I mower t 2000. 7 Reasons Why Craftsman Riding Mower Turns Over But Won’t Start (Fixed)

The History of John Deere Riding Mowers: 1960s to 2000s

With a long line of history in producing riding mowers. John Deere has introduced hundreds of models that have played a significant role in the evolution of our lawn and garden equipment today. When looking at a John Deere riding mower, many questions arise like – What year was it produced? How did the technology evolve? Is there a larger model available? Which one is right for me?

It would certainly be difficult to address all of these questions for every riding mower model that has ever existed. However, we wanted to put together this series to help you get a better understanding of the history behind John Deere riding mowers.

In this post, we’ll look at the evolution of the John Deere riding mower from the 1960’s to present time. Enjoy!

History of John Deere Riding Mowers: The 1960s

The 1960s was an exciting decade for John Deere as it laid the groundwork for years of success to come. From the creation of the original model 110 to the introduction of the model 140, there is no denying that the foundation for the history of John Deere riding mowers was a strong one.

Where It All Began

In 1963, John Deere first broke into the lawn tractor market by introducing the model 110. The John Deere 110 had a 4-stroke petrol-fueled engine with 7 horsepower.

At the time, lawn mowing was becoming a much more popular leisure activity. This prompted John Deere to dive into the marketplace by offering many similar features and implements that the bigger farming tractors incorporated. The 110 was a big hit, likely because of the impressive design and futuristic features.

Urbanization

After proving success with the model 110 mower, John Deere introduced the model 60 shortly after. This was particularly designed with more urban customers in mind – those who had less land and didn’t necessarily need the larger model 110.

The John Deere 60 was useful for customers who needed to conquer their lawn work with a versatile machine, as this model offered a variety of attachments, including:

Taking Things a Step Further

Continuing on the success of the 110, Deere decided to launch a larger model that carried a similar style only with a bigger motor and wider deck. For customers who needed a machine for larger jobs than the 110 and 60 were capable of, the 112 was perfect.

Shortly after, Deere also introduced a small machine that offered a ton of power – the model 140. With 14 horsepower (compared to the 110, which offered 7 horsepower), the 140 was far ahead of its time.

For a complete list of riding mowers by model, year and serial number, check out the chart below.

History of John Deere Riding Mowers: The1970s

Despite having produced lawn tractors for nearly a decade by the time the 1970s rolled around, John Deere did not take this time to sit and rest. Instead, the 1970s were a time of advancement, resulting in 3 new series of mowers that were designed to go beyond expectations.

Improvements to Riding Mowers in the 1970s

Although a few existing models that were originally introduced in the 1960s were upgraded in the early 1970s, Deere took on some major advancements in 1975 when the 200, 300 and 400 Series riding mowers hit the market. These machines provided customers with new and exciting features, which we’ll dive into below.

200 Series

This series included some similar features to the John Deere 110 and 112, like the V-belt Variator Drive and mechanical clutch PTO. However, the new design gave customers engine options between 8-16 horsepower, a rubber Iso-mounted, a fully-shrouded engine with a low tone muffler system, and a new style hood and grill. The design of the 200 Series mowers took on the styling of full-sized Deere agriculture tractors with a back-sloped brow.

300 Series

The 300 Series was a hydrostatic model that was upgraded to a 16 horsepower Kohler K-Series engine. Most upgrades to this machine were made to the body, as it took on more of a square hood design with integral headlights, engine side panels, and a black instrument panel. One of the biggest changes included the engine being moved from under the hood to under the rear fender pan.

400 Series

Following the trend of design improvements, similar to the 300 Series, Deere continued making more visible advancements with the 400 Series. This included the wheelbase on the 400 becoming 6 inches longer than the 140, a track that was 7 inches wider, and the weight of the machine being 250 lbs more. Along with the size and style of this machine being updated, Deere also added power steering, which was a complete game changer at the time.

Check out the chart below for a complete list of riding mower by model, year and serial number.

History of John Deere Riding Mowers: The 1980s

At John Deere, the 1980s were a time for evolution and reaching milestones. In addition to introducing new designs, such as the R and S Series, John Deere also manufactured its millionth lawn and garden tractor during this decade!

Deere Goes Diesel

In 1984, Deere’s first tractor to combine a diesel engine with hydrostatic drive and power steering made quite the impression in the tractor industry. This impressive machine was the John Deere 430, which was very similar to the 420 model, but powered with a Yanmar 3-cylinder water-cooled diesel engine instead. The 430 weighed 1,170 lbs, making it the heaviest and strongest John Deere of its time.

Evolution of the 300 Series

The redesign of the 300 Series led to the introduction of the 318. What was great for customers was that many attachments of the 140 and 300 Series could still be used on the new model 318; however, many exciting features were added:

Rear-frame redesign from “closed” to “open” configuration
Annunciator lights implemented into the dash panel
Square-shaped fender deck
Reserve fuel tank for increased productivity

The best part? During this time, John Deere hit the big 1 million milestone – manufacturing its millionth lawn and garden tractor, with the 318 model outselling any other models.

The R and S Series

As we know, Deere always looked to accommodate customers managing both big and small operations, which is why the R Series and S Series were introduced.

The R Series (R70, R72, and R92) was a good fit for customers needing a solution for smaller pieces of land. Key features included 5-speed gear-drive transmission, in-line gearshift, full-length welded steel frame, and a tight turning radius of 27 inches. This provided operators with even more dependability, long equipment life, as well as on-the-go shifting.

MOWER WON’T START. QUICK TIPS

For those with a lawn slightly bigger than what was fit for the R Series to undertake, Deere produced the S Series riding mower (S80 and S82). These machines had a 30-inch cutting width, electric start and 8 horsepower engines.

For a complete list of riding mowers by model, year and serial number, check out the charts below.

John Deere Riding Mowers in the 1990s

Not to be undermined by the previous decade, the 1990s carried on the trend of growth for John Deere lawn and garden tractors. With the introduction of several new models, including the LT, LX, GT, and GX series, John Deere hit 2 more exciting milestones before the close of the millennium.

Exponential Growth

The 90s were known for many things but for Deere specifically, this was a time for exponential growth in both numbers and technology. In the 1990s John Deere hit both the 2 million and 3 million milestones, manufacturing its 2 millionth lawn tractor with the LX188 model and its 3 millionth tractor with the LT133 in 1998.

This is certainly a sentiment to how the company increased sales during this time; however, it’s not the only thing Deere was working on during this time. Let’s look through a few landmark models that were critical to the history of the John Deere riding mower.

LT Series

In the late 1990s, the LT Series (133, 155, and 166) became one of the most popular John Deere mowers ever. With this series, operators could experience high-quality wide cuts and a greater amount of fuel compared to competitive models in its class. An emphasis was put on comfort with the adjustable operator seat for those who spent long hours on their equipment The new Xenoy material instead of steel-hood also kept this machine in better condition.

LX Series

The LX Series was first introduced in the 90s and remained for 16 years to follow. Customers remember this series for its versatility, as each model was compatible with several sizes of mower decks to meet operators’ needs. The LX Series was also great for a variety of other projects around the yard. For example, owners could latch a snow blower attachment to the machine to help fight off winter storms.

GT and GX Series

The GT and GX Series were very similar to one another when it comes to style and uses. For customers with plots of land around 4 acres in size, both machines can hook up to other implements like snow blowers, baggers, carts, front blades and a variety of rear attachments like aerators, and utility carts. These machines were best fit for owners who needed a little more power and size for their weekend activities.

Check out the charts below for a complete list of riding mowers by model, year and serial number.

John Deere Riding Mowers in the 2000s

Last but certainly not least, Deere made a few noteworthy updates to existing models in the 2000s. The FOCUS here has largely been around offering more power to customers thanks to models in the LA and X Series.

LA Series

This model combines power and versatility to make a perfect fit for medium-large-sized lawn owners. Key features include the full-length steel welded frame, full pressed lubrication, cast iron front axles, headlights, translucent fuel tank including a sight gauge, comfortable operator station, Edge Cutting system, and option for Reverse Implement. Backed with plenty of power, this series also incorporates John Deere’s trademarked CargO Mount system, allowing for a large bagger or other heavy rear-mounted equipment to be easily attached. Other attachments like lawn sweepers, front blades, tractor shovels, mid-mount blades, carts, snow blowers, sprayers, and aerators can be easily added to the LA.

X Series

What’s unique about this series of John Deere riding mowers? The technology is what sets this machine apart, as it transfers power to the wheels through the use of the hydrostatic transmission to save time during operations and eliminate unnecessary gear-changing to speed up or slow down. The X Series also incorporates the Edge Cutting System and tight turning radius. This all helps improve convenience, performance, and reliability.

The charts below provide a full list of these riding mowers by model, year and serial number.

We hope this historical breakdown helped you get a better idea of how riding mowers got to where they are today. Still interested in learning more about the history of John Deere riding mowers? Be sure to check out some of the related articles listed below.

History of John Deere Riding Mowers FAQs

When did John Deere produce their first lawn tractor?

In 1963, John Deere entered into the lawn tractor market by introducing the model 110. The John Deere 110 had a 4-stroke petrol-fueled engine with 7 horsepower.

When was the first John Deere diesel lawn mower created?

In 1984, Deere created their first tractor to combine a diesel engine with hydrostatic drive and power steering.

What riding mower series were released in the 1970s?

3 new series of mowers that were designed in the 1970s including the 200 Series, 300 Series, and the 400 Series.

What decade did John Deere produce their millionth lawn and garden tractor?

John Deere manufactured its millionth lawn and garden tractor in the 1980’s.

What’s unique about the X series of John Deere riding mowers?

The technology of the X series is what sets this machine apart. It transfers power to the wheels through the use of the hydrostatic transmission to save time during operations and eliminate unnecessary gear-changing to speed up or slow down.

If you have any questions about John Deere lawn care equipment, you can contact your local John Deere dealer.

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Reasons Why Craftsman Riding Mower Turns Over But Won’t Start (Fixed)

A case where a Craftsman riding mower turns over but won’t start is fairly common. Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or a first-time lawn mower owner, encountering this problem can be frustrating. However, you don’t have to let it ruin your lawn-mowing experience.

This article will guide you through troubleshooting and repairing your Craftsman mower when it turns over (or cranks) but fails to start. We’ll cover the most common reasons, such as clogged air filters, dirty spark plugs, and low fuel levels, as well as more advanced problems, such as a malfunctioning carburetor or ignition system.

By the end of this article, you’ll have the knowledge and tools to get your Craftsman lawnmower running smoothly again, saving you time and money on costly repairs.

Why’s My Craftsman Riding Mower Turning Over But Not Starting?

There are several reasons a Craftsman lawnmower may turn over but not start, with the most common ones including the following:

Lack of fuel.
Dirty air filters.
Electrical issues in the ignition system or the starter motor.
Dirty spark plug.
Low oil.
Faulty carburetor.
Flooded engine.

It’s important to troubleshoot and identify the specific issue to properly repair your riding lawn mower. Regular maintenance of the Craftsman mower can also prevent these common issues from happening.

How to Troubleshoot and Fix a Riding Lawn Mower That Turns Over But Doesn’t Start

You may troubleshoot and fix a Craftsman riding lawn mower that cranks but doesn’t start by following these simple steps:

Check the spark plug.

Suppose you’re wondering what a spark plug is. In that case, it’s a small device that delivers an electrical spark to the engine’s combustion chamber to ignite the fuel and air mixture which powers the Craftsman lawn mower.

The location of a Craftsman riding mower’s spark plug can vary depending on the make and model. However, it’s usually located in the following areas:

near the engine’s top,
near the cylinder head,
on the side of the engine, or
under the flywheel.

However, it’s best to refer to the owner’s manual, which should have a diagram showing the spark plug’s location and instructions on accessing it. You can also check the manufacturer’s website or contact them directly if the manual is unavailable.

Caution: Before locating the spark plug, make sure that the engine is turned off, and the spark plug wire is disconnected to avoid any accidental starting of the engine.

Once you’ve located the spark plug, disconnect the spark plug wire and remove any covers or shields, if present. Using a screwdriver, carefully remove it from the spark plug hole by turning it counterclockwise. Inspect the spark plug for any signs of dirt, wear, or faults.

A dirty or worn spark plug can prevent the engine from starting or cause it to run poorly. This underscores the need for periodic checking and replacing of the spark plug. The general guideline is to replace with a new spark plug every 100 hours of usage or after a year, whichever comes first.

Clean the carburetor.

The carburetor is responsible for mixing fuel and air in proportions to allow the engine to run efficiently. It’s connected to the air filter, fuel tank, and engine and is typically located on the side of the engine. A malfunctioning or dirty carburetor can prevent the engine from starting or cause it to run poorly.

Here are the general steps for removing, disassembling, cleaning, and reassembling a lawn mower’s carburetor :

Locate the carburetor: Refer to the owner’s manual or the manufacturer’s website to find the location of the carburetor on your lawn mower.
Drain the fuel : Before removing the carburetor, take out any fuel content from the fuel tank and the fuel line to avoid fire hazards.
Disconnect the carburetor from the engine: Use a socket wrench to remove the carburetor from the engine, disconnecting the fuel line, air filter, and any other connections.
Disassemble the carburetor: Carefully take the carburetor apart, removing the float, needle valve, main jet, and idle jet. Be sure to note the position and orientation of each part before removing it.
Clean the carburetor: Use a carburetor cleaner and a small brush to clean each part of the carburetor, paying particular attention to the jet passages and the needle valve.
Reassemble the carburetor: Carefully put the carburetor back together, ensuring all the parts are in the correct position and orientation.
Reconnect the carburetor to the engine: Reinstall the carburetor back on the engine, reconnecting the fuel line, air filter, and any other connections.

It’s essential to ensure that the carburetor is cleaned correctly and reassembled to avoid leaks or damage. Also, it’s highly recommended to consult the manufacturer’s manual for specific instructions for your lawn mower.

Check the air filter.

The air filter helps eliminate dust, dirt, and other debris from the air entering the engine. It’s typically located near the carburetor and made of foam or paper material. It keeps the engine running smoothly and efficiently by ensuring the air that enters the engine is clean.

To check your Craftsman riding lawn mower’s air filter for dirt or damage, locate the air filter, typically positioned near the carburetor, remove the cover, and inspect the air filter for any signs of dirt, debris, or damage. A dirty air filter will be clogged with dirt and debris, and a damaged air filter will have tears or holes.

If the air filter appears dirty or damaged, it should be cleaned or replaced ( here’s how to change a lawnmower’s air filter ).

Note that you can’t clean all types of air filters. If it’s made of foam, you can clean it with soap and water and let it air dry completely until it’s free from moisture before reinstalling it. In the case of a paper air filter, you would need to replace it entirely.

We recommend you follow the manufacturer’s recommended maintenance schedule for checking and cleaning the air filter and consult the manufacturer’s manual for specific instructions.

Check the fuel system.

The fuel system delivers fuel from the gas tank to the carburetor and the engine. The fuel system isn’t a specific device but a group of components, including the fuel tank, fuel filter, fuel line, carburetor, fuel pump. and shut-off gas valve.

If your lawn mower turns over (or cranks) but won’t start, it could result from an issue with one of the components of the fuel system or bad gas. You should inspect the fuel filter for clogs or damage and check the fuel line for kinks, cracks, or leaks. Also, you’ll want to inspect the fuel tank for leaks or cracks and check the fuel tank filter if it has one.

If any of the components are dirty or damaged, you should clean or replace them.

Other Troubleshooting Tips for Craftsman Riding Mower Turns Over but Won’t Start

If you’ve tried all the above tips and your lawn mower still won’t start, here are some additional repairs you can try:

Check the battery and starter.

Here are the general steps for checking the battery and starter of your Craftsman riding mower:

Locate the battery: Refer to the owner’s manual or the manufacturer’s website to find the location of the battery on your lawn mower.
Check the battery’s charge: Use a voltmeter to check the battery’s charge; it should be at or above 12.5 volts. If the battery is low or dead, charge or replace it.
Check the battery terminals: Inspect the battery terminals for any signs of corrosion or damage. Clean or replace the terminals if necessary.
Locate the starter: The starter is typically located near the engine; sometimes, it’s built into the flywheel.
Check the starter connections: Inspect the starter connections for any signs of corrosion or damage. Clean or replace the connections if necessary.
Test the starter: Turn the key or press the starter button to see if it’s working correctly; if not, it may need replacement.

Check the ignition switch.

Here are the general steps for checking the ignition switch on a lawn mower :

Locate the ignition switch: Refer to the owner’s manual or the manufacturer’s website to find the location of the ignition switch on your lawn mower. It’s typically located on the handlebars or near the battery.
Check the connections: Inspect the connections for the ignition switch for any signs of corrosion or damage. Clean or replace the connections if necessary.
Test the switch: Turn the key or press the power button to see if the switch is working correctly. The switch may be faulty if the engine doesn’t crank or start.
Check the switch wiring: Inspect the wiring for any signs of damage or loose connections.

Check the safety switches.

Here are the general steps for checking and testing the safety switches on a Craftsman riding lawn mower :

Locate the safety switches: They’re typically on the handlebars, near the cutting deck, or the clutch.
Check the connections: Inspect the connections for the safety sensors for any signs of corrosion or damage. Clean or replace the connections if necessary.
Test the switches: Check each switch by activating it (e.g., engaging the brake pedal, lowering the cutting deck, etc.) and ensure that the engine stops or doesn’t start accordingly. If the engine doesn’t respond appropriately, the switch may be faulty.
Check the switch wiring: Inspect the wiring for any signs of damage or loose connections.

Conclusion

We know how frustrating a Craftsman riding mower that turns over but won’t start can be, but with the proper knowledge and tools, you can quickly repair it. By following the steps outlined in this article, you can troubleshoot and identify common issues such as clogged air filters, dirty spark plugs, and low fuel levels.

However, we’ll like to stress that regular maintenance of your Craftsman riding mower, including checking and replacing the spark plug and cleaning the carburetor, can prevent these issues from happening in the first place.

The Best Reel Mower for Your (Small) Lawn

We’ve reviewed this guide, added competitors, eliminated older models, and reconfirmed our decisions on our picks.

Reel mowers aren’t for everyone. They’re designed for small, flat lawns, and they take some effort to push around. But they provide exceptional cut quality and a completely unplugged mowing experience, so they offer things no other mower can. We think the best one is the Scotts 2000-20 20-Inch Classic Push Reel Lawn Mower.

For the healthiest grass

The Scotts makes the cleanest cut, has the widest cutting path, and jams the least of any reel mower, and its unusually tall 3-inch max cutting height makes it more versatile for different grass types.

Buying Options

At the time of publishing, the price was 145.

During initial tests with a golf course grounds crew and in years of follow up use, the Scotts-branded mower has the best cut quality of any of the mowers we’ve tested, and its unusually tall maximum cutting height of 3 inches makes it a versatile choice for different types of lawns and grasses. It has a 20-inch cutting swath—the widest available—and at 34 pounds, it’s light and easy to maneuver. It was also the only mower in the group that didn’t jam during testing.

Good cut, less elegant

This mower cuts almost as well as our main pick and has a taller cutting height, but it’s bulkier (making it harder to turn around) and more expensive.

Buying Options

At the time of publishing, the price was 250.

If our main pick is sold out or otherwise unavailable, we also really like the Fiskars 18-Inch StaySharp Max Reel Mower. Its a solid mower with a 4-inch cutting height is higher than any other reel mower’s. In testing the Fiskars cut well, but it wasn’t on par with the Scotts and didn’t handle tall grass quite as well. It’s also heavier and bulkier, making it more of a chore to turn around, it also costs more than the Scotts.

For the healthiest grass

The Scotts makes the cleanest cut, has the widest cutting path, and jams the least of any reel mower, and its unusually tall 3-inch max cutting height makes it more versatile for different grass types.

Buying Options

At the time of publishing, the price was 145.

Good cut, less elegant

This mower cuts almost as well as our main pick and has a taller cutting height, but it’s bulkier (making it harder to turn around) and more expensive.

Buying Options

At the time of publishing, the price was 250.

Why you should trust us

We spoke with Jason Kruse, assistant professor of environmental horticulture and turfgrass specialist at the University of Florida. As his bio states, Kruse’s responsibilities include “managing the University of Florida turfgrass Envirotron teaching and research facility, planning and implementing turfgrass educational field days and leading the statewide turfgrass teaching design team.” The guy knows a lot about grass.

For testing, we enlisted the aid of the grounds crew of the Diamond Hawk Golf Course in Cheektowaga, New York, a bunch of people who are serious about mowing. While using the mowers, they picked up cut blades to carefully examine how cleanly the mowers cut; they also bent down to compare the color of the turf after each one made a pass, and pushed all the mowers around on various lengths of grass.

Here at Wirecutter, we’ve been covering lawn equipment since 2014. As for the specific topic of grass-cutting implements, we’ve written extensive guides to both lawn mowers and string trimmers in addition to reel mowers.

Since the first version of this guide, we’ve recommended the Scotts as well as the runner-up Fiskars, and we’ve continued to use both models in assorted locations, paying attention to their long-term performance and any ongoing maintenance needed.

Who should get a reel mower

Before getting a reel mower, you should be aware of their pros and cons. Simply put, a reel mower is not a direct replacement for a regular mower.

As one of our long-term testers said, “I love [my reel mower]. It makes mowing feel more like a pleasant way to spend time outside and less like something I need to grit my teeth and power through.” On the other hand, a second long-term tester stated that he regrets purchasing a reel mower and has “frequently considered selling it to get a cheap electric mower.”

Reel mowers are better for the lawn’s health. They snip the grass blades like scissors, while rotary mowers tend to shred grass blades. According to University of Florida assistant professor of environmental horticulture Jason Kruse, “The scissor-cutting action of the reel mowers results in less damage to the leaf tissue, which in turn puts the plants under less stress.” He continued, “They lose less water, are less susceptible to disease, and generally look better when cut with a reel mower.”

Reel mowers are also good for the operator’s health. Because you hand-push the mower and it isn’t motorized, it takes effort to use, especially if you have a large lawn. Keep in mind that the turning wheels are what rotate the blades, which adds to the resistance. So the task is not as simple as, say, pushing an empty furniture dolly, where you’re pushing the wheels and nothing else. According to a Livestrong.com article, (which in turn credits Harvard Medical School, among others) a person weighing 175 pounds would burn approximately 251 calories by pushing a reel mower—which the article refers to as a hand mower—for 30 minutes. This is 51 calories more than someone weighing 185 pounds pushing a mower with a powered blade for the same amount of time.

Reel mowers also require minimal maintenance and are much, much quieter than regular mowers. Aside from lubricating and sharpening the blades every few years, you don’t have a lot of upkeep to do on a reel mower. As for the noise, many users of reel mowers cite the gentle snipping sound the tool makes as a key benefit. Gas mowers, on the other hand, require gas, regular tune-ups, oil changes, and winterizing. They’re also noisy and smelly. As one of our long-term testers said, “I love [my reel mower]. It makes mowing feel more like a pleasant way to spend time outside and less like something I need to grit my teeth and power through.”

But for a reel mower to be practical, you need a fairly small lawn. Anyone with more than a quarter acre (roughly 10,000 square feet) will find weekly mowing with a reel mower exhausting. One long-term tester stated that he regrets purchasing a reel mower for the size of his lawn and has “frequently considered selling it to get a cheap electric mower.”. In contrast, another of our long-term testers has approximately 1,000 square feet of lawn, and mowing takes her about 20 minutes.

A reel mower works best with a strict adherence to a regular cutting schedule. If grass gets overgrown, a reel mower will merely push it down and roll right over it, so if you tend to go a while between mowings, you should stick with a regular push mower. One long term tester had to wait so long for the reel mower to arrive that once it got there, the grass had grown so high they needed to hire someone to cut their grass. And the necessary diligence goes beyond the schedule: Reel mowers can’t mow over twigs and leaves as gas mowers can, so additional attentiveness to pre-mow lawn cleanup is required, as well.

Reel mowers are troublesome on sloped or bumpy lawns. The torque that turns the blades comes from the wheels as you roll them along the ground. On an uneven surface, the wheels lose contact with the ground as they bounce or as the weight shifts on a slope. As one of our long-term testers put it, “Small dips can lead to grass getting missed, so I often end up mowing from two or three different angles to try and get it all.”

In fact, the results in general may not be what you expect. One of our long-term testers said that their mower “often totally misses taller strands of grass” and that they “have to go back and snip those with a pair of shears.” Also, on most reel mowers, the blades are inboard of the wheels, so you’ll have a wider gap of unmowed grass against a fence or a stone wall.

How we picked and tested

To figure out how to pick the best reel mower, we spoke to Scott Dunbar, superintendent of Diamond Hawk Golf Course in Cheektowaga, New York. He explained that reel mowers can cut much closer to the ground than rotary mowers. At the golf course, the crew uses reel mowers to cut greens and approaches but uses gas-powered rotary mowers for the rough. But the average homeowner isn’t cutting the lawn for use as a putting green—in fact, cutting your lawn too low is terrible for its health. Turf experts suggest never cutting off more than a third of your grass’s length; cutting too close to the ground can cause the grass to dry out and get scorched in the summer. This means that a mower’s minimum cutting height isn’t a useful measurement, since you’re unlikely to use that setting.

The maximum cutting height was a crucial detail. We used this spec as our primary factor in eliminating mowers from contention. Few reel mowers are able to get above 2½ inches, which may not be good for your lawn. “[Cutting height] is one of the primary complaints I have against the majority of reel mowers that are marketed for home use. Most residential grasses (both cool- and warm-season) have recommended heights of cut that are at the upper limit or even exceed the height of cut that is possible with some of the mowers,” said University of Florida turfgrass specialist Kruse. “While it would be possible to use the mower, the long-term health of the turf could suffer significantly,” he continued.

Other factors were also important:

How easy is the mower to adjust?
How hard is it to push?
How wide is it?
How much does it weigh?
What have other reviewers said about it?

We took our final four mowers to a golf course. There the grounds crew helped us adjust the blades to the exact same standard they used on their mowers so that the blades could cleanly slice a piece of paper. Over the next three hours, we pushed all four mowers back and forth on different-height grasses. On hand were course superintendent Scott Dunbar, a member of the grounds crew, a mechanic who maintains the course equipment, and an equipment salesman who happened to be at the course that day. These guys are all turfgrass experts who deal with grass and mowing equipment every day. They really took to the task of comparing these mowers, examining every aspect closely and answering all our questions about turf and cut quality.

Our pick: Scotts 2000-20 20-Inch Classic Push Reel Lawn Mower

For the healthiest grass

Buying Options

At the time of publishing, the price was 145.

The Scotts 2000-20 20-Inch Classic Push Reel Lawn Mower is the reel mower to get. Of the tested mowers, it offered the cleanest cut and the easiest adjustments, and it was the only one that didn’t jam. It also has a wide, 20-inch cutting swath—the widest we found—as well as height adjustments between 1 and 3 inches, which is a more versatile range than we saw on almost all of the other available reel mowers. At 34 pounds, it’s light and easy to turn around at the end of each mowing row, but it’s heavy enough that it doesn’t bounce around on slightly uneven turf.

The quality of the cut excelled against the competition. When our lawn experts were going back and forth with the mowers on a variety of grasses and lengths, they noticed that the Scotts model would leave a swath of totally trimmed grass with each blade snipped evenly across, no ragged edges to be seen. In contrast, the other mowers would leave a bunch of blades sticking up like chimneys after a house fire, requiring the testers to back up and go over the area again. The Scotts mower also never jammed up during testing, whereas all of the other mowers did.

The Scotts 2000-20 also snipped a wider path than most of the others. The Scotts is a 20-inch-wide mower, the widest size available (the measurement refers to the blade width, not the overall width). We tested another 20-inch model, the Lee Valley 20″ Mower, but that one was harder to push, and its cut quality was worse.

Our testers also gave the Scotts 2000-20 high marks for overall usability. At 34 pounds, it lands in the middle of our test group in weight but manages to hit the sweet spot between maneuverability and stability. The Fiskars StaySharp Max is heavier and harder to turn around at the end of a mowing row; by contrast, the lighter Lee Valley model bounced around on uneven ground and left a ragged cut as a result.

All of the adjustments on the Scotts mower are easy to make. For cutting height, it has two levers, one for each wheel. One other model we tested, the 16-inch Great States 415-16, required us to unbolt it each time we wanted to change the cutting height. Also, the height settings on the Scotts model are accurate; the 1-inch setting on the Fiskars, in contrast, actually cut much lower, practically scalping the lawn, before we readjusted it to a higher setting.

The Scotts 2000-20 has a cutting range of 1 to 3 inches. The vast majority of reel mowers top out around 2 inches, so we appreciated the ability to go taller, either for the health of the grass or for a less manicured look. A DIY Network article lists the ideal cutting heights for a variety of warm- and cool-weather grasses, and the capabilities of the Scotts land nicely in the strike zone for every grass mentioned. Our runner-up, the Fiskars StaySharp Max, has an even higher maximum cutting height at 4 inches, but it’s a much heavier mower with more difficult maneuvering, and it doesn’t cut as nicely.

The Scotts is easy to assemble, and doesn’t require any tools. The bolts that attach the handle have large plastic wing nuts, so tightening by hand is simple. If you ever need to take your mower apart—to fit it into a compact space like a car trunk or a small storage area—we found that the Scotts was easy enough to disassemble, too. You might need pliers to remove the small C-clips that attach the handle to the body of the mower, but otherwise it shouldn’t be a hassle.

Scotts stands behind their products. Erin Price, then Wirecutter’s Audience Development Manager, had a wheel fall off her Scotts push mower and the company replaced the entire mower for her. She told us, “I love my reel mower and perhaps love it even more now that the company was so helpful.”

It has performed well in long term testing. Two other Wirecutter staff members, who both happen to be women, also have Scotts Classics in their personal tool sheds, and they appreciate the mower’s simplicity and ease of use. Senior Photo Editor Rozette Rago had never used a reel mower before picking up the Scotts for her small, flat yard in LA, and found it quick to get used to. It was easy to figure out for two people who have never used it before. Wirecutter Producer Beth Niegelsky, who has used both the Fiskars and the Scotts, prefers the latter, “ I actually like the Scotts significantly more because it is SO much lighter.” She explained, “With the Fiskars, I basically couldn’t mow the hill of my front yard without feeling like I was doing something dangerous. It’s basically no problem with the Scotts.”

Senior Software Development Engineer Joshua Brewer had the Scotts for three years and recently replaced it for our lawn mower pick. Throughout his three years of usage, he highlighted that the Scott was “kinda fun to use.” He appreciated that it was easy to storetash, didn’t require fuel, and was quieter than a traditional lawn mower. However, the Scotts did squeak despite thorough maintenance, required multiple passes on his lawn, and his foam handle disintegrated after the first year. Overall, Brewer says The Scotts 2000-20 worked, but was much more laborious to use with a lush and dense lawn and worked a lot better when the lawn was more sparse. He’s much happier with the Ego LM2135SP now.

Supervising Editor Josh Lyon also has a Scotts and said there are bumpy parts of his lawn that he needs to go over one or two additional times, but that “the mower is so light and has such a smooth roll that even with the extra passes it takes half the time to do our entire lawn than with the gas-powered mower we used to have.” Overall, Lyon is very happy with the Scotts and says he’ll never go back to a gas mower.

Finally, even though it wasn’t a major factor in our decision, testers liked how the Scotts looked better than the other mowers (some found the Fiskars model’s oddball form to be off-putting). The Scotts 2000-20 is covered by a two-year warranty, and user reviews suggest that the manufacturer, American Lawn Mower, issues free replacement parts whenever a problem crops up.

Flaws but not dealbreakers

We analyzed the negative Комментарии и мнения владельцев at Amazon and found that most of the complaints center on the aluminum handle breaking, a plastic gear in the mechanism stripping out, or simply the realization that a reel mower is not the right choice for the owner’s particular lawn.

We investigated the plastic-gear complaint by removing the wheel of the Scotts mower and taking a look at the gear. As you can see in the photo above, it’s a pretty robust gear with deep teeth, and it interfaces with the teeth on the inside of the plastic wheel. The wheels turn as you push, and those teeth turn the plastic gear, which rotates the blades. Stripping it out is an issue to be aware of, but under proper use, the gear shouldn’t be a problem. And if it becomes one, replacing the gear is a 10-minute repair job. While it would be nice if both the wheel and the gear were made of metal, such a design would likely add money to the price tag and a significant amount of weight to the mower.

One of our long-term testers also noted that when the Scotts arrived, many of the screws holding the handle together were loose and fell out within a month. Once they were replaced, no further problems surfaced.

A close reading of the user complaints suggests that owners who were using the Scotts mower on tall or tough Southern grass had the most problems, but such difficulties are likely to be common among all push mowers and not just the Scotts.

The History of John Deere Riding Mowers: 1960s to 2000s

Lawn Tractor Won’t Start? Try This Easy Free Fix!

In this post, we’ll look at the evolution of the John Deere riding mower from the 1960’s to present time. Enjoy!

History of John Deere Riding Mowers: The 1960s

Where It All Began

In 1963, John Deere first broke into the lawn tractor market by introducing the model 110. The John Deere 110 had a 4-stroke petrol-fueled engine with 7 horsepower.

At the time, lawn mowing was becoming a much more popular leisure activity. This prompted John Deere to dive into the marketplace by offering many similar features and implements that the bigger farming tractors incorporated. The 110 was a big hit, likely because of the impressive design and futuristic features.

Urbanization

After proving success with the model 110 mower, John Deere introduced the model 60 shortly after. This was particularly designed with more urban customers in mind – those who had less land and didn’t necessarily need the larger model 110.

The John Deere 60 was useful for customers who needed to conquer their lawn work with a versatile machine, as this model offered a variety of attachments, including:

Taking Things a Step Further

For a complete list of riding mowers by model, year and serial number, check out the chart below.

History of John Deere Riding Mowers: The1970s

Improvements to Riding Mowers in the 1970s

200 Series

300 Series

400 Series

Check out the chart below for a complete list of riding mower by model, year and serial number.

History of John Deere Riding Mowers: The 1980s

Deere Goes Diesel

Evolution of the 300 Series

Rear-frame redesign from “closed” to “open” configuration
Annunciator lights implemented into the dash panel
Square-shaped fender deck
Reserve fuel tank for increased productivity

The best part? During this time, John Deere hit the big 1 million milestone – manufacturing its millionth lawn and garden tractor, with the 318 model outselling any other models.

The R and S Series

As we know, Deere always looked to accommodate customers managing both big and small operations, which is why the R Series and S Series were introduced.

For a complete list of riding mowers by model, year and serial number, check out the charts below.

John Deere Riding Mowers in the 1990s

Exponential Growth

LT Series

LX Series

GT and GX Series

Check out the charts below for a complete list of riding mowers by model, year and serial number.

John Deere Riding Mowers in the 2000s

LA Series

X Series

The charts below provide a full list of these riding mowers by model, year and serial number.

History of John Deere Riding Mowers FAQs

When did John Deere produce their first lawn tractor?

In 1963, John Deere entered into the lawn tractor market by introducing the model 110. The John Deere 110 had a 4-stroke petrol-fueled engine with 7 horsepower.

When was the first John Deere diesel lawn mower created?

In 1984, Deere created their first tractor to combine a diesel engine with hydrostatic drive and power steering.

What riding mower series were released in the 1970s?

3 new series of mowers that were designed in the 1970s including the 200 Series, 300 Series, and the 400 Series.

What decade did John Deere produce their millionth lawn and garden tractor?

John Deere manufactured its millionth lawn and garden tractor in the 1980’s.

What’s unique about the X series of John Deere riding mowers?

If you have any questions about John Deere lawn care equipment, you can contact your local John Deere dealer.

If you enjoyed this post or want to read others, feel free to connect with us on , , or !

Toro 74143 Z Master 2000 Zero Turn Mower 52. 22 HP Kawasaki Turbo Force

Toro 52 inch Z Master 2000 Series Zero Turn Lawn Mower with 52 in. turbo force deck and a 22 HP Kawasaki FX engine. Great for part time contractors and acreage owners.

Kawasaki FX Engine

The engine has 22 gross HP 2 cylinder with electric start Fuel tank has a 8 gallon capacity

74143 with 52 Fabricated cutting deck

1.5 to 5.5 cutting height Easy to use electric blade engagement 8 spindles made of aluminum 7/10 gauge steel Turbo Force with bull nose front bumper

Drive train and dimensions of lawn mower

Back tires are 23 x 9.5-12 in size Front caster tires are 13 x 6.5-6 flat free Unit comes with custom two-toned seat ZT-3400 hydro pumps

Information

MPN

Shipping Options

Manufacturer

Grade

Engine Manufacturer

Engine Size

Oil Filter

Engine Cooling

Drive System

Transmission Model

Pump Displacement

Speed Forward (mph)

Productivity

Tire Size Front

Tire Size Rear

Deck Size

Deck Thickness

Cutting Deck Type

Spindle Material

Greaseable Spindle

Cutting Height

Blade Engagement

Arm Rest

Warranty

74143

Store Pickup / Delivery Only Call For Price

Toro

Commercial

Kawasaki

22hp

Yes

Air

ZT-3400

Electric Start Standard

12cc

8.5 mph

7/10-guage, high-strength steel, 52 in (132 cm) TURBO FORCE® w/bull-nose bumper

13×6.5×6

23×9.5×12

52 in

7 gauge

Fabricated

Aluminum

Yes

1.5-5.5

Electric

Yes

CARB Warranty

Sources:

https://blog.machinefinder.com/26612/history-john-deere-riding-mower-1960s-to-present/amp
https://www.pipsisland.com/craftsman-riding-mower-turns-over-but-wont-start/
https://www.nytimes.com/wirecutter/reviews/best-reel-mower/
https://blog.machinefinder.com/26612/history-john-deere-riding-mower-1960s-to-present/amp
https://sleequipment.com/toro-74143-z-master-2000-zero-turn-mower.html

Lawn Mowers 2000, craftsman, mower, reasons

I mower t 2000. 7 Reasons Why Craftsman Riding Mower Turns Over But Won’t Start (Fixed)

The History of John Deere Riding Mowers: 1960s to 2000s

History of John Deere Riding Mowers: The 1960s

Where It All Began

Urbanization

Taking Things a Step Further

History of John Deere Riding Mowers: The1970s

Improvements to Riding Mowers in the 1970s

200 Series

300 Series

400 Series

History of John Deere Riding Mowers: The 1980s

Deere Goes Diesel

Evolution of the 300 Series

The R and S Series

MOWER WON’T START. QUICK TIPS

John Deere Riding Mowers in the 1990s

Exponential Growth

LT Series

LX Series

GT and GX Series

John Deere Riding Mowers in the 2000s

LA Series

X Series

History of John Deere Riding Mowers FAQs

When did John Deere produce their first lawn tractor?

When was the first John Deere diesel lawn mower created?

What riding mower series were released in the 1970s?

What decade did John Deere produce their millionth lawn and garden tractor?

What’s unique about the X series of John Deere riding mowers?

Related Articles:

Reasons Why Craftsman Riding Mower Turns Over But Won’t Start (Fixed)

Why’s My Craftsman Riding Mower Turning Over But Not Starting?

How to Troubleshoot and Fix a Riding Lawn Mower That Turns Over But Doesn’t Start

Check the spark plug.

Clean the carburetor.

Check the air filter.

Check the fuel system.

Other Troubleshooting Tips for Craftsman Riding Mower Turns Over but Won’t Start

Check the battery and starter.

Check the ignition switch.

Check the safety switches.

Conclusion

The Best Reel Mower for Your (Small) Lawn

For the healthiest grass

Buying Options

Good cut, less elegant

Buying Options

For the healthiest grass

Buying Options

Good cut, less elegant

Buying Options

Why you should trust us

Who should get a reel mower

How we picked and tested

Our pick: Scotts 2000-20 20-Inch Classic Push Reel Lawn Mower

For the healthiest grass

Buying Options

Flaws but not dealbreakers

The History of John Deere Riding Mowers: 1960s to 2000s

Lawn Tractor Won’t Start? Try This Easy Free Fix!

History of John Deere Riding Mowers: The 1960s

Where It All Began

Urbanization

Taking Things a Step Further

History of John Deere Riding Mowers: The1970s

Improvements to Riding Mowers in the 1970s

200 Series

300 Series

400 Series

History of John Deere Riding Mowers: The 1980s

Deere Goes Diesel

Evolution of the 300 Series

The R and S Series

John Deere Riding Mowers in the 1990s

Exponential Growth

LT Series

LX Series

GT and GX Series

John Deere Riding Mowers in the 2000s