Honda lawn mower cleaning. Here’s What To Do If Your Lawn Mower Won’t Start

Learn the reasons why a lawn mower won’t start after winter or during peak season, and how to fix those problems.

Family Handyman

Introduction

Most of the time when a lawn mower won’t start the cause is a problem with the gas or the lawn mower carburetor.

What to Do if Your Lawn Mower Won’t Start

Whatever kind of lawn mower you’ve got, the last thing you want once winter finally lifts and spring has sprung is a lawn mower that won’t start.

If you’ve taken the proper steps to winterize your lawn mower, you’re far less likely to be dealing with such issues. It’s also why you should tune up your lawn mower at the start of every season. However, it’s not out of the ordinary to find your gas-powered lawn mower not starting from time to time, so it’s important to know why your lawn mower isn’t starting and how to fix it.

Project step-by-step (6)

Check the Gas Tank

Let’s start with the obvious. Before you have a heart attack pulling on the rip cord, you’ll want to check the fuel. Like any gasoline-powered engine, lawn mowers run out from time to time. Maybe you forgot it was running on fumes when you finished mowing last time. It sounds simple, but we’ve all overlooked the gas tank from time to time.

Even if there is gas in the mower, if the fuel’s been in there more than a month, that could be the problem. Gas sitting around too long in the tank can get contaminated with dirt and extra moisture.

So if your gasoline has been in the mower for more than month, drain the gas properly, dispose of it correctly, and fill up the mower with new gas. It may take quite a few pulls to suck the new gas into the lawn mower carburetor, so be prepared to clean and dry the plug a few more times.

Add fuel stabilizer when you fill up the tank to help protect the gasoline in there from dirt and moisture.

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Check the Spark Plug

Start by making sure the lawn mower spark plug cable is connected to the plug itself. It’s quite possible that it got pulled off there over the winter while the mower was being stored in the garage.

If that’s not the issue, the next step is to remove the spark plug to see if it’s wet. There’s no way the engine will start if it is. So clean the plug with carburetor cleaner and let it dry. Cleaning it with compressed air isn’t enough; you need a solvent to remove oil residue. If it’s really grimy and dirty, it might be best to change the spark plug.

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Check for Debris in the Mower Deck

Grass clippings can get clogged in the mower deck, which can prevent the blade from turning. This is a common problem if you’ve cut wet grass or let the lawn get especially long and bushy between cuttings. If the cord is hard to pull, that’s a good sign that there’s debris clogging up your mower’s deck.

This is a pretty easy problem to solve. With the mower off, flip it on its side or upside down and scrape out the gummed up grass clippings. Once that’s done, you can flip it back over and start it up again.

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Check the Air Filter

The lawn mower’s carburetor regulates the mix of gasoline and air going into the engine where it’s burned to create power. Before air goes into the carburetor it passes through the air filter which prevents dirt and debris from getting into it.

If the air filer is clogged or dirty, it throws the ratio out of whack. Sometimes that results in your lawn mower smoking, and sometimes it prevents it from starting entirely. So take a look at the air filter to see if it’s dirty. If so, you can clean it or just change it outright.

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Check the Carburetor

Another common reason for a lawn mower that won’t start is a clogged or dirty carburetor. It can also cause your mower to run rough or spew black smoke when you’re trying to cut the grass. If that’s the case, you may need to clean the carburetor.

To get to the carburetor, you’ll have to remove the air filter. Once that’s out of the way, you can remove the carburetor in order to clean it.

Once it’s out, check for corrosion. If you see chalky/powdery white corrosion like this, it’s probably better just to replace it. To clean it, take it apart and spray carburetor cleaner on the parts and inside the housing. After that, put the carburetor back together and reinstall it in the mower.

Check the Fuel Filter

Like the air filter, the fuel filter prevents dirt and debris from getting into the combustion chamber of your lawn mower’s engine, taking that stuff out before the gas gets mixed with air in the carburetor. Problems with the fuel filter might also result in the engine sputtering or rough idling, even before it gets to the point of preventing the mower from starting.

To start, tap the side of the carburetor to help the flow of gas. If that doesn’t work, you might have a clogged filter.

Not all lawn mowers have a fuel filter, but for the ones that do, it’s usually located in the fuel line or the fuel tank. To find out where the fuel filter is at, check your lawn mower’s owners manual, which will also tell you what type of filter it is.

If the filter is in the fuel tank, you’ll need to drain the gas from the mower into a drain pan, assuming you can’t run the engine until it’s out of gas. If the filter is in the fuel line, clamp off the fuel line before removing the filter. Once you have the filter off, you can check to see if it’s dirty and clogged by holding it up the light. If it is, install a new one. Make sure it works with this lawn mower maintenance checklist.

How To Clean A Carburetor On A Lawn Mower Without Removing It

Machines have a lot of fast-moving parts that work together for the machine to function.

Just like a car, a lawnmower has a machine called carburetor that is responsible for the movement of the blade that cuts the grass.

A carburetor is a device that injects air into the fuel to have internal combustion. The combustion is what will power the blades.

Carburetors are present in large machines like commercial planes and to small ones like your trusty lawnmower.

Today, we discuss how to clean the carburetor in your lawnmower without removing it. This can be a good option if you do not have the technical knowledge and the right tools to do a thorough cleaning which requires removing the carburetor from the machine.

After all, sometimes all it needs is just a bit of cleaning.

• 1 Types of lawnmowers
• 2 Common issues and symptoms of a faulty carburetor
• 3 Why you should not (yet) remove the carburetor when you clean it?
• 4 Essential tools you need
• 5 how to clean lawn mower carburetor Step-by-step

• 5.1 Step 1: Turn off the lawnmower
• 5.2 Step 2: Do an initial check-up
• 5.3 Step 3: Remove air filter then clean it
• 5.4 Step 4: Closely look at the insides with a flashlight or a headlamp
• 5.5 Step 5: Look at the connecting wires in the carburetor
• 5.6 Step 6: Remove all the dirt with an air-compressor gun
• 5.7 Step 7: Spray the insides with an aerosol cleaner
• 5.8 Step 8: Remove all the gunk and deposits manually
• 5.9 Step 9: Inspect everything before finishing

Types of lawnmowers

These are the usual types of lawnmowers you can see at your local hardware depot.

• Traditionalpush-reel lawnmower. This one does not use an engine but rather relies on the kinetic energy provided by the turning wheels. A set of 5 to 8 blades work together to provide a basic cut. Do not expect fast or precision cutting with this one.
• Walk behind lawnmower. This one is the most popular due to its efficiency. You just push the lawnmower towards the uncut grass and everything is cut nicely and evenly after. The blades are located at the bottom which is powered by a small carburetor.
• Ride-on lawmowers. This one is operated similar to a car or a golfcart. Instead of pushing it, you sit on the machine and steer it. Usually, this machine is used on stadiums and large greenfield which requires faster cutting without tiring the person.

Common issues and symptoms of a faulty carburetor

The issue with any gas-power machine is you should regularly use it but not overuse it. Leaving it unused for a long time can lead to complications.

Liquids inside may harden and cause blockage in some parts. The grease may get gunky and cause the moving parts to be stuck.

You will easily know when the carburetor is acting up when it shows the following signs:

• Weaker engine and performance. If you notice that your lawnmower cannot any more cut evenly or have a hard time cutting denser grasses, the carburetor is definitely in bad shape, and attend to it immediately.
• Emission of black smoke. This means that the carburetor is consuming unusually high amounts of fuel. You will end up spending more on gasoline. Also, exposure to black smoke could lead to respiratory and dermatological problems.
• Overheating. Usually, this means that there is a poor mix or ratio of air and fuel. The engine exerts more effort to work.
• Suddenly shutting down. Simply put, any lawnmower should have no problem being used for an hour or two. When it suddenly shutdowns, it is an obvious sign that your carburetor needs some cleaning or fixing.
• Jumpy starting. Whether it is started via a push-button or pulling a cord, a lawnmower that has a hard time starting means that the internal parts are not at their optimum status.

Now you know how to spot a faulty carburetor. Let us now talk about whether you should remove it from the lawmower or not.

Why you should not (yet) remove the carburetor when you clean it?

Before you do anything, you should assess your technical know-how with small machines. If you are a mechanic who deals with this problem regularly, then removing the carburetor and putting it back would be easy.

If you are just a casual homeowner, better keep it intact and clean it from there.

You may successfully remove it and clean it, but you may end up having a hard time returning it. What is a clean carburetor if you cannot use it anymore.

Essential tools you need

Before you start cleaning, take a look of everything to assess how you will proceed with the cleaning. If you see exposed wires, a rat may have chewed on it.

If you see patches of rust, the carburetor may have been exposed to water and was not dried out fast.

Things like these should be taken into account before you do anything whether it is just a simple cleanup or a full-on disassembly.

Remember, if you lawnmower is still under warranty, make sure to ask the company whether your machine is eligible for a clean-up.

Step 2.1: Take photos of the carburetor before you do anything

You may not see this step in other guides but you need to have photos of the machine before you do anything.

The reason for this is to have a reference later on what the machine should look like when you put everything back in case you fumble in putting back the parts together after.

Also, this is good for warranty purposes to show that your machine has acquired damage and unusual wear-and-tear even under normal usage.

Step 3: Remove air filter then clean it

All the air that is sucked inside goes through the air filter. Unless you are using your lawnmower in a clean and empty room, your filter will have a lot of dirt and sediments on it.

You can just use a damp rag if there is minimal dirt but use the blow function of your vaccuum to remove the dirt.

If the air filter on your lawnmower can be removed, it is better to remove it and clean it on its own.

This way, you can clean both sides and leave it for it to dry. You can now proceed without waiting for the air filter to dry.

Step 4: Closely look at the insides with a flashlight or a headlamp

Other people skip this and just glance at the internals. With a flaslight or a headlamp, you can FOCUS on all the parts one-by-one to you know what you are dealing with.

You do not want any surprises like an exposed wire which you can leave unattended if you have not seen it with a flashlight.

Also, most carburetors have a dark paint or gets dark over time. You miss out the rust, moss, or other discoloration inside if you do not use a flashlight.

Step 5: Look at the connecting wires in the carburetor

Wires are important, but they are delicate. Any slight tug of it could snap it and render the machine useless (for a while until you get a replacement wire or patch it up).

It can also cause serious injuries when an exposed wire touches another wire or some dried grass (which are flammable).

This is also a good practice in being a better homeowner and a “DIY mechanic.” You will be familiarized with how a machine works.

After all, once you understand the machine of a lawnmower, you will be familiarized with other machines like electric generators, motorbikes, and electric fans.

A common issue of a failing carburetor are old spark plugs. The coating may have worn out due to aging and does not receive electricity optimally.

Step 6: Remove all the dirt with an air-compressor gun

Over the days (or months) you have used with your lawnmower, there could be a build up of dirt and gunk inside and outside the carburetor.

Some are placed in hard-to-reach areas so instead of squeezing your hands in, why not use an air-compressor gun?You can easily dislodge any debris with this tool. However, you should not use it with the highest setting or even use an industrial air-compressor gun that are meant for heavier cleaning.

Step 7: Spray the insides with an aerosol cleaner

Do not be confused to use water in cleaning your carburetor. That would just ruin the machine for good. An aerosol cleaner is a machine-friendly that sticks to the surface for longer protection.

Now, this step requires turning on the machine. The reason is you need the cleaner to go through the machine so that even the internal parts are cleaned.

On the center of the carburetor, spray in pulse the lawn mower carburetor cleaner like this one while the machine is running. You can do this in 10-15 pulses and leave the machine running for a minute to ensure maximum coverage.

Turn off the engine and spray the carburetor’s throat thoroughly. The lower plate will also have dirt so give it a good spray after.

Step 8: Remove all the gunk and deposits manually

After blowing off the dirt with the air-compressor gun and spraying the aerosol cleaner, now is the time to use your hands and manually clean off leftover dirt.

Make sure your rag is damp, and not soaking wet, to easily wipe off any solid dirt. Also, after every wipe of a major dirt, rinse the rag and squeeze out the water to avoid spreading the dirt further on the carburetor.

Step 9: Inspect everything before finishing

When everything is done, make sure to check everything and spot-check important parts using a flashlight. You can see the photos you have taken earlier to see if everything is matching.

Test it and let it run for 5 to 10 minutes to see if anything has been affected by the cleaning. Usually, you will notice a smoother start (no chugging sound or shaking).

Additional tips

Here are some final tips for you to consider before cleaning the carburetor

• Maintain a regular schedule of partial cleaning (like this article is saying) and deep cleaning (removing the carburetor).
• Before you take the lawn mower that won’t start for repair or cleaning to the shop, make sure you know what the problem is. Some shops will exaggerate the problem and ask for a more expensive service fee.
• Use the right aerosol cleaner. A general purpose cleaner is fine in most situations but if you want the best cleaner, get the one dedicated to lawnmowers or small carburetors. The cleaner for your over or your bathroom’s disinfectant spray are not suitable for this type of cleaning.

Conclusion

At first, cleaning the carburetor can be intimidating. After all, not everyone is proficient with machines or have previous experience with it. This guide is to give you an overview of how the process works.

However, as some lawnmowers are built differently and some have different usage, the process may vary.

In some gas-powered weed eater trimmers, you may have the same issues. So you can do the same checks like the above. The differences may be that you have a 2-cycle or 4-cycle engine.

Always remember that cleaning without removing the carburetor is not a replacement to deep-cleaning the carburetor by removing it and even dismantling the parts.

Maintain your lawnmower and it will serve you and even your kids well.

Lindsey Hyland grew up in Arizona where she studied at the University of Arizona’s Controlled Environment Agriculture Center. She continued her gardening education by working on organic farms in both rural and urban settings. She started UrbanOrganicYield.com to share gardening tips and tactics. She’s happy to talk about succulents and houseplants or vegetables and herbs – or just about anything in a backyard garden or hydroponics garden.

How to Clean an Air Filter on a Lawn Mower

Most lawn mowers are rugged machines that can run for years. But don’t make the mistake of thinking just because a mower is running, that means it’s performing well. Often, that’s not the case. Maintenance is crucial to keeping your mower running optimally, and I recommend that most homeowners complete annual maintenance twice a year – in the spring to get your mower ready for the season, and in the late fall to winterize your mower and prepare it for storage. Today, I’ll explain how to clean an air filter on a lawn mower, and why you absolutely need to do it regularly.

I’ll also explain why annual replacement of your mower’s air filter is a simple, low-cost DIY project anyone can (and everyone should) do.

Why Your Mower’s Air Filter is Important

The air filter is one of the most important parts of your lawn mower when it comes to day-to-day performance.

If your mower starts but isn’t cutting grass properly, or seems to get bogged down easily there’s a good chance the air filter is causing the problem.

All combustion engines need air to function, so sucking in air is an essential part of the process.

Problems happen if dirt and debris gets pulled into the engine along with the air. When this happens it can lead to failures and your lawnmower not starting.

Air filters prevent this issue by allowing air to pass through to your engine while blocking all the debris, such as grass clippings, twigs, sticks, leaves, dust, and dirt.

Still, all air filters become dirty or blocked over time (that just means they’re doin their job). When they get dirty and clogged less air gets to the engine, causing problems. That’s why keeping your mower’s air filter clean is an important part of mower maintenance.

The good news? Cleaning or replacing an air filter is one of the easiest mower maintenance tasks.

Depending on your type of mower, the air filter could be located on the side or top of the engine, and it will be pretty easy to recognize.

In all models, the filter is easy to access, though it may be behind a plastic cover.

Usually it has a single screw-on or snap hinge cover holding it in place.

Below, I’ll explain what you need to know about how to clean and replace your mower’s air filter.

I’ll talk about air filter types, how to find out which kind your mower has, where to find the filter, and how to clean it.

Types of Lawn Mower Air Filters

There are several different types and styles of air filters used in lawn mowers, and it’s important that you identify what kind of air filter your mower uses so you can clean and service it properly.

Usually mowers have either a:

Below I’ll tell you a bit about each type of mower air filter.

Paper Air Filter

A paper filter looks like a paper accordion. It works by having perforated paper with tiny holes in a folded construction.

Air can pass through the microscopic holes, but debris cannot.

While you may be able to clean your paper filter, you’ll definitely need to change it for every 25 to 50 hours of mowing use.

On my self-propelled Honda mower, the paper air filter is located on the side of the mower’s engine under a rectangular plastic cap that is pressure-mounted and easy to remove.

The filter inside is just held in place with the housing, so I take out the filter, shake it gently and blow air across the paper fins to remove any big debris particles prior to use.

A replacement paper lawnmower filter costs about 8 and you can find one that will fit at just about any local hardware or big box store.

TIP: If your mower is difficult to start, you can remove the paper air filter and spray Gumout starting fluid into the hole behind the filter just before you mow. Once you’ve sprayed some in, replace the air filter and casing and start up your mower with the pull cord. This will help your mower start up easily and will also keep your carburetor clean and free of corrosion. One can will last you a few years.

Foam Filter

A “foam only” filter works in a similar way to paper but has a different filtration material. A foam piece coated in motor oil traps all types of dirt, dust, and debris.

The motor oil is an important part of the system because it stops the smallest of dirt particles. Without motor oil, the foam filter will only capture the largest debris, and you’ll end up with a dirty carburetor that needs to be removed and cleaned.

If your mower has a foam air filter, it is essential to re-coat the filter with motor oil every three months or 25 hours of use.

Combination Filter

Combination filters are the best air filters in the mowing world because they combine foam and paper elements to keep your engine running clean.

The foam acts as a pre-barrier for the paper element, helping to add more life to the paper (which is more expensive to replace).

Because air passes through two layers of filtration, it is significantly cleaner when it reaches the engine.

How to Replace a Lawn Mower Air Filter

Replacing a lawn mower air filter is simple and easy.

• Locate the air filter housing on your lawn mower. The location will depend on the mower type. For example, on a tractor mower you will need to lift the engine cover, while a walk-behind mower usually has the engine exposed. The air filter is typically on top, on the front, or the side of the engine, located in a plastic or metal housing.
• Open the housing by either unscrewing the lid or opening a hinge, depending on your mower.
• If your lawn mower has a foam pre-filter, remove it, and inspect it. Sometimes cleaning the foam and re-covering it in motor oil is fine. However, if the foam has become stained, brittle, or hard, it needs to be replaced.
• Moving on to the main filter. If your air filter is paper, give it a gentle tap to remove excess dirt. If the paper is blocked, then the filter must be replaced. To check, hold the filter up to a light or the sun. For foam air filters, again check for staining, hardness, or general disrepair before replacing it.
• Dispose of the old air filter.
• Insert your new air filter into the housing after cleaning the assembly.
• Reattach any protective layers and then close the housing lid. During the entire replacement process, be careful not to damage or pinch the new air filter. Any holes in the filter will allow large debris to pass into the engine.

Replacing Different Types of Lawn Mower Air Filters

As well as foam, paper, and mixed filters, it’s also worth noting that some air filters are reusable while others are disposable.

What this essentially means is that you can clean some filters for reuse, while others must be replaced and cannot be cleaned. In fact, doing so may degrade their performance and put your mower at risk.

In general, paper air filters are disposable and foam lawn mower filters are reusable.

You can gently blow on and partially clean off a paper air filter mid-season, but I don’t recommend using compressed air on them – if it looks too dirty to function well, just buy a new one for under ten bucks.

It’s a small price to pay to keep your mower working well for years to come.

Why Air Filter Maintenance is Important

Your lawn mower won’t run (for long) without an air filter.

Engines need air but cannot deal with the debris and other items that may end up lodged inside if there’s no filter.

Air filters do all the dirty work to ensure your lawn mower runs seamlessly. However, occasionally you need to clean or replace the filter.

If enough debris gets into your engine, it’ll get clogged and won’t perform as it should.

That’s why regularly replacing the air filter is a wise move if you want to your mower to perform well for years to come.

When to Change the Air Filter on Your Mower

A common question is how often the air filter on a lawn mower needs to be changed. Most experts recommend that you check your mower’s owner manual for specific guidance that applies to your specific mower.

But you’re on the internet looking for the answer you need now.

My Recommendation

How often you need to change the filter on your mower can depend on a variety of factors, such as how often you use your lawn mower and in what conditions.

Needless to say, mowing three times a week in a dusty location is going to mean you need to change the air filter more frequently.

And when you’re mulching leaves in your yard there will be more dust kicked up and your filter will be working overtime.

Most homeowners can usually get away with changing their filters once a year. This means changing the filter around every 25 to 50 hours of use.

Whether you have a foam filter or a paper one, you can replace it with a new one by yourself, and it will take you 15 minutes (and probably much less) in your garage.

Replacing my paper air filter requires no tools and about 20 seconds of my time (including throwing the old one in the trash).

My best advice is to replace your filter annually, and visually inspect it before every mow.

Clean Your Lawn Mower Air Filter Regularly, Replace Annually

Time goes by quickly, so make sure to keep track of when you last changed your mower’s air filter.

As part of my spring mower maintenance I always install a brand new air filter in my mower.

But if you haven’t changed or cleaned your mower’s air filter, it’s a low-cost and easy fix to get your mower running like new again.

Hopefully this article has given you the information you need to keep on top of it going forward!

How to Clean the Underside Deck of Your Lawn Mower

David Beaulieu is a landscaping expert and plant photographer, with 20 years of experience.

It’s no surprise that there are many opinions on how often a lawn mower should be cleaned. This is largely a matter of personal preference—just as some people sweep and wash a kitchen floor daily, others may only do it weekly or even just monthly. The same holds true for outdoor lawn and garden tools. Some people with a robust neatness gene may prefer to clean lawn mowers and other garden tools thoroughly after every use, while others find no need to be quite so meticulous.

Even for people who routinely wipe down and brush off the top surfaces of a lawn mower, not everybody will turn the machine upside down and carefully clean off grass clippings and grime from the underside of the mower—the area known as the deck. Among those given to debating the issue, the question has three parts:

• Is it necessary to clean the mower deck? If so, why?
• If it is necessary, how often should I clean the mower deck?
• And how exactly should I do it?

A related but different question has to do with what TLC you should give the lawn mower when you are ready to put it away for another year.

Yes, the Lawn Mower Deck Should Be Cleaned

The reason for cleaning the deck—the enclosed housing beneath the mower, where the blade spins— has nothing to do with being neat (unless you are the type who takes pride in showing guests your power equipment). Cleaning will actually help lawn mower performance by allowing the blades of grass to stand fully upright as the blade spins to trim them. A lawn mower deck heavily encrusted with dried grass clippings may deflect the grass blades so they can’t be cut efficiently, and in worse-case scenarios, the dried grass buildup can even hinder the rotation of the blade itself.

Keeping the bottom deck clean also helps minimize the spread of lawn diseases. Remember, when you cut blades of grass, you are essentially opening up wounds that make the grass susceptible to problems such as fungal disease, which may be lurking in the grass buildup on the bottom of the mower.

Do It at Least Twice Each Mowing Season

There is no rule about how often to clean your mower deck, but it really should be done at least twice each mowing season. You may need to do it more often if you’re forced to mow very long grass or if you have to mow it while it is wet.

It’s also wise to clean the deck of your mower at the end of the season, before putting the mower away for the winter. It’s unpleasant to leave grasses to rot and mold on the bottom of the mower over winter, especially if you are storing your mower in an attached garage or basement. Left to harden over winter, your spring cleaning chores will be all the harder.

How to Clean the Deck on a Lawn Mower

To clean the deck of a lawn mower, follow these steps:

• Empty the gas tank (or run the mower until the tank is empty), then disconnect the spark plug wire.
• Stand the mower up on its side.
• Take a garden hose and spray the deck at full blast. This will loosen some of the dirt and caked-on grass clippings.
• Scrub off the rest of the soil, using a brush, soap, and hot water.
• Rinse, then dry the metal deck of your mower.

Tip: To reduce future incidences of grass clippings sticking to the lawn mower’s underside, lightly spray some vegetable oil onto the deck after cleaning it.

End-of-Season Maintenance

When the mowing season is over in the fall, empty the gas tank by allowing the lawnmower to run until its gas tank is empty. Leave the lawn mower’s tank empty until spring comes, if possible. When old gas lies around in the lawn mower all winter, it becomes gummy and may foul the engine. If you must leave the tank full of gas, add a can of fuel stabilizer to the mower tank, then run the engine for a few minutes to distribute the stabilizer through the fuel lines and engine cylinder before putting the mower away.

After dealing with the gas, drain the oil crankcase and refill it with fresh oil.

These steps should make your lawn mower ready to go when you pull it out of the garage or shed next spring. But if you do end up having trouble starting your lawn mower, it may be because you need to tune up your machine, which is a fairly easy DIY task.

The Best Lawn Mowers of 2023

Recommendations are independently chosen by Reviewed’s editors. Purchases made through the links below may earn us and our publishing partners a commission. were accurate at the time this article was published but may change over time.

Honda HRX217VKA

The Honda HRX217VKA is powerful, heavy and ideal for larger lawns. Read

Ego Power LM2135SP

This mower is powerful, comfortable, and a joy to use. It performed extremely well mulching and driving itself uphill. Read

Honda HRN216VKA

Honda has produced superior power equipment for many years and this mower, which operates with rear-wheel drive, is no exception. Read

Kobalt KM 5080-06

The electric Kobalt KM 5080-06 was flexible and easy to operate, and can run bagged or bagless. Read

Hart HLPM061US

The Hart HLPM061US performed well across terrains and has a simple to use speed control. Read

Cons

Until just a few short years ago, gas lawn mowers were king. As more consumers are seeking eco-friendly cars, homes, and, yes, power equipment, advanced battery technology answers the call.

Today, consumers can drive an electric car, thrive in a solar-powered home and maintain their property with battery-powered equipment. But are the new electric push lawn mowers as good as the old internal combustion mowers? We decided to find out.

We tested gasoline, electric-corded, and battery-powered lawn mowers from the leading brands. We were eager to see if the battery-powered mowers could handle a large yard as well as the tried-and-true gasoline models. We weren’t disappointed. The Honda HRX217VKA (available at Amazon) came out on top as Best Overall, edging out its predecessor and our previous winner, the Honda HRN216VKA.

For the non-gasoline mowers, the Ego Power LM2135SP (available at Walmart) is our choice for Best Electric Lawn Mower. This mower set-up was quick, and it handled our testing well. The Ego Power also includes features not found on similar electric models.

The Honda HRX217VKA was a pleasure to use.

• Power source: Gas
• Self-propelled: Yes
• Cutting options: Bag, Mulch, Rear discharge or shred leaves
• Drive: Rear-wheel
• Weight: 113 lbs

Quiet and powerful, the Honda HRX217VKA 21-inch NeXite lawn mower is the one to have for larger spaces. It is not designed for small yards, and you won’t be darting in and out of flower beds and shrubbery.

It is a pleasure to use. We had tested Honda mowers before and were familiar with their operation and overall product quality. The HRX217VKA did not disappoint. Easy to assemble and set up right out of the box, it started on the first pull of the cord.

Right away you can feel the heft of this mower with its innovative NeXite deck and powerful motor. It’s heavier than most mowers, but it feels planted on the lawn and tracks perfectly. It’s a mower for large lawns, and it makes the most difficult cuts a breeze.

With its 200cc motor and Select Drive Control, this mower easily cuts, bags and mulches the heaviest grass with ease. The Select Drive Control is almost intuitive as it lets you adjust the walking speed with a variety of settings.

The controls on the mower are large and easy to use. You can set the mower to bag or mulch or anywhere in between. Its user-friendly platform is clearly marked. You will use this lawn mower for years and years to come.

Cons

The Ego Power LM2135SP is the best electric lawn mower we’ve tested.

• Power source: Electric/battery
• Self-propelled: Yes
• Cutting options: Bag, Mulch, Side discharge
• Drive: Rear-wheel
• Weight: 88 lbs

Until a few years ago, those who preferred not to buy an internal combustion mower had little choice. But advanced battery technology has finally arrived and the benefits can readily be seen in the Ego Power LM2135SP, a 21-inch self-propelled electric mower. This cordless mower with a cutting width of 21 inches utilizes a 56-volt lithium ion battery to power through up to 60 minutes of lawn cutting.

The Ego Power is powerful, comfortable, and a joy to use. Even though the battery only lasted about an hour, the mower performed extremely well mulching and driving itself uphill. It has plenty of torque and is capable of doing anything a gasoline-powered mower can do. It is clean, easy to use, and efficient.

The set-up on this mower was the easiest of the bunch. The handle slides and folds across the mower with ease, making storage a snap. Adjusting it to a personal height takes seconds.

A quick 50-minute charge on the battery and you’re ready to go. The battery charger even has a cooling fan that improves charging times and keeps the battery cool.

Like some of our other mowers, the Ego Power has twin blades that improve mulching and keep the trips to empty the rear bag to a minimum. Cutting height is achieved with one easy-to-access lever.

Operation is straightforward, and the composite deck makes the mower light and easy to maneuver around yard obstacles. Simply depress the power button, pull the green handle and the blades begin to spin. Dual buttons on the handle make engaging the self-propel feature safe and comfortable.

The Ego Power comes with LED headlights for convenience, and it was the only mower we tested that could propel itself when the blades were not spinning. This was a nice feature that eliminated pushing the mower back to the garage.

Other Lawn Mowers We Tested

Previously our pick for best lawn mower, the Honda HRN216VKA is a 21-inch self-propelled gas mower that’s a great choice for any yard. Honda has produced superior power equipment for many years, and this mower, which operates with rear-wheel drive, is no exception. It can handle the toughest lawns with ease and won’t take up much room in the garage.

The set-up was easy and the mower started on the first pull. Its smooth engine is quieter than the other gasoline mowers, and it has more than enough power to cut and mulch the grass even while going uphill.

The Honda has a stacked and offset blade design that produces smaller clippings, which allows for better mulching and bagging. This means more efficient cutting and fewer stops to empty the grass bag. The bagging and mulching options can be easily and safely selected, once the mower is off, by using one lever on the mowing deck.

The innovative self-propel system is comfortable on the hands, provides adequate speed control, and can even be adjusted for those who are taller or shorter. Folding the handle for storage can be done quickly. This Honda lawn mower even has a gas shut-off valve for off-season storage.

Cons

• Power source: Electric/battery
• Self-propelled: No
• Cutting options: Bag, Mulch, Side discharge
• Drive: Rear-wheel
• Weight: 66 lbs

The Kobalt 80V 21-inch electric mower is a great choice for anyone that wants an affordable, flexible, compact mower that is easy to maneuver and doesn’t require extension cords or gas cans. The mower is strong enough to chop through thick grass, and offers a highly adjustable cutting height.

At 66 pounds it is very easy to operate, with the ability to go bagged or bagless, and you can fold up the push handle for compact storage.

The main draw here is the 80V battery system, which gives you an hour of runtime in our testing, enough to cut about 7,500 square feet on a full charge. It also works in a variety of other Kobalt tools, and spares will run you right around 150. Charging the battery takes around 45 minutes when it’s dead, and it just pops into the battery slot and the mower can turn on with a press of a button if the safety key is inserted—much easier than having to use a traditional pull start.

Overall if you need a nice, basic mower to get the job done and want to go cordless, this is an excellent choice. It cuts clean lines, it’s easy to use, it can handle most lawns with ease, and the light weight makes it much easier to move up and around slopes and hills.

Especially if you’re planning to invest in a range of electric tools, this is a good system to buy into.

Cons

• Power source: Electric/battery
• Self-propelled: Yes
• Cutting options: Bag, Mulch, Side discharge
• Drive: All-wheel
• Weight: 89.5 lbs

This Hart lawnmower was a pleasant surprise.

After removing it from the box and charging the batteries, we fired it up and took it out to the thick, lush grass.

It performed beautifully; its powerful electric motor cut through the lawn with ease and even increased its revolutions when we cut thicker grass. This mower easily handles a larger lawn.

The Hart mower moved with power and confidence through the lawn, and the simple-to-use speed control was right there at your fingertips. While our winning Honda gas mower has a sophisticated Select Drive System, the Hart’s simple slide bar works as well or better.

This excellent lawnmower has the power and convenience of mowers costing much more.

Cons

The Toro is a worthy competitor to the top-ranking mowers on this list.

This Toro lawn mower has the largest cutting area at 22 inches, and it is powerful and comfortable to use, thanks to its Personal Pace self-propel system.

To engage the self-propel, simply push the lever forward a bit and the mower begins to move forward, push it a little more and the mower moves faster. After a couple of rows of cutting, you will see how easy it is to regulate speed. This system is not as intuitive as some of the others, but it still works quite well.

Another great feature: The Toro has Briggs and Stratton’s check-don’t-change oil system that never requires an oil change.

Storage is also a snap as the handle folds down and the mower can be stored vertically.

Cons

• Power source: Electric/battery
• Self-propelled: No
• Cutting options: Bag, Mulch, Rear discharge
• Drive: Rear-wheel
• Weight: 58 lbs

At just 58 pounds, this mower makes cutting small lawns a lot of fun. The rear discharge chute allows you trim close to trees, beds, and shrubbery. I found myself zipping around obstacles using only one hand.

This is a simple machine with one battery in the center. Charging time is quick, and once the battery is in you’re on your way.

This is not a lawn mower for the back 40. With a 20-inch cut and a small electric motor, it is just not capable of handling larger lawns. But for most mid to small yards, this mower can clean up the area in no time.

Light and easy to store, this is the perfect mower to keep a lawn looking great.

Cons

• Power source: Electric/battery
• Self-propelled: Yes
• Cutting options: Bag, Mulch, Side discharge
• Drive: Rear-wheel
• Weight: 78 lbs

The 21-inch Ryobi RY401150 40-volt brushless mower set up quickly and easily right out of the box. It includes double blades and cuts clean and clear.

This mower comes with two batteries that can be installed in the top of the machine. One notable drawback is that only one battery powers the mower at a time—cut your grass for approximately 30 minutes and when the first battery is depleted, you stop and move a switch to engage the second battery. Ryobi says that the batteries will last for 70 minutes, but stopping to change batteries seems counterproductive.

Otherwise, the mower performed well and completed all of the tests. It has a one-lever height adjustment and is light enough to maneuver around obstacles. It has plenty of power and handled the hill with little strain.

While both the Ego Power and Ryobi were solid performers on the electric front, the Ryobi was let down by its self-propel controls. The controls are located under the bar, but the lever is vague and unresponsive. Because the lever is designed for thumbs only, you need to push the lever in an awkward manner to get the mower up to speed.

Cons

• Power source: Electric/corded
• Self-propelled: No
• Cutting options: Bag, Mulch, Side discharge
• Drive: Rear-wheel
• Weight: 65 lbs

For a corded mower, the Greenworks 25022 lawn mower performed quite well. The set-up was easy, and once it was plugged in, it started right up.

Of course, before you use the mower there is the time-consuming task of unearthing your extension cord, unraveling it, and finding a suitable outdoor plug. Once plugged in, the mower embraces its purpose with ease.

It has a powerful 12-amp electric motor that may not conquer larger lawns, but is perfect for smaller yards and trimming duties. Not to mention it offers clean and even mowing.

Not being self-propelled, it takes some effort to push the lawn mower and cord uphill and then navigate a path back so as to not cut your cord.

Its small size makes storage a breeze.

Cons

The 14-inch Sun Joe MJ401E lawn mower is the easiest to store. Its diminutive size makes it the perfect lawn mower for small yards and trimming duties. It’s light enough to pick up and move, and it comes with an easy-to-use bagging system.

Still, this is not a lawn mower for cutting the typical suburban lawn, as its lightweight, short wheel base and small wheels make it a little unstable over roots and ruts.

Of all of the lawnmowers tested, the Sun Joe provided the most difficulty when it came time to adjust the height of the blades. The mower utilizes solid axles, front and rear, and the axles are located in a three-notch system under the mower. To change the height of the cut, you need to pull the spring-loaded axles from their positions and move them up or down. It’s a challenging exercise.

The Sun Joe is corded, so cutting area is limited. To its credit, it’s powerful enough when running, but the limited scope means you will have a hard time tackling an entire yard.

Cons

The Craftsman M220 is one of the more cumbersome mowers we’ve tested. Set up was more involved—to adjust it to my height I had to first kneel on the floor and remove two fasteners from the bottom of the handle and then pull the handle out of the body. Another two fasteners at the base of the handle allowed me to set the handle angle. The better mowers have release buttons and adjusting levers that allow the operator to make these adjustments quickly and safely while standing.

The mower started on the first pull and seemed to have enough power to tackle any lawn. However, the two levers on top of the handle—one to start and one for speed of self-propulsion—are difficult to operate. Both are difficult to grab if your hands are small to medium, and the levers are too far from the handle for comfortable operation. They’re also not intuitively placed; you have to look each time you make a pass.

The biggest disadvantage of this mower is that it is equipped with front-wheel drive. When self-propelled mowers first came out many years ago, a front-drive system was easy for manufacturers to design and implement and the homeowner didn’t have to push dead weight. The design worked for many years because there was nothing else. But over the years rear-drive systems were developed and it produced a more balanced, more comfortable cutting experience.

When cutting a lawn, the operator naturally has some weight on the handle. Add to this the weight of the grass in the bag off the back of the mower and you have a very light front end. Because the weight of the mower is not over the wheels, the front wheels tend to spin and grasp through each pass. This results in uneven lines, a hard to control mower (especially on a bumpy terrain), premature wearing out of the plastic front wheels, and difficulty trying to trim around obstacles. This antiquated front drive system really lets this mower down.

Cons

• Controls are cumbersome
• Front Drive System limits control and comfort
• Not nimble around obstacles

How We Tested Lawn Mowers

The Testers

We spent the summer mowing a half-acre New England lawn, over and over again.

Kevin Kavanaugh is a retired public school teacher and a product tester for Reviewed. Kevin has been cutting lawns for just about 50 years. He has always been intrigued by all things mechanical, be it watches, power equipment, vintage bicycles, or classic cars.

Ray Lane is a retired supermarket store manager, avid golfer, and product tester for Reviewed. His lawn is the envy of Cumberland, Rhode Island, and he has used several push mowers over the years. At 83 years of age, his input on the mowers was critical, specifically when evaluating ease of starting, maneuverability, and safety.

The Tests

We tested lawn mowers on both flat land and hills to test maneuverability and power.

After ordering from retailers like Lowe’s and The Home Depot, we assembled each mower and took note of the ease of the set up and how quickly we could adjust the handle to our preference. We then added gasoline, a battery, or an electrical cord to get the mower ready. We evaluated at the ease of setting the cutting height, first testing a high cutting height and then a lower one.

We took each mower on a few passes of an uncut half-acre lawn, measuring approximately 22,000 square feet, noting how it cut at a high height and a lower height while we monitored both the bagging and mulching features. Then we took each mower up and down a grassy hill to see how they performed. Our final test was testing storage capability.

What You Should Know About Lawn Mowers

Self-propelled lawn mowers can take some of the effort out of walk-behind mowing.

There are two basic types of walk-behind mowers: push and self-propelled.

The push type of mower is usually smaller, lighter, and easier to store. They are used primarily for smaller, level lawns. They are perfect for cleaning up areas that larger riding lawn mowers may miss. They can be run by gasoline, cords, or battery.

Self-propelled lawn mowers usually have a larger cutting diameter and can move on their own through operator controls. These mowers can also be powered by gasoline, cords, or battery. Since they take the brunt of the pushing away, self-propelled mowers are perfect for larger lawns up to a half-acre, and they can easily handle hills and sloped lawns. These self-propelled mowers aren’t fully robotic lawn mowers so you still have to do some work guiding them around your yard.

What Is A Self-propelled Lawn Mower?

The first self-propelled lawn mowers started to appear in the late-1960s. As suburbia grew and lawns got larger, pushing a heavy steel mower around on a summer afternoon wasn’t what most people wanted to be doing.

The first self-propelled mowers had primitive front-wheel drive systems that worked well enough, but the mowers often moved along too slowly. Sure, you weren’t pushing but you were caught in a slow-moving lawn-cutting procession. Early mowers either moved too slowly or too fast to match a natural walking speed.

Today’s mowers offer a much better propulsion system. The Honda NeXite Variable Speed 4-in-1 Gas Walk Behind Self-propelled Mower with Select Drive Control, for example, allows a variety of walking speed settings. Owners can literally dial in their preferred walking speed so that they become one with the mower, not being pulled and not having to push.

The Ego Power Select Cut 56-Volt Brushless 21-in Self-propelled Cordless Electric Lawn Mower even allows the operator to drive out to the lawn without the blades turning. That is a great feature.

Today’s self-propelled mowers reduce operator fatigue and make cutting the grass easier than years ago. Self-propelled mowers make cutting on hills safer and more efficient. And with modern speed options they make a summertime chore a little more enjoyable.

Gasoline, Corded Electric, or Battery—Which Lawn Mower is Right for You?

Battery-powered lawn mowers can be powerful and efficient.

Gasoline

Gasoline-powered lawnmowers have kept lawns manicured for decades. They are powerful, reliable, and affordable, and come with features such as self-propelled movement, mulching features, and self-cleaning availability. They are powerful enough for large lawn care jobs and can tackle any lawn from a quarter- to half-acre acre. Any lawn bigger than that would necessitate a riding mower.

But gas-powered mowers emit dangerous carbon monoxide and hydrocarbons, require yearly maintenance, and require the storage of gasoline and oil. This may not be suitable for some consumers.

Corded Electric

Corded electric mowers have been around for years and were historically the choice of consumers who had smaller lawns and didn’t need the more powerful gasoline mower. While powerful enough to get most cutting or trimming jobs done, the one obvious drawback to a corded mower is the electrical cord.

For any yard worthy of mowing, a long electrical extension cord is required to power the mower. This can be a minor annoyance, such as having to keep the cord free from getting tangled in trees and bushes, to a major annoyance when you drive over it and cut it into small pieces.

However, corded electric mowers require no gas, oil, or maintenance and, other than a blade sharpening from time to time, can perform reliably for years.

Battery

Battery-powered cars, power equipment, and tools have been around for a long time. The electric motors were strong and reliable enough, but the battery was not. Just a few years ago, an electric car could expect to go only 100 miles on a charge, and power tools and equipment didn’t last long either. In the past few years, battery technology has improved by leaps and bounds.

Electric cars can expect hundreds of miles on a charge and power tools and equipment can last a full day. This lithium battery technology found its way to lawnmowers and it has created a viable option for those consumers who don’t want gas and don’t want a cord. These battery-powered mowers are powerful, efficient, lightweight, and green. Many now use brushless electric motors, which are more efficient, produce more torque, and are longer lasting than the older electric motors with brushes.

How often should I mow my lawn?

Cutting the lawn too often and only cutting it when it gets overgrown are both unhealthy for a lush, beautiful lawn. The rule of thumb in the lawn-care industry is to keep the grass between 3 inches and 3.5 inches in length. This allows the grass to be long enough to thrive in hot, summer weather.

When cutting grass, never take more than a third of the blade at once. In other words, never cut more than an inch or so. Not only does this cause clumping of grass on the lawn or in the mower bag, but it takes too many nutrients and moisture from the grass itself.

After the late winter fertilizer treatments and the often heavy rains, lawns start to come to life. You’ll find that the grass will need cutting every 4 to 5 days in order to remove just enough length. As the summer wanes on and the temperature rises, the grass will grow a bit slower and a once week cutting is adequate.

It is also important to keep the blades of your lawnmower good and sharp. Since the lawnmower blades are often made of steel, they will develop a dull edge after a season of cutting. A dull edge on a blade will tear the grass and not cut it. This may result in browning of the tips of the grass and put more stress on the mower as well.

While you are under the deck checking those blades—and always disconnect the spark plug wire before going under the mower—be sure there is no old clumped up grass clinging to the mower deck.

Meet the testers

Director, Content Development

TJ is the Director of Content Development at Reviewed. He is a Massachusetts native and has covered electronics, cameras, TVs, smartphones, parenting, and more for Reviewed. He is from the self-styled Cranberry Capitol of the World, which is, in fact, a real thing.

Kevin Kavanaugh is a retired public school teacher and a product tester for Reviewed. Kevin has been cutting lawns for just about 50 years. He has always been intrigued by all things mechanical, be it watches, power equipment, vintage bicycles, or classic cars.

Checking our work.

Our team is here for one purpose: to help you buy the best stuff and love what you own. Our writers, editors, and lab technicians obsess over the products we cover to make sure you’re confident and satisfied. Have a different opinion about something we recommend? Email us and we’ll compare notes.