A disc plough for a power tiller with his hands

Blueprints and Diagrams for your own hands

Based on the experience of people who made a plow for power tillers with their own hands, and drawings, you need to make a plow ploughshare removable, to sharpen it before plowing.

The best material for making the cutting part of the plow for power tillers is 9XS alloy steel, used for circular saw blades.

Steel 45 is also suitable, which is brought to hardness HRC 50-55 by hardening. If you have only ordinary steel, such as carbon steel St.5 which are not heat-treated, they can also be adapted to cutting a layer of ground by chipping off the cutting edge of the cold the anvil and then sharpening it.

The mouldboard for the motor-block plough

How to manufacture the moldboard working surface should be given a cylindrical shape. If you have a plate-bending rollers, it is not difficult to give the desired shape to the workpiece.

To achieve this, the moldboard blank, cut by gas or electric welding (or scissors) of steel sheet thickness of 3-4 mm, fed into the rollers at an angle of 20 °-23 °, sheared and then hammer give the required shape to the template.

Drawing of the plough mouldboard made of 3 mm steel sheet

The blank for the blade can be a steel tube with a diameter of 550-600 mm and a wall thickness of 4-5 mm. At first the moldboard template is made of thick cardboard, then the template is attached to the pipe so that the lower form of the moldboard template makes with a cylindrical pipe forming an angle of 20-23 °.

The outline of the mouldboard is drawn with chalk, then it is cut out by gas welding and machined with emery cloth. If necessary, the shape of the moldboard is adjusted by the hammer on the available template.

Shape of plough mouldboard made of pipe with diameter of 550-600 mm and with wall thickness of 4-5 mm

The most labor-intensive way to get the moldboard is to place its blank in the furnace for heating (or heating it in another way). Then the workpiece is bent on a matrix, as which you can take the moldboard from another plow.

Material of plough body is steel sheet St.3-Ct.10 with a thickness of 3 mm.

  • and. a ploughshare made of alloy steel;
  • b. Side board of plough stand, St3;
  • c. spacer plate, St3;
  • d. plate of plough base, St3;
  • e. field board, angle 30×30 mm;
  • f. stand, 42 mm diameter pipe

It is recommended first to make thick cardboard and glue them together using proper angles. So, values of angle alpha on different parts of plough body will make from 25° to 130°, values of angle gamma. from 42° to 50°. If the homemade model of the cardboard plough satisfied you on all parameters, feel free to start working with the metal.

When the steel parts are done, in order to assemble the body of the plough you will need auxiliary sheet with thickness of 2-3 mm and dimensions of 500×500 mm. Angle γ0 is marked on the supplementary sheet with 40 mm indent from the edges.

Assembling the plow

The coulter is mounted with wedges with an angle of α0=25° on the booster plate and is spot-welded on both sides to the plate.

Vertically stab side plate is mounted to the coulter so that its edge overlaps the edge of the coulter by 5-8 mm, the side plate must be 6-10 mm higher than the coulter blade (that means higher than the auxiliary sheet) in order not to prevent the coulter from undercutting the ground. The brackets are also lightly welded to the share and auxiliary sheet.

Then the mouldboard is placed as close to the coulter as possible and without a gap, so that their surfaces are one piece. The angle between the upper edge of the blade and the blade is (γmax. γ0) = 6-8°.

Ploughshare mounting

If it is found that the angles and/or surfaces do not match, the moldboard is reworked with a hammer. After fitting the mouldboard to the ploughshare, it is welded to both the ploughshare and the side plate from behind. Then the side plate is welded to the spreader bar and the base plate, and the thrust brackets for the share are welded to the latter.

The plough is examined again and capitally welded, with the auxiliary sheet used to assemble the plough separated from its body with a chisel or “angle grinder” with a cutting disk. Thrust corners of the share are capitally welded to the base plate. After that all welds are cleaned off, and the surfaces of the mouldboard and share are smoothed with a sandpaper.

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A turning plough for a power tiller, homemade

A turning plough is a universal plough, used on power tillers, it has a manual turning mechanism on a standard single hitch. As you know, when tilling the ground with a regular plough the body turns to one side with the share in one pass. In order for the ground of the next row to turn in the same direction you have to go back to the beginning of the previous row and start on the same side of the plot.

A swivelling plough allows you to plough much quicker. at the end of the row you simply turn the share to the other side after turning the power harvester and continue tilling.

Turning plow for power tiller, homemade

Turning plow. universal, used on power tillers, contains on a standard single hitch manual turning mechanism. As you know, when plowing the land with a regular plough the layer of land is turned over to one side by the share in one pass. To turn the soil in the next row to the same side one has to go back to the beginning of the previous row and start from the same side of the plot.

A reversible plow will allow you to plow much faster. at the end of the row you simply turn the plough to the other side after turning your power harvester and continue tillage.

Plow dimensions for a power tiller

The swiveling plough features three structural planes: the lower horizontal plane of the skid, the lateral vertical plane of the skid, and the front mouldboard plane. If after removing ploughshare and mouldboard put plough on horizontal table placed against the wall and press its lateral surface against the vertical wall, then table surface will be aligned with lower horizontal plane of skid, and vertical wall with lateral vertical plane of skid.

  • The first condition for a good plough is to locate the lower cutting edge of the installed ploughshare 10-20 mm below the lower horizontal plane of the skid.
  • The second condition for a good plough is that the side cutting edge of the fitted plough should be in a straight line with the side cutting edge of the mouldboard, both of which should protrude 10mm beyond the lateral and vertical plane of the skid.
  • The third condition for a good plough is that the front working surface of the share and the mouldboard must be in the same plane and without a gap. They should be free of projecting fasteners, but polished and shiny like a mirror.

After completing work on the plow, it is recommended that the polished surfaces be cleaned of soil, drizzled with machine oil or lubricated with Lithol-24 and rubbed with a rag. It will allow to protect polished surfaces from corrosion.

The fourth condition of a good plough is a flat back side of a ploughshare, which makes an angle of 15-20 degrees, equal to the back angle of a mounted ploughshare, with a flat surface of the plough mounting.

disc, plough, power, tiller, hands

lateral cutting edges of ploughshare and mouldboard also should have backward angles of 1020 degrees with lateral plane of furrow, and lateral cutting edge of mouldboard can be rounded.

Plough for power tiller with your own hands: drawings, dimensions, 21 manufacturing photos

Made a homemade reversible universal plow ПЦ1-18 for my power tiller, with my own hands.

disc, plough, power, tiller, hands

I’ve been wanting a reversible plow for my power tiller for a long time, so I don’t have to chisel away furrows or plow in circles.

It was decided to make a mouldboard and a ploughshare from an unwanted gas cylinder. Filled the cylinder to full with water and sawed it.

Took the stand of the CULTIVATOR’S Paw of the KPS-4 foot

How to make a plough on a single axle tractor with your own hands?

Before you start making a plow with your own hands, you will need to carefully study the drawings. They should tell you how to attach the parts of the structure to each other. The further procedure is as follows:

  • First make a ploughshare. To do this, take steel, at least 5 mm thick, and give it the desired shape. Knock out the cutting part of the steel billet on the anvil, and then sharpen. This is done exactly the same way as in the case of sharpening a manual grass scythe;
  • Next, it will be necessary to make a self-made mouldboard. This is best done with a steel pipe, 50 cm in diameter and wall thickness of no more than 5 mm. Cut out the piece for the future mouldboard with a cutter. To shape the product, hammer it on an anvil and grind it on a sharpening machine;
  • The next step is to assemble the parts of the plow into one structure. Take a sheet of steel with dimensions of 50×50 cm and a thickness of 3 mm. Make a 4-centimeter indent on the edges of the sheet and align it so that you end up with a zero angle;
  • Next, with the help of wedges, attach the ploughshare to the sheet and make a two-sided spot weld, observing an angle of 25°;
  • Join the blade and the blade as tightly as possible. There should be an angle of 8° between the top of the mouldboard and the coulter blade;

Then measure all angles accurately again. Only after you’ve made sure the connections are correct can you finally weld the plough legs together. Clean off any existing welds as soon as the structure is completely cooled down.

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Reverse plow for power tiller. making procedure

As in the first case, to make a reversible plough, you need to study the scheme. Otherwise even the slightest inaccuracy will result in low efficiency of the finished attachment. To make a Zykov plow, proceed in this order:

  • Use a sheet of steel, about 5 mm thick, to make a ploughshare. Cut out the piece, heat it with a gas torch and bend it as shown in the picture. The blade must be detachable. The cutting part of the part is hammered on the anvil and sharpened on a special machine;
  • Next, make the mouldboard. It can be made from a 5mm wall thickness pipe with a diameter of 50cm. According to the template, cut out the blade blank with a gas burner, and then grind the product with an angle grinder;
  • After that make a plough body from 3mm thick sheet steel and assemble the construction by welding;
  • Deburr the welding seams with a file and abrade with emery paper.

The result is a universal plough for a single-axle tractor, with which you can cultivate not only dry but also wet soil.

Reverse plow for power tiller. how to make it

As in the first case, to make a rotary plow, you need to study the design scheme. Otherwise, even the slightest inaccuracy will lead to low efficiency of the finished attachment. To make a Zykov plow, proceed in this order:

  • To make the ploughshare use sheet steel, about 5 mm thick. Cut out a blank from it, heat it with a gas burner, and bend it as shown in the picture. The blade must be removable. The cutting part of the part is beaten off on an anvil and sharpened on a special machine;
  • Next, make the mouldboard. It can be made from a pipe with wall thickness of 5 mm and a diameter of 50 cm. According to the template, cut the blade blank with a gas burner, then grind the product with an angle grinder;
  • After that make plough body from steel sheet of 3 mm thickness and assemble a construction using welding;
  • Deburr the weld seams with a file and sandpaper.

As a result, you get a universal plow on a single-axle tractor, with which you can work not only dry but also wet soil.

How to make a disc plough on a single axle tractor?

The disc plow-tiller. this is a very useful device that allows you to prepare even furrows for planting potatoes and other tuber crops. Before you start making such a plough, study the blueprints. They will help you control the assembly process and prevent mistakes. The procedure for making a disc plow for a single-axle tractor is as follows:

  • The base of the plow is the support angle. For its manufacture, use an equilateral angle, the shelves of which in the cold state should converge at an angle of 70 °;
  • Weld a sock to the angle. After that, weld the heel through the stop bar;
  • Fix the tine on the supporting bracket with the loops. Set the appropriate distance between the square and the flaps so that they do not touch each other when the flaps are opened;
  • Swivel mechanism is welded to the stop angle so that the bearing part of the mechanism is perpendicular to the angle.

Finally, adjust the plough’s jaws. To do this, fix each of them in a vice and adjust so that in the end they are bent in the opposite direction from each other.

Disk plow: algorithm of actions

The disc plow-tiller is used for preparation of even furrows for planting vegetables. Using the drawings, you can control the course of assembly and avoid defects.

The disc plow is made following the diagram described:

  • Support bracket as a base. It is made from an angle with equal sides, its shelves after cooling should converge at an angle of 700;
  • The toe is welded to an angle. The heel is welded to the thrust bar;
  • The flaps are fastened to the support angle with hinges. When unfolded, the sides of the cheeks must not touch each other;
  • The swivel mechanism is welded to the stop angle at right angles.

The plow cheeks need to be adjusted at the end. They are fixed in a vise and adjusted until they are pointing in different directions.

Rotary plough: the algorithm

Rotary plow for a motor-block with a support wheel is considered a canopy of a complex type due to its design. Work on it with great care, so that errors do not negatively affect the quality of cultivation.

Rotary plow is made according to a certain algorithm:

  • Mill. working part. To manufacture it is necessary to prepare a steel tube and metal plates. The latter are welded to the tube for the subsequent grinding of the soil and throwing it aside;
  • Making the frame for the gear. It comes in any shape, the main nuance. the frame must protect the gearbox from moisture, debris, external damage;
  • You will have to buy a gearbox. It is connected to the gearbox of the machine;
  • The rotary plow is quite large, so you need to install the wheels. Old motorcycle wheels will do just fine.
disc, plough, power, tiller, hands

This design will last a long time. It is important to change the oil that lubricates the gearbox in time to prevent breakdowns.

A plow to a motor-block with your own hands from a horse-drawn plow

An equally viable idea is to convert an old horse-drawn plough for a single-axle tractor. A full description of the process is in the video.

A feature of all horse-drawn plows without exception is their heavy weight, created by the bulky mouldboard. If such a plow without remodeling to install on a single-axle tractor, the land will not recline.

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This is a big plus because the horse plow plow will not undergo any changes.

To make a plough for a single axle tractor from a horse plough, you will need:

  • make a mouldboard yourself, which is cut out from a pre-drawn drawing from a steel billet (3 cm thick). For accuracy it is desirable to make a cardboard template;
  • After cutting, the stainless moldboard is given a special shape;
  • remove the horse’s mouldboard and install a self-made one instead;
  • Remove the handles, which were on the vertical axis;
  • Instead, weld metal mounts through which the plow will be hinged to the motoblock.
  • if during field testing it turns out that the remade horse plow does not throw back well, you should bend the ploughshare slightly, so it could tear into the soil harder.

Mounting the plough to a single axle tractor: step-by-step steps

Before you hitch the plow to the power tiller and start setting it up, the pulling unit itself must go through a number of preparatory procedures. They boil down to:

  • 3 The machine must therefore only be repaired by a service technician who has been specially trained in how to transport it to the place where it will be used;
  • dismantle the wheel track, which is replaced by the tines. Otherwise, the equipment will start to slip and can get stuck.

After these requirements have been met, the plough can begin to be installed.

  • Fasten the plow to the hitch of the motoblock with nuts, which will allow you to set its working parameters independently in the future;
  • prepare two fastening pins with which to attach the hitch and plow to the clevis.

This concludes the plow installation task and you can proceed to the next.

Assembling construction

When all the metal parts of the plow for the “Neva” motoblock are created, for the final assembly you will need a sheet of metal 50×50 cm in size and an electric welder. To the metal plate, carefully observe the angles and lightly weld the elements of the future plough. side shield and ploughshare to which to attach the mouldboard. If any discrepancies are found, the mouldboard should be adjusted to the necessary conditions with a hammer and welded to the rear part of the share.

Plough drawing photo

Photo drawing of the plow No

Plough drawing photo

The photo drawing of the plow

Photo plow drawing Photo plow drawing

Photo drawing of a plow

To inspect the whole construction, and if no problems are noticed, you can carry out the overhaul welding. The sheet metal on which the plow was assembled is detached from the structure by means of an “angle grinder” or a hammer and chisel. Next, you need to carefully clean welds and grind with sandpaper ploughshare and mouldboard. After the structure is assembled and practically ready for use, it should be painted, especially the welded joints. This will not only give the plough an aesthetic appearance, but also protect the metal from corrosion, and hence significantly prolong the life of the plough.

Although it’s not an easy task, it is quite doable and within the power of any person with minimal experience with ploughing tools, to independently make a quality plough for the motor-block “Neva. For everything to succeed, you should adhere to the instructions and drawings, as well as conduct a competent adjustment of the entire design. Making a plow yourself is not only quite interesting, but also economical, since most of the material can be found at your farm by any craftsman.

Setting up the plough before you start ploughing

When starting plowing, adjust the position of the plow to the ground correctly. This procedure is done in several steps: before ploughing and during ploughing of the first track.

We suggest you watch the video, which explains in detail how to make the adjustment of the plow to the power tiller Oka:

Algorithm of actions when setting up a plow under a single axle tractor Oka:

  • Prepare necessary hand tools (wrench), single axle tractor, hitch and plow.
  • Change the pneumatic wheels for the tines.
  • Attach the hitch to the power tiller by means of bolted connections.
  • hitch the plough to the hitch by aligning the holes on the plough leg with the holes on the hitch, secure plough position with cotter pins.

Oka single axle tractor with plough

It’s not enough to put the plough in place. it must also be adjusted properly:

  • Set the plowing depth, which is 15-18 cm for Oka power tillers.
  • Let’s go on to the adjustment of the angle of attack, which directly affects the depth of plowing into the soil. Retighten the bolt on the hitch, which is responsible for the height of plough’s heel (the higher the heel, the deeper the plough is). The optimal size. 3-5 cm from the heel to the ground.
  • Proceed to test ploughing. During the first pass such parameters are checked as: the depth of the sliced furrow, the smooth running of the Oka motoblock with load.
  • If during the first pass you find any flaws. readjust the system.