cool down. Remove the key from the ignition switch and locate the spark plug. Disconnect the spark plug by disconnecting the spark plug lead. This ensures that the mower will not unintentionally start when working on or close to the moving parts

Step 2: Release the Cable from the Mower Handle and Drive Control Lever

The drive cable is routed over different parts in the mower and needs to be freed up. Here’s how:

The cable needs to be freed from the mower handle so that you can take it out. Please locate the cable clip, which will help you release the cable from the mower handle. The cable clip pivots upward.

The next step would be to release the zone control cable from the bail control bar. Consult the manual for the accurate location of the cable clip and the bail control bar.

Once this is done, locate the drive control lever. Then discharge the drive cable from it carefully. You can do this by depressing the release tap. With the release tap depressed, you will drag out the zone control clip of the cable.

The final step is to cut the cable ties. With the cable ties cut, you will be able to release the cable from the mower handle.

Step 3: Remove the Drive Cover

To remove the drive cable, the drive cover has to be removed first. Follow these steps to remove the drive cover:

For most lawnmowers, you have to tile the mower to remove the drive cover. To prevent gas loss in the tilted position, seal the gas tank with a plastic bag. Remove the fuel tank lid, put the plastic bag over the fuel tank opening, and reinstall the fuel tank lid. With this done, the fuel tank is secured. Or empty the gas tank.

Now tilt your self-propelled lawnmower to expose the drive cover. Lift the front wheels handling your self-propelled lawnmower with extreme care. You may use a hydraulic jack for this step if your mower is too heavy to be lifted by your hands. You should lift the mower enough to expose the bottom mounting screws.

These screws are holding the drive cover at the mower’s bottom. Remove these screws and discharge the mower handle. Bring the mower back to its upright position.

The next step is to release the top drive cover. For this, you need to remove the top mounting screws and discharge the height adjustment lever. With this done, you can pull off the drive cover with a little force.

Step 4: Remove the Cable

With the drive cover removed, the cable is ready to be removed. You can do this by freeing the cable’s end from the anchor post.

Once this is done, depress the release switch and pull the drive cable sheath out of the transmission lever. Now the drive cable is free from all the components it was connected to, so you can pull it out.

Pulling the released cable off won’t require much force, but it is still attached to some components if it is not coming out easily. So, instead of pulling on it with force, thoroughly go through the above steps to check if you missed a connection. Free the cable from that connection, and you will be able to take it out easily.

Step 5: Install the New Cable

Installing the new cable is simply the reverse process of removing the old one. First, connect the new cable’s end to the anchor post. Then push the new cable sheath over the transmission lever, and there you have it, a new drive cable is installed.

Step 6: Reinstall the Drive Cover

Put the drive cover back at its position and readjust the height adjustment lever. With this done, screw all the top mounting screws and make sure they are tight.

The bottom mounting screws need to be put back too. So, tilt the mower and tightly screw the bottom mounting screws. Then lower the mower. You can remove the plastic bag sealing of the gas tank now.

Step 7: Route the New Drive Cable

The new drive cable needs to be routed around the engine. For this, connect the zone control cable to the drive cable clip. Connect the bail control bar to the zone control cable. Then connect the new drive cable to the drive cable lever.

Snap the drive cable clip and connect the new drive cable to the handle by installing the new cable ties.

Step 8: Reconnect the Spark Plug, and Test Run your Self-Propelled Lawnmower:

Once you are done with the cable replacement procedure, you can reconnect the spark plug, and your mower is ready to go.

Start and run your mower and check the speed. If all works well, and you don’t observe a speed loss, you have successfully fixed the faulty drive cable issue.

Related Questions:

Where to buy a self-propelled lawnmower drive cable?

Lawnmower drive cables are usually available at lawnmower parts stores. Drive cables are also available at various websites such as eBay and Amazon. A drive cable will cost you between 10 to 25 dollars, depending on product quality. Ensure that the replacement-driven cable matches the one being replaced in dimensions, shape and has the correct cable endings. Also, ensure that the replacement drive cable is of good quality. Otherwise, it will fail soon, and you’ll have to replace it again.

What does the bail of a self-propelled mower do?

The bail or the handle of a self-propelled mower, when pressed, engages the drive system and starts the blades. Once the bail is pressed, the mower will take off and start cutting; the user will not have to push. All the user needs to do is to provide direction.

Final Remarks

Fixing the cable problem on your self-propelled lawnmower isn’t a troublesome assignment, especially if you know your way around. Replacing an old, loose, and broken drive cable will considerably increase your mower’s speed and efficiency. Remember that the replacement drive cable should match the one being replaced. Besides the step-by-step guidelines provides in this blog post, we would recommend you to consult your mower’s manufacturer manual too.