Mcculloch lawn mower troubleshooting. Lawn Mower Clutch Problems (How to Spot Fixes)
Lawn Mower Clutch Problems (How to Spot Fixes)
The PTO clutch is an essential part for your lawn mower’s function. Without the clutch, or with a poorly functioning clutch, your riding mower will be nothing but a slow, one-seater vehicle. While this may be useful for teaching your teenage kid to drive, it will be useless for mowing the lawn. The clutch is needed to transfer power from the motor to the blades, so that you can cut grass! Luckily, it’s pretty easy to tell if you have a bad clutch. We will go over some ways to diagnose and fix lawn mower clutch problems here.
How to Spot Common Riding Lawn Mower Clutch Problems:
If you are activating your PTO switch on the mower, and you don’t hear it engage or hear the blades start turning, there is probably a problem with either the engagement mechanism or the clutch. The electric solenoid can go bad, the clutch can be worn out and slipping, or the clutch can be fused together by excessive heat. There may also be a safety system malfunction, which may not let the blades engage.
With the first problem, nothing will happen when you activate the switch. This is a telltale sign of an electrical problem. If the clutch is damaged, you may hear it slipping while it tries to engage, or you might hear your PTO engage and then stop right away, as it is designed for the fuse to fail first if it cannot turn the clutch.
Most Common Riding Lawn Mower Clutch Problems:
The Electric PTO is Not Getting the Voltage Needed, or the PTO Solenoid is Toast
If the solenoid switch that controls the electromagnetic clutch engagement is bad, you will not hear anything happen when you activate the switch. There are three common reasons for this: There could be a bad fuse, which is the easiest fix. The solenoid may not be getting enough voltage from the battery to engage, in which case you will want to test the voltage coming from the battery. The other possibility is that the solenoid is bad, and in this case, you will want to head down to your local small engine repair shop to obtain a new one.
The Clutch is Slipping, Damaged, or Fused Together
If you activate your PTO switch and you hear a squealing, screeching sound, disengage the PTO and turn off the mower. You may have something in the blades that is keeping them from turning, your PTO belt may be worn out, or worst-case scenario, you may have a lawn mower clutch problem. Whatever you do, NEVER GO NEAR THE BLADES WHILE THEY ARE SPINNING, OR THE PTO IS ENGAGED. It’s best to completely turn off the mower and remove the key before trying to service any part of the PTO system.
A Safety Switch Somewhere Else is Causing the Blades Not to Engage
There is the possibility that another safety mechanism or switch is keeping the PTO from engaging. There are multiple switches in most mowers to ensure that you are safely seated on the mower when the blades start spinning. This may be a safety switch in the seat, or possibly a switch in the emergency brake or transmission. Try shifting your mower into neutral, engaging and disengaging the emergency brake, and make sure your weight is centered on the seat while engaging the PTO switch. Sometimes the switch under the seat may go bad or get dirty, and it will not sense your weight on the seat. Your lawn mower blades won’t engage if this is the case.
Symptoms of a Bad PTO Clutch on Your Lawn Mower (Mechanical):
These symptoms may indicate a mechanical problem with the actual clutch of the mower.
The Clutch Makes Noise When Engaged
If this is happening, your clutch may have a bad bearing, the surface of the flywheel may not be in good condition, or your PTO belt or pulley may need replacement. The belt slipping may cause the noise, so the first thing to check would be that the belt is tight and not damaged.
The Clutch Causes the Engine to Rev Higher
If the engine is revving up higher when you engage the PTO, it becomes evident that the power transfer from the engine to the blades is not working as it should. This may indicate some of the same things mentioned above. Your actual clutch may have a bad bearing and not be spinning smoothly, causing the engine to use more power. The PTO pulley may also have a bad bearing which would cause the engine to supply more power to get it moving.
The PTO Clutch Starts, Then Immediately Stops, and Fuse is Blown
If the fuse to your PTO switch blows right away when you activate it, that could still indicate a mechanical problem. This could mean that the clutch was impossible for the motor to move, and the motor had to try and supply so much power that it blew the fuse. Your clutch may be seized up completely, there may be something stuck in the blades, or your PTO pulley may be seized up. Either way, you won’t be mowing until you figure out the problem.
Symptoms of a Bad PTO Clutch (Electrical):
The PTO Switch Makes No Sound When Activated
This can indicate that the actual switch is bad or is not receiving enough power from the battery. You will need to do some electric PTO clutch troubleshooting to fix this problem. Listed below are the possible problems to check for if you experience this. You will likely need a multimeter to check for these.
Check the Fuse – The fuse for the PTO System is the easiest part to check and change. It should not be burnt, and you should be able to see that there is still a solid connection.
Battery Voltage – The battery may not be supplying enough voltage to activate the solenoid. This is a common problem, as lawn mower batteries can lose charge while sitting.
PTO Solenoid – This is the actual electromagnetic switch that controls the clutch, and replacing this part is a little more in-depth. You can check for its function with a multimeter.
How to Test the PTO Clutch on Your Mower
For the purpose of testing the PTO clutch on your mower, you will need to use a multimeter. It doesn’t have to be anything fancy, it just needs the ability to check voltage, resistance, and amperage.
Testing the PTO Clutch (Mechanical)
First, perform a mechanical test on the clutch just to rule out any physical problems with the clutch. You will need to turn on your mower. Make sure the mower is in neutral or park, and that the emergency brake is engaged. Some mowers have differing safety features, and you may need to disengage the emergency brake to start the PTO.
With the mower running at full throttle, try engaging the PTO switch or lever. If you hear the blades try to start up, you can rule out the PTO solenoid. If the clutch is squealing or the mower engine starts revving higher, disengage the PTO and turn off the engine. You may have a bad bearing in the clutch, a bad contact surface on the flywheel, or a bad PTO pulley.
Also, check the belt for the PTO and make sure that it is not loose, frayed, cracked, or otherwise worn out. You can find replacement pulleys, belts, and clutch assembly parts at your local small engine repair shop. If you activate the PTO switch and your blades turn on without incident, Congratulations! You have a functional PTO clutch and you can mow away!
Testing the PTO Clutch (Electrical)
If you tried to activate the PTO in the last step and nothing happened, it’s time to check some electrical connections.
1) Fuse – First, look for the wire that goes to the PTO mechanism. There should be a small fuse box containing the fuse for the switch. If the fuse is blown, you will be able to see it. The metal connection inside the fuse will be melted, broken, or burnt-looking. This means that the clutch was trying to draw too much amperage for some reason, and it usually points to some sort of mechanical problem (bad bearing, etc.). Replacement fuses are cheap, and you can replace it with the same amperage fuse that was in there. Usually, they are 10 or 15A.
2) Battery – If the fuse is good, the next thing to check would be the battery. You want to make sure the battery is supplying the correct voltage to the parts of the mower. Take your multimeter, switch it to Volts, and place the positive (red) probe on the positive terminal of the mower battery. Take the negative (black) probe and place it on a metal part of the engine. If your battery is putting out the correct voltage, the meter should read about 12.6 volts. Anything under that and your battery will need a charge. If this checks out, all that is left to check is the function of the solenoid.
3) Solenoid Function – You will want to find the clutch assembly under the mower, with the mower turned off, and unplug the wire that comes from the PTO switch. Put the key in the mower and turn it only to the first click. You don’t want to start the mower up, you just want the battery turned on. You will need to switch your multimeter to Amperage and connect the black probe to a grounded metal piece. Next, you will need to insert the red probe into the wiring harness coming from the switch. Activate the PTO switch and this should give you a reading of about 4 amps. If there is no reading, it is likely that the switch is bad. You may need to contact the manufacturer to get the part number for that PTO switch.
If you checked for these lawnmower PTO clutch problems and everything worked, your clutch is in working condition and you are ready to mow!
About Tom Greene
I’ve always had a keen interest in lawn care as long as I can remember. Friends used to call me the lawn mower guru (hence the site name), but I’m anything but. I just enjoy cutting my lawn and spending time outdoors. I also love the well-deserved doughnuts and coffee afterward!
How To Fix A Lawn Mower Cable Quick And Easy Low Cost
Комментарии и мнения владельцев
Hi mate, I’m Farud. I have a Mcculloch m175h38rb ride on mower. How can I tell if the clutch is bad and if it is, can I still mow?
Hi Farud, First, driving with a bad or “failed” clutch on a mower isn’t particularly dangerous or likely to damage more than the clutch itself, but it’s unlikely that you will be able to mow for very long. Any breaking mechanisms may also be worn down more while driving with a bad clutch than they would be otherwise. Further, if your clutch is failing, it may “stick” in the on position and make it difficult to disengage the blades. If this happens, turn off the mower and remove the key. The clutch will need to be repaired or replaced before using the mower again. To know if you have a failed clutch, look for the following signs: – Is your clutch hard to use? If the clutch fails to engage or disengage without more than a reasonable amount of effort, your clutch could be failing. – Does your engine rev every time you engage the clutch? If so, your clutch could be faulty. If either of these criteria is true, you likely have a clutch with a mechanical problem that needs to be repaired or replaced. If neither of these is true, there may be a problem elsewhere that is interfering with how the clutch operates. This usually means a problem with the wiring to the clutch, your mower’s battery, the solenoid related to your clutch if your mower has one, or a fuse attached to the clutch. I hope that helps
My husband purchased an old Craftsman DYT 4000 from a guy he works with last summer. We replaced the carb and it ran good and cut great last summer. We used it for the first time this spring last week. Now the blades are turning but not really fast like normal. It isn’t cutting the grass, just pushing it over. It doesn’t sound like the electric PTO is engaging correctly, but the blades are turning. Switch or electric clutch?
Hi Brenda It sounds to me like that would be an issue with your clutch. If the blades engage at all, the switch should be working fine. Since your blades aren’t spinning as fast as they should I would guess that the clutch isn’t functioning properly, or that the f belt is worn out. Aside from that, I would also recommend taking a look at the blade itself. Make sure that it is tightened securely, and that all grass and grime buildup has been cleaned from the blade and deck. The only other thing that would cause the blades not to spin properly would be lack of power from the engine. However, if you’ve got a suspicion that the clutch is faulty I would check that out first. Let me know how you get on!
Hi Ted, The process of belt replacement will vary depending on the type of mower you have, but generally speaking there are a few things you can expect to do. First, you will have to loosen or remove your variable speed pulley. In order to get some slack in the belt you can almost always expect to pull out a pulley or two. This is usually done by pulling out a handful of mounting screws around its edges, or by taking out its center bolt and fully disassembling it. Now, with tension released, you can remove the old belt and then thread the new one in. Just be sure to route it the same way it came out. There will be some other parts that you’ll likely need to remove when doing this to free up space, but it really depends on the type of riding mower you have. As long as you keep track of all the parts involved, you should be able to get your new belt on just by noticing how the old one is installed. Good luck! Tom.
I have a Cub Cadet 1515 which is having issues with the pto clutch. Last fall the blades quit spinning while cutting grass. I pulled the pto switch out and pushed in several times and the clutch would still not engage. So today I found the air gap on the clutch to be.035 inches which I thought might be the problem (too large). I removed the deck and started the engine and pulled out pto switch and clutch did not engage (pulley was not spinning). A few hours later I started the engine again and the pulley started spinning immediately without pulling out the PTO knob. So, I pulled out and pushed in the PTO switch several times and the pulley kept spinning. I checked the continuity on the PTO switch pushed in: Com a=.89, com b=1, com c=1 and pto switch pulled out: Com a=1, com b=0, com c=0. I think the PTO switch is OK. With the engine running the battery was putting out 13.40 volts and the voltage to the clutch was 14.05 volts. The resistance to the clutch was 5.9 ohms and the continuity was 0. Any ideas on what the problem may be?
Hi Doug While I’m not a trained small engine mechanic, I can definitely offer my perspective. You’re right that your clutch’s gap is off. From what I understand, the average gap is meant to be about half that wide (.016 inches). I’m having a hard time finding the specification from Cub Cadet, but I’ve been reading that other 1515 owners use a gap of 0.012”. Your test results do seem to indicate that the PTO switch still works, and if the pulley can spin, I would assume engagement is the problem here. Try and adjust/shim your gap first. It seems like that should be your issue since you’ve had good readings from the electrical system. If that doesn’t help the problem, make sure you’ve checked your brake switch and safety shut-down circuit too. If these are out of whack it could prevent your PTO switch from doing its job. If all else fails, you might want to consider going for a new PTO and belts. Hope this helps! Tom.
Hi. we have a Husquvarna zero turn CZ4817. Every time we try to engage the blades it rips through my wires on my clutch. I can’t find any information on this and how to fix? Some talk of a anti-rotation bracket but again I can’t find any information on that either? Please help.
Hi Donita, There is a part you need called a clutch tie-down. If you search on the internet for the following – Husqvarna CZ4817 CLUTCH TIE DOWN – you’ll find what you need. It’s a small 15-25 bracket that bolts to the underside of where the engine sits. It slots between a cut-out on the clutch and stops it from spinning. If someone changed the clutch for you, they could have forgotten to put it back on. If the wires were just ripped out, then it probably fell off. If you search on the internet, you’ll find some images that will show you exactly where it goes. I hope you find the part you’re looking for. Thanks, Tom.
I have a 1996 Toro Pro-line model # 30182-690727. While mowing the blades disengaged. Everything was within specification, so I suspected the delay module. I bypassed it and kept the relay for power transfer. I connected the wiring to a 12-volt battery to prove the wiring and everything worked. The system works directly from the alternator which puts out 28 volts ac. The regulator puts out varying voltage between 7.2 and 13 volts dc. When back probing the hot wire going to the clutch, I got 7amps and the clutch engaged. When I remove the meter it disengaged. I cleaned all my grounds and bought a new regulator for the hell of it. It still does not work. Any ideas? I’m stumped.
Hi Matthew, Well, it seems you know your way around electrical systems better than I do. But I did come across a case where the inside of a clutch was shorted out but would still engage. The problem is that it was burning out switches. Now, I’m not sure if this would have anything to do with your case, but it could be something similar. Checking the resistance through the clutch with a multimeter might shed some light on the matter. Also, I’ve heard of starter solenoids causing strange issues with clutches engaging and erratically disengaging. I hope you get things sorted out. Cheers, Tom.
The PTO clutch will stop the engine. The Engine stops when the PTO clutch is in “ON” position. Electrical switch under clutch? What should I look at? I have a Stiga Villa mower.
Hi Aleks, First, you want to make sure that the clutch can spin when the mower is switched off. If it’s seized, then it could trigger the engine to shut down. Then, take a look at the safety switches to make sure that they are connected and working. Your mower could have a safety switch that requires you to have your foot on the brake to engage the PTO. If this is malfunctioning, then it will kill the engine. Next, I would want to check the clutch itself. It could have shorted out and caused the engine to cut out when you tried to engage the PTO. You can test for the resistance through the clutch using a multimeter. At the same time, you can check the switch with the meter. By the sound of it, the switch seems to be working. I hope this gives you some idea of where to look. Good luck! Cheers, Tom.
MY SIMPLICITY CORONET 1694288 had a bad solenoid and I replaced and now starts fine. But when I release the clutch, it shuts down. What did I do wrong?
Hi George, Well, I wouldn’t say you did anything wrong. It could just be a coincidence that when the starter solenoid went bad, so did something else. Or something else caused the clutch to go bad. Here are a few items that could be worth looking into. Check the Safety Switches First, run through the mower’s safety features. I’m sure you know that micro switches around the mower will cut the engine if safety isn’t followed as per the manufacturer’s design, such as sitting in the seat when you engage the PTO switch. Next, check that the switches are working correctly and are still connected to the wiring harness. These could have been disconnected when the solenoid was being replaced. Check the Wiring Harness for Damage Next, check the wiring harness for any damage. There could be a damaged cable causing a short and resulting in the mower cutting out once you engage the clutch. Once you’re confident that these are working correctly, move on to the clutch. Checking the Clutch First, set the ignition to ON (not start) with the mower’s engine off and engage the clutch. So you should hear the clutch click on and off as you move the switch. If it engages, then the switch should be ok. Next, you want to check the clutch. I’m not sure if you are handy with a multimeter, but if you are, you could test the resistance through the clutch. If the clutch is shorted out internally, it could be drawing too many amps from the battery. You can test the switch to see how many amps run through the circuit or how many ohms pass through the clutch. If the clutch is burned out, it could be drawing too much power and killing the engine. A clutch can still operate even if it is burned out electrically. I hope this information can point you in the right direction. Tom.
I have a Craftsman zero turn mower about 10 years old. Model 247.25001 42″ deck. The last year or two I’ve been having an intermittent problem with my PTO switch. I start the mower, turn on the switch and the blades engage fine. After about 30 minutes or so, sometimes longer (takes me about an hour or so to mow the lawn) I may stop the mower and blades to get off and clear the deck off, or move something (its setup for mulching). I’ll get back on the mower, engage the switch and nothing happens. However, if I leave the switch in the on position in about 3 – 5 minutes the blades will start up again. I changed the switch and it was a little better, but still doing the same thing. I had read something about overheating of the PTO switch and I see where they now sell 10 amp switches versus the 5 amp that came with the machine. Any ideas what this could be?
Hi Robert, It sounds like there could be an issue with the actual PTO clutch. Inside the clutch, there is an electromagnet that has windings. As these windings degrade, they can cause a short, which in turn changes the resistance through the PTO. What can happen is the PTO switch can overheat and damage the switch. Basically, the change in resistance can cause an increased pull of amps and melt the switch. So, the fact that you changed the switch from a 5 amp to a 10 amp probably masked the issue for a while. I recommend disconnecting the electrical connector from the PTO and testing it with a multimeter. If you set your multimeter to ohms and connect the two probes to the clutch, you will be able to check the resistance. Typically a PTO clutch will have a resistance between 2-4ohm. If your clutch is outside of this range, then this is likely the cause of the problem. You should be able to find the specific resistance for your PTO in your manual. I hope this gives you an idea of what to check. Thanks for the question. Tom.
Hi Tom, I have a Scag walk behind. There is a high pitched noise when I disengage the blades. Also I noticed when I spin the blades the clutch moves back and forth. Any thoughts? Are these issues related? Thanks!
Hi Travis, The clutch should be locked in place with a small metal bar/bracket. So the clutch should only move a tiny amount between the bracket. Now inside the clutch, there are a few bearings that allow the clutch to spin. I’m thinking that the bearings could be worn and are causing the noise, or the clutch isn’t properly installed, and it could have come loose. I would take a closer listen to see where the noise is actually coming from. It could be coming from the clutch, or it could be belt noise as the belt slips when the blades are disengaged. First, I recommend that you inspect the clutch to make sure the bearings are ok and that the clutch is correctly installed. Then I would take a look at the belt and pulley system. If you are only having a problem when the blades engage/disengage, then it must have something to do with the driveshaft, clutch, belt, pulleys/spindles, or the deck. I hope this gives you a few ideas. Tom.
Lawn Mower Sputtering? Here’s How to Fix It
Lawnmower maintenance is a crucial part of keeping your mower running properly. Regular maintenance promotes the overall health of your lawnmower and its ability to properly operate. But even with regular maintenance, there may be times when you experience issues with your mower. One common problem among lawnmowers is sputtering. Lawn mower sputtering is generally an inexpensive and easy fix that can be done on your own as part of your regular maintenance.
In this article I’ll share what causes a sputtering lawn mower, and what you can do to fix this common problem.
About Lawn Mower Engines
The engine of your mower relies on the right combination of fuel, air, and a spark (for combustion). Your mower needs each of these to prevent the mower from sputtering and eventually dying.
For the most part, many of the issues that cause a sputtering mower can be fixed by the weekend warrior.
However, there are times when it is best to use a professional for the job.
You’ll want to check a few items to determine what’s causing your mower to sputter, and that will determine if it’s a DIY fix, or you need to call in a professional.
Let’s look at some reasons why your lawnmower may be sputtering and how you should address each of these issues.
Identifying the Cause of a Sputtering Lawn Mower
Below are some of the more common reasons for sputtering lawnmowers and how they can be resolved.
Old Fuel or the Wrong Fuel
The gas you get at the local gas station will generally contain about 10% ethanol. It’s cheaper than pure gasoline, and works fine for cars, but I don’t use it in my mower because it’s low quality.
Ethanol burns quickly and can potentially melt plastic parts, leading to sputtering in your mower. And if you use ethanol blended gas, only buy a little at a time.
If it sits in your garage for more than a couple of months it will go bad and can lead to a sputtering mower.
You can use a fuel stabilizer to extend the life of the gasoline, but I recommend using an ethanol-free gas. It’ll burn cleaner and help your mower to start on the first pull and roar like a tiger.
I use 4-cycle Tru-Fuel in my Honda mower, and love it. It’s pricey, but I highly recommend you try it. You can buy it locally at most box stores, or you can order it online (Amazon link).
Clogged or Dirty Air Filters
Dirty air filters are one of the most common reasons lawn mowers sputter.
Dirt can be present in the apertures that lead from the carburetor and the fuel filter and interrupt the flow of fuel supply to the combustion chamber.
You want to be sure to clean or replace dirty air filters.
Paper air filters will need to be replaced. But you can generally clean foam air filters with a drop of liquid dish soap and warm water.
After cleaning the air filter, squeeze dry and air dry.
My Honda mower uses a paper air filter which I replace every year as part of my spring mower tune-up.
During the summer, I remove it and blow the dust and debris off before each mow.
Dirty Fuel Filters
Any filter will get dirty with time, and just like the air filters, fuel filters in a lawn mower need to be clean.
Replace yours if they’re dirty.
Clogged fuel filters prevent the flow of gasoline to the engine which can lead to a lack of fuel needed for proper functioning.
This imbalance of air and fuel in your engine can cause your mower to sputter and run rough.
A Bad Gas Cap
Misfires can occur with an improperly vented gas cap on your mower.
If your gas cap has improper venting, too much air can be allowed to enter the gas tank (or too little). This can cause a vapor lock.
It’s an easy fix – just replace the cap if it is damaged or bent or if you see that the vent hole is restricted.
That Carburetor is FILTHY
Gunky deposits can occur in the apertures and carburetor.
This buildup is from the sticky by-products of hydrocarbon and combustion.
Using a carburetor cleaner spray (this one on Amazon is what I use and swear by) on a regular basis can loosen dirt deposits and keep your mower’s apertures and hoses clean.
I give my carb a shot every time I clean my air filter before I mow.
Water in the Fuel Tank or Fuel Line
Water prevents the mower cylinder from properly igniting. Remove the cap and check the gas tank for evidence of water (if you see the liquid separating or looking like two different colors).
If there is water in your tank, siphon or drain it, then add new gas.
After old gas in the line works its way through the mower’s engine it should stop sputtering and run like new again.
Check the Spark Plug
Worn or damaged spark plugs make the engine difficult to start. If the plug is damaged, worn, or deteriorating you should replace the plug.
HONDA LAWN MOWER REPAIR : Honda HRC 216 K3 Blade Clutch Rebuild Parts 1,2, And 3
If the tip is fouled or dirty, just clean it with a wire brush and reset to the mowers manufacture’s settings.
You can also look into purchasing another brand of spark plug to see if the mower runs better with a different brand. The plug that comes from the factory with some mowers doesn’t work great on some lawn mower brands.
The spark plug is generally not the first thing I’ll check for a sputtering mower. But a dirty or damaged plug can sometimes be the cause.
Your spark plug is an easy item to replace, and costs about 8 at your local hardware store.
I replace my plug every other year as part of my annual maintenance routine. If it has been more than two years since you’ve bought a new plug, I recommend replacing it as part of your tune-up to fix your sputtering lawn mower.
Your Carburetor Has Issues
Some carb cleaning spray will help if your carburetor is simply dirty, but sometimes there are other issues that can cause lawn mower sputtering.
The carburetor affects how well the mower runs. The wrong blend of air and fuel can cause the carburetor to run rough.
The carburetor must have the right amount of air and fuel to run correctly, and while the average weekend warrior can probably find and remove his mower’s carb, due to its complexity, the carburetor can be tricky to clean or repair.
If you’ve tried everything else on this list, it’s likely a carburetor issue and your mower may require professional service.
A professional can determine the repairs, cleaning, and replacements needed. They’ll then get the carburetor working properly.
First, check to see if your mower is covered by a warranty of any kind. If it’s not, find a local small engine repair guy (or gal), and have your mower serviced.
It’ll be cheaper than you expect.
A Dirty Mower Deck
Caked grass on the mowing deck can cause the mower to sputter.
If you have tall or wet grass you may have noticed that your mower started sputtering as you mowed your lawn.
Check the underside of the mower for excess grass caked on.
Use a wrench to remove the spark plug to prevent the mower from turning on while you work. Then scrape the excess grass using a scraping tool such as a paint scraper.
You May Also Enjoy:
This entry was posted in Lawn Mowers and tagged Lawn Equipment, Mower Problems. Bookmark the permalink.
by Sarah The Lawn Chick
Sarah’s blog, Lawn Chick, is read by over 2 million homeowners each year and she is regularly cited as an expert source of lawn care knowledge by major publications. Her goal is to meet you where you are, and help you achieve a yard you’ll be proud of. Ready to take the next step toward improving your lawn? Grab her free lawn care cheat-sheet: What to Do When. Take the Guesswork Out of Lawn Care, or upgrade your garage by browsing her favorite DIY lawn care products.
thoughts on “ Lawn Mower Sputtering? Here’s How to Fix It ”
I am a 62 year old female just having to learn how to care for my own mowers, riding push. Your article was more informative than the many others I’ve read! Thought it was sputtering due to the spark plug but now I’m sure it’s the carburator. FYI, when my husband was the main mower man both mowers spent more time in the shop than on the lawn and the cost of repairs would have bought me a brand new one. If it didn’t start immediately off it went to the shop. It never cost less than 100, usually more plus 60 for a 1 mile pick up. I really think the repair man had my husband pegged for a sucker and that may be accurate. That’s the main reason I decided to care for them myself. Since I became the main mower lady and actually read articles like yours it’s smooth riding! Lol Thank you so much for your help.
Thanks, Teresa! Your article made my day – I’m so glad you found this helpful and are tackling these projects yourself!
My Lawn tractor Craftsman R1500 30″ deck, Mod.#247.29900 by MTD, sputters (like running out off gas) after 20-25 minutes of operation and eventually dying. After cooling off for 30 minutes or so, it starts and run again. It is frustrating! Can you please help my with my problem? I installed new fuel filter, put new gas. (I run out gas as season changes). What else can I check to make it work? Thank you in advance Mick T.
Hey, Mick – It sounds like you may have a clogged gas cap vent. The gas cap on most lawn tractors has a small hole in it which allows air to get into the tank. This is important because as your mower burns fuel, that empty space in the tank needs to be replaced with air for the correct mixture of fuel in the engine. If air can’t enter the tank as your mower burns the fuel backward pressure is created and your engine will struggle to get enough gas, which is why you may hear your engine surging or sputtering the same way it would if it was running out of fuel. Typically when I hear that the mower works well at first, then this issue happens after 20 minutes or so, this is the culprit, because that’s when you’ve used enough of the fuel for the pressure imbalance to become an issue. A good way to trouble-shoot and determine if this is definitely the issue is to run the mower, and when this happens and your mower won’t start, open up the gas cap and then put it back on. This will relieve the pressure, allow air in the tank, and get things back in balance. If the mower starts up right afterward and runs fine, you’ve identified the problem. Clearing the vent is easy – just find something small enough to slide through the vent hole and clear out any dirt or debris that’s in there, and you’re good to go. If it’s cold where you are, you may need to bring the cap inside to warm it up first as the solids in there may be frozen, making them tougher to remove. Hope this solves your problem!
Great help. My lawnmower was starting and sputtering and dying in a couple of seconds. Tried NEW GAS (the one in the tank was a year or more old) and it WORKED.